Just to inform you guys, Race Anywhere have recently narrowed the range of items that are eligible for the 5% discount, now mainly applicable to Pro Sim Rig and Race Anywhere branded items (rig components). Sadly, this means the example shown in the video (5% off a simucube base) is no longer possible. It's a shame and I can see why it's no longer possible, but I have to let you know so you don't feel as if I'm misleading viewers and baiting people with a deal that can no longer be got. What third parties do with their discount programs is totally out of my hands and all I can do is inform you of the change. Thanks for your understanding...
What an awesome video. Love the background footage! This other video talks about when you’ll need to change brake bias in a bit more depth. Really good info when paired with this video. Why you NEED to change Brake Bias [SIMRACING TUTORIAL] ua-cam.com/video/UK2sl0Po-1I/v-deo.html
Additional point: Brake bias also affects tire temperature and therefore overall grip of that tire - more temperature means less grip. For T1 at spa for example you want a more forward bias to not heat up the rears to give you maximum grip for accelerating up the next long straight.
Thank you a lot! I did not notice it, but my brake bias on AC with the AMG GT3 EVO was standard on 71%. Now changing it between 52 and 54%. Laptime on Redbull Ring GP went from 1:32.80-1:34.00 to 1:30.00-1:30.90 on my first 15 laps, trying this out. The Lap record now is 1:29.792. Great video!
Oem cars are always heavily front biased and you generally want front bias anyway as your fronts will always have more grip on brakes so easier to lock the rears. I'm surprised anywhere near 5050 is drivable but I've never used iracing. But most cars in ac (and actually all other sims/games i play) I end up between 65-75 front usually.
Great coverage of the most important topic in racing. Here is another tip. During a long race for tracks like Spa or Fuji turn 1, where you have a heavy brake into a hairpin followed by a long straight where corner exit is so important and cars without TC like PCup or formula cars. Moving the Bias forward just for this turn to keep the rear tires cool can help you get better traction getting back on throttle. It is another tool for the tool box when solving problems on track during a race. Managing tire temps through Brake Bias is yet another dimension of choosing the best balance between safety, rotation during cornering and traction on exit.
Bits missed: 1) in sims that simulate rain, the more wet>the less grip>the less mass transfer - more rearwards/closer to 50/50 bias optimal 2) if one is to heat brakes with brake dragging during formation lap, as there is no mass transfer, again, move brake bias to rear to not overheat fronts/for more even heat up (NOT forgetting to move it back to normal prior start)
@oppenheimer11 when you go at constant low speed (during formation lap) you don't accelerate/decelerate = no front/rear transfer. Low speed = negligible side-Gs/insignificant side loading.
@oppenheimer11 "increase (fronts) braking bias", make "more front biased braking" for fronts to brake more .. but also easier to lock/loose traction first with locked fronts "pushed outside of turn" .. thus understeer. "decrease bias", "less front-biased" - rears easier to lock first and and if it's mid-turn (as usually is during trailbraking), extra rotation or even rear lock/slip (think of like pulling handbrake that locks only rears), thus - more oversteer. You don't change grip by changing brake bias. You change which end will get braked more/are easier to lock/slip first and thus propagate more understeer or oversteer.
@oppenheimer11if there is enough grip then due mass transfer to front from deceleration fronts get more grip and rears less, true. But "brake bias" adjustment valve (and thus what increasing/decreasing bias is referred to) just changes by relatively how much "biased" single hydraulic pressure from one brake pedal's master cylinders is split to two loops, front brakes vs rear brakes subloops, to which car's end brake pads relatively to each other will press stronger to discs/generate more friction/brake more. In street cars it's usually unadjustable fixed bias ratio, in many of race cars it's adjustable for wished handling changes. BB affects just braking, it's up to pilot to how to use those changes for specific car handling changes.
Awesome video, Im getting to understand brake bias much better. I didnt think it would affect the driving experience so much. A must watch if you are new to Sim racing.
Thanks, really great, clear and concise guide. One point I would add is that over longer races, depending on the car you might be shifting the brake bias over the duration of a stint, as the car gets lighter on fuel. Depending on where the fuel tank sits, the front or the rear of the car might get lighter so you may slowly shift bias away from that side as the car gets lighter, to preserve similar behaviour.
Brake Bias was something I thought I should change once in a lap and that was it, and that it wasn't something that important. After I started thinking about how I could make my car brake better or more stable during specific corners I soon realized how much it meant for lap times. I improved significantly after doing so. For example, in Spa, at the first corner and the last chicane I needed to have higher front bias in order to help the car brake better but have less of it for other corners because I needed the car to rotate and not stop as much. That alone made me shave about a second off a lap
That's awesome! A perfect example of how you can find the gains that seem impossible, just by giving everything a bit of thought and effort. Thanks so much for watching and commenting, too!
Mate, this is so helpful. Thank you very much. Only been at it six months or so with Sim Racing and a lot of this kind of stuff seemed really overwhelming. I feel like a lot of progress with some practice is to come now I know this
I'll be honest, this is the first "set up" type video I've watched where I came away with a clear understanding of what were talking about. Why it's important and how to implement meathod into my driving. 100% New Sub her.
