Roof Flashing & Wall Leaks - What Texas Roofer Don't Know
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- Опубліковано 2 жов 2024
- This video shows an abutment, (the joining of the roof to a side-wall), Turn-back Wall Flashing, and the Improper Use of Ice & WaterShield, now creating problems. This is a common problem that causes roof leaks along walls. It also shows the importance of using Step Flashing in place of Turn-back Flashing, how to install step flashing, and why it keeps on working when other flashings fail.
Addressing Home Owner's Roof Problems - Not Just Replacing Shingles:
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Exactly you're 100% correct anyone doing roofing that should common sense and I'm not even a roofer I'm just a repairman/ handyman that makes common sense repairs
Gary - I think the sad part is you likely have mostly home owners on here and not the professionals we paid to do this work for us the first time. Great video. Step flashing looks like the way to go.
Thanks for caring about quality. We need you in Arizona!!
Great video! I’ve been battling (from the ground) a problem area in a roof/abutment/valley transition area for several years now. During certain rain situations water runs down the inside of a window in our breakfast-area. Had a contractor come out 6-7 years ago and his solution was to run an ugly bead of clear silicone between the turn-back flashing and the shingles. It seemed to have worked...then we had our house re-roofed three years ago and the dripping at the window has happened a couple of times since. The contractor who put the new roof on is coming today to see what can be done. I think he’s under the impression that he’ll do what the first guy did and just spread some silicone around. I want something permanent and fundamentally sound. I’ve noticed for many years that contractors in the Baytown, TX area seem to be fly-by-night and are into quick fixes rather than long-term remedies.
Jim, thanks for your comment. Yes, it is like cancer that continues to grow in our industry. Best of luck in getting your new roof installed well.
Hey Gary Tim here Vincents Roofing La grange Texas . You are right if I had any pieces of Ice and water shield You could run a piece at least 6 inches up the wall and same on deck . Step flashing is good as you layer the flashing on it forms a high ridge that also steers the water away from the wall . . Our company has a 20ft brake and we form all our own flashing out of at least 26 g and with a himm back and ice and water that works too . . I leave it up to my crew how they want to do it .
Phew! I'm about to do the step flashing on a porch abutment and was going to caulk up my flashing. Now I'm not gonna have to have Gumbi bail me out. Thanks! And I've got Ice n Shield run just like you said, so the nail hole has some good protection below it anyway on the flashing. Should be a home run finished product tomorrow. :-)
This is helpful as I'm about to tackle a small leak that roofers have twice failed to fix. Since I'm a new at this, it would be helpful to know specifically which nails you recommend.
Roofing nails like the rest of your roof. Here's another video that could help. ua-cam.com/video/pLLyt5AjGYk/v-deo.html At 2:27 in the video you will see the placement of the step flashing and nail. Best of luck.
I've been roofing for 12 years. I've never seen turnback flashing. We always used step flashing and anything else seems stupid. I also live in an area with LOTS of trees and cold winters. Real roofers don't cut corners.
Thanks for your comment!
the most informative video I've seen on roof flashing! Very genuine and got to see the pros and cons of each system not just an opinion great job on the video 👍
I DONT SEE WHAT TEXAS HAS TO DO WITH YOUR VIDEO
BUT IF YOUR A ROOFER YOUR A ROOFER.
JUST KEEP MY STATE OUT OF YOUR HEADLINES PARTNER.
PULL YOUR PANTS UP.
I was a roofer in the north East for many years in the beginning of my construction career. I worked for a roofing company in Rockland County, NY and we did an average of 200 roofs a year (4 man crew). the rest of the time accounted for siding jobs, and gutter work. I have done thousands of roofs. Step flashing is roofing 101. Step flashing PROPERLY is roofing 102.
Caring about what your doing and doing it right is the AMERICAN way !!
