In addition to all your great tips here, I like to find the optimal pressure, the lowest, to spray without causing any spattering. When I first started air brushing, 40 years ago, I would often spray at too high of pressure. This caused orange peel, spider webs, and lots of overspray. When I can spray around 15-16 psi, I find the application to be much more controlled.
Excellent video. I've been airbrushing for 50+ years and still find that builders don't thin down their paints enough ! Teaching yourself to build up color in multiple very thin coats and getting close is the key to a great finish as you said. It is sad to see a great build only to be ruined by hosing on thick paint in one pass. The most important tip of all is a super clean airbrush to start with and a lot of practice also !
Hosing as people call it only works with certain paints, Enamels comes to mind but those need to be also thinned with a Lacquer thinner not an enamel thinner (Old bodyshop man's tricks). You should have the color by coat 2 and if it's a car then it should have 5+ coats to allow for wet sanding without going to the primer or metal for the best smoothness in final polishing. More coats means more strength to final paint but they must be thin to not lose the detail. For military planes and such there's less worry and 2-3 coats is sufficient unless your paint is too thin then more coats are needed but your color will be off due to the thinners. It's a trade off and color lasers will prove this if it's hard to swallow.
Very useful tips indeed. If I may add one of my own that makes a considerable difference to airbrush performance, polish the needle occasionally! I use polishing wadding (Silvo brand) for the task and carefully polish the sharp end of the needle (first inch or so) rotating it rather than using a pulling motion. Upon receiving this tip I was a little sceptical, however I was proved wrong! Paint atomisation has been vastly improved through both of my airbrushes, one being a H&S Infinity CR Plus (.2mm), the other a Mr. Hobby PS-289 (.3mm). Try looking at the tip of your unpolished airbrush needle under high magnification, then compare that to a polished one!👍😎
Terrific tips and a great refresher for those who might have just 'forgotten' how to do it (me!). Awesome video, James so thanks for taking the time to share these.
Thank you! Really really helpful. I've been despairing of my poor airbrushing results, and have actually started to go back to brushes. Your tips have given me new hope!
Really great video. The point about 'never too much tinner' really hit home for me! This will really help with my inconsistencies with my air brushing, as I'm still learning my airbrush. I get those moments where suddenly too much paint comes through, so if it's thinner I can be slower and more controlled. Along with all those other great points!
Thanks Phillip. If you are using water based, like vallejo or ak 3rd gen then the little clogs are a pain. I dont get any with the laquers I normally use (mrp) but they aren't for everyone. A lot of us want instant results but taking your time with thinner controlled layers gives you the best results. Best of luck 🍺
Thank you for sharing your experience especially the distance, proper thinner and up close and perfecting cone spraying small distance and cones and diluted, I'll keep in mind while learning the techniques of AB. All day, I'm to words that teach me!
With a standart 60 to 40 ratio of thinning, what typical pressure do you use? And what diameter (mm) for the needle? I cant get this stunning results you show here. Thank you for the fantastic vid 👍
fantastic tips pal and i know i make the mistake of not putting enough thinners into my paints and suffer for it at times great video and excellent explanation on how to improve airbrushing
great video, are you also going to make a video where you illustrate interesting advenced techniques? One kind of tutorial I'd personally like to see is one that deals with saturation, and how to make different kinds of paints lighter while keeping a vivid, realistic colour.
Thanks James - I do find that I don’t always clean my airbrush as well as I should. I have been doing a lot of 16 scale so forgotten how long it’s been since using the airbrush. I have been using rattle cans mostly
@@lpjmodels Yep Andy’s hobby headquarters literally last night announced the M10 GMC 16 scale and a British Achilles too same scale. Done his Sherman and tiger is in progress both immense - well done takom on those
@@lpjmodels I have the das werk on order from jadlam they seem to have done the detail job it needs where trumpy just went for the standard here’s a 251 no detail nothing
Usually if I spray tamiya ( very rarely anyway) I head straight to Mr levelling thinner. I used the OG thinner to make it more accessible to the wider audience. 100% with you on using laquer thinner though.