I've been play GT sport and now 7 for thousands of hours. I use BB for a few situations. You covered them well. Even showed demonstrations. Thank you for your help. But I've scoured the internet for someone ( A pro) to confirm and or have so much time in that they've found this little trick....and you DO NOT mention it either. So in the RAIN. Put BB All the way Foward to the fronts and you will stop without slides ...full pedal. So far I kill it in the rain just because of my braking technique. I challenge you to try...and tell me what you think. If it's food enough.....maybe a how to vid? Thanks
Even though I always had a rough idea of what brake bias is, now I really understand how to use it and when to increase or decrease it... thank you for the video, very helpful and well explained
I just stumbled across your videos. Wow! You’re making this so much easier to understand. Thank you! I’ve messed around with my brake bias but rarely knew what result I was looking for.
Been brought to your channel from catching a few of your shorts in my feed, really informative and professional really appreciate the training session, subbed thanks
Thanks for taking the time to explain this so well. It'll help the whole community as noobs as myself work towards online racing to be less of a menace to others by crashing all the time due to lack of knowledge.
Thanks for the video mate, I used the brake bias in the opposite way of purpose, I always thought it would make it easier to brake bringing the balance to the front, but last weeks I found that last laps of the race I'm losing so much time in braking, not being able to stop the car like at the first laps and rivals cut distance, it's because I needed to be moving to the back instead of increasing, very interesting
Brake Bias is also a mighty tool to get your tires in the right temperature window. If you start with cold tires you want something that's "50:50%", so each tire gets equally heated. This kind of depends on the car, Mercedes and BMW have more weight on the front so more help on the rear is needed, Audi is well balanced, McLaren or Porsche need help a tthe front. It also depends on the track. If you have long fast corners you need to watch rear, if you have a long straight or slow corners your front might get too cold. Once the tires have reached their window and you can keep them in it, you can use BB for performance only. Or you start easing of the load from the hot tire onto the cold, so you can extend your stint longer into the race. That's really crucial in endurance racing where too much rubber on one tire means you didn't used all of the potential grip you carried around all stint. But like everything in racing this has it's limits. In Mugello and Barcelona it's impossible to keep the front left alive until you used your rightside tires. And at the Nordschleife or in Dubai you have most likely cooked your left rear first. But at shorter tracks you can gain a lap per stint and at long tracks like Nordschleife or LeMans you can preserve tracktion for the long straights. On any track you can use BB offensively to trailbrake longer to get the move done under braking ( higher value, faster for longer), or you preheat your rear for better traction (lower value, outdrag your opponent out of a corner). In similar fasion you could use it defensively to counter the door. But this is a double edge sword as it makes you vulnerable to the unsuspected attack and costs you laptime. ^^ best defense is always just to be faster.
Danny, what a brilliant video. I assumed that BB was only to balance tyre wear and where you prefer your main braking force. Tried it in GT7. Almost a second per lap quicker. Many thanks. Like deployed & subscribed
Great video. Had some issues in iracing/gt3 and Rudskogen. Drove the Audi and had problems in turn 3, the rear spins, and turn 10, can't trailbrake deep into the turn. Changed the brake bias so the car became more stable, voila! Gained more than 0.5 seconds Thank you!
This was great information. The tip to use it on first lap is gold! Never thought to use it first lap. I usually just lay back and take it easy. I'm going to try to gain back some of that time now!
I have been watching a lot of video on BB and whenever I thought I understood it, it escapes me. With your video however, it all fell in place. Something about your structure made it very simple. I hope this is only one of many videos to come about sim racing set up tutorials in general because if they are done the same way, I would be a very happy sim racer 😊
Well done Danny, probably the best explanation of sim setup I have ever seen, not everyone understands everything about sim racing, so thanks for an uncomplicated explanation for new to sim recing like myself, it can be daunting to race online, maybe this will help me gain a place or 2, thanx again!
Thanks mate, don't ever give up on it because the best is just around the corner - you're well on the way to properly enjoying it and feeling like you've got it nailed.
Yo thanks for the video! Clearest explanation i have found. Most videos they dart around and just do a simple explanation while also not providing any sort of example so im just left confused! Thank you for helping me finally understand it way better
When i took a physics class in high school the teacher asked me when youre more likely tp shock someone when you touch them. I replied, "when its cold." When he asked why, "i dont know, i just noticed thats when it happens more often." He said, "thats the correct answer!" Then he went on to explain it, of course.
What an excellent job you have done with this video. Thank you. The work you put into the screenshots of the cars performing the way you’re describing is outstanding! I’m going to share this with several of my friends who like me are trying to learn how to add more skills and techniques to our Sim racing.
Probable THE video every (new) simracer was waiting for. Great video with christal clear explanations. Thank you so much Danny. The clip about trail braking was also an eye opener for me. Thnx again.
