For a guy like me that needs all the help he can get, you definitely helped me with my 2006 Ford Ranger AC clutch replacement. Excellent narration and showing of details. Thanks so much!
you just earned another sub with this video. This has to be one of the most well made repair videos I have ever seen on youtube. Precise, to the point, and the full breakdown was amazing. I will be effecting this repair soon, and I have no reservations about performing it at all now.
Thanks Bro, I have been turning wrenches my hole life and never got around to change an AC clutch, I don't know how I did that LOL but thanks for the info. It helped me alot to do it right. works light a bran new one.
I have just done this job on a 2007 NISSAN PATROL, The clutch is rubbing when switched off. I just found the shims thanks to you , now i can fix what i fixed before, thanks to your video. thank you. The magnet has 3 screws holding it on the Nissan, everything else is the same. Thanks again.
Great video using the proper methods. The one thing I would add is an explainer for the inexperienced. When tapping a press fit with a hammer start slow and make sure you are straight. If you are not straight stop tapping. This guy has done a ton of pulley installs and has a good feel for it. You are better off taking the pulley off and starting again if its cocked. Forcing an even slightly cocked pulley onto a shaft is entering a world of pain. I have entered that world before when I was starting out and you don't want it.
For anyone using this as a reference for a 2007 Expedition, or similar, the coil is held on by a snap ring.Remove snap ring, and the coil comes right off. Thanks for this video, my AC clutch was just as bad as this one.
Honestly one of the most informative, and detailed videos on EXACTLY what I wanted to see that I've ever encountered. Great work on the production quality and quality of work. Seriously impressive. NOW... how hard is it to do without removing the compressor? Lol
Doable, but more difficult. There are lots of videos. I found the best way to get things that are stuck (and almost certainly things *will* be stuck) freed is dousing them with penetrating lubricant, such as Free All, giving them some time and tapping. And use heavy duty snap ring pliers. The typically cheap toys are way under-gunned.
This is one of the few videos that pop up via google search for a fs10 motocraft ac pump, so I am going to lay this out simply. If you have it on a bench do it just how this vid shows you. If you are doing in your vehicle (mustang in my case) do it like this: Remove belt Disassemble clutch with 8mm socket Unplug the ac clutch AND crank position sensor and move harness out of your way Unbolt AC lower it down do no let it "tug" on the lines Remove snap ring My pulley was SMOKED had 2 bearings left and was pretty much unhooked from the bearing race/sleeve on the pump snout Try to walk your pulley off if it doesnt have much or any play, should slide off easy If needed use a 2 or 3 jaw puller with a center cup or the factory bolt over the pump drive You cant pull the coil and the pulley at the same time especially if you're replacing both anyway. Use break clean a scotch brite pad and or 600 grit sand paper on all contact surfaces. On the NEW COIL clean the inside ring where it mounts to the compressor with the sand paper. Nothing crazy just make sure its good and smooth. Install: I used a little lithium grease on the inside coil ring Mount the ring on the face just tap it (like this vid) to seat it. USE A BEARING DRIVER AND CUP TO SEAT IT FLAT. The coil will mess up this install faster than hell, and under the car you cant see if its on the pump square or not. If it is off at all you will not be able to even start putting the pulley on. A bearing driver is perfect for this, you're on pushing it on about 1/4" or so and it goes on pretty good. Next the pulley, little bit of lube on the snout, just a little. Slide the pulley on until it stops, then use the 1 1/8 socket as he shows to completely seated it. If your coil is on right, it will take no effort at all. Be sure it spins freely Install snap ring The clutch face, drop in a couple shims put the bolt threw it to hold them and check your air gap. I had a feeler gauge and set mine at about .22, apparently a matchbook will work. Tighten clutch face once its gapped Bolt ac pump back up Plug everything in Replace belt Start and listen/watch your belt etc and thats it. I hope this helps the next guy, I couldnt find ANYTHING to help me and spent 12 hrs total on a 2 hr project at most. The key is the coil needing to be driven flat, and the only way to do it easy is with a bearing driver. In my case I used the old pulley turned around, but wouldve been far easier with a proper cup.
Love the video. Is there a way to press on the coil and clutch without removing the the entire ac unit? I've been slowly tapping away at it with a hammer and when I tried to screw it in with the old screw and some spacers there was not any movement, I believe due to the fact that it was spinning the motor. Appreciate any help you can provide
Brian, I guess the Ford parts wear out in groups at the engineered failure rate which is why you have to repair them and make a video just as I need to repair the same part at the same time. I wanted to use your amazon link so you'd get credit for it but the one my year F-150 needs is a slightly different part number. I did go through your link on the small impact for my 05 expy sparkplugs and for the 1/4" drive battery impact. Love them both.
Great video for doing this on a bench, but...most do it yourselfers don't have the equipment and expense to pull the compressor along with all the problems that includes like getting freon sucked out and replacing receiver/dryer. Doing this on a 2002 Lincoln Town car, have some room in the front to do it on vehicle, but would love a video that doesn't use special tools (the big cup like device you used to press on the actuator magnet). Wish mine had been the type that had the magnet held on by a circlip, but of course it wasn't. Is it doable to either use the old pulley over the actuator magnet with a hammer to tap the new magnet on? Don't know if I could get such a big puller on it to press it on even if I had that big metal cup that fits it's size.
Great video! What model of Ford and Year did this compressor come off of? I have a 2005 Ford Explorer XLT and my field coil did fail in mine. It was no longer magnetizing at all so I replaced the entire pulley assembly. Mine had a second snap ring that holds on the field coil on as well, so there was no reason for a puller needed to be used at all. Other than that, this was very educational and indeed did help me in replacing mine. I also did not need to pull the whole compressor out. I was able to replace the pulley assembly after I removed the fan shroud, the fan itself and the serpentine belt. The whole job took about 30 minutes.
Ford Tech... I really appreciate your videos and the help that you provide to UA-cam and the TaurusClub. My son has a 2001 Mercury Sable with 123,000 miles on it. 2 Questions: 1) Is the red dust an imminent sign of future failure on my AC Clutch? 2) The outer "clutch hub ring" does not stay in one place when the AC is NOT running. It rotates, but not freely. The clutch does engage and spin as it it supposed to when the AC is on and blows cold. Is this a sign of imminent failure of the clutch? In the past week, I have changed the idler pulley, the serpentine belt and am getting ready to change the original tensioner because of movement and an odd chirping that gets worse through the drive cycle. (The longer I drive the worse it gets) Note: I only mention the belt and pulleys in relation to possible sources for "dust" in question #1. Thanks in advance.
+James Kurt The red dust is a sign of pulley bearing failure the clutch itself and the pulley face don't have any actual friction material on them to wear and create dust.
+FordTechMakuloco Thanks for your comment. I know you can't diagnose from a distance, but in your experience, by the time it gets to that point , is is more realistic for a shadetree mechanic to drop the subframe to get clearance to the clutch and pulley or should I just get the system evacuated and change the compressor assembly... maybe the dryer and orifice tube too. ( AC Blows Cold now, so it's gassed up and operational) I would hate to change the clutch and pulley then have it fail a few months from now if the bearing overheated the compressor and jeopardized the seals.
+FordTechMakuloco great video bro i have a question on this subject i have a 2000 lincoln towncar and my ac compressor pulley is stuck it wont spin at all but the clutch does i had to bypass it for the meanwhile but i want to fix it is it repairable or do i need a new ac compressor?
