Alternator Shootout at Idle (136 vs 160 vs 250 amp)
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- Опубліковано 9 тра 2020
- I take 3 alternators, head to head at idle to show which one will perform better than the other at idle, and will also a 49mm alternator pulley on all 3 to see how much that helps to increase the voltage. I have been experiencing a lower than desirable voltage at idle ever since I installed the electric cooling fan for the radiator and the ATI super Damper with a 25% underdrive pulley.
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One thing I learned while working in auto parts, an alternator's amperage rating is given @ 2000 rpm. So when it comes to idle speed power production, all goes out the window, 160 amp alternator A will more than likely produce something different than 160 amp alternator B. Currently running the durango 160 amp alternator in my XJ and my volt meter hardly moves down off 14v even with my sub thumpin and my stereo blasting.
That’s impressive, my XJ will drop from 14-12v with just the AC fan coming on.
@@jordantrujillo293 the only way I can get my volt meter to hit 12v is by winching my Jeep up a long steep incline with 12-18" tall steps after blowing up my transfer case on the trail and getting no output to either axle, all the while runnin my instant pot to heat up dinner. 5000w power inverter + instant pot = everybody inviting you on every wheelin trip and offering to bring the food if you'll just bring the way to get it hot 🤣🤣
Martin: Thanks for these videos, you've saved me a lot of time in R&D on my 4.7's.
I'm glad my 49mm pulley calculations were correct. Seems the 160 has much better windings. I'll be employing your combo (AIRRAM/ATI, 49MM and 160).
Keep these coming
Right on
Good info. Some things need to perform at idle, like A/C when stuck in traffic.
Many thanks for your simple and very good explanation and alternators tests
Hey Martin thanks for your help earlier. I fixed my AC in an old jeep I bought. 2002 Overland. The compressor works fine! Just needed 134 a. Did the dye no leaks. Might be a small one at schrader valve. That all I saw. I was trying to find the low pressure sensor to jump it over but after recharge it works fine. Hubs and brakes r next! I will catch some more of your videos for that. Boy you r such a huge help. I have air tools too. Glad you are here!!
Glad it helped
This video demo is absolutely genius. Gives me the courage to swap out my crappy mini van's alt and slap a higher amperage to keep up with the car audio demands.
@therockkkkher not yet but i am about to. Will post the video soon my channel. I will be using alternator from a Nissan Caravan NV350 150A alternator or from a Mitsubishi Pajero 110A alts. I already bought these two and will fabricate steel mountings. Really soon my channel.
what you need my good sir is a big v3/v4 kit its a bigger AWG depending on what accessories you have like for an example i have aftermarket accessories like 2 mini light bars 2 600w amps 1200w alpine subs wheel well multi color led lights upgraded msd coil pack for wider spark plug gaps (.035) the vehicle manufacturers are the cheapest bastards and with that being said they run thin gauge wires from your alternator to battery and even battery ground as well as engine ground so simple solution is before you replace your alternator buy a big v3 kit for YOUR TYPE of vehicle install the kit DONT replace factory wire just put your new kit wire typically 0-4 AWG over your existing factory wire this will save you time and money by not having to buy another alternator because more then likely the factory AWG isnt letting the alternator produce the electric capacity its really capable of 🤟🏼🤟🏼👌
@@1.4tmechanicscruze61
Exellente point of view, allowed me to ask the questions & equipment
Should I do Only 3 big as you had suggested nor alternator & 3 Big.
I'm planing to hire a professional car Audio to do the job.
2018 CHEVROLET SONIC LT
HATCHBACK 4 DR
1.4L I4 F DOHC 16V
Amperage Output : 100 Amp
******"Equipment******"
JL Audio VX600/1i Amplifier
VX1000/1i Monoblock Class D Amplifier
DRC-205 Digital Remote Control for JLid
JL Audio 12W7AE-3Anniversary Edition W7 Series 12" 3-ohm subwoofer
Focal PS 165 FXEPerformance Series 6-1/2" Maximum power: 160W
Focal PC165F Flax 6.5”
Maximum power: 140W
Focal Elite Utopia M Tweeters
Maximum Power: 200W
Thanks 😊👍☕
I realize I'm pretty off topic but do anyone know a good website to watch newly released series online?