I remember months back we had a race A at Monza in the McLaren P1, that race was pure carnage. Then once again we had the Honda RA272 at Monza as well. Both races were absolute carnage but fun
The best explanation for brake bias that I have ever seen! Great video you earned yourself a sub for that! I've been simracing for 1,5years now and i've never touched the brake bias before i've always just loaded in a setup from a setup shop and didn't change a thing.
thank you so mutch for this video I was absolutely atrocius with brake bias I wulde use it in every corner by 3 to 4 percent. Now I understand how it really works thanks!
Got DQ’d yesterday in a Formula 1600 Race from a slide out during a battle for the lead 😢 Man I wish I’d had seen this yesterday at work instead of today 😂 Awesome video. Will definitely be implementing brake bias into my racing.
Definitely gonna be lowering my BB after watching this. I've found that it helps me feel better with the car, but given the explanation of the video, I've just gone way too far. If I bring it down just 1%, I can probably improve a bit more. I've gotten over a second faster on most tracks in the last year just trying to break bad habits and use every bit of track available, and this will definitely be a new tool in the arsenal
11:00 Thank god the constant oversteer of my 32% brake bias setup on a RWD swapped twin turbo toyota hilux with carbon ceramic brakes is giving me constant reminders to focus 15:00 If you are worried about locking both, that's a skill issue
When I saw the title while scrolling I had to check whole made the vid, I saw danny and I knew I was in. Just started 3 months and this was massive bro thank you.
Great video. I started messing about with break bias a while ago and it does sometimes help. But in hectic racing scenario's it can proof too much for me to handle and it becomes more of a "set it and forget it" thing.
Not sure about the shift brake bias rearwards to stop at hairpins. The reason brake bias is sent forwards (beyond stability) is weight shifts to the front wheels, and therefore the front wheels can handle more braking force before locking up. Surely in a big braking zone, it makes sense to leave it forwards or even shift it further forward to brake harder and therefore stop faster before locking up?
It's all down to the rears being under-utilised in most scenarios because pushing them to the limit of grip makes the car very unstable going into corners. If you're braking in a straight line, however, you don't need that safety margin and can ask for the rears to do a bit more work without fear of spinning out. Best thing to do is try it and see what you think!
What an awesome video. Thank you for that. I am playing on PC Controller and AMS2 is my game of choice, but Controller is tricky, I can't wait to give these settings a try.
Great video! Thank you! I 've been challenging myself to vary Brake Bias before watching this video, but was overdoing it. Like going 4 or 5 % from my starting bias, usually reducing the front til I got the spins. Then I would gingerly and slowly start to increase it. I learned from your video. Single percent up or down. This will, I think, help with my consistency. Thanks agai!
Brilliant video! Simply explained and really informative. Probably the best I’ve seen. This is going to make a big difference to the way I drive on track. Thanks, keep up the great work.
As an avid iRacing circle track/NASCAR racer, I use brake bias all the time to loosen (induces oversteer) or tighten (induces understeer) the car up to rotate through the center of the corner better. As mentioned in the video, in a fixed setup series this often the only thing to play with tuning wise. If you can grasp how to use it to your advantage, you’ll find success.
I love this channel! Thank you so much! Keep releasing content. There way you explain things is great and you don’t put weird vocal effects or pronunciation to sound more “professional” thank you for being you.
Second video I watched (and subscribed) great points and detailed explanation . I'm hoping this tip gets me to the A DR in GT7 cause every time I get close I fall back. I'll be sure to watch more keep them coming please and thank you.
Outstanding video, thanks for making this! Would you consider a similar video covering other common in-car adjustments. Particularly ARB? I'm mostly curious about how you may make these adjustments over the course of a tire stint.
So much time can be had purely because of braking. Im been learing to "feel" car alot more and looking at BB to aid that learning curve. My general race craft and pace is quite good but my braking leaves alot to be desired. What I also tend to do is if the brake zone is going up a hill, I will set my BB forward by 1-2 and going downhill I set it to the rear by 1-2. Going up or down in a brake zone already has the weight shifted to that orientation and the BB helps neutralize that already shifted weight.
A great video Danny. It took me a while to understand the difference brake bias makes to the handing and braking. I probably don't use it as much as I should to be honest. I certainly remember the races at Hockenheim and Fuji where you had the spins. I thought you were doing it on purpose to make me feel better at my poor driving ability.😉 Keep up the good work matey.
Cheers Doug - At this point I'm like a fat football coach, I like to think I can teach folks the ways, but I'm a tiny bit out of practice myself in terms of execution...
Just came across this awesome video. Ive had questions about BB but never really cared to learn it. I finally feel like i have a good handle on it. Only question i have is how to use or if it helps to use it while in dirty air?
@@dannyleeracing And a Sub 😉. Been out of sim racing for 18 Months after burning out from lack of progress, taking it too seriously and needing a break. On my return running better than ever before and your videos are a massive help. Thanks!
objection !!! i remember reading about this and pretty sure that more front bias means that I can stop the car more close to the turn meaning that I have shorter breaking distance, in this video it is saying the opposite. It does not make sense to me that decreased break bias, more break at the rear can lead to shorter breaking distance, please someone explain this to me which one is true
I was wondering the magnitude of loss in time by running a safer brake bias. I know its corner dependent but for example on a hairpin would you lose half a second or a tenth by running 1% higher brake bias?
