Made January, 1980, the Vermont Castings Resolute is a non-catalyst stove. Both top and front loading and with a unique cross-flow draft for efficient and complete combustion.
@@mikepottle6647 there is a coil spring attached to the draft door... It is designed to slowly close the draft door as the stove heats up. When working correctly you never have to mess with it. The only draft I mes with is leaving the front door slightly cracked open when first getting the fire going.
I just got the same stove to install in my house Cleaned it up put a nice white enamel coat on it But I’m having trouble finding a chimney attachment that matches the oblong flue Looks about 6 3/4 x 5 3/4 Any tips on where to look
I have a small version of the Vermont C. Resolute and have always had a problem with the flue lever on the right side releasing after I have locked it in place. I put a string on the right decorative surface and loop it around the lever handle as a safety "valve" for catching it and holding the flue door shut if I'm not around to hear it release. I'd rather just have the catch work. What do I do to fix the problem?
it works best with a good bed of ash. i do not use a grate or firebricks. my model is also a 1979 but has dual front doors and the coil/spring "automatic" airflow control, which works fine but occasionally needs tweaking. this was my first real wood stove and i got really used to the horizontal burn so i have to switch tending styles between our wood stoves. for something made in 1979, this stove was way ahead of its time.
@@rlfdny where did you learn how to use it? We just inherited a 2 door resolute 1979 in our new house and it's hard to find info about the specifics to this one so we're trying to learn quickly!
I just purchased one of these second hand and would like to know if there is anything special i should know about the installation because it is rear venting
balor7 The vent outlet can easily be converted to vertical (top) discharge by removing a few screws and switching the plates. This would eliminate the need for an elbow for vertical venting. I have this exact stove and changed from rear to top venting. Very simple to do! Enjoy!
Thanks for the video. Quick question: we just bought a house with this stove in it as well as another model from the same company. The other model has an ash catching/removal tray but this one doesn't appear to. How does one clean/remove the ash? It seems to just rest on the bottom of the stove.
The old fashioned way: Scoop it out with a ash shovel, then an ash vacuum if you want it spotless. I use a cat litter box scoop to separate the ash from the coals.
i have this exact stove connected to fireplace - burn wood inside - and have the coal parts but not sure how they fit inside - i would like to continue to use for wood then when I have a really hot bed of wood coals lay some stove coal on top to burn through night. Any ideas. i also hears the coal heat will help dry out any creosote inside the flue
+Mike Carrington I just got the same stove did you install the exhaust pipe on rear mount with crimped end to stove or uncrimped end to stove. the manual said to put uncrimped into rear of stove. need help
I have the same damn stove but the front door is 2 instead of one .. have you had any luck in keeping an all night warm fire ?? I have had zero luck with it ! It has an automatic damper? And no matter how.much I fill it it will only last like 3 hours
@@dudehere1100 I found the trick .. see the wall behind it is all brick I used an old arrow shaft to position against the brick and wedge the damper door to only open as far as I want it to !.. it has helped alot but it will still be out in about 7 hours unless filled with only hard wood maple seems to be the best so far huge amount of heat for the wood needed .. I close the damper till I feel it's good enough to let air in but not to much then set the arrow shaft ( any metal rod type thing) so the bottom tip touches the damper vent and just set the top of the rod against the wall behind in my case it is brick but any lil indent will make it so it can't move keeping the damper where ya want it but again my best yet is like 7 hours .. it's chilly when I wake up but only maybe 58 degrees which is decent and no pipes freezing potentially ya could maybe go longer but the fire is out when I get up and have to start over most times .. ya can bank the coals ( look that up) but banking them doesn't help the heat at all from what I can tell it just keeps them going so when ya wake up ya can move them around and just toss in a log and be ok without lighting it again helpful but not helpful in the idea of full over night heat
FYI I have this stove and the one in the video is missing the very important spring mechanism that automatically adjusts that rear draft door.
Could you explain the automatic spring draft door please?
@@mikepottle6647 there is a coil spring attached to the draft door... It is designed to slowly close the draft door as the stove heats up. When working correctly you never have to mess with it. The only draft I mes with is leaving the front door slightly cracked open when first getting the fire going.
