Thanks so much... Good video. I just pulled my compressor on a 2001 Taurus Wagon with 12 Valve 3.0 Liter. The compressor pulley locked up, and that burnt up my serpentine belt immediately. Followed your advice EXCEPT I did not open the split open the A/C line with the special tool. I only unscrewed the line from the compressor, and I still had no problem getting the compressor out.
Wow. A way to pull the compressor w/o having to do it from the wheel well and dropping the subframe. You've done us Taurus owners a huge solid. Well done.
Finally someone who actually gives a true step by step and proper camera angle. Thank you sir I’ll be using this video as reference to fix my gf’s car as she has no ac and summer is here.
This is excellent video . I changed my compressor out by myself. At 51 yrs I just started working on my car over passed year. And am proud of it. Thank you for the good job.
Thank You FordTechMakuloco! I have a 2003 Ford Taurus SES with the Duratec 24v V6, just turned 100k miles. Complaint was the infamous noisy compressor, clutch and clutch bearing were trashed. Since the compressor was 15 years old it did not make sense to remove the compressor just to replace the clutch and field coil, so I decided to replace the compressor with a new aftermarket unit. Yesterday, my son and I did I the procedure described in this video *successfully* on the Duratec 24v! I removed both fans and "bungied" the fuse box out of the way. We used old fashioned ratchet wrenches for some of the 10mm compressor bolts and the refrigerant attachment bolt on the back of the compressor - it is a good idea to have a deep 10mm and some short socket extensions to allow for options in accessing them. The lower bolt towards the "belt" side of the compressor required a 10mm boxed end wrench for access. Getting the bolts off is a major PITA - we did remove the cover/airdam (as you mentioned) to get access from below. It was tricky, but I managed to bring the compressor along the back side of the radiator, just like seen in your video. I also replaced the accumulator/dryer and orifice tube. I did NOT have "black death", the refrigerant that was evacuated was clear. The orifice tube (15 years old) was about 1/3 full of crud, mostly small black shavings. We purged the evaporator and condenser while the system was open to get some of the old oil and "stuff" out. Yes, I know the "best" way would be to replace both the evaporator and condenser - but this is a 15 yr old Taurus, and the system was cooling well - we just had the bad clutch. Added PAG 46 per specs (7 oz), some in the compressor and the rest in the accumulator. Hand spun the new compressor before install to help free it up and disburse the oil. Harbor Freight vacuum pump used - pulled 30 in of vacuum and it held. Continued evacuating the system for nearly 2 hours to boil off any remaining flush. Charged system with the specified 34 oz of R-134a. Ambient temp was 80 degrees after completing charge - pressures low side 38 PSI, high side 210 PSI (right in the middle of the normal ranges.) Air out of registers is COLD (I could not get you a reading, my thermometer is "hiding" somewhere in my toolbox.) We could NOT have done this procedure without your excellent video! You saved us nearly $1000 in service work (on a car that isn't worth a whole lot more than that.)
may God bless you for helping the poor. Thanks to your fine video, i changed the ac pump and the power steering pump in an hour and fifteen mins. i can't thank you enough for saving me a good chunk of cash.
I've watched at least a dozen videos for this job and yours is the clearest and most complete. I've noticed the same thing on several of your videos. Keep up the helpful work.
This video is great because it tells what size wrench is needed for the different nuts and bolts. That's a huge help as it saves time playing guess the wrench size.
Thanks Brian for saving the old farmer on this repair (and towing due to a locked up compressor pulley). Grabbed tools (new belt and compressor) to the road side and got it replaced to get home. Then properly recharging the system: 10mm Open End 10mm Socket 13mm Socket 15mm Open End 3/4" Fuel Line Tool 8mm Socket Standard Bungee Cord Standard Cat Claw Standard Screwdriver No need to pull the belly plate, as it's all 100% accessible from the top.
Thank you so much for this tutorial! I was able to find an almost new compressor at the junk yard and after I vacuumed it down and charged it, I now have cold air, which I have not previously had.
I used this video to successfully replace the A/C compressor. I also ended up replacing the Reciever/Drier and Orifice Tube on the car. Thanks for the video!!
Thank you sir you are very helpful and thorough on your video and description. I wish more people on UA-cam were as step by step as you are. They should use your video as a standard qualification for these tutorials. You are awesome thank you again
Toyota tech here. Replaced the compressor on my friends 99 after watching this video. I forgot the fuel line disconnects. FYI. in a pinch, cutting a bottle cap to fit, and hitting it in with a flathead and a vice grip as a hammer works to disconnect that one ac line. Took me about an hour to change the compressor out. Great video man. I expected the job to be much worse than it actually was.
