Very nice to see a professional doing his thing. It’s too bad that not all roofers care enough about their work to provide this level of professionalism.
Total respect!!! I am super impressed with the craftsmanship and the maturity of the man doing the work. He knows what he's doing and if he makes a mistake he handles it like a grown-up!!! He goes back and makes his corrections and does a perfect job with true professionalism!!!
First lesson taught to an old dude, by an even older dude, when l first picked up a wood saw and a tape measure - "Measure Twice; Cut Once". 👍 A great instructional video, I sent it on to my Father, the retired master plumber, who was being asked to come and do roof flashing in his seventies because 'these young blokes don't know what they are doing'. Doing my own extensions and renovations at the moment and Dad is still always dropping in with plenty of advice (same advice, different days) 😀.
Thanks for a great video. This is the best I've seen! I had a question of how you decided on 10 1/2" up off the roof to snap your line? I have a 4/12 roof so mine will be different, but I didn't hear how 10 1/2" worked for your pitch. Thanks.
Best video I’ve looked at so far, I’m reroofing the house in a few weeks and the counter flash and step flash are the only question area I have. Appreciate the efforts for making the video
@@restorationreferralsystem9728 It took me a while to figure that one out, great retort! 👍 My Dad loved the mobile sheet metal folder in your truck, "Wish l had those in my day" is another one of his favourite laments. He told me back in the day, when silicone was science fiction, he used a strip of lead and hammered that into the gap in the mortar to hold the flashing in place. He is still amazed that the US is using malphoid (bitumen) roofing, says that is as obsolete as three speed crash gearboxes. Do millennials know how to double shuffle?
@@restorationreferralsystem9728 when I went to a private builders school learn this stuff, they were teaching us how to cut aluminimum and it was pretty good stuff, I DID NOT KNOW YOU COULD DO IT WITH THIS MATERIAL...
Very nice, towards the end of the video you said you push the back in tight but the front is off the brick like a qrter inch..... couldn't wind driven rain get in there?
Nice job guy! 2 refinement tips from 40 yrs in the business… 1. Always “tool” the sealant. 2. End the counter flashing 1” up off the step flashing so a future roofer 20yr from now can replace the roof without bending up your work! It will live again! Peace!
Honestly, neither of those apply in a culture where shingles and flashing are being replaced every 10-15 years. The flashing only needs to last until the next roof. Tooling caulking still does apply a bit tho haha.
Quality...ARE YOU SERIOUS?...Idiot has NO idea....water will penetrate the outer leaf and access the cavity thereby bypassing the so called flashing....MORONIC
A mason told me that you should never use caulk to seal flashing because the caulk traps moisture within the brick. Within time, the brick will crumble away with the freeze and thaw cycle. He said to use hydraulic cement because it allows the the brick to breathe and not trap moisture.
If it was a permanent roof, I completely agree. I have seen mortar joints that will need "rebuilt" because they have been cut and caulked so many times. It is currently unrealistic, imo, to adopt that level of craftsmanship to our current line up of roof installers but a brother can dream.
You're doing an excellent job. If I had to get something like this done, I would hire you as you take care and interest in doing it right. There is a big difference between doing it "quick" and doing it "efficiently".
My Roofing Company would always cut a kerf into the brick or rock work and install an upper counterflashing with a reglet to seal the counterflashing to the brick or rock. Takes some skill and some time but it is a permanent repair.
How would you do this if the sidewall was not brick but STUCCO instead? I have never seen an elegant solution to stucco sidewalls... any videos on this?
Actually did a very nice job. I don't see that much on UA-cam. Most of the "roofers" I see on UA-cam wouldn't last a day on one of my jobs. That light of metal I'd think about seaming the bottom edge to stiffen it up. I much prefer 24 gauge. But, you aren't going to bend that with a siding brake. Being old, I'll always mortar ,or lead those joints. Although I doubt you have ever seen a roll of lead. LOL Oh, bring your tape straight out a foot from the deck, or grab a one foot level. Measure down form the end. That is your pitch. :) All in all a very nice job !
