Peat Moss Vs Sphagnum Moss: Best Venus Flytrap Soil Mix Substrate - What Is The Difference?
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- Опубліковано 28 кві 2021
- Peat Moss Vs Sphagnum Moss: Best Venus Flytrap Soil Mix/Substrate - What Is The Difference?
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Today we are going to talk about the pros and cons of using peat moss vs sphagnum moss as a substrate for growing a venus flytrap. I do my best
to break down which substrate would work better for each kind of grower.
I determined, if you are a beginner you should probably go with peat moss as there is less chance to kill your plant but it will grow slower. If you are more experienced and have a good grip on water levels then I would recommend going with long fiber sphagnum moss as your venus flytrap will grow 2-3 times faster.
It really comes down to what your experience level is and what your comfortable with. Both seem to grow about the same once they hit adulthood in both soil mixes. It might come down to which one you enjoy looking at. I prefer the look of the sphagnum moss but I know a lot of people appreciate the earthy look of peat moss.
Hopefully, you have enough info to make up your mind! Sound off in the comments with any questions or opinions you might have!
Don't forget to like this video and subscribe to my channel. Thank you for all your support!!
If you put some of each in your food processor and mix them together makes a great medium.
That's a great idea!!
I was going to ask that. I'm new but want the best medium.
alternatively it also makes a great snack
I find your videos super informative and helpful learning how these plants work. Thank you!
Of course! I'm glad I could help you out!
I’m new with carnivorous plants, THANK YOU! your videos are helping me so much!!! ❤❤❤
I love to hear that, exactly why I started this channel!!
I listen to your videos while doing stuff lol ur voice and music is great.
Thank you for your kind words! I so very much appreciate your support!
Was just wondering this after watching your last video! Love your vids. Subbed!
That's awesome! Thank you so much for your support Dave, it really means a lot my friend!
I used peat moss and perlite mix and my carnivorous plants hated it. I was shocked but when I swapped to sphagnum they thrived.
There are a lot of unknown factors there. Was the Peat Moss rinsed? I've pulled Peat from the bag and had water come off it at 350 PPM. Which will kill flytraps pretty quick. Not all brands are like that, but I know some are. Even with no additives. Hard to say for sure why they didn't like it, but there was probably some reason. I'm glad that moss is working out for you though! It's a great substrate for flytraps.
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub Do you know if EB Stone peat moss has a high ppm?
Hello! I have not used this brand before. I'm sorry. If you can, rinse it with distilled water and measure what rinses out with a tds meter. That's the only way to be certain.
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub All good! I checked the tds after rinsing it out and it's at 17 ppm. This might be because I put sphagnum on the bottom though. I am not sure
Hope you achieve your goal man been subbed for a while the UA-cam statistics will hit your Chanel soon!!
Thank you Cara, I really appreciate it!
Great video and interesting findings. I grow my VFTs and Drosera adelaea [lance leaf sundew] (I live in Queensland where that sundew is native) in a base mix of sphagnum peat moss and washed river sand, with a top layer of growing long-fibre sphagnum. I do not use perlite as it gets everywhere, is dusty and unattractive. I also get around the watering problems you mentioned by tray/bottom watering instead of top watering. To release the roots from a long-fibre mix, just soak the root ball in distilled water for an hour or so - don't drown the plant but soak the entire root ball. The sphagnum long fibres will release the roots fairly easily just not as easily as in peat mix.
I definitely agree that the longer soak will help untangle the roots, but its still a pain to have to soak for an hour before repotting. Not too bad, but still a pain. I've actually moved almost entirely to tray watering as well. I'm starting to see the benefits over top watering for sure.
I love your plants and your videos are so helpful.
Aww, thank you, Kathy! I appreciate you saying that!!
Awesome video! thank you for your info. going to make a hybrid combo now!
That should work great!
What's good for the goose is good for the gander
I just subbed. Great video's and very informative. My Father was always trying to grow Flytraps in five gallon water cooler jugs, the old glass kind. It never worked of course. He used to make some incredible terrariums from them with moss and ferns. Flytraps and such always died. From watching your video's I think I'm going to try a Wallymart five buck special to see if I can keep it alive. Then maybe, maybe try some private growers.
Ya, their care is a bit different. Putting them in a terrarium is a really common misconception. People think they are a tropical plant that need a lot of humidity, like in the jungle. Which just is not true. They want full sun! But also have different needs with soil and water than most plants. Good luck on your venus flytrap journey! Just be careful, it's addicting!
I use both. A small layer of moss at the base to wick up water and the rest of the pot is a peat moss mix. 3/1 PM/Per
I had 5 VFTs in LFS and 15 VFTs in peat+perlite. The 5 VFTs in LFS started declining. I unpotted them and discover they were suffering from crown rot. I repotted them into peat+perlite. Now they are recovering nicely. Maybe it's just my environment, but peat+perlite works better for me. Everyone has to figure out what works best for them
I 100% agree Peter. I don think environment has some impact on which of these will work the best. It may take a little trial and error, but personally, I also prefer the peat & perlite mix.
