Pioneer AVH-3400NEX Apple CarPlay in 1995 Ford F-350
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- Опубліковано 22 сер 2024
- In this video I share with you my experience installing a Pioneer AVH-3400NEX radio in my 1995 Ford F-350 7.3L Diesel pickup truck. This is a great radio, and the easiest way to get Apple CarPlay and Android Auto into these older trucks. I learned a few things while doing this installation, so I thought I'd share them with you. The most peculiar of these have to do with the way the Ford radio harness is wired. The light switch which controls illumination on the radio is wired in parallel with the ignition switch. The effect on the Pioneer radio is that it makes the radio think your lights are on, even when they are not, and the radio will come up dimmed every time. So, you have to use a different source to tell the Pioneer radio that your lights are on. The second thing is that the radio is not powered when the ignition switch is moved to start. This causes the motorized screen to extend and then retract every time the truck is started. In this video I will show you how to add a simple circuit that keeps the radio powered during starting.
Here are some of the items I bought for this project:
Metra Adapters (VERIFY FOR YOUR VEHICLE and Radio*) - www.amazon.com... *(The Metra Adapter kit right for your truck will depend on whether or not you have the standard sound system or premium system with factory amplifier.)
Diodes (15 amp) - www.amazon.com...
Parking Brake Bypass Circuit - www.amazon.com...
USB & Aux Mounting Cable - www.amazon.com...
Pioneer AVH-3400NEX - www.amazon.com... - Навчання та стиль
Father George, the smoked brisket champion, thank you so much for this.
even 5 years later, Father George is still helping lost souls
This is what i want for my 97 ford f-150 short bed thats fire🔥💯
this is the best installation video I've ever seen, thank you so much!
Thank You Much Sir!!! Just got the AHV-3500 to install into my 1997 F-350 and this video was very helpfull.
@Punjig I know your post was a very long time ago, but do you happen to recall the wire color under the steering column that you tapped into for the additional power feed when the key is turned to start?
@@byronw109 I just saw your message, I am not at home right now. I will check and reply again tomorrow.
Does the avh3500nex have MixTrax like the avh3400nex can someone please answer this?
3400nex says MixTrax on the monitor and the 3500nex does not
Excellent video! Thanks for making it!
Just googled the radio and stumbled on this gem, mine happens to be a 97 PSD so this will save me a lot of trouble, thanks.
Glad to help. I have enjoyed this radio a lot - especially once I got the headlight issue and the screen deploy issue sorted out.
Great video! I'm planning on putting the NEX in my 95 GMC Suburban.
Great video, I don't have the truck but I do have the radio and this information will surely be useful to many.
Thanks, that was very ingenious sir .
Great video, brilliant using the diodes to prevent back feeding
God bless
Nice father George, i'm support from Indonesia
If anyone is interested, the 1997 f350 Crew Cab reverse light wire is still black w/ purple. The wire is not by the hood latch/e-brake. It goes out the firewall plug by the drivers left foot. At least for mine this is the location I found it to be.
I thought that Ford completely redesigned the F series pickups in 1997. I did some research and found that they must have just changed the F150. Good to know.
My guy with all these inconveniences I would’ve ditched that Pioneer! KENWOOD is just as good 👍🏼
Anyways good stuff my guy.
Cute dog! ....and good information
What a good tutorial. Thank you
Great video, looking to install the AVH-3500NEX in my 94 Bronco... If it ever comes back in stock.... 🤔
Nice to see the setup works nicely in that year of F150/Bronco
It's been a great radio. I'm on my second one because thieves ripped out my first one. They didn't take it, they just ripped it out and put it in the back seat.
Does 3500nex have MixTrax?
Great instructional video.
I took your advice and installed this stereo in my 1997 F-250. When I tapped the red and green wire under the steering wheel though, the radio still powered off during start up. I checked continuity in the wire, and that's good. I bought the wiring diagram on RepairSurge, and mine looks quite a bit different from yours. I'm not well-versed in how to read these though, so I'm wondering if there's an easy way to tell which wire it is. Anyone else that's done this on a 97 and remembers the wire color, please let me know. Thanks!
Nice work
Lol.. I like this guy!
Best intro ever
This was a great video thank you for your information.
So it’s called brisket these days huh. They’ve called it so many things over the years but brisket is a new to me.
Well, brisket is the cut of meat. In Texas, the principle barbecue meat is beef, and that's brisket. I season with course salt and pepper and smoke with hickory. Makes for delicious barbecue.
