You hit the nail right on the head.Been a mechanic for almost 5 decades.A lot of people don't like or don't want to educate themselves as things evolve.Convention oils have not been the same since the 90's.Good job on explaining the why you need to use specific oils.
Go search Speediagnostics channel and see the recent video Lake did on why that’s a bad idea. Hard to believe people still fall for the diesel oil scam.
I ran my break in oil for 500 miles then dropped it for royal purple 10-40(stock bottom end with a lot of miles and a lot of gofast stuff upstairs) in my 95 f150.i don't skimp on oil for any my rigs.I now use driven in my jeep and 95 f150,and mobile 1 in my newer stuff like the sequoia and my super crew f150.
I have a flat tappet 7.4 in my 1995 3500HD service truck and is always under load, Truck weighs 13,000lbs. The book says 10w30, engine has 175k miles. I think I'm gonna go with 10w40 or 15w40 now lol
been building engines since 1969 , i'm a stricked muscle car guy and i've always done a double break in on all mine, i also like a cold break in to hot break in till the engine is ready for road, i've never used addivtives in my oil and i've always used a straight weight Valvoline / Havoline only . my father used it in his stockcar in the 60's never spon a bearing or sezed a ring , at up and down RPM's from 3000 to 7200 for 50 to 100 laps. every thing i learned growing up was at the track, while everybody else started using the new multi function oils the 20/50 junk were losing bearings , because they were trying to run a tighter engine instead of a lose engine! durring builds we'd polish the bearings to make it a bit lose. , a real good broke in lose engine will last a lot longer, but i've never been a fan high detergent oils at all , perhaps if i were building newer style engines i'd have to change .
@@cmte.brazinazzo2061 No! You start the engine cold, run it to operating temp, then shut it down and let it sit until it's cold again. Rinse/repeat several times. It's the "old way" of doing things. Never hold a new engine or old engine for that matter, at WOT by itself (free wheelin'), unless you like the idea of tossing a rod or two!
What did Detroit do in the day? I think they did a run in, not a "break in" as everyone now dances around. Given the millions of engines built each year that procedure probably was about 4 or 5 minutes per: hook up electricals, cooling and fuel, bust it off then... set curb idle, adjust idle mixture, check for leaks & vibrations/noises, drop a fresh charge of oil in perhaps, then push it out ready for assembly line use or remediation. Granted, there is an important bridge crossed by the bulk of aftermarket cams: ramps are faster, lift is higher - both of which demand higher spring pressures. A warranty kind of cam from the SD oil era was typically under 0.450" lift, and ramps were 30-50 degrees. Fast forward to the flat tappet developments of the 80's/90's with lifts topping 0.540" and 16 degree ramps and... we need better oil period. And since oil companies formulate for the car makers [who can pay for the required petro-chemist work] the road has forked somewhat. I am heartened by Godbolds recent focus on gentler ramps [flat or roller] - it may just save the day, because astm tests at present are not capable of vetting oils serving spin in the bore style tappets at all: IVA and IVB tests use overhead cam engines. Brew a pot of coffee, search '540ratblog' and prepare to have a few old "everybody knows..." maxims shattered. Maybe the cam world can flex its collective and push to get an astm standard in place vetting oil for flat tappets [using a third party organization for continuous development]? I don't know, but for now things seem to have come full circle to the 1940's again: we're on our own.
@@flinch622 Yeah, well "Detroit" had plenty of money and plenty of engines, they didn't have to worry about it!! We can't hardly afford to build the one engine we've got, so it has to be taken seriously, and we have to try everything we can to make sure it's a success!
@@patrickm.8425 You know what I can't find? Where this "break in" thing all started. I vaguely recall Lunati offering "voodoo juice" in the early 90's but maybe I didn't read enough. A new engine is a conundrum: rings need to seat, but the cam...needs protection. For me? Dress the bores and bless the skirts with break in oil, cap the bottle and put a good oil in the sump. The purpose of break in oil [as always]: increased wear through reduced protection - thats it. Car companies ignoring warranty liabilities get punished: those come out of profits. That's a very big incentive, but lets focus on logistics. 1969, Chevrolet built 2.06M units. I don't know the history of how their plants ran so I will say 46 weeks a year production: 44,782 engines per week. Assume 3 shifts/5 days and that is 8956 engines a day. Assume 2 hours non productive time a day and that's 407/hour production. A 5 minute run-in needs 34 test bays, a 20 minute needs 135 - that's almost 4x the capital investment in space & equipment... and we haven't even arrived at labor yet. Administering pensions isn't free. But I don't think money was the problem then: that could be passed to the consumer which had more purchasing power than we do today [thanks to Nixon].
First…. Love the vids and your passing on your knowledge/findings/options. Second…. Gonna have to phone a fiend here…. Main clearance .003 tells me 10-40 or 15-40 and my Rod clearance .0026 tells me 5-30 or 10-30 This is on a old 460 now a 514, carbureted pulling a 78 F350 20,000 miles or so (first half in AZ and TX and now in Florida). Which side do I lean more towards? More attention to the low or the high? I might be analyzing this way too much but there are many factors to consider. 10-40 sounds the closest to what I need with my variants but……. Watcha all think? 😉
My certified engine builder told me to stick with 10w40 for my daily driver motor in the southwest. So I'm using conventional 10w40 from Driven on my fresh rebuild after break in oil
Wow. What’s a certified engine builder! 😂 If that’s the weight they told you to run, I’d keep a that in mind as you get it broken in and driving. Bearing clearances, fuel type and oil temps has a lot to do with what weight to run.
Driven Hot Rod oil has high zinc. I thought high zinc was only for break-in period. Have a 67 Mustang with 289. All original/stock. Stored in winter. Will Driven Hot Rod oil work for me? Your vids are well done and informative.
I think the preferred way to describe it is correct amount of zinc (and moly). Break in oils have less detergent. That’s generally what makes them unique. The Driven Hot Rod oil will be awesome for your application if it’s an original engine and it gets stored a lot. Thanks for watching! Very much appreciate it!
I got a 351 Cleveland, Now A 408 Stroker Completely built from the top end.. not sure about the bottom end because I just bought it... Aluminum Heads/High Volume Oil Pump Sits Around 60PSI... Supposely it rated around 500HP... Just Finished the break in process. What type of Oil Should I put ? Anyone ? Please ?
The rings take the longest to seat themselves. 400 miles is kind of the standard on a street engine. Running a quality break in oil allows it time to get it done. Very cheap insurance!
What do you mean with the crankshaft clearances ? If you turn a crank undersize and then you use a bearing to make up that difference. Correct me if I am wrong but doesn’t your oil clearance end up the same whether you have stock sized journals or you have .020 undersized journals with the correct bearing to make up the difference, From my own experience I have several, classic V8 , carbureted , flat tappet littered engines, pre cat converter that I have ran for over 30 years on 20w50 valvoline racing oil with no bearing, ring, cam/lifter failure. That is what was the oil my machinist suggested I use so it has worked for me thus far. I also always add a bottle of STP as well. It works for my stuff, it’s affordable and readily available as well locally. I’m not doubting that this product your suggesting we look into isn’t good but why fix it, if it ain’t broke.
Undersize and clearance are two different things. You can look at that chart Driven publishes on how to determine viscosity based on bearing clearances, oil operating temps, fuel type, boosted or NA. All are determining factors in selecting viscosity.
Choose by Chemistry 1st, weight 2nd, that is golden advise brother. The biggest thing I get from people is "it costs more", but if you do the simple math @ a dollar more a quart, that's only about $5 to save you $5-10,000-ish. Break-In Oil is so very important, but I have to pull my guarantee if it's not used, and the complaint is the cost & that its only good for 500 miles. Again, $50 (or so) to save you $5-10,000, it just makes no sense. They complain about the cost of the rebuild/build, and then want to put the least expensive, or "what I always use" oil in it. It just baffles me. Point in case: I live in a very rural farm/ranch area. Farmer/Ranchers here buy their Diesel Fleet oil in bulk for all their equipment. Its not uncommon at all to find Used Fords, Chevys, Dodges here with Plugged Cats, because they are changing their own oil with what they already have. Damn good video, I'll definitely be sharing this for ya.
For some reason you have a better chance of insulting someone’s mother and them inviting you over for Christmas dinner than you have in changing peoples mind about the BRAND of oil they use. Brand is the last thing to consider. And the folks who will say “yeah but I’ve always run xxxx in my engines and never had a problem”, forget that every failure starts at a microscopic level. Get it right and the king term survivability goes up as well as the next rebuild after many miles of service.
I do like those on solids, but... they can't fix weak oil. Not even 0.1%. You get a tiny bit of extra cooling, and a faster galley purge on startup. But if I had to pick the better of two options, it would be lifter bore grooving, because more oil on the lobe before the lifter arrives is a no brainer.
I have a 1970 Pontiac 400 engine in my 1974 Firebird Formula. No idea about bearing clearances etc. I am new to this. I feel like a third grader who stumbled into a college course on Astrophysics. Yikes. Just trying to figure out what is the best oil for my new classic car.
I have never heard of Driven oils until I started watching Lake Speed Jr. It sounds like a great oil. But my Dad and I have been Valvoline guys for as long as I've been alive. I'm 58 now So I use the VR1 in my Chevelle. Lake talks highly of that oil too.