You seem to know your way around a roof so I'll ask you the same question I posted on this vid. I am planning on re-roofing my home this summer. I have a dormer that has two sidewalls that come in contact with my roof (front of dormer is flush with exterior wall of house so does not contact my roof). I live in Michigan and here are the codes I have found: per Michigan residential code "R905.2.8.3 Sidewall flashing: Base flashing against a vertical sidewall shall be continuous or step flashing and shall be not less than 4 inches (102 mm) in height and 4 inches (102 mm) in width and shall direct water away from the vertical sidewall onto the roof or into the gutter. Where siding is provided on the vertical sidewall, the vertical leg of the flashing shall be continuous under the siding. Where anchored masonry veneer is provided on the vertical sidewall, the base flashing shall be provided in accordance with this section and counterflashing shall be provided in accordance with Section R703.8.2.2. Where exterior plaster or adhered masonry veneer is provided on the vertical sidewall, the base flashing shall be provided in accordance with this section and Section R703.6.3." I have siding on the vertical walls of my dormer so I need "continuous" flashing up the vertical leg of the sidewalls. This is where it gets tricky for me. According to the Michigan Building Code: "1503.2.1 Locations Flashing shall be installed at wall and roof intersections, at gutters, wherever there is a change in roof slope or direction and around roof openings. Where flashing is of metal, the metal shall be corrosion resistant with a thickness of not less than 0.019 inch (0.483 mm) (No. 26 galvanized sheet)." Is step flashing considered "continuous"? Regardless, I can not find anything in continuous or step flashing that is 0.019 inch thick, not at my local big box stores anyway. Any suggestions??
Step flashing is “absolutely” continuous along the sidewall, it overlaps, no gaps.
I believe the codes were written so as to allow different flashing methods, such as step flashing, or, dare I say, “turn back flashing”. USE STEP FLASHING !!!! Don’t ever use turn back flashing for asphalt shingles.
If you can’t source .024 or thicker gauge step flashing locally, (that’s odd), just order it online, or, order a 24” x 50’ aluminum trim coil in .024 gauge for $110 ish. Most common is white one side and brown the other. You will have more than enough for your roof, and you will have enough left over for other projects. If you need a special color, that won’t be an issue.
Just cut 8”x8” squares and bend them into 90 degree 4”x4” steps. Unless, of course, your using a carriage house shingle, you will have to make them longer. Just make sure your step flashing length matches your shingle exposure PLUS the head lap, at the very least.
@@yzmoto80 THANK YOU VERY MUCH!! The "continuous or step flashing" part was confusing the crap out of me. I was looking online at the preformed step flashings at my local big box stores like Lowes, Menards, and Home Depot. They all sell it but from what I saw most, if not all, of it is 0.012 thick yet code states minimum 0.019 thick. I did see they (well, at least my local Menards does) had the trim coil in 0.019 thick. I knew I wanted step flashing and I wanted it to be at least 0.019 thick per code. I think I'm going to have to go the trim coil route. Thank you VERY much for taking the time to reply to me!!
budyjames77
Your welcome, be safe !
I just saw the video you're referring to, the underlayment stopped short like more than a foot away from the wall, then they only slid the peel and stick under the flashing and nailed the fuck out of it. There's even a comment under the video that says "My man is getting paid by the nail" hahaha.
The funniest part was the guy talking about it with such confidence in his voice, you would think that's exactly how it's supposed to be done 😄
This is why i'm educating myself on the subject - it's real easy to fool a homeowner that doesn't know anything about it.
Good information Gary....it is right on..
I prefer to nail my step flashing high enough that the next row of step flashing covers the nail head. I've never even seen turn back flashing used on any job. Permanent or perminate?
MANY PUT THE 2ND SHINGLE RIGHT ON TOP OF THE STARTER W/0 ANY SEPARATION OF DISTANCE (2) LAYERS!!!!
Now you had 18 slap nuts to dislike you showing the proper way to avoid having to do a job again... I always told my guys it’s two ways to do something. The right way and again....
Even if the peel and stick method here were to seal 100 % it's still wrong as it does not shed water to the top of each row of shingles as step flashing, will do. You don't want water running under your shingles. On top is better.
That is correct -many people miss that detail. Thanks for your comment.
You should make sure your step flashing covers the top of the bottom mat or else in some situations the water can run sideways(horizontal water traverse) along that and to the nails and get in
Good explanation.nothing wrong with old tradition either.same like black and white 📺 they last long time even if you crack it still worked 😃.touch screen soon you touch it its broke.thank you
Im a 45 year builder, never had a call back from using step flashing. I used it exclusively in Austin when I lived there too. All the Texans turned their nose up on my step flashing, but I never lost money on call backs regardless of the rain.
