Brilliant as always Ian. One slight variation I use is to mark where the wire comes out of the top of the head and then take it off and cut the wire down by a few mill below that mark. Then put the head on reposition and CA. It eliminates the hassle of the small tab of wire and means it is just a simple fill. Keep the videos coming these are brilliant.
Soooo jealous of your model head stash!!! One tip that I like to do to fill gaps on a plastic figures is to cut small shavings off the sprue. Then take those with a little extra thin and any tool (knife, toothpick etc) you can work the plastic around to fill the gap quite nicely. Thanks for your post!
Thank you! Those tip and trick are a huge help for us guys that don't build figures. This will definitely help make tank and crew dioramas much better.
Actually really interesting techniques, I will try the technique with the Tamiya putty and the cement, it’s really inovative and cool. Keep up the good work!
Well thought out tips and tricks indeed. I just got into messing around with resin putty for creating my own weld lines on vehicles. One day I'll work up the courage to tackle figure sculpting. Start small and let it grow. Excellent tutorial Ian! Cheers!
Great video Ian! Thanks for sharing this technique, I often get irritated of short necks and problems with changing the head position. With this method life will be easier:) Thanks Erik
Sept. 9, 2019---Thanks for the video as you showed me more than one tip I didn't know of. Really like the part cocking the guys head like you did. Was kind of surprised and glad you mentioned Shepard Paine's hand/sleeve trick. Getting back into modeling, but going for 1/35th scale zombie/apocalypse dioramas which means A LOT of figures will be in them. Now I know how to make them look like one piece instead of several being glued together.
Thanks for posting. I learned some great new techniques like the head positioning method. Just started back at it after many years and I think I'll be throwing out all the old 70s and 80s figure parts I kept. The new castings are so much better. I would like to get some ideas on prepping and painting British WW2 figures with all the 37 pattern pouches. Not sure if I should attach them prior to painting or paint them separate?
Thank you Ian, i also read Shep Payne book, but i still not understand on how to modify the hand from it default to a fully grip pose, like fully grip a tank handle or a rife strap
I mainly use Windsor Newton series 7s sizes 2,1and a 0. Lately I’ve also been using scale 75’s kolinsky brushes they are easier to get and keep a point really well.
D Mather great question! You could use putty and sculpt your own, that’s rather difficult tho for me and my fumbly hands. I usually will carve into the subject, you can use some filler for any gaps you might have. So if it’s a rolled smock or a gas mask canister attach it dry, get a decision on how you want it to hang then carve out a lil bit at a time until it’s sits how you like it.
Ian E Thanks! I’m actually working on Dragon’ Italian Paratroopers, and none of their breadbags or anything fits as it comes. I’m going to try carving, probably using the Dremel. Wish me luck.
Just getting into modeling and this was very helpful. Could you add the items you were using in the description? Specifically the silicone burnisher tool. Thanks.
Steve Woodyatt it’s really just a silicone “Medium Pusher” you can find at big box stores like Hobby Lobby or Michaels” Same with Milliput Yellow and or Aves. I get Aves from my local hobby shop or Milliput from hobby lobby. I don’t have specific links to said items I just grab them when I need them
Hi nice work Ian, I`m pleased to have watched your video I would have never thought to drill all the way through the figures head, I have been considering drilling through the neck and inserting a metal pin in to the model to adjust the angle as you have shown but the pins I have been using in my models foot are not bendy more like panel pins with the heads cut off, I guess the diameter of the copper wire is the same size of the drill bit could you let me know what size diameter I would need please. Kind Regards jeffrey.
Very helpful indeed not seen that done before but 1 question how to remove a previous head that was molded on the figure to start yeah I know cut it off but depth clean cut as most plastic figures come with heads I know novice type question but this video just opened a door to other possibilities awesome work buy the way learning tons binge watching lol
Oh for sure, I can see that being an issue, I would use my nippers clip the head at the base of the neck. Then use a xacto blade and pinvice to hollow out the collar. Might take some slight sanding but with a lil care it can be done. Thank you!!
@@IanEBBMThat's my my soldering experience too, but bad plastic bending experiences I've had! I try that with pliers the thumb is gone! Great ideas mate, especially the head drilling. I don't miss soldering those cables...
Ryan Moorfell for plastic I use Tamiya cement for resin or metal I typically use gorrilla glue gel. I have discovered that the gel doesn’t really crystallize like most CA glues
First i was like "cool, back to basics", but then it turned into sculpting beginners guide, awesome :) really interesting approach there! will memorize this for my own future projects.
