I replaced my tks carb with and electric what is the best way to start my boat i find I have to crank it quiet a bit and play with the throttle to gets it going as the choke is fully closed but don't want to mess up my points . Is is juts leaving the key in the on position that is bad . Is it ok to crank it then turn to off position crank then back to off
Excuse me but I have to call out shit when I see it. Do you have any idea what a choke is supposed to do on an engine you are completely defeating the action of the choke by leaving the key on for 2 minutes the choke is designed to do exactly what it's doing and stays shut when starting a cold engine to restrict airflow through the carburetor and cause the engine to run rich until it warms up. Not being there I have no idea whether or not your choke is the adjusted properly in this video but it appears to be doing exactly what it was designed to do until you defeat it by leaving the key on. If you're having issues starting that particular engine the first place I would start is with a carburetor rebuild then a compression check and last check the timing.
That valve is the choke it is supposed to be closed during a cold start. If you find that it wont start cold unless the choke is open... adjust the choke so there is less spring pressure when cold. Typ boats are only started on hot days so not much choke is needed.
How it can start without any air? This engine never started with the closed valve. I spent 2 months in problems before figured out this feature of the engine. That is why i show it here.
@@RUS_US at idle it needs very little air if you look down the carb when the choke is off you will see another set of valves also known as the throttle blades that are closed until you throttle up. The choke does limit the air but more so it creates vacume to increase fule when the motor is cold and cant atomize the fuel well.
@@bobg4654 are you sure that you talking about exactly this carb? My engine did not have a choke or any other air inlets. There is even instruction on the carb filter to wait 1-2min before start. You can read it on the video
@@RUS_US all carbs work on the same principle. Older carbs like your and mine (TKO 2 barrel) work with choke plates. The next generation of carbs work with a IAC valve or some sort of enrichment device. The round part that gets warm you see the white lines on the top? Those are there to help you set the choke. Back off the 2 screws and you can twist the gold looking part in the middle to add more or take away spring pressure.
@@bobg4654 right. The spring can be adjusted to keep it open. it was closed in cold when i bought the boat. And once i realize the situation i decided to keep it close because FL insects and spiders would create a nest in the carb if it is open. I believe this was designers rationale why it should be closed in cold.
Nice video but if you have points and a distributor and the points happened to be closed while key is on, the power wire to the coil will get extremely hot quickly because the points are going to ground. Noticed this when I tried this. The power wire became "nuclear" and almost caused a fire. I would recommend making adjustments to that choke setting to make it run leaner if you need it more open. for the record, there's nothing wrong with my coil, distributor, etc but just pointing out if those points happen to be closed when you Key On, that's what's going to happen. The points collapse to ground momentarily during a cycle and as they open, power is supplied to the condensor which will make your spark jump when the points open. There's a video that explains all this but I'd recommend NOT keeping key on more than 4 or 5 seconds or that 12V wire to the left side of the coil is going to get hot really fast if the points are closed.
thank you. sound like a rocket science. could you share link to the video? i was thinking that to heat up the spiral opening the valve was a design goal. You mention that another wire can get toasted because of this? sounds like malfunction. Like i am going to start a car but i should not keep the key on more than 5 seconds to not burn a wire.
I replaced my tks carb with and electric what is the best way to start my boat i find I have to crank it quiet a bit and play with the throttle to gets it going as the choke is fully closed but don't want to mess up my points . Is is juts leaving the key in the on position that is bad . Is it ok to crank it then turn to off position crank then back to off
@@TheCommo81 ok so I don't have points I guess it's the est ignition . So is it ok to turn the key to the on position for like 20 seconds or so to open the choke a bit so it starts up easy I have the annoying alarm with the key in on position but I can deal with that
@@bryandempsey5341 instead of doing that you can unscrew the 3 screws holding the choke element and turn it leaner. There should be notches on the housing and a line on the element. Just turn it 1/2 or 1 mark. If theres no line on element then scribe one on. The upgraded electronic ignition for distributors have a hall switch which is magnetic and can still short out if closed when you turn on the ignition.
