Eduard Messershmitt BF109 G-6 Early 1/48 | The Inner Nerd
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- Опубліковано 27 чер 2024
- Eduard 1/48 Scale Model Messerschmitt BF109 G-6 Early Version (82113) by The Inner Nerd
Instructional time lapse video of the full build, painting and weathering of the Messerschmitt BF109 G-6 Early Version (82113) by Eduard as shown by The Inner Nerd
Useful Links;
00:00 - Cockpit and PE application
04:36 - Assembly & Surface Preparation
08:01 - Paint
09:45 - Masking using Eduard Pre-cut masks
10:34 - Painting upper surface camouflage
14:38 - Decals
16:56 - Weathering
22:56 - Final Reveal
The first part of this video shows the use of Photo Etched parts and scratch building techniques to detail hydraulic pipes and electrical cables professionally and cheaply around both the cockpit and wheel bays. Locitite 406 CA superglue is used in this process combined with CA superglue accelerator/activator to join the two dissimilar materials
The second part shows surface preparation techniques such as filling panel gaps and seams with Deluxe Materials Perfect Plastic Putty modelling filler/putty and sanding them smooth to get a seamless join between parts using a range of sand papers from 800, 1200, 2000, and 3000p dpi grit papers.
Also Black Basing techniques are included in this section using Mr Hobby "Mr Surfacer 1000, 1200 & 1500 Finishing Surfacer" thinned with cellulose lacquer thinners to prime the surface ready for painting, sprayed through an airbrush using Harder & Steenbeck Evolution Silverline Solo Needle/Nozzle: 0.15mm with Badger 1100 with Anti-Pulsation Tank Working Pressure 22psi (1.51bar).
The third part of the video demonstrates the BLACK-BASING technique used to achieve a pre-weathered look and surface texture replicating that of an aged and worn aircraft. Harder & Steenbeck Evolution Silverline is used with Badger 1100 with Anti-Pulsation Tank Working Pressure 22psi (1.51bar).
Also included in this section is the Engine Exhaust painting using Alclad 2 Lacquers (Airframe Aluminium, Aluminium, Steel, Jet Exhaust, Copper & Pale Burnt Metal) and Tamiya clear paints to create a burnt metal effect.
3 layers of Tamiya X-22 Ts-13 clear gloss seal the decals in. This can be decanted and sprayed through an airbrush such as the Harder & Steenbeck Evolution Silverline Solo or sprayed directly from the aerosol spray rattle can.
Decals follow painting with the aid of Mr Hobby Mr Mark Setter & Softer products. These products allow the decal to form to the shapes and panel lines of the surface which you can see in the video.
Next is the weathering of the model. This is started using Abteilung 502 & Winsor & Newton oil paints thinned with white spirit to a wash consistency. Then used as a panel line wash the oil is applied across the model to achieve a dirty, grimey & worn look. Further weathering including Unthinned Abteilung 502 Oil Paints to create streaking and water marks, along with AK Interactive weathering Pigments (Gun Metal, Russian Earth, Europe Earth, Medium Rust and Pigment Fixer, Worn Effects, Dark Streaking Grime Rainmark Effects) concludes weathering.
The final part of the video explains the final assembly of small parts including landing gear, lights, antennas and canopy fitment as the model nears completion. All final assembly is completed with Loctite 406 CA superglue.
