Best Alternator For Car Audio? Mechman 320A Elite | In A 2018 Impala
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- Опубліковано 1 сер 2024
- Is the Mechman 320 Amp Elite Series Alternator the best alternator For Car Audio? Today I install it in my 2018 Chevy Impala and let you guys know how I feel about it.
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SUBWOOFERS -
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Tools -
AGM Batteries: amzn.to/3sXVnbH
Capacitors:
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Play Lists -
Learn More About Band-Pass Builds: • Band Pass Builds
12”Competitions: • 12 Inch Subwoofer Comp...
Skar Audio: • Skar Audio
American Bass: • Skar Audio
Power Acoustik: • Power Acoustik
AudioPipe: • Audiopipe
Impala Sound System: • Impala System
Learn How To Count Acoustic Orders: • Counting Acoustic Orders
Time Stamps
0:00 - Intro
1:19 - Un-Installing Stock Alternator
3:08 - Size Comparisons
4:38 - Weight Comparisons
5:12 - Bolts & Terminals
7:05 - Pulley Size Comparisons
7:38 - Terminal Cleaning Techniques
8:36 - New Alternator Install
10:48 - First Start | Voltage Check
12:00 - SPL Testing
13:38 - Amperage & Voltage Check
14:36 - Daily Music Testing
15:53 - Conclusion
Tags:
#Mechman #AftermarketAlternator #HighoutputAlternator #XSPower #Supercapacitor #UC31 #Super Capacitor #SkarAudio #VXF12 #IOXUS #UStart #AGMBatteries
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Whatever you do.. don't sell your factory alt.. incase you have issues with your mechmann and have to send it back.. you'll be stranded.
That was a great video. I just bought the Mecman 400 and the Down 4Sound supercap. I haven't installed them yet so it was good watching you do it first!
I did an upgrade rebuild myself, turning my 95 amp CS130D alternator to 210 amps at 1,200 rpm, 150 at idle for $120 and some sweat equity. ASP Wholesale is where I got the kit and the overdrive pulley. Worked really well and had no problems.
Would’ve been nice to show the voltage at the amps under load with the new alternator to compare to what it was before
I thought that was the purpose of this video.
So did i@@mattakyle
@@Clare.1985 SMH. Lol. Click bait, it gets you every time.
and so proud of you bro. you moeving fawerd the chanel is fresh content is on point thanks for the time you take to bring us QUALITY content
Appreciate that. Thanks for the support!
A good tip also is to mark where the tensioner pulley is at with the stock alt then when you put on the high output one make sure the tensioner is around the same area and not maxed out forward or backward
Great video my friend , you have explained much better than a lot of other s WELL DONE,!!! And can't wait to watch more of your video s
You have come a long way D getting better all the time thanks for the content and knowledge 👍
You're very welcome 👍
@@BudgetBassHead I remember audio pipe vs mofos I’ve got the mofos and they still kicking
Another on-point video bro. I lovin the channel man.
Nice work on that alternator replacement! I do that for a living & your hands are as skilled as most of the guys I work with. Good job!
Thanks 👍
another excellent video! thanks again for all your effort! nice work on that alternator install
Another great video bro! Thanks for what you do
I appreciate that!✌
If you haven't sold your OEM alternator yet I would urge you to keep it. If your HO alternator goes out, for any reason, you'll be very happy to have the original to keep you on the road while the HO is being repaired. Remember, anything man-made can fail.
Yes good advice but I believe he said he's keeping it for when he sells his car.
@@lowhertzhighspl He did, I was thinking more about anyone else who is making this upgrade and considering selling their original alternator.
While I'm thinking about it, anyone buying/installing power wire, DO NOT use CCA (copper clad aluminum) wire! CCA is fine for jumper cables but it should never be used in a permanent installation in your vehicle. The reason is, over many heat cycles aluminum WILL become Brittle. At some point it WILL crumble and when that happens it will cause a hot spot. If it allows enough amperage through it can easily get hit enough to start a fire. It nearly happened to me. Yes copper is more expensive but it can be used over many years in different vehicles you own. CCA is simply not worth the risk. Welding cable is the most cost effective cable to buy. All the best!
Yup. I thought a half inch shorter belt would be ideal, but it was way too tight and squealed like a pig. Stock worked fine. Let the tensioner do it’s job! It was definitely a pain to replace mine with a Singer 270a in my 14’ edge. Had to grind down the positive post to clear the frame as well.