The yellow cap thinner works great especially for flat paint because it dries faster. If you use a thinner with retarder it can come out satin/semi gloss. All depends on the finish you want.
Air pressure is a completely different kettle of fish. Its such a fluid concept. But as a rule, the lower you go, the closer you have to get to achieve a defined result as less pressure affects the atomisation of the paint to a degree. I used to spray at 20-30 using my needle apature as a control, even for micro work, now my compressor sits around 15 and never gets touched unless I need really misty wet coats where I turn it down a little.
I try not to stray to far from the model with any paint. When you see the green going down in the video with those overlapping layers, I try to do that with varnishes when possible.
Great tutorial, would like to add that when using Tamiya paint I find their lacquer as a thinner best. Helps eliminate tip dry on your needle. I use other brands of paint and find that straining my paint after thinning a good thing cuz it eliminates lumps, try it. We all can't start each paint job with newly purchased colors, $$. Shake, shake, and shake you still will find not all dissolves.
On my 3rd airbrush now, think its all down to not thinning properly, wish I'd seen a video like this 3 years ago, could have saved a few quid. Needless to say, got this airbrush cheapest one yet and its lasting ages now, also agree with the comment super clean brush.
Hi LPJ. I cannot get to grips with airbrush. I tried Ammo Olive Drab today for my hellcat and ruined it. What is the easiest paint to airbrush with in your opinion? I just like building armour, nothing complicated
Ammo is a bit poor in my opinion. For armour, I would use Tamiya, AK Real Color or MRP. The last 2 are laquers and have a stronger smell, but they spray a lot better than the mig ammo or vallejo types of paints. Use mr levelling thinner for thinning it. (you can also use it to thin tamiya) They spray smoother, are more durable and sand well, also you don't usually need to clear with them if you don't want because they are fairly inert. I hope that helps. Just remember, all paints have a learning curve and you'll have to spend a little time playing till you get it just right.
Thank you . I went out and bought some Tamiya OD and thinner and have filled the jar to the top as I too have been told that trick. I had to soak the tank in metalhated spirit and clean everything off and reprime. Time to try again. I love this hobby but I just can't get to grips with it
@@spencergregory8049 I would thin it further to be honest. The method is good for blasting it on though a 0.5 but you'll likely end up with texture, have an experiment!
@@lpjmodels Okay. Thank you. I have. Neo Iwata airbrush and a Neo mini compressor. Nothing fancy. I like armour model making as you can always cover up mistakes easily 😁
Thank you LPJ. You are one of the best on here at this! One more question. Can you use VMS acrylic thinner on Tamiya acrylics do you know? I have some here so if I need to thin it more could I use that do you think?
@@christianibarbia9380 pressure is really subjective. Some people like 20 psi some people like 8 psi so I leave that for the viewer. It also depends on your paint, and the effect you want
What is your opinion on using IPA (isopropyl alcohol) as a paint thinner for Tamiya paints? I always use IPA as a thinner for Tamiya, but just wondering if that is the best option and if that gives me the best results? I’m fairly new at using an airbrush so was just curious. Thanks and great video. I just subscribed to your channel.
Thankyou ! My go to thinner if using tamiya is Mr levelling thinner. The original tamiya thinner is a mix of alcohol, water and a little retarder. For my liking. Pure IPA flashes off too quickly. But if it works for you keep using it !
tamiya/mr hobby paints have the tendency to give a rough sand papery texture when you are spraying too far and wide. I use an old t shirt to buff off the rough texture!
There isn't a solid answer. Usually stop when you have reached the coverage you want, whether that is a solid shade or enough for any FX to show through
I think it's such a fluid concept depending on your paint, ratios, experience and airbrush that it's not something I want to advise on. Then you have humidity, altitude and all the factors that affect air and pressure too ! I set mine about 15ish psi and never change it unless I need to drop down to 12 ish for ultra fine work, some people swap pressures all the time depending on what paint they use. I let my trigger discipline regulate most things
@@michal1242 the only reason I got a spurt was I was a bit enthusiastic with the trigger. Its been a while since I sprayed tamiya paints, and all paints have little quirks to get used to. Once practiced, it shouldn't happen :).
do never never thinning your jarr ! you will be angry afhter you starting know you loosing the wole jarr if it is to thinned you cant mak it tiker witout a new jar. just thinn wat you use. but the tipps to thinn it the rigth way is nice .