I think mine have the same problem about half of the new traps turn black before they open I plan to repot them soon with peat
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub we can add that to the kick backs with the electronic screwdriver
Good video!
Thank you!
Drinking game… take a hit every time he’s says “Ummm” or “Err” 😂
Only of you want to get wasted! 🍻
I think that peat is more prone to weeds that LFS. However, I do put both of them into boiling water for a few minutes to try to kill off any weed seeds.
Also, for my plants, i don't worry if the roots has some old media on them unless there are actual problems with the old media. What comes off easily is removed, but I don't spend time on roots. It means less disturbance to the roots which results in plants quicker to recover after repotting.
I live in south florida andhad an issue this year where our rains can get very violent (hurricanes and all) and my plant got battered down and would get its traps full of perlite and peat moss. Wonder if I make the entire pot with peat and perlite mix, but make a thin top layer with sphagnum moss I can prevent that happening in the events of a heavy rain.
Also, when that happens, the underside pf the planta gets covered in peat and it kinda just sticks to the leaf. Another thing that sphagnum moss could solve
i use lfs about an inch in the bottom, peat for the filler and just enough lfs to cover the top of the peat.
if you use only lfs and let it dry out in the sun on accident on a hot summer day its game over for your plant.
i always use a tray and keep it from drying out though.
I've heard of many people using a hybrid mix. I've seen sellers use lfsm on top and peat on the bottom. The peat also gives the pot weight so it doesn't tip over in wind. Mixing the two is a great idea!
Love this video been watching a few of yours now I just have a question I recently repotted 2 of my traps I bought from vandermeer they look small and young but when taking them out the dirt the main rot seem to be wrapped in idk if it was moss or not I kinda just planted it the way it was in one pot with the new moss and peat moss mix in the other pot
And yeah they were flat so I take it they are in shock still. Cause they not looking lively atm
That's pretty common, give them some time and as long as the care is good they will start shooting up new traps. Usually after the shock period they grow back bigger and stronger!
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub okay thank you !
Great video! Really informative, thanks for making this. I do have a question - when you up-pot a VFT that's in Sphagnum Moss, could you just leave the moss that's already attached to the roots? Or is that not good for the plant?
It kind of depends. What condition is the current moss in and how old is it. MOST of the time, I'm removing it. The older stuff can contain bacteria, mold and even unwanted critters. Usually, for the best health of the plant, I try to remove most of the old stuff. With that being said, sometimes in order to remove it all, you can damage roots. Especially with old sphagnum moss. If you find yourself breaking a lot of roots to get it off, I think it' better to leave it and don't bother the roots. Kinda of a balancing act. Hope that helps!
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub thanks for the reply! Good to know! I suppose it's recommended to always get rid of the original soil that it came in from Walmart?
Yes, I almost always get rid of Wal Mart soil.
I cut up the lfs into short pieces and mix evenly with peat and perlite
I've heard of others doing that as well. I can't think of a reason not to do this, probably makes a really high quality mix!
Hey, guy, what's up? This is a very informative video, I appreciate the time you took to make it, very detailed. I have a "problem" here, I'm about to make a bog for my VFT and its divided potentials. I would do it using peat moss and perlite, but I don't have enough peat moss to fill the bowl, in the other hand I have enough sphagnum moss to do it. Now I don't know if I would make a layer of peat+perlite and the top with pure sphagnum, or invert this set with peat+perlite on the top, or even if I mix the three of them all together. Wich way do you think it would be best?
I would recommend that you lay down a bed of peat moss and perlite the top it with the long fiber sphagnum moss. Actually, there are a lot of reputable sellers out that that use that method in their pots to save on using so much long fibers sphagum moss, since it's more expensive. If you are going to use a combo of both, I think the best method is a bed of the peat/perlite then LFSM on the top.
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub for the top do I need to mix the sphagnum with perlite too? I could make 2:1 peat perlite for the bed and mix some more perlite into the sphagnum.
Best way I've found to help removal of sphagnum moss and peat ,is to put some RO water in a container and put plant into the water and slowly tease the moss / peat away from root's. Much better than trying to pull off the plant's like shown on video 830.
I just did this with a repotting, I spent a good 30 minutes teasing the roots away, after soaking it for 3 hours. It helps, but can still be a huge mess and job. It's not impossible or really even that difficult but it's time consuming to do it right. So much more work than the peat moss that just falls right off in water.
Thanks guys don't get angry
I only use LFSM!
