Save more money and don’t change it. my daily has been going since 2013 with 1 oil change. When it blows up, I’ll yank my plates off and leave the title in the glovebox and call the scrapyard to come get it.
Man you explained it in a way that I'll never forget it FOR LIFE. Don't worry about the word thickness vs viscosity we definitely understood. The honey or syrup analogy nailed it! Great explanation and great video. And thanks to the guys at Total.
For the latest oil specifications, go to your vehicle manufacturer's website once per year in order to check for an updated list of approved spec oils. You might be able to now choose a 5w-20 full synthetic when the owner's manual calls for 5w30. The thinner the oil that you are permitted to use, will result in much better fuel economy. Many times the season will be calculated in figuring out which spec oil to use. On many vehicles, the 20w50 summer time spec dino oil, can now be replaced with with 5w50 or 10w60 full synthetic winter time, this gets better cold weather startup, and extended high speed driving protection when fully warmed up.
Thank you for making this video, it's informative and educational. This cleared up a lot of questions concerning choices of what weight and how semi synthetic affect a vehicle.
Let me add my 2 cents from actual experience with Supertech. I had a 2004 Chevy 3500 Duramax that I hauled campers with. I drove in every type of environment from high heat in desert to blizzards in Wyoming, drove in mountains to flats, straight roads to curvy roads. So to save money I decided to use Supertech oil. I didn't think much of it but I noticed my truck using oil and thought it was normal considering how much towing I was doing. Some guys I work with were talking one day about motor oils and how pretty much every single one of them used Rotella. So I decided the next time I got my oil change I would give it a try. To my surprise my truck not only stopped using oil, but my fuel mileage went up also and all I did was switch from Supertech to Rotella. So yes I would have to say there is a difference between quality oil and Supertech.
And by design to make money. Test your oil after 3000 miles. It is not even close to being broke down. The oils today hardly break down. Changing oil every 3000 miles is a waste of money. Always use mobile one extended milage oil. It's good for at least 15,000 miles.
@@Ecoscienceczar That's a lot, though... I would never exceed 10.000 mi in any car, even with full synthetic. And honestly, if anything, it's even better for your engine to change it slightly sooner. You won't harm it. I wouldn't change it every 3.000 mi either, though (except if it's a very old engine / barely runs / is very worn and you'd like to use it for a couple more years).
News Flash! Most of the well known engine oil brands have a 'Which Oil' selector on their website which you can use to easily get quoted the right oil for your vehicle. Same with oil filters. Select your preferred brand and use the filter manufacturer's website to get the right filter. Nothing complicated at all. Happy motoring folks!
I work in an autoparts store and what we tell the customer is that for non-highend or non-luxury cars, after one hundred or one hundred twenty five thousand miles you have to start using higher viscosity oil than what the manual recommends. The manual may say 0w-20 or 5w-20 but that's only if it were newer. Once you're in the high mileage range your car will need thicker oil for better lubrication and protection. I would advise them to move up to 10w-30 or so.
oil change intervals are designed to support major oil cos, the most important part of a change schedule is the filter, most of the filters are very small anymore so they should be changed more often,if you change the filter more often you can run the oil longer as the only thing that goes wrong with oil it gets dirty, clean it and you can continue to use it
exactly and add new to the full mark, change fully maybe once every other regular oil change depending how much driving idle time andwhat conditions you drive in dirt roads are terrible so changing more is necesary@@videosurfah
@@joescheller6680 Its not dirt its carbon blow by ,when running oil to long the protection package drops out leaving crappy base oil ( no protection ) we spend 30 to 90k on our vehicles don't cheap out CHANGE THE OIL ! I change mine ( full syn. ) every 5k . I have a small Euro shop about 1300 customers they all come in at 5 k miles. the best part NO oil leaks the seals love it , that alone justifies early chang out , do the math.
I just change the oil once a year in my VR6 GTI (2003) at the dealership using Castrol Edge 5W-40. I only put about 5 to 6 thousand miles a year on the car... usually short local trips to and fro. Have had the car 16 years with no issues whatsoever! Then again, I only have 89,000 miles on it, original owner.
My turbo charged Jeep came with instructions to use 100% synthetic and it even specified what grade of synthetic. There are ratings on the bottles to compare. I recently learned that synthetic oil can withstand higher temperatures before it begins to harden and stick to engine surfaces. Since a turbo is the hottest place on an engine it only makes sense to use the toughest high temp tolerant oil available.