Very interesting to see how u guys do it across The pond. So different to how we do it but theory is same in many ways i guess. We have a little trouble in understanding how u guys cope with using imperial measurements as opposed to metric bit horses for courses I guess We use lead flashings on our abutments and in all my 35 years of roofing I’ve never even seen a shingle, felt of cedar. Metal roofing is only really used on industrial type buildings here. All said and done. It’s a fine video and utmost respect friend.
Thanks for the pitch factor info. The reglet is actually the cut your making in the wall and the extra bend that you put you're 5/1 tool against to knock in is called a spring clip. Regards
looks nice, clean and professional. Two suggestions for you. 1) reduce the riglet length; so as, it recesses into riglet joint by 3/16" to 1/4". The riglet has two functions, pressure and waterstop. With the riglet even to the outside plane of the brick, any upper end caulk failure will allow that water to ride and go behind the riglet. Thus, this allows water to wick into the brick as well as flow behind all flashing. 2) Caulk vertically prior to counter metal installation, this assures that any water pushing behind your vertical line will not find its' way to the vulnerable spot. Good to see young professionals coming up in the trade, keep growing and learning the trade!
I've done a lot of custom bending in the late 80's early 90's. This job is about as good as it gets as far as appearance & efficiency. I too was self taught.
They make double thickness diamond blades for raking out reglets. There's also a shroud available for an angle grinder that you can attach to a shop vac to suck a lot of the dust away so it's not all over the place blocking your vision.
If I was doing this everyday I bet that vac would be a game changer! I have also since learned that stacking two regular blades is a sweet spot thickness.
This is immensely helpful. Trying to help my mom who has a similar situation where a gable is butting against a brick wall and there are leaks along that connection. This is exactly the type of knowledge I've been searching for and no one outside of your video seems to show how to make these sorts of flashing repairs on existing walls! Everything is new construction, it seems. Are you simply relying on gravity and that one line of caulk to hold the flashing in place? It seems like high winds could get behind those flashing strips and pull them away from the brick wall...
I 99.9 % use blue chalk 50 million is a sacred number used by craftsmen the world over Great video, I always appreciated the “why” to what I was being instructed to do .
Always good to see how our friends do over the pond Uk. I’m interested to know how long before the cut edges start to corrode or maybe they never do. We use lead in the uk
I have a very unique house im about to roof, a low slop roof Barn style, nearly flat roof, The eve lands on the flat roof which extends with a dormer window and racks on the sides. im lost for as how to flash it properly. Any chance I can send you some pictures to ask your advise?
Hem the hypotenuses and verticals, makes for a much sturdier, easier and safer to handle, and better looking end product. Not that this looks bad or anything, but leaving cut edges of .018 coilstock can get super dicey and oil can-ey looking if one iota of daylight shines on it and the bricks are even a little bit catawampus. I would recommend two things: at least a bead of waterstop or something behind them verticals(damn man, they naked), and perhaps a rivet(or zip screw if you're slummin' it) fastening the individual counters together. Not in the step flashing, though! Counters can comingle, fasten through both though and you best get to steppin'.
Wearing a harness on the roof but then walking up and down the ladder in the most dangerous fashion...holding object in one hand and releasing the other hand from the ladder grabbing each rung lol run your hand up the backside of the ladder and never release unless stationary when passing the gutter line
Great technique! I have this "conversation" with so many people where I live. Many houses over 100 years old. All chimneys are just tarred every couple years 🤦🏼
I specify lead wedges to secure the counter flashing in the masonry joints. Just a straight 90 into the joint. This way you can repoint the joints with mortar.
