How to Weld 7018 welding rod tips and tricks.
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- I'm going to show you tips and tricks about weld 7018 welding rods. I talk about everything I can think of. Some common problems and the best way to fix them. what to do when you have porosity. The things that cause porosity. And how to get it out when you do get it. And I also briefly cover why a rod heater is not necessary.
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How to know if your welding rods are good or bad period what to do if they don't perform the way you want them to. How to manipulate the puddle and make money welding with chris.
#7018
#6010
#pipewelding
#7018welding
#pipeline
#weld
Disclaimer: I am not a welding instructor, personal trainer, nutritionist or financial advisor. I’m a welder with life experience that aims to bring value to your life!
Biggest thing about welding is you have to put your time in! There isn't one welder that knows it all because there is so many scenarios, alloys, so many processes, you name it! I've learned alot already from Taylor Welding from just a few videos, and i have been welding close to thirty years.
So true. I’ve learned from so many different welders. I couldn’t count them all. Thanks for the comment. I appreciate you.
Best way to put it man. I’m my high school welding class I excel way above everyone because I e had hundreds more hours of practice and this is what I’ve been telling them all to to pin to keep their spirits up. Very little people start out with good welds it’s a hard ass skill to learn and master💯
So true, I try telling other new students that , every welder is different and what works for you might not work for someone else and no one knows everything it takes a lifetime of welding to even think of being a master at it even someone that has been welding 30 years can learn something , I love welding because of this
GcDj_
Beginner welder here, you've taught me more about the 7018 rod than any other of these videos that i've watched and i just wanna say thank you for doing that
You’re welcome Jason! Thank you for watching and commenting
You’re welcome Jaxon! Thank you for watching and commenting
Same here. I can always lay a nice bead with 7014 and love it. Never had a weld break. My nice J.D. 310c backhoe has developed cracks of the factory welds where stabilizers attach to backhoe main frame. My plan is to take the backhoe main frame off so I can lay welds horizontal. Then grind out cracked welds and reweld with 7018 and welding NOS heavy truck frame over welds for added strength. The service manual only says to use 7018 rod with base metal heated to 100* F. Pretty sure I'll do some praticing first. I think I can trust Taylor and should run 6010 on first pass. I sort of think spending $200 welding myself vs. buying a used frame for $2,000+ is worth a try for use on the farm. Thanks for the great video and info.
@@jefffrayer8238 that’s what I would do
No way you're a pipe welder .... you're too helpful and not arrogant enough 😂
Lol!
That's funny man...I've been on job...production side...he would fit a separator....ultrafab...etc...wasn't no moving to hook up...build all at one time on side of location...Heck of a good guy...
Although this video is a year old I wanted to make a quick comment. I’m a recent subscriber and just happened to come across your channel. I’ve been a pipe welder for 23 years, certified 6G sched 80. Our procedure is always 6010 root with 7018 fill and cap. I have to say…your channel is so full of tips and tricks that one saying comes to mind…”you can teach an old dog new tricks!” 😂 Keep up the great videos so that new and old welders alike that can never learn enough can keep on learning!
Thanks brother! I love to see people like you that have been in the field
For decades in the comment section. I really appreciate the affirmation. thank you so much.
I try to learn something from everybody I meet
up hill? how did you take a box of rods to job site?in a heater or if started raining trying to get this last weld done. rods getting wet what do i do 6010 6 inch up hill cap with 7018 how i got my papers
This is my first week of Tulsa Welding School. We did 5 hours of stick welding today and I kept getting stuck when starting the weld, the instructor kept saying to strike like a match but I was still having the issues. I appreciate the helpful videos!
Hi Trippy - I'm on week 2 of self-teaching but I nearly threw in the towel on day 3 because the bloody thing would not strike up (3/32 6013s), maybe 1 in 10 if I got lucky. Then a bunch of comments on one beginner video all suggested using a piece of scrap to strike the new rod, to heat it up. I did it the very next day and it blew my mind! Straight in from the tack weld every time, no misfires or sticks.
I appreciate that you are at TWS, but the only logical reason against this method, I can see, is that in the wild you probably won't have the luxury of being able to do this. However I can say that having that strike-up scrap piece has enabled me to relax and do a lazy but purposeful strike and I'm actually getting a lot of first strikes on it, with new rods. Just thought I'd inject that in here mate. I'm here because I've sussed that 6013s are hard work, and that 7018s are the way to go - I have only heard praise from the "old-timers". A kilo arrived today mail order and I'll be burning them up over the next few days. If I can make them work I'll stick with them and treat myself to some 6010s and 11s.