Love the video in the build not really a bass head but I love the efficiency of the big three and the Mechman and xs power 👍
great video!!..as usual!!😎👌
I do feel that big brand companies and competition audio companies do charge alot more than others..git wut u pay for but wow!!
my shout out tho is for the editing!..not sure if they missed it but the bass hit right wit the background track of the video!!! 🙃WHAT!?! Sweet touch bro!! keep up the great work!!!
Thanks for the support 🤘
Replacing the alt on gm cars are a bit tedious but its very doable for a diy guy. I did one for a family member in bout a hour total
Wish my stock denso alternator comes with 150 amp. Really enjoy your video brother.
Thanks 👍
Dope videos man!
Appreciate it!
How efficient are those amps had that brand and went to DS 18 GenX was chalk n cheese with the power consumption and output. You have proved that upgrading the power supply to the equipment is high priority and very necessary
Sweet alternator and great video thanks for posting brother, God bless.
Thanks 👍
Sounds super great Brother 👍
Thanks for the compliment
I think you did a good job, I too have a 3000w amp that starving for more power and purchased a 320 amp alt waiting to receive hope it works out…
Thanks for the info!
Glad I got a 2007 Chevy 1500 easy to do the alt upgrade
Most GM/Chevy's s have a Rvc that metiers the grounds and when it see voltage drop it kicks the alt in. it will be within 6" of your battery. you can see this in your video it is right below your clamp metier @ 11:00. I almost bet if you would have put your grounds from you big 4 in this clamp your old alt would have done just fine. MecMan makes a mod to bypass this if you want that. You get a really clear Pictuer of you Rvc @ 13:50 Only wire you have ran is the stock ground.
Bro great video
Glad you enjoyed
Good editing... Keep it up
I will try my best
You got so lucky on my 2007 cadiliac dts I had to remove the whole front end and radiator it was a pain in the butt so worth it tho
Good job 👏 bro👍
You'd like the EVL loaded Enclosure box much more! Its a tank! And its even got bracing that holds the sub magnet inside the box. Really solid. I just posted mine on my channel yesterday.
I bought a 15" EVL loaded enclosure and then I also bought their 15" empty enclosure to put an SDR in... I thought they would be similar quality. Boy, was I wrong. The difference in build quality and performance is not close.
The evl enclosure is so much stronger...double baffled 1-1/2" thick where the 15i" empty enclosure is only one layer of 3/4 inch MDF. The inside of the port is also braced in the middle to prevent flexing with the EVLenclosure and not braced at all with the empty enclosure.
Lastly, the port design of the evl enclosure seems a much better design with the grate there to reduce/prevent chuffing and the tapered interior.
Bottom line: the EVL enclosure hits much harder and most importantly much cleaner.
@@snauspockets9924 yeah, its a really really nice box! The ppl that have these SDR boxes have no idea what they're missing lol.
@@1ohmwrecker I forgot to mention that it has bolts and bolt inserts in the wood instead of using screws so you can take the sub out and put it back in as much as you want without it degrading.
You might need xs power batteries or yellow top over those regular agm batteries for the voltage to be dead stable.
Some good ass content man
I got 2 Q Power deluxe 15 inch subwoofers on a 7000 watt power acoustic monoblock amp....been hitting hard over a year without even adding or upgrading nun...
Hook your old Agms see if voltage holds the same and if we can cut corners on the ultra cap
I'll look into it.
Same thing with the v6 2012 terrain I didn’t need a shorter belt but I have one just in case 2 years now and still don’t need it
I feel like once you’re in the 4 digits the equipment isn’t much more but all the supporting mods make it exponentially more expensive. I try to stay under 1000 watts. I’m comfortable pushing that power with my 150 amp stock alternator plus a single run of smaller wire is so much easier
Thanks for the imput.
I do like to see the big boy subs though
I got my H.O made by GP Car Audio. 367 amp for my 2013 Grand Caravan. Plug and Play. Things a beast. Took me about 2.5 hrs to swap em. Living in Canada it ended up costing me a Hell of alot. In total, 1,200 bucks. To me, it's worth it. HUGE difference. Currently building custom built to spec box for my BDC2s. Lol. 4 of them. Big box
In a caravan? you got a lot of room to work with 👌
@@BudgetBassHead Lol yessir. Removed the third bench seat.
1200 for an alternator??? Wtf? Just buy one for a quarter the price lmao. You can get a Mechman 400 for half that
@@sethh8892 mechman 370 for my truck is 600 usd, 130 duties, 70, shipping. 800 usd total which is around 1200 cad. Only thing holding me back is the steep price...
I would have looked for a dual terminal battery too
Brand X Electrical is a better alternative for high output alternators. Trust me. Very awesome products and prices.
Hell yeah. Much better brotha 👊👊👊
Yep. I'm liking it!