Had mine out on 30 mins. I left fuse box in place, plenty of room. Remove belt. Remove pass side fan (1 bolt on a '96). Remove Power steering fluid line (1 hose clip) and plug line. Remove the AC lines (after Evac) and let them hang. Unplug AC wire harness. You can remove all 4 AC compressor bolts. 1st=upper right. 2nd lower right 3rd lower left 4th upper left (this one hits the fan shroud, so remove other 3, then unscrew that last one and leave it in the mounts. Compressor will slide out, then unplug clutch wire harness. Done.
Best video of all the different methods being used. HOWEVER, I had a hard time getting the bleeder bolt out due to space constraints. SOLUTION: Take the fans out first. I also was able to skip a step. I didn't disconnect the suction line to give myself more clearance. The compressor came out easily without that step. Great job though because I would have been completely lost without this video. Thanks.
true artist. i am a musician by trade but love to do my own car fixes. great to see a person in another trade with the passion of an artist. thank you for the help
Nice video, I use offset box wrench on the tension pulley, easy to slip the half pipe on it from my floor jack to get a bit more leverage. I enjoy all you videos for the Taurus/Sable and the Edge models.
This video is great. Watching this video, along with the 1Aauto video, before attempting, and after watching Chris Fix testing videos.. Haynes/Chilton can't touch it. Thank you, as well as all the shade tree mechanics who post, for these videos. What one video may lack, the others fill in. This one doesn't seem to lack anything.
Thanks sir for the video, I did an ac job on an 04 mercury sable 3.0. It's all the same. What I learned is to cut some cardboard and tape it to radiator so I want damage it. I think my hardest part was holding the compressor in place till I got my bolt started. Tkx again
Thank you for the great video Doing the work for a friend of mine who cant afford a garage and I was worried i would have to take the power steering pump off and everything.
thank you. I've done a couple of these compressors in Taurus. I have one at the shop I'm doing tomorrow and need some tips. your video was very good. get some more videos on here.
Great stuff. Your detail is practical and right to the point. No chatty fillers. My car is an 02 Merc Sable 3.0 ohv and the pulley wheel froze up. Just got the car. Had low coolant to start. How do I know its a rebuild I need and not the whole compressor. It did turn on right up til it froze up though not very cool cos of the low coolant. My guess is a rebuild. Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
I watched another video where the guy basically removes the alt and pwr steering pump as 1 assembly with removing the combo bracket. Have u seen this video? Trying figure which is the easier method. Great vid. By the way. Thanks for all ur help
good video and good idea man i just did the compressor on this car in like 2 hours. doing it your way definitely seems like the best way it is a little trick to get the fans out with the power steering line in the way but it’s definitely doable 👍
Thanks for this video man. Talk about a Royal F-Up of a job... DAMN!!! Thanks again, luckly our compressor only the clutch got loose because the bolt in the middle came off... Put it back on and its now back to normal...
The bolt in the middle of my ac compressor clutch came out also. Did you have to take the whole compressor out to replace it? I'm not able to get the bolt in without taking it out it seems
Great video. I was able to quickly get things down to the compressor on my 2000 Duratec with your video's steps. I decided to remove my radiator hoses for a little better access as the 10 mm bolts that hold the compressor on are pretty tight. Got to the last bolt like you and I rounded the head. Not sure how I managed to do that with a 10 mm six point socket but cars can be tough. Still deciding on the best way to grind the head off as I plan on installing a bypass pulley.
If anyone has ever had your system not getting cold air into the cab try turning the cold dial all the way on and then backing off about 1/4 inch, the cold air will come flowing in. I learned this by accident after i spent $ 120.00d for a mechanic to tell me my ac system was fine but that i should look into checking my mix panels to see if they are moving properly. Come to find that the mix panels were fine but the problem was the ac dial would not let the cold air in until you would back the dial up a little from full on. Now i am that much smarter.
Thanks for the guidance, Brian. Well done, good lighting and volume, too. We found that with shorter 15mm box wrenches, the power steering and coolant reservoirs are in the way of getting leverage, so we took them out (10 minutes) An Offset wrench works much better.
I don't know if Brian will respond to this but I am facing having to replace the entire a/c system on my 2000 Taurus with 263k and I have a choice of compressors. YCC212 or YC2522. The only difference is the YCC212 includes the clutch. Which one would be the better choice for longevity especially since I plan on keeping this car and don't want to have to do this job again. Thank you for all your videos. They have helped me keep this car in the road since 98k when I bought it over 10 years ago..
So, I've done worse.... Had to change out an alternator and water pump on a 24V DOHC so.... That being said. I don't see this being a huge issue, but what do I have to do to the system before, after, and during the install. Meaning the coolant and the oil. I know I can't just pull out the bad compressor and then just throw a new one in. What will I need to do? And will a shop actually do it??? I know this is old, so hoping you reply. Thanks.