ATTENTION ALL VIEWERS DON"T DO THIS FOLLOW THIS PROCEDURE TO START!!!!!!! PER THE OWNERS MANUAL AND MERCRUISER: 1. Vent engine with blower motor for up to 4 min to vent any fuel vapor in the engine/bilge area. 2. When the engine hasn't been started and is "cold" try 1-2 throttle only priming pumps. 3. Then position the throttle about 1/4 forward in throttle only mode and turn key to start. 4. When it starts it will slightly rev up. Pull back throttle quickly to just forward of neutral in throttle only mode. 5. If it doesn't start pump the throttle again in throttle only while engine off of course. It may require multiple priming throttle pumps to start. But start 1 at a time maybe 2 at first as you do not want to flood your engine. You need the choke to help the engine start. Just follow these directions next time. If you have running issues it may be a dirty carb, but use the mercruiser start up process.
@@RUS_US It is not whatever works, the choke will create a rich situation and speed up the idle which is what you need on starting. There is the right way and then everything else. Some of the everything else can slowly wear out your engine and parts. This engine has been around since the late 60's it works very well the way it is designed. Don't try and change it, just follow the normal start up procedure. Your engine will love you for it!
@@RUS_US Upvote for DON'T DO THIS! Complex? Doesn't matter..... @goflylow is 100% correct. It's called an electric choke. Before electric chokes, some engine used heat from the exhaust manifold routed up a tube to slowly reduce choke as the engine warmed up. AFTER it was started, not before.... I understand you're trying to help people, but this is not the proper method to start a cold, carbureted engine. Before trying to educate people, I recommend you fully understand what you're teaching. Gasoline vapors will only combust if correct amount of air(and heat) is present to allow it to ignite. The mixture ratio is the key. Try lighting a puddle of gas with a cigarette, it will never "work" unless conditions are perfect. What you did "worked" because your carburetor is not adjusted correctly. Specifically your air/fuel ratio (idle mixture) is clearly too rich so it needed additional air for the ratio to be correct for cold starting. This air is normally restricted(choked), on purpose, during a cold start, hence the name "Choke". Here's a link to a well explained video for everyone on how to properly adjust this carburetor. ua-cam.com/video/6tLeTT4rNSI/v-deo.htmlsi=NvWP9xeYXlbB7Wi4
You know that is an auto choke. It is meant to be mostly closed on cold start to help it start easier. If you have starting issues your carb or fuel delivery is having issues. What you are doing is basically canceling the choke process. That will not help. That is why your boat sounded like it wanted to stall when you started it at the end of the video.... Carbs and chokes go hand in hand. USE THE CHOKE PEOPLE! Don't flood your engine priming it and it will start. Get your carb cleaned if it is running funny.
I'm so sorry. I cannot imagine waiting 2 minutes for my automatic choke to warm up. If you push the throttle the flap will open some, then you can back the throttle off as the engine starts so it does not rev like crazy. Also, my choke flap is held shut when I start with no issues
Do you mean it starts fine on land but not in water? Sound like your motor cooling water leaks inside of the piston. Might need to replace a gasket or patch hole in manifold.
@RUS_US it will start in water but doesn't want to idle. It will stall with out throttle being given to keep rpms up. As long as the throttle is on at all speeds other then idle speed.
reasons might be 1) no spark present 2) no gas 3) wrong gas vs air mixture. there are a lot of videos in youtube on how to diagnose it. my video shows the reason for item 3)
PER THE OWNERS MANUAL AND MERCRUISER: 1. Vent engine with blower motor for up to 4 min to vent any fuel vapor in the engine/bilge area. 2. When the engine hasn't been started and and "cold" try 1-2 throttle only priming pumps. 3. Then position the throttle about 1/4 forward in throttle only mode and turn key to start. 4. When it starts it will slightly rev up. Pull back throttle quickly to just forward of neutral in throttle only mode. 5. If it doesn't start pump the throttle again in throttle only while engine off of course. It may require multiple priming throttle pumps to start. But start 1 at a time maybe 2 at first as you do not want to flood your engine.
Sure it is possible ... but if you will decide to keep it open during parking then i would recommend to seal a carburetor intake by tarp to avoid dust/insects/debris come into the carburetor. I sure a lot of FL insects will make a nest inside and clog the carb.
good video. I have a 3.0 mercruiser inboard motor on my boat. it starts fine initially but if I pull a tube for a while and shut it off it doesn't want to start very easily for about half an hour after that. Would you know why this is? thanks !
i guess the spark plugs got wet by gas ... too much gas in the mixture. it takes time to get dry again (~30 min). Sometime to wait and do nothing is better that discharge a battery trying to start it. The faster way could be to unscrew the spark plugs and dry/clear them. Check gap for spark plugs too.