@Jeffery Julio lately I have been using flixzone. You can find it on google =)
U are a life saver
Been trying to find info on this but nobody did a video like this keep up the great work brother
Thanks, will do! Appreciate it!
This is completely new in my knowledge. Thank you Sr. You are the man Sr.
Glad to help
Thanks. I need to get a new alternator. Now I know to get the 160amp and the smaller pulley. Great video
Great work Martin, I was certain the 250 amp would be more than enough to level out the voltage, Glad you posted the video. Keep’em coming!
Glad you enjoyed it
It wasn’t a real 250 amp alternator. Amazon junk.
Thanks Martin that was very interesting as are all your videos I don't own a jeep but applicable to others. Keep up the good work and Hi from Australia.
Very scientifically done. Great job and very helpful information. Thank you for the work you put into your videos.
Thank you!
This is a great video, very clear and concise, no gimmicks, and thorough in all the right places while trimming bulk in all the other right places. Don't change a thing. New subscriber 👍
Have you done any tests with upgrading the 'Big 3' vs OEM connections? I haven't been able to find any video showing the objective difference between stock and upgraded cables.
Thank you so much I really appreciate that and thank you for subscribing. 🙂👍
Thanks Martin. This is actually something I've been curious about, because I'm considering doing a cargo van conversion, with electrical system.
I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful 👍 😊
video very helpful. I now realize i fried my alternator driving city speeds with all accesories on plus a 1500w amp.
Awesome video, Thanks for the shoot out!
Thank you, glad you liked it.
Thanks for fine detail explanation & chill attitude. I had watched twice your post
Glad you enjoyed it! 😊
Great video and Mopar to boot. I killed my battery this past weekend running headlights, fuel pump and fans at idle waiting to get into a car show. You gave me plenty of great info.
Thank you, I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful. Hope you did well at the car show.
Good comparison. Your under drive crank is really hurting the output. Keep in mind that the alternators cooling fans are also turning slower, more heat
Great video. As noted by another viewer, the slower rpm speed will have a dramatic effect on the alternator. Of course you proved that by installing a smaller diameter pulley. Also, the vehicles computer may also have an effect, the type of battery, & the age of the battery itself may have an effect. I had a 2015 Chevy cargo van that would cause voltage drops from the stock alternator. I called the dealership, asking if this was normal, & they said yes. I further inquired as to why, and it was explained to me that it was part of the fuel economy system. Certain times when I was going up a incline/ hill, the computer would cut off the alternator in order to reduce HP drawn on the engine, which helps with fuel economy. This would also happen with the air conditioner in the summer time. Also noted by another viewer was to perform the big three upgrade. Especially if you are installing a higher current output alternator. Your stock electrical wiring is generally rated for the current demands from the electrical system. Car manufacturers only give you what you need. Nothing more.
Nice video Martin. This is Scott’s brother from Louisiana. I hear all kinds of martinbuilt stories. 👍👍
Oh Brother...thank you so much for this video! You just saved me a lot of money. I'm not a mechanic in the least, but
I find myself in the market for a new alternator, knowing absolutely zilch about them. The video I watched here on youtube just before watching yours told me outright to buy the biggest alternator I can afford and not to worry about it, that it has no ill affect on my vehicle whatsoever. And, that way I would be prepared for any added electrical add ons in the future. I was shocked to see these results of your. It was like watching Goldilocks' Garage....not too cold, not too hot, but just right! Liked and subscribed...
I use your videos for my 99 Jeep GC Limited 4x4. These are great!
Glad you like them!
Awesome demo and general info on those alternator tests. Thanks 😊
Thank you I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful. 😊
Nice video. You could also upgrade your charging and ground wires to help with the load. I am into car audio and upgrading the charging and ground wires make a huge difference as well.
Thanks for the tips!
The wires should be thicker right?