Very well done. Just looking to see if it's the same as the SES with the DOHC. Stuck doing a 2004 for my son...lol... Thanks, I'll be checking out other vids from you. It was great on 2x speed.
I found that it's easier if you remove the oxygen sensor, gives you more space to remove the compressor AND if you replace the AC manifold hoses that connects to the AC compressor.
No it is just and extra plush filter seal, I thought the same thing and checked the bottom tabs and even tried reseating it and it is just the way it is.
Thanks for the informative video. I followed your steps on my 2001 Vulcan engine and all worked out well. Better than disconnecting the PS lines like some other recommend. One thing tough - I lost a lot of coolant during the teardown, I could swear it came from the block that bolts to the rear of the compressor. But that does not make any sense. It was not a trickle of compressor oil, it was at least a couple of quarts. How could that happen? Any help would be appreciated. I only lack replacing the orifice and pulling vacuum before charging again. I cannot figure out where the coolant came from.
My daughter's 2002 Taurus SEL wagon has the automatic temp control. The shop I took it to is going to remove the compressor and bypass it. Will this affect the auto climate control? They quoted me $1,100 for the removal of the compressor and install a bypass for the pulley or $1,700 to replace the compressor to have ac again. They said it's a lot of labor. They are a reputable shop. Do these estimates sound fair?
awesome. This would have helped the 1st time I did it. Now that my cheap compressor has broke, I need to replace again! This will be much easier. Last time I did everything from the top! :)
Sir, My wife's 2004 mercury sable ac compressor needs to be replaced..This is a better video that the rest .. my concern is how do you remove the refrigerant? and does it just get released into the air?
Our 2002 Windstar has this same issue (shocking, I know). There's about an inch or so between the compressor and the frame. Is it possible, in your experience, to sneak the clutch off and on without having to do anything else but take off that one bolt? It looks like it's close but I wonder if you've attempted this before. (I'm SURE there's no room for the pulley but I was hoping to sneak in just a new clutch to start with.) Thanks!
I know. I'm not on the clock so I can take my time. I'll have my cardboard underneath just to be safe. I'm just wondering if there's enough room to snake it out of there. It's tight but looks like it might happen... maybe!
Hi dear I enjoy your videos. I have a question. I am working on a 98 mercury sable with bad clutch/compressor. Any suggestions on flushing the system after the compressor is replaced?
so this is probably a stupid question but is ther einstructions to evap the system? or if you dont have it to just evap to atmophere? yes I know you shouldnt do it sine it damages ozone layer.
I am looking at replacing both the A/C compressor and the power steering pump at the same time. Will it make it easier for me to get to the compressor if I remove the power steering pump first?
I followed your video and changed the compressor in my 2006 Taurus. Awesome job on the video!! I also changed the receiver/dryer and the orifice tube as well, but I think I created another problem. I had the battery disconnected for about a week and after reconnecting and trying to start the car to finish charging the a/c it wont crank. DId I erase the keys out of the pcm memory accidentally? If so do I need to tow it to the dealer to have them reprogrammed?
+SAXONWARLORD1000AD You could leave the lines connected and just imply the compressor from the block then just maneuver the compressor around to work on it. It's tight but possible
Thanks for you quick reply - i dont see how the compressor will maneuver with the hard lines still in place,especially that large suction line you mention - can that be disconnected or do i have to evac the system first - I HATE THESE SIDE WAYS MOTORS - NO ROOM TO DO STUFF - simply change a pulley - ridiculous
FordTechMakuloco ok thanks, I was hoping for any easy way to access the lines where it connects to the evaporator. Man what a knuckle buster. Can I flush the high side line that I took loose on the compressor? It connects to the condenser. I want to flush the condenser
Can I leave it off? Like I got an 82inch belt that alows you to leave the ac compressor out of the mix but the belt sits on the pully. So I was wondering if I could just take the compressor off and leave it off.
Hello. I have a problem with my Taurus 2002 DOHC Duratec 24v 3.0L, the engine have some kind of grinding or screeching sound near the water pump. Always, no matter hot or cold. Very loud, from the inside sounds like my muffler fell down on the ground and Im pulling it..Do you have any idea what could it be? Thank you
Can you pull out the AC pulley without removing the whole compressor? I'm trying to bypass my compressor with a shorter belt, but I don't think there's enough clearance due to the pulley.
Hello..i bought a used ac compressor and i tested whit s battery and the clutch open but it doesnt spin by hand when is open..so is good or how can i know the used compressor is good before i got it installed?
Is there a way to just remove the clutch on the compressor without taking the whole compressor out? on my car just the clutch is dragging and the compressor is still good and I don't really want to evacuate the whole system if I dont have to.
