Something I think worth mentioning is that the fastest bias setting is NOT always the setting where the car handles the best. With bias it is always a trade off between braking efficiency, braking stability, and turn-in behavior. Sometimes, for example, the setting which slows the car down the most efficiently begins to transfer enough weight to unload the rear wheels enough to induce slight lockup. Moving the bias farther forward in this case may prevent the rears from locking, but may also lengthen the braking zone by 5-10m due to the lost braking efficiency. It is also important to note that lockups or loss of grip under braking are sometimes indicative of a greater setup problem outside of the bias setting you are running. If, for example, you are experiencing rear locking at 70% bias, then clearly you should take a look at tweaking suspension settings and balance instead. It is also important to note that the way the driver applies and releases the brake could be causing lockups or turn in understeer, even if the bias is already at its optimal setting. Telemetry data can help a lot with this. For example, sometimes front lockup can be caused by too weak of an initial hit which is preventing the weight transfer necessary to maintain the grip levels being asked for by the front tires. I have especially noticed this when driving in the rain. I will often start to move the bias rearward at the start of a session to avoid front locking. As I start to push the braking zones deeper and deeper & hit higher brake pressures, more weight will be transferred to the fronts allowing me to adjust the bias further forward, which further increases my braking efficiency, which transfers even more weight to the fronts, and allows me to go even more to the front with the bias until I eventually start losing efficiency or start getting rear lockups and have to walk it back. Setting an optimal brake balance setting is all about finding the best compromise between efficiency in slowing the car and maintaining favorable handling characteristics. I feel like most people forget about the first part there. They just worry about where the car is the most stable and turns in the way they want it to, and as a result, they end up throwing away tons of potential lap time by increasing all of their braking distances across a lap. TLDR: Finding the best bias is just as much about how efficiently you can slow the car as it is about lockups and handling. Sometimes a bias setting where the rear moves a bit or the turn in pushes can be faster overall.
Another Great vid Chris.. Cant say thank you ENOUGH this series of videos YOU DA MAN !!!!Thank you, Thank you, Thank you, Thank you, Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!!!
Great information Chris. This series is priceless for new sim racers. I have watched probably 100's of vids about sim racing over the past 8-10 months since I got back into sim racing and your vids are as good or better than any I'v watched about sim racing/sim racing car setup. Short, concise, to the point, and enjoyable to watch. A winning formula for YT vids.
Reasons to change brake bias: 1. Worn tyres: worn tires introduce instability and oversteer. Increase brake bias to help reduce the effect 2. Sharp turns: high brake bias will make it difficult to turn even in lower gears. Reduce brake bias before a sharp turn for extra rotation. However, be prepared to counter steer to keep the car on the track. 3. Managing tyres: Use an app to monitor tyre wear. If your rear tyres are worn out, increase bias to the front to manage rear tyre. If your front tyres are worn out, reduce bias to the back to manage front tyre.
Thank you so much for these fantastic videos, extremely informative and yet communicated in a way that makes it easy to understand! It is surprising how many racing games have little/no explanation on how to set up the car.
A useful and excellent video Chris, probably one of these easiest methods to help a beginner sim racer like me start to reduce laptimes, even if only a little.
Very good series of videos. One point though is that, while it might be true in AC that brake bias goes to over 70%, I'm pretty sure it's not true of ACC. I'm typically at 56% in the Ferrari in ACC..
Thanks for the informative video! But one question remains for me: 3:50 In which ACC Update did they add a shadow / "lightning brake" if you enlighten other cars? This looked amazing!
I don't have access to any analog means of acceleration and breaking, and one of the cars I'd like to try driving (The Ferrari 458 GT2 in AC) doesn't have any sort of ABS. Would it be a bad idea to reduce the break pressure so I don't constantly lock up and slide away at every corner?