@joshsmith9 no, but it allows more power to be utilized more easily. It's like the difference of trying to breathe though a straw verses a paper towel roll.
Great video. I just put a chrysler 320 Amp 200 at idle JS Alternator on my 2.4L 2016 Jeep Renegade Trailhawk. I had a 160A stock but now my MPG has gone up from 32highway to 38 to 41 and my voltage is 14.3 at my cigar outlet with AC on max and fan running.
Thanks for the video.
According a few wj owners the pcm quits regulating the voltage at some point...some of them even junked their wj's for not knowing what to do...but the few that kept the wj just installed a voltage regulator fixed at 14.3...but it has an adjustment screw on the back to increase or decrease...i bougth one from alternatormen...end of problem..cheers!
I will look into that, thank you!
Thanks for this video. I've got a 2001 Land Rover Discovery 2 (L318) with a 4.0L Thor engine and a stock 120A alternator. A 2001 Land Rover Range Rover (P38) with a slightly bigger 4.6L Thor engine with a stock 150A alternator.
Many Discovery 2 owners have stated that the Range Rover 150A alternator is adaptable to our Discovery 2s.
Thanks for your experiments showing the differences. Cheers from a 'Murican in the UK!
Nice Buick
Thank you so much for making this video so informative
Glad it was helpful!
You may also try this with a multimeter on the alternator post. Ive found that any digital guages plugged into the obd2 port usually display lower than what the actual voltage output of the alternator is. Id check at the alt post, battery post and the input post of the junction box. Scan tools also display lower than actual voltage. Also anytime ive done a h.o. alternator i replace the lead from the alt to battery and to the junction box with heavier guage ofc wire like 2 gauge. That always seems to improve things. 8 and 10 gauge with fusible links can only allow so much current at a time. Great vid keep em comin.
Very interesting, thanks for the education Martin !
My pleasure!
Great video… I accidentally came across your channel and I have subscribed… Good stuff…Very informative
Thank you I appreciate that. And thank you for watching and subscribing.
Good information!
I wouldn't have thought the 160 would out preform the 250
I think the 160 is star wound and the 250 delta
Great video Martin! I’d love to see a repair video on the blend doors, or one on how to repair the heated seats🤙🏼
Interesting about the idle speed... Getting ready to put an '04 Sequoia alternator in my '06 IS250. Thanks for the great vid! God bless...
Thank you. I'm glad you liked it and found it helpful. Good luck with your upgrade.
Thanks for the video I was just thinking about changing my alternator
Glad I could help
Me too I got 7k watts im trying to feed.
martinbuilt can I get a link on the 250
@@Bigv57thG and here is another link
Eagle High Fits 250 Amp Alternator Dodge Dakota V6 3.7L 226cid 2004-2006 Dakota V8 4.7L 285cid 2005-2006 amzn.to/3dBWW7E
First put bigger charge wire on alt 4awg or bigger
Great vid, just what I needed to know...
Glad you liked it!
Lots of efforts in this video
Wow that was really cool bro. Hell that's a lot of time for us.
Thank you i'm glad you like it.
great video man thank you for the feed back. i am a subscriber now
Thank you I really appreciate that. And thank you for subscribing.
Excellent research my friend !!
Thank you, Well appreciated
thanks uncle..so that means im going to small pulley to my 120a upgradble altenator..done subcribed
Thanks for the sub!
Very useful testing.
Thank you 😊
Great video. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Doing the Lord's work.
great video
Thanks for all of your videos! I am soon to do the heads on my 02 dodge ram 1500 with a 4.7. I was just wondering the other day if I could upgrade the stock 136 amp alternator to a 160 amp with no problems. I think this answers my question. The reason for the upgrade would be because I have a warn M-8000 winch & it bogs down real bad when I use it. I have been binge-watching your videos so I can learn more about what is in store for me ahead. Hey, thanks a lot for the wealth of knowledge, you have made this back yard mechanic a lot more confidant. Just subbed.
Thank you, that is when you need a bigger alternator for those high amperage accessories like winches and audio system. The 160 should help out and you may what to install the 49mm pulley.