FordTechMakuloco I was interested in doing this as well on my 2001 Taurus. Just want to remove clutch and not replace. But, there isn't enough room to get a 1/4 inch drive socket wrench onto the 8 mm bolt that holds the clutch hub. Was wondering if there is a tool you could recommend that would fit. Guess would also need something to keep clutch from turning as you torqued the 8 mm bolt. Otherwise, I'll just remove the whole compressor and install one of those bypass pulleys. Appreciate the videos!
@@FordTechMakuloco brother. You should have said at the video. I almost put it with mo oil. I watched your video to learned since I needed to learn. However your way of removing looks easier than removing all those items in the top.
I need to find the video for the compressor fix. I honestly just need it to spin because it snapped my serpentine belt. Dont care about ac at this moment. I just need a moving car without a $1500 bill 🤣 If i can fix the bearing on the compressor im gonna be a happy camper!
FordTechMakuloco Being a Ford tech, I would hope so. It should be expected of us. I have owned a repair business for 9 years now after being a Mercedes Benz tech for several years and have beat it also, but the DIY'er will not. Doing both the first time, I am certain you will agree that the DOHC is much more difficult than the OHV simply due to physical space available.
Marc Smith A real pain I had to disconnect radiator hoses to even get the bolts out and to remove the high pressure line off the back.. You have to actually force it out of the top of the engine.. there is absolutely no clearance. its easier to drop it back in because of gravity.. but it is not easy to reposition it because you have to actually reverse the modified process. You also need to put the bolt back in the front because you will not have the room to put it in once it is in position.. Ive been struggling with the dohc for 3 days now I have the old one out and trying to put the new one in and its an unpleasant operation. I wish someone made o video of the DOHC 16 valve duratec ac compressor installation...
Yoo im trying to replace my dryer and my ac compressor and my orifice tube on my 99 Ford Taurus SE and i got it all out and gotten my new accumulator and new compressor and the orifice tube but now do i flush it before i put in the new parts?????? Pls Help! Lol.
Thanks so much... Good video. I just pulled my compressor on a 2001 Taurus Wagon with 12 Valve 3.0 Liter. The compressor pulley locked up, and that burnt up my serpentine belt immediately. Followed your advice EXCEPT I did not open the split open the A/C line with the special tool. I only unscrewed the line from the compressor, and I still had no problem getting the compressor out.
Wow. A way to pull the compressor w/o having to do it from the wheel well and dropping the subframe. You've done us Taurus owners a huge solid. Well done.
Michael Luscher Yes this is actually very easy method
Finally someone who actually gives a true step by step and proper camera angle. Thank you sir I’ll be using this video as reference to fix my gf’s car as she has no ac and summer is here.
This is excellent video . I changed my compressor out by myself. At 51 yrs I just started working on my car over passed year. And am proud of it. Thank you for the good job.
Thank You FordTechMakuloco! I have a 2003 Ford Taurus SES with the Duratec 24v V6, just turned 100k miles. Complaint was the infamous noisy compressor, clutch and clutch bearing were trashed. Since the compressor was 15 years old it did not make sense to remove the compressor just to replace the clutch and field coil, so I decided to replace the compressor with a new aftermarket unit. Yesterday, my son and I did I the procedure described in this video *successfully* on the Duratec 24v! I removed both fans and "bungied" the fuse box out of the way. We used old fashioned ratchet wrenches for some of the 10mm compressor bolts and the refrigerant attachment bolt on the back of the compressor - it is a good idea to have a deep 10mm and some short socket extensions to allow for options in accessing them. The lower bolt towards the "belt" side of the compressor required a 10mm boxed end wrench for access. Getting the bolts off is a major PITA - we did remove the cover/airdam (as you mentioned) to get access from below. It was tricky, but I managed to bring the compressor along the back side of the radiator, just like seen in your video.
I also replaced the accumulator/dryer and orifice tube. I did NOT have "black death", the refrigerant that was evacuated was clear. The orifice tube (15 years old) was about 1/3 full of crud, mostly small black shavings. We purged the evaporator and condenser while the system was open to get some of the old oil and "stuff" out. Yes, I know the "best" way would be to replace both the evaporator and condenser - but this is a 15 yr old Taurus, and the system was cooling well - we just had the bad clutch. Added PAG 46 per specs (7 oz), some in the compressor and the rest in the accumulator. Hand spun the new compressor before install to help free it up and disburse the oil. Harbor Freight vacuum pump used - pulled 30 in of vacuum and it held. Continued evacuating the system for nearly 2 hours to boil off any remaining flush. Charged system with the specified 34 oz of R-134a. Ambient temp was 80 degrees after completing charge - pressures low side 38 PSI, high side 210 PSI (right in the middle of the normal ranges.) Air out of registers is COLD (I could not get you a reading, my thermometer is "hiding" somewhere in my toolbox.)