Great video of removal and rebuilding. I would not have gone to the trouble to rebuild this clutch considering the age and probable mileage. I think it would be more cost effective to purchase a re manufactured compressor and clutch. I have found that many times the clutch falls apart or gets torn apart by a compressor that starts to seize.
Nice video. How would you adjust the air gap if you needed to? Is this fix possible in the field without all these speciality tools? Can it be accomplished without taking the compressor off the engine? Thanks.
From an amateur, just wondering if cleaning and lubing with penatrating oil would have prevented breaking with brute force puller. My Magnetic coil has failed in hot weather to engage. The are no replacement clutch parts available for my 30 year old car so I'm hoping to clean all and adjust the gap with shims to help it work. All with out removing the compressor.
Got a Question for you, no its not related to this video, but i'm at wits end on a fix.I have 2004 Ford Ranger Edge 3.0 Auto.,4:10 gears O/D light flashes intermeatiatly,one trans shops says need rebuild, other says Not going into lockup, all gears are there, tachs 2800 rpm @ 70 mph, any dealings or a known fix? Thanks
I know this is an old vid and this question will probably go nowhere. Im doing this on a 4.6 mustang right now. Coil went on easy, tapped it on easy. The pulley on the other hand will not go on. I have light sanded and filed the inside of the bearing race, and on the snout to de-burr them. I have heated the bearing with a heat gun and no dice. Mind you i have 2 other issues. Doing it in the car, and the car is not jacked up, which is an awesome time. In front of the ac compressor is the abs pump, which limits the hammer swing. The only solution i see left is to drop the ac back down again, and drive it harder with the socked. I am at a total loss on this. Every forum google search w/e all says they slide right back on simple. Well they dont, not on this car nothing ever goes like that . Even getting old pulley off was a total disaster.
U ever figure it out? If it's gonna be forced on or somehow it's not perfect, like off just enough, u might have say f it and take it to a shop for them to look at it for 50 bucks or so. If there's nowhere that'll kook at and fix for reasonable $, sucks but might have to buy a new compressor. GL!
Are there different hub plates that can go on a 2001-2005 Sport Trac AC compressor based on the aftermarket compressor that was installed or does one particular hub plate fit all? My ac clutch hub plate fell off and I went to a salvage yard to try to find a replacement. The one I got was either bad itself or did not match up to the clutch because it would smoke when the AC was engaged. When I searched for a new plate online a couple different ones came up in the search. Thanks
I might only replace the clutch plate because my has started to be kinda worn on the surface. 0.4-0.8mm MAX 0.9mm is my spec on Visteon VS16. I don't know if the coil are good or bad. Something is intermittent. Clutch engages very randomly. Can work for months or weeks. Suddenly stops working for a day or even longer. I really don't know where to start diagnosing or what might be the cause and failing. High pressure pressostat? Low pressure switch? Relay?
I got a replacement clutch kit from O'Reilly but it does not have the same 3 rubber isolators like the old clutch had. Ford 4.0 FS10. It does have 3 small "rivets" instead.
My field coil was at a 45 degree from where you placed it. The electrical connector was vertical to the engine. Pulley slid right on with little force. I used a rubber mallet to get the field coil on. There was a little drag noise I think the field coil was uneven by a couple thousanths because I don't think I got the connector exactly centered. No drag noise with engine running.
I have a rattle from the AC for 2-3 seconds on AC startup. 2015 F150 - replaced belts and tensioners noise went away for a day or so and came back slowly. Could it be the AC clutch isolators?
Hey Brother. Could you help me locate the part number for the 05-08 F150 5.4L assembly for ac clutch? I have been having a hard time hunting this down.
My 2014 ford fusion 2.0 had ac stop all of sudden.Upon physical check the ac clutch and bolt are gone.I got a new clutch but the actual splined shaft on the compressor was spun so the grooves are smashed and new clutch will not go on Can the splined shaft be replaced or regrooved with a tool or is complete new compressor required.Never saw an ac clutch just come off and go missing?
Hi! Your videos are great! My 2001 F150 AC works fine but the clutch hub rattles and clicks quite a bit. Can I replace just that while the compressor is still on the truck? Thank you!
Hi there, great job.I need advice. I have mazda 6, 2005 2.0. I changed my ac clutch assembly, so coil, pulley with bearing and clutch. Ac is working fine when i turn it on, clutch is fully engaged and compressor is spining just fine. I left space between clutch and pulley even more than it should be but when my ac is turned off clutch is spining here and there a little bit and it's making unpleasant noise, should i add even more spacers? When i had belt off, the pulley was little bit wobbling, i didnt even have to hummer it on, i just put it there with hand, so it had little play not in side but in and out. Thank you.
My ford taurus 2003 se ac compressor is making noise, looking at this video it's the plate between the bracket and pulley. No play in pulley. What's the worst that can happen if the plate breaks? Also is it cheaper to ask for the bearing and plate to be replaced vs asking a mechanic to install a new one?
Thanks for the video. I need to replace my ac pulley bearing on my 2002 escape which uses the same compressor. Do you know by chance the bearing size for that pulley?
+Jackson Cruz Here you go-www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IWHOL8/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000IWHOL8&linkCode=as2&tag=fordt-20&linkId=7FE6PEYK2YDWPWSA
would it be possible to tap the threads on the spline? that bolt head broke leaving a portion of the bolt inside and I can't install my new clutch on it without fixing it. Any suggestions?
I have an 05 f150 lariat making a noise I feel could be related to this. AC also sometimes becomes not as chilled, but then back to normal after a short time. That tends to be more in idle rpms I'd say. The main thing I can hear what sounds like to my non mechanic ears, a whooshing hum when I accelerate from a stop. It only does it when I have ac turned on.
If all your having is the rattling,, can you replace just the clutch portion or do you have to replace the coil as well? Could just the rattling clutch be replaced on a 2004 Taurus?
I know it's been a hole since this video was posted. But just wondering... My 2012 explorer's A/C works just fine, until i floor it... Press the gas pedal and the AC stops cooling (it keeps blowing air just not cold) would this fix this problem,? Thanks if you ever reply!
How do you troubleshoot if the coil has failed or if you can just change the clutch? On my 98 Mustang gt the a/c wont usually come on but every so often it will work and when the it does it blows nice cool air. The coolant pressure seems ok and since it does work sporadically I'm thinking its probably the clutch is stuck. Also the only times I seem to be able to get it to work is when I happen to hit a bump in the road while its turned on. Any ideas on what I should do next or am I right in thinking to replace the clutch?
I have a 1999 Ford Ranger 3.0, I just had the ac system replaced (Compressor, Dryer ect.) in 2013, I've noticed the last month a churping noise while the ac is on, still blowing super cold. do you think the clutch can already be going bad?
This is a general ac clutch question. Should the clutch (not the pulley) spin freely while off the engine, or should there be some resistance. I'm looking at some compressors at a junk yard, and one of the clutches spins pretty freely and the other has a little more resistance. Thanks for your time.
I just tried replacing my clutch assembly on a 2002 Ford Escape XLT V6. I bought a Four Seasons 47874 to replace it, but the inner diameter of the bearing seems too small. I can't get it to slide onto the shaft. I tried using some silicon spray and a hammer and it seems that it will only go on as far as the snap link slot. The snap link is not there of course, but it seems that it stops at that point. Any ideas? Rock auto says that the Four Seasons 47874 should fit, but it seems like it doesn't.