Glad I ran into this video. Had the same issue when upgrading to a higher amp alternator. The idle performance was just horrible. With a full load it started to dip in the 10s with voltage. Accessories would sound slower and the all the lights on dash would flicker a bit if already illuminated (but was fine higher RPM). This was after I have done my big 3 upgrade. Luckily I still had my previous alternator and decided to slap that back in. 14 Volts across the board sometimes hitting 13. Returned the High amp alt and got my funds back. Not sure what my current alternator puts out as I had a shop replace my older one but just wanted a bit more amp headroom for the equipment I am running.
So you think 250 amp isn’t good?
@@Sip28 didn’t say that. I Probably had a defective alternator or wrong pulley size. Not to long ago I purchased a 200amp powermaster, so far so good! 96 E150 5.8l V8
@@gmax341 I had power master too but isn’t the idle amperage 130?
@@Sip28 yes that’s correct. My idle at warm is around 500-600rpm
@@gmax341 130 too low for me. I need idle to be be at least 180amp
Greatly Informative and Soo Helpful! Thank You!🇺🇸👍
Thank you, glad you liked it.😊👍
I saw elsewhere on YT that high amp (aftermarket) alternators get their amperage from rewiring the windings in the stator from series to parallel (or vice versa). High rpm performance is improved at the cost of low rpm performance.
Depends what company, i just bought a 320a from autotech engineering that puts out 170ish at idle(650rpm)
very well done test thanks
Glad you liked it!
Huh, that's interesting. I thought for sure the 250 would have given you the best results. Great vid as always 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
It's the way they wire the high amp alternators to get that amperage. Performs better at higher rpms, but at a cost to low rpm oerformance.
Great video, thanks for making it
Thank you I really appreciate that.
No vid.i like the approach not much not to lil...and great knowledge. Well laid out video...nice and smooth!!! Keep it up!!!
Thank you, I will, I appreciate that
Great movie! And as always inspiring, no one does it on UA-cam (!). But what about belt tension? Maybe it's worth starting a larger pulley somewhere else - to get the same tension? And I wonder what will happen adding a large capacitor (used for high power car audio amps). Great work, thanks!
Excellent comparison, Ive got an older Chevy with a 5.7, my alt output with my a/c and electric fan on it pulls it down to 11.9 volts. Now I just gotta find at minimum a 130 amp alt, ive found a 200 amp, but have always thought that was to much anyways,
Ya, my ZJ has electric fan, stereo and the stock alternator can't handle it when I have accessories on. Thanks for the video. I'll think about a 160 and a 49mm for sure
let me know how it works out.
Good test.
Glad you liked it!
Great video! It would be useful to make a table at the end with comparing avg. results for all 3 alternators on different loads :) Style Project Farm
Thanks!
Great suggestion! I'll work on that and place it in the description.
I swear I am not some shill for the company, but you have to check out Mechman alternators. I have a 6.0 Powestroke (with fully upgraded wiring for + and -) truck that absolutely eats alternators due to the plowing and really low idle / 3.5k maximum RPMs. Those things actually deliver real idle output and they even come rated and pretested at Idle and running speeds. I've installed them on every truck I own barring one junker van. Your video absolutely made me feel better about spending $500 on a 320 amp alt from them. Plus no need to run a smaller pully unless you wanted to.
Thanks. I have both a 130 amp and a 200 amp alternator for my Ford.....and neither put out enough at idle....in drive at a stoplight, to maintain the battery with 'winter' stuff on, like heater blower, headlights and defogger..... Will try the smaller pully.
Sounds good, it worked out good for me.
