The Ultimate Edelbrock Carburetor Tuning Guide
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- Опубліковано 2 лип 2024
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This guide is full of tips and tricks on how to get the most out of your Edelbrock carb! I’ll show you all the little things you can do to make sure you have the right situation so your tuning process goes the way its supposed to! From start to finish, this video is one of my most informative with tons of details on how to tune an Edelbrock carburetor! From system set up, how to use the tuning chart that’s included with your carb and much more!
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Great video! Very informative!
Super helpful video! You made absolute sense out of the jet and needle chart which confused me until I saw your video. THANK YOU!!
Man...THANKS!!!!
You have delivered a super informative well filmed session again. I've the way you explain these things.
This is by far the best explanation I've seen on how to adjust an eddy carb. Thank you!!!
You bet, very useful, thanks for chairing 👍🏻
I always thought my car ran pretty good and then I stumbled upon this video and realize that my vacuum advance was on the wrong port, what a difference thank you very much.
Nice! Glad it helped. Tuning is a process. Keep working the process and it’s always amazing how good an old carburetor will run.
very informative. I finally understand in plain english the tuning chart. I have had number of people explain this to me but couldn't understand it until now. thanks Muscle car solutions.
Good deal! I’m glad it was well received. I’ve worked on these carbs since I bought my first one in 1989. I still use that chart every single time I tune one. Extremely valuable!
The AFB is the easiest carb to tune I've ever had in terms of an American carb. With their Strip Kit and the charts it is super simple. The only carb I've ever found that is easier to dial in are Webers. I had 42DCOE side drafts on a Chevy I had and, with beer in hand, I found them to be super.
Thanks this video has some very good info. I found lowering the fuel pressure to 3lbs. Helped the hot restart issue as well. Doesn't seem to creep as far up after shut down. The ethanol fuel is causing a lot of problems. For those of us running carbs these days.
@@MuscleCarSolutions OK.. I think I will give that a try if I continue to have heat soak problems. Summer is coming and it gets pretty hot here in florida. I'm running the shorter edelbrock spacer 3/8" for the EPS manifold. I have plenty of hood clearance still. Thanks.
A 1 inch spacer should help. I run them on everything.
This video is awesome! Thanks
This was a great, informative video. Thanks!
I’m glad you liked it. I’ve also broken down each topic with a separate video of you want more info. They’re all in my Edelbrock Carb Tech playlist.
Sir I love the idea of 2 fuel filters this way everything is protected.
Especially for those of us running original gas tanks on forty year old vehicles.
Great video, nice and straight forward!
Thanks!
Sir, First off, thank you for taking the time to help others... We appreciate you sharing your knowledge and experience. I have a 1992 Dodge D250 pickup w/360 (LA, not magnum) engine. It originally came with TBI, and ran pretty well until one day Pfffft. No power to coil or EFI. Literally replaced everything including the computer twice, still nothing. I purchased one of the Jegs HEI distributors (to fit a Dodge), an Edelbrock Performer intake, and at first a Holley 1460 Carb. Holly just pumped gas into the cylinders, and it chugged. Never could make it run right...
I am using the stock in-tank fuel pump, going through a filter, a bypass regulator (5psi) , another filter, and then one of those "dial-style" deadhead regulators (just to be sure) before the carb. A buddy gave me a Carter/Edelbrock 9635S 4bbl, (600cfm) which I promptly put a kit into, and the truck is extremely happy. I did have to remove the vacuum advance off the dist. because it would hit the intake or the firewall. I "locked down" the timing slider inside the dist, but it still has centrifugal advance intact. With the Eddy/Carter carb, I can get a really nice idle, but it's a little too low (little under 500 RPM). If I attempt to raise it, it suddenly starts sputtering like it's running on about 4-5 cyl. Same thing happens if you lightly rest your foot on the gas pedal. just a little more throttle, and it's back to smooth, and accelerates quickly. Likewise if slowing down, slight pedal pressure (or being between 550-850 RPM) causes this sputtering miss, then it gets down into the idle circuit and smoothes out, but at really low RPM's.
The engine is bone stock, with 160,000 miles, Automatic trans, and runs like a scared rabbit with the Edelbrock 4bbl, except for that blasted stutter just above idle. If I could just get it to idle up a little more and to stop that stuttering, It would be running perfect. Am I going to have to find a way to re-install the vacuum advance, or is there something that I am missing? Going down the highway, it purrs... and is 3-4 times more responsive now, than it ever was when it was TBI. Gonna need to do some mods to get my speedometer and overdrive to work again, as they were controlled by the ECU, but that sputtering drives me nuts! Thoughts?
@@MuscleCarSolutions Yes, I did use an Edelbrock kit on it. Strange thing, last night I was going to visit a friend in a rural area... when I got onto his road (straight and flat) I put all 270 foot pounds into the pedal and let 'er howl up to about 80-ish MPH (according to phone app) and it now idles at about 750-800 and no sputter! I will have to figure out a way to make the vacuum advance fit in the limited space I have. I figured the mechanical advance would be ok, but if the vacuum will make a difference... I'll massage the firewall a bit.
Latest update: truck still runs perfect, and am getting 12mpg (used to get 8...) now! I've decided I'm not touching a thing on it. (except to add an overdrive enable switch)
Nice! Well glad it’s running well. Keep those filters clean and you’ll get lots of good miles on it!
Hey bro thanks alot amazing explanation, i appreciate...
Thank you for your amazing content!!!
Thank you. Not sure why Edelbrock stopped putting this tuning chart in the installation manual. It was frustrating just finding it on their website. Need to use a PC, not a phone. This solves alot of issues and shame on Edelbrock for removing this out of their manual. Thanks for the video
Bought mine at summit racing and I got a bunch of Manuels 2yrsvback
Great info thanks
I installed edelbrock wood spacer and fuel pressure regulator like the video suggested. Now my chevelle runs better. Great video !!
Nice! Good work!
Great video, very helpful in understanding the chart. What should the timing be on the 454 I have, the vacuum advance is plugged at the distributor and both caps on the carb
Bone Head , I think it’s a regular gm distributor when the motor was put in they said I didn’t need the vacuum advance part. Coil pack on top of distributor. I didn’t know if I needed that to be hooked up .
Great video! Thank you
Great video thank you.
I very much enjoyed your information, just got an old plymouth with 318 with edelbrock 1405 ( and year built carb 0462 how do I read what year this is
This is a fantastic video that I’ve been looking for. Tomorrow morning I go pick up my 1408 or 1480? Edelbrock tuning kit. I had no idea where to start now I do thank you very much. I put a new 383 ( with bigger cam and roller set up)in my Mopar and I got a terrible stumble off the line. I can’t even put it in gear unless it’s almost 1200 RPMs at idle without it dying. I will be referring back to your video and I will hope that my kit comes with that book. If not I will download the PDF as you said. Thanks again for the great video sir
Well you’ve got some work ahead of you but the good news is with some patience and a little understanding, you’ll be able to get it running and driving much better. Don’t hesitate to ask any questions if you get stuck. Happy to help if I can.