You should have begun with the Needle size and airbrush to use for various tasks. 1> H&S Infinity is never nor should it be used for base coating and base painting, it's a detail airbrush and should be used for that purpose, it was not designed for large area painting with it's tiny needles. 2> .3 is the smallest needle to use for priming and base coating, .5 is much better and will give you better results as it's designed for those tasks. 3> Over thinning paints is never a good idea and if you must thin Tamiya paint that much the needle you are using for that paint is too small, back to 1 & 2. If you over thin paint you lose color, sheen and consistency, again if you are thinning more than 60% you are using the wrong paint for your needle or the wrong needle for your paint (There IS A REASON they make different sizes). 4> Paint should go on smooth with no light and dark separator lines and multiple coats is for strength not for color, the color should there by the 2nd coat and if you plan on wet sanding for smoothness and later shine then you'll want 5+ coats (Mostly car models). 5> If you get a consistent "Chalky" look when using Tamiya paints you'll want to strain your paint after thinning through a very fine screen or mesh. Make sure you mix thoroughly before straining that Tamiya paint is a real job to mix properly.
Been airbrushing for 35 years at least. I have watched you airbrushing many times and I'm sorry but I cringe nearly every time. All I see most of the time is you splattering almost dry paint onto your models. Crank up that air pressure man! 😢 I enjoy your videos and want to see you do well but I think a bit more practice airbrushing couldn't do any harm.
Sorry you feel that way. I have been guilty of underthinning in the past, I think we all have and none of us are perfect. Also, don't forget the camera picks up things that would pass even the most discerning observer in person.
@@lpjmodels no worries, I gave you a quick mention Model Minutes discord too... ordered the same airbrush as you to make my life easier (it's a sort of wedding present I suppose!)
@Piter_Play What a disrespectful comment!! I would bet that you don’t know what a ‘real modeller’ is. Every model builder uses the skills that he has, and if the results are satisfactory to the modeller, that is all that matters. An airbrush is a great tool once you attain the skills needed for good results, but if you fail to attain those skills, then a brush can be just as good. But that doesn’t mean that someone who uses only a brush to paint his models, is more skilled than someone who uses an airbrush to achieve good results.
In addition to all your great tips here, I like to find the optimal pressure, the lowest, to spray without causing any spattering. When I first started air brushing, 40 years ago, I would often spray at too high of pressure. This caused orange peel, spider webs, and lots of overspray. When I can spray around 15-16 psi, I find the application to be much more controlled.
Thanks for sharing, great tip. My pressure is very fluid, I'm always on the dial to get the best from my airbrush.
Excellent video. I've been airbrushing for 50+ years and still find that builders don't thin down their paints enough ! Teaching yourself to build up color in multiple very thin coats and getting close is the key to a great finish as you said. It is sad to see a great build only to be ruined by hosing on thick paint in one pass. The most important tip of all is a super clean airbrush to start with and a lot of practice also !
Cleaning is so important I agree. Thanks for the kind words !
@@lpjmodelswish i could airbrush but just dont have the facility to use mine.
Hosing as people call it only works with certain paints, Enamels comes to mind but those need to be also thinned with a Lacquer thinner not an enamel thinner (Old bodyshop man's tricks). You should have the color by coat 2 and if it's a car then it should have 5+ coats to allow for wet sanding without going to the primer or metal for the best smoothness in final polishing. More coats means more strength to final paint but they must be thin to not lose the detail. For military planes and such there's less worry and 2-3 coats is sufficient unless your paint is too thin then more coats are needed but your color will be off due to the thinners. It's a trade off and color lasers will prove this if it's hard to swallow.