This was a wonderful comparison video and thank you for providing the information. I have a question. I have a Home Depot bought VFT, growing in a small 4" pot, and in long sphagnum moss. Can I just transfer the plant with its current medium into a larger pot with long sphagnum moss? My logic is that I would avoid the root untangling process. Thank you and keep the videos coming.
There are a few factors there. Have you been growing it with success for a while? If so, it's probably okay. The problem with older substrate is that over time it can create bacteria and mold and be bad for the plant. If it's still fairly fresh, it's probably okay. I like to try and remove as much of the old substrate as possible.
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub Thank you for the reply. I ended up completely repotting the VFT into a 12" deep pot with all new long sphagnum moss. Unfortunately, four traps didn't survive the transfer. However, it has since bounced back and is doing phenomenal now. Grow, my pretties! Mua ha ha ha ha!
Sorry about the loss but happy the others are doing great. It's not uncommon to lose a couple during repotting. Good luck!!
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub Thank you and keep that wonderful VFT content coming!
Hi love the content, what’s the ratio for moss peat, pearlite & silica/ horticultural sand is it a straight 1/3 each. Thanks 💙🇮🇪
I try to do 50/50 on the peat and perlite but just kind of eye the sand. I know it's usually a little less sand than the others.
This is a good vs
Thank you!
Please do a soil mix video like this for nepenthes as well. I have a ventrata that I planted in peat moss + perlite, but I don't know if that's good for it in the long term.
Honestly, I'm not sure the substrate for nepenthes is as debated as it is for venus flytraps. I have planted some of my nepenthes in peat moss before but it's not the best substrate for nepenthes. You are almost always going to be better off putting them in long fiber sphagnum moss. I don't think there is much debate there. I've had to use peat mostly because I just didn't have any LFSM, but I'd always go sphagnum moss first if I had some available.
I don't think peat moss allows the roots to breathe (which is a must for nepenthes) and might cause root rot
I've use long-fiber sphagnum moss for my neps for many years, way better result in long-fiber vs peat and perlite. In fact, when I get a plant from the nursery, I rinse off all the peat moss and pack the roots with wet long-fiber and they do great!
Hello sir. Quick question,can we mix both sphagnum moss and peat moss in one pot for VFT?
You sure can! Lots of people do that!
i had issues last summer with squirrels digging up and ruining my outdoor flytrap planter using LFS. I think I'm going to try using peat/perlite or using LFS and sprinkling cinnamon or cayenne pepper powder on the surface
Ya, I have better lucky with squirrels using peat/perlite. They really seem to like pulling out the moss for their nests. I saw someone post the other day that they put crushed glass as a topper above their sphagnum moss and it's stopped squirrels all together. They were worried about the glass heating up the planter, but they tested the soil and it never elevated temps. Crushed glass might be an option, I'm hesitant to use cinn or cayenne, not sure if it would have a negative impact but I'd rather not if I can avoid it.
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub thanks I think I will try peat/perl/sand rather than adding anything.
I like using bones of my enemies as well it works good my vft are growing big fast
Ha! There is still hope for our species! 😂🤣😂
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub Do you have an Instagram account if you do I would also like to support you there!
I do! I'm not as active as I should be on there. Something I need to work on. But, I'm @carnivorousplantshub
What size pots do u use and do u get them
What about mixing both in the same pot? Sphagnum is currently surprisingly cheap near me and I'm thinking about repotting a sarracenia and a VFT.
Yes, you can definitely do that!
I use the long fiber spagnum moss (Sold as "Orchid moss" at my local greenhouse) and I place a handful of small rocks and an inch of sand at the bottom of a very tall planter to simulate the beachy swamps these things grow naturally in. It seems to help drain excess water well but the sand keeps a small amount of moisture in the pot so they dont dry out.
Seems to be working OK for me. Does anyone else do this? Or have a reason I shouldnt add small rock and sand at the bottom?
Do you tray water or top water? My only concern with rocks and sand at the bottom is that they are inert and do not absorb water. Tray watering would be ineffective with rocks and sand at the bottom. If you are top watering, I would think it would be okay as long as the planter is deep enough for the roots to stretch out!
I'm totally new to this so if this question sounds silly you'll understand why.
When you have bought a new vft, how do you know if it's been through dormancy?
It's hard to know for sure if it was in dormancy. The signs of dormancy can also be the same signs that a light deprived venus flytrap has. So, it's almost impossible to say for sure if a plant has been in dormancy. I would recommend with new flytraps, to just give them good care until the next dormancy period. Then, since they are going in healthy, give them a good proper dormancy.
Hello so I repotted my carnivorous plant yesterday that I got from Home Depot 2 days ago. I woke up this morning and they look limp and dry (still green) but I feel like they're dead. Are they in a dormant phase right now or repotting it caused the plant to die?
