How to Choose the Correct Viscosity of Oil for your Classic Vehicle
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- Опубліковано 11 лип 2024
- Ken Tyger and Nick Dixon, with PennGrade 1 high performance oil, talk about how to choose the correct viscosity of oil for your vehicle.
The engines of classic cars were designed for the viscosity of oils available during that time period. The engines of the 1950s - 1970s had much looser clearances than any of today's counterparts. Today's engines are built around fuel economy and emissions standards.
With a 1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass, you are without a catalytic converter. You should look at the engine in the ideal ambient temperature environment, between 60 and 100 degrees. For this vehicle, Ken would recommend a SAE 30, a straight weight monograde/linear viscosity oil.
In relationship to drain interval, it is dependent on how and when you use the application. Because PennGrade 1 is mostly conventional, mineral-based oil, we recommend users adhere to a 3,000 mile oil drain or once per year, whichever comes first.
For those who only drive their car for a few months per year, it is recommended to change the oil and filter at the end of the season, before the car sits in a garage for several months. - Авто та транспорт
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Living in Australia, 20w50 oil is the best oil for any Chev, Ford or Chrysler V8 produced in the 1970s because of our climate.
In my 59 years, I've owned 50 odd of small block and big block cars and to this day I run Penrite Oils in all my cars without an oil related failure.
That makes sense. Here in Canada for small & big block chevy, Chrysler engines the best is usually 15w40 summer and 0w40 winter. I always add 1 bottle of stp oil treatment as well.
I’ve owned a 70 Z28 since 1981 and only summer drive it and don’t use anything lower than 10w40. Depending on the weather, I have used, 30wt, 10w40, 15w40 and 20w50. If you want your internals cleaned once in a while, then use 15w40 cause it’s a diesel oil.
Outside of marketing, refer to your owners/service manual for your vehicle. As for "acids during storage", that's why oils have a additive package which marketing also likes use the term "detergent" a part of the package, as is calcium and zinc with other such elements.
that cutlass needs 10w-40 all day long. If it is very worn, maybe 20w-50.
Interesting, thanks
Use a 5W-30 synthetic in these cars as long as correct oil pressure is met...all you need.
I use 5w40 Euro Quaker State in my 70 Chevy. No issues at all.
Thanks
Best oil all the time 20w50 this what you should use In all classic engine
Thank you for this very informative I have a 93 and a 91 Celica G T they are used seasonally the manual says use 10 W 30 Conventional Oil I Use the Castrol Brand for years Both Cars have 130.000 on them and get stored in Winter What thoughts would you have ?
Appreciate the video but you ultimately suggest 20/50 for the Cutlass because of how it will be used but don’t describe how it will be used?
My neighbor a mechanic. Uses 0W-10 Royal Purple racing oil in his 1970 Buick Stage 1. Roller cam, aluminum single plain intake, headers, rock crusher, 4:30 posi rear. He consistently runs in the 11s with a best of 11.89 at 119 mph.
We all remember Ford Crown Vic with oil cap sign 5w20 on it. I also downloaded repair manual on BMW E21 3 series. The oil recommended is 20w20.
Good to har some clear sense on Classic Cars and oil. I've got a 1990 Miata, first gen 1.6lt normally aspirated. Factory recommends a 20w:40 or 40, which of course would have been a mineral oil. Lots of my fellow enthusiasts are use 10w:30 high end sythetic. I think it's too light. These cars a prone to hyraulic lifter tick on start up and warm up, as is mine. You can sometimes get a little bearing knock also until warm up if oil pressure is lowish as idle. I split the difference and I'm currently running a Castrol UltraClean 15w:40 semi synth. However, I'm thinking on my next summer oil change to go to 20w:50 mineral. Thoughts?
Stick with the 15w40. PennGrade1 has that viscosity. The 40 part is what counts. And the car will run cooler as there is less OIL friction with a 40 then a 50. Look at it this way. If you had a cup of boiling water, and a cup of boiling molasses, which one cools down quicker? The thinner oil in this case with transfer the heat out faster than a thicker oil. You don't have a big V8 with the greater tolerances. Slugging an oil 20% thicker will also cause your fuel economy to go down. Remember, the bottom number doesn't stick around long after you start the engine. Don't know what Ken would say, but this is my opinion.
Single weight, mineral straight 30 is supposed to be very good for storage, ...clings to parts much better than multi weight oils.
Check your owner's manual if you have one.
1:33, recommends straight 30 oil because of the bearing clearances. 2:04, In this case use a 20W-50 in this Cutlass. WHY?????
I have a 1974 dart sport 360. Hot cam more performance parts etc. I run 30 wt straight oil. Always runs well! Never have switched weights. KISS is what I follow!
@@cesareomendez6794 Do you also use bias ply tires?
So where can I find it for sale ?????? I live in Houston, Texas. What is the amount of the anti-wear additives like ZDDP ???
Oh these guys know
Can your oil be used with a 2 piece rear main seal?
Hi, I just bought a 1973 corvette with a 350 CC engine. I plan on using 20-50 oil for my first oil change. Do you think that’s a good choice. I live in Oklahoma where it gets really hot in the summertime. Thank you.
You can only pick your viscosity if you know what the oil temp is. Outside weather is not oil temp.
20w50 NUTZ
I have a 1989 Nissanpathfinder with a vg30i engine what oil do you recommend
20/50?? You’re leaving HP on the table with the oil viscosity
Just wondering... all those saying they are wrong to recommend 20/50, what OBJECTIVE data are you basing this on, or is it just your OPINION? What actual TESTS have you done? PROVE you're right and they are wrong, or just say you have an OPINION...
It's not rocket science. Use the viscosity recommended when the car was made.
What a clown. "OK pops, I got this, even though you have decades of experience over me, you can only talk for 28 seconds."
Are you willing to pay for someone's engine if your wrong?. Never change the viscosity of what the manufacturer engineered for that engine. All vehicles are engineered. Every single thing that goes into the manufacturing of an automobile has a part number to it,and that includes oil. I know this guy who changed the viscosity grade of his engine to a thicker grade and blew it up. It was to thick on a cold start up and to thin at operating temperature. Are you prepared to buy someone's engine if your wrong because you are. Manufacturer's spend million of dollars a year for research and development.
These cars were designed for 10w-30 and many were driven year-round. For 95% of people, you can't go wrong with using 10w-40, especially on a worn engine. Let's be real the designers of these engines did not anticipate people owning them for 50+ years.
Owners manual is the Bible. Maybe 1 step up in viscosity during spring and summer if the engine has wear.
@@billskalicky5400 No owners manual say's that at all.
Bearing clearance hasn't changed significantly since we had the capacity to spec them. I wouldn't trust these clowns with my used motor oil.
3000 mile oil change intervall is completely unnessecary. You can easliy drive double that without any problems whats´o´ever. This is just another myth that oil manufacturers recommend in order to rip you off.
20W-50 ???? This is going to destroy a fresh built such as a 350 small block Chevy. You can't look at the manufacture recommendation if you are going to modify your engine. What a stupid advice from PennGrade 1
In Germany for all OHV engines we mostly use new old stock east german made ADDINOL MV244 new old stock API SD and SE oil this is former Wolga and Lada Taxicab engine oil perfect for US cars due to lots of poison and zinc inside its 20W40: de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Datei:DDR_Motor%C3%B6l_Addinol_Super_MV244.jpg