Items Used
Airbrush: Harder & Steenbeck Evolution Silverline Solo Needle/Nozzle: 0.15mm
Compressor: Badger 1100 with Anti-Pulsation Tank Working Pressure 22psi (1.51bar)
Paint: Mr Hobby Mr Surfacer 1000, Mr Hobby Mr Surfacer 1200 & Mr Hobby Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500 thinned with cellulose lacquer thinner
Tamiya Acrylics thinned with Tamiya X-20A Thinner
Mr Hobby Aqueous
Abteilung 502 Oils - Black / Industrial Earth / Olive Green
Winsor & Newton Oils - Yellow Ochre / Raw Umber / Burnt Sienna / White
AK Interactive Pigments - Gun Metal, Europe Earth, Russian Earth, Medium Rust, Pigment Fixer
Vallejo Masking Fluid
Winsor & Newton UV Cut Matte Enamel Varnish
Brushes: Pure Sable Brush - Various Sizes
Glue: Tamiya Extra Thin Cement
Tamiya Poly Cement
Revell Contacta Professional
Loctite 406 CA Superglue
Sanding: 3M 600p / 800p / 1200p / 2000p / 3000p sheets & sponges
Tamiya Polishing Compounds (Course, Fine & Finish) - Навчання та стиль
Another amazing model. Can I just ask how you actually do the marbling effect. I’d love to try it but a little scared to have a go.
Hi Mark. Thanks for the comment once again :) So the marbelling effect...
I use around 60/40 thinned paint (enough so that it sprays smooth and doesn't spatter at all, but not so thin that it creates pools easily or comes out like watercolour). The I use a slightly darker shade of the overall colour by adding just a couple of drops of black/brown/midnight blue into the mix. Depending on the strength of the colour though more/less than a couple may be needed to achieve a slightly visible difference.
1st up is the marble layer #1. This should be a tight pattern filling all the individual panels on the surface one-by-one. This will cause the centres of each panel to be more "full".
2nd is the more open pattern. This is to fill in gaps in the first layer and also randomly highlight areas of the surface to create a more textured effect. This is done with the same shade of paint as the first - a slightly lighter version of the overall colour scheme.
3rd is the blending coats. This is done with the *actual* overall colour of the aircraft and is thinned to around 70:30. This spray pattern is sprayed in a very thin even coat across the whole surface to blend the tones below. Be careful not to go too thick too fast here because the work below can be easily be lost. You may need to pass over several times to get the desired effect you're looking for.
Also take into account any washes that you intend to apply as this will emphasise the marbelling further so it's worth adding one more layer than you what looks accurate to get that extra coverage which will be taken back later by the wash.
The blending coat also does not have to be completed over the entire surface in the same layer thicknesses. If you have a particularly worn area you may only want to make 2 passes whereas others will recieve 3 or 4 for example. It all depends on what you're working on and how you want it to look in the end.
Finally you can also highlight the center of individual or all panels with a lighter shade of the overall colour. Do this by adding just a couple of drops of white/sky grey into the mix. Depending on the strength of the colour though more/less than a couple may be needed to achieve a slightly visible difference. This paint should be heavily thinned so that it is barely visible on the surface once painted and is used as a post shading technique to highlght newly replaced or sun bleached planels.
I hope this can help, for a more detailed version of this see my F/A-18D Video here to see the full process.
ua-cam.com/video/L-HeG_ojDMg/v-deo.html
08:15 will show the start of the black basing and marbelling technqiues
The Inner Nerd
Hiya mate, thank you so much for taking the time to explain in great detail I really appreciate it. Very informative. I shall give it a go on my next build. Thanks again Mr Inner Excellent 😂👍🏻 keep up the fantastic work mate.
@@TheInnerNerd Please make a hawker tempest mk 2 of the Pakistan Air Force which was the first fighter of the country.
www.super-hobby.com/products/Hawker-Tempest-Mk.II-IAF-and-RPAF.html#gallery_start
www.squadron.com/Hawker-Tempest-Mk-II-Hi-Tech-p/so32054.htm
Love from Pakistan.
See’s a video by inner nerd while modeling, instantly clicks
Stupendous build once again. I cannot stop watching your videos.
what a lovely build - absolute stunner thank you
Im impressed by Your work, its so complex, and by the result as well.
Outstanding as always! I've just this as an adult as the last one I made was 20 years ago. Great fun but you're techniques are awesome & I learn a lot watching your videos.
An professor, teaching! Thanks a lot man!