This is totally normal. After repotting them, they do go through a period of repotting shock. Make sure you acclimate them to full sun/lighting slowly. Start with 4 hours a day for a week, move to 5 week two then up to 6 and so on until they are getting full sun. Make sure they are getting enough water and they should start to take off. Sometimes, all the existing flytraps die on a repot, but the new growth comes up nice and healthy.
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub thank you! Your videos have been pretty helpful I hope you keep it up :)
Me too! I really enjoy doing them, it's just finding the time with 3 kids and a full time job. It's a lot of work, but really feels worth it. I enjoy helping people grow these wonderful plants!
Should I switch my VFT from sphagnum moss to peat moss? It’s currently In small container with sphagnum but it’s multiple VFT in that container. (They’re not growing as properly because they’re bunched up) I want to buy a small glass greenhouse and add more carnivorous plants too it so should I fill it up with peat moss or keep the sphagnum?
It's really up to you Noah, I prefer peat moss mixes but sphagnum moss works really well too. It really comes down to what is better suited for you. Be careful with small glass green houses, they can get very hot in direct sun.
I actually use both, peat moss mix for the first one and sphagnum moss for the second I've had the plant grow much faster it has been 2 weeks and the first trap is almost grew. but peat moss mix is much heathier
I'm definitely a big fan of peat moss mix, but I know man people have good success with sphagnum moss.
I was told that sand and perlite is salty for the flytrap which will slow the growth and you should simmer the bottom in the water because the traps is really fragile
Silica sand is Inert and does not absorb any salts. I would avoid any sand that is not silica. I've not ever heard of perlite containing salts, but I do always soak my new perlite just to be sure.
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub I haven't try it myself, perhaps you could make this in video as to compare which medium is better growth. Have a nice day!
Thanks loads for the information. I will stick with the peat moss. My question is, can I grow this plant in Nevada?
You sure can! You just have to be careful during the months of extreme heat. You may need to give them morning son, then make sure they are under a shade cloth during the really hot afternoons. Stay VERY up on water, in Nevada during the summer I'd make sure they tray ALWAYS has water in it. As long as you keep them watered and make sure they aren't exposed to prolonged 100 plus days, they should be good to go!
Have you heard warping the roots with moss then placing into 1 part perlite, 1 part peat moss? Would this work?
That would probably be okay, the only problem with that is sphagnum moss holds moisture a bit different than peat. It would make it a little harder to know when you should water. Sphagnum moss dries out faster than peat.
I get long fiber sphagnum moss for 6.99 for 4 litres so maybe I will stick to that lol even tho I have a huge bag of peat moss.
Ps love the video! Thanks for the info
Also if you receive a fly trap thats been grown in a peat pod, do you remove the pod or keep it in it?
Ya, that's a good price for sphagnum moss, hard to blame you there. Yes, I usually will remove those peat pods and repot it. I don't think they are very good for anything other than very short term.
Thanks for the video and I appreciate it, but the first two/three minutes are just saying you're going to explain what the difference is, which is why we're watching the video! And then the next 3 minutes were talking about the results of a simple survey. Then you get the pros & cons .... eventually! I would suggest making this video a bit quicker :) But when you get to the good stuff, the video is very helpfu!
Thank you for the feedback Jim! I'm always trying to improve and comments like this help me stay focused and look for opportunities. Appreciate the constructive and positive feedback!
I accidentally bought a bag of what I thought was Peat and when I got home I discovered the bag said in small print. “alternative” to peat. It looks like peat but I’m a bit weary to use it.
I have my VFTs potted in long-fiber sphag and sitting in a saucer of distilled water. I don't think they suffer root rot because in their natural habitat, they grow in wet, boggy conditions for much of the year (source: Venus Flytrap| US Fish and Wildlife, Tennessee Naturescapes), it's when they dry out that they die.
I see this comment a lot. Trust me when I say, if you leave them in stagnant water they can get crown rot. I've lost a few venus flytraps to crown rot. Especially if temps go below 70 degrees. The difference between a bog and a tray of water is that the bogs are constantly cycling fresh water. Also, venus flytraps tend to grow more in drier areas than I the actual bog. They rarely grow directly in the bog water area amd more commonly grow on the side of the bog where it's more dry. I promise you that keeping a VFT in a constant tray of water is opening it up to crown rot. The only exception is if the temps are regularly above 90 degrees.
Here's a Prof discussing it 😉 ua-cam.com/video/7rLgd1Siwms/v-deo.html
in the wild the dissolved oxygen levels are high home grown in pot and tray levels very low and in the wild they grow in wet savannah not bogs
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub so how often would you water your vft in long-fiber at this date in time? (I live in ohio) just so you know. And i used your discount code for California carnivores thank you lol. Have a good one.
@@KngAztec nice airplane wings
I tried growing vft from seeds by putting them in distilled water. Some germinated and I put some in sphagnum and one in peat. The ones in sphagnum stayed green and the one in peat turned brown. Is that normal?