I’ve got a ton of Edelbrock carb videos and fuel system set up in a playlist. You might find some of those useful too. Good luck!
@@MuscleCarSolutions I will definitely check the other videos out👍🏻 thanks for the reply
Resurrecting this masterpiece. Ive assembled a new 400 with higher compression and a mild (276) cam, as well as this AVS2 carb. What would you recommend as a starting point to ensure I can fire up and break in my cam right away and not wipe anything dry trying to fire it up the first time?
*edited for typo
Thanks for the info🙂
Perfect info
Thanks man for helping me on the Facebook group. You the man
Awesome! You’re very welcome!
I live in Loveland Colorado whereabouts should my Jets be setted for a 600 CFM Edelbrock running into tunnel ram running into stock 350
Thanks for a video. I have a Triumph TR8 with an Edelbrock carb (replacing the OEM cross-ram dual Zenith Strombergs). My carb experience is with other British cars with SU and Zenith Strombergs, and despite dreaming of muscle cars in my youth, this is my first car with an American style 4 bbl.
I have been struggling with the car since I bought it last year. I came with no choke installed (manual linkage on the carb, but no cable installed), so cold starts have been a SOB. Once it does start, it runs pretty good, although it run super-lean during cruising. The previous owner installed a AFR gauge which is show the rating well in the 16:1 range (or higher) at speed. The temp gauge will also creep up almost to the point of over-heating. Oddly enough, in stop and go traffic with the engine idling, it richens up (13:1 or so) and the temp gauge is perfectly normal.
While watching the video, I paused it and went to look at the vacuum ports. Passenger side - capped. Driver side - open (with the vacuum hose to the distributor disconnected. The large center port - also open. Rear port - plugged (the power brakes are connected to a port on the manifold). Something tells me that completely open center port would represent a large vacuum leak? I know from my years fiddling with SUs and Z-Ss, vacuum leaks are the bane of carburetors. I swapped the distributor line to the passenger side port, moved the small cap and capped the large port.
I bought a tuning kit, but now I'm wondering if I really needed it... unfortunately, my interior is apart (fixing more previous owner "mods"), so it'll be a day or so before I can start the car and see if the capped ports makes a difference.
I wonder if a phenolic plate between the carb and the manifold might help, but unfortunately the space under the hood of a TR8 is tight.
You’ve made the right choices and corrected some horrible issues with the vacuum leak in that PCV port up front! Yes, you absolutely need the tuning kit. You have a great advantage there with the AFR to help you tune once you get ready. Yes a block for the heat transfer is important. There is a link in the video description of the narrowest spacer that Edelbrock makes. If you can use it, anything helps!
Thanks, I'll take a look at the spacer. I also need to check the timing and advance are correct.
It's funny - a common saying from working on old British (and Swedish) cars is "90% of carburetor problems are ignition related." Especially since many of these cars are still running points distributors.
@@ianfurqueron5850 that’s a statement that proves itself true over and over again! Good luck, and if you run into any issues don’t hesitate to let me know. Always happy to help if I can.
Fantastic video thanks for the advice. Im starting this journey on a 75 f100 with a mild cam 460. So far ive determined its an old edelbrock 600cfm but i got ignition maintenance to get sorted out first.
Yup. If you get the supporting systems right first (ignition and fuel supply), tuning becomes very easy. Good luck! Don’t hesitate to ask any questions along the way. Happy to help where o can.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Thank you.
And also what do you mean about the set-up spring to control the transition between cruise and power, thanks
Stock 1413 (800cfm) on 454 BBC mild cam street car with a T350 automatic transmission. Incoming fuel pressure is 6.5 ish. Ran perfectly for last 5 years accross all throttle positions/weather conditions. Recently, (warming in Northern CA) I get a hesitation from a standing stop to full power (iow punching off the line), but it does go for just a second before the hesitation. Then after the hesitation, everything is fine. From cruise to full throttle no problem. So it's just a hesitation from standing stop to full power, but the hesitation doesn't hit until about a second off the line. Carb looks clean generally and I've never adjusted a thing because it has worked perfectly up to now. Thoughts? Educated guess? I appreciate anyone's input. Cool video!!
Ah these conversations always hurt my feelings. 😂 Imagine how much better it will run when you tune it! What’s your engine vacuum at idle? Match the step up spring to it. Then you can adjust from there to remove any hesitation. What is your initial timing set to? When does fill advance come on and what is it? The pressure is on the high side. Just be aware of that if you start having issues. I’d start there and you can work through the tuning process to really get it dialed in. You’ll be surprised what you put up with as “normal” once it’s been tuned for your application.
Will this eddlebrock tuning guide work on a Rochester? I've noticed the the numbers kind of match on jets. Rods I can't remember. It has been years since I worked on a carburetor. I'm thinking of a EFI conversion to a carburetor set up.
i have a 93 dodge Dakota with the 318 it's fule injection now how can i get more horsepower out of fule injection if i switch over to carboraitor i was told go with the holly 600cfm 4bbl electric choke and the air gap intake and a return line fule pump regulator the transmission is ran by the computer can i keep the transmission
i learned a lot today. thank you sir.
Nice! Thank you! I have since broken down this video into a few others to expand on the individual segments of it. If you want a little more info, they are all in my Edelbrock carb tech playlist.
@@MuscleCarSolutions ok, thank you.
Thank you for your video. I have a SBC 383 Stroker. I'm also running a pair of Edelbrock 600 CFM carbs on top of a Weiand 671 blower. Right now my tuner has 62 jets in the front (primary) of both carburetors and 72s jets in the back (secondary) of both. We have the metering rods out but we left the plungers in. Timing is set at 27 degrees advanced. What is your opinion on this setup, have you ever heard of a setup like this. Just would like this hear your feedback if possible. Thank you,. Jr.