Thanks for the comment. Do you mind if I Quote You? GW
No problem. Anyone who was properly trained knows step flashing is superior. Turn back flashing is for shortcuts and call backs
Great video..I would not put a nail in your flashing on the roof . Nail it high on the wall. Also aluminum step flashing is flexible and doesn't need a nail on the roof. I live in Maine. Weather doesn't get much worse than here
Aluminum works just fine. We just don't like mixing steel nails and aluminum! Also, the nails go where the shingles nail. Empirical evidence has shown me that nailing them works best. Allowing the shingles to separate, even for a short time in our climate, allows dust and dirt to get between the shingles, which can lead to an area not sealed. If you're happy with your way, stick to it, it's good to know people like you are doing it right.
Good modified bitumen (ice guard) will seal around the nail shaft as well. Use a good bitumen wrapped up the wall and when you drive your nails through the flashing, the shaft of the nail will get a little seal when that roof gets to a good 170+ degrees. Granted, there are ALOT of nails up there, and probably impossible to think every nail gets totally sealed... but use a good ice guard product and you'll increase your chances.
I just had a new roof installed. Water was coming in through the flashing on the dormers. Roofers came back twice, and even though it’s not leaking as bad now, I still see a little bit of water coming in on certain rain storms. I’ve giving up on the roofers as they obviously can’t find the problem. Wonder if you do work in San Antonio, Tx too. Don’t know that I can trust anyone else to do it right.
Let's schedule a visit gw@exteriorsbygarywhillock.com
Gary - I hope you are still answering questions. I was disappointed to find out that siding has to be removed to do the roof/wall intersections correctly. The siding is rated for 50 years, but the roof, no. And I can't do all of it at the same time. Question - is it possible to put a strip of metal counterflashing under the lapsiding (with house wrap over it) along the whole wall that you could then slip new step flashing under? I am trying to find a way to not have to take off the siding. Also, where do home owners find good flashing when we are stuck mainly with the big box stores that sell substandard materials.
Stephen, "Outstanding Question".
And, YES, counter flashing is a great way to deal with this issue. You will need to have it fabricated at a sheet metal shop, it's a common thing for experienced sheet metal workers.
It's a Zee style flashing, typically 4" behind siding, out 3/4" or a measurement that looks good with your siding, then down 3" with a hem on the bottom. This can be galvanized, paint grip or colored metal. Best of luck on your work. GW
@@Austinroofingcontractors Wow! Thanks for the quick response. Just to be absolutely clear - if I put the Z-flashing under the house wrap and lap siding then I can slip step flashing under when I do the roof and I don't have to remove any siding? (And which of the metals is the most durable?) Thanks in advance. (PS - would be a cool video. This siding/roofing question is clearly addressed on UA-cam or anywhere else.)
Yes.you are.right. lm.in. austin. Roofing. For. 25 years. & all. My. Roof .never. have. Problem. I.know. .all. flashing..👍👍👍
Thanks so much for taking time and showing us the professional way! 🤜🤛
The problem here in Okla. are the illegals who 6 weeks before becoming a so called master carpenter/roofer, never before picked up a hammer in their life. Then many of the top contractors are too busy counting their profits or hustling the next job to give any supervision or proper instruction. So the contractors are the the real problem, causing me at 60 to have to do it one more time myself. Don't get me wrong I'm not complaining, since I always end up with a ripped 6 pack after every roof job, and the best roof job in the hood.
Lost me at “Confusing, I guess..” Too big a word for you?..
Yes, probably so! I am a simple guy! Thanks for watching! GW
What about the vertical wall? When it rains The water is going to run down the wall n under the flashing.u didn't address that at all.u only talk about one side of flashing, about the other side
Hi, how long does a brick and Mortor 30 pound felt roof underlayment last before it starts leaking when exposed to the elements because the spanish tiles broke? The roof is a spanish stile brick and Mortor original from 2004. Thanks.
Good video but a little too much rambling. Needs some editing because there’s about two minutes information max and a lot more video than that.
Thanks Gary for the info! ....I'm re-roofing our 106 year old house with a dormer (an abutment 🤣) and had my answers by watching your videos. I think I seen your competitor's video on the ice and water going just under the flashing and not the sidewall. I'm not a roofer by any means but I knew he was doing it wrong from the get go .I do landscaping and I understand pitch and I always said water is lazy .It will take the path of least resistance and in your competitor's video that would mean towards the sidewall and down in .Thank you for my answers to my questions my friend, GOD BLESS ! 👍🙂
Thanks for watching the videos! Best of luck on your remodle. GW
Always think like a drop of water trying to get to the ground by the easiest route possible. Step flashing is the best way to defeat the drop of water going through the roofing and flashing system to get to the ground.