@@einstein3509 follow Lakes advice and never choose brand first. Find the right chemistry for the application you’re working on and then find the brand that has those attributes.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Well let me tell yea. It's getting damn confusing with oil anymore. Back in the early 80's my dad and I used off the shelf Valvoline oil and never had any issues. I know the Zinc or ZDDP was around 1200ppm i believe. I'm still using Valvoline today in my 71 Chevelle but it's the VR1 to get that zinc. The guy that built my engine didn't write down what the bearing clearances were on my paperwork. All he told me was I can run a 10W30 or 10W40 and that he used a 40 grade for break in oil. Here's my build. what do you recomend? 383 stroker Aluminum heads 10.2:1 compression Engine Dyno 500hp 522tq on 87 to 89 octane 3:73 gears ht350 trans so driving down the freeway it runs around 3700rpm's. My engine temp runs between 170-180 I've raced it a few time but anymore it's a cruiser. I do like to get on it from time to time but no more all out racing for me. I can't afford the ticket It was built in 2021 Will VR1 10W30 work okay with you or do you recommend something different?
Your build is slightly more aggressive than mine and I’m using 91 octane, but still just a E10 blend. Mine is also a roller motor and I’m unsure of the bearing clearances (crate engine) but it was also recommended a 10w30. I use the Driven GP-1. They came out with that bends when they took over using the base oil from the famous Kendall refinery. Not a better oil out there. I’m sure the VR is probably fine in your engine. But that oil has changed formulas a few times so it’s not a big stretch to think they won’t again. If it’s a roller motor, the zinc isn’t as big a factor.
I saw top fuellers running straight 70 grade oil. If its good enough for them its good enough for me. I run it in my Mopar small block and never had an issue. Has great oil pressure.
When you are saying 25 and 30 thousandths for engine clearances do you mean 2 and a half and 3 thousandths? 25 to 30 thousandths are HUGE numbers for bearing clearances which any engine would not function properly at for over a minute. I am rebuilding my engine in my 1987 Chevy P/U and I will soon be using 5 quarts of Driven break-in oil. I have used it on several of my rebuilds and it does what the company says it will do. Thanks and take care.
Brother you do an amazing job with your videos. Rebuilt my whole fuel system because of it lol. I have a 1964 Falcon with a 1965 289 that stock. No clue what the tolerances are. I’m ready for my first oil change. But I don’t know what to use. I’m in Hawaii so pretty limited. Asked on the group and it was either conventional with additive, diesel oil or VR1. Ugh
You’re asking about viscosity, but the first thing to know would be what type of valvetrain. Since you don’t know anything about the engine, a little inspection will at least tell you what type of cam and lifters are in the engine. You said you’re ready for your first oil change - is this on a newly rebuilt engine or an older engine that you’ve just acquired?
@@MuscleCarSolutions wow thanks for the reply. both weight and type. New to me Falcon. Bone stock so not a roller. I live in Hawaii so never cold. Driven on the weekends.
@@64FalconSprint808 so if you’re comfortable with that assessment, then try the VR1 in the viscosity that the factory called for. Then just monitor pressures and make sure you’re happy with the results. The new formulation on the VR1 is excellent. Go check out Lake Speed Jrs channel - The Motor Oil Geek and you’ll find a video he did on it recently.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I watched a couple on the VR1. Sounds like they changed the formula. No sulphur and less calcium was it.?. Thanks for the reply. Your blessing of a product means a lot. Now if I figure out why it starts crappy after it’s warmed up lol. Save that for another video comment. Cheers
Glad I don't use a solid flat tappet cam. I use a good brand of oil 10w30 or 40 in my 460 bbf (mild build) and change it often. I use Mfg recommened oil in my 2015 Camaro and my 2015 F-150 and change often. Ford Quick lane now charge $80 plus 2% if you pay by credit/debit card for their complete oil chage including tire rotation. Use to get for a tad over $30 with coupon, so I do it myself now for around $35.
@@MuscleCarSolutionsthink you missed this is a high mile likely pretty worn poncho 455 where facttory rec 10w-30 or 10w-40 do it’s better to run the slightly thicker 10-40 due to high mikes & wear. But if it were my car/motor I’d rec he run 15w-40 GP-1 in it. 10-30 is not the best choice for a high mile old school large disp 455 of the 60’s-70’s that will have wider clearances everywhere for the thinner 10-30 yo get past. I rec the thicker 15w cold/base Wt oil because it makes the oil a bit more resistance to viscosity breakdown/sheer. Depending on just how worn this old school high mile 455 is & temperature it runs in it could be a candidate for GP-1 20w-50 too.
Hello, Very interesting stuff! I have a 1969 Mustang with a rebuilt 351W with stroker crank, roller cam and AFR aluminum heads. Original block. This will be a street cruiser most of the time. Do you have enough information to recommend an oil?
Rotella is blended with an additive pack for cleaning diesel particulate. Not the best choice for a gas powered engine. Playing chemist with an addictive that is attacked by the detergent in that API oil is another strike.
Great video. What would you recommend for a built 351m with forged 4032 autotec pistons with 1.5mm rings and 3mm oil control ring, full retrofit roller valvetrain with Morel hydraulic lifter, steel comp rockers stud mounted? I am at 5000 feet altitude in northern Colorado. That Driven oil seems like a good one. Not sure if i need a high zinc oil for roller cam. Thanks.
The more I’ve used the Driven GP-1 oil, the more I like it. I’ve got a really long test in process where I’ll be going by the Speed Diagnostix oil analysis to gauge how a few different oils protect an engine, but I’ll generally always recommend Driven. Your viscosity choice will boil down to bearing clearances, fuel type and how you’re using the vehicle and how often. Give the folks at Driven a call but my guess is they’ll push you towards the GP-1 if you’re putting a decent amount of miles on each year.
Mixing different oil viscosity? I’m using Valvoline VR1 synthetic. All I can find is 10W30 and 20W50 Can I mix the 2 viscosity’s to make a difference viscosity? I found an on line a viscosity calculator and according to that with my 7 quart system. If I mix 3 quarts of 10W30 with 4 quarts of 20W50 I’ll come up with roughly a 15W40. Is it okay to mix viscosity’s like
So what oil to use on flat tappet cam musclecar/ponycar engines WITH a catalytic converter (circa 1975 to 1987)? For instance, what oil to use on my stock, factory original ‘79 Pontiac 400 V8 in a tenth anniversary edition Trans Am collector car, all matching numbers, 4-speed, 43k miles?? Driven only occasionally on nice days, but thoroughly exercised after warm when driven. Owner’s manual says 10W-40 motor oil, “SE” was the API oil rating back then-conventional ‘dino’ oil, of course. No, I’m not going to cut off the cat and install a “test pipe.” Everything seems to indicate that it needs more zinc than today’s “shelf oils” offer, but the specialty oils now with extra zinc say “not for use in catalytic converter vehicles”!
Any suggestions please, I just bought a used 06 Holden GTO (Ls1 v8 Chevy engine) with 70,000 mile. The previous owner always uses a 20w 50 oil and he recommended me to use the same type. However I feel that this heavy viscosity will do more damage to the car. Any recommendations please on what viscosity or oil type should I use? The car is not modified at all and will be used one hour a day conservatively. Our climate is always the same all around the 4 seasons (25C° in the early morning and 40C° at noon and around 35C° in the evening ) it is toooo hot and humid 🥵. Please any suggestions, I'm really lost 🙄
Any thoughts on running break in oil as a every change oil? As in for the life of the occasionally run engine? Also what about Marvel Mystery oil as an additive?
Break in oil has no detergent qualities. Those are needed. It also doesn’t have long term storage properties which is needed on an engine that doesn’t see much driving time. Look at Driven’s HR series of oils if that’s the situation you’re in.
Motor oil is great, but what about equally as good oil filter, any thoughts on which oil filter to go with? The Frams and Bosh dont seem to do well and are cheaply manufactured.
Project farm YT channel did an in depth comparrison on oil filters. Fram is junk from the findings. Check out that video on filters and then motor oils. Walmart super tech was one of the top oils. Like MSC said, it's not the brand it is what is in it.
@@robertclymer6948 the base filters Fram puts out is junk but they do have or had one line that was pretty good. I'm a Wix guy but there's a lot of good filters out there.
Just like the video says, the one with the right chemistry for your application. I can’t make any recommendations. I don’t know what you’re working on.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I know. According to the chart I need a 5w20 or a 5w30. But is it okay to use a full synthetic in the first few thousand miles? Will it seat the rings properly?
@@laurensvanpeperstraten9294 always good to get a recommendation directly from the manufacturer. The Driven folks will get you set in the right direction for sure. Have fun!
I don’t have a clue what the properties are with that Napa oil. Typically the straight weight oils have a decent amount of zinc and moly to work with the older engines, but I don’t know with that oil.
so where do you find out what the best chemistry is for your engine? I just picked up a 1984 dodge d150 with a 318. All stock at the moment, and only 67,000 original km's. Where would a guy go looking for what the right chemistry is?
To start a fight, ask if you should use manifold vac advance of ported. I have seen people even fight with themselves over that!!! I know the right answer. 😂
@@robertclymer6948 the answer is … it depends how your distributor is timed. If it’s timed for manifold, use manifold vacuum. If distributor is timed for ported, than use ported.
The new 7.3 ford Godzilla has been having lifter failure. It’s suspected that it’s due to improper lubricantion due to the 5-30 blended oil. It’s a push rod engine. Would you recommend10-40 ??
Blend wouldn’t be an excessive factor. Chemistry on the other hand for sure would be and potentially viscosity. I’m assuming the 5w-30 is the factory spec. You could try a full synthetic in the same weight. I hadn’t heard any issues but that Godzilla motor hasn’t really taken off like everyone hoped it would. Maybe ford will up the production and get more cores into the market in the next 10-15 years. For now it seems like it’s been a dud.