High quality engine oil doesn't come from the ground its engineered in a laboratory often from natural gas. The drain interval in the owners manual is for conventional oil (unless its factory filled with synthetic).
cant believe you just said that, natural gas is basically just that, liquid turned into vapor, it may be used to make synthetic in some sort of heat process but in no way a lubricating application
Fond memories! I worked as Blending Lab supervisor at ERCA Esso's research centre in the UK. Formulating an engine oil is an art form and millions are spent getting the mix of ingredients just right. Oil's ain't oils!
I work at a gas station, and most of the people that buys oil are saying that their oil light started shining.. Also pulled up a oilstick form a subaru boxer and the stick was dry, and the ladie didnt know that it was bad to run the car with low oil...
Man... All I have ever driven since 1974 is a 1st Generation Monte Carlo. These 350 engines are some of the most credible ones built, and I just use 10W-30W with Bestline Oil Treatment and drive the car easy all the time. While others speed past me because they're going to get another car in 2 or 3 years anyway. However, all the time, people ask to buy the car I drive, or give me looks as I drive by. While others tell me, I drive a "Real Car"....
i have developed a high grade of respect for Total as an automotive lubricant provider. I'm convinced and going to try it for my lightly modified type-r.
This is how informative self help videos should be done. This guy is more than some shade tree mechanic giving his 2 cents on why you should do this or not do that with absolutely no presentation of his credentials. . This guy went to the oil company and then shared what he learned. This gives him credibility. Well done Sir !
In the summary you said, "change it regularly". The Chemist said to follow the manufacturer's recommendations. Changing the oil at 3,000 miles is a useless waste if the manufacturer suggests changing it at 5,000 miles. Listen again beginning at 14:15. You also indicated that the brand does not matter if it has the correct specifications. The Chemist stressed it has to say approved by the manufacturer. Presumably some oil with similar stated specifications are not approved by the manufacturer and may have a problem. It may be ok but simply not tested but who wants to take that chance. I worked for an automotive seal manufacturer. Our Chemist told me that it did not matter what brand of oil I used but do not mix brands. He added that the individual additives in major brands are ok but if mixed, some mixtures would "eat" the seals.
The ONLY true synthetic By Total I know of, is the 0w-30 a3/b4 euro oil and is the only synthetic sold here.I e. PAO bro Is and Grp V esters. Most shit is not grp 4 or 5 and I applaud Total for telling the truth.
Probably THE best car car video I have ever watched. Extremely informative and an eye opener. I best check my oil in my VW. She's an old girl now and I want to keep her running.
Well the reality is that the Owners Manual isn't ALWAYS the best thing to do! Especially with older cars as new tech comes out. My 94 Integra recommends 5w or 10w30 oil depending on climate. I use 0w30 full synthetic to help reduce engine wear at cold startup, and I'd like to think that is partly why the engine still runs great at 362,000 miles. Back in 1994 there was no such thing as 0w30 oil. Since most engine wear occurs during cold starting, you want the thinnest oil possible when cold. 0w is still thicker than what's needed at operating temperature, so any engine that requires 5w or 10w30 can use 0w30, and any engine that requires 5w20 can use 0w20.
They have had straight 30 weight oil sense the 60's. Oil pump design and clearance aswell as oil galley design just gooping in heavier weight thinking it means more protection it doesnt film strenth gives you that. Whatbyou have done is slowed ur drain back likely raised ur oil temp.
You got it backwards , you are causing more wear , the 5w is what the oil thickness is when started cold , it's thinner to flow better . Your using a thicker oil on start up , harder to flow and harder on the oil pump as well . You are causing more wear by doing this
That VTEC 4 cylinder engine you have can probably tolerate the thinner synthetic oil that you use because it revs higher than most cars but it is not good advice to tell others to use a thinner oil at startup than what is recommended. The best advice is to warm up your car to prolong engine life and I am sure you already do this.
Your way to understand oil viscosity aka thickness might be rudimentary to some but it made perfect sense to me. Especially the maple syrup part. It also made me want pancakes. Doh!
One thing you didn't learn is what exactly is a synthetic oil? What is it made of and what are the differences between it and convention oils? It can't be additives, because they can add additives to anything. Conventional oils have additives.
One way to look at Multi Viscosity oil and understand it, is this. It is a temperature related performance rating of the oil at two different temperatures. At 0 degrees Celsius and at 100 degrees Celsius. Given a 5W30 oil, what that means is the oil will behave the same, viscosity wise, at 100 degrees centigrade than a conventional straight 30 weight oil behaves at 100 degrees Celsius. And at 0 degrees centigrade the oil will behave the same, viscosity wise, at 0 degrees centigrade than a conventional straight 5 weight oil behaves at 0 degrees Celsius. The viscosity unit of measurement is Centipoise or when density is considered, Centistokes.
Video was good but I felt like he wanted to say you can change up your oil brands and weights depending on application. But if he said that, Total could be liable for people putting gear lube as their oil and blowing their motor.