I am running dual avs 500s on small block ford and tunnel ram. Would love some more info on a side chat.
put a 10 micron fuel filter before the mechanical fuel pump to keep sediment out of the fuel pump check valves.. 1984 corvette fuel filters are 10 micron.. when sediment gets in the check valves the fuel pressure held by the pump in the line to the carb is reduced. this reduction in fuel pressure allows the fuel in the line to the carb to boil.. the expanding vapor pushes liquid fuel backward thru the fuel pump.. .leaving the carb low on fuel. this reduces fuel boil over and hard to start engines because they are flooded.. when the sediment in the fuel pump gets thru to the needle and seat.. it can when the fuel level is reduces allow fuel vapor to expand and overflow the carb..
if you have an off idle stumble with an edelbrock.. cold engine count the fractions of turns to lightly seat the idle mixture screws.. take them out.. with a can of carb cleaner.. blast a 1 second spray down the idle mixture screw hole... 1 SECOND.. followed instantly by a blast of compressed air. do this 2 or 3 times for each idle mixture screw hole.. this blows sediment out of the idle feed restriction and the idle air bleed. in the primary booster assembly.
if you have flat spots and you are running an engine over 360 cubic inches.. and especially over 400 cubic inches.. you may have to use a 61 to 80 drill set and one size at a time drill the idle feed restrictions in the side of the primary booster assemblies. its behind the idle air bleed on the side. you want to take the top off the carb.. then take the primary boosters out.. 2 screws. figure out what size the second part of the passage is. go up 0.001 .. reassemble and test drive .. you will need to readjust the idle mixture. the idle speed then test drive. if you get a flat spot at around 1000 or 200 above base idle.. or up to about 2200 RPMs before the primary circuits take over completely.. keep drilling 0.001 at a time. look up Low speed circuit.. look up idle transition circuit.. look up economizer circuit. edelbrock and holley removed this info from the carb manuals to allow the carb tuners something to work with. .
I'm very new to figuring out how to set up/ tune my edelbrock carb. I sont believe me secondaries are opening. When looking down the carb and going from idle to about 5500rpm I dont see them opening. Is this right? How can I fix this ?
Awesome!!
Hey watch your videos all the time. Love them thank you very much.
Quick question, I have a 1406 Elderbrock carb, I was told to tune it using the 1405 chart, possibly on #1 setting or even #2 or #9, which take the .100 jet and .068x.042 rod or .070x.047 rod etc to get better performance out of it for my 70 Nova. (350 5.7 Vortec, high rise intake, long tube headers, roller cam)
And the #1468 accelerator pump as well. I'm about to rebuild my elderbrock carburetor soon and I've been reading up and re-watching a lot of your videos.
Thx for any tips are help, you're awesome 👌
On a cammed 350.chevy with a tunnel.ram.what should the primary jets be ? Should the springs be lighter if the cam is large ?
I used to be (lol) pretty good with Quadrajet carb tuning. Using a lambda meter I could get them to run like fuel injection. I have since placed my focus on tuning fuel injection. Kind of ironic. My question is I am helping a gentleman tune his newly installed Edelbrock carb. Same one you have featured here. We have no idea of the cam in the car. From my experience and the way the car is setup (all out drag setup), I assume the cam is a "bottom of the page" cam. Either way it is very radical. Lots of overlap. I am trying to control the idle. In gear the car wants to stall. If it were a Quadrajet I would simply start with drilling a small hole in the throttle blade to help keep the blade in the area of the transfer port. I have a feeling with the idle screw set so high it is feeding off of the main jets too much. The idle screws are doing squat. Is it advisable or OK to make the same modification of drilling the throttle blades with this carb. Thanks for a great explanation. I subscribed.
I’m about to install a 1406 carburetor to a stock 327 engine hope don’t run into a lot of trouble. Great video will help me a lot
Definitely will take your advice about putting two filter. Thank you
Bone Head can you recommend me one in particular
It's a great explanation! I have an Edelbrock 14053 on a Ford 302 and I couldn't remove all jets, they stuck and broke down inside of it. Did you face any issue like this?
@@MuscleCarSolutions How do you drain the carb. do you take it off of the motor or do you have a trick?
Thank you!
You’re welcome!
Hey I just put my create 5.8 in with a 1406 Edelbrock. Now I know it's really set for economy. But I ordered rods and springs. Your videos have show alot. But I'm getting a feel for my next step. I thought I had it tuned pretty good but iv got this stumble in each drive and idle that I'm trying to work out.
Yup. Keep tuning. You’ve got the tuning kit and that’s a great start. Make some changes to the accelerator pump. I did a video on that. Adjust fuel pressure. Did a video on that as well. Keep working with your timing as you make adjustments that get you good results. You’re a little limited with the older performer series carb on the secondary side, but you still have lots of tuning points to get it dialed in. As long as the cam profile isn’t too wild, and what you’re using it for, you’re on the right track.
Thank you.
Damn I needed this I just put a 2 inch Spacer on my engine and now it seems to lean out way to much around 4000 rpm and my shit point is at 4500 just ordered a complete kit from speedway
Idk it seems everytime I hook one of these 1406 carbs up every one of them fall on thier face as soon as I hit the gas. Ive always heard its the accel pump but none of the 3 hole adjustments ever seem to cure the problem. Ive got to get this fixed its very hazardous pulling out in traffic and hit the gas and engine wants to die and your fethering it trying to get the gas flowing to go. I dont consider myself a pro at tuning but its an old chevy C10 350 and always have to put starting fluid in it to get it first started but after that it cranks right up. It does have vac adv but I capped it off and the ports in the front. A guy adjusted the timing for me up some and told me a long time ago it would run better without all that hooked up and it did at the time. But like I said this isnt the first time I had an old ford that would lay down too as soon as you hit the gas. Any suggestions.
just baught a brand new one the four barrels will not open unless i open them by hand......
I hate that sob and am ready to put my quadra jet back one any tips?
great stuff, I have a new 1406 Edelbrock on a 72 K1500V8, 350, 5.7 etc. manual choke cable and have recently moved from sea level to above 9200 feet. today for the first time it would not start and drained a battery trying. before I start over, my question is: does the high altitude affect the cold starts?
It affects every operation on a carb. Absolutely. Higher elevation means less oxygen. You’ve got some tuning to do!
I am trying to cure a slight stumble off idle. Open it runs really well. Idle can be slightly rough after I adjusted mixture so that is better. Timing is on. The just off idle is not smooth into power.
Have you made any adjustments to the accelerator pump to verify if you need more fuel or less?
Looking for some help. Have the edelbrock 1411 sitting on a weiand 6521-1 supercharger. 454 bbc. Having trouble getting this this tuned. Supercharger is at 6psi boost. Since this carb has no power valves it will work on a supercharger is my assumption. But I’m probably wrong. Stalls and dies, high idle, any input is helpful. Thanks!
My truck surges when driving. I'm running a 600 4bbl edelbrock. What do you think it is. It feels like it runs strong then skips on and off running on all 8.
Great video, I just finished building a first gen 350. I have it in a run stand and as a project want to learn my edelbrock carb and how to make it right. I assure you that you will be hearing from me with questions. Can you tell me the best way to communicate with you. Thank you
Best of luck! They’re actually very easy to tune and work on. I’ve got a whole playlist of Edelbrock carburetor content. Just drop any questions in the video you’re watching. If I get the notification, I’ll respond.
I was very tempted to get the AV2 carb, until my tuner shop recommended against it for the carb boiling issues. Did some searching and came up with a Edelbrock tech page addressing this. Now you mention it as well. Now, I'm wondering just how big of a problem this is. Maybe this isn't the right choice for my iron manifold application.