Good grief this is tough. I have a mid 60's high compression Olds that's never been opened up and choosing an oil up here in Canada seems impossible. I don't see any of these high zinc options up here other than something like 20w-50, which I'm not putting in. I've been using Rotella T4 until now but apparantly that isn't a good idea either.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I don't need the"best" oil, I just need something I don't have to worry about and it seems impossible. I've heard not to use synthetic on an old engine like mine as it will probably start weeping oil so then I'm happy to use whatever conventional oil that isn't going to kill my cam. '66 Toronado by the way! Bone stock, never touched!
Lucas would argue with you .i alway use Supertech10w30 with Lucas and take it down the strip .coffee filter for my air filter it's all good pro😉$1.00 for 100 filter can't beat it and and baking soda for car interior to suck up all the smells 35 cents man😉it's all I'm giving no more .drive and save is what I say. Change your oil every 3000 it will last you 300.000 just stay with the rule before changing them😉
Here's one thing that kind of frustrates me on this "break-in" stuff... one of the things we get told is that we are supposed to keep the engine RPM about 2500 and fluctuate it between 2500 and 2800 in 10 minute intervals (depending on which engine break-in group you want to listen to). When you ask why you need to run the engine this fast and fluctuate the rpm's, you're told because you need the oil to be flung up onto the camshaft lobes from the crankshaft to lubricate them. What a load of nonsense!! The camshaft and lifters are absolutely saturated with oil via the lifter bores, at least on a BBC they are! It's pretty easy to leave the intake manifold off, fill the pan with oil, then spin the oil pump with a drill and sit there and watch in amazement at the oil that is flooding the camshaft and lifters! No special lifters with expensive holes "laser" drill into them, no special magic, just pure oil flooding the camshaft! So why are we lied to about needing the crankshaft to fling oil upon the camshaft and lifters? (I've never built a Ford or Mopar, so maybe these engines are inefficient and need help, I don't know). Also, using an aftermarket windage tray and crank scraper isn't going to allow much oil to be getting tossed around anyway! So I wonder why I should trust these people who tell me this stuff, when they lie to me in the first place? Like BradPenn (PennGrade 1) who still claim that their base oil is a Pennsylvania base crude oil, when it's a complete lie!! Why should I trust someone and their product, who's going to lie to me? And that's advertising! Everyone claims to have the greatest oil for your engine, when it's clearly not true! I remember back in the day (1980's) when we would build engines, go to the store and buy VR1, coat our bearings and cam and cylinders, start the engine and drive it for 100 miles or so. Then check oil filter, and if everything was good, fill with fresh VR1, and go beat the hell out of it, and NEVER, EVER have any problems at all! I think the problem today is the metallurgy! Junk parts make junk engines! And oil companies have ALWAYS lied!! Good luck all!
Every single competent engine builder and cam manufacturer would disagree with that sentiment. That RPM is absolutely needed, but it’s also the initial heat for those two surfaces to begin to work together. It’s not a new concept. You’re welcome to see the series I have on why flat tappet cams fail. I’m finishing up the final video in that series now on lifters. There is some very enlightening information in those videos. Plus I have an interview with Billy Godbold that you also might also enjoy.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I'm totally fine with them disagreeing with me, it's cool. But we have NEVER had as many cam failures as we have today, there is something else going on besides just people using the wrong oil, etc. Heat cycling engines is nothing new, we've been doing that as long as I can remember, that's all part of the process. Also, I have watched guys all my life run their engines in with the valve covers on and not paying any attention to the pushrods. Most of the time it works out OK, but when a lifter/lobe fails, they don't even realize it until there is a horrible noise coming from the engine, and by then, the engine is in need of a rebuild. Never could understand that one. Awesome, I look forward to your new videos on the subject!
@@patrickm.8425 yup, you’re very correct. The last ten years have been awful for flat tappet cams. Why? That’s what I wanted to uncover and show in that cam series. It’s never one thing in this equation. Oil just happens to be one reason why. The whole beginning of Driven Racing Oil was the Gibbs team wiping out cams 20 years ago. The formulation changed drastically. Hey I even interviewed Lake Speed JR if you want to hear it from him directly!
I've got a 1969 Hurst Olds with a 455 what weight and brand should I use??? I had an oil change and the shop put in 5w20 full synthetic it's leaking a lot of oil I've been putting in 5w20 synthetic blend valving high mileage
What kind of oil would be best for a '70 Chevelle SS 396 that was rebuilt with roller components? The engine was rebuilt before I ever bought it so I don't know the clearances. I've heard that you have to use a thinner weight due to the needs of the roller components. Where do you find the balance?
Got lots of people who will have a hydraulic roller cam with mildly tight clearance running 20w-50 and the thing is extremely noisy. The lifters hate it. The wheel on the lifter hates it. Crazy. You’re probably safe to start with a 10w-30 and see how it sounds. As long as oil pressure is good and oil temp is good you should be ok. Hard thing about an unknown engine. Never know what they used.
The trouble with arbitrarily mixing and off the shelf detergent oil and a zinc additive is they don’t always mix and they don’t always mix immediately. I did an interview with the folks from Driven Racing oil and they gave some detail on how oils are blended. All the ingredients aren’t just dumped into a container, stirred and it’s done. Each additive goes in at a certain time and at a certain temperature so the molecules will bond and not attack each other. When you dump a zinc additive into a detergent oil, the detergent tries to kill the zinc.
@@jadongh1 oil temp and coolant temp are two very different things. If you’re a stock engine. Then go with the viscosity that the manufacturer recommended.
Can you recommend a better oil for a 2020 Dodge Challenger 6.4 Scat Pack ? These Hemi engines have been known to have Lifter ticks, failed lifters, chewed up cams., So I'm thinking that perhaps the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum SRT 0w40 oil is not enough. I will appreciate if you can recommend a better oil, or oil with additive to help prevent issues. I was thinking of going with Redline Ow40 100 percent synthetic with high zinc racing oil. Not the off the shelf. Their higher performance version., But again I'm not sure if that is the right way to go. My car is a daily, doesn't see much traffic, and I would like to start tracking it at least once a month.
You can’t run an oil with high zinc levels. Not on a car with catalytic converters. I’d call Driven and see what they recommend. As far as the lifters go, there’s really only one way to handle that situation and unfortunately it’s not with oil. You’ve likely got a lifter swap in your future. Good news is you can make a cam swap at the same time and give that gen3 hemi a little more power!
@@MuscleCarSolutions Thank you Sir, I will contact Driven for advice. I appreciate your reply. Regarding the Cats. I'm going to replace with a test pipe, and out adaptors on the sensors to prevent the engine light trigger. No emissions testing where I'm at. There is a channel I follow on hemi. The mechanic says exactly what you stated. Hellcat lifters or better, and cam swap. I think a custom grind would be best. You see my engine has the mds lifters unfortunately, just like the 5.7. it seems that's where the problem lies. Hellcats don't seem to have that issue with solid lifters. I love be naturally aspirated Engines. I don't plan to super charge, it turbo charge. Just a few bolt ONS and have some fun. Mid life Crisis bro. Lol. Also trying to enjoy combustion engines before it's all over.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I'm glad i saw this comment. I have a 6.4 392 as well looking for solutions aside from Amsoil. Can you expound as to why Zinc isn't recommended?
Two things: Were you paid or sponsored by driven in any way? And I'd say a rock solid 90-95% of guys don't know the tolerences in their engines especially if it isn't a fresh rebuild. What is your suggestion for them?
I’d love to be sponsored by Driven, but no, I’m not. Everything you see in my videos other than two I did for a company named Vevor was 100% purchased by me and no sponsorship. My reviews are my own and mine alone. Even on those sponsored products. If it’s good, I’ll express that. If there’s problems, I’ll express that too.
I see you have a 289 I have a stock 289 in my 64 falcon I bought not long ago. Time for my first oil change. I have no clue what the tolerances are. While he goes into great detail IF you built the engine. I’m just not wanting to destroy my engine. What oil do you use? I asked online and it was either diesel oil or Valvaline VR1. I choose VR1.
Main difference is the GP-1 is a synthetic blend. So if you’re on a newer rebuild, it’s perfectly fine to use. The HR oils are all conventional oils. Better for older original gasket and seal engines. Great for long term storage. The GP oils are every day, driver type oils. Best way I can explain it. Give the folks at Driven a call.
Assuming it’s still a flat tappet engine. Kind of an odd one there as it’s likely still got a catalytic converter on it so a high zinc oil can play hell with it. Call Driven and get their recommendation. Let me know what they tell you.
I have a 70s sbc 350. Probably never been rebuilt. She’s a little tired but runs good and a tad hot. Previous owner says he THINKS he ran Rotella T 15w-40 in her. I put in 10w-30 recently now have a bigger oil leak. Recommendations please. Thanks in advance
If it’s an original gasket engine, you need to run a full conventional oil with zinc so the gaskets can absorb it and stop your leaks. Rotella is trash. Too low a level of zinc for a classic.
@@brentcameron9590 I did an interview with the folks at Driven Racing oil and they had some very enlightening things to say about how additives are added to oil. They have be be added in a certain order AND at the right temperature. In addition. The detergent and additive package in the oil can’t fight the zinc (one is an acid one is a base). So long story short, using a zinc additive isn’t the best move either. I would call the folks at Driven and let them suggest an oil for you, but it’s doubtful you’ll find it at a local auto parts store.