@@trevorfurgeson8149 I have the same problem on mine and we have narrowed it down to that gas is continuing to flow/drip inside the carb after it is shut down, giving the engine way too much fuel on next startup
Iv started doing this too. Sometimes i cant keep the motor going long enuf to get it in gear and get away from a dock. So i just turn the key on right before i back the trailer into the water. Seems to work way better that way. Recently iv advanced the choke. We'll see if that works too.
This is what actually written on carb air filter at the beginning of the video. Ignition timing 2minutes. I.e. it is design feature. But we all skip user manual 🤣. Some viewer pointed it to me.
@@RUS_US TKS carb. Most newer boats have this alarm. You simply can’t leave the key in the on position without the engine running, and not have the alarm going.
I have started from this method initially (used some tools instead of the finger). It requires to unscrew the flame arrester what takes a lot of time and not really possible in an emergency
it will not help without air. i.e. it is more complicated than just having flameable fluid. you need fluid + air. with carb valve closed there is no enough air. Unless you have starting fluid which has oxigen too. I doubt it exist. it might explode.
I replaced my tks carb with and electric what is the best way to start my boat i find I have to crank it quiet a bit and play with the throttle to gets it going as the choke is fully closed but don't want to mess up my points . Is is juts leaving the key in the on position that is bad . Is it ok to crank it then turn to off position crank then back to off
Excuse me but I have to call out shit when I see it. Do you have any idea what a choke is supposed to do on an engine you are completely defeating the action of the choke by leaving the key on for 2 minutes the choke is designed to do exactly what it's doing and stays shut when starting a cold engine to restrict airflow through the carburetor and cause the engine to run rich until it warms up. Not being there I have no idea whether or not your choke is the adjusted properly in this video but it appears to be doing exactly what it was designed to do until you defeat it by leaving the key on. If you're having issues starting that particular engine the first place I would start is with a carburetor rebuild then a compression check and last check the timing.
Choke ... right ... good idea ! ...sad that designers did not add it ... :D
That valve is the choke it is supposed to be closed during a cold start. If you find that it wont start cold unless the choke is open... adjust the choke so there is less spring pressure when cold. Typ boats are only started on hot days so not much choke is needed.
How it can start without any air? This engine never started with the closed valve. I spent 2 months in problems before figured out this feature of the engine. That is why i show it here.
@@RUS_US at idle it needs very little air if you look down the carb when the choke is off you will see another set of valves also known as the throttle blades that are closed until you throttle up. The choke does limit the air but more so it creates vacume to increase fule when the motor is cold and cant atomize the fuel well.
@@bobg4654 are you sure that you talking about exactly this carb? My engine did not have a choke or any other air inlets. There is even instruction on the carb filter to wait 1-2min before start. You can read it on the video
@@RUS_US all carbs work on the same principle. Older carbs like your and mine (TKO 2 barrel) work with choke plates. The next generation of carbs work with a IAC valve or some sort of enrichment device. The round part that gets warm you see the white lines on the top? Those are there to help you set the choke. Back off the 2 screws and you can twist the gold looking part in the middle to add more or take away spring pressure.
@@bobg4654 right. The spring can be adjusted to keep it open. it was closed in cold when i bought the boat. And once i realize the situation i decided to keep it close because FL insects and spiders would create a nest in the carb if it is open. I believe this was designers rationale why it should be closed in cold.
Nice video but if you have points and a distributor and the points happened to be closed while key is on, the power wire to the coil will get extremely hot quickly because the points are going to ground. Noticed this when I tried this. The power wire became "nuclear" and almost caused a fire. I would recommend making adjustments to that choke setting to make it run leaner if you need it more open. for the record, there's nothing wrong with my coil, distributor, etc but just pointing out if those points happen to be closed when you Key On, that's what's going to happen. The points collapse to ground momentarily during a cycle and as they open, power is supplied to the condensor which will make your spark jump when the points open. There's a video that explains all this but I'd recommend NOT keeping key on more than 4 or 5 seconds or that 12V wire to the left side of the coil is going to get hot really fast if the points are closed.
thank you. sound like a rocket science. could you share link to the video? i was thinking that to heat up the spiral opening the valve was a design goal. You mention that another wire can get toasted because of this? sounds like malfunction. Like i am going to start a car but i should not keep the key on more than 5 seconds to not burn a wire.