The techs argument was the Edelbrock places it’s fuel bowl directly over the carb flange whereas the Holley places it’s bowl off to the side. The Holley has more separation from the flange so there is a longer thermal path and the Holley has more surface area of help remove the heat from the bowls. His argument does seem to have some merit. Personally, I’m liking the carb because I don’t have to dump fuel every time I change a jet and it’s supposed to hold its tune better.
You forgot to mention not only pressure but volume of fuel as well. Especially if you lower your float level. I had an issue where the pressure of the stock mec pump was fine under normal conditions, but there was not enough fuel volume when under WOT. I added a booster pump, or you can just eliminate the mech pump. Personally I like redundant fuel pumps. And you dont need to install a return.
This was on a Pontiac 409 w/ 068 tri power cam and Edelbrock 750.
Mark Estrada absolutely flow is critical. I mentioned in a recent video that’s why I run Aeromotive pumps, filters and regulators. They flow well across the pressure ranges in all instances. There’s only so much you can put in a 16 minute video. High level basics on this video. Everything in steps.
Wish there was a guide like this for tuning a 1405 on a huge cam Chevy 348
I found that when the ambient temperature was between 0-30 degrees (f) my 350 sbc ran great throughout the rev range. Now that it’s 60 degrees (f), at around 2000 rpm the engine backfires out the exhaust and sounds like gunshots. Thoughts? All ignition components were changed in the last 2k miles
Bone Head I’ve got an hei distributor. I’m starting to suspect the vacuum advance diaphragm may be failing due to the engine falling on its face above 2500. Also takes more pump shots to start than it used to
Why don't my secondary open on carburator it's on 350 with big cam any suggestions
i got 1990 k5 blazer 5.7 had it rebuild with a few up grades everything is pretty mush stock i up graded the cam to a howard cam rattler lift 225/230 duration 0.50/227/235 centerline 03 i still have the factory swirl port heads i got headers 3' pipes all the way back i up graded my torque converter to 2000 to 2400 stall and 4:10 gears i just put my engine in about a week ago it was a tbi so i converted it to carb...im having problem trying to get it to run right i put a brandnew edelbrock carb 1406 on it..i got 12-887 holley regulator set it to 6 psi i got it to run starts up good but its backfiring and popping out my exhaust ..i have a vacuum port on my regulator but did not hook it up dont no if thats the problem or not..or is the carb to small for my set up...you can smell the burning and the raw gas in park when u accelerate and give it more gas it sound good but at idling its popping and backfiring like someome popping fire crackers..tell me what you think
I got a 95 f150 with 5.8 motor will automatic transmission, do u think that it will work will my transmission that carburetor works.
Great video!! I have a couple questions. I have a 38 Ford 2 door coupe with a 327 SBC and an Edelbrock AVS2 650. Since I got the car about 4 months ago. I bought the AVS carb, HEI distributor, spark plugs and spark plug wires, new standard fuel filter set up. I also have an in tank fuel pump, but want to change it as it is leaking at the gasket every time I fill it with gas and smells through the trunk. I have a slight hesitation at cruising speed. If holding a speed above idle it will slightly hesitate (not every time) until I accelerate some more. I bought the calibration kit and was hoping to send you a photo of the chart to make sure I am reading it right. So questions..any thoughts of what is causing the hesitation? Also, I am planning to use your suggestions on filter set up. Can you recommend Micron filters and a regulator. I am thinking of eliminating the in tank pump and going with an in-line pump. Any recommendations on a fuel pump. Not sure if I can send the calibration chart via photo on FB. Do you have an email that you would share?? Thanks!
I know the tranny is a turbo 350, all I now about the cam is whats on the original build list from the late 90's that it's "aggressive", balanced/bored 40 over, and a Holley high rise aluminum manifold, I don't now the compression ... I can check with the mechanic who has helped with the upgrades? I have the calibration chart and if I'm reading it correctly the closest reference number moving to the right and up in "Rich in Cruise Mode" is "11" #1430 jet and #1455" Metering Rod. Just not sure if that's how I should be reading the chart though? Thanks for your help!
In tuning my engine timing, carb etc I cant get vacuum level any higher than 16 when (as I understand) 18 is a target minimum. My engine builder is telling me the problem is in carb set up. Can you provide a direction for me to explore? Fyi the camshaft is not a stock grind but is very mild. It is a 350 chevy with stock heads cr is +/- 9. The engine starts well and idles ok. It throttles up and down nicely also. I feel she's holding back under load but not hesitating or pinging. Im not carb savvy at all but really do want to get there! Please help. Thanks!
I have a Carter AFB 650. It is rather new and has not been used. It has been sitting since October 23.
My problem is i just installed a new small block in a 1970 chevelle. And i got the car to run. It takes about a dousen times to turn over before it fires up and runs. There is a POPING noise comming from the exhaust pipe. I believe its comming from thec passenger side pipe. Is that a carburetor issue? How do i handle this issue?Is the poping noise a symptom of the car running rich?
I set the timing @ degrees and the total timing is at 32 degrees at 3500 RPM with the vacuum advanced disconnected.
Just wondering, I always hear make sure timing is right. Well how do I know that? Im at 7000 feet elevation and my engine will not under any circumstances run correctly at factory timing specs. So carb is rich....duh 7000 ft. Plugs black with carbon so can't read them for timing. Suggestions? Right now I'm at 22 deg BTDC at idle in N and in Park. 38 deg advanced at wot with 12 deg vac advance. Is that close enough to be "right"
Im setting carb idle speed per the "square" transition slot and adjusting timing to get needed RPM at idle. Is that correct?
Black sparks plugs & poor gas mileage mean too rich...use the chart to change metering rods only? Or would a change in Jet size too be needed?
A great video indeed! I am about to buy a buick with a 455 engine with an edelbrock and and at cold start it is has a hunting idle, also when you hit the gas it does not pick up well, seems like it is out of power. This information might be a little general but do you have any idea what might be the problem? It it just a matter of tuning the carb or is it a more serious problem? What might be the steps to undertake? Greetings from Holland
@@MuscleCarSolutions Thanks for the quick response. I will try to obtain more information to narrow it down and then I would like to come back to it. Thanks alot, I apreciate it!
I just rebuilt an old Carter (1st time) and set the idle speed so the transfer slots were square. There was no amount of timing or fuel mixture tuning to get the thing to idle with them set that way - had to go several turns in on idle adjustment. Checked for vacuum leaks and actually blocked off all ports. What might I be missing?
Old carters are often plagued with worn throttle shafts.
I have a question on the digital air fuel gauge. If your running dusk exhaust do you have one for each side of the exhaust system and how far down the exhaust do you place it?
@@MuscleCarSolutions that good to know. I was thinking of building an LS motor up with a 850 on it. With a long and tall runner intake on it. With a fuel cooler in line from the tank. A trans cooler to cool the fuel as well. Then have a circulator pump with a large trans cooler on it in the back to keep fuel at a constant temp. Use a carb spacer to isolate it as well. So this way I can have a cool dense fuel charge. I want looking at several to buy. But I will wait on you to return from SEMA and see what you come up with. I want this motor to flow well and have good power. Thanks so much for your time and help with this.
