2 Ways to Flash an Undershot on a Shingle Roof
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- Опубліковано 9 лип 2024
- The undershot is the one of the most difficult areas to waterproof on a roof. You won’t easily find instructions online on how to protect this difficult and hard-to-reach area. In this video we’ll show you 2 ways to make sure you properly install roofing around this area of the roof.
0:00 Intro
0:13 explanation
1:02 first method
5:36 second method
This video is from our latest series, “The Shingle Roof Install Guide,” where we will walk you through every step of the process when installing a brand new shingle roof. From the drip edge to ice and water shield, from starter strip to flashing, we will give you all the details on how to install a shingle roof.
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Let me know below if you use a different method for flashing an undershot!
I see that you replied to others, see my question above, thanks!
I would be similar but make sure the shingle can slide under the face of the drip edge and use flashing cement- No dry fitting:)
Here in Canada, we pull out the sheet going into the valley off the dormer and take out 2 or 3 pieces of soffit, that way you can actually put full shingles and step all the way up under.. should be able to get that whole wall step'd on the inside, should never have to nail step flashing to a fascia . Only takes an extra 2 minutes to do it the right way .
Thanks for the video first one I found showing this detail
Ditto! This video has been so helpful. I have referred back to it a few times while making my shingle and flashing repairs.
Thanks Andre. Well done detail - added to my Shingle Install Best Practices playlist for training salesmen and installers.
Thank you, honored to be on your playlist :)
Just what I was looking for, thanks for the great video!
Glad I could help!
THANK YOU. Made me feel much more confident about this little detail on my roof job
Glad I could help
@@RoofRepairSpecialist
It would not pass inspection beother
Well, I live in Ohio and I thought this was a very good explanation and instructional video. Thanks so much and refreshing to watch a video where the camera is not held with one hand while the roofer struggles using the other hand to make a repair.😊
Glad it was helpful!
It takes a roofer to put your roof on and this guy is not one no matter how good his camera work is.
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. It's really helpful for me to make sure water leak my new project.
Happy to help!
WOW I LOVE LOVE your clips. I have been looking for this. None of my roofers have shown me any confidence.
Glad I could help!
These are the most comprehensive how to videos ever …. Thank You For your Hard Work and professional instruction 👍👍
Obrigado pelo esclarecimento.
No Problem
Beautiful
Thank you
I love your your channel. You covered everything, except for one thing. How about a video on replacing a roof and shingling around the a.c. unit. Keep up the good work my friend.
That is a good and much needed idea. One of the most common leak locations. Thank you for your support!
So first and second methods are acceptable?
So with the first method, the valley overhangs the area? The fascia trim coil would come cover the raw wood fascia board? You will still have raw board exposed? Is the whole protection the part where rain will travel past the exposed board?
I love that outside flashing under the solid boards1 Is there a video on that? just subbed - thanks.
Thanks for subscribing. I believe your referring to the Z bar flashing at the wall, if so we don’t yet.
It is important to bid these details properly and that is to remove the plywood above to access the area under the eave, install ice & water, shingles, step flashing, then install new plywood.
Removing plywood definitely helps make things easier. 100% agree that people need to bid jobs correctly.
. Doing it that way every contractor will love you if your doing piece work but if your getting paid by the hour contractors might get a little pissed lol
. I love your tutorials my man keep up the good work.
Could you show a detailed video on how to start a hipped roof that run to the bottom of a gable end which would be the same on both sides of the deck. Thanks for posting good stuff:)
Not sure I follow. Did you check out the rest of the videos we have up?
Yes. Great stuff. I’m try to see how you start a roof with hip that would run up 8 ft on both sides of the deck, then connect to a gable on both side of the deck. I hope that explains better
@@dedersamorano2786 Are you talking about a Dutch-style roof?
I need to add this. Always wet and moss growing under there. The damn gutters drain there too. Roofers and gutter guys messed me up. Also had a buy build bird boxes for me and didnt flash the outside of facia. Also no metal in valleys. I have 4 of them to do. Hope when I have my house roofed they can fix the 4 dormers on my shop out back. Did a man cave and just more things to fix. Im learning
You live and learn.