Super helpful. I'm a homeowner with no plans on doing roofing when there are professionals. But, I always try to gain some understanding of what is going on to help me pick the right pros. Thanks again.
Can confirm that in Hell Paso, contractors are still acting like we're in the 70's when it comes to roofing. My roof was supposed to have been brand new, 5 years ago... now I am ripping off everything they did to DIY a fix cuz I can't trust anyone. I had 4 roofers come over and tell me there was nothing wrong! 2 inches of tar against the wall is not fine... especially when these cheapskates used Drywall instead of osb on my walls! Holy cow.
First I wanna say thank you Mr. Gary.
I have a new home that leaks at the Dormer / no flashing on upper end / I have a great lawyer.
Problem: Contractors. It dont cost 3k USD to flash a dormer...lol..
Please come fix my incorrect flashing on my roof that was replaced in 2018! The roofer actually did not replace any of the old flashing and we constantly have leaks. I’m in San Antonio! Help!
Excellent Video! Just one question, since the wall flashings are partially on top of one another, doesn’t this overlap create a tiny gap between the wall flashing and the wall? I get that the ice and water barrier should run up to the wall so if water were to get behind the flashing it shouldn’t be an issue, but I would be concerned with how long vertical ice and water could hold up before gravity starts pulling it away from the wall.
It amazes me when I see that crap flashing in the wild. I always rant about how can someone think that’s a good idea. Maybe goes a little further with synthetics since organic felt will deteriorate staying wet sandwiched under shingles. Once that happens it just seeps and may not even get into the living space. Then the whole deck rots down the whole “abutment” rafter and all. It can do that and never get in the house for 15 years! I’ve repaired it.
Also seen people using ice and water as flashing tape on metal flashings.
From the Great Northwest public Duck Blind I spoke too soon I'm finishing watching the rest of this like I say that shingle step must come down to the Salvage line what happens water comes down the side it will hit that laminate shingle and draw a cross the deck here in the Northwest we know that okay God bless spoke too soon I'll watch the rest
Hi Garry sir, what about roof with tiles, like italian roof, is there any special flashing? thanks
Red, thanks for watching, and yes, there's a great need for special flashing on tile projects. Here's a look at a project on our website; www.exteriorsbygarywhillock.com/projects/villa-on-lake-travis/ and here's an article I posted just this morning, copper blind valleys; www.exteriorsbygarywhillock.com/copperblindvalley/ Keep watching the videos, I will try to get more "how to" videos up on the various types of work! Thanks for a very good question! GW
Just had my roof done. Step flashing done & top part covered with stucco
Yes; “water on top of the roofing!”
No cheers for Big Box stores. I hate them!
Up in the midwest, we'll run the ice and water up the wall when we get the opportunity and run the step flashing.
If you are replacing the shingle of roof, do you recommend reusing the existing step flashing or replacing the step flashing with new one?
Good question, we replace all the flashings using 26 gauge galvanized on most step flashing, 4 x 5 x 9". GW
We replace them. Our standard is to use a 4" x 5 " x 9" and it's rare to find these anywhere on existing roofs.
Step flashing along a wall, starts with a water/ice shield directly on the deck,followed by synthetic underlayment, followed by step flashing,followed by your shingles, no chaulking, no pooky, is this correct ? Nails on step flashing go on the wall, not the roof, correct ?manny garcia
Interesting and here's a question, food for thought. What does the Ice and WaterShield do, if it doesn't turn up the wall? If the step flashing is done correctly, what does it do at all? Thanks for your input - we should all keep asking Qs. GW
That's how it should be done 😊
Use step flashing then when you get into a tight spot use that flashing
This is ABSOLUTELY the best, no nonsense, ACTUAL COMMON SENSE video I have EVER SEEN on proper flashing details! Thank you SO MUCH for sharing your very professional knowledge with us! ❤️ 🔥 🎉
Thanks for the compliment, thanks for watching, and you are very welcome! GW
Run your ice and water 4 inchs up the abutment
How about using a full continuous length 26Ga painted metal L-Flashing, say 12" x 12" x A',
where the length A' = 20' long? Yes, the 3' wide underlayment will go on top of the lower wing of the
flashing and loops over the other wing? The starter strip will be installed at the bottom edge
of the roof. Then, the shingles will be installed on top of this long metal L-flange?