Thanks for another terrific job! A couple weeks ago the a/c on my 08 Taurus stopped working. I found the clutch hub was falling off! Luckily I was able to pull it out so I didn't lose it or the shim on the road. I removed the compressor and found the capscrew had failed. Is that a common problem with this compressor?? My 00 Taurus a/c has been working perfectly 340k miles. The 08's a/c didn't quite make it to 80k before needing a repair albeit minor.
Thanks, glad to hear it's not common. I can't imagine what caused it to break. The gap was about .020", so I don't think it had too much tension on it. I replaced it with a 10.9 grade capscrew. Hoping it was just inferior from the get-go.
When I removed the bearing it was completely shot. The center, and ball bearings came out, but the outer ring of the bearing stayed inside the pulley. What is a good way to remove the outer ring on the bearing without tearing up the pulley? Thanks for any help.
Nice video. My compressor seized so I disconnected the electrical to the AC, however the clutch now rattles on the pulley. I'm planning on just removing the clutch from the pulley and driving without AC for the remainder of the truck's lifetime. Thoughts?
great job on the vid. i really like how thorough you are. you give all to do's and not to do's. im not left guessing any thing. keep up the great work. thumbs up !
Hey there, i had a question,im working on something very similar to this,actually the older one,the one where the clutch has the 6 little holes in it,the rubber in the middle completely disintegrated so i decided to replace the clutch, the pulley and the coil,i am waiting on some of the parts right now. My question is,tonight i was just messing around with the car and i wanted to check the shaft on the compressor so i put the nut back on and slowly started to turn the shaft with a rachet,now this compressor is mounted on a car and it works and there is freon in the system,as i was turning the shaft i noticed halfway to the turn a slight squeak,i ended up putting my hand on the high side metal line and every-time i would hear that squeak i could feel it thru that line,is that normal? im assuming that means its compressing the freon albeit very slowly as i turned it with the ratchet or is this a sign of compressor failure? I dont think its the bearing in the compressor because it only does the squeak in certain parts of the turn not all the time,the squeak is not loud either, it kinda feels like when you are turning a bent shaft and eveytime it reaches that bend it squeaks,very weird,the compressor was working just fine until the clutch went out however that clutch was very very old, thank you for any input!
Hey, Makuloco!!! I was wondering if you know the size of the bolt that holds on the clutch plate? Mine fell off. Still have the plate, just need the size of the bolt that holds it on. I believe it may be an M8x??mmx1.25. Any help would be amazing.
Hi! Thanks for a great video, and thanks for the help on a different video! :) I have a '05 Expedition 4x4 with a scroll compressor, and it's somewhat noisy when the AC is on. Kind of like a grinding bad bearing noise, how do I diagnose if this is the clutch assembly or the compressor itself making the noise? The AC blows cold, and the bearing on the pulley seemed fine when I replaced the drive belt about a month ago.
Skauber Most common is the clutch face coming apart on the pulley not the compressor itself. Watch the clutch while compressor is on and off to see if it is wobbling and not solid you will see.
FordTechMakuloco Thanks for the response, I removed the clutch face and it looks fine, the face of the pulley also looks fine though what looks like a friction material seems to be almost gone and the clutch seems to be running mainly on the inner ring and not much on the outer ring. The bearings on the pulley and the internal one in the spline where the clutch goes on seems to be bad. When rotating the compressor by hand it rotates smoothly and seems fine, but when the compressor is engaged it seems like there's an internal grinding sound in it. One thing I could attempt is to just replace the bearings and see if the sound changes or goes away. It's a different clutch pulley assembly from the one you have in the video here. A new clutch pulley assembly will run me about 150-200 dollars due to international shipping and a new compressor including dryer/accumulator and both expansion valves will run me about 400 dollars using four seasons reman compressor. What do you think is the best approach on that?
FordTechMakuloco Thanks for the feedback, I really appreciate it. To me, it seems like it's the internal bearing in the compressor that is getting worn. I've found a four seasons compressor only for $200 shipped, while the whole kit with expansion valves and drier as mentioned sits at $400 shipped. Seeing that the compressor hasn't had a failure and is still functioning well, but is replaced due to bad bearings, would I be OK to just replace the compressor or should I really replace the drier and expansion valves at the same time? I know it's necessary to replace all when in the case of a compressor failure, but not sure in my case where it hasn't failed yet...
hey bro I have my 99 BMW e36 my pulley is but my ac compressor is not . but if i use flat screw-drive help to spin while engine running , It will be spin but if i turn off engine and start again it won't . or until i help it. it look stuck some where inside compressor . what do you think i can do ? thank you very much
Is it possible to keep the compressor on the truck and just pull the pulley off? my bearing has completely seized and i do not want to take off the compressor if possible.
Hi, thanks for the *great* tutorial! Now for some questions. I have AC pulley bearing chatter on an '02 Focus Zetec, 145K miles. AC works fine, but when I removed the serpentine belt and grabbed the AC pulley, there was noticeable play. 3 questions: 1. are the $100 AC clutch assemblies from the major discount chains reliable? 2. If I lower the engine by removing the dogbone & passenger-side engine mounts, will I have enuf clearance to do this job without removing the AC compressor? 3. Assuming the field coil is fine, will I need to remove it? A new one appears to come with the new clutch assembly (store website photo is not clear). Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Rpg RiverMon 1) I have not tried them but all the parts are pretty basic and are not under must stress not constant operation so I would imagine they would be fine.2)You may have enough room yes but if memory serves me right you will be hitting the axle shaft on the subframe though. You can certainly try it only takes a few minutes to find out.3) If the field coild is not damaged by the pulley bearings failing and the pulley flopping then I would leave it alone as it is pressed on.
FordTechMakuloco Here's what I discovered: I purchased an aftermarket AC clutch kit, and was able to lower the engine enuf to remove the old clutch pulley, but the new pulley would not fit over the old field coil. And, I could not remove the old field coil because it is pressed-on and there isn't enuf clearance to get a jaw-puller in there. My neighbor is a professional mechanic and he didn't see any way to solve the problem, either. Therefore, I would advise other DIY'ers that the Focus FS10 AC clutch replacement is impossible without removing the compressor. Later on, I researched the issue on Google, and found this comment in a shop manual: "Especially in the case of Ford FS6 and FX15/FS10 type clutches, complete replacement of the clutch and coil assembly is required. Original or replacement Ford O.E. clutch components cannot be mixed with aftermarket type clutch components (such as a Ford O.E. coil and an aftermarket pulley and hub)."
Lynx Star Automotive Before I purchased the aftermarket kit, I called the manufacturer and they confirmed that it was the correct part number for my vehicle/FS10, but who knows???Regardless, now that the weather is getting warmer, I might try to tackle it again, but this time just pressing a new Motorcraft bearing into my old pulley. It's a 13yo Ford, so I'm looking for the cheapest solution (I live in the north and rarely use my AC, so it still blows cold). Of course, last resort is that I just buy a non-AC serpentine belt and bypass the dumb thing!
So I have the new clutch assembly and in the instructions it says to check for causes for the clutch failure before installing new clutch. They say it is rare that a clutch fails and there usually is a further problem (maybe with the compressor). Mine is 15 years old and right now the air conditioning is working fine, blows cold and the only reason I need to repair is that it is noisy. Do you have any other info in regards to checking the system or does the clutch just wear out this way after many years of use?
Hi I have a ford fiesta 2011. It has AC compressor issues, can I swap it with Ford figo or ecosport AC compressor? If yes, could you please show me how similar they are? Because I will have to replace it aty home (self budding tech, lol)
FordTechMakuloco, can you replace the same parts as in this video with the compressor on a 2000 Ford F-150 4.6L, 2 wheel drive as oppose to doing it on a bench?