That’s what I remember about a6010 rod and a 7018 rod from welding school. I was only 15, and it was hard for me to get into the school because of how young I was, but my parents knew the instructor, Jack Stone, and after a couple of weeks of persistent inquiries, I was accepted. Sooner trade school in Oklahoma City on Main and Western. I had to make it through gas welding before I could move onto arc welding, and it took me a week to lay a good weld, but I had a good instructor. Flat welding with a 6010 rod was not so difficult doing beads on a 3x5 metal plate before moving on to vertical welding with a 7018 rod.
I never finished from there; I had a piece of hot slag get in my right eye from behind my safety glasses, and I had a patch on my eye for a week or something and had to do these eye drops every day. The next phase of the class would have been welding thicker metal like 3/4” thick or more and having the welds examined by X-ray.
A lot of companies sent their welders here for training and etc. I wish my dad had pressured me to go back. He was in it for a while and dropped out not feeling like he had the nack for it. I was actually doing pretty good until I was discouraged by the injury, but the vertical welding was probably the hardest part, and I had only been at it a couple of days when I was injured.
I spent most of my life in construction and the last 12 in the electrical work, 6 of it as a commercial electrician.
Welding still interests me, though I don’t know if I will ever abandon my career as an electrician for welding but I think it’s good knowledge to have!
Thanks for sharing the knowledge!
That's a bummer dude. going Through my old comments I'm gonna run across this. A tough lick at 15.
@@TaylorWelding yeah, for sure! It would have been a great career! Definitely would have paid better that a construction laborer!
As a welding inspector (API and CWI) and a beginner back yard welder I really appreciate this video. Thanks buddy!
Absolutely agree with you on those 7018's ....they don't need be in a rod oven
Another fantastic, encouraging welding video. Hardest thing to do was to convince my students that they could do it and to take a risk and try side hustle work on weekends. You do a great job of instilling confidence in your viewers that it's ok to practice a weld till your proficient and then take the risk of making money at it.
only 3 minutes in and I can instantly say that if I had an instructor like you I'd have learn a heck of a whole lot more that's for sure, I could barely learn how to hold the dang welder!
Everybody told me to start with 6010. It was the absolutely worst advice I was given. I was given a few 7018s and welding became fun. By comparison 6010s are temperamental, hard to start and almost convinced me to sell my welder and buy beer. You are right about them not needing an oven for most situations.
Joe: Don’t give up on 6010. Practice on them. Once you discover what there about you’ll appreciate what 6010 is for. If your only looking for pretty beads to start with, forget 6010 and 6011 rods.
@@LynnHarris18 I appreciate the advice. I haven't thrown or given them away. It's cold enough to appreciate the warmth that running beads give give off.
I long arc on start,let the rod warm up and then dive in.
I had my 7018 welds break on a 4 wheeler trailer because they were only surface welds, I then went to 6010, and now that’s all I run. Those broken welds were super discouraging for me. I was told if I need to weld anything it 6010 was the do everything rod. I ve never had a 6010 weld break. That was years ago, and it’s all I run around my farm.
Depends on the climate your in, if the flux gets mosture in it it will effect the way the 7018 runs and will cause porosity in starts, rod ovens are a nessety in Northern climates where humidity is a huge factor in welding. Keep up the great content..(Not a cwi)
Thanks for the info!
Great video! Thank you for helping to dispell the 7018 rod oven myth.
You bet!
Man some people I know just don't care about the mechanical advantage of 7018 and want to put 60 rod on load bearing joints. Preach it Taylor welding
Thanks Jim 7018 ia a bad mamma JAMA . As u well know. Thanks for the comment brother
You are an 😇 Angel 😇 from the Welding Gods!!!! I just started school about 3 weeks ago and we're of course starting w 7018. I'm working on my horizontal now 😳😨😳 and ooowweeee it's getting hard but I'm gonna keep at it. U just filled my head with soooo much knowledge sir! I appreciate u so much! Keep doing ur thang sir! Ur amazing!
Thank you. If you have any questions, let me know. I remember how discouraging horizontal and vertical 7018 were at first.