Actually the understeering comes as you turn in and still try to hold the brakes(trailbraking). The front wheels have a limited amount of grip available and if your brake bias is too high your front wheels will use a too much of the grip available for braking which means that the tires cannot (fully) transmit the turning force to the ground anymore as there isn't enough grip available -> understeering. But you got a point though. Having your brake bias too high takes away a lot of weight from the rear tyres. So if you somehow manage to turn the car and not getting understeer you might get oversteer just a few moments later as the rear tyres have no grip due to the big weight transfer to the front. But normally that's just the case if your brake bias is very far from the optimum. Usually the issue with too much brake pressure on the front is understeering. I hope it's not too confusing and you get my point
Hans Mustermann This is a good explanation of why you might start to encounter understeer as bias moves forwards, but the weight transfer is actually not necessarily dependent on bias. The proportion of brake force going to the front vs rear tires has no effect on weight transfer, rather it is wherever the bias setting results in the most efficient braking (i.e. highest magnitude deceleration) that you may start to experience a loose rear end from weight transfer, which can be compounded by the brake force on the rear wheels leading to rear lockup. This is why I somewhat disagree with the "move it forwards until you start locking the fronts" strategy for finding & setting optimum bias. What you should be doing is searching for the bias setting which results in the most efficient braking, which sometimes comes hand in hand with some undesirable handling characteristics such as turn in understeer or rear locks, and THEN finding a compromise between the two. Sometimes a car is actually fastest when you're experiencing slight rear lockup.
I wish Assetto Corsa, iRacing, etc., had an option for automated brake balance-adjustment, i.e., the games would select the BB-figures for me automatically so that I would have one thing less to do myself while driving.
![Why you NEED to change Brake Bias [SIMRACING TUTORIAL]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/UK2sl0Po-1I/mqdefault.jpg)
![Sim Racing Setup Guide 02 - Tyres [Temperature, Pressure & Compound]](/img/n.gif)
Something I think worth mentioning is that the fastest bias setting is NOT always the setting where the car handles the best. With bias it is always a trade off between braking efficiency, braking stability, and turn-in behavior.
Sometimes, for example, the setting which slows the car down the most efficiently begins to transfer enough weight to unload the rear wheels enough to induce slight lockup. Moving the bias farther forward in this case may prevent the rears from locking, but may also lengthen the braking zone by 5-10m due to the lost braking efficiency.
It is also important to note that lockups or loss of grip under braking are sometimes indicative of a greater setup problem outside of the bias setting you are running. If, for example, you are experiencing rear locking at 70% bias, then clearly you should take a look at tweaking suspension settings and balance instead.
It is also important to note that the way the driver applies and releases the brake could be causing lockups or turn in understeer, even if the bias is already at its optimal setting. Telemetry data can help a lot with this. For example, sometimes front lockup can be caused by too weak of an initial hit which is preventing the weight transfer necessary to maintain the grip levels being asked for by the front tires. I have especially noticed this when driving in the rain. I will often start to move the bias rearward at the start of a session to avoid front locking. As I start to push the braking zones deeper and deeper & hit higher brake pressures, more weight will be transferred to the fronts allowing me to adjust the bias further forward, which further increases my braking efficiency, which transfers even more weight to the fronts, and allows me to go even more to the front with the bias until I eventually start losing efficiency or start getting rear lockups and have to walk it back.
Setting an optimal brake balance setting is all about finding the best compromise between efficiency in slowing the car and maintaining favorable handling characteristics. I feel like most people forget about the first part there. They just worry about where the car is the most stable and turns in the way they want it to, and as a result, they end up throwing away tons of potential lap time by increasing all of their braking distances across a lap.
TLDR: Finding the best bias is just as much about how efficiently you can slow the car as it is about lockups and handling. Sometimes a bias setting where the rear moves a bit or the turn in pushes can be faster overall.
Confirmed this guy is really good at making guides easy to understand .☺
Facts only💯
Another Great vid Chris.. Cant say thank you ENOUGH this series of videos YOU DA MAN !!!!Thank you, Thank you, Thank you, Thank you, Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!!!
Thanks Steve - glad you're finding the videos helpful.
@@ChrisHaye Helpful is not even the word !!!
Great information Chris. This series is priceless for new sim racers. I have watched probably 100's of vids about sim racing over the past 8-10 months since I got back into sim racing and your vids are as good or better than any I'v watched about sim racing/sim racing car setup. Short, concise, to the point, and enjoyable to watch. A winning formula for YT vids.