I replaced the field coil, pulley and clutch on my 2000, 5.4, 4WD today Can confirm you can do everything he does with the compressor installed, except use jaw pullers to press the new coil on. However, I also already had my radiator, fan, fan shroud and intake piping removed (aftermarket radiator started leaking and needed replacement...) With all of this out the way, access is super easy! You can get the coil pressed on with a mallet and a large cup from a ball joint press set. For the pulley, use a 27mm and 29mm socket on the inside of the bearing. Snap ring is also a breeze when working from up top.
Great video. Do you have a preference when it comes to working on cars vs. diesels/super dutys? I'm a Ford tech as well and have been wanting to get on the diesel side for a while now.
I like them all but cars are much easier. There is just something so satisfying about a diesel after you work on it especially big stuff they just run so well such high precision.
This video helped me alot. Quick question though. Do you have to use a shim? the smallest one in the kit I got puts it at .030, but if I leave it out, its at .015.
Hey I am doing this job myself. I used your puller method to remove my pulley and coil however I dont have one of those big round things to use with the 2 jaw puller to install my coil. Is there an actual tool that is meant for this or can you offer me any other ideas on how to install the coil without damaging it? thanks
I just got an escape (02) and the pulley nor the clutch will spin on the compressor. What are the chances of me just having to replace the pulley bearing?
just found your channel, thought the video was great. I had a quick question though. is it at all possible to do this without removing the compressor? or will you lose your freon when you take it apart? also, I have a 2001 f150 5.4 supercrew and the clutch doesn't kick on or off, would it be better to replace the whole Compressor or rebuild?
So how exactly does the ac pulley come off from the compressor? My pulley bearings went out today. Pulled the clutch and need to get the pulley off. Or do I need to just replace the entire compressor? It is good and blows cold air. Disregard...watched the rest of the video. I don't have a pulley puller for this particular system. Grrrr
Got an ac questions for ya. I have a 2003 police interceptor. Came in with locked up compressor and bent condensor. Replaced compressor, condensor, drier, and when attempting to remove to orifice tube it was stuck so I had no choice but to put an evap core. So now everything is new except suc & dis line and another hose. Added 7 ounces of oil due per service manual. Then 1.13 kg of r134 per under hood sticker. Now low side is perfect at 30psi but high side needle bounces so fast you can barely read it. Initially it peggs 500 and cuts off. Then after about 10 cycles it will stick between 200 and 300 bouncing rapidly. It blows ice cold at idle but once car is doing over 45mph its cool at best. Electic fan is working as it should. Put in a orange orifice tube in the correct direction. What the heck is going on?
Have you sucked it down again? Either the machines scale is off and too much went in or debri is clogging the new orifice. either way there is a high side restriction. Time to do a thorough visual and testing each component with compressed air. Unless you left a plug in one of these ports from new, my money is on the charge level.
Did another evac & recharge. Pulled 1.13 kg out so it was a perfect charge. I also swapped o tubes with a new one and it didnt help. Sprayed water on condensor and it didnt help. Pulled all connections and no plugs. Isbit possible that one of the hoses is internally failing? But not showing any signs of debris?
Mike Brennan I would not suspect lines and unless debri got into one of the new components I would replace the compressor, but personally I believe debri got ino the new components.
How much oil did you pull out the second evac? Some compressors ship with a few ounces of oil in them to keep them from rusting, it needs to be drained out before install to to get an accurate amount of oil in the system. Too much oil can cause high pressure flutter. You replaced the major components that hold oil so going with the 7 ounces initially shouldn't have been an issue unless the compressor was full of oil. But now that oil has circulated, you don't need 7 Oz again.
Also like was said, if your machines scale has not been calibrated recently I would do that. If you used the same machine both times then of course it will read the same amount
I have a question. I have a 99 Ford Explorer that when you first turn the car on the clutch engages then it never re-engages. Do you think this adjustment will do the trick? I've checked the pressure switch , fuses, wiring. I'm at a loss.
Hey Makuloco, can I use this reference vid(ex vid btw!) for doing this job on my 2000 escort Zx2 compressor? I know the part in the link isn't the same, but if I can find correct kit, can I just follow this tutorial?? Thanks! Btw, if so, anything u know of I'd need to know that would be diff at all w that compressor? And if I can still leave it on the car? THX!
I can buy a tested used one for 75.00 and a brand new one for 250.00 is it worth all this work to do it? I could see it if i didn't have to remove it from the car, but as i would have to recharge the system anyway, i am not sure it makes sense to do.. Does it?
On a scale from 1-10 how much of a problem is it that i didnt need a puller for the pulley. I just wiggled mine off with the compressor still on the engine. 06 mustang 90k miles
no anti seize nor brake cleaner for removing the pulley and bearing at once ?? it would have come right off the center mounting shaft ( after a lot of sprays , of course)
If AC compressor is OK, but its clutch is bad, the best option is do not remove it. Replace just clutch/hub part. If you have to remove AC compressor, you need to evacuate the system which is additional job. In this case, the best option will be to replace AC compressor assembly. Because you will need to recharge, and check for leak..... .................... By the way, you need to use a torque wrench when installing center bolt.
For a guy like me that needs all the help he can get, you definitely helped me with my 2006 Ford Ranger AC clutch replacement. Excellent narration and showing of details. Thanks so much!
Nice vid. Most people just get a whole new compressor/clutch/coil assembly. It's nice to see just the parts that have actually failed be replaced.
ishootstuff agree 100%
you just earned another sub with this video. This has to be one of the most well made repair videos I have ever seen on youtube. Precise, to the point, and the full breakdown was amazing. I will be effecting this repair soon, and I have no reservations about performing it at all now.
Richard Green on
Thanks Bro, I have been turning wrenches my hole life and never got around to change an AC clutch, I don't know how I did that LOL but thanks for the info. It helped me alot to do it right. works light a bran new one.
You weren't missing much were you!
I have just done this job on a 2007 NISSAN PATROL, The clutch is rubbing when switched off. I just found the shims thanks to you , now i can fix what i fixed before, thanks to your video. thank you. The magnet has 3 screws holding it on the Nissan, everything else is the same. Thanks again.
this video is 100 times better than most
phoenixx0808
Great video using the proper methods. The one thing I would add is an explainer for the inexperienced. When tapping a press fit with a hammer start slow and make sure you are straight. If you are not straight stop tapping. This guy has done a ton of pulley installs and has a good feel for it. You are better off taking the pulley off and starting again if its cocked. Forcing an even slightly cocked pulley onto a shaft is entering a world of pain. I have entered that world before when I was starting out and you don't want it.
For anyone using this as a reference for a 2007 Expedition, or similar, the coil is held on by a snap ring.Remove snap ring, and the coil comes right off. Thanks for this video, my AC clutch was just as bad as this one.
Honestly one of the most informative, and detailed videos on EXACTLY what I wanted to see that I've ever encountered. Great work on the production quality and quality of work. Seriously impressive. NOW... how hard is it to do without removing the compressor? Lol
That's my same question, I can't do it with the compressor still in place
I got a video on my channel where i did this job with it in the truck.
Doable, but more difficult. There are lots of videos. I found the best way to get things that are stuck (and almost certainly things *will* be stuck) freed is dousing them with penetrating lubricant, such as Free All, giving them some time and tapping. And use heavy duty snap ring pliers. The typically cheap toys are way under-gunned.