As soon as the deck is completely covered underneath, step flashing goes against the fascia, and fold it over the top of the fascia and under the drip edge, so there is no gaps and fully waterproof with no caulk! You should never need caulk or “mastik” when waterproofing.
I agree, Caulk and Mastic should only be used as a secondary line of difference and not be exposed to the elements.
What is you take on the leaving the step flashing exposed at the bottom of the shingle or hide it under the shingle?
@@johnnyrocket9372 I leave up to 1/2” exposure. Once water hits the bottom of the flashing it can wick like any other edge and this keeps it from wicking under shingles from the step flashing. I line my step to the top of the head lap and go. Mostly malarkey so that’s 1 1/2” of over lap then with the 1/2” I leave out it’s 2 inch of overlap.
Preference is to hide the edge of the step flashing UNDER the next shingle row . . . Just above the offset line. Trick is for it to be an invisible solution to a water intrusion problem. Andre’s way of installing is perfectly fine and just a different look.
There is nothing much to us beside grab urself a piece of cap sheet self-adhering and through on there 😅u can even tourch it
What we would do on new construction jobs is pry up the dormer plywood in the valley and run the shingles straight up through the valley behind the dormer plywood and then nail the plywood back down, put the drip edge & ice and water on and then start shingling the dormer. That way you don’t have to cut any part of the shingle off.
That will definitely work.
The 😊only right way
I would like to see a video on how you would handle a roof to wall flashing that involves siding.
That is on my list. It's tricky having to cut old siding and retrofitting it without removing the siding.
It would be easier if you took the facier off shingle underneath then put the facier back on . Or is that too easy
It depends on how long the fascia is and how it’s installed. I personally think this is easier.
I think the best way is step two I do it that way
This is good to see, but I would say this is an ideal situation where clear remedies are possible. In my case the slope is much shallower so it is not even possible to reach under the smallest point. Also my undershot is a lot deeper, also making it very difficult to reach under to work. On top of that, my wall is not smooth like shown here, but is old aluminum siding (I'm told no longer available) that has large gaps left over from an older roof where shingles were bent upward and badly tarred over. I thought of just closing in the undershot with plywood but cannot use tools like hammer or nail gun in the small angle to install treated wood to build a structure. Obviously the expensive roofers I hired last had no idea how to treat this area, and as good as this video is, it still does not present a workable solution in the case I face.
Every roof is a bit different and a good roofer will need to tweak things to make things work.
In your case you would need to remove the sheathing directly over the undershot. This way you can easily install your shingles and metal shingles and if need be extend the end wall flashing all the way up to the vertice( point where the top of the bottom sheathing meets the bottom sheathing of the valley piece that is directly above) in other words the piece you had to remove to get your coil nailer in that tight area to apply your nails correctly. Pull out your angle finder and copy the same degree of angle as the facia board that this gentleman is closing off with metal step flashing. You can also copy the measurement of the gap from the angled facia to the roof deck for your endwall piece as well. You do work like that and every contractor will love you as long as you are doing piece work but if you are getting paid by the hour most contractors will get passed off because of the time involved to do it the way I explained. This video here is how you do it getting paid by the hour with a handy pneumatic palm nailer to allow you to nail the shingles without having to remove the upper deck sheathing and the very last course where even the palm nailer can't nail due to clearance restriction you glue in that part with caulking or mastic😊
Should've trimmed the Drip edge away from roof for the Shingles to go under it for more shingle coverage..
That is what I did in the first way. 2nd option is to use step flashing.
why not do both of those steps and then add closure flashing? Looks like if you only did the flashing (2nd example), there would be exposed decking where the soffit of dormer meets the roof deck. If you put shingles all the way up and under the soffit as far as possible (your 1st example) and add flashing as you showed, you would eliminate the exposed decking and the flashing would add barrier to water getting to end of facia board at roof (causing water to absorb into facia and rot). Finally add closure flashing piece under soffit to keep water from getting under the shingles where soffit meets roof.
Is that the Z bar on the siding ?
