I watched all 4 parts and enjoyed the heck out of these teachings. I do some woodwork so i have all the equipment. I was just afraid I might ruin my bow. But now I'm going for it. Thanks for all your hard work.
It may not be a silk purse but its no longer a sows ear. My Black Hunter will be just dandy when I am finished reworking it. Great series and much appreciate the techniques and advice.
You have my full respect for doing this, Shane. You go out of your way to show people how to quite easily improve a product that is NOT YOURS with tools available to everyone. You could have just tested the BH and told people it is a cheap and bad bow, thus trying to keep buyers from potentially getting one over one of yours but decided against that. In my opinion, this alone says all you need to know about a business and its owner. All the best to you and Carissa! If I hadn't left trad recurves for Korean bows I'd order one of your very beautiful ones - the designs are just great. Greetings from Germany :)
I paint cars for a living and I agree with the tack cloths being too tacky and leaving a residue. I exclusively only use micro fibers now to tack. They work wonderfully in addition I use a antistat gun. However most people don’t have that. To replace that step, a quick denatured alcohol wipe down will also kill any static! I love this series on a budget bow! Great craftsmanship here!
A comment and a question. On sanding the side limb I would recommend a 12 inch sanding block. A piece of flattened hardwood with double back taped on sandpaper will keep lines straight or straighten a wavy line. Basically, what you get with the platen of your belt sander. Can you tell me where you get the knife edge rubber sanding blocks you use? They look way handy. I realize I may need to grind them to shape but I need the basic block to start with. Keep up the excellent video’s I am a hobbyist bow building and these video’s really fill in some spots for me.
Thanks for watching! You can't use straight sanding blocks like that on bows because they leave sanding lines that have to be fixed with hand sandpaper. Rubber is the only way to go. Here's the sanding blocks I use. Power-Tec 91382 Tear-Drop Sander a.co/d/3urJ6pi
I have several custom Tradbows, having a lifelong addiction! I have a Blackhunter longbow with #40 and #45 limbs. I have a 27.5" draw so I can say it is every bit as smooth as my high end customs. I have had zero regrets but is it as good as a custom? NO! Great video series. New sub. Always thumbs up from the 641.
Lipstick on a pig. I like pigs 👍 I had to reshape the radius of the arrow shelf to the sight window on my BH longbow. Thanks for showing us how to do it.
I raised or extended my shelf with a quarter piece of leather this makes the black hunter center shot. I have a 48 lb @ 29 inch with a 350 spine black eagle outlaw arrows full length 200 gr up front or arrow cut 31.25 inches with 250 grains up front. Yes the bow is fast and stacks a bit but you sure get a clean realease on a bow that stacks!!!
You can use a tack cloth for the dust removal and between sanding and 2nd/3rd coats. What was that custom bow hangin there with the antler tips and leather grip, looked nice...
That was a Swift longcurve two piece. It wasn't leather actually. What you're seeing is the glass and carbon sleeve on the two piece system. As far as tack cloths go they don't work nearly as well as blowing the dust off. The wax on tack cloths will leave a small amount of residue on the workpiece which ends up trapping a little bit of dust. Blowing it off using the method I explained removes all the dust and leaves no residue.
I'd like to see some numbers to verify that the bow stacks and at what draw length does it begin and where does it get worse. I only draw 27" so I don't have any issues. I would like to be honest with people when discussing this bow though since I get a lot of questions from folks wanting to get started in archery.
I'm just sitting over here with my 26.25 inch draw length smiling.......if there's 2 advantages to having a Hobbits draw length it's my bows never stack and I get crazy FOC for free 😁. Nice job. I've got the black hunter with both the longbow limbs and the recurve limbs.
I have a 24.5--25 inch draw going to the cartilage part just before my earhole where my current anchor for draw on bows that are not long draw bows like a few models of older 1950--1970's fiberglass models made more for a 30+ inch draw, the English/Welsh longbow War-bows, or some of the Japanese Kyudo/Yumi bows that all need longer 30 inch draws. The hard part was finding a bow at 24 inch draw that was 45 pounds for hunting and for my Left eye dominance as most bows for left hand stopped at 50 pounds at 28 inches so I would need a 55--60 pound bow for my draw and those bows that had the correct poundage were for right eye dominate, that or use a universal no shelf draw on the bow, and get a second archery.
Depends on what you’re going for. If you’re wanting it to be a clean look and hard to get off or scratch, then you would do it before the clear. If you’re going for a battle worn look or possibly wanting to remove/change the color later, then after would be best.
Can I send in my black hunter to you and have you do all this to mine? 😂😂 I did do the center cut out of mine and it helped a lot. Or can you make limbs for the black hunter?
Sure I can of either those things, but its hardly worth it because it'd cost you $200-$300. That's the reason we made these videos so guys could fix their own black hunters. That being said, we'd do it for you
I keep my old Damon Howatt longbow at 6-1/4" which gives it optimum speed while still preventing the tips of my 4" feathers from bumping into the riser. Are those black hunters even worth doing anything with?