They're about an hour away from me too yet I've never paid a visit. Having never used a wheelbase above 9nm, it would be nice to sample a full fat Simucube to feel what it's like. If you do go, tell 'em I sentcha.
Thankyou for your video. It was well produced and shared some valuable aspects of brake bias adjustment. However I will add some more vital information and query one or two points. Longitudinal weight shift: is greater in the BIG stopping zones. You brake harder for longer so the fronts are more weighted and so can handle more retardation. So it's in those where its more important to move bias fwds. Failure to do so leaves too much retardation to the rears that get lighter hence lockups. As such I disagree with your Hockenheim Hairpin example where you advise moving rearwards. The braking distance will be best when all 4 tyres are loaded to their maximum potential. So we are not in agreement that moving it rearward helps braking distance. On cold tyres on opening laps the weight shift is less as total grip/retardation is less so the movement of bias is ALWAYS rearward. As tyres grip up it moves fwds again. This is why the fronts normally lock up on cold tyres. Same principle when moving to harder/softer tyre compounds. The more tyre grip, the more fwds and vice versa. Worn tyres same. Tyre management: move bias away from the end that's wearing more or needs protection. Handling balance management: On this we are agreed. Fwds means understeer, rearward means oversteer. However IMO this is a feature to be used in partial braking zones vs big stopping zones. Finally the theory: The reason handling management works like this is that by tasking either end with less (longitudinal) braking duties frees up some more of the tyres finite contact patch for (lateral) cornering duties. So moving bias to one end makes that end corner less well. So fwds = understeer rearward = oversteer. Armed with this knowledge drivers can move bias within a lap and within a stint to optimise braking tyre wear and handling balance.
Le Mans is a great example! I always use baby tea from the Porsche Curves right up until I drive past KFC. Then it's Builder's Tea for the heavy braking zones for the chicanes. Changing the bias twice per lap makes driving Le Mans so much more confident
Just to inform you guys, Race Anywhere have recently narrowed the range of items that are eligible for the 5% discount, now mainly applicable to Pro Sim Rig and Race Anywhere branded items (rig components). Sadly, this means the example shown in the video (5% off a simucube base) is no longer possible. It's a shame and I can see why it's no longer possible, but I have to let you know so you don't feel as if I'm misleading viewers and baiting people with a deal that can no longer be got. What third parties do with their discount programs is totally out of my hands and all I can do is inform you of the change. Thanks for your understanding...
Wow. This is probably the clearest video on BB i have seen.
I second that. The others I've seen didn't explain it as well and left me a bit intimidated. Thank you!
Indeed, very clear. Great video, thank you!!!
What an awesome video. Love the background footage!
This other video talks about when you’ll need to change brake bias in a bit more depth. Really good info when paired with this video.
Why you NEED to change Brake Bias [SIMRACING TUTORIAL]
ua-cam.com/video/UK2sl0Po-1I/v-deo.html
Yep, very clear! Thanks!
I agree
Additional point:
Brake bias also affects tire temperature and therefore overall grip of that tire - more temperature means less grip. For T1 at spa for example you want a more forward bias to not heat up the rears to give you maximum grip for accelerating up the next long straight.
Too much heat, not more temperature (temperature is just a measurement), and not enough heat can both hinder a tire's performance.
Unless driving a fwd
@@felon5714 you just made me lose sooooooo many brain cells
@@xMorales_x why lol
@@felon5714he probably didn't have much to begin with
Thank you a lot! I did not notice it, but my brake bias on AC with the AMG GT3 EVO was standard on 71%. Now changing it between 52 and 54%. Laptime on Redbull Ring GP went from 1:32.80-1:34.00 to 1:30.00-1:30.90 on my first 15 laps, trying this out. The Lap record now is 1:29.792. Great video!
Wow, yeah, that would've been killing your car's balance!
Oem cars are always heavily front biased and you generally want front bias anyway as your fronts will always have more grip on brakes so easier to lock the rears. I'm surprised anywhere near 5050 is drivable but I've never used iracing. But most cars in ac (and actually all other sims/games i play) I end up between 65-75 front usually.
This is probably the best informative and graphical pleasing bias video ever made. Nice work !
Thanks man, hope it helped you!
Great coverage of the most important topic in racing. Here is another tip. During a long race for tracks like Spa or Fuji turn 1, where you have a heavy brake into a hairpin followed by a long straight where corner exit is so important and cars without TC like PCup or formula cars. Moving the Bias forward just for this turn to keep the rear tires cool can help you get better traction getting back on throttle. It is another tool for the tool box when solving problems on track during a race. Managing tire temps through Brake Bias is yet another dimension of choosing the best balance between safety, rotation during cornering and traction on exit.
I'm sim-racing for years and doing fine but you opened my eyes to things which held me from improving! thank you!