Nice video. Once you mentioned I have a question. My car is running great, it idles perfect, at wot is good, part throttle is good as well. Off idle is good as long as I give like 20% of throttle or more, however if give only a tiny gas, like 10% of throttle in order to leave a stop sign slowly there is an hesitation, pretty bad, I’d say. Other than that, like if I’m driving like at 30 mph or more, it is crisp. Any recommendation?
Bone Head first of all thank you for your prompt reply. I’ll start by the accelerator pump. I’ll have a vacuum gauge hooked up to check it. Thank you. Happy Thanksgiving!!
Hello
I have a 600cfm Edelbrock on a mildly built 305. It used to scream it's ass off and squeal the tires going into second with a turbo 350 tranny with the Rochester carb I had that crapped out (no clue what size it was). I wouldn't be surprised if I replaced it with too big of an Edelbrock based on advice from the poop head mechanic I had put it on (I was just a boy, mkay?).
My question is whether I can tune the 600cfm down enough to handle my little v8 or am I better off switching to a smaller size to get it back to squealing like a pig?
(but hell I don't know, maybe I could tune up? No clue)
Great video! You said we could leave a. Question in the comments. We put a new 1805 thunder on a 305 small block . At launch with foot brake it stalls ? Any idea where to start .
Any comments appreciated. Ty
Bone Head sorry 1805 I believe. 650 thunder with manual choke
Bone Head the Edlebrock chart said down to 283 .
We have headers and performer intake with power glide , 4.56 9 inch ford . Stall is 1800 I think . Can we lock out the secondary somehow?
Just to give it a try ?
Bone Head electric water pump and fans but as far as the core components stock except zero emissions and msd multi spark box
Bone Head man I thank ya . It’s been on the car for over a year . My dad is an old timer and spent 20 years building this bracket car and went to the track for the first time and died on the line . It started right back up and did 75 mph in the 8th mile . You gave us somewhere to start . I think the original idea was to stick a 383 in there and swap everything over so we don’t have to buy anything twice but not having anything to start with . I guess I could put a 75 shot nitrous on a one second timer at launch and still stay budget friendly. Thanks
Bone Head here’s the chart
Your right because it’s not talking about a stock 305 .
advertising.edelbrock.com/Literature/Misc/EDL_Carb_Application_Chart_03186.pdf
I'm running a pair of Edelbrock Thunder Series carbs (1803 & 1804) on a Pontiac engine. These are part of an Edelbrock top end dual quad kit consisting of the carbs, intake, cam, lifters & rocker arms. I've installed a pair of Edelbrock #8722 1/2" wood spacers under the carbs to alleviate heat soak.
The problem I'm trying to overcome is a very rich idle, the tailpipes are black and if I'm in the garage with the car I could die! I've adjusted the float levels to stock and a little less with no difference, if I went too low the car would stall when I made a hard turn or fast stop. The carbs are set up with the as-supplied .086" primary and .077" secondary jets.
I'm using a stock mechanical fuel pump and need to check the pressure output-at what point does fuel pressure overcome the needle/seat assembly? Thanks for your time and help.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Copy that-and the good thing about this set-up is the carbs are only 500 cfm each, less than needed for the engine alone, and with 1000 cfm available at WOT there's more than enough for power runs. The car has no drivability issues, well, there's one but that can wait till later to diagnose.
I've read that Edelbrock offers spring loaded needle/seat valves to avoid shock encountered by offroad use, maybe they'll help with a lower float level. Also, would you recommend leaving the original float drop setting or changing that as well? Thanks-
@@MuscleCarSolutions I verified that the mechanical fuel pump is supplying a steady 5-6 psi to the carbs. Next step will be to adjust the float levels, do you have a recommendation for how much lower to go than the 7/16" specified by Edelbrock?
Ray if your running a very hot cam with a lot of duration i have seen some Edelbrock carburetors run rich at the idle circuit because the vacuum is too low from the cam shaft duration so what do guys do is drill a small hole in each primary throttle plate to allow more air to come through at idle circuit idle ! Had a guy at the shop i worked with that had this problem on a 70 440 Challenger that was doing the very same thing because he had this radical high duration cam shaft and with small incremental changes on the hole fixed drilled in those front throttle plates he was able to get it running much better to a point it not only pulled harder out of the hole it also wouldn't burn your eyes at idle in the shop anymore . He tried lowering the floats as well as leaning up the primary jets but that still didn't do much until the holes were drilled !
I was curious about my 1406 she was running great with choke closed then after 1 test ride she started running like dog crap, surging and hard to keep idle in gear. If i cover the butterfly with my hands the idle raises and smooths right out. Sprayed carb cleaner around the top plate gasket by the throttle and you can hear and see the difference on the vacuum guage my question really is this a normal occurrence on these carbs? Thing is only a few months old has no miles on it. Thanks for the videos and the help
You have a vacuum leak somewhere.
I’m running dual edelbrock Avs 500’s on a pretty stock sbc. I have a stumble right off idle if I nail the throttle. If I roll into the throttle, it burns the tires. The plugs are all nice and tan, msd, vac. Advance distributor, timing set at 10 deg. Btdc. Full advance is 36deg. By 2500 rpm.
The chrome headers are turning blue, which would indicate lean to me. Where do I start? I do not have the book as I bought this whole setup used. I am assuming that both carbs. Have the stock jets, springs and rods, but I have not verified that yet. The pump shot linkage on both carbs is set in the center hole. Electric fuel pump, regulator with gauge, 2 fuel filters, and aluminum 1” carb spacers. Running 4psi of fuel pressure.
Lots of questions and places you can potentially start. I’d add some more initial timing to start with. It’s time to begin to look at tuning the carbs as well. I wouldn’t rely on the chrome headers being a good indication of a lean condition. In my opinion, the only way I will tune any dual set up is with an AFR. Preferably a dual O2. I know they are very expensive but it’s really the best way to tune those carbs and set timing. I know 30 years ago Dad did it all by ear but there is a wild card in all this - we have horrible fuel today with ethanol. So consider that investment if you plan on keeping that set up.
Sir,
I found your video along with the Edelbrock manual extremely useful. I have a '78 Ford F 150 400m engine and C6 transmission. I just had the heads properly freshened with hard seats, guides etc. I updated the engine with a Comp Cams RV style cam and timing set, Pertonix distributor, Edelbrock 3771 4bbl manifold and a 1406 carburetor.