@@TaylorWelding it definitely can be discouraging but I just gotta get comfortable and keep running em to get it down. I've came a long way from my first few welds. I even welded a few where the slag lifted right up like a piece of bacon lol🥓 Thanks again for all the knowledge. U are appreciated 👍
Great video! Love your style. Was burning a few rods of 7018 tonight, I'm getting better but there's a lot to learn. Thanks
Thank you for watching. Let me know if you have any questions.
Good video the 7018 is a great rod I always keep some in California you don't really need a rod oven the Sun is so damn hot I open the rod holder and leave them in the hot sun or just take my little propane torch to them and go on welding it works for me always
I'm glad to hear you say that about rod ovens because a fellow just gave me a big handful of 1/8th 7018 that has some rust on the part that the rod holder clamps to. I was wondering if it was any good. I don't have a rod oven and didn't think my wife would appreciate me putting a bunch of welding rods in the kitchen oven for a few hours. I enjoyed this video a lot. Thanks!
If you want to experiment with rod heating, you might be able to fit a handful of them in a toaster oven
Yep,works great.
I learned to weld 6010 and 7018 in prison for a DUI and beating up cops 9 years ago just getting back in it and the boss has 6011 with 7018 and I can tell there is a difference its all structural welding building a saw mill here in Oklahoma every detail you mention is not only useful but necessary to give the work expected we have to consistently make ourselves more proficient and valuable brother
Good video. 7018 is a nice rod. My favorite stick rod also.
7018 is a tough mother
Man I've ran so many 7018. It's mostly structural, like your background. I've had the itch to learn 6010 5p and pipe for a while now.
My man you are the funniest welder on UA-cam I love your videos.
I appreciate that
I'm a beginner. I started with a flux core welder and decided I needed to learn stick and I'm really wishing I had gone with learning stick welding first. I'm having a hard time keeping a consistent arc, or making a nice looking weld. In my restarts I'm having a super hard time with my electrode sticking. This is with some old 7018. Old as on at least 4yrs . Unknown past that. I ran some 6011 and had considerably less problem with restarts. But weld appearance was even worse and consistentcy much worse.
Just ran across ur channel and liked and subbed. I’m a newbie and have picked up MiG pretty decent, and starting on sticks. Bought 6013-3/32 & 1/8, also 7018 in the same. Turned up hot start and ran a few, but harder than MiG. When a teen and working in body shop, had old tombstone and gas torch’s with coat hangers as filler rods. Talk about warping panels, you had to be careful. Anyway, like your channel and will hang out in your shop and try to pick up some stick tips. Have a blessed day. Kentucky
Silver and the bahamas... sounds good. Thanks for the content. 👍
Agree with you 100% on 7018 I love them who don.t
I run a lot of 7018 and at times you can get porosity even from the metal you are welding on I have had fits like that already🙄
Bed frame steel is fizzy crap.
Such a great video.
Still learn so much from you, you sir are the shit 💪
as always, great video 👍👍
Thanks again!
I know what you talking about hang to the side it also helps the undercut , remember clean those sides where Slag like to hide. Keep welding 😅
I’ve never heard that one
What is the trick to putting a slick cap with 7018 1/8th on pipe? I seem to always get undercut from moving too fast, or either get a gouge/grape for moving too slow on the dead man’s corner when capping the bottom. So about 7- 9 o’clock on the pipe
Practice/
I know one of my biggest flaws with vertical welds and 7018 was not hanging at the sides long enough or the extreme of too long also. I had that groove on the edges of the weld. Last time I mentioned that someone made sure to let me know the technical term for it lol
I think, after listening to you though, I just wasn’t hanging out at the sides long enough and was spending too much time in the middle.
Am I thinking of it correctly? Thanks again for the video!
Talking about the hesitate I was able to run a nice looking weave bead with a 7018. I would hold 3 seconds on each side. Felt like it took forever to cover any ground but when that slag would fall off just by blowing on it pretty much made it all worth it.
Great video thanks!!
Glad you liked it!
Excellent information.
Thank you sir, have a blessed day América
Thanks for the information I appreciate it
1780 stick always my go to, trying to find out the name and year of my favorite old machine shaped like a torpedo and had a sound nearly break your eardrums like a turbo but setting and watch slag lift right behind bead.
Smooth and almost weld itself.
Reach out if you can any information.
Love to have one.