@@BudgetBassHead I knew you would my brotha. Have fun now with no worries is a great feeling. Did you install a Voltmeter for inside the car to let you know what your at all the time. It’s a great little thing to have.
@@xxPhoenixX-sg9tr well in that case I guess I got a little bit more money to spend 😉
@@BudgetBassHead lol. Yeah man. It’s pretty cheap though and easy to install yourself. I use the blue led Stinger. It’s great to have so you can keep and eye on your electrical system at all times. 👊
PLEASEEEEE try a Q power sub compared to skar? they have a very nice speaker for kinda cheap called the qpf 12. I have the 15 inch version and I can say for sure it takes rated power (600w RMS, 450 for the 12 inch) I would love to see it SPL tested, it's kinda rare to find on youtube but it sounds very clean. I think it competes with the skar SDR series but only costs around 70$... It's really a budget king if you ask me
I love you just ultra cap!!!
is your sub boxe sitting on top of something? does that improve sounds when its lifted ?
I miss the days when I could change the water pump, starter, alternator and plugs in 30 Mins. Can you turn your subs facing trunk you will get a harder beat!
Too tight a for a fit. Press up against the amps
14:20 why is your voltage fluctuating? Was the system playing?
Wow my upgrade is pretty similar... except I got the Mechman 400 and the D4S supercap bank and two of the XS 3400 Batts..you need power to make power!
Nice 👍
I tried to order that alternator but they dont offer anything for my little truck.. I have to either get mine rebuild with higher amp or order a expensive ass coustom built .. great video bro 🔊🔊👊🏼
Get autotech engineering
I'm sure someone on this channel will have some info for you. What kind of truck you got?
@@BudgetBassHead 1997 nissan xe pickup (hardbody-d21) 2.4 4-cylinder .. currently has a little 50-60 amp alternator ☹☹.
what was your thoughts on the ioxus ultracap? i bought 2 b stock 1s and i put 1 in my truck. so far no noticeable difference although the sub does look like its fully xmaxxing
Did this cause any computer codes and did you have to tune your pcm(smart charging system that turns your alternator on and off to save fuel by stopping charging once your battery is full and starts charging once your battery voltage reaches a certain level.
How bout that Ioxus ultrapacitor now with that alt?!?
13:00 did you try revving while burping? Btw I admire your editing skills. What software do you use? I use Power Director for my car audio UA-cam channel. 👍🏻
Great video 📹👍👏👌🙌😀
I'm glad you liked it
@@BudgetBassHead I have a friend with the same car. He got an alt upgrade also. The aftermarket alt had the stud and female connection opposite from the original. At which really it didn't matter if you're doing the big 3 or 4, but it appeared your mechman was the same as his aftermarket also. Did you notice any difference between the original and the aftermarket alt other than the smaller pulley?
pull your subs against the back of the trunk and retest the spl =)
It's too long of an enclosure to comfortably do it. They press against the amps.
Did it fix your voltage drop bro you never said that you never showed what your voltage was at the end of the video compared to stock alternator
I need one for an 04 Colorado 3.5, but no luck
Does the 18 Impala not have the ONBUS LINBUS electronics build like most newer cars my 19 Camry has it and it makes it almost impossible to upgrade my alternator it's really limiting me on my build and what's bad is I had the car for over a year I've already spent 4k on rims another 3k on the system and just when I get ready to upgrade I find out I can't touch the alternator without serious problems and voiding my warranty I really wish I would have known this sooner I should have went with another SUV
Damn a million grounds on that front battery
😅
Too much ain’t enough lol
So did the HO alt fix your voltage drop issues? I figured you’d test voltage like you did with the AGM and UC.
Steady @13+ with HO alt. Sometimes surges to 15+ Volts but quickly stabilizes. Still scary though.
@@BudgetBassHead 15 + ? Sheeeesh
Good video how about a video on American made car audio their is some still made here and maby an American subwoofer comparison don't thank I have ever seen a video on American car audio.