Once the vehicle was running, Initial curb idle timing set at 12* BTDC without the vacuum and 36* BTDC with vacuum at 32-3400 RPM, idle mixture set for max vacuum I have encountered 2 issues. There was a soft lean misfire at light to medium throttle . I have solved that satisfactorily by increasing the metering rod 1 step straight North on the calibration chart from the stock 7547 to a 7347. The unresolved issue is a light misfire during the transition from closed throttle to about 1/3 throttle. I find that little burble irritating particularly at cruising speeds.
Thanks for your time
Bones’
Thank you for your prompt reply. I do not think the misfire is back through the carburetor, it doesn’t feel acute enough for that. think your suggestion of timing and hose routing is an excellent next step. Currently The vacuum source for the vacuum pod is from a true manifold vacuum source through a thermostatic valve to the pod as illustrated in the 2 photos. The plugged hose went to the plugged nipple on the carb base.It goes to a vacuum router at the rear of the engine for EGR and EVAP that I found had a significant vacuum leak.
image2.jpeg
image1.jpeg
The vehicle has passed emissions inspection so I can move things around as I please. Would you suggest vacuum to the pod directly from the manifold vacuum port on the carb base. Unfortunately this will be the only adjustment I can make for the next 2 months. My son the owner is a Chief Engineer on a container ship and goes back to sea on Friday. The truck will drive N 130 mi and then sit in the ship yard for 2 months. I’m a retired European automobile mechanic and shop owner. This has been a fun project for the Chief Mechanic and the Chief Engineer. I do so love EFI! The cars I worked on sold their last carbureted vehicle in the US in 1972 right at the end of my apprenticeship.....lol.
Thanks again for your knowledgeable input. I’ll keep you posted as progress is made.
Disseminated from Zubenelgenubi
I guess the photos didn’t go through. The vacuum source is a fitting on the #5 intake runner.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Excellent suggestion! Thank you. I have now put the Vac pod hose on the correct nipple on the carb. It now runs significantly better. I think I will go back to the original 7547 rods and give that a try when my son returns from sea and brings the truck back. Thank you again for your on point and wise counsel. If you ever deal with SU carburetors give be a ping. That was my world back in the day.
Cheers
Bo
Bone Head, I think I will purchase one of your suggested A/F ratio measurement systems to aid me in dialing in my sons truck when he returns. I think I can also figure out a way to use it with my boat engine which is a Chrysler Marine 318 with a 1409 carburetor. Once again thank you for your wise council.
Hello, eddie carb 600 on 72 Dodge Challenger 340. Starts great cold. Idles great when kickdown.Take off get to first light when at temp,always have to give slight bump to pedal to lower idle. Thoughts?
Linkage adjustment? Electric choke? Not releasing? Fast idle cam sticking?
If the step-up springs do not fix a hesitation, stumble etc. and you go on to change the metering rods, do I need to go back to the first spring that was in there before I started changing to different springs?
That’s the difficulty con tuning by just feel. An AFR would let you know if those changes were effective before you move on to working else. Keep the springs you selected, then make your rod/jet change and see if it gets better.
Thank you great video. Got a 650 cfm avs2 for a 302 Ford 1969. Running crazy rich, I believe I'm oversized on the carb. is it possible to detune (jet/rod change) this 650 to run on a small block 302 Ford?
Unfortunately you can’t tune CFM. I would agree you’re probably are too big on the carb. Not much you can do. Lean it out where you can and live with the rich condition. Or make the switch to a 500.
I have an 87 GMC Sierra with an electronic fuel pump in the tank. How do I add a fuel filter between?
That is the filters sock.
The manual I have with my 1413 800 cfm carb says that the passenger side small port is for emissions controlled engines and the driver side port is for non emissions controlled engines/distributors. Right now I'm actually using the original 1964 point distributor. Should I use the one on the driver side, that I am using?
The better question would be how big is the cam profile? Is it stock? Use the timed port. Is it an aggressive long duration cam? Use the full manifold port.
I'm about to order a new avs2. It's going on a near stock 454. What's your recommendation on cfm? From what I read and ive heard I was going to order the 800cfm... any thoughts?
Is that the carburetor you would order for a stock 454?
When tuning dual quads do you tune then the same? Progressive linkage. Like if I do a metering rod change for cruise do I also use the same number rod for the second carb?
355 avs2 500’s. Running rich at cruise and real rich at WOT. Thanks.
You’re always going to fight a rich condition. You’re way over carbureted. So just get used to that and all the things that will come with it. Lots of oil changes, spark plug changes and a little more time tuning as conditions change. No they don’t get tuned the same. Progressive linkage is the right way to go. Generally I’ll lean the secondary carb out as far as I can. Run as much as I can off the primary, if that is how your linkage is set up. Some run off the secondary carb and the primary is only used at WOT. In which case I lean out the primary. There’s a problem with all that. You cant change CFM. You’ll still be flowing that amount of air and the air movement through the venturi is what signals the metering circuits to provide fuel. All you can do is try to lessen the fuel but the signal will continue to be there and continue to fight you.
I have a 1406. When adjusting the fuel regulator, do you set it for the MAX it will allow? I have mine set at 5.5 lbs. when it is at high idle. After I drive it then check it again, it drops to between 3-4.
I always start at 6 at idle and tune down from there as needed. I’d you’re dropping that much pressure, it’s likely one or more issues. Fuel lines too close to a heat source. You’re using a deadhead style regulator and they are famous for dropping some pressure. Put a clear filter before and after the regulator and see what the difference looks like. Once you get it sorted out, remove the filter after the regulator. We’re not a fan of one there. 😉
Great video but confused on the front vacuum ports (around 7:30 in the video) . I have a 1966 mustang, Edelbrock Performer Manifold and carb, original style vacuum advance distributor. I was under the impression that the right (drivers side) is what I should use and the left was for type that have egr. Am I wrong? I also notice with a vacuum gauge, left port is Zero unless throttle is applied whereas right port has constant vacuum. HELP ..LOL... I want it to be hooked up correctly. Thanks !!!
Bone Head yup I knew that and thanks for straightening this out. But now begs the question of vacuum gage and setting idle air fuel. I have seen you should get max vacuum when setting, then back down 1/2 turn on each side. How do I get max vacuum if it's zero at idle? Use the other side?
@@MuscleCarSolutionsYou are awesome...thanks for the quick clear replies !!!
So, because I am dummy... which port to use when using a vacuum gauge? Driver or passenger side?
@@iminnorush Driver side for running a vacuum gauge.
This is a great video. I recently swapped a 06 5.3 in my 1980 k10 which I swapped the fuel injection to a carburetor. I opted for a Holley mid rise intake, edelbrock 1406 carb, and msd 6014(I believe the number is) ignition controller and once I got my batter ground figured out, she fired up no problems.... I’ve yet to adjust it any means being in Kansas I have no idea what the tuning is gonna be..... I’m in Europe on a 9 month rotation and all I read is my carb book so when I get home I can tune with no reference(it’s a small goal I set for myself).... anyways I enjoyed the video. I have a suggestion, maybe tuning idle mixture and determine if you need a new jet. And what is a good baseline for inches of mercury which I believe is 20.5 inches.... I may be wrong but that’s what learning is all about.......