AWESOME!!! Great video
You could've ran parking brake wire on the radio pigtail and twist it with the ground viola bypassed
Nope, they took care of people doing that. In order for those features to be accessed, the parking break has to be set twice in a row. The wire has to go from 12v to 0v to 12v to 0v to enable the features - which is what that circuit does.
Well done! Thank you
Thank you for this great video! Id have a beer with you good Sir!
Did you put one in? I'm considering one for my 98 silverado
Thanks for this video!!! Made my day!!!
Very helpful video. Thanks dad! I mean father 😅
I know this is a bit late, but if you could tap off of fuse 17, do you still need the diodes? Also, it would be nice to see how you soldered the diode into the harness.
Yes. The diodes are required because the switched power to the radio is off when the ignition is in start, but it comes from a different source when the ignition is in ACC. So, taking power off of a circuit that is on with the ignition when it is in start and off when it is in off results in an open path to that circuit when the ignition is in ACC. In order to keep from back powering that circuit, you need the diode.Coming off #17 is still on the same circuit, so the diode is still necessary. The other diode is necessary because there are other circuits that need to be disconnected when the ignition switch is in start. Without that diode, the extra path would power those circuits. So, no matter where you tap the power from, both diodes are required. I tried to show where they were installed starting at 11:40. I connected them right in place where I show them. I’m going to be making another video where I add a capacitor to this same circuit, and I’ll try to show the actual connections a bit better.
Thank you for the reply!
I have the same truck as you, 1995 F350. For some reason when I took out the radio that was in there from the previous owner I only saw the factory connection that is gray and the other one for the RCA cables. I see that you have a black and gray one and the kit I bought is the exact one (w/ both colors). Im stuck. Although, great video and explanation.
Sounds like you might have the Premium Audio in your truck. There's another box, an amplifier, right above the accelerator and to the right. That's a different adapter set from Metra. If you have the original Ford radio it will have the word "automatic" on the tape deck if you have the premium audio. If you don't you should be able to see the amplifier. It could be that there's an aftermarket amp in there instead.
Fr. George Thank you for the response. I’ll give it a shot.
Thanks for posting this video and your thorough explanations! I have a '97 F250 which I believe is the same dash layout as yours. Can you comment on any issues/concerns you encountered with the fold out screen being able to get at the optimal angle (when fully deployed)? My concern, in particular, is that the dash above the deck has a lip that overhangs, and I had some concerns about the screen running into that lip if I angled it back far enough so the screen faced my eyes straight on. Is there plenty of clearance there?
In my truck there is. The head unit protrudes forward of the bezel. Then, the screen itself sits forward of that plus it can be adjusted in and out. I have more than 3/4" of clearance between the back of the screen and the trim on my dash - plenty of room to tilt the screen back without hitting it.
@@FrGeorge Perfect! that's exactly the feedback I was looking for. Much appreciated!
Not to hijack, but my last flip-out deck used to hit that edge you're mentioning and it kept the screen from fully leaning back. The problem was that the motor was still trying, so you couldn't push the button or turn it off to get it to close again until you pushed the top of tbe screen enough to get it ti register fully open. So if this happens to you, I heard there is a spacer, kind of like the trim piece that goes around the outside if the deck, that moves the unit out a hair to help clearance it. Maybe you cloud even adjust the sleeve it goes in, out a little, then push in those little triangle tabs on the sleeve to kept it where you want it to stay. I'm going with this unit for my '95 Bronco so this info, especially the screen going in and out at start-up, is freaking awesome!! Thanks and sorry to hijack your thread father.....😇
@@Dnbelow1 Good to know - thanks. Though it sounds like maybe you had a different deck than this one? This one appears to have 3/4" clearance once fully deployed. And since I have the same truck and am looking at the same deck, I'll assume I'm in the clear. Good thoughts on trim pieces and other ideas for getting it to mount further out to avoid the problem.
Mine has a jensen flip out in it now. It does not turn off and on like that. Hopefully this one won't either. Really don't feel like soldering diodes
Thank you. What gauge wire did u use for the t tap on the 15amp fuse. I think it was a red wire
Video is great. Got my juices flowing for upgrading my 1979 Trans Am. So I have a question. My DIN opening is set back about 1-2" from the shelf directly above it. How far does the motorized screen protrude out before it turns upward? Will the upward swing of the screen stop if it hits and obstruction? I wouldn't mind if the screen tilts down a few degrees because it contacts that shelf above but I fear that the shelf will stop the motor and the screen will close. Any insight?