It is probably a transformer 250 amp Lincoln electric
I have an AC stick welder, and usually use 6011 or 6013, both 1/8". Have gotten along with them, but tried some 7018AC 1/8", horizontal, on 1/2" steel, at 120 amps. It was terrible. Couldn't hold an arc. Went back to 6011/6013 to finish. What's your opinion of 7018AC rods? After watching this, I would try 3/32, if the AC rods are worth using vs 6011/13.
Not a pipeliner or fabricator here, mostly repairs to machinery. Thanks.
Thanks for watching
I just started welding again after 30 years and bought myself a cheaper welder. 6013's runs great on it so figured I would grabbed myself some 7018's. What's the best settings to run it? My machine is an ARC 200. Please let me know, that would be awesome, thanks.
7018 uphill/vertical is giving me a run for my money, could u do a vid of multi pass 3F T-joint, hot,fill,& cap
When I figure out how to film a The puddle I will
Great talk good info.
Great video sir!!
Thanks Craig! I’m glad you like it. And thank you for going the extra mile and making a comment
What kind of welding machine do you have
yup the rod oven thing yup you can get some real cranky inspectors about that had one threatin to cut out all my welds cause some one had unplugged my oven
😆 that's funny. And so dumb
@@TaylorWelding the pain is real 🤣🤣🤣
Awesome video
6013 / 7018 any good ?
Chris thanks for another great vid. I’m a hobby welder that’s retired who welds quit a bit. 7018 restarts are a pain!
Any thoughts?
Yes I've touched on that a little bit. I'll make you a video tue
7014
Start it,long arc a bit ,choke up and weld.
As soon as you snap out give the rod an aggressive flick. That gets rid of the little slag ball that's about to freeze on the end of the electrode.
Then tap it on the floor or on a hard, ungrounded object to knock back the flux a bit so you expose the rod.
After that you should be able to restart no problem, just be extra sure to strike the arc like you're lighting a match instead of tapping it and it shouldn't stick.
Porosity shouldn't be much of an issue either if you follow those steps.
What kinda fancy shirt / jacket is that?
I’d like to order one!
Martin brothers welding shirt with a vent .out of Oklahoma
@@TaylorWelding I’ll have to check them out! Thanks brotha!
Only thing s rod oven is good for is reviving rods that have gotten a little bit a moisture to them. It can for sure dry them back out and make them weldable again. At least if they are not too far gone anyway if they have too much moisture their trash toss em.
And another thing to check especially the last 5-10 years is cheap steel from China... There's a LOT of that stuff floating around and not only will welds get porosity for no real good reason no matter what you do but, the stuff can be so brittle you cant even put it in a press break and make a 90 bend without the whole backside of the bend blowing out. Haven't see it in pipe though but, ive seen a ton of plate steel from china that is just complete garbage.
We don’t use any fittings from China for that reason. But Every now and then I’ll weld one that’s just not quite right. It acts funny you know what I mean. China’s QC is really getting bad
That stuff fizzes. Damn near lights on fire!
@taylorwelding what shirt are you wearing?
You got an overhead or vert up video? Been welding overhead for years with pulls and cv mig. But I’m now shaking off the stick rust and need to reteach myself. Never welded uphill with anything either.
I don’t have any vertical videos. I need to do an in-position pipe welding video. That will cover all positions
Ive been using rods I bought 10 years ago ...I don't think theyre 7018 ..this oven thing is not all its cracked up to be..I do keep all my rods next to the fire so theyre dry but the fires not going all the time.
My basic advice would be play with the heat/voltage/amperage and just get in there and try it...if it doesnt look or feel right it probably isnt so try somethiong else...don't keep doing the same thing just because thats what the book says.
I have to get the hang of all these numbers lol
thanks for sharing
It blows my mind how long you can pause on the toes with an 18 rod at the right amperage
Yep
have some 2x6 11 ga tube i wanna make a carport out of--7018 ok to weld that or would you use flux core fcaw e70t11 ? once the weather warms up i wanna make some sample joint welds. can i run downhill(to lessen penetration) with a 3/32 7018 in this gauge metal with maybe a 1/16 open root for the butt weld at the apex of the roof joint?
You’re going to get really close to full penetration with about anything you use on 11 gauge. I would not worry about gapping it. I would probably use a mig hardwire for that unless it was dirty I would use flux core. And if you have to use a stick I would use a 6010 3/32
@@TaylorWelding thank you for you insight..