I guess the old measure twice cut once comes back into play. Or assumptions are the mother of all FUs. You are right, it's life... Because it's only when we get old and it hurts too much to fix mistakes that we actually stop making them
The way the brick is laid lends itself to that, it looks better than diagonal cutting the brick. If you were doing an irregular stone or stucco you may have to do 1 piece
Most roofers in Ontario do not use metal flashing, they just use some sort a plastic that sits against the brickwork, and just seal the top open edge. This eventually dries out, and starts leaking. I am speaking from experience on this. Lucky for me my flashing was in a straight line, so I removed all the morter, had a galvanized flashing made , pushed the top angle flange into the gap between the bricks, and repointed the brickwork.
Great work! I'm curious to what gauge that metal is? Also, when I counter flash, I like to leave my counter flashing up 1 1/2 in to 2 in , so that next time we roof it we can slip the step flashings out and in without disturbing the counterflashing. Lots of these details don't take serviceability into consideration.
Thanks for the video! Already using it to teach a rooky.
Check out The Millenial Roofers UA-cam for more great content like this.
If you double up the diamond blades you get a perfect uniform groove.
I've since adopted that method. Works wonders
Very nice to see a professional doing his thing. It’s too bad that not all roofers care enough about their work to provide this level of professionalism.
Absolutely agreed.
Appreciate it! I always try my best.
@@MASTROOFING Thanks!
Total respect!!! I am super impressed with the craftsmanship and the maturity of the man doing the work. He knows what he's doing and if he makes a mistake he handles it like a grown-up!!! He goes back and makes his corrections and does a perfect job with true professionalism!!!
“Like a grown up” he literally is one. You must really think low of “millennials” .. makes the real guys who work life’s harder 🤦♂️
Appreciate it, thanks!
@@bigthunder7002 😂😂
First lesson taught to an old dude, by an even older dude, when l first picked up a wood saw and a tape measure - "Measure Twice; Cut Once". 👍 A great instructional video, I sent it on to my Father, the retired master plumber, who was being asked to come and do roof flashing in his seventies because 'these young blokes don't know what they are doing'. Doing my own extensions and renovations at the moment and Dad is still always dropping in with plenty of advice (same advice, different days) 😀.
I always love picking the brains of people who have been around longer than I have been alive.
I like the way you checked and found a mistake, made changes, corrected and kept working.
The only way to work! Thanks
great job... thank you
BEAUTIFUL JOB, GREAT TO SEE CRAFTSMAN...
You are a master at this... Very symmetrical..Bravo!!!!
Thanks for a great video. This is the best I've seen! I had a question of how you decided on 10 1/2" up off the roof to snap your line? I have a 4/12 roof so mine will be different, but I didn't hear how 10 1/2" worked for your pitch. Thanks.
Best video I’ve looked at so far, I’m reroofing the house in a few weeks and the counter flash and step flash are the only question area I have. Appreciate the efforts for making the video
Perfect video for an 8th grade class that keeps asking, "when will we ever use this math?" Thanks.
They done learn today!!!
I always loved math in school and learning how to use it to make my real life easier has been fun to see. For sure!
The reglet is the cut in the brick. The hem is the bend of the metal.
Excellent Video, Phillip! Thanks For Making This Video. This Will Help Me Out--A Whole Bunch. Continued Success.
Great to hear! Thanks for letting me know. I have some other videos on my channel that you might like as well.
Awesome work!!!! Thanks for sharing!
It's a good tradesman that fixes his mistakes great video lad👍
Appreciate it, thank you!
You like doing good work and a man with pride will always have a job because people like GOOD LOOKING work , keep it Brother"
I agree, thanks
Making wriglets on the counter flashing! Good job Bluebird Roofing carpenter!
Bluebird really cared about doing the job right. Much respect.
Great job an area that is so critical with a permanent result. Very good presentation.
Good job
hey, this was really well demonstrated. thanks for the video.
Nice seeing a fellow roofer doing nice clean work. Good in you man looks great
Thanks!
