Do You Really Need An Extra Alt? The Importance Of High Output Alternators.
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- Опубліковано 7 сер 2021
- Quick explanation of why most in car audio Really Need An Extra Alternator. The Importance Of High Output Alternators can be the difference between a great sounding audio system and a crappy sounding audio system. Leave a comment if you have any input on this subject.
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Tags:
#Mechman #AftermarketAlternator #HighoutputAlternator #XSPower #Supercapacitor #UC31 #Super Capacitor #SkarAudio #VXF12 #IOXUS #UStart #AGMBatteries
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There's no way someone hasn't told you that you sound like Steve Harvey 😁👍🏾
I just want to tell you how much I appreciate everything you do for all of us out here in Audio Land ….
Thanks for tuning in. I appreciate you guys as well 👍
When I first subscribed, I wasn't sure you knew what you were talking about. But every time I watch, you are on point. Alternator is a power supply, a battery is a storage. That in itself should generally tell a story about what is needed.
Thanks for tuning in 💯
I’m 18 and in college I have a passion for car audio although I can’t afford much in it yet I love learning about it equally. You have a lot of knowledge and tips in your videos. I just wanted to say thanks for sharing your passion with the rest of us keep it up
Just in time, I needed this.
Singer, mechman, pure power, there's def good stuff available out there. Mechman and singer are def among the best far as I know. My first ho alt was a pure power from a company in Arizona. It worked great for over a yr and still worked fine when I switched it for a mechman. They both put out + - 100 amps at idle. The mechman is quieter, so far anyway. I'd add two alts but damn my whip is already slow as hell 😒 good stuff man keep em comin
Great information ,Maryland showing ❤️
Thanks for tuning in 👐
Trying to run a jp23 on a 90amp alt isn’t the most happy system rn still hit’s pretty good but can tell I’m not getting that 2,300 plus watts out of it so that Ho alt is top of the list rn
😂I'm running a Jp23v2 on a 130 amp alternator & my voltage is crazy @ Loud volumes 😢
Another classic car audio class 👌
Glad you like them!
That makes so much sense now!
agree. i did the big 3 in my system that i'm building. but i'm not doing any batteries or anything until i get that aftermarket alternator.
W
Thank you! I watched 4 other videos before this one and they were no help.
The answer is......yes, yes I do. I went with Singer.
Singer is known to be AAA
Yep I've heard great things about that brand.
The guy is awesome
i currently got a 100A alternator with 100A of subs and 75A of mid's and high's.. and during demo's... i'm impressed that the 100A alternator is keeping 13.5 volts at MAX volume... i only got a single 60 AH "AGM" (it's start-stop battery but not exactly AGM but still better than lead acid)
Bro I thought this was voiced by Steve Harvey for a min 🤣
Didn't notice it until I read your ur comment 😂😂😂😂😂
I'm no professional but all 98% of all systems need is a HO ALT, A bigger battery and high quality Wiring. I was able to run close to 3500 Watts with just that. I didn't have extra batteries, i didn't have a cap. All i had was an Alt that could keep a higher capacity battery charged and very good wiring. If your wiring is not high quality, you'll lose voltage. I was right around 14.4 pretty much all the time. That HO Alt is number 1. You need the battery to keep the watts available for the amp to pull. I'm not sure behind the science, but i never used CCA. I used expensive pure copper and i cut the wire to make sure it had strands and wasn't thick insulation. If i pay for zero gauge. I need to see zero of gauge
Crossover the dayton audio's😅. Ty for the great vid !!
Any time!
can you do a bass test with a crossfire c3 12"? $99 sub that should stack up pretty well against most of the list especially in that price range. (d4s sells them)
I have a extra 130 amp alt. That I took out of my SUV before I scraped it. I was thinking of adding it to my engine to dedicate it to just run my amp. Will this work or will i also need batteries to go on that also? The only thing connected to the alternator will be just the power wire going to the amp.
I want another thats where you will struggle unless you have a common car like the Tahoe
I got myself an h.o. alt last year for my 2013 grand caravan. Stock was 165amp. H.O. 367 amp. Got it made by G.P. Car Audio. Cost me a shitload but was well worth it. I need another battery tho. One extra 1010 cca deep cycle right now. Need more power!!! Lol
🤘👐
Good to hear something about GP. They have little to no online presence and are one of the only people that make an alt for my car
Yup batt and Alt first. But to many are just focused on brand names and equipment they can’t power.
Boss... Just Wanna Ask... Does The High Amp Alternator Can Be Used For The Standard Car That Does Not Have Poweramp? Can It Cause The Damage On Battery?
Imm running a k03 at 2ohm on stock system, have a 17 continental. I think the alternator is a 250amp.
Would a 1000w capacitor give me a similar outcome?