Sounds like a good idea for a new series. Thanks for the tip.😉
How come you never showed voltage drop ( or difrences) from one upgrade to the next, you did on the last ultracap vid, but didt show , or even say, if this added the stability to you voltage system that you were looking for.... It not... Cool video anyway thnx
I have a high output alternator 320 I’m running 2 12 skar audio zvx I have that hook up to my taramp 8k bass and I’m also running 4 tens for my highs there called bass rocker that’s hook up to my taramp 5k I have 2 car audio battery on it my problem is that when the bass hits it clips I have a pioneer radio too but the other day I notice the second battery I have under the hood is leaking and that’s a audio battery there called ds18 audio battery I have 3 battery total 2 ds18 audio battery’s and my main battery is a yellow top a lot of people keep saying it my ground but I have 2 grounds on my 8k and 2 power o gauge wire on the 8k there wire down to 1 ohm my amp says 1 ohm and my speakers say 1 ohm but my bass still clips when it hits hard been trying to fix that for the longest any idea
So what you think about a 300 amp brand x alt, 2 xs power d6500 and xspower 950 on rp3500 and rp 150.4
Sounds like you know your stuff 🙂You shouldn't be having any voltage problems
You never showed voltage drop lol. That was the whole reason I watched this. So I know it's been a while but did the mechman with the uc-31 fix your voltage at the amplifier? Thanks
I now only run McMahon with lithium and it works perfectly.
What was the voltage drop as you were playing music? I saw it started 15 V but what did it drop to as the music was playing?
Right. We want to know
Yup skar that's why
Test the Rockford p3d2
I need to get a bigger alt! That 340 mechman would be perfect for my build! I currently have a JS 250 alternator and 40 ah limitless lithium. But with my new 4th order build. It be pulling some juice out of my Taramps md 8k! So I will be getting a bigger alt soon! Great video! I've been watching your video's for awhile. You have came a long time ways!👍👊😎💯💨💨💨
Thanks for hanging in there with me. I'm trying to bring you guys more value!
I'm using a kicker 1600 amp to two kicker comp c 10 in , in a box I just built in a 85 f250 that has a 1970 boss mustang 🐎 motor , my question is do I need second battery or bigger alternator ? Thanks for any option, a video is in my channel
10:30 Imo I suggest NOT putting the stock lug on the new alt FIRST bcuz it's much smaller surface area however in your case since you already did the Big 4 and actually replaced the stock lug (I didnt but only added new wires for my Big 4) then yes I agree with B.B. but for those who have a smaller stock lug they never replaced, sandwiching that between the alt and the big new lug can cause a bottle neck in electron flow. Hence, "could" so why chance it. Especially if they have a h/o alt exceeding 250 amps and amps requiring every bit of it.
Extra amperage only matters after you have used up altinator and battery reserve voltage. If you extra power you need to raise voltage!!!.
Least yours is up top. My diesel Passat alt is sideways towards the bottom of the engine bay and it ain’t no room for a big brotha to squeeze in to get it without pulling all kinds of stuff out smh.
Hot water would have cleaned the copper better then any method you could think. It also cleans battery terminals. It doesn't need to be boiling. But Hot
This is my first time hearing this I got to try it in the future 👍
So did the alternator fix your voltage drop problem?
That's why we all watched. It's kinda like click bait
So what was your final voltage drop at amp with HO at and ultra cap installed ?
0.00 v
Yeah man swapping alts are way easier in SUV's !
Yes they are! I miss my '99 Durango!
Dont take the idler pulley off. It uses a spring crowbar it up remove belt.
He said it was in the way
So your giving them skar svrs 2000 watts each? I’m asking because I was planning on getting 2 of them, but I was gonna put them on a skar sk2500..
I didn’t read all of the subject. My fault. I see that is those are the vxf model.
4:48 what song is that ?!?
I have same ride w a 3.6 would the 240 amp Alternator work well too from mechman? I'm just thinking $$
O ya ....I order from LLJ CUSTOMS THE RCA ADAPTER W LC2I PRO AND O GAUGE EVERYTHING ,I WANT TO ADD Extra Battery Just DON'T Know Which One Too get yet
What was your voltage drop like after the upgrade?
I don't have those issues anymore
yep the alts are high but it takes power to make power and the alt companys know this thus far so thats wy the alts are so high
Just curious I'm about to do the same with the 370 I ordered from mechman. What brand and size belt did you switch to?
I have a video on that process. The Impala was fine with stock belt.
@@BudgetBassHead thank you. And keep the videos coming. I have the exact same car it's always good to see others process for ideas.
You can't just rev the engine up to test the belt. You need a LOAD on the alternator, which means you need to crank that bass up, then test the belt.
It took me 5hrs well a full day had to wait they gave me the wrong alt the whole production line was wrong every store was wrong but if yo have a 07 charger rt you know what im saying the time it takes you is what you take off and if you can
I have a question I have the same vehicle and I upgraded my alternator and did the big 3. But now I’m get over the dash ( Battery saver active) pls if you know anything about that pls message me back!
It means your battery has a low charge and car shutting down certain systems that’s draining your battery.
Hell yeah car audio is too expensive. But if done right budget builds will sound great and preform on the meter
Agreed!✌
Smaller pulley more rev per engine rev.