SoundStream Entertainments no bother, but did you watch the video? The chart will tell you the viscosity. I don’t know anything about the engine so I can’t make a recommendation about the chemistry.
Don’t use synthetic in older engines with early stock gaskets. Conventional oil does better to keep the gaskets pliable and not leak. Has nothing to do with zinc levels. There are incredible synthetic or semi synthetic oils on the market that are formulated for flats tappet cams.
@@MuscleCarSolutions so i can use synthetic on my newly rebuilt chevy 350? Its a mild chevy 350 with a edelbrock top end e street kit 315hp with 2000 miles so far.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I’m actually going to try the GP-1 a try. Looks to be really good 👍. I’ve been using lucas classic high zinc 10w-30 but wanted to try something with synthetic in it.
@@MuscleCarSolutions thanks! I already ordered some Driven 10w-30. Im running all Felpro gaskets on my rebuilt chevy 350. I’ll keep an eye on my oil pressure and check the oil to see if it’s burning too fast. Thanks for your videos
@@MuscleCarSolutions thank you sir for your help but is there a difference say if I do a tune-up change gaskets that's the only thing I do do I need to use a different oil or is that HR oil good enough
HR is typically good. You said bone stock and I went down that path of an original engine. Using a conventional base oil will help keep the gaskets soft and in the right condition to keep the leaks at a minimum. If you’ve rebuilt it and using modern gaskets, no problem. The next question would be how much are you driving it? Less than a couple thousand miles a year? HR is where I would go. More than that? Look at the GP-1 line.
UTG did a video about zinc in flat tappet cam engines. Hes been a life long Mopar guy. Rotella has long been used by Mopar fans. I personally wouldn't use it in winter without a good oil warmer, otherwise its thicker than honey. Rotella out preforms regular oil within its same category. Cheapest racing type oil you use in an old engine without the high price. Bob the oil guy also would agree that Rotella is fine for your old engines. It may not be the best for all engines but im sure its still better than anything from the 70s.
Best answer is use the viscosity that the manufacture recommends just that simple. the vast majority of people out there are not engineers in engine design and most are the hillbilly contributors from bob it the oil guy. Follow what is recommended there is no problems
That might be ok for a stock engine where none of the variables have changed. What happens if you’ve built a 383 stroker with aluminum rods and tight main and rod clearances and using E85 fuel? What did the manufacturer recommend for that? Most performance builds don’t have a manufacturers spec.
@@MuscleCarSolutions You have a very good point. Here is a possible solution. What are the tolerances of the engine you then compare those tolerances with similar engines and what they are using. I get what you’re saying
@@wildmanofthewynooch7028 that’s why viscosities are chosen with some major factors involved. Bearing clearances, type of rods/block, type of fuel used, boosted or N/A. Each will push that viscosity number in a different direction. Even if we had a factory CI like a 350 crate engine. Those factors will still force the number in different directions. Driven has a very nice chart on their website that shows those factors and what the recommended viscosity is for each. But it can be pushed around quite a bit as you go through each category. But even that is just half the equation. Picking the right chemistry is even more important!
By that logic you’d be ok with putting gear oil in your crankcase or engine oil in your differential. The better statement would be, the right oil is better than any oil.
If you're engine say 5W 30 and 10W 30 fully synthetic then use the oil it needs just follow your manual the engineering team who built that car knows what it needs and probably the best the key point in making your car last a million miles is to change your oil every 5k 7k miles, don't follow those 20miles intervals it will destroy your engine.
By that logic there are millions of vehicles that the manufacturer uses as 0W-30 oil in that’s wrong? No. Heat is only one factor in determining oil viscosity. Bearing tolerances are much tighter on modern engines. Oil temps are controlled much better than older vehicles. While your comment might have been relevant 50 years ago, today it’s not. If you think that’s thin, you should see the fluid that’s in modern transmissions! It’s thin like water!
Break-in oils are bullshit...use the oil you are going to run. Break-in procedures are bullshit...just start and drive it normally. More than enough ZDDP in modern synthetics even for older engines...don't be that guy that experiments by adding anything to oil because you are doing so blind. 0W and thick oils are bullshit...5W-30 is all that is needed as long as proper oil pressure is maintained. Thicker oils are for air cooled engines and 0W oils are manufacturer bullshit designed for mpg goals, not your engine's longevity.
Take your thoughts to Kasse, Musi, Yates, Shafiroff…or any of the high end street engine builders and see how hard they laugh at those comments. Do you understand how and why different weights are used? There is no one size fits all. Again, ask and reputable builder how they factor what viscosity to run and you’ll learn about bearing clearances, oil operating temperatures, fuel types and pressures from boosted applications. The only thing you did get right is don’t play chemist on your own. But the right oil formulated for YOUR application. Modern oils have a reduced amount of zinc for catalytic converter use. They don’t have what an older, flat tappet engine needs to maintain itself. Not sure where you came up with all this but man am I glad to be able to teach you the missing information. Also watch my interview with Driven Racing Oil. Some good details there for you as well.
@@MuscleCarSolutions You are looking to the wrong folks to choose your oil. Learn to read and note I said 5W30 is the ideal as long as proper hot oil pressure is maintained. Modern oils have more than enough ZDDP, even for flat tappet applications. Works the same at 400 ppm as it does at 1200 ppm...always has and always will. Happy that I am able to educate you on that particular compound. More ZDDP does not equate to more protection...it merely extends the depletion rate which is miniscule btw. If you have any doubts about that you need look no further than millions of used oil samples...you can throw out all the roller cam results if you like. Think logically...ZDDP does not "coat" anything...it is only activated by extreme heat/pressure in localized spots. If you are experiencing dramatic ZDDP depletion you have serious internal problems that no compound is going to repair. Choose your oil based on film strength...that's all you need know to ensure it has a superior additive package. Btw, Driven oils are far behind the pack in film strength and their "break-in" oils are dismal in that regard as well. They are not alone in that respect from all other manufacturers "break-in" oils...folks just keep allowing themselves to be duped. My NHRA Stock Eliminator I/SA 327 uses 5W30 Quaker State synthetic oil reportedly at around 900 ppm ZDDP. You would be hard pressed to come up with another flat tappet engine that takes more abuse and I am not the only one in the game that made the switch years ago. Think we are just lucky? Perhaps better informed...
You hit the nail right on the head.Been a mechanic for almost 5 decades.A lot of people don't like or don't want to educate themselves as things evolve.Convention oils have not been the same since the 90's.Good job on explaining the why you need to use specific oils.
I just put shell rotella 15w-40 in my 81 chevy pickup, runs good and has great oil pressure.
Go search Speediagnostics channel and see the recent video Lake did on why that’s a bad idea. Hard to believe people still fall for the diesel oil scam.
High pressure dont mean much. Flow is what matters pressure is not flow. Your killing your engine slowly.
I ran my break in oil for 500 miles then dropped it for royal purple 10-40(stock bottom end with a lot of miles and a lot of gofast stuff upstairs) in my 95 f150.i don't skimp on oil for any my rigs.I now use driven in my jeep and 95 f150,and mobile 1 in my newer stuff like the sequoia and my super crew f150.
I have a flat tappet 7.4 in my 1995 3500HD service truck and is always under load, Truck weighs 13,000lbs. The book says 10w30, engine has 175k miles. I think I'm gonna go with 10w40 or 15w40 now lol
Go ahaed and blow it up.
15w40 isn't that much thicker oil at operating temperatures.
been building engines since 1969 , i'm a stricked muscle car guy and i've always done a double break in on all mine, i also like a cold break in to hot break in till the engine is ready for road, i've never used addivtives in my oil and i've always used a straight weight Valvoline / Havoline only . my father used it in his stockcar in the 60's never spon a bearing or sezed a ring , at up and down RPM's from 3000 to 7200 for 50 to 100 laps. every thing i learned growing up was at the track, while everybody else started using the new multi function oils the 20/50 junk were losing bearings , because they were trying to run a tighter engine instead of a lose engine! durring builds we'd polish the bearings to make it a bit lose. , a real good broke in lose engine will last a lot longer, but i've never been a fan high detergent oils at all , perhaps if i were building newer style engines i'd have to change .
Interesting! But, how acold break in is done? You smack the engine high rpm and wot while still cool?
@@cmte.brazinazzo2061 No! You start the engine cold, run it to operating temp, then shut it down and let it sit until it's cold again. Rinse/repeat several times. It's the "old way" of doing things. Never hold a new engine or old engine for that matter, at WOT by itself (free wheelin'), unless you like the idea of tossing a rod or two!
What did Detroit do in the day? I think they did a run in, not a "break in" as everyone now dances around. Given the millions of engines built each year that procedure probably was about 4 or 5 minutes per: hook up electricals, cooling and fuel, bust it off then... set curb idle, adjust idle mixture, check for leaks & vibrations/noises, drop a fresh charge of oil in perhaps, then push it out ready for assembly line use or remediation. Granted, there is an important bridge crossed by the bulk of aftermarket cams: ramps are faster, lift is higher - both of which demand higher spring pressures. A warranty kind of cam from the SD oil era was typically under 0.450" lift, and ramps were 30-50 degrees. Fast forward to the flat tappet developments of the 80's/90's with lifts topping 0.540" and 16 degree ramps and... we need better oil period. And since oil companies formulate for the car makers [who can pay for the required petro-chemist work] the road has forked somewhat. I am heartened by Godbolds recent focus on gentler ramps [flat or roller] - it may just save the day, because astm tests at present are not capable of vetting oils serving spin in the bore style tappets at all: IVA and IVB tests use overhead cam engines.