Tim datoolman couldn’t agree more 👍🏼
Reasons to change brake bias:
1. Worn tyres: worn tires introduce instability and oversteer. Increase brake bias to help reduce the effect
2. Sharp turns: high brake bias will make it difficult to turn even in lower gears. Reduce brake bias before a sharp turn for extra rotation. However, be prepared to counter steer to keep the car on the track.
3. Managing tyres: Use an app to monitor tyre wear. If your rear tyres are worn out, increase bias to the front to manage rear tyre. If your front tyres are worn out, reduce bias to the back to manage front tyre.
New to sim racing. These videos are super helpful! Thank you for making these!
Thank you so much for these fantastic videos, extremely informative and yet communicated in a way that makes it easy to understand! It is surprising how many racing games have little/no explanation on how to set up the car.
A useful and excellent video Chris, probably one of these easiest methods to help a beginner sim racer like me start to reduce laptimes, even if only a little.
This setup guide series is amazing. Thank you!
You da best, Chris.
Oh you! ;)
Very good series of videos. One point though is that, while it might be true in AC that brake bias goes to over 70%, I'm pretty sure it's not true of ACC. I'm typically at 56% in the Ferrari in ACC..
Thanks for the informative video!
But one question remains for me: 3:50 In which ACC Update did they add a shadow / "lightning brake" if you enlighten other cars? This looked amazing!
Awesome video. Liked and subbed!
Thanks The Budget Connoisseur
Thanks for making these vids
How has the physics in assetto corsa changed over the life of the game? Would be an interesting read/video
Another great video. Hey, were did you find the MB AMG C63 and other DTM cars? Never mind, found it on another one of your videos!
they are from urd
Thanks a lot mate!
Okayama is a perfect example of needing to adjust bias midlap to maximize performance.
Thanks♥️
I don't have access to any analog means of acceleration and breaking, and one of the cars I'd like to try driving (The Ferrari 458 GT2 in AC) doesn't have any sort of ABS. Would it be a bad idea to reduce the break pressure so I don't constantly lock up and slide away at every corner?
Brake my break !
Ahhh... did I make a typo somewhere?
Is wheel angular speed a good indicator to pinpoint the moment where you lock up?
What is the circuit in the first part here with the 60s Le Mans cars?
it's Riverside International Raceway
You're welcome
At 3:02 shouldn't it be turn in Oversteer. If forward biasing is there then rear will lose the grip first right?
Actually the understeering comes as you turn in and still try to hold the brakes(trailbraking). The front wheels have a limited amount of grip available and if your brake bias is too high your front wheels will use a too much of the grip available for braking which means that the tires cannot (fully) transmit the turning force to the ground anymore as there isn't enough grip available -> understeering. But you got a point though. Having your brake bias too high takes away a lot of weight from the rear tyres. So if you somehow manage to turn the car and not getting understeer you might get oversteer just a few moments later as the rear tyres have no grip due to the big weight transfer to the front. But normally that's just the case if your brake bias is very far from the optimum. Usually the issue with too much brake pressure on the front is understeering. I hope it's not too confusing and you get my point
Hans Mustermann This is a good explanation of why you might start to encounter understeer as bias moves forwards, but the weight transfer is actually not necessarily dependent on bias. The proportion of brake force going to the front vs rear tires has no effect on weight transfer, rather it is wherever the bias setting results in the most efficient braking (i.e. highest magnitude deceleration) that you may start to experience a loose rear end from weight transfer, which can be compounded by the brake force on the rear wheels leading to rear lockup. This is why I somewhat disagree with the "move it forwards until you start locking the fronts" strategy for finding & setting optimum bias. What you should be doing is searching for the bias setting which results in the most efficient braking, which sometimes comes hand in hand with some undesirable handling characteristics such as turn in understeer or rear locks, and THEN finding a compromise between the two. Sometimes a car is actually fastest when you're experiencing slight rear lockup.
How do i contact you mate, Want to show your videos in effect on my discord channel
I wish Assetto Corsa, iRacing, etc., had an option for automated brake balance-adjustment, i.e., the games would select the BB-figures for me automatically so that I would have one thing less to do myself while driving.
A good series but I think this one needs to be redone and go into more detail.
This isn't a guide, it's an explanation of what brake bias is.
2:26
Okay bye if it is not a good discussion
Oh give me a brake.
THanks a lottt for this CHris. You're the BEst!