We could NOT have done this procedure without your excellent video! You saved us nearly $1000 in service work (on a car that isn't worth a whole lot more than that.)
may God bless you for helping the poor. Thanks to your fine video, i changed the ac pump and the power steering pump in an hour and fifteen mins. i can't thank you enough for saving me a good chunk of cash.
I've watched at least a dozen videos for this job and yours is the clearest and most complete.
I've noticed the same thing on several of your videos. Keep up the helpful work.
This video is great because it tells what size wrench is needed for the different nuts and bolts. That's a huge help as it saves time playing guess the wrench size.
Thanks Brian for saving the old farmer on this repair (and towing due to a locked up compressor pulley). Grabbed tools (new belt and compressor) to the road side and got it replaced to get home. Then properly recharging the system:
10mm Open End
10mm Socket
13mm Socket
15mm Open End
3/4" Fuel Line Tool
8mm Socket
Standard Bungee Cord
Standard Cat Claw
Standard Screwdriver
No need to pull the belly plate, as it's all 100% accessible from the top.
Thank you so much for this tutorial! I was able to find an almost new compressor at the junk yard and after I vacuumed it down and charged it, I now have cold air, which I have not previously had.
I used this video to successfully replace the A/C compressor. I also ended up replacing the Reciever/Drier and Orifice Tube on the car. Thanks for the video!!
My dad and i are changing one out on a friends Taurus, what a pain! Your vid helped us out a bit, thanks
Thank you sir you are very helpful and thorough on your video and description. I wish more people on UA-cam were as step by step as you are. They should use your video as a standard qualification for these tutorials. You are awesome thank you again
Toyota tech here. Replaced the compressor on my friends 99 after watching this video. I forgot the fuel line disconnects. FYI. in a pinch, cutting a bottle cap to fit, and hitting it in with a flathead and a vice grip as a hammer works to disconnect that one ac line. Took me about an hour to change the compressor out. Great video man. I expected the job to be much worse than it actually was.
Had mine out on 30 mins. I left fuse box in place, plenty of room. Remove belt. Remove pass side fan (1 bolt on a '96). Remove Power steering fluid line (1 hose clip) and plug line. Remove the AC lines (after Evac) and let them hang. Unplug AC wire harness. You can remove all 4 AC compressor bolts. 1st=upper right. 2nd lower right 3rd lower left 4th upper left (this one hits the fan shroud, so remove other 3, then unscrew that last one and leave it in the mounts. Compressor will slide out, then unplug clutch wire harness. Done.
Best video of all the different methods being used. HOWEVER, I had a hard time getting the bleeder bolt out due to space constraints. SOLUTION: Take the fans out first. I also was able to skip a step. I didn't disconnect the suction line to give myself more clearance. The compressor came out easily without that step. Great job though because I would have been completely lost without this video. Thanks.
true artist. i am a musician by trade but love to do my own car fixes. great to see a person in another trade with the passion of an artist. thank you for the help
Awesome videos Brian, thank you for taking time to produce these, makes DIY repairs so much easier
Just did this job. Your instructions were perfect. I did a couple things different, but had the same result. Thanks for making this video.
Nice video, I use offset box wrench on the tension pulley, easy to slip the half pipe on it from my floor jack to get a bit more leverage. I enjoy all you videos for the Taurus/Sable and the Edge models.
This video is great. Watching this video, along with the 1Aauto video, before attempting, and after watching Chris Fix testing videos.. Haynes/Chilton can't touch it. Thank you, as well as all the shade tree mechanics who post, for these videos. What one video may lack, the others fill in. This one doesn't seem to lack anything.
Super helpful video when I was fixing my '04 Taurus this weekend. Thanks, great video!
Thanks sir for the video, I did an ac job on an 04 mercury sable 3.0. It's all the same. What I learned is to cut some cardboard and tape it to radiator so I want damage it. I think my hardest part was holding the compressor in place till I got my bolt started. Tkx again
Hey bro I took my a.c. compressor the way u did it I just want to thx u that save a lot $$$$..
I was able to get to the compressor bolts and plug with the fans out of the way and an offset box wrench. Thank you for the clear video!
Good thing I checked it out with someone that had done it before or I would be very frustrated by now. Thanks a bunch.
Thank you for the great video Doing the work for a friend of mine who cant afford a garage and I was worried i would have to take the power steering pump off and everything.
thank you. I've done a couple of these compressors in Taurus. I have one at the shop I'm doing tomorrow and need some tips. your video was very good. get some more videos on here.
Great stuff. Your detail is practical and right to the point. No chatty fillers. My car is an 02 Merc Sable 3.0 ohv and the pulley wheel froze up. Just got the car. Had low coolant to start. How do I know its a rebuild I need and not the whole compressor. It did turn on right up til it froze up though not very cool cos of the low coolant. My guess is a rebuild. Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
Auglowd One If the center clutch turns ok then you can just rebuild the external components
I watched another video where the guy basically removes the alt and pwr steering pump as 1 assembly with removing the combo bracket. Have u seen this video? Trying figure which is the easier method. Great vid. By the way. Thanks for all ur help
Amazing video thank you for showing every step along the way it will help me on Sunday when I have to pull mine out
This is way easier than removing the sub frame. Thank you.