I replaced my tks carb with and electric what is the best way to start my boat i find I have to crank it quiet a bit and play with the throttle to gets it going as the choke is fully closed but don't want to mess up my points . Is is juts leaving the key in the on position that is bad . Is it ok to crank it then turn to off position crank then back to off
@@bryandempsey5341 if you are cranking the engine it would be fine. You just dont want to turn key on without cranking for more than a few seconds.
@@TheCommo81 ok so I don't have points I guess it's the est ignition . So is it ok to turn the key to the on position for like 20 seconds or so to open the choke a bit so it starts up easy I have the annoying alarm with the key in on position but I can deal with that
@@bryandempsey5341 instead of doing that you can unscrew the 3 screws holding the choke element and turn it leaner. There should be notches on the housing and a line on the element. Just turn it 1/2 or 1 mark. If theres no line on element then scribe one on. The upgraded electronic ignition for distributors have a hall switch which is magnetic and can still short out if closed when you turn on the ignition.
ATTENTION ALL VIEWERS DON"T DO THIS FOLLOW THIS PROCEDURE TO START!!!!!!!
PER THE OWNERS MANUAL AND MERCRUISER:
1. Vent engine with blower motor for up to 4 min to vent any fuel vapor in the engine/bilge area.
2. When the engine hasn't been started and is "cold" try 1-2 throttle only priming pumps.
3. Then position the throttle about 1/4 forward in throttle only mode and turn key to start.
4. When it starts it will slightly rev up. Pull back throttle quickly to just forward of neutral in throttle only mode.
5. If it doesn't start pump the throttle again in throttle only while engine off of course. It may require multiple priming throttle pumps to start. But start 1 at a time maybe 2 at first as you do not want to flood your engine.
You need the choke to help the engine start. Just follow these directions next time. If you have running issues it may be a dirty carb, but use the mercruiser start up process.
Thanks for the complex guide. Whatever if it works. What i did works too.
@@RUS_US It is not whatever works, the choke will create a rich situation and speed up the idle which is what you need on starting. There is the right way and then everything else. Some of the everything else can slowly wear out your engine and parts. This engine has been around since the late 60's it works very well the way it is designed. Don't try and change it, just follow the normal start up procedure. Your engine will love you for it!
@@RUS_US Upvote for DON'T DO THIS! Complex? Doesn't matter..... @goflylow is 100% correct. It's called an electric choke. Before electric chokes, some engine used heat from the exhaust manifold routed up a tube to slowly reduce choke as the engine warmed up. AFTER it was started, not before....
I understand you're trying to help people, but this is not the proper method to start a cold, carbureted engine. Before trying to educate people, I recommend you fully understand what you're teaching.
Gasoline vapors will only combust if correct amount of air(and heat) is present to allow it to ignite. The mixture ratio is the key. Try lighting a puddle of gas with a cigarette, it will never "work" unless conditions are perfect.
What you did "worked" because your carburetor is not adjusted correctly. Specifically your air/fuel ratio (idle mixture) is clearly too rich so it needed additional air for the ratio to be correct for cold starting. This air is normally restricted(choked), on purpose, during a cold start, hence the name "Choke".
Here's a link to a well explained video for everyone on how to properly adjust this carburetor.
ua-cam.com/video/6tLeTT4rNSI/v-deo.htmlsi=NvWP9xeYXlbB7Wi4
You know that is an auto choke. It is meant to be mostly closed on cold start to help it start easier. If you have starting issues your carb or fuel delivery is having issues. What you are doing is basically canceling the choke process. That will not help. That is why your boat sounded like it wanted to stall when you started it at the end of the video.... Carbs and chokes go hand in hand. USE THE CHOKE PEOPLE! Don't flood your engine priming it and it will start. Get your carb cleaned if it is running funny.
The problem is that not all knows about it. And there is no manual choke to fix it. As result people suffer, lose time and boat.
I'm so sorry. I cannot imagine waiting 2 minutes for my automatic choke to warm up. If you push the throttle the flap will open some, then you can back the throttle off as the engine starts so it does not rev like crazy.
Also, my choke flap is held shut when I start with no issues
playing with throttle did not give me a stable start. my motor was over flud by gas. you are lucky if you can manage this with your motor.
I have a question. Mine runs fine on muffs but as soon as its in water doesn't want ro idle. Dont shoot a rookie...
Runs fine everywhere else. Also if I park and shut of to go swimming it doesn't want to start without disengaged throttle and some gas applied.