There are a lot of unknown factors. It's not too unusual for a seedling to die. But there are many factors outside of just the substrate.
long fiber sphagnum provides less cold insulation to the roots
Interesting, not something I had considered, good callout!
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub I found out the hard way
I used long fiber sphagnum and rain water.. my larger plant just put out 3 flowers.. hoping to collect seeds😊
Good luck!
would it make sense to use the moss just in the bottom as a layer that can soak up the water quickly and the rest is soil ?
You can do that but you don't need the moss to wick up, I've learned a trick where you can put a paper towel in the bottom of your pot to help with wicking. Usually people put peat in the bottom for weight then lfsm on top. If they do a split substrate.
I was told that you have to coil the LFSM around in the pot like a snake so question 1 is that true and question 2 if that is true if u cut it into small pieces can you just stick it in the pot like you do peat
Not around the pot, just around the plants roots. You just want to make sure that all the roots are touching the sphagnum moss. I wrap the roots in moss, then dig a hole in the pot.
I like to mix peat pearlite silica sand and lfsm at the bottom
I've seen it the other way around. The Sphagnum moss on top then peat, perlite and silica sand at the bottom! So many ways to skin a cat!
I noticed in one comment you said keeping a VFT in a dish of distilled water may be bad for it. I’ve had mine in a dish for about 3 months and it’s been okay so far, but I do live in the hot Florida climate so maybe that’s why. What are other ways I can keep the soil watered?
Yes, that's 100% it. It's not black and white with tray water. As long as it's hot, it's okay to leave the tray full because the plant is really going through the water. Once it gets down into the 60s, 50s F, if you leave it in a tray of water all the time, it can get crown rot due to stagnant water. Check out my watering video for more details! ua-cam.com/video/hfQKNffFp3s/v-deo.html
@@CarnivorousPlantsHubI usually put less water in the tray and leave the plant without water for a few days till it feels more dry is that fine?
I like to use sphagnum as a topper
I've seen people do that for sure. Actually, I've seen a few sellers do this. They sell it as planted in sphagnum moss, when you go to repot you realize it was just topped and the entire bottom is peat moss. This is a bit misleading, but it has it's benefits. The weight of the peat moss helps keep the plant from tipping over. Plus, I believe both substrates do a great job, so it's never been that big of a deal to me. The sphagnum moss is just way more expensive.
I noticed you clean the peat moss plug away from the roots before replanting. Is that necessary??? Please rsvp
I do if I don't trust the substrate it was in. If I buy from big box, I almost always clean it all off. If it's from a trusted nursery, It's okay to leave some, but I still like to clear out the old substrate in case of any bacteria or mildew has formed.
What about a mixture of both?? The best of both worlds?? I just got a flytrap and she is still in her little planter from trader Joe's
So this is a stupid question but why when your spagnum moss breaks down why do you need to repot it?
When it breaks down it loses its mass. It will start to expose the rhizome and will sink lower into the plater/pot you have it in. The lower it goes, the harder it is to get sun. Not a stupid question at all!
is coco peat mixed with perlite suitable for these plants as well?
No, stay away from coco peat, it's often filled with salt because the coconut husk is collected from coastal areas. Ive heard of husks being collected more inland and avoiding the high salt content, but I've never personally seen it. Like with any substrate, make sure you are measuring the run off water with a TDS meter before you use it to plant a carnivorous plant.
If I just have peat moss and perlite would that work or do I really need the silica sand?? Also what ratio of each do you use
Peat moss and Perlite will work. I like using the sand, but a mix without the sand should be okay.
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub okay thank you so much
I've been a novice VFT grower for years, not having much success. Thankfully there is so much information, but much of it is full of contradictions and unclear for a beginner. I have plenty of questions to ask, and I hope that you will be able to answer and explain, please. I will try transplanting again, this time, using the peat moss rather than the sphagnum moss. I keep my terrarium in my kitchen on the north side of my home. Is that adequate light during the growing season? Do I need to use perlite, silica sand and the peat moss when I transplant? If so, what ratios? If not, which should I use? What is peat and what is peat moss? My terrarium will need to be cleaned currently having had the dead VFT in it. How do I clean the terrarium? The shape is a vertical rectangular prism. I live in Phoenix, AZ where it's dangerously or uncomfortable hot for about 9 months of the year, including drought. When should I put my VFT into dormancy? The winter months are December through February with temperatures in the low 70 degrees in a, and the mid to high 40 degrees in the pm. Would that environment make a sufficient dormancy even though it would be exposed to sunlight, or should I use the refrigerator instead? I have had so many questions and hope to receive your knowledgeable answers. I would really appreciate your thorough reply.