I.e., don't use short 5" flanges step by step alternating w the shingle placement. Just use a long
metal wide L-flange under all of the starter strip and shingles?
Less joints on the flange means less chance of leakage.
What do ya dink?
Can u do the experiment w above, using a garden hose?
It has proven - not to work in most cases. Shinglling is a method that's been in play for hundreds, if not thousands of years. It is to lay or arrange so as to overlap, the one before. In step flashing, it's what keeps the water on top of the roofing material. Shingling!
Hope this helps!
Thanks
This will solve a problem that builder missed and second roofers failed to notice too. Ive got to drive from texas to geogia to repair my daughters house because the "pros" couldnt get right twice. Yep Daddy's gotta fix it
Thanks for tip
M L Rogers Pasadena, TX
From the Great Northwest public Duck Blind well I gotta tell you you would leak here in the Northwest no matter how you're going to do that if it's ice and water at the first course should be must go up the wall 4in come all the way across the deck on top of that we put another synthetic give this good lines for straightness now the first one will get a kick out shingle to kick water out away from the wall and into the gutter here in the Northwest we use 8x8 step shingles shingles per course 4 inches up the wall and 4in on the deck each course must come right down to the Salvage line back pain metal must be 3in outside corners cut one inch down and folded over never Square to the Box always kick water out this gentleman does have it right about the basics if you don't learn the basics of roofing you shouldn't be up there go back three generations and watch somebody roof think about how far the asphalt shingle has as come in history here in the Northwest where it rains a lot we are put to the test you continue to leak you are not the roofer for us God bless from the northwest where it rains
This is all roofing 101. Anyone who doesn’t know this stuff should not touch a roof.
It would seem so, yes! But, the mass majority of those doing roofing in Texas - reject this as nonsense. Getting a few to do the job well, is an accomplishment we take pride in. Thanks for your comment, I do agree!
I learned something useful today. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
That’s why u sit the l metal on roof cement that way no water can get underneath it’s not that complicated
Interesting, sorry the video did not address this mistake better. As time passes, the mastic hardens, (especially in Texas) and the metal one-piece flashing continues to expand and contract. Then, the mastic having lost elasticity breaks loose, and leaks. Alway leaks.
I hope this helps!
Thank you. Very good video. Yes; Don't create dams. let the water flow.
Can tell you know your stuff
great hands on approach looks like you did this a couple of times old school!!!! thanks.
I think I heard you don't like a single piece of flashing? Exactly why isn't clear. You seem to claim/imply that water flows under the flashing, but don't worry about why water is under the flashing..... I am actually bothered by what I think I heard but can't really define your complaint. Lets start at the beginning and cover some important issues 1) What goes first, order of construction is important here because you have multiple trades ( carpenter builds deck, fascia guy sides wall, roofer shingles), 2) primary problem #1 its joint of dis-similars under water flow (wall vs deck, fascia verses shingle), and 3) water sources. Ideally I would prefer the flashing installer be after the carpenter and step flash the joint with asphalt pokey ( actual name "asphalt mastic" or his peel & stick) raw wall to raw deck, often I can't control that. Once the fascia is installed I am kind of screwed. Now the dis-similars usually means cracks and thus the flashing. and water sources which are huge in your demo. Particularly windows which weren't even mentioned. That joints primary water source is the wall, a windward wall collects all the rain and flows it down that wall and across that join over the cracked joint. The step flashing is advantaged in that it transfers the water to the top of the next flashing. Was that your point? I am concerned as you show new flashing interlaced with shingles BUT really big BUT where is the vertical end of that flashing going? Best answer is under the fascia, so who is removing and reinstalling that fascia? If you install the flashing outside the fascia you create a wall problem with water running down the wall being on the wrong side of the new flashing. Simple point is proper flashing can only be done in the original install.
I'm sorry - this video must not be as clear as I hoped. Your comment that I don't like a single piece of flashing - is way off base. Watch again, and listen to the whole video - you will see and hear me explain using proper step flashing, a very important step, the idea is to not shortcut, do not leave out proper flashing, or substitute for things that do not work long term. No matter who installed the flashing, I recommend NOT to use poorly installed flashing, fix the flashing by doing it right. It's the only way to get a lasting roof. Thanks for watching, I hope this is helpful. GW
thank you sir.. Normandy Homes i own has this and causing leak.. Really Really tell folks around to be careful with NOrmandy in dallas..