Nice job... thanks for sharing
Very well done.....nice job
Great video content. Spot on in your instructions!
Great video content, very easy to follow.
Great work, thanks I learnt something.
Phenomenal! Nice work
like your vids. not only are they most helpful , you are also a nice guy. not some ass full of themselves
I love that you showed the botched 1st piece. nobody is perfect. Great video
Me too. I agree
That looks fantastic! Great work!
Man you guys have it hard with the imperial system. Beautifully executed work…love the mobile pan break attached to your car
There are only two types of countries. Those who use the metric system and those who have landed on the moon.
@@restorationreferralsystem9728 except for Liberia and Myanmar
@@restorationreferralsystem9728 It took me a while to figure that one out, great retort! 👍 My Dad loved the mobile sheet metal folder in your truck, "Wish l had those in my day" is another one of his favourite laments. He told me back in the day, when silicone was science fiction, he used a strip of lead and hammered that into the gap in the mortar to hold the flashing in place. He is still amazed that the US is using malphoid (bitumen) roofing, says that is as obsolete as three speed crash gearboxes. Do millennials know how to double shuffle?
@@restorationreferralsystem9728 Ha Ha and your job gives you the perfect place to see the moon 😁
@@restorationreferralsystem9728 when I went to a private builders school learn this stuff, they were teaching us how to cut aluminimum and it was pretty good stuff, I DID NOT KNOW YOU COULD DO IT WITH THIS MATERIAL...
Between artist and craftsman you find the artisan - that's you.
Strong work !
Thats some beautiful work. I really appreciate the fine craftsmanship.
Very nice, towards the end of the video you said you push the back in tight but the front is off the brick like a qrter inch..... couldn't wind driven rain get in there?
Nice job guy!
2 refinement tips from 40 yrs in the business… 1. Always “tool” the sealant. 2. End the counter flashing 1” up off the step flashing so a future roofer 20yr from now can replace the roof without bending up your work!
It will live again!
Peace!
Valuable tips of the trade.👍
Honestly, neither of those apply in a culture where shingles and flashing are being replaced every 10-15 years. The flashing only needs to last until the next roof. Tooling caulking still does apply a bit tho haha.
Great stuff thanks for sharing!!!
Quality work
Thanks!
Well done. Quality work.
Quality...ARE YOU SERIOUS?...Idiot has NO idea....water will penetrate the outer leaf and access the cavity thereby bypassing the so called flashing....MORONIC
A mason told me that you should never use caulk to seal flashing because the caulk traps moisture within the brick. Within time, the brick will crumble away with the freeze and thaw cycle. He said to use hydraulic cement because it allows the the brick to breathe and not trap moisture.
If it was a permanent roof, I completely agree. I have seen mortar joints that will need "rebuilt" because they have been cut and caulked so many times. It is currently unrealistic, imo, to adopt that level of craftsmanship to our current line up of roof installers but a brother can dream.
Awesome job ! Looks incredible!
Great skills 👌 GOOD JOB
Respect you do not only look professional but you act like it as well
I try
Finally someone who knows how to properly flash a chimney! Great video!
Nope.
Thanks! Always trying my best.
You're doing an excellent job. If I had to get something like this done, I would hire you as you take care and interest in doing it right. There is a big difference between doing it "quick" and doing it "efficiently".
Great job brother nice detail
nice work brother!
great work and excellent video. happy new year to you and the family.
A TRUE CRAFTSMAN , WELL DONE. IT IS GREAT TO FINALLY SEE A MILLENNIAL WHO ACTUALLY TRIES TO DO A GOOD JOB
There’s many of us and unfortunately a lot of work people will give to illegals or older “professionals” ..
There are more of us than you would think. Leading the charge for better buildings! Thanks.
@@bigthunder7002 We just got to find our place in the mix! Hang in there.
My Roofing Company would always cut a kerf into the brick or rock work and install an upper counterflashing with a reglet to seal the counterflashing to the brick or rock. Takes some skill and some time but it is a permanent repair.