The first thing is you should probably not put your venus flytrap in a terrarium. They really don't need the high humidity and thrive in more open sunny conditions. I'm not sure what lighting you are giving it, but if you insist on growing it inside, I'd go with a Sansi 36 watt bulb or Yescom 225 panels. Both can be found on Amazon for under $40. They need a lot of light, probably 12-15 hours a day. I recommend Peat Moss, Perlite and Silica sand, but I know a lot of people have good success without the sand. So even a Perlite and Peat moss mix would suffice. The sand just helps the water flow even better and is great for aeriation. 1 part peat moss, 1 part perlite, I go 50/50 for the best results. Probably half as much sand as everything else, if you go the sand route. Staying above 70 degrees during the day will not allow the flytrap to trigger dormancy. It needs to stay under 50 degrees so the refrigerator method might be your best bet for dormancy. It does need a dormancy period or it will not last long term. I hope that helps! I'm going to try and do some dormancy videos coming up including how to put a flytrap through dormancy in a refrigerator.
Thank you very much, especially for taking your time to respond to my inquiries. It's good to receive personal advice about the VFT from an experienced botanist!
Of course! Glad I could help!
Can I use Coco coir in place of peat moss? Also, am I striving for a neutral pH (7)?
Usually not. Coir is typically harvested close to the ocean and has high salt contents. You can soak it for a few days and try to get the salt out but it can be a big pain.
Would it be okay if I used peat moss and river rocks on top?
It depends on the rocks. As long as they are a hard mineral and don't leach, they should be fine. I did a video with some river type rocks on top of my venus flytraps. I really like the way it looks. You can check it out here. ua-cam.com/video/jQ2o7ZfNMZE/v-deo.html
My Venus Fly Traps have only germinated in the sphagnum peat moss, so that's the one I will go with for now.
If it's working, stick with it! Mine personally germinate in peat moss every time!
Can I use pumice instead of perlite?
Just rinse well, it should be okay.
Thanks for the video! Have you tried soaking the roots with the sphagnum moss on before taking it off? That helps.
That's a great callout! I have dipped the roots in water. It did seem to help a bit, but not a lot. Not like it does for a peat mix. Lol.
I got a vft and got the moss stuff saw a guy put it in a bag with the vft bare root in a fridge and thought i got robbed and sent crap soil but i guess i got a good deal in the end
Ive had my flytrap for a year. It's now flowering and i want to try growing more through propagation. All i can find where im located is long fiber sphagnum moss. Can you tell me how i should mix this for my soil? I also need to repot my original flytrap. Right now its in a peat moss perlite mix. Will changing the soil mix shock it??
You can use a long fiber sphagnum moss, it's a great alternative and some people even prefer it. The plant might need to adjust a bit to new conditions but it should be just fine.
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub Thank you for replying to me. Can I use just the Sphagnum Moss? Nothing else? I thought of adding some perlite but im hesitant since im a newb.
You can add some perlite, but it's not necessary. Just wrap the roots and rhizome in the sphagnum moss and put it up. If you do use perlite, make sure to rinse it first!
Is it necessary to remove all of the old substrate when repotting?
It kind of depends. If I purchased from a reputable seller and I trust what they used and how they cared for the plant, probably not. You can just leave some or most of it on there. However, if you buy from big box store I strongly recommend to remove all of it. They likely watered with tap water which means the substrate will be soaked with nutrients and minerals, best to just get it completely off. Also, I've seen many pests living in the substrate from the big box stores. I'd hate to get new pests because I didn't remove the substrate. If you trust the seller, you are probably good, if not, I'd get rid of as much as possible!
I tried signing up to get the Free Venus Flytrap Care Sheet & Plant Tracker but never get the email link!
Shoot! Send me an email at cplantshub@gmail.com. I'll get one sent over.
when can I expect this?
Still have not received this 'Free Venus Flytrap Care Sheet & Plant Tracker'
Could I boil and filter the preserved moss from Dollarama several times to remove the chemicals, then use it for potting my venus fly trap?
You could certainly try! Just keep a TDS meter handy to measure the water run off. When it goes under 50 PPM, it should be safe.
There is an "Um" every five seconds I find it kinda funny. Btw throughout the 2 years of me taking care of carnivorous plants, you've helped me out SO much, keep on going!
Oh man, my earlier videos were rough. I've really had to work on my umms... Getting better although a lot of it can be credited to just better editing. Lol.
I inspired this video
Haha! I had been researching it for a couple weeks. And soliciting feedback. But, I was dragging my feet on it a little, you maybe have nudged me a bit. 😂
U inspire me joseph
LFS prices seem to have gone up. Last time I bought it about a year ago it was about 11 bucks for 8L now it’s 20 something.
I haven't bought any in a while since I mostly use Peat./Perlite. I'll have to jump on and check current prices.