Very useful tips indeed. If I may add one of my own that makes a considerable difference to airbrush performance, polish the needle occasionally! I use polishing wadding (Silvo brand) for the task and carefully polish the sharp end of the needle (first inch or so) rotating it rather than using a pulling motion. Upon receiving this tip I was a little sceptical, however I was proved wrong! Paint atomisation has been vastly improved through both of my airbrushes, one being a H&S Infinity CR Plus (.2mm), the other a Mr. Hobby PS-289 (.3mm). Try looking at the tip of your unpolished airbrush needle under high magnification, then compare that to a polished one!👍😎
Flitz is a wonder weapon for needle polishing and invest in a needle restore/resharpening tool it will save you hundreds.
Terrific tips and a great refresher for those who might have just 'forgotten' how to do it (me!). Awesome video, James so thanks for taking the time to share these.
Thanks Robbo ! I'm heartened that this tutorial went so well. May have to do a few more
Brilliant! Just the video I needed! 👍
Excellent advice, thank you for this vid, part 2 please?
What to put In a part 2 ? I'll have a think
Thank you! Really really helpful. I've been despairing of my poor airbrushing results, and have actually started to go back to brushes. Your tips have given me new hope!
Glad I could help! Best of luck !
Lots of useful information there. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Really great video. The point about 'never too much tinner' really hit home for me! This will really help with my inconsistencies with my air brushing, as I'm still learning my airbrush. I get those moments where suddenly too much paint comes through, so if it's thinner I can be slower and more controlled. Along with all those other great points!
Thanks Phillip. If you are using water based, like vallejo or ak 3rd gen then the little clogs are a pain. I dont get any with the laquers I normally use (mrp) but they aren't for everyone. A lot of us want instant results but taking your time with thinner controlled layers gives you the best results. Best of luck 🍺
Thank you for sharing your experience especially the distance, proper thinner and up close and perfecting cone spraying small distance and cones and diluted, I'll keep in mind while learning the techniques of AB. All day, I'm to words that teach me!
Best of luck !
Great tutorial. Thanks for sharing!
Glad it was helpful!
With a standart 60 to 40 ratio of thinning, what typical pressure do you use? And what diameter (mm) for the needle? I cant get this stunning results you show here. Thank you for the fantastic vid 👍
0.15 needle. Pressure is always fluid, sometimes you need more sometimes less. Start at 15 and adjust to taste. Also depends on the paint.
Superb! I use 0.2. I guess, more practice on my side is needed. Thanks a lot and keep those tips coming. @@lpjmodels
Thank you so much just what I needed to know, clear and simple.
Always learning something new ☺️
Thanks Matt hope it was of some use 👍 😀
Once again, fantastic video and great tips
Thanks a lot 😀
Thank you for these tips for an airbrush beginner like me 🤗
You are very welcome !
fantastic tips pal and i know i make the mistake of not putting enough thinners into my paints and suffer for it at times
great video and excellent explanation on how to improve airbrushing
Thanks for taking a look mate !
Thanks James, those tips really help a lot. 🙂
Thanks Sera ! 🍻
Thanks for these quick 3 tips on airbrushing paints. I am starting with ICM acrylic paints soon so these tips come in handy ✨👍✨
Glad it was helpful!
Very helpful video even for experienced modelers - thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Great video. What size needle is recommended for these small details ?
As always, very educational.
Thanks Cliff !
Cleaning up after that thumbnail must have been fun 😂
great video, are you also going to make a video where you illustrate interesting advenced techniques?
One kind of tutorial I'd personally like to see is one that deals with saturation, and how to make different kinds of paints lighter while keeping a vivid, realistic colour.
Thankyou !I'll have to have a think on how I would approach the subject.
Thanks James - I do find that I don’t always clean my airbrush as well as I should.
I have been doing a lot of 16 scale so forgotten how long it’s been since using the airbrush. I have been using rattle cans mostly
Ooh 1/16, such a cool scale. If only I had more space ! Cleaning is so important too 100%
@@lpjmodels Yep Andy’s hobby headquarters literally last night announced the M10 GMC 16 scale and a British Achilles too same scale.