Love it!
Not too shabby
Good job man
great workmanship
Good video bro👏👏👏
Thanks!
How would you do this if the sidewall was not brick but STUCCO instead? I have never seen an elegant solution to stucco sidewalls... any videos on this?
Real concrete stucco would get continuous flashing installed into a cut, imo.
I appreciate the skill, and I am not a roofer. Good video.
Nice guard on the 4” grinder with a 6 “ blade
Wtf are you worried about Nancy stay on the ground
he's chillin i use a 9 on my 13amp corded grinder with no guard
Actually did a very nice job. I don't see that much on UA-cam. Most of the "roofers" I see on UA-cam wouldn't last a day on one of my jobs. That light of metal I'd think about seaming the bottom edge to stiffen it up. I much prefer 24 gauge. But, you aren't going to bend that with a siding brake. Being old, I'll always mortar ,or lead those joints. Although I doubt you have ever seen a roll of lead. LOL
Oh, bring your tape straight out a foot from the deck, or grab a one foot level. Measure down form the end. That is your pitch. :) All in all a very nice job !
Nice job
Very interesting to see how u guys do it across
The pond. So different to how we do it but theory is same in many ways i guess. We have a little trouble in understanding how u guys cope with using imperial measurements as opposed to metric bit horses for courses I guess We use lead flashings on our abutments and in all my 35 years of roofing I’ve never even seen a shingle, felt of cedar. Metal roofing is only really used on industrial type buildings here. All said and done. It’s a fine video and utmost respect friend.
Great job brother
Love your work you take pride them days are gone many contractors don’t care get the money and run so sad keep up the good work you will be proud ❤
Thanks for the pitch factor info. The reglet is actually the cut your making in the wall and the extra bend that you put you're 5/1 tool against to knock in is called a spring clip. Regards
I agree, thanks. I do believe in trying to label things consistently so that everyone can speak the "same language". 👍👍👌👌
very well done
I would wear glove as that sheet metal is super sharp !
We have many benders over here in Manchester UK
looks nice, clean and professional. Two suggestions for you. 1) reduce the riglet length; so as, it recesses into riglet joint by 3/16" to 1/4". The riglet has two functions, pressure and waterstop. With the riglet even to the outside plane of the brick, any upper end caulk failure will allow that water to ride and go behind the riglet. Thus, this allows water to wick into the brick as well as flow behind all flashing. 2) Caulk vertically prior to counter metal installation, this assures that any water pushing behind your vertical line will not find its' way to the vulnerable spot. Good to see young professionals coming up in the trade, keep growing and learning the trade!
Great points. Thanks!
i thought he did a shitty job too...prolly only been doing it 3-5 years
Good stuff bruh
I've done a lot of custom bending in the late 80's early 90's. This job is about as good as it gets as far as appearance & efficiency. I too was self taught.
They make double thickness diamond blades for raking out reglets. There's also a shroud available for an angle grinder that you can attach to a shop vac to suck a lot of the dust away so it's not all over the place blocking your vision.
If I was doing this everyday I bet that vac would be a game changer! I have also since learned that stacking two regular blades is a sweet spot thickness.
Well done!
Great video, Thanks 😊
This is immensely helpful. Trying to help my mom who has a similar situation where a gable is butting against a brick wall and there are leaks along that connection. This is exactly the type of knowledge I've been searching for and no one outside of your video seems to show how to make these sorts of flashing repairs on existing walls! Everything is new construction, it seems. Are you simply relying on gravity and that one line of caulk to hold the flashing in place? It seems like high winds could get behind those flashing strips and pull them away from the brick wall...
I 99.9 % use blue chalk
50 million is a sacred number used by craftsmen the world over
Great video, I always appreciated the “why” to what I was being instructed to do .