Thats a stunner of a build, coupled to a great video, thanks for sharing
Wow. This is amazing. I have learned so much from watching your videos that I am making rapid progress with the quality of my models.
A true work of art
Awesome video. Some great tips and very informative. Thanks for sharing 😃
Another superb model....instructional and worth the time spent watching it. You always provide
so much advice through your work and it inspires a mediocre modeller like me to do better. Thank you
Brilliant job as always !! 👍👍👍
Absolutely brilliant!
Amazing amount of detail, Absolutely loved this. I will really have to try harder, thank you...
Absolutely fabulous 👌
Very good job! Interesting techniques.
Excellent job, perfect...very good!!
Nice work love the paint job!! Keep the videos coming!!
Perfect airbrush! Very nice work! I am thrilled! Thumbs up and so on! 👍
A great painting lesson! Thanks for this wonderful modeling moment!
Outstanding build!
Just seen the video and i"ve been with you since the beginning, all i can say is you're getting better and better, great job, and looking forward to seeing more of the same.
Beautiful work man!!! Love your videos !
Nice work, soon you’ll have a small squadron of BF109’s. Beautifully done.
nice build, great work and great painitng, have fun with your work
Great video as always.
another awesome detailed plane. looks amazing with all the washes and weathering. over all beautiful work as always my friend, take care have a great weekend
Amazing. Just amazing 👍
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Awesome build mate , a masterpiece of the iconic 109
you are an artist great work ... thanks
Great work as always
Nice details love it thanks learnt allot
Excellent finish model and nice weathering. I love the industrial earth oil. I use it quite often as well.
Thank you. Yes the Industrial Earth is such a flexible colour for grime and fuel. Best colour oil I have!
Excellent build 😉👍
OMG…Amazing work
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Love the video .. thank you for it... makes me want to take up modelbuilding again. Love how you detail what paint and materials you use. Without that I wouldn't have a clue how to start. Keep up the good work :)
Great build!
Incredible!
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Beautiful finish. I have built a number of these Eduard kits they are a pleasure to build. Keep up the good work.
Thank you! They are fantastic kits I agree. Very enjoyable build and highly recommend these kits!
Yay for black basing! Totally gives you more control.
Yes this is my go-to techique now. Pre-shading never turns out the way I want it! Thanks for watching :)
Great job!
That's a nice job, it's come up beautifully.
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Me gusta mucho el trabajo sobre este modelo!! Felicidades
AMAZING, makes me want to drop all my current builds and unpack bf110 profipack!
Good Job! Very nice !
..very nice work , Keep'em comin
RJ
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Stunning build my friend
Nice Work! 👍❤
Well done!!!
Gran trabajo. Enhorabuena.
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Nice work.
Amazing work.
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Nicely done I really enjoyed your work👍
Great Messerschmitt very good Work
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Nice Otaku's work👍👍
Wowwww nice kit..... and very good job!!!
Thank you and yes these eduard kits are the best. The spitfire and 109 are the best eduard kits in my opinion from what I've built
@@TheInnerNerd I usually use Hasegawa Models.... But Eduards Kits are really the best! Have a nice day!
Very nice work! Great airbrushing work👍 Working on the Eduard BF109-F4 at the moment..
Amazing.
Herman Grafs plane those tulips on his plane and Hartmans have to be painted no amount of decal solution will work those compound curves. Magnificent work, outstanding results.
Since this kit came with die cut masks it would probably be better if they supplied them for the nose art too. Like you said, the surface is too complex for decals to be of any use there. Thank you and thanks for watching :)
That's next level. Congrats on a great build !
As always lovely job very nice. Steve U.K.
Would you call a master craftsman/skilled professional/artistic prodigy a 'nerd'? No! - nor would I. You are not a nerd - you are the epitome of the first three, and I thank you very much for sharing your skills with us 'learners'.
Très belle maquette congratulations ...