Brew a pot of coffee, search '540ratblog' and prepare to have a few old "everybody knows..." maxims shattered. Maybe the cam world can flex its collective and push to get an astm standard in place vetting oil for flat tappets [using a third party organization for continuous development]? I don't know, but for now things seem to have come full circle to the 1940's again: we're on our own.
@@flinch622 Yeah, well "Detroit" had plenty of money and plenty of engines, they didn't have to worry about it!! We can't hardly afford to build the one engine we've got, so it has to be taken seriously, and we have to try everything we can to make sure it's a success!
@@patrickm.8425 You know what I can't find? Where this "break in" thing all started. I vaguely recall Lunati offering "voodoo juice" in the early 90's but maybe I didn't read enough. A new engine is a conundrum: rings need to seat, but the cam...needs protection. For me? Dress the bores and bless the skirts with break in oil, cap the bottle and put a good oil in the sump. The purpose of break in oil [as always]: increased wear through reduced protection - thats it.
Car companies ignoring warranty liabilities get punished: those come out of profits. That's a very big incentive, but lets focus on logistics. 1969, Chevrolet built 2.06M units. I don't know the history of how their plants ran so I will say 46 weeks a year production: 44,782 engines per week. Assume 3 shifts/5 days and that is 8956 engines a day. Assume 2 hours non productive time a day and that's 407/hour production. A 5 minute run-in needs 34 test bays, a 20 minute needs 135 - that's almost 4x the capital investment in space & equipment... and we haven't even arrived at labor yet. Administering pensions isn't free. But I don't think money was the problem then: that could be passed to the consumer which had more purchasing power than we do today [thanks to Nixon].
First…. Love the vids and your passing on your knowledge/findings/options. Second…. Gonna have to phone a fiend here…. Main clearance .003 tells me 10-40 or 15-40 and my Rod clearance .0026 tells me 5-30 or 10-30 This is on a old 460 now a 514, carbureted pulling a 78 F350 20,000 miles or so (first half in AZ and TX and now in Florida). Which side do I lean more towards? More attention to the low or the high? I might be analyzing this way too much but there are many factors to consider. 10-40 sounds the closest to what I need with my variants but……. Watcha all think? 😉
My certified engine builder told me to stick with 10w40 for my daily driver motor in the southwest. So I'm using conventional 10w40 from Driven on my fresh rebuild after break in oil
Wow. What’s a certified engine builder! 😂 If that’s the weight they told you to run, I’d keep a that in mind as you get it broken in and driving. Bearing clearances, fuel type and oil temps has a lot to do with what weight to run.
Years ago, I rolled through Phoenix around 12:30am - it was 101. Who knows what 2 in the afternoon was. Cars in the southwest get baked.
Driven Hot Rod oil has high zinc. I thought high zinc was only for break-in period. Have a 67 Mustang with 289. All original/stock. Stored in winter. Will Driven Hot Rod oil work for me? Your vids are well done and informative.
I think the preferred way to describe it is correct amount of zinc (and moly). Break in oils have less detergent. That’s generally what makes them unique. The Driven Hot Rod oil will be awesome for your application if it’s an original engine and it gets stored a lot. Thanks for watching! Very much appreciate it!
I got a 351 Cleveland, Now A 408 Stroker Completely built from the top end.. not sure about the bottom end because I just bought it... Aluminum Heads/High Volume Oil Pump Sits Around 60PSI... Supposely it rated around 500HP... Just Finished the break in process. What type of Oil Should I put ? Anyone ? Please ?
Good advice. Double break-in good idea, too. Key phrase for me: "cheap insurance".
The rings take the longest to seat themselves. 400 miles is kind of the standard on a street engine. Running a quality break in oil allows it time to get it done. Very cheap insurance!
What do you mean with the crankshaft clearances ? If you turn a crank undersize and then you use a bearing to make up that difference. Correct me if I am wrong but doesn’t your oil clearance end up the same whether you have stock sized journals or you have .020 undersized journals with the correct bearing to make up the difference,
From my own experience I have several, classic V8 , carbureted , flat tappet littered engines, pre cat converter that I have ran for over 30 years on 20w50 valvoline racing oil with no bearing, ring, cam/lifter failure. That is what was the oil my machinist suggested I use so it has worked for me thus far. I also always add a bottle of STP as well. It works for my stuff, it’s affordable and readily available as well locally. I’m not doubting that this product your suggesting we look into isn’t good but why fix it, if it ain’t broke.
Undersize and clearance are two different things. You can look at that chart Driven publishes on how to determine viscosity based on bearing clearances, oil operating temps, fuel type, boosted or NA. All are determining factors in selecting viscosity.
Choose by Chemistry 1st, weight 2nd, that is golden advise brother. The biggest thing I get from people is "it costs more", but if you do the simple math @ a dollar more a quart, that's only about $5 to save you $5-10,000-ish. Break-In Oil is so very important, but I have to pull my guarantee if it's not used, and the complaint is the cost & that its only good for 500 miles. Again, $50 (or so) to save you $5-10,000, it just makes no sense.
They complain about the cost of the rebuild/build, and then want to put the least expensive, or "what I always use" oil in it. It just baffles me. Point in case: I live in a very rural farm/ranch area. Farmer/Ranchers here buy their Diesel Fleet oil in bulk for all their equipment. Its not uncommon at all to find Used Fords, Chevys, Dodges here with Plugged Cats, because they are changing their own oil with what they already have.
Damn good video, I'll definitely be sharing this for ya.
For some reason you have a better chance of insulting someone’s mother and them inviting you over for Christmas dinner than you have in changing peoples mind about the BRAND of oil they use. Brand is the last thing to consider. And the folks who will say “yeah but I’ve always run xxxx in my engines and never had a problem”, forget that every failure starts at a microscopic level. Get it right and the king term survivability goes up as well as the next rebuild after many miles of service.
In the construction world grease is cheap repairs are expensive,but try to get some people to understand don't spend a dollar to save a penny
If I was building a FT engine today I would use lifters that have a laser hole in them for that extra oil on the cam lobes.
The EDM lifters have been proven to be mostly ineffective.
I do like those on solids, but... they can't fix weak oil. Not even 0.1%. You get a tiny bit of extra cooling, and a faster galley purge on startup. But if I had to pick the better of two options, it would be lifter bore grooving, because more oil on the lobe before the lifter arrives is a no brainer.
Amazing video. Thank you for posting this technical video.
I have a 1970 Pontiac 400 engine in my 1974 Firebird Formula. No idea about bearing clearances etc. I am new to this. I feel like a third grader who stumbled into a college course on Astrophysics. Yikes. Just trying to figure out what is the best oil for my new classic car.
Stock engine? What was the stock recommended viscosity? 10W30? Then go with the Driven GP-1.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Yes. Thank you!
I have a 74 Formula 400 in Denver gold. I just used the Driven break in oil and now looking for a regular performance oil.
Stick with the Driven GP-1.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Thanks!
I have never heard of Driven oils until I started watching Lake Speed Jr.
It sounds like a great oil.
But my Dad and I have been Valvoline guys for as long as I've been alive. I'm 58 now
So I use the VR1 in my Chevelle.
Lake talks highly of that oil too.
@@einstein3509 follow Lakes advice and never choose brand first. Find the right chemistry for the application you’re working on and then find the brand that has those attributes.
@@MuscleCarSolutions
Well let me tell yea. It's getting damn confusing with oil anymore.
Back in the early 80's my dad and I used off the shelf Valvoline oil and never had any issues. I know the Zinc or ZDDP was around 1200ppm i believe.
I'm still using Valvoline today in my 71 Chevelle but it's the VR1 to get that zinc.
The guy that built my engine didn't write down what the bearing clearances were on my paperwork. All he told me was I can run a 10W30 or 10W40 and that he used a 40 grade for break in oil.
Here's my build. what do you recomend?
383 stroker
Aluminum heads
10.2:1 compression
Engine Dyno 500hp 522tq on 87 to 89 octane
3:73 gears ht350 trans so driving down the freeway it runs around 3700rpm's.
My engine temp runs between 170-180
I've raced it a few time but anymore it's a cruiser.
I do like to get on it from time to time but no more all out racing for me. I can't afford the ticket
It was built in 2021
Will VR1 10W30 work okay with you or do you recommend something different?
@@MuscleCarSolutions
Oh I forgot to tell you, It's a roller engine
Your build is slightly more aggressive than mine and I’m using 91 octane, but still just a E10 blend. Mine is also a roller motor and I’m unsure of the bearing clearances (crate engine) but it was also recommended a 10w30. I use the Driven GP-1. They came out with that bends when they took over using the base oil from the famous Kendall refinery. Not a better oil out there. I’m sure the VR is probably fine in your engine. But that oil has changed formulas a few times so it’s not a big stretch to think they won’t again. If it’s a roller motor, the zinc isn’t as big a factor.
I saw top fuellers running straight 70 grade oil. If its good enough for them its good enough for me. I run it in my Mopar small block and never had an issue. Has great oil pressure.
@@andretorben9995 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂👍
When you are saying 25 and 30 thousandths for engine clearances do you mean 2 and a half and 3 thousandths? 25 to 30 thousandths are HUGE numbers for bearing clearances which any engine would not function properly at for over a minute. I am rebuilding my engine in my 1987 Chevy P/U and I will soon be using 5 quarts of Driven break-in oil. I have used it on several of my rebuilds and it does what the company says it will do. Thanks and take care.