You got me good 😄🤣
I would like to hire this guy to do my chimney flashing - he cares about doing a good job.
Always good to see how our friends do over the pond Uk. I’m interested to know how long before the cut edges start to corrode or maybe they never do. We use lead in the uk
Dude word of advice put a guard on that grinder only a matter of time
Guards come off for sure
Guard doesnt allow proper depth for a hanger flashing
Finger was very close to blade for my liking 🙈 ps time served bricklayer and tool savvy
@@tomorainns145 not true
@@TheDaddio39 in australia its true cause i have to do it to make it work
I have a very unique house im about to roof, a low slop roof Barn style, nearly flat roof, The eve lands on the flat roof which extends with a dormer window and racks on the sides. im lost for as how to flash it properly. Any chance I can send you some pictures to ask your advise?
Was surprised when he said it was 6-12 because it looked more like a 7 or 8
Nice to see the newer generation focusing on building trades.
I have loved building things ever since I was kid!
Hem the hypotenuses and verticals, makes for a much sturdier, easier and safer to handle, and better looking end product. Not that this looks bad or anything, but leaving cut edges of .018 coilstock can get super dicey and oil can-ey looking if one iota of daylight shines on it and the bricks are even a little bit catawampus. I would recommend two things: at least a bead of waterstop or something behind them verticals(damn man, they naked), and perhaps a rivet(or zip screw if you're slummin' it) fastening the individual counters together. Not in the step flashing, though! Counters can comingle, fasten through both though and you best get to steppin'.
Wind will catch the open edge and rip the job to pieces. Verticals need to be siliconed.
@@jimosullivan1389 They will also slowly begin to gather debris over time, another bad thing to have in your chimney flashings.
Wearing a harness on the roof but then walking up and down the ladder in the most dangerous fashion...holding object in one hand and releasing the other hand from the ladder grabbing each rung lol run your hand up the backside of the ladder and never release unless stationary when passing the gutter line
the finish flashing can be done in 1 piece so is can but this is good enough none the less
It can, but means cutting across the brick and not the mortar joint. Many see that as a no no others do not.
Great technique! I have this "conversation" with so many people where I live. Many houses over 100 years old. All chimneys are just tarred every couple years 🤦🏼
Nice ❤
Great video Phil!
impressive
I specify lead wedges to secure the counter flashing in the masonry joints. Just a straight 90 into the joint. This way you can repoint the joints with mortar.
I guess the old measure twice cut once comes back into play. Or assumptions are the mother of all FUs.
You are right, it's life... Because it's only when we get old and it hurts too much to fix mistakes that we actually stop making them
Question
What would you do if it was bedford stone, which are all different sizes. Would each piece be different or do the diagnol cut?
Just wondering
Always use blue if possible. The ingredients of red can prematurely rust metal if left exposed/ in contact
i know some people that should watch this
Top notch
Good work looks nice but just curious why you step flash your counter instead of a whole piece ??
The way the brick is laid lends itself to that, it looks better than diagonal cutting the brick.
If you were doing an irregular stone or stucco you may have to do 1 piece
Nice
Great job thanks for sharing. You can teach an old dog new tricks 😂
Great job brotha you don't fck around lol
Most roofers in Ontario do not use metal flashing, they just use some sort a plastic that sits against the brickwork, and just seal the top open edge. This eventually dries out, and starts leaking. I am speaking from experience on this. Lucky for me my flashing was in a straight line, so I removed all the morter, had a galvanized flashing made , pushed the top angle flange into the gap between the bricks, and repointed the brickwork.
Not a roofer here, just learning. How come no caulking was used vertically? During a storm, wouldn’t water get in that gap? Thanks.
Great work! I'm curious to what gauge that metal is? Also, when I counter flash, I like to leave my counter flashing up 1 1/2 in to 2 in , so that next time we roof it we can slip the step flashings out and in without disturbing the counterflashing. Lots of these details don't take serviceability into consideration.