Awesome good job
Thank you 😊
what you need my good sir is a big v3/v4 kit its a bigger AWG depending on what accessories you have like for an example i have aftermarket accessories like 2 mini light bars 2 600w amps 1200w alpine subs wheel well multi color led lights upgraded msd coil pack for wider spark plug gaps (.035) the vehicle manufacturers are the cheapest bastards and with that being said they run thin gauge wires from your alternator to battery and even battery ground as well as engine ground so simple solution is before you replace your alternator buy a big v3 kit for YOUR TYPE of vehicle install the kit DONT replace factory wire just put your new kit wire typically 0-4 AWG over your existing factory wire this will save you time and money by not having to buy another alternator because more then likely the factory AWG isnt letting the alternator produce the electric capacity its really capable of 🤟🏼🤟🏼👌
Man I wish you lived in South Florida. Gotta change out one of my lifters, got a slight tick going on. Just changed the valve covers last weekend.
Nice info Martin thxs......
No problem 👍
nice job!
Thank you 😊
I guess I think 4 things (great video BTW): your belt drive system is underdrive to start, none of the alternators perform well at 600RPM (luckily I don't drive at 600 RPM), and the 136 AMP was working hard under any circumstance, and I agree, the 160amp was best balance between $ and performance, although I am curious about reliability and life.
Great video.
Thank you
Thank you for that, I’ve been upgrading these on different vehicles for years and never knew a 160 would ever outperform a 250 all things being equal (idle rpm). Never do the builders mention any of that useful info.
No problem 👍glad I could help.
Right wonder why is it the opposite?
You should do a big 3 upgrade on you charging system wiring! With a larger alternator your bottle necking the power flow of the high out alternator!
exactly what i suggested that could save people a lot of money by not having to buy another alternator they could just install a big 3 kit a lot of people don't know about it and end buy a bigger voltage alternator and have the same problem basically your factory wire is not producing the electricity that your alternator can really put out DONT UPGRADE ALTERNATOR UPGRADE AWG lol
@@1.4tmechanicscruze61 where can I buy it
thats not the issue here, its the low alternator speed. the only fix is reducing pully size. just because you have a H/O output alternator doesnt mean you will get higher voltage at low RPM. H/O alternators actually need higher speeds to reach their regulated voltage.
@@alexanderk6512 but even if you reduce pully size and get more amps, the factory wire cannot support the increased amps. Upgrade the wire size. 1/0
Great Vid!
Thank you
I have been working for long time on alternator the hair pins has double stator plus very small pulley you can have good results
I think that underdrive pulley really hurts your charging from your alternators wonder if the 250 amp would do allot better with correct speed compared to the 160amp
What I found out that pissed me off was it seems buying high amp alternators generally charge less at idle speed then your stock alternator. they charge more when wound up but idle speed is critical if you drive in any kind of daily traffic.
From my understanding, alternator output is stated at 3600rpm. Idle will be dramatically lower hence the need for a battery. A battery is your fuel tank. Your alternator will replenish your battery while driving and do what it can at idle. A 160 alternator will output only 65-70 amps at idle with the stock pulley. Electric cooling fans can pull 30-40 amps alone. Really need that battery capacity to be available as much as an alternator ready to replenish it.
I had the same problems with my blend doors !!! Changed everything out and still had the same issues !! I thought I knew what that sound was... Had to laugh when you confirmed it. 😂🤣
yeah the previous owner had the blend doors replaced and they still do it, I've heard it is a Grand Cherokee thing. I just live with it.
Where was the AMPERAGE reading? Did I miss the critical unit of measurement ( as in the video title)?
Good video!
Glad you enjoyed it
tech tip I have learnt it's not just voltage you look at but also amperage as well
Thank you sir. I have a current stock alt 120a on a 05 suburban. Turns out the alternator that I was going for was a bigger due to audio system. Turns out I got it tested and one of the diodes is bad so I need a bigger output alt. Question is at idle this bad alt for a few days drains battery and all sorts of mess because your under the 12v. Any recommendations guys. Plz. Ac blenders are not working. Compressor is needing a new one and I will have to save up to buy one. Audio System taken off immediately. Just didn’t know about the pulleys at idle. Thanks. Advice please. I want to put back my system after everything fixed that’s if it hasn’t damaged any other electrical components already. 😔 I have my autistic 5 year old daughter and need a/c usually at idle while waiting on doc appointments. Please if you have advice share it with me.
very interesting !!!
would be curious to see the actual current load on the system while turning those items on one at a time. i always thought 14.4v was what the alternator puts out, that is what all of mine are anyways. then the based on the load and the gauge of the wires versus the alternator's max current is at any given rpm will determine voltage drop. if your cables from the alt to the battery and ground are too small for the load the voltage will drop, and waste energy in the form of heat on the conductors.