We have this stove, but after nearly 45 years of use, its needs to be refurbished. Is there anyone or place that does that?
Do you use firebricks in this stove?
Is there a way to put a glass window/insert onto the door?
I just got the same stove to install in my house
Cleaned it up put a nice white enamel coat on it
But I’m having trouble finding a chimney attachment that matches the oblong flue
Looks about 6 3/4 x 5 3/4
Any tips on where to look
I have a small version of the Vermont C. Resolute and have always had a problem with the flue lever on the right side releasing after I have locked it in place. I put a string on the right decorative surface and loop it around the lever handle as a safety "valve" for catching it and holding the flue door shut if I'm not around to hear it release. I'd rather just have the catch work. What do I do to fix the problem?
do you use a grate or fire bricks in yours?
it works best with a good bed of ash. i do not use a grate or firebricks. my model is also a 1979 but has dual front doors and the coil/spring "automatic" airflow control, which works fine but occasionally needs tweaking. this was my first real wood stove and i got really used to the horizontal burn so i have to switch tending styles between our wood stoves. for something made in 1979, this stove was way ahead of its time.
@@rlfdny where did you learn how to use it? We just inherited a 2 door resolute 1979 in our new house and it's hard to find info about the specifics to this one so we're trying to learn quickly!
I just purchased one of these second hand and would like to know if there is anything special i should know about the installation because it is rear venting
+balor7 No, there's nothing special about it. Just use an elbow if you need to and vent as normal.
+Al Hunt Thank you!
balor7 The vent outlet can easily be converted to vertical (top) discharge by removing a few screws and switching the plates. This would eliminate the need for an elbow for vertical venting. I have this exact stove and changed from rear to top venting. Very simple to do! Enjoy!
Thanks for the video. Quick question: we just bought a house with this stove in it as well as another model from the same company. The other model has an ash catching/removal tray but this one doesn't appear to. How does one clean/remove the ash? It seems to just rest on the bottom of the stove.
The old fashioned way: Scoop it out with a ash shovel, then an ash vacuum if you want it spotless. I use a cat litter box scoop to separate the ash from the coals.
i have this exact stove connected to fireplace - burn wood inside - and have the coal parts but not sure how they fit inside - i would like to continue to use for wood then when I have a really hot bed of wood coals lay some stove coal on top to burn through night. Any ideas. i also hears the coal heat will help dry out any creosote inside the flue
+Mike Carrington I just got the same stove did you install the exhaust pipe on rear mount with crimped end to stove or uncrimped end to stove. the manual said to put uncrimped into rear of stove. need help
uncrimped on stove crimped goes inside nect length of pipe
I have the same damn stove but the front door is 2 instead of one .. have you had any luck in keeping an all night warm fire ?? I have had zero luck with it ! It has an automatic damper? And no matter how.much I fill it it will only last like 3 hours
Yes, I had the same issue. This stove puts out a lot of heat, but will burn through wood quickly.
@@dudehere1100 I found the trick .. see the wall behind it is all brick I used an old arrow shaft to position against the brick and wedge the damper door to only open as far as I want it to !.. it has helped alot but it will still be out in about 7 hours unless filled with only hard wood maple seems to be the best so far huge amount of heat for the wood needed .. I close the damper till I feel it's good enough to let air in but not to much then set the arrow shaft ( any metal rod type thing) so the bottom tip touches the damper vent and just set the top of the rod against the wall behind in my case it is brick but any lil indent will make it so it can't move keeping the damper where ya want it but again my best yet is like 7 hours .. it's chilly when I wake up but only maybe 58 degrees which is decent and no pipes freezing potentially ya could maybe go longer but the fire is out when I get up and have to start over most times .. ya can bank the coals ( look that up) but banking them doesn't help the heat at all from what I can tell it just keeps them going so when ya wake up ya can move them around and just toss in a log and be ok without lighting it again helpful but not helpful in the idea of full over night heat
If this seems confusing let me know and I will try to better explain