What was the voltage drop with the new alt?
Wow. Just noticed I didn't really focus on this. But yeah. It was a big improvement. Just not stable as I would like. I may have to couple the AGM with capacitor.
@@BudgetBassHead the voltage is the whole point of upgrading the electrical system lol
@@BudgetBassHead try running some lithium, agms are obsolete
Voltage readings? What were they? I have the same issue & similar system..
I'm thinking of running a 2nd 0guge power wire from alternator straight to the rear Batteries in hopes voltage shows better numbers , if that doesn't work I'll have to go with lithium. & if I do that, then I'll go all out with an upgrade on woofers & amp to 8k...
Alternator,then batteries then wiring then replace audio pipe for more effecient equipment...car stereo upgrades front to back... always.
Which amps would you refer?
love info and test, used to be a jl, Boston, and McIntosh audio person, but info that you provide, makes it one could build a high end sq build; without blowing a budget up and still be able to upgrade Eletric system. and gives more flexibility to how to build a system, one system that i started tp build was in a truck and it was 2000wattx1 @ 1 ohm, then a 1000 watt @4 ohm, plus a 200 watt @4 ohm for component speakers indoors. plus a 700 amp compacter, for a full skyar audio system with 2 10 under rear seat, rear doors, component speakers in front doors, and 3 1/2 in dash with bass filters. all for 1300 with all 0-gauge wire and big 3 upgrade, and 8 gauge wiring on subs, and 14-gauge wiring on speakers, any opinions?
Actually you will need more than the 320. Your car uses about 40% of altinator power especially at night. So if it comes with 100amp that leaves 60 amps. You have 4k watts bass not to mention highs amp. But that's 400 amps at full volume. You need atleast 400amp altinator. Cause I'm guessing total system juice is 500 - 550 amps. So if you have a 320 that's OK for mid volume but full you will need more for demos. So you will always be draining battery's if your altinator is less. 320amps don't cut it either for a 500 amp system if you listen for long periods at full which most don't. But if you have future problems still this is why. Also you can get a longer belt and with proper brackets you can run both at once. Food for thought 🤔🤔
Thanks for the tips
Y is the box side ways?
Wont fit
Not sure if you caught this or not but you didn't put the voltage meter on the back and let us see if the voltage dropped down to 11.5 volts as it did before. From the looks of it to me you need to wire everything up all over again making use of some bus bars to clean all that shared wiring stuff up. I'm a mechanic by trade and when I saw your positive terminal it made me cringe big time.
All that is under wraps as we speak. Thanks for the tips & Stay tuned 👍
That was the negative terminal with 10 wires
It helps. Don’t fix the problem.I have a 320 mechman ,xs power d6500 battery ,dual sky high runs to alt and big 4
Same here. I may have to add the AGM to capacitor.
@@BudgetBassHead I even swapped lights for leds. Little change.
Your car twerking! Lol
Does he sound like Steve Harvey to anyone else
I just installed a high output alternator and now i have rough rpm drops when the bass hits. voltage is steady vs stock but this rough rpm drop kills me at idle
Add a battery
@@dylanandersen9318 I have 2 batteries... added a 3rd same..... I suspect my idler pulley and tensioner is the suspect
Alternator putting to much of a strain on engine when regulating to keep voltage from dropping. This probably happens more when running your ac to I’m guessing. It’s just everything that runs off of the pulley or belt causes drag on your engine.
@@akame7433 I'm still going through it. I don't use my ac.... while driving yes. But doesn't happen while driving. I've exhausted all mechanical issues. Still same issue. Probably need to bypass the pcm
I'd sell the car if it was that difficult to access what would otherwise be an easy job on most cars. Over engineered vehicles are the cause of mechanics charging people far more.
The fact that you even mentioned or tried just an AGM battery or ultra cap without/before a high output alternator..... 🤦
Never again will I upgrade an alt! I had an upgraded alt that fried an engine control module and it cost 600 bucks to fix and thats only cause we knew someone at the dealer who gave us a deal to fix it. Id rather go with a lithium battery by xs power then mess with another alternator! XS Power lithium or northstar agm 220!!!
Thanks for the tip
I just put an X2 Power(Northstar rebadged for batteries plus bulbs) 24f under my hood. Seems great so far. Northstar is the real deal according to a couple install guys I talked to. 5 year warranty is nice for sure.
Now I have to figure out what supplemental source I want in the back. Another agm wired in parallel with an isolator or a dcdc charger, or maybe an ultra cap?etc etc. So much debate about it all...makes my head spin.