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Fantastic
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Very nicely done! This was actually quite helpful as I’m Hoping to do the 1/24 scale Trumpeter Bf-109 G-6 in the Hermann Graf scheme and don’t really want to use the decals on the nose.
Nice work, doesn't pay to be impatient in the type endeavor.
nice job i hope one day im this good
Fantastic, thoroughly enjoyed watching this.
Is it possible to create a similar finish without an airbrush?
Isn't she just bloody gorgeous , one of the most sexy war birds of all time . And of course her sister
Fräulein Focke Wolf
Nice build video. By the way I use the Industrial earth color on various tanks now after watching yout SdKfz 251 built. Fantastic colour.
Thank you! Oh excellent that's great to hear that my videos have helped you pick out some useful products! The Industrial Earth colour is so versatile it can be used for so many effects from grease and fuel to mud and grime. Glad you found it useful too and thank you for watching. Hope you enjoy the videos!
That is for sure :)
Eduard & Tamiya >>> The Bentley & Lexus in the Modelling World ... 🌍🌷🌿💖
Yes they are at the very top of thier game, rarely a bad kit between them :) Thanks for watching :)
Stumbled across your channel & man you build some amazing models , you patient's to detail is amazing.
I wanted to ask you
Why you thinned the mr surfacer with cellulose rather than thinners
Thank you for finding me and thanks for watching. I used cellulose thinners on this because its cheaper to buy in bulk. I would now use Mr Color Self Levelling Thinner
Mr. Nerd, I was given a model of a P-40 Warhawk that was given to many employees of the Curtiss Aircraft Co. during their manufacturing operations. I would like to send it to you to add to your collection. It's not much to look at just O.D. Green on top and Dull Grey on the bottom mounted on a wooden stand to allow it to be displayed on a desk. Unfortunately, two of the three prop blades are broken but I think you know someone who might be able to fix them unless you'd rather leave them be as it was in this condition when it was given to me when I was in my teens. I'm now 60.
Regards
Warren Pouyer jr.
Your skills have improved a quite a bit in last few years. Especially your gap filling, keep it up. Might give the Tamiya PE razor saws for rescribing along the top seam and other curves, they helped me a lot. Doogs Modeling blog had an interesting article about the sometimes weird fascination with Nazi symbols as it pertains to the modeling world. It is worth a read. You might try a plane with SE Asia camo(F-100 or 105) or a British WWII (the new Tamiya Spit is ridiculous) just to change up colors a bit. Made a nice change of pace for me. Really enjoy yourself videos.
Todd Knight I’ve seen that article too. I found it a bit patronising to be honest. But some points were valid I guess.
The damaged music is no problem - just use my own player/music and enjoy your beautiful work! Thats fact. Thank you!!! Greetings, Frank
The Eduard Kits are awesome. You did a nice Build, i love the paintjob. Greetings Ben
The Eduard Kits are awesome, but not 109-series. Terrible shape of the fuselage and landing gear. bf 109g-6 good only from Tamiya or Zvezda.
The top seem between the fusalage is supposed to be there on the BF-109. I used to fill the seem there too until I learned this.
That’s what I thought too
these videos are so hypnotic !! fabulous build and detailing chap !!! im thinking about getting back into modelling but where do i start ?? buy cheap kits to begin with ?? what would you suggest ?? obviously wont be able to get near to this standard for a week or so lol not !!
Haha I'm pleased to hear they have the content you want to see! I would agree yes. Buy some cheap kits and get practicing your skills and techniques on them and give it a week and you should be this standard! haha. I would highly recommend an airbrush for painting as you can't quite get the same effect with a brush. Other than that Tamiya extra thin cement, cotton buds, toothpicks and patience will get you a long way.