Unfortunately I burnt up my alternator so when the time came I got a mechman and xs power agm, but if I could go back I'd get a singer so I didn't have to mess with the smaller pulley of the mechman
I didn't know that because I was going to get a mechman and deal with getting a smaller belt checking out stinger now
Brandx electrical also has a good rep in the sq community
Singer also has better customer service overall 💁
As far as messing with a different sized pulley? Pay careful attention to the routing of the stock belt, most cars have a sticker under the hood showing the proper routing. With that in mind install the new alternator making sure that the belt tensioner isn't maxed out. Some tension methods utilize an idler pulley mounted on a spring loaded arm, while some have a long bolt mounted to the alternator bracket itself that allows for adjustment. Now all you have to do is wrap a heavy cord (para cord work good) around the path of the belt to get a fairly accurate measurement. One word about the idler pulley system, it has to be tied back so that it's not maxed out leaving enough swing to tension the belt.
You will have the smaller pulley and belt with all aftermarket high output alt. Simply because that’s the design of how to get high output at lower rpms. The alt needs to spin faster to produce that high output. And regardless of who makes it it will work the alternator much harder and shorten the life of it that’s just a trade off for the better performance of stock alternators.
Alright question, I have a older infiniti from 2001 and the alt is a 90 amp stock, my question is if 180 would be enough because its the only one that says is "compatible for my car" wouldnt a universal alternator that pushes 230 amps work for it?
The other thing is that when I use my ac it dims my lights big time and even without the ac on I see them drop but what's worse is that just the cooling fan for the radiator causes my lights to dim so that's why I wonder if I should get a universal 230amp for when those other things need to run
How can I contact you about my build
I have a music system 2 car battery’s 3 amps and My car turns off while running when it’s too hot or I just have the music loud ?
1rst: big 3, 2nd: alternator, 3rd: extra battery. In that order
I went for the batteries first and now the amp drop is maybe worst than it started(exaggerating a smidge)
I'd like to go lithium with my setup, I have 2 Skv2-3500's on almost 400ah of AGM and a JS240a Alt, I still drop down to 12.3v here and there but they dont make a bigger alt for my car (2011 Jetta SE). I'd like to shed the weight and atleast have the same or better power capacity. I was going to get Limitless 6K or build a bank myself and get a Supercap to take the place of my stock battery.
If you need any ideas for a future video, this could be an idea to hit on. (Building a bank and where you got the supplies)
Is that 240a at idle?
202A at idle.
@Raymo_2_u Great ideas. Thanks
Singer has 225a at idle for our vws
400ah worth of agms and you still drop to 12.3 and what's crazy is 1 45ah C-Max charging at 15.4v and you wouldn't even drop below 14.8v at full tilt and you would shed like 250lb in battery weight
Did you have to delete the fusible link in the Alternator cable that connect to the battery?
No. And I replaced the stock ground with zero gauge.
What about if I only have an 800-Watt kicker class D on my 2 12 inch s series alpines with my factory head unit... so I still need an up sized alternator?
Good question. Check for voltage drops; that's the most sure way to know.
Thank you
Big 3 should be first electrical upgrade once pushing 1000 watts rms is general consensus no?
Good point👍
Yes, and 1000 rms is about the most I would put on a stock alt/battery combo.
I got a 1200 watt amp. 150 amp alternator big 4 and yellow top battery. My volt stay around 13.8-14.3. Do I still have to upgrade my alternator?
No. If you don't fall below 13 volts you don't need it.
Exactly with my system. My voltage stays at 13.8 when I'm banging my system.
Where did you get those headway cells from
Battery Hookup. They the best source I've seen.
I need one for 1995 z28
Remember your also not going to get anywhere near the full output till your cruising at a steady rpm without shifts like on the highway. My 200a is MORE than enough for my 2000W RMS amp plus it even has enough to charge my huge battery bank. Remember your amps aren't drawing constant amps, they only do it when the beat hits or you turn them mids up loud...etc. This is why batteries are more important. Getting a good power storage like lifepo4 with a large capacity with a 150a alt is going to be WAY better than a 300a alt with a bunch of crummy agm's or lead acid batteries.
Yep
I dont know. My car has an 80A factory alternator. So i put a small stereo system in the car, Orion 3000.1DHCCAsplx, two skar 12s. I had a new AGM under the hood, added a matching AGM in the trunk. I noticed lights dimming bad, and it didn't sound like it was making much power. I ran it like this for a year, then bought a 325A High Output alternator and it was like the output of the sound immediately doubled. The HO alternator was the cheap way out I guess, it was only 600.00, lithium would have cost more and the 80A alt wouldn't have charged it i dont think
@@Hammerback0 This just isn't the case. With proper wiring and a dc-dc charger battery storage will win bro. Subs bumping takes a long time to drain a lithium battery. It's going to be way closer to the amp needing huge pulses of power. An 80a alt and 40a charger with a 100ah battery will let you bump all day pretty much.