It’s a pretty good “bang for your buck” bow. The issue is the quality control on them being mass produced. It’s not uncommon for them to miss weight, be out of tiller, or have limb twist, so that’s why we put out this series.
@@greatplainsbow Right on! I've been building/flying since the mid 90's. Always nice to see another enjoying the hobby, sad to see how severely the numbers have declined in recent years. I just picked up a bow again after about 20 years thanks to my eldest daughter recently taking an interest in archery, she's currently shooting a Genesis compound. As for myself, I bought a "new" PSE Nighthawk that came with 30# and 45# limbs. Sadly I discovered a small crack on the rear underside of the shelf, can hardly catch a fingernail but it's there. Not trusting it I bought a SWA Spyder riser hoping the limb pockets would be the same width. Well after a little time with a file and around .010" material removed they fit like a glove. After watching your videos I'm fairly confident I can rework the Nighthawk riser and hopefully remove the crack as well as adding some much needed contour to the entire thing. If it doesn't work out I'm not really out anything as the limbs cost more than I paid for all of it. I've also got my dad's old recurves from the 70's that could use a little tlc mainly in the finish department. One is a 58" Bear Grizzly 45# with the notorious finish crazing on the limbs I'd like to refinish. The other is an unknown 69" 3 piece 32# that I can't find any info about. It's got a serial number but no name or mark. Anyway, thanks for the vids. Very interesting and I've learned a lot so far.
@@greatplainsbow how much do you charge? Is this something anyone can send you for your services. Last question any price difference with quality of the traditional bow?
@@kylegonzalez5842 Hi Kyle, a complete and total rework and refinish will run you about $200-$250 including refinishing and shipping. You can choose to do less amounts of work on the bow of course with less dollar amount. Same price for any quality of bow.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I watched all 4 parts and enjoyed the heck out of these teachings. I do some woodwork so i have all the equipment. I was just afraid I might ruin my bow. But now I'm going for it. Thanks for all your hard work.
Hey that's awesome, Frank! You got this!
It may not be a silk purse but its no longer a sows ear. My Black Hunter will be just dandy when I am finished reworking it. Great series and much appreciate the techniques and advice.
❤
You have my full respect for doing this, Shane. You go out of your way to show people how to quite easily improve a product that is NOT YOURS with tools available to everyone. You could have just tested the BH and told people it is a cheap and bad bow, thus trying to keep buyers from potentially getting one over one of yours but decided against that.
In my opinion, this alone says all you need to know about a business and its owner. All the best to you and Carissa! If I hadn't left trad recurves for Korean bows I'd order one of your very beautiful ones - the designs are just great. Greetings from Germany :)
I paint cars for a living and I agree with the tack cloths being too tacky and leaving a residue. I exclusively only use micro fibers now to tack. They work wonderfully in addition I use a antistat gun. However most people don’t have that. To replace that step, a quick denatured alcohol wipe down will also kill any static! I love this series on a budget bow! Great craftsmanship here!
A comment and a question. On sanding the side limb I would recommend a 12 inch sanding block. A piece of flattened hardwood with double back taped on sandpaper will keep lines straight or straighten a wavy line. Basically, what you get with the platen of your belt sander. Can you tell me where you get the knife edge rubber sanding blocks you use? They look way handy. I realize I may need to grind them to shape but I need the basic block to start with. Keep up the excellent video’s I am a hobbyist bow building and these video’s really fill in some spots for me.
Thanks for watching! You can't use straight sanding blocks like that on bows because they leave sanding lines that have to be fixed with hand sandpaper. Rubber is the only way to go. Here's the sanding blocks I use. Power-Tec 91382 Tear-Drop Sander a.co/d/3urJ6pi
Bow seemed a bit quieter after the retiller. Enjoyed the video series.
Great set of videos just perched one today
I have several custom Tradbows, having a lifelong addiction! I have a Blackhunter longbow with #40 and #45 limbs. I have a 27.5" draw so I can say it is every bit as smooth as my high end customs. I have had zero regrets but is it as good as a custom? NO! Great video series. New sub. Always thumbs up from the 641.
Lipstick on a pig. I like pigs 👍
I had to reshape the radius of the arrow shelf to the sight window on my BH longbow.
Thanks for showing us how to do it.
That is the minimum needed to do on this bow.
I raised or extended my shelf with a quarter piece of leather this makes the black hunter center shot. I have a 48 lb @ 29 inch with a 350 spine black eagle outlaw arrows full length 200 gr up front or arrow cut 31.25 inches with 250 grains up front. Yes the bow is fast and stacks a bit but you sure get a clean realease on a bow that stacks!!!
You can use a tack cloth for the dust removal and between sanding and 2nd/3rd coats.
What was that custom bow hangin there with the antler tips and leather grip, looked nice...
That was a Swift longcurve two piece. It wasn't leather actually. What you're seeing is the glass and carbon sleeve on the two piece system. As far as tack cloths go they don't work nearly as well as blowing the dust off. The wax on tack cloths will leave a small amount of residue on the workpiece which ends up trapping a little bit of dust. Blowing it off using the method I explained removes all the dust and leaves no residue.