Bits missed:
1) in sims that simulate rain, the more wet>the less grip>the less mass transfer - more rearwards/closer to 50/50 bias optimal
2) if one is to heat brakes with brake dragging during formation lap, as there is no mass transfer, again, move brake bias to rear to not overheat fronts/for more even heat up (NOT forgetting to move it back to normal prior start)
@oppenheimer11 when you go at constant low speed (during formation lap) you don't accelerate/decelerate = no front/rear transfer. Low speed = negligible side-Gs/insignificant side loading.
@oppenheimer11 "increase (fronts) braking bias", make "more front biased braking" for fronts to brake more .. but also easier to lock/loose traction first with locked fronts "pushed outside of turn" .. thus understeer.
"decrease bias", "less front-biased" - rears easier to lock first and and if it's mid-turn (as usually is during trailbraking), extra rotation or even rear lock/slip (think of like pulling handbrake that locks only rears), thus - more oversteer.
You don't change grip by changing brake bias. You change which end will get braked more/are easier to lock/slip first and thus propagate more understeer or oversteer.
@oppenheimer11if there is enough grip then due mass transfer to front from deceleration fronts get more grip and rears less, true.
But "brake bias" adjustment valve (and thus what increasing/decreasing bias is referred to) just changes by relatively how much "biased" single hydraulic pressure from one brake pedal's master cylinders is split to two loops, front brakes vs rear brakes subloops, to which car's end brake pads relatively to each other will press stronger to discs/generate more friction/brake more. In street cars it's usually unadjustable fixed bias ratio, in many of race cars it's adjustable for wished handling changes. BB affects just braking, it's up to pilot to how to use those changes for specific car handling changes.
Awesome video, Im getting to understand brake bias much better. I didnt think it would affect the driving experience so much. A must watch if you are new to Sim racing.
well i needed this like 7 months ago! You've opened up a whole new space to gain time that I never knew existed. Thank you.
Thanks man, cheers for the watch and comment!
Thanks, really great, clear and concise guide. One point I would add is that over longer races, depending on the car you might be shifting the brake bias over the duration of a stint, as the car gets lighter on fuel. Depending on where the fuel tank sits, the front or the rear of the car might get lighter so you may slowly shift bias away from that side as the car gets lighter, to preserve similar behaviour.
Every video you make is absolutely amazing. This one is no different. Thanks so much for these!
Thanks man, far too kind
Brake Bias was something I thought I should change once in a lap and that was it, and that it wasn't something that important. After I started thinking about how I could make my car brake better or more stable during specific corners I soon realized how much it meant for lap times. I improved significantly after doing so. For example, in Spa, at the first corner and the last chicane I needed to have higher front bias in order to help the car brake better but have less of it for other corners because I needed the car to rotate and not stop as much. That alone made me shave about a second off a lap
That's awesome! A perfect example of how you can find the gains that seem impossible, just by giving everything a bit of thought and effort. Thanks so much for watching and commenting, too!
Mate, this is so helpful. Thank you very much. Only been at it six months or so with Sim Racing and a lot of this kind of stuff seemed really overwhelming. I feel like a lot of progress with some practice is to come now I know this
I'll be honest, this is the first "set up" type video I've watched where I came away with a clear understanding of what were talking about. Why it's important and how to implement meathod into my driving. 100% New Sub her.
That's brilliant, thanks so much for leaving such kind feedback!
I've been play GT sport and now 7 for thousands of hours. I use BB for a few situations. You covered them well. Even showed demonstrations. Thank you for your help. But I've scoured the internet for someone ( A pro) to confirm and or have so much time in that they've found this little trick....and you DO NOT mention it either.
So in the RAIN. Put BB All the way Foward to the fronts and you will stop without slides ...full pedal.
So far I kill it in the rain just because of my braking technique. I challenge you to try...and tell me what you think. If it's food enough.....maybe a how to vid? Thanks
Even though I always had a rough idea of what brake bias is, now I really understand how to use it and when to increase or decrease it... thank you for the video, very helpful and well explained
Thanks!
I just stumbled across your videos. Wow! You’re making this so much easier to understand. Thank you! I’ve messed around with my brake bias but rarely knew what result I was looking for.
Thank you for your support, it's much appreciated!
Just bought my first ffb wheel, senn like 8 vidoes from u. Best teacher ever
I've read up on brake bias before but never truly understood it until watching this video, amazing content. Thank you so much
Best thing to hear! Thanks so much for stopping and leaving your feedback
Been brought to your channel from catching a few of your shorts in my feed, really informative and professional really appreciate the training session, subbed thanks
Thanks for taking the time to explain this so well. It'll help the whole community as noobs as myself work towards online racing to be less of a menace to others by crashing all the time due to lack of knowledge.
And thank you for watching and commenting, I appreciate it!
0% milk in my coffee, 0% milk in my cuppa. AGGRESSIVE SETUP
I’m with everyone else in that I’ve watched several BB videos and this is finally the one that made it click for me. Great content, Danny.