Brother you do an amazing job with your videos. Rebuilt my whole fuel system because of it lol. I have a 1964 Falcon with a 1965 289 that stock. No clue what the tolerances are. I’m ready for my first oil change. But I don’t know what to use. I’m in Hawaii so pretty limited. Asked on the group and it was either conventional with additive, diesel oil or VR1. Ugh
You’re asking about viscosity, but the first thing to know would be what type of valvetrain. Since you don’t know anything about the engine, a little inspection will at least tell you what type of cam and lifters are in the engine. You said you’re ready for your first oil change - is this on a newly rebuilt engine or an older engine that you’ve just acquired?
@@MuscleCarSolutions wow thanks for the reply. both weight and type. New to me Falcon. Bone stock so not a roller. I live in Hawaii so never cold. Driven on the weekends.
@@64FalconSprint808 so if you’re comfortable with that assessment, then try the VR1 in the viscosity that the factory called for. Then just monitor pressures and make sure you’re happy with the results. The new formulation on the VR1 is excellent. Go check out Lake Speed Jrs channel - The Motor Oil Geek and you’ll find a video he did on it recently.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I watched a couple on the VR1. Sounds like they changed the formula. No sulphur and less calcium was it.?. Thanks for the reply. Your blessing of a product means a lot. Now if I figure out why it starts crappy after it’s warmed up lol. Save that for another video comment. Cheers
Glad I don't use a solid flat tappet cam. I use a good brand of oil 10w30 or 40 in my 460 bbf (mild build) and change it often. I use Mfg recommened oil in my 2015 Camaro and my 2015 F-150 and change often. Ford Quick lane now charge $80 plus 2% if you pay by credit/debit card for their complete oil chage including tire rotation. Use to get for a tad over $30 with coupon, so I do it myself now for around $35.
The most valuable engine oil on UA-cam five stars
Best one for a Bone stock trans am SD-455, valve cover sticker says 10w30 or 40, car has high mileage.
Driven GP-1. amzn.to/3K30y3o
@@MuscleCarSolutionsthink you missed this is a high mile likely pretty worn poncho 455 where facttory rec 10w-30 or 10w-40 do it’s better to run the slightly thicker 10-40 due to high mikes & wear.
But if it were my car/motor I’d rec he run 15w-40 GP-1 in it.
10-30 is not the best choice for a high mile old school large disp 455 of the 60’s-70’s that will have wider clearances everywhere for the thinner 10-30 yo get past.
I rec the thicker 15w cold/base Wt oil because it makes the oil a bit more resistance to viscosity breakdown/sheer.
Depending on just how worn this old school high mile 455 is & temperature it runs in it could be a candidate for GP-1 20w-50 too.
Hello,
Very interesting stuff!
I have a 1969 Mustang with a rebuilt 351W with stroker crank, roller cam and AFR aluminum heads. Original block. This will be a street cruiser most of the time. Do you have enough information to recommend an oil?
Need just a hair more info. What type of cam are you running? If you know your bearing clearances we can talk viscosity also.
Thanks herbert
Run shell rotella T5 15-40 or t-6 15-40 and send it! If you want to add a half a bottle of zddp for extra help if you have flat tappet cam!
Rotella is blended with an additive pack for cleaning diesel particulate. Not the best choice for a gas powered engine. Playing chemist with an addictive that is attacked by the detergent in that API oil is another strike.
Great video. What would you recommend for a built 351m with forged 4032 autotec pistons with 1.5mm rings and 3mm oil control ring, full retrofit roller valvetrain with Morel hydraulic lifter, steel comp rockers stud mounted? I am at 5000 feet altitude in northern Colorado. That Driven oil seems like a good one. Not sure if i need a high zinc oil for roller cam. Thanks.
The more I’ve used the Driven GP-1 oil, the more I like it. I’ve got a really long test in process where I’ll be going by the Speed Diagnostix oil analysis to gauge how a few different oils protect an engine, but I’ll generally always recommend Driven. Your viscosity choice will boil down to bearing clearances, fuel type and how you’re using the vehicle and how often. Give the folks at Driven a call but my guess is they’ll push you towards the GP-1 if you’re putting a decent amount of miles on each year.
Mixing different oil viscosity?
I’m using Valvoline VR1 synthetic.
All I can find is 10W30 and 20W50
Can I mix the 2 viscosity’s to make a difference viscosity?
I found an on line a viscosity calculator and according to that with my 7 quart system. If I mix 3 quarts of 10W30 with 4 quarts of 20W50 I’ll come up with roughly a 15W40.
Is it okay to mix viscosity’s like
good video but you are misreading your clearances, by a wide margin for instance .0034 is 3.4 thou not 34 thou. that should change your oil choice
So what oil to use on flat tappet cam musclecar/ponycar engines WITH a catalytic converter (circa 1975 to 1987)? For instance, what oil to use on my stock, factory original ‘79 Pontiac 400 V8 in a tenth anniversary edition Trans Am collector car, all matching numbers, 4-speed, 43k miles?? Driven only occasionally on nice days, but thoroughly exercised after warm when driven. Owner’s manual says 10W-40 motor oil, “SE” was the API oil rating back then-conventional ‘dino’ oil, of course. No, I’m not going to cut off the cat and install a “test pipe.” Everything seems to indicate that it needs more zinc than today’s “shelf oils” offer, but the specialty oils now with extra zinc say “not for use in catalytic converter vehicles”!
That's the grey area that no one likes to talk about.
Honda says 3000 miles for break-in oil, and no more than half throttle for first 600 miles according to owner manual
Any suggestions please, I just bought a used 06 Holden GTO (Ls1 v8 Chevy engine) with 70,000 mile. The previous owner always uses a 20w 50 oil and he recommended me to use the same type. However I feel that this heavy viscosity will do more damage to the car. Any recommendations please on what viscosity or oil type should I use?
The car is not modified at all and will be used one hour a day conservatively. Our climate is always the same all around the 4 seasons (25C° in the early morning and 40C° at noon and around 35C° in the evening ) it is toooo hot and humid 🥵.
Please any suggestions, I'm really lost 🙄
Any thoughts on running break in oil as a every change oil? As in for the life of the occasionally run engine? Also what about Marvel Mystery oil as an additive?
Break in oil has no detergent qualities. Those are needed. It also doesn’t have long term storage properties which is needed on an engine that doesn’t see much driving time. Look at Driven’s HR series of oils if that’s the situation you’re in.
Motor oil is great, but what about equally as good oil filter, any thoughts on which oil filter to go with? The Frams and Bosh dont seem to do well and are cheaply manufactured.
Yup. Like many others, I prefer one that’s solidly built. ua-cam.com/video/Aa4xGb7g2Vs/v-deo.html
Project farm YT channel did an in depth comparrison on oil filters. Fram is junk from the findings. Check out that video on filters and then motor oils. Walmart super tech was one of the top oils. Like MSC said, it's not the brand it is what is in it.
@@robertclymer6948 the base filters Fram puts out is junk but they do have or had one line that was pretty good. I'm a Wix guy but there's a lot of good filters out there.
What oil would you recommend after the break in oil? For the first oil changes in the first few thousand miles
Just like the video says, the one with the right chemistry for your application. I can’t make any recommendations. I don’t know what you’re working on.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I know. According to the chart I need a 5w20 or a 5w30. But is it okay to use a full synthetic in the first few thousand miles? Will it seat the rings properly?
@@laurensvanpeperstraten9294 if you’ve run the break in oil for the first 4-500 miles, they will be worn in sufficiently.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Allright thanks!!!
@@laurensvanpeperstraten9294 always good to get a recommendation directly from the manufacturer. The Driven folks will get you set in the right direction for sure. Have fun!
I have a 1948 Chevy Fleetline with an original 216 engine. I use NAPA 40 do you recommend any other better oil Sir?
I don’t have a clue what the properties are with that Napa oil. Typically the straight weight oils have a decent amount of zinc and moly to work with the older engines, but I don’t know with that oil.
Valvoline racing oil is not off the shelf oil that simple has more zinc added to it.
Im using only 10w-40 with zinc on my 75 K5 Blazer.
so where do you find out what the best chemistry is for your engine? I just picked up a 1984 dodge d150 with a 318. All stock at the moment, and only 67,000 original km's. Where would a guy go looking for what the right chemistry is?
Sounds like a nice thee minute phone call to the folks at Driven!
To start a fight, ask if you should use manifold vac advance of ported. I have seen people even fight with themselves over that!!! I know the right answer. 😂
Holley suggests the time port on the 750 cfm 4160 I bought. However, I run MSD mechanical advance so don't use it.
@@robertclymer6948 the answer is … it depends how your distributor is timed. If it’s timed for manifold, use manifold vacuum. If distributor is timed for ported, than use ported.
The new 7.3 ford Godzilla has been having lifter failure. It’s suspected that it’s due to improper lubricantion due to the 5-30 blended oil. It’s a push rod engine. Would you recommend10-40 ??
Blend wouldn’t be an excessive factor. Chemistry on the other hand for sure would be and potentially viscosity. I’m assuming the 5w-30 is the factory spec. You could try a full synthetic in the same weight. I hadn’t heard any issues but that Godzilla motor hasn’t really taken off like everyone hoped it would. Maybe ford will up the production and get more cores into the market in the next 10-15 years. For now it seems like it’s been a dud.
@@MuscleCarSolutions it has 95k miles and the seller uses 10-30 motor craft blend . Ford calls for 5-30
Good grief this is tough. I have a mid 60's high compression Olds that's never been opened up and choosing an oil up here in Canada seems impossible. I don't see any of these high zinc options up here other than something like 20w-50, which I'm not putting in. I've been using Rotella T4 until now but apparantly that isn't a good idea either.