Get to the point.
I am getting ready to replace siding on a wall that meets a roof. Is there any way to properly flash it without pulling up shingles?
What if you're using self stick roll roofing?
Thanks for the question. There is no advantage to using a self-adhered at this sidewall location if you plan to use the roofing to keep water out. Roofing as a rain screen is not the best application for roofing and running a piece of self-adhered along the wall does little to keep long-term leaks from happening.
I 2nd that! \/ ⬇⬇⬇ \/
It's always important to know where to put and where to not put your caulk.
I am wondering about the adhesive on the shingles. Wouldn't the shingle adhesive block the water from getting out?
And I see other roofers extend the step flashing further down to where the edge of the top shingle will land. In that case it seems like the shingle would stick tight to the flashing, again blocking the water perhaps even more. If that is the case the water would run horizontally across the lower shingle. Is this what happens? Is it not an issue? Thanks.
CEFGNO thanks for the comment/question. We have in the past shown this with a clear decking (no felt), on how it works, (compared to alternate methods), but it's like the shingles, it's a shingle process. Consider the field shingles that also have adhesive. Answer: No, it's not an issue and hasn't been since the beginning of asphalt shingles. It's the tried and proven best method under nearly all conditions.
Best wishes to you, and thanks again for the question.
I having a roof replaced thank you for the professional video info JOE.
Great explanation, doing it your way
i gonna use your way to do it make sense
With existing siding in place, how do you install flashing and underlayment in place as you show in the video?
Simon, a great question. Lost is the art of renovation, set aside by simple replacement, ignoring the fact, that the job is half done. Renovation is about restoring to its original, or possibly better than the original state or condition. If short-cuts were taken originally, it will require digging into the siding, stucco, or if masonry, step flashing counter-flashing can be added by tuck-pointing. I hope this helps!
How would I continue this to a peak and down the other side like for a portico. Cutting the flashing on the peak thank you
That's a good question, the best way is to have a piece made to fit the ridge, a cap made to pitch. This is done by sheet metal shops/workers who solder this into a single cap.
The BEST advice out there!
your using galvanized steel flashing? thats totally superfluous, tin step flashing is for sure going to last longer than your shingles. and your gunna replace the flashing anyways when you need a new roof
Superfluous, a big word for me, please clarify. Let's start with an understanding of the difference in tin and galvanized steel? Do they perform the same? Thanks for your comment, I look forward to your reply and additional comment. GW
@@Austinroofingcontractors i just meant that steel is excessive. tin or aluminum is cheaper and and will still outlive your shingles. i dont think steel would be any better because youre supposed to replace the flashing when you get new shingles anyway. you could, however, make an arguement for using steel on the chimney, since you know there will for sure be ice/snow building up on it in the winter. plus theres no getting around caulking the chimney, so if you wanna shell out on flashing, do it at the chimney (you shouldnt need to though).
@@Austinroofingcontractors btw thanks for replying 2 years later. its good to see you are still active on here
I love the video , but , but please .. run the underfelt up the siding .. So that if any water that manages gets itself under any top roofing that is fitted .. like you firstly show .. has a way of allowing itself off the roof , either by the top layer or by the under layer ..Then that has to be the best course of action !! I have had to get myself on many a roof .. that SO CALLED ROOFERS haven't run the under felt up underneath or alongside a chimney or even a roof window that has had a water problem ..So please make sure the underfelt has at least gone up the siding at least 50 -75mm or for usa guys 2"- 3" ..So if there is still a problem...Then it's an issue from above.. If there is a leak ..Then its a different issue , from what you are doing , but let people know what may be an issue from the past is a previous one ... But a fresh install , if you know what needs to be done , seldom becomes an issue !!! Like Gary says .. IF YOU KNOW WHAT OTHERS DONT KNOW .. Then you become a better fitter !!
Excellent, common sense! This was a fantastic explanation for us homeowners trying to learn the RIGHT way to do something.
Don’t you want to only fasten the step flashing with the shingle nails (rather than nailing the flashing individually, under the shingle to follow)?
The Phoenix Contractor's Coach I think that (my “suggestion”/question) is recommended by some because (a) the nail is more likely to back out if it is only going through the flashing and (b) the hole, itself, is vulnerable as it’s not “sealed” the way a hole is when a nail penetrates the asphalt shingle. But, I’m in commercial/single ply roofing; I haven’t investigated what we’re talking about- perhaps the way demonstrated in the video is perfectly fine. Thanks for the response and for uploading the videos.