I think it was a very good job. Good details on everything. I have a 2004 taurus 3.0 and I'm sure they are the same. Thanks so much
good video and good idea man i just did the compressor on this car in like 2 hours. doing it your way definitely seems like the best way it is a little trick to get the fans out with the power steering line in the way but it’s definitely doable 👍
Doing this job today. Thanks for the video. I am sure it will be very helpful.
Thanks for this video man. Talk about a Royal F-Up of a job... DAMN!!! Thanks again, luckly our compressor only the clutch got loose because the bolt in the middle came off... Put it back on and its now back to normal...
The bolt in the middle of my ac compressor clutch came out also. Did you have to take the whole compressor out to replace it? I'm not able to get the bolt in without taking it out it seems
A zoom out would inform us of a complete viewing angle.
Great video. I was able to quickly get things down to the compressor on my 2000 Duratec with your video's steps. I decided to remove my radiator hoses for a little better access as the 10 mm bolts that hold the compressor on are pretty tight. Got to the last bolt like you and I rounded the head. Not sure how I managed to do that with a 10 mm six point socket but cars can be tough. Still deciding on the best way to grind the head off as I plan on installing a bypass pulley.
Thank you for the video. You made this process a lot easier for me.
Great step by step instructions !! I can always find what I need from you👍🏼👏✌️
If anyone has ever had your system not getting cold air into the cab try turning the cold dial all the way on and then backing off about 1/4 inch, the cold air will come flowing in. I learned this by accident after i spent $ 120.00d for a mechanic to tell me my ac system was fine but that i should look into checking my mix panels to see if they are moving properly. Come to find that the mix panels were fine but the problem was the ac dial would not let the cold air in until you would back the dial up a little from full on. Now i am that much smarter.
Thank you the only hang up I had was the reinstall... lining up the first bolt other than that perfect explanation and description
Thanks for the guidance, Brian. Well done, good lighting and volume, too. We found that with shorter 15mm box wrenches, the power steering and coolant reservoirs are in the way of getting leverage, so we took them out (10 minutes) An Offset wrench works much better.
I don't know if Brian will respond to this but I am facing having to replace the entire a/c system on my 2000 Taurus with 263k and I have a choice of compressors. YCC212 or YC2522. The only difference is the YCC212 includes the clutch. Which one would be the better choice for longevity especially since I plan on keeping this car and don't want to have to do this job again. Thank you for all your videos. They have helped me keep this car in the road since 98k when I bought it over 10 years ago..
So, I've done worse.... Had to change out an alternator and water pump on a 24V DOHC so.... That being said. I don't see this being a huge issue, but what do I have to do to the system before, after, and during the install. Meaning the coolant and the oil. I know I can't just pull out the bad compressor and then just throw a new one in. What will I need to do? And will a shop actually do it??? I know this is old, so hoping you reply. Thanks.
Very well done.
Just looking to see if it's the same as the SES with the DOHC.
Stuck doing a 2004 for my son...lol...
Thanks, I'll be checking out other vids from you. It was great on 2x speed.
You are a PRO for sure!! Thanks Makuloco
I found that it's easier if you remove the oxygen sensor, gives you more space to remove the compressor AND if you replace the AC manifold hoses that connects to the AC compressor.
Nice work. Hey, what gives with the air filter (2:00)? Looks like it's not seated fully or something.
No it is just and extra plush filter seal, I thought the same thing and checked the bottom tabs and even tried reseating it and it is just the way it is.
Thanks for making this video. Great job as always.. How about showing how to do on a 2000 taurus 24v Dohc v6...S not as easy for me..
Thanks for the informative video. I followed your steps on my 2001 Vulcan engine and all worked out well. Better than disconnecting the PS lines like some other recommend. One thing tough - I lost a lot of coolant during the teardown, I could swear it came from the block that bolts to the rear of the compressor. But that does not make any sense. It was not a trickle of compressor oil, it was at least a couple of quarts. How could that happen? Any help would be appreciated. I only lack replacing the orifice and pulling vacuum before charging again. I cannot figure out where the coolant came from.
THX Brian
Very thorough
IAM grateful for you
What year model was this Taurus? Does the same basic procedure apply to a 2003 Ford Taurus? Thanks in advance! Great video!
Yes they are all very similar.