Bone Head okay I understand. So you could really diagnose jet and rods by dyno, a/f gauge, and driving it.... like I said, I know a little about carbs and trying to learn as much as possible.....
For the carb conversion, yes everything is stock.... you’ll need to reroute the vent tube of the driver side head, change the intake of course, and bit an ignition controller..... Holley has a similar setup for the atomic efi which i didn’t want bc it was expensive, and a waste as I’m not trying to go high horsepower.... just a beater with a heater and a little pep in her step....
Bone Head also, the carb was a reman from edelbrock from jegs.com and only has 3 starts and a 2 minute idle each start bc I don’t have a belt tensioner therefore no belt to spin the water pump and so on.... then left to Europe and have some parts waiting for me if my wife doesn’t sell them 😂
Bone Head well I had it running just not long enough for the choke to open up so it was a high idle at 1600rpm. I have to adjust the fast idle ad get the idle screws perfect..... I know someone with a similar setup and it’s just awesome. Except he he’s a bigger carb......... I’m pretty sure the 600cfm should be fine on a completely bone stock 5.3.... I’ve seen 750’s on a 305 and other 327’s and they were fine..... if anything, I’ll have to buy a bigger carb.... I want to put a cam from an ls6 with better valves springs bc I love high reving v8’s.... just enough for towing a little and mainly a daily driver.... I’m looking for an nv4500 but people want so much money for that transmission without a bell housing.....
great video. i have an issue with my jet boat its 21 ft aluminum with 1410 Edelbrcok marine and 350 chevy. boat starts and idles , and cruises fine but when it gets to 3600 rpm it wont go any further. if i push the throttle it it starts spiting and stumbles and have no further power . thx for the tips
@@MuscleCarSolutions thanks for the comment. to be honest dont know much myself about what was done to the boat .just purchased 3 months ago from a heavy duty mechanic shop owner. he told me the boat is fine it just need new jets and carb adjustment. the boat has electrical fuel pump so i just added a holey deadhead regulator thinking it my be over-fueling but i have not taking to the water to test yet. i purchased the carb jet kit but I have not open it or install it yet because I though I will try one thing at the time to see if the issue goes away before i pour more money on this.
@@MuscleCarSolutions i just run into this google comment that says "If the carburetor is "too big" then the engine will not be able to keep enough air flow through the barrels for fuel delivery to occur. Which would explain why the engine would work at highway speeds but struggles at low rpms. Jun 8, 2010" Howver, mine is the opposite , it runs fine in low speeds but struggles at higher speed.
@@MuscleCarSolutions will do thx again.
Thanks for putting this together. Struggling to get mine running nice on a 350 sbc. Spent a couple of hours just now. At idle it smells rich, going leaner causes the engine to run rougher / close to stall. Also hesitates momentarily when throttle blipped. Going rich means throttle blip is ok and smooth, but kicks some smoke out and idle smells of unburned fuel. Feel like I've been going around in circles (adjusting idle speed along the way as rpm drops / increases - aiming for 600 / 650 idle rpm in park).
@@MuscleCarSolutions wow thanks for the quick reply! Engine has stock cam, edelbrock performer intake and carb, headers and 2.5" exhaust with X pipe and flowmaster delta 50 mufflers. Adjusted timing a few times, seems to be pretty consistent aka sits at 12°@ idle and 36°@ ~2500rpm. Have only been adjusting the front two mix screws and the idle rpm screw so far to try and get it consistent... i.e aiming for no fuel smell @idle, smooth throttle response and smooth idle. Is it likely the answer lies in rod / jet changes?
@@MuscleCarSolutions The carb is a 1406, so works out to a pretty typical SBC upgrade with the intake and headers. It was fitted to the car before I bought it, so not sure if it's got the stock jets in there. Think I'll grab a kit from Edelbrock with all the rods etc. I'm in England so takes a while to get over here from the U.S. Might do a video of it running with a vacuum gauge on and share it with you for feedback. Carb tuning a V8 is not too common over here :)
I'm trying to troubleshoot a problem with my 1406 edelbrock. At idle, the engine runs fine, and revs up fine, but when I put it in gear to drive and press the gas, it doesn't respond and lugs the engine down. It doesn't die, but I can floor the pedal and engine doesn't increase RPM. Ever heard of that issue? or think that is something else than the carb? I can't find any good information about the problem I'm having.
@@MuscleCarSolutions ended up getting another carb to try and truck runs fine now. So its narrowed down to something wrong with that carburetor internally. Haven't torn into it yet to find out the problem
running into either a carb or vaporizing issue.. most likely both..
im running a holley fuel pressure regulator on my 302 82 mustang near the passenger firewall on my carter AFB . if the regulator gets hot and stops reading does this mean it expanded to allow max flow? or has it collapsed?
getting hard to start after sitting hot. and stumbling after idling/heavy loads.
Check out my video on heat soak.
Recently purchased 1969 Firebird with a stock 350 engine it has a 1411 750cfm Edelbrock carb with a performer intake, factory cast iron headers, flow-master exhaust MSD electronic ignition. Is that 750 cfm carb to big for this setup it seem to stumble a bit under acceleration
Mike Knizner yup. You can meter it down a little, but you can’t meter down that CFM. If it’s bone stock and just a fun cruiser, I’d put a 500 or a 600 on. The 600 would allow you to grow into it a bit. This situation you’re in is a perfect time to pick up an AFT gauge and see how rich it is as it sits. Good stuff can be learned from what that gauge will tell you. Congrats on the car. Absolutely love the first gen Camaro/Firebirds.
So I'm working on a 650 edelbrock on a small block chevy it's tuned for a 400. I have watched many videos . I have picked up a vac gauge and I'm now steady at 19 psi. I have a small stumble at the time of hitting the gas at start. Am I running to lean... Or would you recommend checking the chart. I don't have a pic of the chart but am going to find one or all needed. I was thinking metering rod.
It’s ok to sacrifice a little vacuum to correct any problems like the one you’re having. It’s very possible that’s it’s a bit starved of fuel. I would look at making a step up spring change first. That will get your current set up to tip in faster when the vacuum in the engine drops as the load increases. You can move on to rod/jet tuning after that.
I have a 318 with a torquey cam and magnum 360 heads. I have not been able to get the stumble off idle to go away, but at 2000 rpm if I kick her in the guts she absolutely screams.