The Vogt Boat there many companies out there. Alpine, panzer art, bodi miniatures, dragon has a bunch of sets and so does mini art and master box if you’re looking for plastic figures
Please god, why don't you speak just plain English! I am so, so tired of the 'ohs, and the ums' and the 'well kind ah' language that passes for just plain, straightforward communication. Why not just try and drop all of that sort of vagueness that just gets in the way of what you are trying to communicate to others. Simple and direct is the best form of communication and the type of communication that registers most . I hope for the best but expect the worst, i.e. this 'same old, same old' sad type of 'communication'.
Uh Tom, you ain’t wrong, but ya kinda come across as a Dickturd. I hope that there was at least some helpful tips n the video. I also hope that you find a better attitude and create some content of your own chief. Feel free to use what I have put out that and expand upon it.
I've been a modeller for 40+ years on and off and still learning stuff, thanks for the great video, that head tip is a great one.
Brilliant as always Ian. One slight variation I use is to mark where the wire comes out of the top of the head and then take it off and cut the wire down by a few mill below that mark. Then put the head on reposition and CA. It eliminates the hassle of the small tab of wire and means it is just a simple fill. Keep the videos coming these are brilliant.
Great tips! I've been assembling figures and painting them for a while now. Easy to do the prep work even when away on holiday.
Fantastic work some very cool techniques to try there I've just bought my first ever hornet heads
Soooo jealous of your model head stash!!!
One tip that I like to do to fill gaps on a plastic figures is to cut small shavings off the sprue. Then take those with a little extra thin and any tool (knife, toothpick etc) you can work the plastic around to fill the gap quite nicely.
Thanks for your post!
Thank you! Those tip and trick are a huge help for us guys that don't build figures. This will definitely help make tank and crew dioramas much better.
I really like your easy way of explaining things. I find it fun to follow along. thank you
Actually really interesting techniques, I will try the technique with the Tamiya putty and the cement, it’s really inovative and cool. Keep up the good work!
Well thought out tips and tricks indeed. I just got into messing around with resin putty for creating my own weld lines on vehicles. One day I'll work up the courage to tackle figure sculpting. Start small and let it grow. Excellent tutorial Ian!
Cheers!
Figures have always been a mystery me, this was an eye opener. A great tute keep them coming.
Great video Ian! Thanks for sharing this technique, I often get irritated of short necks and problems with changing the head position. With this method life will be easier:) Thanks Erik
Thank You Ian for sharing some of your ideas with us.
Some great ideas there. I like the neck thing you did seems to work pretty well.
Sept. 9, 2019---Thanks for the video as you showed me more than one tip I didn't know of. Really like the part cocking the guys head like you did. Was kind of surprised and glad you mentioned Shepard Paine's hand/sleeve trick. Getting back into modeling, but going for 1/35th scale zombie/apocalypse dioramas which means A LOT of figures will be in them. Now I know how to make them look like one piece instead of several being glued together.
I love your videos man, can you show us what you camera and set up you use please.
Honestly I just use my iphone and a iphone holder with an arictulated arm it clips to my desk.
Thank you for showing me how to make my figures better as l have a lot of problems doing them and it's the one part of modeling l really like 👍
Great tips to be had there for me. Thanks very much. Love it!
Excellent and just what I needed. Thank you!
Thanks for posting. I learned some great new techniques like the head positioning method. Just started back at it after many years and I think I'll be throwing out all the old 70s and 80s figure parts I kept. The new castings are so much better. I would like to get some ideas on prepping and painting British WW2 figures with all the 37 pattern pouches. Not sure if I should attach them prior to painting or paint them separate?
Great tips there Ian Thanks for posting
I'm leaving so much hang on always have its 230 a,m just finished work chilling with a beer take care my friend 👍👏👏👏🐑
Excellent video, can't wait to try your techniques, thank you!
hi ian excellent like always mate. learnfull keep on the good work overthere
Dr. Frankenstein modeling tutorials!
The “head” box!
I have a odd, if not sick mind.
Good tips, thanks.
IV been watching your vid yer its ok good tips nice to c time and being proper on plastic.GOOD STUFF.(like head box)
Amazing work, Ian! We're all going to be up to our necks in model building with these techniques. Lol! Carry on, model man!
Thank you Ian, i also read Shep Payne book, but i still not understand on how to modify the hand from it default to a fully grip pose, like fully grip a tank handle or a rife strap
Some really neat tips there Ian 👍
that was really informative, great work
Great vid as ever Ian. Some very good tips
New sub, great work what type of brushes are using and can you provide size range you use?. Keep up the amazing work. ✌🇨🇦☃️✌
I mainly use Windsor Newton series 7s sizes 2,1and a 0. Lately I’ve also been using scale 75’s kolinsky brushes they are easier to get and keep a point really well.
Great video. Very helpful.