My daughter's 2002 Taurus SEL wagon has the automatic temp control. The shop I took it to is going to remove the compressor and bypass it. Will this affect the auto climate control? They quoted me $1,100 for the removal of the compressor and install a bypass for the pulley or $1,700 to replace the compressor to have ac again. They said it's a lot of labor. They are a reputable shop. Do these estimates sound fair?
awesome. This would have helped the 1st time I did it. Now that my cheap compressor has broke, I need to replace again! This will be much easier. Last time I did everything from the top! :)
Video very helpful i was able to pull compressor out at the front of the 24 DOCH motor.
Thanks a lot for this video!
Sir, My wife's 2004 mercury sable ac compressor needs to be replaced..This is a better video that the rest .. my concern is how do you remove the refrigerant? and does it just get released into the air?
Our 2002 Windstar has this same issue (shocking, I know). There's about an inch or so between the compressor and the frame. Is it possible, in your experience, to sneak the clutch off and on without having to do anything else but take off that one bolt? It looks like it's close but I wonder if you've attempted this before. (I'm SURE there's no room for the pulley but I was hoping to sneak in just a new clutch to start with.) Thanks!
A new clutch may be possible but you will have to deal with the shims falling out.
I know. I'm not on the clock so I can take my time. I'll have my cardboard underneath just to be safe. I'm just wondering if there's enough room to snake it out of there. It's tight but looks like it might happen... maybe!
Thanks for the help . Not all heroes wear capes.
Hi dear I enjoy your videos. I have a question. I am working on a 98 mercury sable with bad clutch/compressor. Any suggestions on flushing the system after the compressor is replaced?
Great video
Is it legal to release the freon to the atmosphere?
ans is it necessary to put an AC oil when recharging the HVAC?
Thanks
No you must recover it, It is a good idea to put in between 1-2 oz of oil back in.
so this is probably a stupid question but is ther einstructions to evap the system? or if you dont have it to just evap to atmophere? yes I know you shouldnt do it sine it damages ozone layer.
I am looking at replacing both the A/C compressor and the power steering pump at the same time. Will it make it easier for me to get to the compressor if I remove the power steering pump first?
This was spot on. THANK YOU!
Saw you're video great help. Thanks for the video
Great video and really helpful
What so you do with all the refrigerant that is in the system already?? How do you remove it and put it back in?
You must have the system recovered.
@@FordTechMakuloco so if I don't have the equipment to do that, then it would be better to just take it to a mechanic
I followed your video and changed the compressor in my 2006 Taurus. Awesome job on the video!! I also changed the receiver/dryer and the orifice tube as well, but I think I created another problem. I had the battery disconnected for about a week and after reconnecting and trying to start the car to finish charging the a/c it wont crank. DId I erase the keys out of the pcm memory accidentally? If so do I need to tow it to the dealer to have them reprogrammed?
i know it's 6 years latsr, did you find out what went wrong?
Is it possible to replace the pulley and clutch without removing the compressor and evac and replace freon
+SAXONWARLORD1000AD You could leave the lines connected and just imply the compressor from the block then just maneuver the compressor around to work on it. It's tight but possible
Thanks for you quick reply - i dont see how the compressor will maneuver with the hard lines still in place,especially that large suction line you mention - can that be disconnected or do i have to evac the system first - I HATE THESE SIDE WAYS MOTORS - NO ROOM TO DO STUFF - simply change a pulley - ridiculous
Wat was the symptoms was the ac bad or just the ac clutch bearing
any repair on a 01 or 02 taurus with that kind of engine always helps thanks for your videos. on that type of engine does it come out the top side ?
TheTombstone3 Yes they all come out top side once cooling fans are removed.
Do you happen to have a video for a complete removal with hoses and dryer and reinstall?
jeffsond No but the compressor is the most complicated part the others just simply unbolt.
FordTechMakuloco ok thanks, I was hoping for any easy way to access the lines where it connects to the evaporator. Man what a knuckle buster. Can I flush the high side line that I took loose on the compressor? It connects to the condenser. I want to flush the condenser
jeffsond Any line can be removed and flushed with brake clean then thoroughly dried out.
FordTechMakuloco thanks again.
Can I leave it off? Like I got an 82inch belt that alows you to leave the ac compressor out of the mix but the belt sits on the pully. So I was wondering if I could just take the compressor off and leave it off.
Hey!!! What size are those bolts, the 4 that hold the compressor unit in place? Getting my A/C fixed in two days and have had no luck.
Do you have a tutorial video to remove and replace the AC compressor on a 2005 Ford Taurus SEL (V6 - 3.0L vin U 182ci 2986cc - MFI GAS OHV)?
damn I wish I would have watched this before I started this job today
Hello. I have a problem with my Taurus 2002 DOHC Duratec 24v 3.0L, the engine have some kind of grinding or screeching sound near the water pump. Always, no matter hot or cold. Very loud, from the inside sounds like my muffler fell down on the ground and Im pulling it..Do you have any idea what could it be? Thank you
My ac clutch engages for short periods of time with the ac off and it's winter time. Can I just unplug the clutch field coil wiring. harness.