This is one of the few videos that pop up via google search for a fs10 motocraft ac pump, so I am going to lay this out simply. If you have it on a bench do it just how this vid shows you. If you are doing in your vehicle (mustang in my case) do it like this:
Remove belt
Disassemble clutch with 8mm socket
Unplug the ac clutch AND crank position sensor and move harness out of your way
Unbolt AC lower it down do no let it "tug" on the lines
Remove snap ring
My pulley was SMOKED had 2 bearings left and was pretty much unhooked from the bearing race/sleeve on the pump snout
Try to walk your pulley off if it doesnt have much or any play, should slide off easy
If needed use a 2 or 3 jaw puller with a center cup or the factory bolt over the pump drive
You cant pull the coil and the pulley at the same time especially if you're replacing both anyway.
Use break clean a scotch brite pad and or 600 grit sand paper on all contact surfaces.
On the NEW COIL clean the inside ring where it mounts to the compressor with the sand paper. Nothing crazy just make sure its good and smooth.
Install:
I used a little lithium grease on the inside coil ring
Mount the ring on the face just tap it (like this vid) to seat it.
USE A BEARING DRIVER AND CUP TO SEAT IT FLAT. The coil will mess up this install faster than hell, and under the car you cant see if its on the pump square or not. If it is off at all you will not be able to even start putting the pulley on. A bearing driver is perfect for this, you're on pushing it on about 1/4" or so and it goes on pretty good.
Next the pulley, little bit of lube on the snout, just a little. Slide the pulley on until it stops, then use the 1 1/8 socket as he shows to completely seated it. If your coil is on right, it will take no effort at all.
Be sure it spins freely
Install snap ring
The clutch face, drop in a couple shims put the bolt threw it to hold them and check your air gap. I had a feeler gauge and set mine at about .22, apparently a matchbook will work.
Tighten clutch face once its gapped
Bolt ac pump back up
Plug everything in
Replace belt
Start and listen/watch your belt etc and thats it.
I hope this helps the next guy, I couldnt find ANYTHING to help me and spent 12 hrs total on a 2 hr project at most. The key is the coil needing to be driven flat, and the only way to do it easy is with a bearing driver. In my case I used the old pulley turned around, but wouldve been far easier with a proper cup.
Probably the best instruction video ive ever seen. Very thoughtful for us dummys
You saved me some money! Thanks for putting this out. I got my money worth at 200k plus.
Love the video. Is there a way to press on the coil and clutch without removing the the entire ac unit? I've been slowly tapping away at it with a hammer and when I tried to screw it in with the old screw and some spacers there was not any movement, I believe due to the fact that it was spinning the motor. Appreciate any help you can provide
How did you come out on this?
Great video, I have the same compressor on an 00 Excursion with the same problem, down to the hub falling apart in the same fashion.
Thanks
Love the videos man. I know this is an old one, but do you have a video of pulling the compressor out of a 5.4l 3v?
Great video, thanks dude. 👍 Also, pepboys currently has these clutch assemblies for around 15 bucks less than amazon.
Brian, I guess the Ford parts wear out in groups at the engineered failure rate which is why you have to repair them and make a video just as I need to repair the same part at the same time. I wanted to use your amazon link so you'd get credit for it but the one my year F-150 needs is a slightly different part number. I did go through your link on the small impact for my 05 expy sparkplugs and for the 1/4" drive battery impact. Love them both.
Great video for doing this on a bench, but...most do it yourselfers don't have the equipment and expense to pull the compressor along with all the problems that includes like getting freon sucked out and replacing receiver/dryer.
Doing this on a 2002 Lincoln Town car, have some room in the front to do it on vehicle, but would love a video that doesn't use special tools (the big cup like device you used to press on the actuator magnet). Wish mine had been the type that had the magnet held on by a circlip, but of course it wasn't.
Is it doable to either use the old pulley over the actuator magnet with a hammer to tap the new magnet on?
Don't know if I could get such a big puller on it to press it on even if I had that big metal cup that fits it's size.
I was thinking the exact same thing.
Great video! What model of Ford and Year did this compressor come off of? I have a 2005 Ford Explorer XLT and my field coil did fail in mine. It was no longer magnetizing at all so I replaced the entire pulley assembly. Mine had a second snap ring that holds on the field coil on as well, so there was no reason for a puller needed to be used at all. Other than that, this was very educational and indeed did help me in replacing mine. I also did not need to pull the whole compressor out. I was able to replace the pulley assembly after I removed the fan shroud, the fan itself and the serpentine belt. The whole job took about 30 minutes.
I just replaced my kit on the 03 Mustang GT 4.6 I never took it off the Car PB Blaster is a God send ,Patience is needed i promise but you can do it.
Thanks for the video. Are all ford ac compressors like that?
Mine is making a real bad squealing noise.
How many miles do the bearings typically last?
Your videos are so well done.
Ford Tech... I really appreciate your videos and the help that you provide to UA-cam and the TaurusClub. My son has a 2001 Mercury Sable with 123,000 miles on it.
2 Questions:
1) Is the red dust an imminent sign of future failure on my AC Clutch?
2) The outer "clutch hub ring" does not stay in one place when the AC is NOT running. It rotates, but not freely. The clutch does engage and spin as it it supposed to when the AC is on and blows cold. Is this a sign of imminent failure of the clutch?
In the past week, I have changed the idler pulley, the serpentine belt and am getting ready to change the original tensioner because of movement and an odd chirping that gets worse through the drive cycle. (The longer I drive the worse it gets) Note: I only mention the belt and pulleys in relation to possible sources for "dust" in question #1. Thanks in advance.
+James Kurt The red dust is a sign of pulley bearing failure the clutch itself and the pulley face don't have any actual friction material on them to wear and create dust.
+FordTechMakuloco Thanks for your comment. I know you can't diagnose from a distance, but in your experience, by the time it gets to that point , is is more realistic for a shadetree mechanic to drop the subframe to get clearance to the clutch and pulley or should I just get the system evacuated and change the compressor assembly... maybe the dryer and orifice tube too. ( AC Blows Cold now, so it's gassed up and operational) I would hate to change the clutch and pulley then have it fail a few months from now if the bearing overheated the compressor and jeopardized the seals.
+FordTechMakuloco great video bro i have a question on this subject i have a 2000 lincoln towncar and my ac compressor pulley is stuck it wont spin at all but the clutch does i had to bypass it for the meanwhile but i want to fix it is it repairable or do i need a new ac compressor?
Great video of removal and rebuilding. I would not have gone to the trouble to rebuild this clutch considering the age and probable mileage. I think it would be more cost effective to purchase a re manufactured compressor and clutch. I have found that many times the clutch falls apart or gets torn apart by a compressor that starts to seize.
Nice video. How would you adjust the air gap if you needed to?
Is this fix possible in the field without all these speciality tools?
Can it be accomplished without taking the compressor off the engine?
Thanks.
From an amateur, just wondering if cleaning and lubing with penatrating oil would have prevented breaking with brute force puller. My Magnetic coil has failed in hot weather to engage. The are no replacement clutch parts available for my 30 year old car so I'm hoping to clean all and adjust the gap with shims to help it work. All with out removing the compressor.
Got a Question for you, no its not related to this video, but i'm at wits end on a fix.I have 2004 Ford Ranger Edge 3.0 Auto.,4:10 gears O/D light flashes intermeatiatly,one trans shops says need rebuild, other says Not going into lockup, all gears are there, tachs 2800 rpm @ 70 mph, any dealings or a known fix? Thanks
Great explanation of what you were doing and why ..