Great video Padre. I do have a question though. In the menu, there's a setting for "Auto-Flap" which allows opening and closing (flapping) the radio/display every time you turn on and off the key. Could this be a menu option that would prevent the opening and closing when the starter was engaged?
Thank you! Yes, that option does keep the screen deployed through starting, but then you have to retract it manually before shutting off the vehicle. With the screen deployed, the radio looks significantly more valuable to would-be thieves than it does retracted. Having the screen deploy automatically when the vehicle is turned on, and then close when it is turned off is way more convenient.
Hey man thanks for the help
How do you remove the new radio out to f the dash! I have the same truck and radio Im trying to install the back up camera rca plugs. But can’t figure out how to remove the stereo? I dont want to brake it on accident. Any pointers?
There is a plastic bezel around the perimeter of the face of the radio. Use some plastic pry tools to pop the bezel off. That will expose two small screw - one on each side of the radio that secure it to the bracket.
The red wires connect from stereo to harness but from the connection I add another wire there to connect to the one under the steering wheel? I have a 95 Ford bronco and I'm following the same steps lol
Out of curiosity why couldn't you use the two diods attached to the factory connector (red ignition power) and (yellow constant power) then attached both on the output side of the diod to the power on wire on the radio? Instead of tapping off of fuse 17? I must be missing something you are extremely thorough. Ps thanks for the video I am doing the exact install
You can’t do that because then the radio would be on all the time. You need the power to be switched controlled, and the yellow wire is not switched. The problem is because the red power switches off when the key moves to start, so you have to find a power source that stays on during the start, but goes off when the key is switched off.
@@FrGeorge yes I just tested that sorry to waste your time. I figured it would at least turn off with the ignition. I feel like a bone head lol. On another note look into NAPA fuse tap part number 784601 next time you want to tap onto a fuse in a tight location.
@@standstrongusa1978 no worries! And thanks for the part number. That would definitely have fit.
Can I use this Pioneer screen on my Mercedes SLK 2006??
How can I tell which unit I have in my truck for the wiring? Premium or standard?
If you have the original, factory radio, it will have the word "Automatic" written on the front of the radio near the tape deck. If you don't have the original radio, the easiest way to tell is by looking at the wiring harness. The standard harness has two connectors, a black and a gray, and they are both about the same size and shape - flat rectangular looking. If you have the premium, then one connector will be smaller and almost square in shape.
And, if you have the premium package you basically have two options - bypass the amplifier or wire through it with the non-amplified outputs from the radio. There are two different Metra adapter kits depending on what you want to do. Crutchfield's website has a nice tool to help you get the right adapter for what you want to do.
Is there a way to set it where the screen stays out when it loses power? That way a guy wouldn't have to do the extra wiring. The screen would shut off when starting, but not pull back in. Or is that not an option?
Absolutely. It’s one of the options you can set from the settings screen. Only draw back is that it leaves your screen out all the time if you don’t retract it before you shut your truck off. With the screen in, it looks like a $50 that wouldn’t be worth much at a pawn shop. With it out, it looks pretty attractive to thieves.
@@FrGeorge I gotcha. Thanks for the info! I have an '03 F-250 that I have considered getting something like this for (also a 7.3L Powerstroke).
So even if you plug the back up camera in its designated spot it won turn on unless you tap into the headlight? I am just confused because I know it has s input specifically for a backup camera
No, the headlight signal is for the automatic dimming of the display. You have to take that off a different place from the radio’s wiring harness because the one in the harness is on as long as the ignition is in run. The radio stays dimmed whether your lights are on or not. Taking the signal from the pull-out switch lets it work properly. For the backup camera, that signal wasn’t in the harness at all. I took that off the reverse light wire just before it went through the floor to go back to the reverse lights.
@@FrGeorge was there a specific wire or did you do any of them? I'm sorry I'm pretty ignorant as not when it comes to wiring
Skyler Perriera they all do different things. You’ve got to use a meter to find one that comes on with the parking lights, stays on with the headlights, and doesn’t dim with the dimmer.
Why didn't you just keep the cassette deck in???
The worst part about the factory radio and cassette deck wasn’t so much that my cassette library was long gone. The radio picked up cell phone noise something awful.
Oh I get that. I have a lot of tapes so I'd be ok. But I'm glad you didn't butcher the wiring like the owner before did to mine. I was gonna do a full on restoration but it didn't work out.
I am trying to complete this exact install. The wire under the steering column to get the additional 12v source when starting is only around 10v on my truck so it doesn't work. Does anyone have any ideas or a plan B I can try?