I took a welding test today I haven’t ran 7018 for a while iv been doing down hand 7010 and 6010 for gas company but now I needed to do 7018 and oh man why did I get so much porosity? Is there something you can help me to understand what I’m doing wrong
Yes! porosity sucks… are you still having problems?
@@TaylorWelding no i figured it out I was running to cold so far I haven’t seen any porosity.
@@luisrosario8709 that will do it
All I can say is use a rod oven unless you like hydrogen cracking. Back yard welding is not code welding. You can choose to do things right or listen to those who don’t understand the why behind code requirements.
1-1000 jump 1-1000 jump 1-1000 timing.
to dry the rod out, just stick it to the metal, hold on a second to it heats up then un clamp and pull it off
i think the rod oven is for structural code work in earthquake zones because a moist rod loses its low hydrogen characteristics. the weld wont look any different, but it will be weaker and more brittle.
I don’t agree! I have been testing that theory for a long time.
But it is possible. It might diminish in some small way. But I don’t know if it would be noticeable
@@TaylorWelding Here's an interesting video showing that poorly maintained rods, like the rods you have, introduce the same amount of hydrogen as rods that aren't low-hydrogen. Which means it is a lot more susceptible to hydrogen cracking.
ua-cam.com/video/Wjz8eh3uxkU/v-deo.html&ab_channel=BillBruce
It's noticable, but usually only after the steel is laying in a mangled pile on the ground
@@ryanj2071 good point. the theory is only testable over decades of stress cycles that can be assessed only in a lab with time and equipment, or in the real world with failure. I think this particular test was confirmed in the last SF earthquake where buildings made with 60 rods and unbaked 70 rods failed at weld joints and collapsed destroying property and killing many people. any metal slinger who says they have been "testing a theory for years" is a little self important and a bit delusional. just because a pipe joint doesn't snap in half when hoisted after you welded it with unbaked rods doesn't mean it is a code quality weld, just that it is strong enough that day. a welding code requirement speaks to both strength and durability over time and in non-normal stress situations. these factors cannot be tested by a welder in the field. i enjoy taylor videos and his persona and confidence are inspiring, but i would not ignore code requirements on his advice. Confidence, like a non-code weld, is great until its not. .
@@peetky8645 well said. And I agree, I love his videos. Just gotta check the attitude when ignoring facts one doesn't understand
"eat into it" = undercut (trade term)
Your porosity didnt happen because of your machine. Its either the rods (thanks to them not being in a rod oven and the failure to properly difuse hydrogen) or welder error.
i digress, all the time 😂😂
For me, 7018 is the definition of "stick" welding. I can't even start this stuff! 6010, 6011, 6013 no problem. Can't start 7018.
Practice with some good rods a little bit hotter
You’re missing the point of diffused hydrogen. Diffused hydrogen is not going to show up on an x-ray, and is not necessarily going to change the experience of welding with the rod. The deposited weld will however be much more prone to hydrogen cracking if the rods are not stored properly. This is not something you can see with the naked eye or “feel” during welding-but it can lead to disaster. Read the reports on weldment failures in the freeway collapses during the Northridge earth quake. You do your readers a great disservice by conveying erroneous information. Thankfully those who are responsible for critical life-safety welding are likely better trained and have been exposed to the real facts.
Whatever Peter I’ve been doing it for over 20 years. Nobody can tell me any different. It’s poppycock.
Makes absolutely no difference
Aaand there it is!!!!! "I've been doing it for XXX years!"
Doing it for X amount of time doesn't mean you were doing it right. Kinda like the structural welder that's NEVER BUSTED a weld being UT'd,.........at least that's what they always say immediately after busting a weld 🤣
Thankfully, all this pipe he's welded with crappy 7018 rods for the past 20 years is underground. And we all know THOSE never leak right??
UA local 671
Union man thanks for watching!
Am I the only one that caught the crypto prices in the background??
I think so
Hydrogen embrittlement has entered the chat.
Lol
Why do you keep calling it Seventy-Eight-Ten???
Are you making fun of his accent 🙄
70+ / 8010
When i learned to weld the 6010 and 7018 were just in a holder on the bench no heat. At work all the rods were in an oven but it was only warm you could put your bare hand in the oven. Just to keep the rods dry. When asked great welder told me if i thought my rods maybe damp at home put them on a cookie sheet in the oven at the lowest setting for an hour to dry them out. Im working in construction in an lng plant and i understand why you will want to do every thing to code.