Thanks so much Alex, that's a damn fine thing to read and I hope to keep supplying more like this
Thanks for the video mate, I used the brake bias in the opposite way of purpose, I always thought it would make it easier to brake bringing the balance to the front, but last weeks I found that last laps of the race I'm losing so much time in braking, not being able to stop the car like at the first laps and rivals cut distance, it's because I needed to be moving to the back instead of increasing, very interesting
I have seen many videos about bb and still don’t understand a thing. This video is the clearest explanation so far. Great work❤❤
Thanks so much, too kind - I hope for this result every time I create a guide
Brake Bias is also a mighty tool to get your tires in the right temperature window. If you start with cold tires you want something that's "50:50%", so each tire gets equally heated. This kind of depends on the car, Mercedes and BMW have more weight on the front so more help on the rear is needed, Audi is well balanced, McLaren or Porsche need help a tthe front. It also depends on the track. If you have long fast corners you need to watch rear, if you have a long straight or slow corners your front might get too cold.
Once the tires have reached their window and you can keep them in it, you can use BB for performance only. Or you start easing of the load from the hot tire onto the cold, so you can extend your stint longer into the race. That's really crucial in endurance racing where too much rubber on one tire means you didn't used all of the potential grip you carried around all stint.
But like everything in racing this has it's limits. In Mugello and Barcelona it's impossible to keep the front left alive until you used your rightside tires. And at the Nordschleife or in Dubai you have most likely cooked your left rear first. But at shorter tracks you can gain a lap per stint and at long tracks like Nordschleife or LeMans you can preserve tracktion for the long straights.
On any track you can use BB offensively to trailbrake longer to get the move done under braking ( higher value, faster for longer), or you preheat your rear for better traction (lower value, outdrag your opponent out of a corner). In similar fasion you could use it defensively to counter the door. But this is a double edge sword as it makes you vulnerable to the unsuspected attack and costs you laptime. ^^ best defense is always just to be faster.
Danny, what a brilliant video. I assumed that BB was only to balance tyre wear and where you prefer your main braking force. Tried it in GT7. Almost a second per lap quicker. Many thanks.
Like deployed & subscribed
Thanks man, cheers for taking the time to watch and comment
A video on differentials would be amazing too. ❤
Great video. Had some issues in iracing/gt3 and Rudskogen. Drove the Audi and had problems in turn 3, the rear spins, and turn 10, can't trailbrake deep into the turn. Changed the brake bias so the car became more stable, voila! Gained more than 0.5 seconds
Thank you!
This was great information. The tip to use it on first lap is gold! Never thought to use it first lap. I usually just lay back and take it easy. I'm going to try to gain back some of that time now!
Thanks man - sometimes that little nudge of balance on the first lap or two can really save you
I have been watching a lot of video on BB and whenever I thought I understood it, it escapes me. With your video however, it all fell in place. Something about your structure made it very simple. I hope this is only one of many videos to come about sim racing set up tutorials in general because if they are done the same way, I would be a very happy sim racer 😊
Thanks man, I've done many tutorials like this so check them all out in my Playlists
Well done Danny, probably the best explanation of sim setup I have ever seen, not everyone understands everything about sim racing, so thanks for an uncomplicated explanation for new to sim recing like myself, it can be daunting to race online, maybe this will help me gain a place or 2, thanx again!
Thanks mate, don't ever give up on it because the best is just around the corner - you're well on the way to properly enjoying it and feeling like you've got it nailed.
Yo thanks for the video! Clearest explanation i have found. Most videos they dart around and just do a simple explanation while also not providing any sort of example so im just left confused! Thank you for helping me finally understand it way better
Thank you so much for the feedback - I really hope it helps you out as you go
“You don’t need to knows the ins and out on HOW it works, just that it DOES” damn straight.
When i took a physics class in high school the teacher asked me when youre more likely tp shock someone when you touch them. I replied, "when its cold." When he asked why, "i dont know, i just noticed thats when it happens more often." He said, "thats the correct answer!" Then he went on to explain it, of course.
What an excellent job you have done with this video. Thank you. The work you put into the screenshots of the cars performing the way you’re describing is outstanding! I’m going to share this with several of my friends who like me are trying to learn how to add more skills and techniques to our Sim racing.
Thank you very much, great to hear!
Probable THE video every (new) simracer was waiting for. Great video with christal clear explanations. Thank you so much Danny. The clip about trail braking was also an eye opener for me. Thnx again.
Thanks so much for taking a second to leave such a lovely comment! The sort of words you can really butter your toast with.
The only video one will ever need about brake bias. Amazing job, mate!
I remember months back we had a race A at Monza in the McLaren P1, that race was pure carnage. Then once again we had the Honda RA272 at Monza as well. Both races were absolute carnage but fun
The best explanation for brake bias that I have ever seen!
Great video you earned yourself a sub for that!
I've been simracing for 1,5years now and i've never touched the brake bias before i've always just loaded in a setup from a setup shop and didn't change a thing.
Thanks man, glad you found it helpful and thanks for the sub - it's a big deal indeed!
Watched many other videos and couldn’t get my head around it. However thanks to you I now understand. Thanks
Thanks man, that's the sort of comment that gets me out of my seat and go stick the kettle on in satisfaction
Thx man, i always tought i felt understear, while trail braking... it was just too much weight in front while braking
thank you so mutch for this video I was absolutely atrocius with brake bias I wulde use it in every corner by 3 to 4 percent. Now I understand how it really works thanks!