@@ourkid2000 what part of Canada are you located?
@@MuscleCarSolutions East coast, the Maritimes
@@MuscleCarSolutions I don't need the"best" oil, I just need something I don't have to worry about and it seems impossible. I've heard not to use synthetic on an old engine like mine as it will probably start weeping oil so then I'm happy to use whatever conventional oil that isn't going to kill my cam. '66 Toronado by the way! Bone stock, never touched!
Lucas would argue with you .i alway use Supertech10w30 with Lucas and take it down the strip .coffee filter for my air filter it's all good pro😉$1.00 for 100 filter can't beat it and and baking soda for car interior to suck up all the smells 35 cents man😉it's all I'm giving no more .drive and save is what I say. Change your oil every 3000 it will last you 300.000 just stay with the rule before changing them😉
Here's one thing that kind of frustrates me on this "break-in" stuff... one of the things we get told is that we are supposed to keep the engine RPM about 2500 and fluctuate it between 2500 and 2800 in 10 minute intervals (depending on which engine break-in group you want to listen to). When you ask why you need to run the engine this fast and fluctuate the rpm's, you're told because you need the oil to be flung up onto the camshaft lobes from the crankshaft to lubricate them.
What a load of nonsense!! The camshaft and lifters are absolutely saturated with oil via the lifter bores, at least on a BBC they are! It's pretty easy to leave the intake manifold off, fill the pan with oil, then spin the oil pump with a drill and sit there and watch in amazement at the oil that is flooding the camshaft and lifters! No special lifters with expensive holes "laser" drill into them, no special magic, just pure oil flooding the camshaft!
So why are we lied to about needing the crankshaft to fling oil upon the camshaft and lifters? (I've never built a Ford or Mopar, so maybe these engines are inefficient and need help, I don't know). Also, using an aftermarket windage tray and crank scraper isn't going to allow much oil to be getting tossed around anyway!
So I wonder why I should trust these people who tell me this stuff, when they lie to me in the first place? Like BradPenn (PennGrade 1) who still claim that their base oil is a Pennsylvania base crude oil, when it's a complete lie!! Why should I trust someone and their product, who's going to lie to me? And that's advertising! Everyone claims to have the greatest oil for your engine, when it's clearly not true!
I remember back in the day (1980's) when we would build engines, go to the store and buy VR1, coat our bearings and cam and cylinders, start the engine and drive it for 100 miles or so. Then check oil filter, and if everything was good, fill with fresh VR1, and go beat the hell out of it, and NEVER, EVER have any problems at all!
I think the problem today is the metallurgy! Junk parts make junk engines! And oil companies have ALWAYS lied!! Good luck all!
Every single competent engine builder and cam manufacturer would disagree with that sentiment. That RPM is absolutely needed, but it’s also the initial heat for those two surfaces to begin to work together. It’s not a new concept. You’re welcome to see the series I have on why flat tappet cams fail. I’m finishing up the final video in that series now on lifters. There is some very enlightening information in those videos. Plus I have an interview with Billy Godbold that you also might also enjoy.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I'm totally fine with them disagreeing with me, it's cool. But we have NEVER had as many cam failures as we have today, there is something else going on besides just people using the wrong oil, etc.
Heat cycling engines is nothing new, we've been doing that as long as I can remember, that's all part of the process.
Also, I have watched guys all my life run their engines in with the valve covers on and not paying any attention to the pushrods. Most of the time it works out OK, but when a lifter/lobe fails, they don't even realize it until there is a horrible noise coming from the engine, and by then, the engine is in need of a rebuild. Never could understand that one.
Awesome, I look forward to your new videos on the subject!
@@patrickm.8425 yup, you’re very correct. The last ten years have been awful for flat tappet cams. Why? That’s what I wanted to uncover and show in that cam series. It’s never one thing in this equation. Oil just happens to be one reason why. The whole beginning of Driven Racing Oil was the Gibbs team wiping out cams 20 years ago. The formulation changed drastically. Hey I even interviewed Lake Speed JR if you want to hear it from him directly!
I've got a 1969 Hurst Olds with a 455 what weight and brand should I use??? I had an oil change and the shop put in 5w20 full synthetic it's leaking a lot of oil I've been putting in 5w20 synthetic blend valving high mileage
Is it a factory original engine? If it is you shouldn’t be using synthetic. Run a conventional oil. Your gaskets will appreciate it.
I HAVE 1993 FORD ECONOLINE 302 ENGINE 160 000 MILES NO CATALYTIC FORD RECOMENDS 10W 30 WHAT IS A GOOD OIL TO USE FOR MY VAN, THANK YOU.
I’d use what the manufacturer called for. Unless it’s been rebuilt and has some valvetrain issues to address.
Great video 👍
Joseph Genovese appreciate that! Thank you.
What kind of oil would be best for a '70 Chevelle SS 396 that was rebuilt with roller components? The engine was rebuilt before I ever bought it so I don't know the clearances. I've heard that you have to use a thinner weight due to the needs of the roller components. Where do you find the balance?
Got lots of people who will have a hydraulic roller cam with mildly tight clearance running 20w-50 and the thing is extremely noisy. The lifters hate it. The wheel on the lifter hates it. Crazy.
You’re probably safe to start with a 10w-30 and see how it sounds. As long as oil pressure is good and oil temp is good you should be ok. Hard thing about an unknown engine. Never know what they used.
I have a 1979 Camaro/350 motor. I have been running Q.S. 10w30 full synthetic with Rislone zddp additive. So you would say not to do so?
The trouble with arbitrarily mixing and off the shelf detergent oil and a zinc additive is they don’t always mix and they don’t always mix immediately. I did an interview with the folks from Driven Racing oil and they gave some detail on how oils are blended. All the ingredients aren’t just dumped into a container, stirred and it’s done. Each additive goes in at a certain time and at a certain temperature so the molecules will bond and not attack each other. When you dump a zinc additive into a detergent oil, the detergent tries to kill the zinc.
@@MuscleCarSolutions Thank's for your reply.
How am I supposed to know what my oil temp is on a stock car? use coolant temp?
@@jadongh1 oil temp and coolant temp are two very different things. If you’re a stock engine. Then go with the viscosity that the manufacturer recommended.
For a 2jzge engine what viscosity would you recommend? Im using oil between changes using shell rotella 10w30
I would contact Driven and let them get the right solution for that engine.
i would just get rid of that engine for something that has more balls. especially if its using oil
Can you recommend a better oil for a 2020 Dodge Challenger 6.4 Scat Pack ? These Hemi engines have been known to have Lifter ticks, failed lifters, chewed up cams., So I'm thinking that perhaps the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum SRT 0w40 oil is not enough. I will appreciate if you can recommend a better oil, or oil with additive to help prevent issues. I was thinking of going with Redline Ow40 100 percent synthetic with high zinc racing oil. Not the off the shelf. Their higher performance version., But again I'm not sure if that is the right way to go. My car is a daily, doesn't see much traffic, and I would like to start tracking it at least once a month.
You can’t run an oil with high zinc levels. Not on a car with catalytic converters. I’d call Driven and see what they recommend. As far as the lifters go, there’s really only one way to handle that situation and unfortunately it’s not with oil. You’ve likely got a lifter swap in your future. Good news is you can make a cam swap at the same time and give that gen3 hemi a little more power!
@@MuscleCarSolutions Thank you Sir, I will contact Driven for advice. I appreciate your reply. Regarding the Cats. I'm going to replace with a test pipe, and out adaptors on the sensors to prevent the engine light trigger. No emissions testing where I'm at. There is a channel I follow on hemi. The mechanic says exactly what you stated. Hellcat lifters or better, and cam swap. I think a custom grind would be best. You see my engine has the mds lifters unfortunately, just like the 5.7. it seems that's where the problem lies. Hellcats don't seem to have that issue with solid lifters. I love be naturally aspirated Engines. I don't plan to super charge, it turbo charge. Just a few bolt ONS and have some fun. Mid life Crisis bro. Lol. Also trying to enjoy combustion engines before it's all over.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I'm glad i saw this comment. I have a 6.4 392 as well looking for solutions aside from Amsoil. Can you expound as to why Zinc isn't recommended?
Two things: Were you paid or sponsored by driven in any way? And I'd say a rock solid 90-95% of guys don't know the tolerences in their engines especially if it isn't a fresh rebuild. What is your suggestion for them?
I’d love to be sponsored by Driven, but no, I’m not. Everything you see in my videos other than two I did for a company named Vevor was 100% purchased by me and no sponsorship. My reviews are my own and mine alone. Even on those sponsored products. If it’s good, I’ll express that. If there’s problems, I’ll express that too.
I see you have a 289 I have a stock 289 in my 64 falcon I bought not long ago. Time for my first oil change. I have no clue what the tolerances are. While he goes into great detail IF you built the engine. I’m just not wanting to destroy my engine. What oil do you use? I asked online and it was either diesel oil or Valvaline VR1. I choose VR1.
How about a 1976 olds rocket v8 w/ 76k miles w/ catalytic converter
Sounds like you’re restricted by that cat.
Mobil 1 15w50 ...heavy yes but flows fast...pour point of -39 c...also advertised as having 1300 ppm of zinc and 1200 ppm of phosphorus.
Weight and chemistry mean nothing. Matching it up correctly to the individual engine looking for specific requirements is everything.
Weight and chemistry mean nothing?
@@stevenbelue5496 lol...thats what i was thinking.
The clearances on the chart were incorrectly stated. NOT 25 thousandths. It’s 25 ten thousandths.