Done his Sherman and tiger is in progress both immense - well done takom on those
@@jamescharlton924 I saw those they look awesome ! Might have room for the 251
@@lpjmodels I have the das werk on order from jadlam they seem to have done the detail job it needs where trumpy just went for the standard here’s a 251 no detail nothing
Thanks, I definitely found the, "don't require thinning " paints need thinning.
Thanks Wade! Yes they usually do unless you're using a 0.3 or bigger at high pressure 🤔
@lpjmodels Yes, right now I have a cheaper end airbrush. Saving up for a next level.
Use Tamiya Lacquer Thinner (yellow cap) with Tamiya paint and it lays down even better!
Usually if I spray tamiya ( very rarely anyway) I head straight to Mr levelling thinner. I used the OG thinner to make it more accessible to the wider audience. 100% with you on using laquer thinner though.
The yellow cap thinner works great especially for flat paint because it dries faster. If you use a thinner with retarder it can come out satin/semi gloss. All depends on the finish you want.
@@johnathan133 if it comes out semi gloss then perfect for going straight to decals !
Really useful James, I'm getting back into model building again after a house move and a wedding, so will try these tips this afternoon. Cheers!
Thanks Simon !
Nice and helpful 👍. One thing I was curious about was the effect of air pressure on the result?
Air pressure is a completely different kettle of fish. Its such a fluid concept. But as a rule, the lower you go, the closer you have to get to achieve a defined result as less pressure affects the atomisation of the paint to a degree. I used to spray at 20-30 using my needle apature as a control, even for micro work, now my compressor sits around 15 and never gets touched unless I need really misty wet coats where I turn it down a little.
Thanks for the amazing tutorial!
Does this cm rule you use works the same with varnishes?
I try not to stray to far from the model with any paint. When you see the green going down in the video with those overlapping layers, I try to do that with varnishes when possible.
Thanks for the fast reapply
Keep going the amazing work!!
Great tutorial, would like to add that when using Tamiya paint I find their lacquer as a thinner best. Helps eliminate tip dry on your needle. I use other brands of paint and find that straining my paint after thinning a good thing cuz it eliminates lumps, try it. We all can't start each paint job with newly purchased colors, $$. Shake, shake, and shake you still will find not all dissolves.
Great tips James, thanks for sharing.
Thanks John !
Thanks for this I’ve been going back to brush painting but need to get back thinning my Tamiya more as you recommend 😎👌☕️
Glad I could help !
Thinning is especially vital on tissue covered rubber free flight scale where weight saving is essential.
Great advice. Thank you.
You're welcome !
Useful tips. Thanks James.
My pleasure!
Tamiya is pretty straightforward paint to use, but I have problems mottling right with water based acrylics like AK 3rd gen and Mig. Any tips there?
It's is. I avoid spraying vallejo. Mig . Ak water based exactly for those reasons. I dont want to fight the paint.
Great video
Would have liked some air pressure advice added too...
Air pressure is a very fluid thing. I dont set it and go, different kettle of fish !
Useful tips, thanks mate 👍
No problem mate !
Great video dude! Very useful and well conveyed!
Thanks mate !
On my 3rd airbrush now, think its all down to not thinning properly, wish I'd seen a video like this 3 years ago, could have saved a few quid. Needless to say, got this airbrush cheapest one yet and its lasting ages now, also agree with the comment super clean brush.
Thanks Derek 🍻 hope it helps some!
Good stuff Mate, thank you ! 👍
My pleasure!
Hi LPJ. I cannot get to grips with airbrush. I tried Ammo Olive Drab today for my hellcat and ruined it. What is the easiest paint to airbrush with in your opinion? I just like building armour, nothing complicated
Ammo is a bit poor in my opinion. For armour, I would use Tamiya, AK Real Color or MRP. The last 2 are laquers and have a stronger smell, but they spray a lot better than the mig ammo or vallejo types of paints. Use mr levelling thinner for thinning it. (you can also use it to thin tamiya)
They spray smoother, are more durable and sand well, also you don't usually need to clear with them if you don't want because they are fairly inert.