Got DQ’d yesterday in a Formula 1600 Race from a slide out during a battle for the lead 😢 Man I wish I’d had seen this yesterday at work instead of today 😂 Awesome video. Will definitely be implementing brake bias into my racing.
Incredible video. Never thought I'd be able to understand the more advanced mechanics but it's so simple. Cheers
Definitely gonna be lowering my BB after watching this. I've found that it helps me feel better with the car, but given the explanation of the video, I've just gone way too far. If I bring it down just 1%, I can probably improve a bit more. I've gotten over a second faster on most tracks in the last year just trying to break bad habits and use every bit of track available, and this will definitely be a new tool in the arsenal
11:00 Thank god the constant oversteer of my 32% brake bias setup on a RWD swapped twin turbo toyota hilux with carbon ceramic brakes is giving me constant reminders to focus
15:00 If you are worried about locking both, that's a skill issue
When I saw the title while scrolling I had to check whole made the vid, I saw danny and I knew I was in. Just started 3 months and this was massive bro thank you.
Great video. I started messing about with break bias a while ago and it does sometimes help. But in hectic racing scenario's it can proof too much for me to handle and it becomes more of a "set it and forget it" thing.
Not sure about the shift brake bias rearwards to stop at hairpins. The reason brake bias is sent forwards (beyond stability) is weight shifts to the front wheels, and therefore the front wheels can handle more braking force before locking up. Surely in a big braking zone, it makes sense to leave it forwards or even shift it further forward to brake harder and therefore stop faster before locking up?
It's all down to the rears being under-utilised in most scenarios because pushing them to the limit of grip makes the car very unstable going into corners. If you're braking in a straight line, however, you don't need that safety margin and can ask for the rears to do a bit more work without fear of spinning out.
Best thing to do is try it and see what you think!
Spoon curve at Suzuka can be helped by increased brake bias, especially because that circuit is so lopsided.
Good example - Spoon curve is just evil
What an awesome video. Thank you for that. I am playing on PC Controller and AMS2 is my game of choice, but Controller is tricky, I can't wait to give these settings a try.
You deserve many more subs, Danny. Thank you for everything you do.
Great video! Thank you! I 've been challenging myself to vary Brake Bias before watching this video, but was overdoing it. Like going 4 or 5 % from my starting bias, usually reducing the front til I got the spins. Then I would gingerly and slowly start to increase it. I learned from your video. Single percent up or down. This will, I think, help with my consistency. Thanks agai!
Brilliant video! Simply explained and really informative. Probably the best I’ve seen. This is going to make a big difference to the way I drive on track. Thanks, keep up the great work.
11:21 cheeky advert there
As an avid iRacing circle track/NASCAR racer, I use brake bias all the time to loosen (induces oversteer) or tighten (induces understeer) the car up to rotate through the center of the corner better. As mentioned in the video, in a fixed setup series this often the only thing to play with tuning wise. If you can grasp how to use it to your advantage, you’ll find success.
This video just got me a pole and win on the gt4 fixed. It COMPLETELY changed the cayman, thank you Danny
Awesome!!!
I love this channel! Thank you so much! Keep releasing content. There way you explain things is great and you don’t put weird vocal effects or pronunciation to sound more “professional” thank you for being you.
Solid VERY solid video with great examples! Love your slow mo videos as well! Gg
Thank you, man!
You got my like half way in the video. Great job explaining this!
Great job explaining and giving multiple examples. This was really helpful!
Great explaination! thanks for making this video
Exactly what i needed to learn yet i didnt even know that i needed it. Thanks for the video!
thx for upload, would love to see your attempts at Dirt Rally 2.0 and a blogpost following up on ham/ver haters
Second video I watched (and subscribed) great points and detailed explanation . I'm hoping this tip gets me to the A DR in GT7 cause every time I get close I fall back. I'll be sure to watch more keep them coming please and thank you.
Thanks man, appreciate the kind feedback and I hope it gives you a fresh dose of inspiration! Cheers for the sub!
Best explanation of brake bias on the internet. Well done and thank you.
Wow this is the best BB video ever made
Thanks, man
Brilliant. Thanks for that video man. Great help 👍🏻🥃🥃🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻🍻🏁🏁🏁🏁
any thoughts on uphill/downhill braking zones?
Also worth mentioning brake balance adjustments can be gradient-dependent as the weight balance of the car can shift.
Definitely - fuel burn can affect the behaviour of the car all by itself
Great content Danny BB explained perfectly...
Came in handy for the N24h 😂
Very goog and clear explanation of BB. Could you elaborate a little about BB and FWD cars vs RWD ? Thanks
Super informative video, mate. I'm always struggling with brake bias. Hopefully now I'll get it dialed in better 👍
Excellent video. I’ll be diving into the rest of your content now
Outstanding video, thanks for making this! Would you consider a similar video covering other common in-car adjustments. Particularly ARB? I'm mostly curious about how you may make these adjustments over the course of a tire stint.
good point; how does using arb relate to brake bias
I've learned it easily when in f2 on f1 21 when i started sliding around under braking.