If you need any particular help just let me know in the comments of any of my videos and I'll gladly help you out with your queries. Hope it goes well and look forward to hearing from you.
i did purchase an airbrush a while back but havent had it out of the box !!! would you recomend any particular make of kit to start on ?? many thanks for the reply, oh and basic tools needed to start with ?? (sorry for all the questions) @@TheInnerNerd
Great Job Nerd. I still think you deserve to get paid by a model co!!!
Groovy
Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Awesome work, congratulatios! But I'm curious about a detail... the early G 6 used a large antena mast, without the Df loop, and should be the case of this aircraft used by Hermann Graf. The late production of the G6 uses a small antenna mast and the Df loop. Why did you combine the large antenna mast with the Df loop?
The seam on the upper fuselage is supposed to be there.
Superb skills. Do you wear magnification glasses for all that closeup work?
Thank you. I do use the mag glasses yes. It's a must if I'm going to get the small details in correctly haha. Thanks for watching :)
How challenging was the assembly? AN Eduard BF109 G-6/AS is next on my list
@The Inner Nerd - dude, they told me I was OCD. Beautiful - especially the finishing (2000 grit?!) Did you ever say to yourself "at some point in the 1930s some dude or his wife said "Ze nose of zese planes vill be red! Some vill be yellow! Plus a spiral around ze cannon!" Real life stories, know whatImean? As a child I saw a few warbirds in and out of Inglewood (L.A.X.) and Santa Monica Airport - so shiny (polished aluminum) except for that one B-17 (olive drab) but never, ever like the Luftwaffe paint on a one-oh-nine. Then came the 262...another model!
a little tip for antenna , go to a pound shop and get yourself some packs of ladies hair extensions, you can get black or dark brown and they are the perfect scale for all antenna plus they will only cost £1.00. great build and paint by the way.
Thank you and good tip! I think I'll be using the fishing wire though as I have around 200m left of it
Wonderful build and video- thanks for sharing! When you brush on the masking fluid is the paint beneath protected? Or is it applied right to the paint? Varnish used on between the two? Thanks very much!
Thank you. The masking fluid can be applied to both. Here I apply straight to the paint
@@TheInnerNerd thanks very much for taking the time to reply. Appreciate it!
14:00 name song? Fantastic aircraft and I love to see you at work, awesome!
Excellent model, I'm really impressed with your patience when maskign the tulips.
I've read on two sites that the decals stick immediately after touching the surface, is that true?
Thank you and yes they took a lot of effort to get correct. 45 mins of initial masking and then the small strips on top of that took some serious effort 😩 As for your question on decals: They do stick but that's due to water retention, they don't actually start to adhere until the decal solutions evaporated/dissolved or whatever it does. Once the solution is dry they are pretty much concrete
@@TheInnerNerd should apply a generous amount of water in the decal area to float the decal into position?
How did you make the squiggly lines in the masking paper? Fantastic build, by the way.
They're actually pre cut masking sets from Eduard. Here's the link www.eduard.com/eduard/masks/aircraft/1-48/bf-109g-camo-scheme-erla-1-48.html. Thank you and thanks for watching :)
Awesome. How many hours do you think it took? I love building this plane, ever since Airfix days.
Thank you. Typically they take around 40 hours, but I've never really timed one accurately. Some things take longer than expected and some less but it usualyl takes around 4 weeks for one of this detail and size
Is this the same eduard bf109g as in the black box royal edd? Or did they remake the kit? As still got my royal box to do...
I can't see one on the timeline in the black box from this kits variants but I know the main parts are shared between all the BF109 kits Eduard make.
Check scalemates and that has a great timeline of each kit and it's origins
www.scalemates.com/kits/eduard-82113-bf-109g-6-early-versions--1000648
Its landing gears had been shortened?
Great build champion!
I'm over in Australia and it doesn't matter much to me at all but just in case it's important... I noticed you blurred the "naughty stika" during the gloss coat for the tail but didn't for the completed build... just letting you know in case you originally did it to not run foul of some silly UA-cam law I'm not aware of.