I love it . Stick weld a lot. Learning on my own. Getting better moving on to mig .
I have 3 welders 1 plasma cutter. I love it all. Just learning 7018 6013 all I use .110 welder I use 3 /32 I think . Thanks for making this videos
Enjoy your channel. I did recently see a test on 7018 on a youtube video called "Hydrogen Cracking" where they put the welds into mineral oil to see the hydrogen seep out. From what they showed, there really is less hydrogen in the weld if the rod is kept in an oven. Like you, I've had no problem welding with the rod either way but... food for thought.
That’s interesting I wonder if it makes a damn bit a difference
@@TaylorWelding hydrogen embrittlement is real, that's why most welding codes require 7018 rods to be kept dry.
As you know they don't generally become harder to weld with if they get moisture in them.
It's unfortunate to hear this video. He's got a LOT of good videos with many helpful tips, tricks and explanations. However, not understanding hydrogen embrittlement isn't a good reason to put out incorrect information about it.
Your weld will look great. It will pass UT and X-ray. Hydrogen embrittlement will likely only be noticed after failure of the member. Is this a big deal in oil pipe? Probably not since most are underground (however most DO leak).
It's entirely different when you're talking about a bridge or high-rise.
I hope the great videos continue, I'll continue to watch.
Hey Chris! Im currently in a free welding school put on here near my house. All we are using is 7018 and im addicted so far! Im prior military with a small passive income and im extremely interested in investing and making it out of the rat race. I decided to use welding as my means of starting that then a stroke of luck landed me on your page! You are by far the most inspirational contentent creator I have found on welding! Id love to learn more about both welding and generating wealth!
I'm in welding school just moved on from 6010 to 7018 I like the 7018 alot but striking an arc isn't as easy at least for me it seems to stick alot more. Great video by the way!!!
Thanks, John
clean the end of rod after a weld with a pipeliner file not your gloves then remember how to Strick your 6010 . here is show and tell burn a 6010 stop lay it down burn a 7018 stop lay it down then look at the ends you will see the difference. how to relight the used rod
Great stuff man, I'm just getting into welding like a lot of guys here. You're a good teacher and it seems like you enjoy sharing your knowledge and take the time to really explain things. Definitely going to remember the electrical tape tip !!!
Lol
thanks for the kind words Budy
Hang out but you have to keep your 1/8 gap
so remember when your hanging out back off 1/8 from the edge
This is the key for making a flat up hill weld
Rod heaters just make the rod run smoother.
Got a light film of oil on my rod had to through it in the trash
just started doing the certification for stick to weld pillars and means for steel buildings, although the names of electrodes and measurement is different in Sweden this helped me a lot
I think that was my problem, now thinking back42 years, that I was using a 1/8 7018 rod, but my instructor had me running a bead uphill, and listening to you, I’m thinking I should have run the bead with a 3/32 or used a 6010 and went over it with 7018. Am I thinking about it right? I’m trying to think back and figure out what I could have done to correct myself.
Great video!
I don't care what rod your using , if your a experienced Welder in any situation your weld will hold, with good penetration no mater what the conditions are,, using in limits of what the stencil strength of the rod is
Recently found your channel and enjoy all your videos. You mentioned changing your heat box, may I ask what that is? Thanks for your time.
It’s the remote / rheostat
When I was in VOAG classes in HS 7018 was one of my favorite rods to weld with. Especially when I used it to cap the deep welds on my log spliter wedge.
7018 is an awesome rod . Really strong
7018 is like baling round bales stay on the sides and the middle will take care of itself.
Dude,
thank you so much I just put what you taught today to practice and it fixed both my uphill and my overhead you rock brother
Thank you for telling me ! it really means a lot that I help somebody! Keep on practicing brother.
And if you have any questions or any hangups let me know I’ll make you a video
I'm a tig and mig welder, I've got a water tank that I want to use the stinger on my multi-processor 325x, my biggest problem which mostly is probably using the multi welder, but getting started just sticks so bad, I've messed up so many rods just perking them off the metal being stuck, maybe I need hotter or something, other than having a dedicated stick welder
7018 welds better if you dip it into a bucket of water but you are introducing hydrogen embrittlement. If looks matter use damp rods. If a project is speced for 7018 better use the oven ...