Yep, everytime he said "Twenty thousandths" I shook my head. Lol, but we know what he meant.
I put 10w40 in my 72 mach 1 mustang 351 Cleveland is that okay?
We covered that in the video.
Thanks
You’re welcome.
What's the difference between GP1 vs HR1?
Main difference is the GP-1 is a synthetic blend. So if you’re on a newer rebuild, it’s perfectly fine to use. The HR oils are all conventional oils. Better for older original gasket and seal engines. Great for long term storage. The GP oils are every day, driver type oils. Best way I can explain it. Give the folks at Driven a call.
what oil shoul i use on 1978 chrysler with 400 engine?
Assuming it’s still a flat tappet engine. Kind of an odd one there as it’s likely still got a catalytic converter on it so a high zinc oil can play hell with it. Call Driven and get their recommendation. Let me know what they tell you.
I have a 70s sbc 350. Probably never been rebuilt. She’s a little tired but runs good and a tad hot. Previous owner says he THINKS he ran Rotella T 15w-40 in her. I put in 10w-30 recently now have a bigger oil leak. Recommendations please. Thanks in advance
If it’s an original gasket engine, you need to run a full conventional oil with zinc so the gaskets can absorb it and stop your leaks. Rotella is trash. Too low a level of zinc for a classic.
I put in Valvoline 10w-40 syn blend max life with Lucas zinc additive. What oil would you recommend from a parts store?
@@brentcameron9590 I did an interview with the folks at Driven Racing oil and they had some very enlightening things to say about how additives are added to oil. They have be be added in a certain order AND at the right temperature. In addition. The detergent and additive package in the oil can’t fight the zinc (one is an acid one is a base). So long story short, using a zinc additive isn’t the best move either. I would call the folks at Driven and let them suggest an oil for you, but it’s doubtful you’ll find it at a local auto parts store.
I can pick up Lucas Conventional 10W-40
@@brentcameron9590 as long as it has the proper amount of zinc and moly, then that’s your oil.
Would you recommend royal with zinc for 77 350 high mileage
SoundStream Entertainments I do not recommend using royal purple.
@@MuscleCarSolutions any recommendations as I'm soon to do oil change sorry to bother
SoundStream Entertainments no bother, but did you watch the video? The chart will tell you the viscosity. I don’t know anything about the engine so I can’t make a recommendation about the chemistry.
I hear not to use synthetic in classic engines with flat tappet is this true?
Don’t use synthetic in older engines with early stock gaskets. Conventional oil does better to keep the gaskets pliable and not leak. Has nothing to do with zinc levels. There are incredible synthetic or semi synthetic oils on the market that are formulated for flats tappet cams.
@@MuscleCarSolutions so i can use synthetic on my newly rebuilt chevy 350? Its a mild chevy 350 with a edelbrock top end e street kit 315hp with 2000 miles so far.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I’m actually going to try the GP-1 a try. Looks to be really good 👍. I’ve been using lucas classic high zinc 10w-30 but wanted to try something with synthetic in it.
@@armygreenfj3924 modern gaskets and seals; yes you can use a synthetic oil and long as the formulation is correct for the valvetrain.
@@MuscleCarSolutions thanks! I already ordered some Driven 10w-30. Im running all Felpro gaskets on my rebuilt chevy 350. I’ll keep an eye on my oil pressure and check the oil to see if it’s burning too fast. Thanks for your videos
How about for a bone stock 1968 Buick Skylark
If it’s the original engine and still has the original gaskets and seals then use a conventional oil. Driven’s HR series is what you need.
@@MuscleCarSolutions thank you sir for your help but is there a difference say if I do a tune-up change gaskets that's the only thing I do do I need to use a different oil or is that HR oil good enough
HR is typically good. You said bone stock and I went down that path of an original engine. Using a conventional base oil will help keep the gaskets soft and in the right condition to keep the leaks at a minimum. If you’ve rebuilt it and using modern gaskets, no problem. The next question would be how much are you driving it? Less than a couple thousand miles a year? HR is where I would go. More than that? Look at the GP-1 line.
I have a 67 Wildcat. I use Rotella T4 15w40 but 10 psi at idle 😱
UTG did a video about zinc in flat tappet cam engines. Hes been a life long Mopar guy.
Rotella has long been used by Mopar fans. I personally wouldn't use it in winter without a good oil warmer, otherwise its thicker than honey.
Rotella out preforms regular oil within its same category. Cheapest racing type oil you use in an old engine without the high price.
Bob the oil guy also would agree that Rotella is fine for your old engines. It may not be the best for all engines but im sure its still better than anything from the 70s.
Go watch this video from an actual oil expert. ua-cam.com/video/7gkegS8wM88/v-deo.htmlsi=gxP6MvFN5mXxqi6N
UTG's engines are junk, all burn oil and make no power.
will canola oil work in an ls corvette engine?
Best answer is use the viscosity that the manufacture recommends just that simple. the vast majority of people out there are not engineers in engine design and most are the hillbilly contributors from bob it the oil guy. Follow what is recommended there is no problems
That might be ok for a stock engine where none of the variables have changed. What happens if you’ve built a 383 stroker with aluminum rods and tight main and rod clearances and using E85 fuel? What did the manufacturer recommend for that? Most performance builds don’t have a manufacturers spec.
@@MuscleCarSolutions
You have a very good point. Here is a possible solution. What are the tolerances of the engine you then compare those tolerances with similar engines and what they are using. I get what you’re saying
@@wildmanofthewynooch7028 that’s why viscosities are chosen with some major factors involved. Bearing clearances, type of rods/block, type of fuel used, boosted or N/A. Each will push that viscosity number in a different direction. Even if we had a factory CI like a 350 crate engine. Those factors will still force the number in different directions. Driven has a very nice chart on their website that shows those factors and what the recommended viscosity is for each. But it can be pushed around quite a bit as you go through each category. But even that is just half the equation. Picking the right chemistry is even more important!
Amsoil best on the market.
Brand is never the place to start when picking an oil. Chemistry to match the application is where to look.
Any Oil Is Better Than No Oil.
By that logic you’d be ok with putting gear oil in your crankcase or engine oil in your differential. The better statement would be, the right oil is better than any oil.
If you're engine say 5W 30 and 10W 30 fully synthetic then use the oil it needs just follow your manual the engineering team who built that car knows what it needs and probably the best the key point in making your car last a million miles is to change your oil every 5k 7k miles, don't follow those 20miles intervals it will destroy your engine.
All those OE specs go out the window when you’re rebuilding an engine.
if you are living in a southern state do not put 0w20 in your engine.
By that logic there are millions of vehicles that the manufacturer uses as 0W-30 oil in that’s wrong? No. Heat is only one factor in determining oil viscosity. Bearing tolerances are much tighter on modern engines. Oil temps are controlled much better than older vehicles. While your comment might have been relevant 50 years ago, today it’s not. If you think that’s thin, you should see the fluid that’s in modern transmissions! It’s thin like water!
please stop touching the bottles, making me nervous lol
Lol
just buy ci-4 oil
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Break-in oils are bullshit...use the oil you are going to run. Break-in procedures are bullshit...just start and drive it normally. More than enough ZDDP in modern synthetics even for older engines...don't be that guy that experiments by adding anything to oil because you are doing so blind. 0W and thick oils are bullshit...5W-30 is all that is needed as long as proper oil pressure is maintained. Thicker oils are for air cooled engines and 0W oils are manufacturer bullshit designed for mpg goals, not your engine's longevity.
Take your thoughts to Kasse, Musi, Yates, Shafiroff…or any of the high end street engine builders and see how hard they laugh at those comments. Do you understand how and why different weights are used? There is no one size fits all. Again, ask and reputable builder how they factor what viscosity to run and you’ll learn about bearing clearances, oil operating temperatures, fuel types and pressures from boosted applications. The only thing you did get right is don’t play chemist on your own. But the right oil formulated for YOUR application. Modern oils have a reduced amount of zinc for catalytic converter use. They don’t have what an older, flat tappet engine needs to maintain itself. Not sure where you came up with all this but man am I glad to be able to teach you the missing information. Also watch my interview with Driven Racing Oil. Some good details there for you as well.
@@MuscleCarSolutions You are looking to the wrong folks to choose your oil. Learn to read and note I said 5W30 is the ideal as long as proper hot oil pressure is maintained. Modern oils have more than enough ZDDP, even for flat tappet applications. Works the same at 400 ppm as it does at 1200 ppm...always has and always will. Happy that I am able to educate you on that particular compound. More ZDDP does not equate to more protection...it merely extends the depletion rate which is miniscule btw. If you have any doubts about that you need look no further than millions of used oil samples...you can throw out all the roller cam results if you like. Think logically...ZDDP does not "coat" anything...it is only activated by extreme heat/pressure in localized spots. If you are experiencing dramatic ZDDP depletion you have serious internal problems that no compound is going to repair. Choose your oil based on film strength...that's all you need know to ensure it has a superior additive package. Btw, Driven oils are far behind the pack in film strength and their "break-in" oils are dismal in that regard as well. They are not alone in that respect from all other manufacturers "break-in" oils...folks just keep allowing themselves to be duped. My NHRA Stock Eliminator I/SA 327 uses 5W30 Quaker State synthetic oil reportedly at around 900 ppm ZDDP. You would be hard pressed to come up with another flat tappet engine that takes more abuse and I am not the only one in the game that made the switch years ago. Think we are just lucky? Perhaps better informed...
@@rickss69 you lost any credibility with your first sentence. 😂 everything after that was just your ignorance.