Very cool.
Check the idle solnoid activity, check battery cells, clean all ground n earth sockets n contactors upgrade all grounds to higher gage wire , finally check or replace voltage regulator n the belt
Some alternators dont seems to charge untill a certain rpm. Say 1200 rpm, glad you tried the smaller pulley
Mr Electron
Lower voltage means more amps, that's why alt was so hot. putting out amps to get back to voltage set point
GOOD TO KNOW MAN THANKS
No problem 👍
Great demo video, I want to know by adding up more amp from the alternator will it effects the components Like Ac , high beam , signal lights and Radio. And other electronic parts in the car tq
Thank you, the alternator will not put out more amperage just because it has a higher amperage alternator it is only gonna put out what is required of the electrical system.
Мужик молодец, полезный контент пишет!
I noticed you had the 180 amp alternator listed in your dropdown. Did you decide not to test the 180 amp model?
Hey, i Have a question im hoping you could answer pertaining to my alternator and audio system
All three alternators appear to be following the same pattern.
The ECM may be controlling the charge profile based on the stock design. If that is the case then when using a high output alternator you’ll need to program the ECM to match it.
With the 250 amp alternator, where is the excess amperage going?
How many Amps are being produced at idle?
What is a good one at low RPM? Im trying to build a peddle bike battery charging generator.
I just rebuilt my 100 amp OEM Toyota hairpin, with better OEM parts from a Dodge Durango to better cope with the 800+ amp draw it receives in my car. Larger 12 - 50 amp diode rectifier plate vs 6- 35 amp, 1.8 ohm rotor, and re- configured the stator to do 240 Amps. It is an improvement from the 2.2 ohm rotor, and 6 diode plates factory. Still not happy with idle output, I bought another new denso 160a stator, tore it down again(solder joints @ the rectifier plates were a bitch) and after the new stock stator, I have a very stable 155+ amps at cold dead idle with a small pulley. Actually pretty good for a small case.
I'll upload a video later this next week, I have a genuine denso regulator that has a higher base voltage setpoint(14.5 vs 13.6v) with temperature compensation on the way. When that's installed, I'll make a video of it clamped at full temp. I plan on a large case DC power unit(XP270 - 220a hot idle 270+ at speed. It'll take a while to get here. For now, and playing with this small case, learning about the difference in parts, and how easy it is to make an OEM home built - high output alternator yourself, its actually incredibly easy. I even devised a way to have variable voltage control on the fly from inside with a variable 6k ohm resistor. I really should make a tutorial on the next build. It's fun doing it yourself, I even painted the case when it was apart, even looks like a professional aftermarket unit.
I'll get something real good posted here soon. No reason why others can't build a very high quality unit of their own as well.
Thanks for posting, it confirms my exact experience, and upon research and finding this video, I know after all the work again tearing it apart, it was ultimately the right choice for down low power.
You da man!
great explanation, thanks so much ..!!!!
Do you guys know about autotechengineering they have alternators for imports like the 10th gen Honda Civic
will I be ok with 136 on xj no air I got the pulley and tensioner too. Im moving it up. deleted air.
excellent
Thank you 😊
Do you have vids which actually measure the amperage draw with something that can pull 250 amps for example amplifier vs what the alt can put out? Volts are one metric yet amps
What about if you had a 95 lt1 z28 , with a 2 000 watts amp turned up . What should I go with??
Hey martin ,nice comparitive testing.iam owner of 2002 grand limited and it has the quad 2 /44 diffs in it.because it reguires friction modifers in it.what gear oil do you top off urs with.i really dont feel like a trip to dealership to get it done.plus with covid shutdown they might not even be open.dont have an issue just want to refresh fluids.!!all help appreciated.glad to see ur still putting out content.keep gearing snookie pa.