@@Stoner916sac Did you run directly from the alternator to the lithium bank ?
@@rmyrie5963 Nah. Through a charger first. DC to DC charger I built myself. Keeps the output voltage @14.6 precisely.
So here's a question for you. I'll give a bit of background first. I live in northern Alberta, where it is sometimes -40 C in winter and often colder than -30C. I once had a my alternator die and the car died on the highway once the battery went dead. I called a tow truck that was on the way, quite ready to get it towed and repaired. Unfortunately, some "old fogie" decided he was going to help me. He pulled his truck up in front of my vehicle and, because it was still dark out in the morning as it is in winter in the north, he thought the headlights of a vehicle far behind me was my car. He put his truck in reverse and stomped on it like there was no tomorrow. He backed into my car at high speed, knocking it back 25 feet and the car was a total write off. You can imagine how livid I was. He destroyed a perfectly fine vehicle that just needed a new alternator.
Now, I have an older 2006 Chevy Malibu. I'd like to replace the alternator whether I need it or not just to avoid this kind of incident again. I don't have a high output sound system but since it is so cold in winter, I am wondering if a high output alternator would keep the battery charged better and charge it faster when you start the car in the cold. Often, when you start your car at -40 degrees, the engine turns over but is sluggish. It fires and then you are "good" as soon as the engine fires up. It is hard on an engine as I am sure the alternator is running at maximum output. Initially, the battery barely has any charge at that cold temperature until the the alternator charges it up once the car is running. If you leave a car parked for a week when it is -35 C, sometimes it won't start at all until you put a trickle charger on it and charge up the battery.
What are your thoughts?
All alternators die eventually; even an high output alternator. It's only special because of its ability to supply more amperage. Other than that, its just an alternator. The main focus should be maintenance of your car's components, regardless of its age. Read the owner manual, and learn the intervals of what to maintain and when to get them serviced. Then contact a dealer or auto shop and purchase a maintenance plan. I personally have Pep Boys. Hope that helps
Most vehicles run using 35-45 amps. Add headlights (halogens) 8-17 more amps, you're in the 43-62 range. Average stock alternator is 80-120 amps. Generally a car will have an alternator that produces twice the amperage needed to run everything in the vehicle. Just do some research on your vehicle before you start putting any aftermarket components in and electrical should always be where you start.
What manufacture is giving you an alt like that? Please share because I personally haven't seen it before. But it would be good info for the community.
@@BudgetBassHead I should have been a little clearer in my comment. the basic things needed to run a car, fuel pump, instrument panel, radiator fan, coil packs/distributer are generally 35-45 amps. You throw in AC, windshield wipers, heater fan, window defrosters, heated seats all at the same time you'd be in that 75-80 percent range. In my bass van I don't use a lot of that stuff. Certainly not all at once. It had a stock 105 amp alt and only needs about 40 amps to run. That's why I said do your research on your vehicle and decide from there what you need. If you're putting a system in your daily driver your needs are going to be different than someone with a vehicle that only goes to shows. Sorry for the lack of clarity in my previous post.
@@BudgetBassHead I had a 2004 Corolla that had an 80 amp alternator, my 2008 Focus has an 130 amp stock alternator.
Has anyone installed a High Output Alt on a 2013 terrain? I'm looking for advice
Thanks for the tip. I'll revisit this at some point; with this in mind.
Never run stock especially when you are adding more of a load on your electrical system.
👍
My Crown Vic Interceptor came stock with a 200 amp alternator...just sayin'...
If running additional battery/batteries, it's a good idea to have them wired to an "isolator relay". With this, your car's starting battery will only be used for the car, second battery will be only for audio system, yet both will be charged by the alternator.
Never looked into those. You got me interested.
I bought the NVX 500 amp isolator but decided not to use it because I wanted the power of two batteries with the car off. I figured as long as I don't play it really long with the car off I wouldn't need the isolator. Plus even if you do kill your batteries with the car off if you let them rest awhile you most likely will be able to start the car...something to do with the hydrogen gas that built up on the carbon rods dissipating after a bit.
@@steveharley2021 great info I really appreciate it.
@@steveharley2021 I'm using that same 500A relay to isolate my Optima red top under the hood from the the 2 100ah AGMs in the back. Works great! An Excessive Amperage 300A alternator keeps everything charged up.
You always sound like Steve Harvey. You should change your YT channel to Steven Harvey the basshead!
😄
😂😂 why you sound like steve harvey
Playing the intro twice in the middle of the video was annoying
Damn bro that’s all u got
I dig the videos...Im glad there is someone willing to take the time and money it take to make these very informative videos. One of my favorite channels.