Such a great help. Thank you very much.
If I am replacing the just the AC compressor with a compressor that come with 3oz of oil, should I add additional oil before replacing it?
Can you pull out the AC pulley without removing the whole compressor? I'm trying to bypass my compressor with a shorter belt, but I don't think there's enough clearance due to the pulley.
Read my post above
Can it just be eliminated completely and capped off and shorter belt thrown on? It's a farm car.
Thanks for video! Big help.
Hello..i bought a used ac compressor and i tested whit s battery and the clutch open but it doesnt spin by hand when is open..so is good or how can i know the used compressor is good before i got it installed?
Is there a way to just remove the clutch on the compressor without taking the whole compressor out? on my car just the clutch is dragging and the compressor is still good and I don't really want to evacuate the whole system if I dont have to.
There is room I believe to remove the clutch hub and pulley but it will be tricky getting the shims to stay in place upon assembly.
FordTechMakuloco I was interested in doing this as well on my 2001 Taurus. Just want to remove clutch and not replace. But, there isn't enough room to get a 1/4 inch drive socket wrench onto the 8 mm bolt that holds the clutch hub. Was wondering if there is a tool you could recommend that would fit. Guess would also need something to keep clutch from turning as you torqued the 8 mm bolt. Otherwise, I'll just remove the whole compressor and install one of those bypass pulleys. Appreciate the videos!
I'm working on the 24 valve. Its a lot tighter. Having one hell of a time trying to get the damn thing out.
Yeah, I was wondering if it would be harder on the 24 Valve V6.
@@jonathanbox3033 I ended up putting a bypass pully on it once I got it out.
Great video. Thank you.
What's up with the power steering line yours just seems to disappear around the time the fans came out ?
Nope it's still there muffler and all.
thank you for this video. God bless you. I need it.
How much would you charge for that kind job
how would a bypass pully fit on? I just bought one for a 99 Taurus 24 v dohc 3.0
you did mentioned that when installing new one, one needs to put oil inside new compressor, why?
You must oil the new compressor since the old one took some oil with it and that oil must be replenished.
@@FordTechMakuloco brother. You should have said at the video. I almost put it with mo oil. I watched your video to learned since I needed to learn. However your way of removing looks easier than removing all those items in the top.
Also, you should show when you unbolt too. Some of the bolts are hard to remove,amigo
is it the same procedure on a 2006 taurus and is it easy or is it hard to do
southernrebel69420 Yep just about all the Ford Taurus vehicles are the same.
FordTechMakuloco thank you because i have to replace this on my granddads 06 taurus
Anyone know if the compressor is the same in the OHV and DOHC? and are they same in 3 generation (1996-1999) as in the 4 generation (2000+)
I need to find the video for the compressor fix. I honestly just need it to spin because it snapped my serpentine belt. Dont care about ac at this moment. I just need a moving car without a $1500 bill 🤣
If i can fix the bearing on the compressor im gonna be a happy camper!
You Helped me Termendosly, Thanks For The Great Video
I keep seeing all of these 3.0L 12V AC compressor replacements which is not difficult. I am waiting to see someone show the 3.0L DOHC AC replacement.
Marc Smith Not bad on those either I beat time every time.
FordTechMakuloco
Being a Ford tech, I would hope so. It should be expected of us. I have owned a repair business for 9 years now after being a Mercedes Benz tech for several years and have beat it also, but the DIY'er will not. Doing both the first time, I am certain you will agree that the DOHC is much more difficult than the OHV simply due to physical space available.
Marc Smith The DOHC is a PITA. My compressor wheel froze up. I replaced it with a bypass wheel.
Marc Smith A real pain I had to disconnect radiator hoses to even get the bolts out and to remove the high pressure line off the back.. You have to actually force it out of the top of the engine.. there is absolutely no clearance. its easier to drop it back in because of gravity.. but it is not easy to reposition it because you have to actually reverse the modified process. You also need to put the bolt back in the front because you will not have the room to put it in once it is in position.. Ive been struggling with the dohc for 3 days now I have the old one out and trying to put the new one in and its an unpleasant operation. I wish someone made o video of the DOHC 16 valve duratec ac compressor installation...
Ray Harmacinski problem is you old and old people got weak backs so therefore takes days to do 3hr job....leave it to us young bucks pops
Thanks for the video. Can anyone tell me if there's a difference in a OHV vs DOHC a/c compressor?
Yoo im trying to replace my dryer and my ac compressor and my orifice tube on my 99 Ford Taurus SE and i got it all out and gotten my new accumulator and new compressor and the orifice tube but now do i flush it before i put in the new parts?????? Pls Help! Lol.