Subbed! Excellent video! This is the important stuff about the 7018! Thank you sir! ❤
Thanks for the sub!
on thin metal does ac work better than dcep? i have heard of some running dcen for open root 7018...any experience trying that?(northern sweden welding did that i think)
Honestly… I very seldom weld thin metal. If I have to I will TIG or Mig
Be good if you would run some of that 7018 uphill so we can see the hesitate, rod angle, and speed.
I’m having trouble getting the Welding on film. As soon as I run into some free time I’m gonna build a box to put a camera in.
1st enjoyed your video presentation on 7018, been welding many years as yourself but enjoy welding so much I relax and watch videos of welding for views and perspectives but great video and tips for new young welders.
I appreciate you watching pipe pro
very interesting delivery,,,,all good information......enjoyed this...covered the important parts for sure.....best wishes and .cheers from Florida, Paul
Thanks Paul! I’m just now seeing these comments.
@@TaylorWelding I am sure your channel will grow, you information is to the point and solid.....Merry Christmas......Paul
Your saying 7810? Wtf is that. Isn't is 7018???
I think it’s just my poor English 7018
But I am pretty bad dyslexic
Everybody at work Monday is learning about that electric tape move😂
For the last couple days, ive been out in my shop practicing with running 1G beads with some old 7018 rod that i found! Its thickness with flux is 2/8" in diameter & the metal rod itself is 1/8" thick! I dunno where the rod came from ( more than likely some old stuff that my dad had), but its all in a round cardboard tube from "Stultz". . . . i belive is the name & theres no end cap or cover to put on the tube to seal the rod! Some of the stick ive practice with were okay & lemme run the full stick bead, while others would just quit running a bead right in the middle of the stick! I would try & try to "strike", but nothing! But i sure am having fun practing though! Had the ole Lincoln arc welder set at 130 amps! Sure does make a purty, dark brown, colored, slag! Thankya for sharing your video👍🏻
Thanks bro will put the tips u shared into practice.Tell me is it absolutely necessary to use a hot rod heat with 7018.. especially if welding oil n gas pipes?
The only thing around heaters good for is drying out your rods. Keep them dry you don’t need a rod heater. IMO
That’s just my experience.
Thanks for the tips!
I was given about 100 lbs of several variety’s of rod from estate of a guy who suddenly died, and it had quite a few lbs of 7018 and 9018 so I will not be quite so concerned with the fact they were not stored in a rod oven.
Before you tell people not to worry about baking a E7018 and that it doesn't matter what the moisture content in them is, you need to be able to explain WHY it doesn't matter. Unless you can do that you are precisely the same, if not worse, than the Inspector who cannot and does not want to weld.
Learn when it matters and learn when it doesn't matter. Been in welding since 1983 - all over the planet - not that that matters now - does it! :)
Good for you Mr Paul.
Nah, come on, tell em why they can and then tell them why they can't. Why do you think you know more than Lincoln Electric and countless others if you can't explain that one? Not good for you, that is crap matey! And from what I see apart from this you are not crap, are you....@@TaylorWelding
@@TaylorWelding See the way I see it is that toughness is important to you, that is why you work out, BUT it doesn't appear to me that it is important to your welds. You cram pack your welds with H2 and your fracture toughness values goes through the floor, something a welder never gets to see, so they wouldn't know. Don't believe, do a comparison test, make a video and let the whole world see the results, go on I dare you to! You never know you might be able to jamb one up Lincoln Electric themselves. Till then I'd suggest you follow their recommendations in critical situations at least - unless you think you know more then them....
Hi, any tips on welding vertical and above using 4mm 7018 rods ?
try to stay out from under it. Hesitate on the side much is possible.
6013 (farmer rod) seems to be the forgotten rod. It has it's uses, but nobody ever mentions it. You Tube is all about pipe welders ( 6010 and 7018 ). 6013 rods run on old tombstone a/c buzz boxes or any other welding machine. They are easy to use and can weld just about anything around a farm. I prefer 7018, but 6013 works pretty good on thin sheet metal.
Your videos are very very informative !! Been at for 5 years basically a shop welder on equipment repair.. love those 7018 rods !! Recently went to the dark side and started running duel sheild 045 but I still love the old 7018 6010 combo for a good strong weld !!
That combination is hard to beat
I always tell the new welders on the job when weaving a cap on pipe that the heat gets there before the metal so you gotta pause for a quick second on the cap. move to quick on the toe and you'll get undercut!