Do you mean it starts fine on land but not in water? Sound like your motor cooling water leaks inside of the piston. Might need to replace a gasket or patch hole in manifold.
@RUS_US it will start in water but doesn't want to idle. It will stall with out throttle being given to keep rpms up. As long as the throttle is on at all speeds other then idle speed.
@RUS_US when I anchor for family to swim and it sits for awhile is when it won't start without throttle being given.
Hi how are you I have the same boat but my won’t start up can help me about
reasons might be 1) no spark present 2) no gas 3) wrong gas vs air mixture. there are a lot of videos in youtube on how to diagnose it. my video shows the reason for item 3)
PER THE OWNERS MANUAL AND MERCRUISER:
1. Vent engine with blower motor for up to 4 min to vent any fuel vapor in the engine/bilge area.
2. When the engine hasn't been started and and "cold" try 1-2 throttle only priming pumps.
3. Then position the throttle about 1/4 forward in throttle only mode and turn key to start.
4. When it starts it will slightly rev up. Pull back throttle quickly to just forward of neutral in throttle only mode.
5. If it doesn't start pump the throttle again in throttle only while engine off of course. It may require multiple priming throttle pumps to start. But start 1 at a time maybe 2 at first as you do not want to flood your engine.
That’s a choke flap, that’s suppose to be closed to help enrichen the engine on cold start up.
The problem is that it did not start with closed.
Can you fix this by adjusting the choke to open a little bit?
Sure it is possible ... but if you will decide to keep it open during parking then i would recommend to seal a carburetor intake by tarp to avoid dust/insects/debris come into the carburetor. I sure a lot of FL insects will make a nest inside and clog the carb.
Can you make a video on how to properly adjust the carb? Mine dies in Neutral
Can you force it open with screwdriver like we used to with our cars back in the day?
sure. but you will have to remove the flame arrestor what is illegal and dangerous
good video. I have a 3.0 mercruiser inboard motor on my boat. it starts fine initially but if I pull a tube for a while and shut it off it doesn't want to start very easily for about half an hour after that. Would you know why this is? thanks !
i guess the spark plugs got wet by gas ... too much gas in the mixture. it takes time to get dry again (~30 min). Sometime to wait and do nothing is better that discharge a battery trying to start it. The faster way could be to unscrew the spark plugs and dry/clear them. Check gap for spark plugs too.
awesome thanks for the advice!
@@trevorfurgeson8149 I have the same problem on mine and we have narrowed it down to that gas is continuing to flow/drip inside the carb after it is shut down, giving the engine way too much fuel on next startup
Iv started doing this too. Sometimes i cant keep the motor going long enuf to get it in gear and get away from a dock. So i just turn the key on right before i back the trailer into the water. Seems to work way better that way. Recently iv advanced the choke. We'll see if that works too.
So you have to turn on ignition then wait 2 minutes every time befor trying to start. Not likely.
This is what actually written on carb air filter at the beginning of the video. Ignition timing 2minutes. I.e. it is design feature. But we all skip user manual 🤣. Some viewer pointed it to me.
This won’t work on a newer TKS system. Leaving the key in that “on” position, would leave an annoying alarm sound going the whole time.
With Carburator? What about the valve?Is it fully closed in off position?
@@RUS_US TKS carb. Most newer boats have this alarm. You simply can’t leave the key in the on position without the engine running, and not have the alarm going.
Whats the part name
Carburator?
It's under your flame arrestor. That big circle thing with screen mesh around the edges
Strange that on the specs stands 2' ATDC.. I just did timing at 2' BTDC.. that's on my spec
interesting. thanks for sharing. i did not have spec by that time. All i knew was internet forums and own guessing.
Ruslan B you had... on the cover 😉
@@mrKramble :D
points fried? damn
I'd you're sinking just push the valve open with your finger?
I have started from this method initially (used some tools instead of the finger). It requires to unscrew the flame arrester what takes a lot of time and not really possible in an emergency
If he has points there shot now
UUMM,.....WHY NOT KEEP SOME STARTER FLUID IN YOUR BOAT .....SO YOU CAN JUST SPARY AND GO IN 5 SECONDS ?!?!?!..... OOH, I FORGOT THAT'S TOO EASY!!
it will not help without air. i.e. it is more complicated than just having flameable fluid. you need fluid + air. with carb valve closed there is no enough air. Unless you have starting fluid which has oxigen too. I doubt it exist. it might explode.