Dollar store :) !!! It’s $3 for a small/medium sized bag that’s packed. It’s so cheap
What will happen if you combine peat moss under then long fiber spag moss on top
A lot of people do this! If you want to use long fiber sphagnum and add some peat in the bottom, that's a great idea. It saves you some money and helps add weight to your pot. The folks over at Flytrapstore.com do this and they are some of the best in the business. I think it's a great way to do it!
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub just planning to have onecarnivorous plant someday
I think LFS is better for seedlings and baby traps
I've never tried propagating with it, maybe next time I do it, I'll give it a shot. I just started a small propagation project from my B52 and UK Sawtooth II but It's already in the planter. Video for that coming soon!
i thought the video will give an opinion about what the best substrate is but it looks like it's more of a pro/con video.
good info though!
Ya, my goal originally was to determine which is better. But it turns out, which is better totally depends on your situation. I did say in the video that I prefer Peat Moss. However, I think if I were to start selling flytraps (Hopefully someday!), I would switch to LFSM. So, I don't think there is a correct answer here, I think it just kind of depends on your situation. All I can really do is provide the info, which you choose has to be more based on what your plans are. I think beginners are better off going Peat, which I do talk about in the video.
Hi i have a question, i will be going to a vacation and it will last 3 weeks, can i mix the 2 substrates for more moisture while im not there for watering?
Peat moss actually retains moisture longer. Lfsm dries out quicker.
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub thank you, how do i make it moist while im gone?
but whenever I repot with peat moss (ive done this twice) , all of the traps die off within a couple of days (im a beginner). and this new flytrap i got, the seller highly recommends sphagnum so I'm not sure anymore. PLEASE HELP MEHHH
There is a good chance you didn't rinse your peat. Honestly though, it's hard for me to say why they died without knowing all growing conditions. The substrate may have nothing to do with it. I've seen great success in both substrates. With proper care neither should kill your plant after a repotting.
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub I actually did rince it though but I recently bought a tds meter and I’m confused cuz when I put in the distilled water it wasn’t pure water so-👁👄👁
hi I'm from India. I have Venus fly trap . shall I use washed coco peat and perlite for pot mix . its good for plants
I would not use coco peat. It usually has way too high of salt content.
Can you mix long fiber moss with sand??
You can, but I would think the sand would just sink in that mix. I'd probably avoid sand. You can mix Perlite with LFSM though.
Have you ever mixed the two? 40 peat 30 sphagnum 20 perlite 10 sand?
I've mixed Peat and LFSM for nepenthes, but not for flytraps. I know some people do it with success though! But I've never personally tested it.
I brought organic sphagnum peat moss but it's not long. Is that ok?
The peat moss mixes are not long. It's basically sphagnum moss that has turned into a soil type substrate. The only long fiber will be buying it as sphagnum moss not as peat. Once its peat it looks more like soil rather than the actual moss.
It should be fine
My fly trap has lots of traps and the little 9 cm pot is full what is the best way to repot it with out killing it.
I would love some good advice.
Hello Ian! I just did a repotting video, you can check it out here. I give some care tips and show you how to repot. ua-cam.com/video/J0bzYrxZhfk/v-deo.html
I perf peat n perlite or washed sand. The spag drys way to quick especially if you have a large collection out side in all day sun ,to meny times id have to water in the hot summer same with the sarracena and dews,the peat holds more water in hotter times in direct sun,for me at least ... every one's different
yes, the peat and perlite definitely hold in the moisture better. This is a huge benefit in hotter areas.
Hello
Hello!
What is the best gardening store to buy a more variety of carnivorous plants? Getting into the hobby and I only have flytraps right now.
I don't know all regional gardening stores. But I've had the best luck at Lowes. Home Depot has some VFT's from time to time and I've also seen more mature Ventrata's hanging at Home Depot. The Ventratas at Home Depot are rare though. Lowes seems to get new shipments of different types of carnivorous plants more often. I've seen Nepenthes, Sarracenia and venus flytraps there before.
peat moss make water murky isnt it,. idk why mine really murk like a tea even after i change the water it will look bad again after 1 week
It does. Gives the water a light brown tint. But it usually goes away after a few changings.
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub and it does increase the TDS too right? idk first addinf water was 40ish Tds and after a while it increase to 60+ Tds
i used long fiber sphagnum moss. :) it's much mo easier and cleaner.
Yes, it's definitely cleaner. And I do lean toward liking the way it looks better.
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub i also have a high rate of success using LFS for propagation even much higher using live sphagnum moss.
That's super interesting. I'll have to give it a try sometime down the road. I just always have so much peat on hand, its so easy to just grab some. I feel like I'm always out of sphagnum moss, ordering more.