Yes
Question: For eaves and rakes, do you ensure that there is a gap between the fascia and the drip edge vs. tight against the facia when nailed in? Do you believe that T shapes drip edge is preferred on a 10/12 pitch roof... and then an L shape gutter apron be installed low pitch (and how does this affect when you 90 degree wrap up to the rakes?) I do hope you monitor your questions, thanks!
I will try to break down your questions.
1) We ensure a small gap between the drip edge and fascia, you want to easily be able to slide a gutter in if needed. You can watch our drip edge video for that.
2) In southern California we do not have T Shape drip edges, however I have seen them and like the idea. I think it'll provide a clean finish around the roof. I don't think T shape vs regular drip edge matters on the pitch, I think it can be used regardless.
On the gutter apron you just stick out the starter strip 1/2",
D style drip edge has the advantage of guessing how much 1/2" is lol, and plus gives you better refernce point to chalk your lines, 17 ½" (tamko. Other shingles may vary) first chalk will let you have a fresh start because the drip edge might not be fully square along the whole way and can then affect the entire rest of roof lol
@@hondaservicecenter D metal flashing is great it takes out all the eye ball bullshit by simply lining up your starter flush to the edge😊😊😊😊
@@dylansean8279 yeah but facia and decking arent always straight or square. Chalk your lines
That is a sure way to have a leak, just wait till the gutter is on, but it is a good presentation .
I’m referring to the example from 2:46-4:46. Thank you tho for the good explanation.
Is your concern wind driven rain? I'm curious to hear what can be done differently?
You began it well, but that would not pass our final roof inspections. That upper drip edge should not be on yet. Shingle up as tight as you can get to the structure/fascia wood. Even if your shingles get through underneath the undershot we still step flash it. Still good content my man, but just letting you know some improvements you can make. These are best practices for our company here in SE michigan.
Also, use the butt end of your hammer to push trim tighter, never metal tools on trim.
Interesting. I appreciate your input. How do you step flash is even if your shingles go all the way under?
Can you give me a person in the South Chicago suburbs who can do the work for me?
Sorry, don’t have a solid referral in that area.
@@RoofRepairSpecialist Thanks for replying sir.
How bout you cut the Drip edge with the facia and slide all the shingles to the back you might have to lift the decking and remove the nails. Until the face of the shingles pass the valley. The you put felt or storm guard. Guarantee will never leak . What you did will never pass inspections
garage video, where is shingles undrneath you?
I think you should be watching videos on how to put together a coherent sentence.
There’s a lot I don’t feel ur doing is right. But to each there own should step card up it and v cut last card into valley then run another step card in the valley to cover pin hole. if there is one at that. Also your not cutting your Shingle to go up into the valley for ur weave to start just my two sense.
Whats a step card? Step flashing?
@@RoofRepairSpecialist ya
when i saw the gun i knew it was gonna be a leaker
The Nailgun? Why you hand nail?
Yup gotta use a palm nailer.
Nop that omit that way to do it
?
What a hack
Thank you
2nd method all way. Delete first method please
Are you concerned about wind driven rain? or fascia bord rotting?
nope
Back at you.
Well that will not work in Florida my friend- That is why we are reluctant to hire northern roofers- Must teach them all over.
Ya, I know. Florida is a different beast.
You doing it WRONG
Verry Insightful.
You supposed to install the shingle pass at the very end of the valley instead cutting it .
Is this a comedy skit?
Glad I could make you laugh
Come on man how long have you been roofing pull that sheathing off get all the way underneath that before you continue your valley You may also have to put some beauty pieces under there, so they can’t see it from the ground. Call an expert.
Lol
That's a leak. Good thing not much rain there. Hahaha. Have to get the shingle under the sheeting not cut the shingle
Thats one way to do it.
Con todo respeto pero a este señor le falta mucho para empezar no uniera clavado la primera teja esos clavos ban arriba 😢
I shouldve watched thie yesterday 🫤
Was scratching my head
Haha, how did you do?
@@RoofRepairSpecialist well we had 50 mph wind and terrible storm last night, havent received any calls about it yet lol
Keep to paper work.
Always! You can do my dirty work.