Awesome video, im thinking buying a whole new compressor is the route im gonna take..... I have a 92 Taurus sho , you did do an incredible job!!!
I am doing mine on a 2006 F-150. I'm not pulling the compressor out. My coil is stuck, but, now I know how to get it out. Thanks!!!
I know this is an old vid and this question will probably go nowhere. Im doing this on a 4.6 mustang right now. Coil went on easy, tapped it on easy. The pulley on the other hand will not go on. I have light sanded and filed the inside of the bearing race, and on the snout to de-burr them. I have heated the bearing with a heat gun and no dice. Mind you i have 2 other issues. Doing it in the car, and the car is not jacked up, which is an awesome time. In front of the ac compressor is the abs pump, which limits the hammer swing. The only solution i see left is to drop the ac back down again, and drive it harder with the socked.
I am at a total loss on this. Every forum google search w/e all says they slide right back on simple. Well they dont, not on this car nothing ever goes like that . Even getting old pulley off was a total disaster.
U ever figure it out? If it's gonna be forced on or somehow it's not perfect, like off just enough, u might have say f it and take it to a shop for them to look at it for 50 bucks or so. If there's nowhere that'll kook at and fix for reasonable $, sucks but might have to buy a new compressor. GL!
@@MichaelBorne-rh8co I got it done, see my write up below.
Are there different hub plates that can go on a 2001-2005 Sport Trac AC compressor based on the aftermarket compressor that was installed or does one particular hub plate fit all? My ac clutch hub plate fell off and I went to a salvage yard to try to find a replacement. The one I got was either bad itself or did not match up to the clutch because it would smoke when the AC was engaged. When I searched for a new plate online a couple different ones came up in the search. Thanks
I know this was awhile back, but my recent one purchased from NAPA included a new snap ring.
Just wondering what to do after completing assembly using old washer the air gap is bigger then the .030 max?
He said Ford offers a shim kit.
I might only replace the clutch plate because my has started to be kinda worn on the surface. 0.4-0.8mm MAX 0.9mm is my spec on Visteon VS16.
I don't know if the coil are good or bad. Something is intermittent. Clutch engages very randomly. Can work for months or weeks. Suddenly stops working for a day or even longer. I really don't know where to start diagnosing or what might be the cause and failing. High pressure pressostat? Low pressure switch? Relay?
I got a replacement clutch kit from O'Reilly but it does not have the same 3 rubber isolators like the old clutch had. Ford 4.0 FS10. It does have 3 small "rivets" instead.
Great tutorial, very informative and concise. Subscibed
My field coil was at a 45 degree from where you placed it. The electrical connector was vertical to the engine. Pulley slid right on with little force. I used a rubber mallet to get the field coil on. There was a little drag noise I think the field coil was uneven by a couple thousanths because I don't think I got the connector exactly centered. No drag noise with engine running.
Good video. Can you telhow much is the gap in mm ? Thanks
I have a rattle from the AC for 2-3 seconds on AC startup. 2015 F150 - replaced belts and tensioners noise went away for a day or so and came back slowly. Could it be the AC clutch isolators?
Hey Brother. Could you help me locate the part number for the 05-08 F150 5.4L assembly for ac clutch? I have been having a hard time hunting this down.
My 2014 ford fusion 2.0 had ac stop all of sudden.Upon physical check the ac clutch and bolt are gone.I got a new clutch but the actual splined shaft on the compressor was spun so the grooves are smashed and new clutch will not go on Can the splined shaft be replaced or regrooved with a tool or is complete new compressor required.Never saw an ac clutch just come off and go missing?
Hi!
Your videos are great!
My 2001 F150 AC works fine but the clutch hub rattles and clicks quite a bit. Can I replace just that while the compressor is still on the truck? Thank you!
clicks? how?
Hello does the Amazon link for the complete ac clutch rebuild kit four seasons 47882 fit 2010 f150 5.4? The reviews all say torus… thanks
Hi there, great job.I need advice. I have mazda 6, 2005 2.0. I changed my ac clutch assembly, so coil, pulley with bearing and clutch. Ac is working fine when i turn it on, clutch is fully engaged and compressor is spining just fine. I left space between clutch and pulley even more than it should be but when my ac is turned off clutch is spining here and there a little bit and it's making unpleasant noise, should i add even more spacers? When i had belt off, the pulley was little bit wobbling, i didnt even have to hummer it on, i just put it there with hand, so it had little play not in side but in and out. Thank you.
My ford taurus 2003 se ac compressor is making noise, looking at this video it's the plate between the bracket and pulley. No play in pulley.
What's the worst that can happen if the plate breaks? Also is it cheaper to ask for the bearing and plate to be replaced vs asking a mechanic to install a new one?
Thanks for the video. I need to replace my ac pulley bearing on my 2002 escape which uses the same compressor. Do you know by chance the bearing size for that pulley?
+Jackson Cruz Here you go-www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IWHOL8/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000IWHOL8&linkCode=as2&tag=fordt-20&linkId=7FE6PEYK2YDWPWSA
Awesome. Thanks so much.
would it be possible to tap the threads on the spline? that bolt head broke leaving a portion of the bolt inside and I can't install my new clutch on it without fixing it. Any suggestions?
I have an 05 f150 lariat making a noise I feel could be related to this. AC also sometimes becomes not as chilled, but then back to normal after a short time. That tends to be more in idle rpms I'd say. The main thing I can hear what sounds like to my non mechanic ears, a whooshing hum when I accelerate from a stop. It only does it when I have ac turned on.
can you Chang only the clutch or you have to remove pully too...
+Jose Arellano you can change just the clutch
+FordTechMakuloco thanks..
+FordTechMakuloco Yeah, thanks.
If all your having is the rattling,, can you replace just the clutch portion or do you have to replace the coil as well? Could just the rattling clutch be replaced on a 2004 Taurus?
I know it's been a hole since this video was posted. But just wondering... My 2012 explorer's A/C works just fine, until i floor it... Press the gas pedal and the AC stops cooling (it keeps blowing air just not cold) would this fix this problem,? Thanks if you ever reply!
Nice video. What was that electric impact you were using?
How do you troubleshoot if the coil has failed or if you can just change the clutch? On my 98 Mustang gt the a/c wont usually come on but every so often it will work and when the it does it blows nice cool air. The coolant pressure seems ok and since it does work sporadically I'm thinking its probably the clutch is stuck. Also the only times I seem to be able to get it to work is when I happen to hit a bump in the road while its turned on. Any ideas on what I should do next or am I right in thinking to replace the clutch?
I have a 1999 Ford Ranger 3.0, I just had the ac system replaced (Compressor, Dryer ect.) in 2013, I've noticed the last month a churping noise while the ac is on, still blowing super cold. do you think the clutch can already be going bad?
This is a general ac clutch question. Should the clutch (not the pulley) spin freely while off the engine, or should there be some resistance. I'm looking at some compressors at a junk yard, and one of the clutches spins pretty freely and the other has a little more resistance. Thanks for your time.
The pulley should spin freely but the clutch should have some resistance
Very well explained even a knot head like me got it first time thank you !!!
I just tried replacing my clutch assembly on a 2002 Ford Escape XLT V6. I bought a Four Seasons 47874 to replace it, but the inner diameter of the bearing seems too small. I can't get it to slide onto the shaft. I tried using some silicon spray and a hammer and it seems that it will only go on as far as the snap link slot. The snap link is not there of course, but it seems that it stops at that point. Any ideas? Rock auto says that the Four Seasons 47874 should fit, but it seems like it doesn't.