Great build none the less, very entertaining to watch as always.
Thank you and yes I do know that they are blurred in footage but not in the images.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Strafgesetzbuch_section_86a. It's a little vague but does give some direction on the showing of symbols and insignia's like this. I know YT can ban videos containing these symbols if they see them as offensive, so making the effort to at least hide some gets around this. Since this video has taken me over 2 weeks to produce I didn't want to risk loosing all the views and project just because of a symbol that, truth be told, everyone can see through the pixels anyway.
@@TheInnerNerd wow, never thought I'd get a chance to talk to you. Just wanted to say your 1/72 Su-33 build, eurofighter and phantom were super inspirational to me. I found your videos just as I was getting back into modelling again and learnt so much from them. I even went out and bought the same Su-33 kit : )
@@n13320 Of course! I will always reply if you have a question or say something I can answer to other than a like. That's so good to hear! I'm so pleased when I hear this kind of feedback and I like to know the videos are both informing & inspiring people to get into/back into modelling. The kits you pointed out are my favourites too, the Phantom was so much fun and Sukhoi was a must for me too, an aircraft with such wow factor needed to be done! I hope you got on well with the SU-33 kit! It was my first and only from trumpeter but I found it a great kit, newly released when I did the video too. Another Flanker is needed sometime SOON.
If you have any questions or comments please feel free to place them on my videos. Also if you have any recomendations on subjects you'd like me to cover (particular aircraft or technique) please let me know and I will do my best to fit them into the future videos. This channel is about you!
The Inner Nerd
What is the brand of tweezers that you use and where are that available to buy?
These are Tamiya pointed tweezers. Of you Google them there will be many places that have them for sale
What did you spray on the fishing line?
It's CA Superglue activator/accelerator (basically moisture in an aerosol can) that activates the glue faster so it dries almost immediately. Handy for small parts with little to no contact area that need to be bonded quickly. Here is a link to the one I used
www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwiHu4-94P7fAhXBKFAKHeIZCpcQFjAAegQICRAB&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.amazon.co.uk%2FBond-Cyanoacrylate-Accelerator-Superglue-activator%2Fdp%2FB005H0X8OS&usg=AOvVaw0Ztq0lgCLXrqmH_j4PXaZp
Nice one! But I have two questions
1. How long does it take for oil paints to touch dry? I've heard it varies but what would be the normal drying time.
2. How many applications of Mr Mark Setter and Softer do you use? I tried using it but it was hard for it to conform onto the surface. So I ended up using a different solution. But I'd like to give it another go since I've seen people using it correctly.
Thanks
Thank you.
I normaly leave the oils between 30/40mins. They will be okay after 1 day too as oils are very slow at drying fully. I find Winsor & Newton and Abteilung 502 have a drying time of around 3 days if applied thinly like in this video.
I apply several coats of Softer to get the decal to form to shapes. First I use Setter to get the decal into position and then just use the Softer to conform the decal. Use a cotton bud and roll from the center of the decal outwards to remove the air beneath the decal and it will form better. Keep applying the Softer until the decal bexomes fragile and thin. Then leave it overnight in a warm place to set thoroughly.
Thats my process and hope it helps!
@@TheInnerNerd Thanks for the tips. I'll try them
hola , me podrias decir que pegamento usas para los fotograbados ? ( cinturones de seguridad)
Hi, can you tell me what glue do you use for photoengravings? ( seatbelts)
Hello. I use PVA glue and also superglue. Depends on placement and how solid the bond needs to be. For seatbelts I tend to use PVA but antennas and exterior parts I use superglue
Hola!! Dónde has conseguido las plantillas de máscaras para el camuflaje?? Me puedes enviar el link de la tienda online?? Gracias
Hi, this is the link to Eduards websote showing the product
www.eduard.com/eduard/bf-109g-camo-scheme-erla-1-48.html?listtype=search&searchparam=erla
Muchas gracias por su respuesta