That’s a clever idea to use the wire to adjust the head and neck position!
Hi Ian,
Any tips on how to get bags, packs, etc., that are soft, but plastic parts are too stiff to fit the figure curves correctly?
Great video!
D Mather great question! You could use putty and sculpt your own, that’s rather difficult tho for me and my fumbly hands. I usually will carve into the subject, you can use some filler for any gaps you might have. So if it’s a rolled smock or a gas mask canister attach it dry, get a decision on how you want it to hang then carve out a lil bit at a time until it’s sits how you like it.
Ian E Thanks! I’m actually working on Dragon’ Italian Paratroopers, and none of their breadbags or anything fits as it comes. I’m going to try carving, probably using the Dremel. Wish me luck.
D Mather good luck! Yeah great thing about dragon you get tons of extras. That usually come in handy. Take your time and enjoy yourself :)
Just getting into modeling and this was very helpful. Could you add the items you were using in the description? Specifically the silicone burnisher tool. Thanks.
Steve Woodyatt it’s really just a silicone “Medium Pusher” you can find at big box stores like Hobby Lobby or Michaels” Same with Milliput Yellow and or Aves. I get Aves from my local hobby shop or Milliput from hobby lobby. I don’t have specific links to said items I just grab them when I need them
Awesome, thanx for sharing your tricks! What Material you are using?
Btw, who put the thump down in this great vid....?
Hi nice work Ian, I`m pleased to have watched your video I would have never thought to drill all the way through the figures head,
I have been considering drilling through the neck and inserting a metal pin in to the model to adjust the angle as you have shown
but the pins I have been using in my models foot are not bendy more like panel pins with the heads cut off, I guess the diameter
of the copper wire is the same size of the drill bit could you let me know what size diameter I would need please. Kind Regards jeffrey.
jeffrey wall hey Jeffrey, I usually use 18 gauge copper wire! Thanks!
Very helpful indeed not seen that done before but 1 question how to remove a previous head that was molded on the figure to start yeah I know cut it off but depth clean cut as most plastic figures come with heads I know novice type question but this video just opened a door to other possibilities awesome work buy the way learning tons binge watching lol
Oh for sure, I can see that being an issue, I would use my nippers clip the head at the base of the neck. Then use a xacto blade and pinvice to hollow out the collar. Might take some slight sanding but with a lil care it can be done. Thank you!!
@@IanEBBM cheers thanks for your quick response ahh nippers off with the head guillotine style lol a little messy thanks again
Excellent tutorial,thanks 🖒😉
Thank you. And thanks for a great tutorial.
A bit of gentle heating with a low wattage soldering iron helps bending
Drunken Modeller awesome I’d love to see a video on that!
@@IanEBBM I'm sure you would!
Drunken Modeller I don’t own a iron and only thing I’ve ever saudered were guitar and microphone cables
@@IanEBBMThat's my my soldering experience too, but bad plastic bending experiences I've had! I try that with pliers the thumb is gone! Great ideas mate, especially the head drilling.
I don't miss soldering those cables...
Excellent video, pal.
Excellent video mate thanks
Nice tips ,thank you .
Total Awesomeness
Great vid.What is the name of the glue your using.
Ryan Moorfell for plastic I use Tamiya cement for resin or metal I typically use gorrilla glue gel. I have discovered that the gel doesn’t really crystallize like most CA glues
First i was like "cool, back to basics", but then it turned into sculpting beginners guide, awesome :) really interesting approach there! will memorize this for my own future projects.
Hreat information thank you!
Yes a good helpful video 👍
Very informative thanks.
Who should I go to for good allied 1/35 scale models?
The Vogt Boat there many companies out there. Alpine, panzer art, bodi miniatures, dragon has a bunch of sets and so does mini art and master box if you’re looking for plastic figures
@@IanEBBM thanks
Que buen video.
Very useful indeed. 🙏
you are great.
You've got an extra 'e' in 'preparing'. Otherwise, excellent video!
VoyenniVek I thought I did, honestly thank you for calling that out! :)
Please god, why don't you speak just plain English!
I am so, so tired of the 'ohs, and the ums' and the 'well kind ah' language that passes for just plain, straightforward communication.
Why not just try and drop all of that sort of vagueness that just gets in the way of what you are trying to communicate to others.
Simple and direct is the best form of communication and the type of communication that registers most .
I hope for the best but expect the worst, i.e. this 'same old, same old' sad type of 'communication'.
Uh Tom, you ain’t wrong, but ya kinda come across as a Dickturd. I hope that there was at least some helpful tips n the video. I also hope that you find a better attitude and create some content of your own chief. Feel free to use what I have put out that and expand upon it.