What is the torque spec for the clutch bolt on the ac compressor clutch to compressor shaft on a 2014 Ford Explorer XLT 2.0?
Thanks for another terrific job! A couple weeks ago the a/c on my 08 Taurus stopped working. I found the clutch hub was falling off! Luckily I was able to pull it out so I didn't lose it or the shim on the road. I removed the compressor and found the capscrew had failed. Is that a common problem with this compressor?? My 00 Taurus a/c has been working perfectly 340k miles. The 08's a/c didn't quite make it to 80k before needing a repair albeit minor.
No it is not common, I have seen this before though on econoline and superduty trucks.
Thanks, glad to hear it's not common. I can't imagine what caused it to break. The gap was about .020", so I don't think it had too much tension on it. I replaced it with a 10.9 grade capscrew. Hoping it was just inferior from the get-go.
Question, can you use a block of wood say like, a 2 by 4 and tap it from the top to push in the clutch.
When I removed the bearing it was completely shot. The center, and ball bearings came out, but the outer ring of the bearing stayed inside the pulley. What is a good way to remove the outer ring on the bearing without tearing up the pulley? Thanks for any help.
Does the ac clutch pulley just slide off the compressor shaft if I need to replace the pulley and plate assembly?
Hello wanted to ask if there's a torque specification for the bolt my is a 2003 ford expedition 4.6
Good question 2011 escape 3.0
I retract mine
So at the end of the video he explains the air gap and how things should still be free and spin so no torque just shim it until it works right
Nice video.
My compressor seized so I disconnected the electrical to the AC, however the clutch now rattles on the pulley. I'm planning on just removing the clutch from the pulley and driving without AC for the remainder of the truck's lifetime.
Thoughts?
Maurizio von Flotow Yes remove the 8mm bolt and the clutch and now it will just be a pulley perfect solution.
great job on the vid. i really like how thorough you are. you give all to do's and not to do's. im not left guessing any thing. keep up the great work. thumbs up !
That is what I intended to make this channel different with all that extra tips here and there.
Legend! very well done bud, I certainly am good to go now cheers
Hey there, i had a question,im working on something very similar to this,actually the older one,the one where the clutch has the 6 little holes in it,the rubber in the middle completely disintegrated so i decided to replace the clutch, the pulley and the coil,i am waiting on some of the parts right now.
My question is,tonight i was just messing around with the car and i wanted to check the shaft on the compressor so i put the nut back on and slowly started to turn the shaft with a rachet,now this compressor is mounted on a car and it works and there is freon in the system,as i was turning the shaft i noticed halfway to the turn a slight squeak,i ended up putting my hand on the high side metal line and every-time i would hear that squeak i could feel it thru that line,is that normal? im assuming that means its compressing the freon albeit very slowly as i turned it with the ratchet or is this a sign of compressor failure?
I dont think its the bearing in the compressor because it only does the squeak in certain parts of the turn not all the time,the squeak is not loud either, it kinda feels like when you are turning a bent shaft and eveytime it reaches that bend it squeaks,very weird,the compressor was working just fine until the clutch went out however that clutch was very very old, thank you for any input!
Hey, Makuloco!!! I was wondering if you know the size of the bolt that holds on the clutch plate? Mine fell off. Still have the plate, just need the size of the bolt that holds it on. I believe it may be an M8x??mmx1.25. Any help would be amazing.
Great job on the video. Replacing mine on a 07 Ranger while the compressor is still on the truck.
Hi! Thanks for a great video, and thanks for the help on a different video! :) I have a '05 Expedition 4x4 with a scroll compressor, and it's somewhat noisy when the AC is on. Kind of like a grinding bad bearing noise, how do I diagnose if this is the clutch assembly or the compressor itself making the noise? The AC blows cold, and the bearing on the pulley seemed fine when I replaced the drive belt about a month ago.
Skauber Most common is the clutch face coming apart on the pulley not the compressor itself. Watch the clutch while compressor is on and off to see if it is wobbling and not solid you will see.
FordTechMakuloco Thanks for the response, I removed the clutch face and it looks fine, the face of the pulley also looks fine though what looks like a friction material seems to be almost gone and the clutch seems to be running mainly on the inner ring and not much on the outer ring. The bearings on the pulley and the internal one in the spline where the clutch goes on seems to be bad. When rotating the compressor by hand it rotates smoothly and seems fine, but when the compressor is engaged it seems like there's an internal grinding sound in it. One thing I could attempt is to just replace the bearings and see if the sound changes or goes away. It's a different clutch pulley assembly from the one you have in the video here. A new clutch pulley assembly will run me about 150-200 dollars due to international shipping and a new compressor including dryer/accumulator and both expansion valves will run me about 400 dollars using four seasons reman compressor. What do you think is the best approach on that?
The way it sounds you would be best off with the complete kit from four seasons.
FordTechMakuloco Thanks for the feedback, I really appreciate it. To me, it seems like it's the internal bearing in the compressor that is getting worn. I've found a four seasons compressor only for $200 shipped, while the whole kit with expansion valves and drier as mentioned sits at $400 shipped. Seeing that the compressor hasn't had a failure and is still functioning well, but is replaced due to bad bearings, would I be OK to just replace the compressor or should I really replace the drier and expansion valves at the same time? I know it's necessary to replace all when in the case of a compressor failure, but not sure in my case where it hasn't failed yet...
hey bro I have my 99 BMW e36 my pulley is but my ac compressor is not . but if i use flat screw-drive help to spin while engine running , It will be spin but if i turn off engine and start again it won't . or until i help it. it look stuck some where inside compressor . what do you think i can do ? thank you very much
Is it possible to keep the compressor on the truck and just pull the pulley off? my bearing has completely seized and i do not want to take off the compressor if possible.
Hi, thanks for the *great* tutorial!
Now for some questions. I have AC pulley bearing chatter on an '02 Focus Zetec, 145K miles. AC works fine, but when I removed the serpentine belt and grabbed the AC pulley, there was noticeable play.
3 questions:
1. are the $100 AC clutch assemblies from the major discount chains reliable?
2. If I lower the engine by removing the dogbone & passenger-side engine mounts, will I have enuf clearance to do this job without removing the AC compressor?
3. Assuming the field coil is fine, will I need to remove it? A new one appears to come with the new clutch assembly (store website photo is not clear).
Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Rpg RiverMon 1) I have not tried them but all the parts are pretty basic and are not under must stress not constant operation so I would imagine they would be fine.2)You may have enough room yes but if memory serves me right you will be hitting the axle shaft on the subframe though. You can certainly try it only takes a few minutes to find out.3) If the field coild is not damaged by the pulley bearings failing and the pulley flopping then I would leave it alone as it is pressed on.
FordTechMakuloco
Here's what I discovered:
I purchased an aftermarket AC clutch kit, and was able to lower the engine enuf to remove the old clutch pulley, but the new pulley would not fit over the old field coil. And, I could not remove the old field coil because it is pressed-on and there isn't enuf clearance to get a jaw-puller in there. My neighbor is a professional mechanic and he didn't see any way to solve the problem, either. Therefore, I would advise other DIY'ers that the Focus FS10 AC clutch replacement is impossible without removing the compressor.
Later on, I researched the issue on Google, and found this comment in a shop manual: "Especially in the case of Ford FS6 and FX15/FS10 type clutches, complete replacement of the clutch and coil assembly is required. Original or replacement Ford O.E. clutch components cannot be mixed with aftermarket type clutch components (such as a Ford O.E. coil and an aftermarket pulley and hub)."
makes sense to me that is why we only use oem stuff then it just fits.