@@greatplainsbow that is a really nice lookin bow. I will have to check it out. Thanks for the reply...😉
Thanks bro had ordered mk2 on 35lbs and extra 55 Lbs limbs be here soon 2 weeks more. Can we do 2 nd coat on that
@@UA-camrkit7 you mean a 2nd coat of finish?
Yes Sir
I'd like to see some numbers to verify that the bow stacks and at what draw length does it begin and where does it get worse. I only draw 27" so I don't have any issues. I would like to be honest with people when discussing this bow though since I get a lot of questions from folks wanting to get started in archery.
Yeah we should do some testing
I'm just sitting over here with my 26.25 inch draw length smiling.......if there's 2 advantages to having a Hobbits draw length it's my bows never stack and I get crazy FOC for free 😁. Nice job. I've got the black hunter with both the longbow limbs and the recurve limbs.
I have a 24.5--25 inch draw going to the cartilage part just before my earhole where my current anchor for draw on bows that are not long draw bows like a few models of older 1950--1970's fiberglass models made more for a 30+ inch draw, the English/Welsh longbow War-bows, or some of the Japanese Kyudo/Yumi bows that all need longer 30 inch draws. The hard part was finding a bow at 24 inch draw that was 45 pounds for hunting and for my Left eye dominance as most bows for left hand stopped at 50 pounds at 28 inches so I would need a 55--60 pound bow for my draw and those bows that had the correct poundage were for right eye dominate, that or use a universal no shelf draw on the bow, and get a second archery.
Did y’all do anything to upgrade the bezels?
@@samputt1837 no the bezels that come with it are good
Question on finish .. what if I wanted to spray paint the limbs like army green, would I do that before or after the clear?
Before
Depends on what you’re going for. If you’re wanting it to be a clean look and hard to get off or scratch, then you would do it before the clear. If you’re going for a battle worn look or possibly wanting to remove/change the color later, then after would be best.
Cool videos, what's the charge to get this work done?
A top to bottom complete rework on a black hunter is $250
Can I send in my black hunter to you and have you do all this to mine? 😂😂 I did do the center cut out of mine and it helped a lot. Or can you make limbs for the black hunter?
Sure I can of either those things, but its hardly worth it because it'd cost you $200-$300. That's the reason we made these videos so guys could fix their own black hunters. That being said, we'd do it for you
I have the same model and also have a 29" draw i like the speed on them
I keep my old Damon Howatt longbow at 6-1/4" which gives it optimum speed while still preventing the tips of my 4" feathers from bumping into the riser. Are those black hunters even worth doing anything with?
It’s a pretty good “bang for your buck” bow. The issue is the quality control on them being mass produced. It’s not uncommon for them to miss weight, be out of tiller, or have limb twist, so that’s why we put out this series.
I spy an E-flite Air Tractor hanging in the other room around the 5:12 mark. Do you fly or is it someone else in the shop?
Yep I fly RC. Great fun!
@@greatplainsbow Right on! I've been building/flying since the mid 90's. Always nice to see another enjoying the hobby, sad to see how severely the numbers have declined in recent years.
I just picked up a bow again after about 20 years thanks to my eldest daughter recently taking an interest in archery, she's currently shooting a Genesis compound. As for myself, I bought a "new" PSE Nighthawk that came with 30# and 45# limbs. Sadly I discovered a small crack on the rear underside of the shelf, can hardly catch a fingernail but it's there. Not trusting it I bought a SWA Spyder riser hoping the limb pockets would be the same width. Well after a little time with a file and around .010" material removed they fit like a glove.
After watching your videos I'm fairly confident I can rework the Nighthawk riser and hopefully remove the crack as well as adding some much needed contour to the entire thing. If it doesn't work out I'm not really out anything as the limbs cost more than I paid for all of it.
I've also got my dad's old recurves from the 70's that could use a little tlc mainly in the finish department. One is a 58" Bear Grizzly 45# with the notorious finish crazing on the limbs I'd like to refinish. The other is an unknown 69" 3 piece 32# that I can't find any info about. It's got a serial number but no name or mark.
Anyway, thanks for the vids. Very interesting and I've learned a lot so far.
Not sure if this is true for your bow... But I'm only measuring 53# at 30"on mine with the 50# limb set.
If it had flaking or had streaking of thick spots, down to bare wood.
8 1/4 seems pretty high. 7- 7 1/2 brace. See how it stacks now
Stacking has everything to do with bow limb length and design and very little to do with brace height
How much will you sell it for
That one was sold months ago actually
I put my brace height to 7inch = less stacking.... i hope
whats with the changes in the voice? is it the audio?
Lingering affects of puberty
@@greatplainsbow 😹
"Very Stacky" LOL
I'm probably going to send mine to you for a rework. I love the bow... But I know it can be better.
Sounds good
@@greatplainsbow how much do you charge? Is this something anyone can send you for your services. Last question any price difference with quality of the traditional bow?
@@kylegonzalez5842 Hi Kyle, a complete and total rework and refinish will run you about $200-$250 including refinishing and shipping. You can choose to do less amounts of work on the bow of course with less dollar amount. Same price for any quality of bow.