Kyle, you are obviously a terrific roofer. The depth of your question shows that. In some cases, you could be right, especially ice and snow build up, but, keep in mind, once the nail penetrates the flashing shingle, it goes into the asphalt shingle, where like all the other nails on the roof, it seals itself with asphalt. In 45 years, I've never seen one like this leek, even in Boulder CO, but, to push my thinking forward, I would be interested in you thoughts on the above! GW
I’ve been watching a lot of videos and I saw one that instructed to nail step flash to wall 2 times instead of nailing into roof. Then place shingle over top and nail across shingle but stopping short of where flashing is underneath shingle. Then one nail above where flashing sits under. Hopefully I explained it clearly. I tried my best. I’m curious as to your opinion on this method. I’m going to try and shingle a roof with a dormer on my workshop I’ve built. Great video BTW. 👍
What kind of a gap can we expect at the top/ last flash and how do you waterproof that?
Good Question! I should have covered that, but, there should be no gap left. An end flashing, that may turn in 90 degrees, soldered corner or out, depending on the build. No gaps! Thanks for bringing that missing piece to my attention. GW
What is your recommendation for a house that has the siding installed already. I have cedar wood siding. I need a new roof. And all the roofers want to just push the ice/water shield under the existing flashings.
Your roofing company should pull the siding off to install new flashing correctly. Hopefully it’s a lap siding not a board and batten so only a couple of courses will need removal. The way your roofers are suggesting is a gamble.
ProBuilt Construction
Caldwell, TX
Have been getting quotes here in Virginia and none of the roofers are willing to remove my cedar siding. They just wanna tuck under. So I am going to remove the siding myself and replace it after the roof is finished.
Best way to get cedar siding off is to use a Dewalt drill set. Have a small cap from an one quart oil bottle and put a little bit of Dexron trans fluid to dip your drill bit in frequently. Start with a 1/8” bit and work up to a 3/16” bit. Then after removing your siding use vice grips to get your nail remains out. Be careful and you can get all your cedar siding off without destroying it. When you put your cedar siding back on use #9x3” ceramic coated deck screws. Where we are around La Grange, TX cedar is astronomically expensive.
If I have a brick wall in place, do you cut the step flashing into the brick?
Here's a video that could help, ( ua-cam.com/video/wTApl3kbO8k/v-deo.html ) and yes, if you have brick, cut the brick or joints to install flashing with a turnback on it. It's not as good as a though-wall flashing, but if you install with masonry cement, avoid caulk, then seal the brick, you typically can make it work well. Best of luck and thanks for watching!
You have to install a 2 piece flashing . Flashing is attached to roof deck and extends up brick at least 4 inches I like 5 or 6 and do not attach to brick . Then a second piece of flashing is cut into the brick and comes down over the first fashing and is trimmed about a half inch off deck . The 2 pieces of flashing are never attached to each other
Excellent explanation sir!
Glad it was helpful!
Do you recommend step flashing on rolled roofing?
We use step flashing in any type of shingle application, composition shingles, wood shingles, occasionally tile, because it lays up like shingles, 12" or so at a time, slate and so on. Most roll roofing will need to adhere to a solid piece of continuous flashing.
@@Austinroofingcontractors You are a breath of fresh air sir!! Ive been roofing since I was 17 and have been doing my own work for 3 years now. I've never advertised myself at all and have no problem getting work from referrals! Quality has taken me a far way in this industry because simple craftsmanship is forgotten these days to save 2 man hours!
@@roofinggod1540 Thanks for your comment.
Please explain how you attach that to a concrete wall.
Good question, what do you mean concrete wall? Concrete block or brick, stucco, or actual concrete? I would love to see a photo! gw@exteriorsbygarywhillock.com
Concrete nails on the side of the stepflash that's attached to the wall.
I hate water damaging all around the edges of the roof ! You have some pointers for that ! I seen roofer slap some Henry’s on the plywood about 10 inches for that reason!
For a townhouse, what needs to be done differently?
I will need more information, can you email pictures where the problem exists? gw@ExteriorsbyGaryWhillock.com
Nothing, a roof is a roof
Man I would pay cash money for you to come to KY . This place is a doggone goat rope out here...