I tend to be a "fusion" enthusiast. How about starting the bottom with peat/sand/perlite only then gradually add more and more moss as you get to the top? Maybe this will minimize the cost and the improve the repotting procedure, and still give much of the benefits you discussed. Would love to hear for the experts!
This could definitely work! I know a lot of people to mix the substrates together. There are definitely some people who do that currently!
I wanted to make my own VFT media; but was told not to use silica sand. Are there different types of silica sand or what? Just wondering what you would use…..
I think the trick with sphagnum moss is water from the top no standing water so that the water does not become stagnant
This is how I water my nepenthes. I think lfsm works better with nepenthes as they don't like sitting in standing water. For flytraps though, especially when it's hot, top watering means you are probably going to be watering daily, which can become a bit tedious. But I do agree with you.
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub true sticking with peat for most but i like to experiment found the north Queensland sundews do well in sphagnum moss watering from above strange the water and light seems to be the most important factor with most of these guys starting growing nepenthes have them in orchid bark doing well but grow slow might switch to spag like you use , great channel sir and thank you
can you use live sphagnum moss?
Yes, I see many people grow them in live sphagnum moss. Sometimes, the moss even comes back to life after it's been dried. Some nurseries sell live sphagnum moss. I know California Carnivores sells it, if it's in stock. Check it out! If you use CPHUB at checkout, you also get an additional 10% off! www.californiacarnivores.com/collections?aff=7
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub thx
When long fiber sphagnum moss breaks down, isn't it just becoming...peat moss?
Kind of. I can't tell you the exact process for moss turning into peat, but when sphagnum breaks down it's definitely not quite in its peat form. The bigger problem is a pot full of sphagnum moss, when broken down, is only about a quarter full. The point of it being a con that it breaks down is that you have to repot it more often or add more moss disturbing the plant. It's not a deal breaker, it just doesn't last nearly as long as peat moss does.
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub Thank you! Appreciate your videos and best of luck for your endeavors!
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beginner grower here, when potting on your plants, why do you stip every single bit of the previous growing medium off? Can't I just pot on in a bigger pot, filling the extra space with new medium as needed?
That's a great question and I think it really depends. A lot of people like to strip them down every time they repot. This does tend to give the plant a little more repotting shock. The way I decide to remove all the substrate or not is whether or not I trust the previous grower. If I buy one from a big box store like Walmart or Lowes, I know they probably have been watering with tap water and the substrate may be sub par. There could even be unwanted pests, bacteria and mold. In those cases, I almost always strip them all the way down. If you buy from a reputable grower who uses high quality substrate and you can see there are no pests or unwanted mold, I don't see any problem keeping some of the old substrate on and just putting it in a bigger pot.
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub great answer, thank you very much :)
Can you just use peat moss alone
Peat alone tends to get really compact and hard. The perlite and sand are used to help keep the mixture loose to allow good air and water flow. You can probably use straight peat, but will want to repot more frequent due to how compact it gets over time.
I hear pete moss over sphag a lot how i personally have had nothing but mold trouble using pete moss??? And yes sphag does increase the growth speed, so when you say "frequent repotting," that means the roots are outgrowing the pot too fast???
I've had mold issues with both peat moss and sphagnum moss, it's almost always resolved by adding some extra air flow. Usually a small fan clears up any mold issues. More frequent repotting is actually due to the sphagnum moss breaking down much faster than peat moss. If you keep your peat moss healthy, you can keep it potted in the same peat moss for up to a few years at a time. Assuming the plant doesn't outgrow its pot. Sphagnum moss usually needs repotted once a year because it breaks down much quicker. Usually, you see a dip in the top of your planter after a year with the sphagnum moss, big enough to demand a repotting. But, your point about the plant growing faster would also be a reason that you have to repot more often! It's a good reason to have to repot though! Lol.
Are you going to start selling plants on your website?
Hopefully someday! I want to make sure I can sustain plants longer term here before I offer to sell them. I never want to sell plants that aren't 100% healthy. So, I'm still working on perfecting this craft in the environment that I'm in. Once I do that, I will definitely start selling! My goal is to sell, but right now I'm just learning and soaking up all the info!
I only know how to grow in LFS......
That's okay! LFSM works great!
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub when repotting, if roots are entangled in the LFS, why not just leave some of it?
I guess it just depends on what you believe with existing substrate. Some people like to remove all of it to make sure the roots get contact with fresh substrate. Sometimes old substrate can collect bacteria over time and not be great for your plant. It can also collect minerals and and other harmful stuff over time. Personally, I prefer to leave some over harming the roots, but some people like to get rid of all the old substrate.
I need to get bone of my enemies. Sound best soli and pot for my sundews
It's not a necessary component of the substrate, but will definitely increase growth.
😂 (bones of my enemies)
We found another long story
It's hit and miss. I think it mostly depends on the batch, but also when you found them. If you find them right off the truck, they are often in great shape!