The real Bad Bob I have the same problem in my big block, she doesn’t like to take off but once you get past 2000 hold on lol
There is a lack of information on A/F ratios vs power and fuel economy with regards to stressing the engine (knock, ping, burned valves). For example what is the best A/F for fuel economy while cruising without leaning out the engine too much? My truck is a 1985 F-250 HD (5,900# certified scales) with a fresh 460, T-19 4-speed, 4x4, high boy, 9:1 c.r. with forged pistons, mild cam, stock heads/exhaust. Dyno at 4,200' is 246 HP/4,200 rpm at the rear wheels (Dana 70 rear end) and max torque at 2,500 cruising rpm. Best number for fuel economy I could find was 15.4 A/F. I leaned out a 1405 to one stage leaner (at 4,000' elevation) and the truck will get up to 11 mpg and runs strong. That said, 200 miles on fresh plugs shows the porcelain insulator to be a clean white and not a light grey or brown that is optimum; the ground electrode has a slight buildup of deposits. There is NO ping or knock so I am good there. My point is that it is a good idea to read the spark plugs while tuning. I may be just slightly too lean and will experiment with rods and jets. My AutoMeter A/F shows 15.4 A/F when cruising and above to 16 with slightly more power for passing, etc. WOT power and idle is 12-13. Had I installed stainless steel or stellite-faced exhaust valves then I would not worry too much about being slightly lean. If you cannot measure it then you cannot troubleshoot it, you can only guess and I hate guessing. I am still looking for a good book or read on A/F tuning.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Thanks for the rapid response. I have planned on lowering the A/F ratio. Nowhere on the internet or library have I found studies of varying A/F ratios and effects on driveability, engine load, engine damage, and so on. I am an industrial engineer and dealt with numbers and not opinions. That is why I monitor the A/F and vacuum along with load and rpm. Too expensive to add a gear. BTW, the engine is built as strong as I could with Eagle rods and Autotec forged pistons. It is capable of handling 550 HP and I have about 300 HP at the flywheel. Timing is 8 deg BTDC on a stock dizzy. After observing retaliative coarse A/F changes with the EDDY then I am now considering EFI because I can fine tune the engine fuel parameters.
What an engine desires for a/f is not a static/constant number. Each engine will like a different number. Anyone can get you ballpark, but in the end, it's similar to timing
There's not a magic rule outside of experimenting. Called "tuning"
I am pleased with my Edelbrock 1406 on my 300 hp 302 Ford except for choke operation and warm idle. I have the fast idle set at 1200 rpm and the warm idle at 800. If I kick the choke off of fast idle the engine dies. It will restart and idle fine. After driving the car for a few miles it idles at 1100 rpm in park or neutral. This confuses me. I have this same carb on another 302 motor [stock 84 HO] and it has performed flawlessly for 12 years with absolutely no adjustment out of the box. Any suggestions?
@@MuscleCarSolutions Yes I am setting the fast idle with the fast idle screw then warm idle with the idle speed screw. I will check for trash. It is a new carb along with all new fuel system and tank. Thanks
Excellent video thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. I have one question, I’ve built a Windsor 351 60 thou over AFR heads and Edlebrook AVS2 800cfm carb and manifold. The engine is not installed yet. Is 800 cfm too big . If it is, can I adjust the carb downwards ?
You can’t change the CFM of a carburetor. What is the max rpm on this engine?
@@MuscleCarSolutions street use only
@@ciaranlowe5547 need an rpm. What’s the cam rated for? What range? It’s important.
@@MuscleCarSolutions 1500 to 5000 rpm range using a Lunati roller cam 112 lobe separation 108 center line rolle rockers 1.6 ratio. Cam part # 20350711. Hope this helps
@@ciaranlowe5547 yup. That’s exactly what you need to know. By the math, that engine would need a CFM of around 523.72. If it’s just a street cruiser with a really low rpm range, you’ll have a way easier time tuning with a 650 or 500. That 800 will be an extremely rich running engine that you won’t be able to tune away.
GREAT VIDEO - quick question. Just dropped a crate motor in my '67 Camaro - car sat for about 6-8 months while I was working through pulling the engine apart and deciding what to do. When I put the new motor in, I didn't rebuild the carb at first until about 60 miles into the rebuild the car just didn't seem to be running right. Lagging, no strong pickup. So I pulled the carb, disassembled and did a cleanup on it, replacing the gaskets but keeping the jets. Replaced the small needles in the float assembly. Car is running but just doesn't seem to have that punch I expected - and also, after the rebuild, when I am on full throttle around 60-70 mph and I let off the throttle, it 'stays' - pedal doesn't stick, but the engine RPM's really don't drop like they should until I 'pop' the throttle and then she drops like normal.
What part internally did I not check or install correctly that would be allowing that to happen? THANKS.
I’ll start by assuming your ignition system is in good shape and working properly. What is your total timing set at and what RPM does it go to full advance? Ok so just like the video, how is your fuel system set up? What is you’re pressure regulator set at? Where is your accelerator pump set at? Stock middle hole or did you add more fuel or leave it alone? As far as the not dropping in RPM when you let off the gas, that’s going to be a throttle return spring issue. What are you running there?
@@MuscleCarSolutions THANK YOU! Appreciate the quick response. To your questions:
1. Yes, ignition system working properly. Car starts and runs normally. Voltage at the coil is 11.98.
2. Timing: was set at 10deg TDC at 650 rpm per the instructions with the crate motor from GM Perf with vacuum advance off. This theoretically should produce 32deg of total advance at WOT.
3. Fuel system: I took notes. I have a single SS filter AFTER the pump. Do not have a pressure regulator. Car didn't have one and ran for three years. Assumed pressure was 'good' but now I will look at putting an inline regulator.
4. Stock middle hole on the accelerator pump.
5. Throttle spring - running the standard spring that was on the car already. Has plenty of 'pull' to it so I don't know why its not responding. When the hood is open and the engine is running, I can hit and hold the throttle and when I release it drops as normal. Seems to be on load and north of 60mph when it sticks.
THANK you again for the information. I downloaded and am reading the Edelbrock manual for the 1406 today to learn more.
I would verify when your all in advance hits. What RPM. A common mistake is thinking that because something ran well before then the additional tuning points or support isn’t needed. For sure get a regulator and a gauge. Keep an eye on the pressure from time to time. It will change over time on a mechanical pump and you’ll need to adjust. Set the accelerator pump on the one closest to the pivot. That’s the smallest shot of fuel. See how it responds. If it’s worse, go to the furthest one to give it the biggest shot of fuel. See if it’s better or worse. I’d verify the timing first. Then adjust the accelerator pump. That’s the free stuff. But I’d get a regulator and a gauge and get it installed. Set at 6psi initially. You can adjust down lower later as you tune. Question on fuel. Running E10 I’m assuming? Not E85? Or blessed enough to use non ethanol fuel?
Hey so just recently inherited my fathers red 1983 gmc shortbed he’s passed sadly, so I tuned my new carb but ya keeps flooding on just giving it gas and putters out, then I have to wait 30 mins to retry and move it
Lots of things to look at. If it’s blowing past the needle and seats then figure out why. Get a pressure regulator and dial the pressure to 6psi or lower. Take the top off the carb and see how much garbage is on there and clean as necessary.