Lynx Star Automotive Before I purchased the aftermarket kit, I called the manufacturer and they confirmed that it was the correct part number for my vehicle/FS10, but who knows???Regardless, now that the weather is getting warmer, I might try to tackle it again, but this time just pressing a new Motorcraft bearing into my old pulley. It's a 13yo Ford, so I'm looking for the cheapest solution (I live in the north and rarely use my AC, so it still blows cold). Of course, last resort is that I just buy a non-AC serpentine belt and bypass the dumb thing!
Thank you for the video. Very straight forward and lots of info.
So I have the new clutch assembly and in the instructions it says to check for causes for the clutch failure before installing new clutch. They say it is rare that a clutch fails and there usually is a further problem (maybe with the compressor). Mine is 15 years old and right now the air conditioning is working fine, blows cold and the only reason I need to repair is that it is noisy. Do you have any other info in regards to checking the system or does the clutch just wear out this way after many years of use?
+Kevinvansea Simply spin the clutch center hub a couple times if the compressor has failed you won't be able to turn it by hand.
Hi I have a ford fiesta 2011. It has AC compressor issues, can I swap it with Ford figo or ecosport AC compressor? If yes, could you please show me how similar they are? Because I will have to replace it aty home (self budding tech, lol)
FordTechMakuloco, can you replace the same parts as in this video with the compressor on a 2000 Ford F-150 4.6L, 2 wheel drive as oppose to doing it on a bench?
I replaced the field coil, pulley and clutch on my 2000, 5.4, 4WD today
Can confirm you can do everything he does with the compressor installed, except use jaw pullers to press the new coil on. However, I also already had my radiator, fan, fan shroud and intake piping removed (aftermarket radiator started leaking and needed replacement...) With all of this out the way, access is super easy! You can get the coil pressed on with a mallet and a large cup from a ball joint press set. For the pulley, use a 27mm and 29mm socket on the inside of the bearing. Snap ring is also a breeze when working from up top.
Great video. Do you have a preference when it comes to working on cars vs. diesels/super dutys? I'm a Ford tech as well and have been wanting to get on the diesel side for a while now.
I like them all but cars are much easier. There is just something so satisfying about a diesel after you work on it especially big stuff they just run so well such high precision.
This video helped me alot. Quick question though. Do you have to use a shim? the smallest one in the kit I got puts it at .030, but if I leave it out, its at .015.
+lorddrezz you don't need to use shims they are only there to achieve the desired gap
Hey I am doing this job myself. I used your puller method to remove my pulley and coil however I dont have one of those big round things to use with the 2 jaw puller to install my coil. Is there an actual tool that is meant for this or can you offer me any other ideas on how to install the coil without damaging it? thanks
I'm looking for the removal tool you used... eBay didn't show it they had some other stuff... just wondered if you could identify it for me
I just got an escape (02) and the pulley nor the clutch will spin on the compressor. What are the chances of me just having to replace the pulley bearing?
Great Video. Loved every bit of it straight to the point with some good tips. Love your channel. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
just found your channel, thought the video was great. I had a quick question though. is it at all possible to do this without removing the compressor? or will you lose your freon when you take it apart? also, I have a 2001 f150 5.4 supercrew and the clutch doesn't kick on or off, would it be better to replace the whole Compressor or rebuild?
I have the same exact question lol
So how exactly does the ac pulley come off from the compressor? My pulley bearings went out today. Pulled the clutch and need to get the pulley off. Or do I need to just replace the entire compressor? It is good and blows cold air. Disregard...watched the rest of the video. I don't have a pulley puller for this particular system. Grrrr
Can I replace the clutch only. ? If that's what needed 😊👽
You definitely taught me something today
Got an ac questions for ya. I have a 2003 police interceptor. Came in with locked up compressor and bent condensor. Replaced compressor, condensor, drier, and when attempting to remove to orifice tube it was stuck so I had no choice but to put an evap core. So now everything is new except suc & dis line and another hose. Added 7 ounces of oil due per service manual. Then 1.13 kg of r134 per under hood sticker. Now low side is perfect at 30psi but high side needle bounces so fast you can barely read it. Initially it peggs 500 and cuts off. Then after about 10 cycles it will stick between 200 and 300 bouncing rapidly. It blows ice cold at idle but once car is doing over 45mph its cool at best. Electic fan is working as it should. Put in a orange orifice tube in the correct direction. What the heck is going on?
Have you sucked it down again? Either the machines scale is off and too much went in or debri is clogging the new orifice. either way there is a high side restriction. Time to do a thorough visual and testing each component with compressed air. Unless you left a plug in one of these ports from new, my money is on the charge level.
Did another evac & recharge. Pulled 1.13 kg out so it was a perfect charge. I also swapped o tubes with a new one and it didnt help. Sprayed water on condensor and it didnt help. Pulled all connections and no plugs. Isbit possible that one of the hoses is internally failing? But not showing any signs of debris?
Mike Brennan I would not suspect lines and unless debri got into one of the new components I would replace the compressor, but personally I believe debri got ino the new components.
How much oil did you pull out the second evac? Some compressors ship with a few ounces of oil in them to keep them from rusting, it needs to be drained out before install to to get an accurate amount of oil in the system. Too much oil can cause high pressure flutter. You replaced the major components that hold oil so going with the 7 ounces initially shouldn't have been an issue unless the compressor was full of oil. But now that oil has circulated, you don't need 7 Oz again.
Also like was said, if your machines scale has not been calibrated recently I would do that. If you used the same machine both times then of course it will read the same amount
I have a question. I have a 99 Ford Explorer that when you first turn the car on the clutch engages then it never re-engages. Do you think this adjustment will do the trick? I've checked the pressure switch , fuses, wiring. I'm at a loss.
Unlikely, first thing you need to do is check the pressures in the system to see why it is turning off.
Hey Makuloco, can I use this reference vid(ex vid btw!) for doing this job on my 2000 escort Zx2 compressor? I know the part in the link isn't the same, but if I can find correct kit, can I just follow this tutorial?? Thanks!
Btw, if so, anything u know of I'd need to know that would be diff at all w that compressor? And if I can still leave it on the car? THX!
Really helpful vid. Quick question, can you repair the a/c clutch assembly while on the vehicle? i have a 98 F150. thanks.
J. Brown Most of the time on trucks yes you can.
What was that flat circle piece that you pressed the coil on with?
I can buy a tested used one for 75.00 and a brand new one for 250.00 is it worth all this work to do it? I could see it if i didn't have to remove it from the car, but as i would have to recharge the system anyway, i am not sure it makes sense to do.. Does it?
On a scale from 1-10 how much of a problem is it that i didnt need a puller for the pulley. I just wiggled mine off with the compressor still on the engine. 06 mustang 90k miles
How did you get the pulley off!?
no anti seize nor brake cleaner for removing the pulley and bearing at once ?? it would have come right off the center mounting shaft ( after a lot of sprays , of course)
is the clutch kit cheaper then the by pass kit? I know u can just unbolt it an lay to the side an install the by pass kit
If AC compressor is OK, but its clutch is bad, the best option is do not remove it. Replace just clutch/hub part. If you have to remove AC compressor, you need to evacuate the system which is additional job. In this case, the best option will be to replace AC compressor assembly. Because you will need to recharge, and check for leak.....
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By the way, you need to use a torque wrench when installing center bolt.