Your oil specialist you spoke to he sure reminded me of one of the characters from the 80's movie Revenge of the Nerds don't forget ta take your Zinc you AND that Porsche
I'm actually using for at least 17yrs total oil, the last few years quartz7000 10w40. In a non-reliable engine(x16xel) on LPG. Few months ago, coz i'm a idiot, we removed the head to resurface it and change the gasket(I ran out of coolant, but didn't noticed it for a few km, coz my bulbs behind the gauges are dead for a few month now, and it was around midnight). The cylinders don't have any edge, or any signs for the mileage the car actually has(315,000km). And i repeat, it's a really known unreliable engine. Like massively unreliable engine. People can't believe it has made that much kilometers. And I change my oil every 10,000km. Edit: I drive the car like it's stolen. All the time.
is because you are burning lpg the cleanest burning fuel out there and natural gas would be almost equivelant. burning lpg your oil hardly ever gets dirty always appears to be clean like right out of the can
Ammo. If you see snow ❄️ get as close to 0W as you can get. So your Manuel says 20W-50, so get 5W-50. (I have never seen 0W-50) cold starts at 20W is too thick. The W number should be as small as possible and the second number should be the biggest number that is listed in your manual.
The oil does not act as a engine cooler in air cooled engines. the cylinders on the outside of the engine has fins that air passes over to cool the engine. The oil is just a lubricate in the engine to prevent friction.
WHOA! @4:30 "...automotive, industrial, and even food grade uses..." I'm sorry, WHAT?!?! Now I have to research how my cooking oil is made, the thought of cooking my french fries in the same oil I use in my 911 scares the crap out of me
If your car has higher miles or you are going to race it hard, run a thicker oil. I also live in a place with high temps. My 200,000 mile Audi calls for 5w30. I run 10w40. It protects better at these high temps. Got rid of my valve tick and every other problem I had, even makes more power
It's interesting that I put fuel additive/ fuel injector cleaner inside my gas tank on a 2001 Acura CL type S 3.2 6 cylinder with 60,000 miles on it... 3 days later a cylinder went out on it and it only operated on 5. After pulling the spark plugs, a few of them were dark and looked burnt. I replaced them also added Dielectric grease to prevent moisture build up on the spark plugs and everything good... Acura dealer told me never put anything in the gas tank other than gas and nothing in the oil pan other than oil... no lucas oil additive, or treatments. in my 92 jeep Cherokee 6 cylinder 4.0 with 187,000 miles... I use the lucas oil additive to thicken it up a bit and sea foam in gas tank... less lifter tick and oil seems to last a bit longer over intervals... I think you would have to cut the block open and determined if there are carbon deposits on the cylinder walls as opposed to the exact same engine ran without the additives. I would love to see two of the exact same engines ran in a controlled environment up to 300,000 miles with Royal Purple oil in one of them and one of the cheapest oils found in the other and see the difference.
Have you done an oil analysis as proof that your oil really works? If their oil is true synthetic oil why it's not labeled 100% synthetic oil. From machinery lubrication website "While most engine oils are made to acceptable standards, their general and specific qualities can vary widely. Poor-quality engine oils are often put on the market due to ignorance or greed. Unfortunately, for the uninformed automobile owner, a high-quality engine oil and one of poor quality will look and feel the same."
The branding "Synthetic" is not a regulated formula, there are no actual API, or SAE requirements to be met in order to become "Synthetic". True Synthetic, Full Synthetic, Synthetic, all have the same meaning. It could be a POA formula but, more commonly, synthetic is a Grade III oil. Both use additives to meet or exceed specific manufacturer requirements. An extra refined, hydrocracked or Isocracked, Grade III oil is just as effective and even more so in many cases as a "truly synthetic" (POA) based oil. With the latest refining technology from (leading oil refiner's name omitted), Isocracked oil can exceed many "true" synthetics in a Grade II or Grade II+ base oil. The hype on the bottle means nothing. When it comes to oil, price usually does dictate quality and performance, the additives and extra refining are really expensive! In most cases, North American passenger cars will only require an SN grade, in which case there's no real benefit to synthetics. With European and some Japanese cars, turbo and diesel engines, there are usually very specific requirements, as mentioned in the video, MB 229.5 VW 505 etc.
Oz Media , nothing outperforms true 100% synthetic Motor oil. I have tested in my own vehicles. Group 2 and 3 is just not good enough. Engine remanufacturing shops making billion dollars, because people use group 2 and 3. If group 2 and 3 were good, majority people would never have engine problems.