There shouldn't be anything between the battery bus and the wire causing a drop. What truck do you have?
@@FrGeorge 1997 f350 7.3. it's a crew cab 4x4 model. It seems the voltage returns to 12v after my glow plugs stop running. It has 2 year old motorcraft batteries. The glow plugs and new uvc harness are also only 6 months old and also motorcraft. On my truck that particular wire has power in both the run and start position.
@@billymorris5582 Yeah, that's it. You're on the right circuit then. My truck drops to around 11.5 volts with the glow plugs pulled in. The minimum voltage in the spec for the pioneer radio is 10 volts, so that might be why you're cutting out.
The batteries, even 2 years old, should be able to hold the voltage up there. Mine doesn't drop below 11v even when it's starting. I did just change my battery cables, though - a few months before I did the radio. Was having all kinds of trouble with charging and starting - new cables fixed it. I replaced them all with Motorcraft cables. Could be cables contributing to the voltage drop.
@@FrGeorge ok I'll check into that and dig a little deeper. I appreciate you taking time to initially make the video of your installation and offering the additional help.
Did it come with the backup camera, if not what camera did u use ?
happiinapii It does not come with a camera. Just about any backup camera will be compatible. I got one from RearViewSafety.com. Their cameras are expensive, but they have a rugged cable and weatherproof connector that made it a good choice for me to run the cable under the truck. If I were putting this on a car with the connection made inside the trunk and cable run through the interior of the car, I’d probably buy a $20 camera from amazon. The one I bought was $100 when I bought it and $120 now. www.rearviewsafety.com/safety-solutions/backup-camera-systems/backup-cameras/compact-backup-cameras/surface-mount-backup-camera-with-infra-red-lights.html
Fr. George thank you sir, I’ll more than likely go with that one for the same reasons. Thanks for the help. Also I’ll he installing a in dash stereo as yours, hope i can get away with ur tips on your video. However if I have any questions I’ll ask the pro.. thank you sir
hey do you have a diagram on how the pioneer wires connect to the adapter that you showed?
I don’t. The Metra Adapter came with a diagram or at least a wire schedule that indicated color and function (e.g. yellow - 12V constant). It was pretty simple to match that up with the Pioneer adapter. Crutchfield carries the Metra adapters, and they include the wire schedule on the page for each adapter.
@@FrGeorge okay & I tried clicking on the parking brake bypass circuit link and it shows that it no longer exists. Do you have another link that sells that product?
@@ovidioalexis Yeah, it’s gone and I don’t see any others. Here’s one I found on EBay:
www.ebay.com/itm/125107499448?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=VKpGHvtISty&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=0HYrYyn1Q3a&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
@@FrGeorge okay awesome, just ordered it. I have everything connected now, & I actually have the same radio and same-ish truck (95 f150). I wasn’t able to understand how the bypass was connected to the other wires, including how many diodes I would have to use. Are you able to clarify what colors of the bypass go to what on the harness for pioneer & what goes to the wires for the bypass? Sorry for all the questions, it’s just that I’m trying to do this by myself. & you’ve helped me a lot.
@@ovidioalexis No worries! Glad to help. The diodes have nothing to do with the bypass switch. The switch will come with instructions. Just follow those. The diodes are for the power wire that is controlled by the ignition switch. In my case, that was the red wire on the Metra adapter. Your ignition switch might be different than mine, and you may not need the diode circuit. In my truck, the red wire is hot when the key is in “run.” But it switches off when the key is in “start.” So, you turn the truck on, and the screen comes out. You start the truck, and the radio thinks it’s been switched off, so the screen closes. All I did was add an extra circuit coming off of a wire that stays hot when the ignition switch is in “start.” In my truck, that was the red and green wire coming from position 17 in my fuse panel. That circuit runs instruments that stay on while the truck is starting. One diode is connected directly in-line with the red wire in the Metra adapter. The other diode comes from that red and green wire on the ignition switch and connects to the cathode end of the first diode. You want to make sure both cathode ends are toward the pioneer radio. In my truck, there was no room to put a fuse tap in the box. That would have been the easiest thing to do. You may have room in yours.
Which are better these? Or double din?
Well, the challenge with my vehicle is I don’t have the space for a double din, otherwise I’d have put a double height head unit. They’re less expensive than this one, but if all you’ve got is a single height slot, this is a great solution.
Would this fit in a 94 Silverado?
Probably, although I think you’ve got a double DIN height rack in your truck, and could install a touchscreen head unit that is stationary. This radio is best suited for vehicles that only have a single height space. The website crutchfield.com is a great resource to figure out what head units are compatible and what accessories you might need for installation. If you only have a single DIN height slot, then this radio is you best bet.