I hope that helps.
Just remember, all paints have a learning curve and you'll have to spend a little time playing till you get it just right.
Thank you . I went out and bought some Tamiya OD and thinner and have filled the jar to the top as I too have been told that trick. I had to soak the tank in metalhated spirit and clean everything off and reprime. Time to try again. I love this hobby but I just can't get to grips with it
@@spencergregory8049 I would thin it further to be honest. The method is good for blasting it on though a 0.5 but you'll likely end up with texture, have an experiment!
@@lpjmodels Okay. Thank you. I have. Neo Iwata airbrush and a Neo mini compressor. Nothing fancy. I like armour model making as you can always cover up mistakes easily 😁
Thank you LPJ. You are one of the best on here at this! One more question. Can you use VMS acrylic thinner on Tamiya acrylics do you know? I have some here so if I need to thin it more could I use that do you think?
Great video but my problems start when I leave the lacquer paints and use the acrylic paints.
There is more of a nack for water based. I love my laquers. I only use water based if I'm in a spot and don't have the colour to hand.
Useful tip thanks
Happy to help
Should you thinn primer?
Really cool tutorial.
Thanks a lot 😀
Hi !!! very interesting video, and tips.... but did not you forget to talk a bit about the settings of the airbrush as well as the compressor ? 😉
@@christianibarbia9380 pressure is really subjective. Some people like 20 psi some people like 8 psi so I leave that for the viewer. It also depends on your paint, and the effect you want
@@lpjmodels many thanks for your reply... I really appreciated the effect on your ME 109 model
Thank you for this video, it was very insightfull.
Glad it was helpful!
Nice one James... I'd love a hints and tips video on achieving a smooth airbrush finish with whites and yellows... just saying!
Great suggestion! What fixed those for me was using MRP. High pigmentation but laquers aren't for everyone.
What is your opinion on using IPA (isopropyl alcohol) as a paint thinner for Tamiya paints? I always use IPA as a thinner for Tamiya, but just wondering if that is the best option and if that gives me the best results? I’m fairly new at using an airbrush so was just curious. Thanks and great video. I just subscribed to your channel.
Thankyou ! My go to thinner if using tamiya is Mr levelling thinner. The original tamiya thinner is a mix of alcohol, water and a little retarder. For my liking. Pure IPA flashes off too quickly. But if it works for you keep using it !
Nice video. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
Hello. What kind of pressure do you use for paints thinned to 70%?
Usually around 15-20 but the trigger does a lot of the work in limiting the spray, if I'm honest I set it and forget it.
tamiya/mr hobby paints have the tendency to give a rough sand papery texture when you are spraying too far and wide. I use an old t shirt to buff off the rough texture!
It's one of the reasons why I get in close.
How much layers I should add when I paint aircraft ? 3 or 4 ?
There isn't a solid answer. Usually stop when you have reached the coverage you want, whether that is a solid shade or enough for any FX to show through
VERY USEFULL!!!! Thanks a lot!!!
Great tips sir thank you
Thanks mate ! 😀
Top tips.
My first effort 30 years ago turned out OK but that was more luck than skill 😉
Thanks Bas ! I think there's always luck involved with airbrushing :p
Thank you👍
You're welcome 👍
So much nicer listening to someone just talking about the subjuct, not filling it out with detritus...
Great video mate, I'm sure most of us are guilty of all three of these!
It's easily done !
Out of curiosity what pressure are you spraying with
My pressure isn't static. Sometimes you need more sometimes you need less. I band from 8-20 depending on what paint and effect I need
THK professeur 😉👍
Good tips but I didn't hear you talk about air pressure.
I think it's such a fluid concept depending on your paint, ratios, experience and airbrush that it's not something I want to advise on.
Then you have humidity, altitude and all the factors that affect air and pressure too !
I set mine about 15ish psi and never change it unless I need to drop down to 12 ish for ultra fine work, some people swap pressures all the time depending on what paint they use. I let my trigger discipline regulate most things
....was that a WNW kit I spied?