Thanks, great advice! I knew decreasing brake bias would assist with turn-in but had no idea what percentages I should be using :)
great video, i change BB an absolute ton on every single lap pretty much
So much time can be had purely because of braking. Im been learing to "feel" car alot more and looking at BB to aid that learning curve. My general race craft and pace is quite good but my braking leaves alot to be desired.
What I also tend to do is if the brake zone is going up a hill, I will set my BB forward by 1-2 and going downhill I set it to the rear by 1-2. Going up or down in a brake zone already has the weight shifted to that orientation and the BB helps neutralize that already shifted weight.
Really helped clear up BB for me, thank you!
Nice footage from SGN, sadly i have not snuck in :P
A great video Danny.
It took me a while to understand the difference brake bias makes to the handing and braking.
I probably don't use it as much as I should to be honest.
I certainly remember the races at Hockenheim and Fuji where you had the spins.
I thought you were doing it on purpose to make me feel better at my poor driving ability.😉
Keep up the good work matey.
Cheers Doug - At this point I'm like a fat football coach, I like to think I can teach folks the ways, but I'm a tiny bit out of practice myself in terms of execution...
Daaaaaam.....now thats an exceptionaly great explanation😁👍 Thank you 😉
Just came across this awesome video. Ive had questions about BB but never really cared to learn it. I finally feel like i have a good handle on it. Only question i have is how to use or if it helps to use it while in dirty air?
46k views Sim racing is growing so much and I love it.
Fantastic explanation and thorough 👍👍
Thanks so much, dude - appreciate the view and comment!
@@dannyleeracing And a Sub 😉. Been out of sim racing for 18 Months after burning out from lack of progress, taking it too seriously and needing a break.
On my return running better than ever before and your videos are a massive help. Thanks!
Really neat explanation and examples. Thanks!
That first tea 😱 5:35
objection !!! i remember reading about this and pretty sure that more front bias means that I can stop the car more close to the turn meaning that I have shorter breaking distance, in this video it is saying the opposite. It does not make sense to me that decreased break bias, more break at the rear can lead to shorter breaking distance, please someone explain this to me which one is true
Silly question - If you have a lower ride height at the rear of the car than the front would reducing your brake bias improve your stopping distances?
What a fantastic video this is clearest I have seen brake bias explained thank you
Glad you like it, thanks for watching and commenting!
Another corner for adding BB is the corkscrew at Laguna Seca
I was wondering the magnitude of loss in time by running a safer brake bias. I know its corner dependent but for example on a hairpin would you lose half a second or a tenth by running 1% higher brake bias?
Great stuff mate!
This is a great video. Well put together. Ty
Thanks Danny might just pay the store a visit as it less than an hour away from me
Much appreciated
Great Video
They're about an hour away from me too yet I've never paid a visit. Having never used a wheelbase above 9nm, it would be nice to sample a full fat Simucube to feel what it's like. If you do go, tell 'em I sentcha.
Thankyou for your video.
It was well produced and shared some valuable aspects of brake bias adjustment.
However I will add some more vital information and query one or two points.
Longitudinal weight shift: is greater in the BIG stopping zones. You brake harder for longer so the fronts are more weighted and so can handle more retardation. So it's in those where its more important to move bias fwds. Failure to do so leaves too much retardation to the rears that get lighter hence lockups.
As such I disagree with your Hockenheim Hairpin example where you advise moving rearwards.
The braking distance will be best when all 4 tyres are loaded to their maximum potential. So we are not in agreement that moving it rearward helps braking distance.
On cold tyres on opening laps the weight shift is less as total grip/retardation is less so the movement of bias is ALWAYS rearward.
As tyres grip up it moves fwds again.
This is why the fronts normally lock up on cold tyres.
Same principle when moving to harder/softer tyre compounds. The more tyre grip, the more fwds and vice versa.
Worn tyres same.
Tyre management: move bias away from the end that's wearing more or needs protection.
Handling balance management:
On this we are agreed. Fwds means understeer, rearward means oversteer. However IMO this is a feature to be used in partial braking zones vs big stopping zones.
Finally the theory: The reason handling management works like this is that by tasking either end with less (longitudinal) braking duties frees up some more of the tyres finite contact patch for (lateral) cornering duties. So moving bias to one end makes that end corner less well. So fwds = understeer rearward = oversteer.
Armed with this knowledge drivers can move bias within a lap and within a stint to optimise braking tyre wear and handling balance.
Very nice explained! 👍💪
Thank you very much! 👍
Super ! Do you have some advice to know when we need to increase or decrease the « brake migration » features on Mercedes F1 W13 ?
Good instruction ... Baby Tea improved my consistency around Le Mans.
Le Mans is a great example! I always use baby tea from the Porsche Curves right up until I drive past KFC. Then it's Builder's Tea for the heavy braking zones for the chicanes. Changing the bias twice per lap makes driving Le Mans so much more confident