Where are you located if your near Wisconsin in the future would you be willing to install if I paid for parts thanks -sam
Sam Schultz alas, I’m in Texas. You should be able to find a good installer for a reasonable fee. They just need to know about those issues with the lights and ignition.
would the wiring be the same for a 1988?
I would assume so. Repairsurge.com would have wiring schematics to help you locate it. But, you can also just find the circuit on your fuse panel. You might be able to fit a piggy-back fuse in yours that would save you locating the wire. Just look for the fuse that goes to the engine instruments. That will stay on through the start. You still need the diodes either way.
@@FrGeorge thanks!
Sucks they cost so much, but I guess price reflects quality
They are expensive, but really the only option if all you’ve got is a single-high slot. I got mine, new, from eBay for $400. Every now and then you can find a good price compared to retail.
@@FrGeorge yeah hunting around for an avh-3400 or a avh-3500 hoping to find a price below $500.
Don’t wanna go through the hassle of converting a single din slot into a double din slot, but I’d like to have features of a double din unit.
What kind of back up camera did you get for your truck??
I got a camera from Review View Safety - the RVS-779. This is the second RVS camera I've had. The other I put on my daughter's Ford Focus. It's expensive - $100. But, it has a really durable cable with weather tight connectors. This was important for me since I was running the cable under the truck along the frame rail. And, I bought a long enough cable that I can move the camera to the back of a trailer when I'm towing - I keep it coiled above my trailer hitch frame when not towing. Having said that, I'm not completely happy with this particular camera. It has 8 built-in infrared LED's for night vision, but they are behind a glass cover. The lights reflect off the glass back into the camera lens and make it harder to see at night. The other camera in my daughter's car has the LED's, but not behind glass and it works much better.
George McGavern oh wow thanks so much! Yeah to be honest I feel like I mostly need it for night time cause I can’t really see throw my tints and I have a pretty big van do you remember the model you got for your daughters ? Or was it a newer version of the one you had on your ford? I’ve been trying to find a decent back up camera forever.
The one I put on my daughter's car was a license plate mounted camera that I don't see on their website anymore. The license plate frame has infrared LED's all around the perimeter. You might look at the RVS-MV3-IR. It has four LED's, it looks like they are not behind the glass lens cover. That would probably work pretty well. I'd recommend the RVS cameras if you're going to run the cable under your van. If you're going to run it through the interior of the van where it will be protected from the elements, there are several cheaper models with good reviews from Amazon.
George McGavern oh I see thanks so much for the tips! You’ve been a huge help and the video was a great!
@@FrGeorge I am unable to find this camera on RVS website. Do you have a picture of what the type of model it looks like?
Could you just ground it
If you're talking about the parking brake input, no. The radio requires it be grounded-open-grounded in a short sequence in order to enable bypassed functions. Functionally, that means you have to set the parking brake, unset it, and then set it again to access the features. This is a requirement Pioneer put in to keep installers from just grounding the input. All they did was create a market for those little circuits like I put in.
You know you can change that feature of automatic screen deploy
Team30HzBelow Yes, and that’s what I did for a little while. You have to remember to retract it manually when you stop if you don’t want it out there for all the world to see. It’s helpful that the screen retracts and makes the radio look like a low-cost head unit. Plus, for a couple of diodes and some simple wiring it’s nice to have the automatic deploy.
All you had to do was tie that wire in with the ground, all it is is a ground
No, it’s a ground that has to be set to ground, then disconnected and set again. The circuit goes through those motions. If you just connect it to ground it won’t work. When connected to the parking brake circuit properly, the parking brake has to be set, unset, and set again for the features to be unlocked. You can’t accomplish that just setting it to ground.
@@FrGeorge been working just fine on all of mine. Stereo shop guy showed it to me years ago. Parking brake wire is just a ground wire, nothing more. But hey, you install your way, I'll install mine. Was just trying to save you the $14 for a part not needed.
Pioneer figured that out and have made it harder to bypass. I know the parking brake is just a ground, but Pioneer radios now require the sequence of setting, releasing, and setting the brake within so many seconds to unlock the features. That required sequence means you can’t just connect it to ground. Years ago, the sequence wasn’t required. Later radios tried to make it harder to bypass their safety feature by making the sequence.
@@FrGeorge they must slacked off on it then. I just put one in my 95 f150 and bypassed it thru the ground. Who knows what these radio companies do, it's a role of the dice.