Not on the bench atm no . Need to build up to a wnw :p
👍👍👍
Now I am sure I do not thin enough. 60% ??? Wow.
It takes a little to get used to but it's definately worth trying.
@@lpjmodels So at the start it will seems to be to much thin?
@@michal1242 the only reason I got a spurt was I was a bit enthusiastic with the trigger. Its been a while since I sprayed tamiya paints, and all paints have little quirks to get used to. Once practiced, it shouldn't happen :).
do never never thinning your jarr ! you will be angry afhter you starting know you loosing the wole jarr if it is to thinned you cant mak it tiker witout a new jar. just thinn wat you use. but the tipps to thinn it the rigth way is nice .
@zitrone2779 thankyou ! Also when you thin the jar to the top its not enough !
I prefer a thicker coats as I feel how the pigments works better like that like 50/50
The pigments work the same thin or thick. They are microscopic after all.
I like playing model too.
Spray enamels??
"You Must thin your paint to the consistency of milk" 😁
Semi skimmed!
😁
shaken, not stirred!
That thumbnail makes me cry of “Why would you do that!?”
You should have begun with the Needle size and airbrush to use for various tasks.
1> H&S Infinity is never nor should it be used for base coating and base painting, it's a detail airbrush and should be used for that purpose, it was not designed for large area painting with it's tiny needles.
2> .3 is the smallest needle to use for priming and base coating, .5 is much better and will give you better results as it's designed for those tasks.
3> Over thinning paints is never a good idea and if you must thin Tamiya paint that much the needle you are using for that paint is too small, back to 1 & 2. If you over thin paint you lose color, sheen and consistency, again if you are thinning more than 60% you are using the wrong paint for your needle or the wrong needle for your paint (There IS A REASON they make different sizes).
4> Paint should go on smooth with no light and dark separator lines and multiple coats is for strength not for color, the color should there by the 2nd coat and if you plan on wet sanding for smoothness and later shine then you'll want 5+ coats (Mostly car models).
5> If you get a consistent "Chalky" look when using Tamiya paints you'll want to strain your paint after thinning through a very fine screen or mesh. Make sure you mix thoroughly before straining that Tamiya paint is a real job to mix properly.
Your bitrate is far too low to show the comparisons.
Thank youtube for that. I use davinci resolve and render to 4k with max bitrate.
@@lpjmodels understandable :(
Have a good day
@@lightknightgames it's a shame it gets so squashed. :(
Been airbrushing for 35 years at least. I have watched you airbrushing many times and I'm sorry but I cringe nearly every time. All I see most of the time is you splattering almost dry paint onto your models. Crank up that air pressure man! 😢 I enjoy your videos and want to see you do well but I think a bit more practice airbrushing couldn't do any harm.
The paint looks wet enough to me - that's why it shines until it dries, and one of the three top tips was to use more thinner, ie wetter paint. Ahem.
Sorry you feel that way. I have been guilty of underthinning in the past, I think we all have and none of us are perfect.
Also, don't forget the camera picks up things that would pass even the most discerning observer in person.
Thanks Simon !
@@lpjmodels no worries, I gave you a quick mention Model Minutes discord too... ordered the same airbrush as you to make my life easier (it's a sort of wedding present I suppose!)
Real modelers paint with brushes
Real modellers use any tool! 😂
Bullshit
I guess I'm also an assembler, right ?
@Piter_Play
What a disrespectful comment!!
I would bet that you don’t know what a ‘real modeller’ is. Every model builder uses the skills that he has, and if the results are satisfactory to the modeller, that is all that matters. An airbrush is a great tool once you attain the skills needed for good results, but if you fail to attain those skills, then a brush can be just as good. But that doesn’t mean that someone who uses only a brush to paint his models, is more skilled than someone who uses an airbrush to achieve good results.
@@garylawless3608 I would bet that you don’t know what SARCASM is. Lighten the fuck up.
👏👏👏👍👍
thanks!