Actually, in Germany and Japan, only engine oils with base stocks that are comprised of at least 80% Group 4 or 5 oils may be labeled as "fully synthetic". It was Exxon Mobil that went to court over said issue back in the day. Having said that (and having spent some years in a refinery), there are great group 3 HC (hydrocracked) base stocks out there that are on par with almost any given PAO blend. It all depends on the process. And in the end, the additive package is even more important than the chemist in the video made it out to be. Total is a good brand for high quality oils - the Mazda "original" oils are being produced by them 😁 And: oil change importance cannot be understated. Manufacturers don't want their stuff to last but since I want my engines to last, I have decided for myself to cut each drain interval in half and use manufacturer-approved oil. The requirements for approvals are really tough but engine oils can't perform miracles. Nothing is as good for an engine as fresh oil - besides proper treatment by the driver.
Oz Media Exactly. Perhaps you should have written the script for this verbose and very basic video. Also I would add that clear physical evidence to show that lower viscosity oil will produce more wear than higher viscosity oil in passenger cars with conventional use is lacking given identical antiwear additive packages. Wow, that was a run-on sentence! I've heard owners say things like, "my car is getting old so I'm going to start using thicker oil to reduce wear." That's simply wrong.
man i keep my oil changed on my 2000 4 runner it has 349,000 miles, if i use regular oil i change it every 3k if i use synthetic blend its every 7k. I use Seafoam every quarter or when ever i have a long drive like from Houston to Chicago, i drop some in the tank. My truck is 18 yrs old now, I am replacing all the bushing and ball joints now, but i will drive it anywhere at anytime. I want to see how far this engine will go so i won't sell it, now i am thinking about a sequoia. Toyota makes a good vehicles, i have owned every other basic truck ford, dodge and chevy all of them start to break down after about 7 years with major problems. I am amazed that the ac unit has never been touched after 18yrs. The fuel pump quit on my silverado going to a roping even it Oklahoma while i was driving from Houston, I was forced to drop the tank, replace the thing as soon as i got on the road the A/C quit. When i got back to Houston I had to replace the entire a/c system, that truck got stolen in Chicago, which is when i bought the 4 runner, I don't give a shit what anyone says its the most reliable ride i have ever owned, absolutely no problems ever with anything on this truck.
Had my 94 Yukon 350 rebuilt and balanced and I use 20W50 with zinc in it . That's what Don told me to use. Little more expensive but I paid money to have it rebuilt!! LOL
6 років тому
Good video and nicely done but you did not ask the question what is synthetic oil? Base oil is from crude oil but where do they get synthetic oil?
As for the SAE (viscosity) oil grades... important thing to mention here is that the two numbers, Winter and "at op.temp" are not on the same scale and not comparable. Lets say you have a 20W-50 and modern fuel saving thin (too thin for my personal liking but whatever) 0W-20. It's not that the "Cold" viscosity of the 20W-50 would be the same as the Operating temperature viscosity of the 0W-20. It's totally different scale and the numbers dont compare / match.
Oil has to be understood on a molecule level. The numbers mean the opposite of what you think and we have to understand oil numbers not as thickness but as behaviour. On a molecule level the molecules are separated when the oil is cold so when you start a cold engine it is able to travel around the engine more quickly behaving like a thin oil hence the low viscosity number. Cold oil looks thicker but behaves like a thinner oil when cold. As the oil heats up the molecules bind together and it behaves like a thicker oil even though it seems thinner hence the bigger number.When hot it behaves like a thicker oil. So lets say 10/40 oil. The numbers are telling us that when the oil is cold it will behave like a thin oil of 10 viscosity but when hot it will behave like a thicker oil of 40 viscosity. Under a microscope the molecules of a mineral oil are like little rocks and under a microscope synthetic oil the molecules look like little round marbles hence the better protection qualities of synthetic oils.
It is also a myth that you should follow the manufacturers oil change intervals if you want the longest life out of your vehicle. Case in point a top quality japanese car that was so badly full of sludge that it caused engine failure and it was determined that the car had been changed as per the factory specs but it had not been enough. If you drive very short distances to work and your engine doesn't get a chance to thoroughly warm up it will cause huge sludge build up and will eventually clog oil passages, sensors, etc.
I think the Total dude and the video is a bit misleading. The part where they speak about the viscosity is true, one is for Winter and one is for Summer, so you should choose what type of oil to put in your car based on your location aaand at the same time, they say, read the owners manual and put what it says, yeah, but BMW puts 5w30 and for example from where I'm from, the 5w is ok, but the 30 is not for the summer.... So if you drive a race car, best you can do is install oil temp/pressure gauge and monitor it ;)
You can't just go by the manual all the time. People need to learn basic mechanics, and develop what is normally referred to as common sense, but is less and less common. Which is one reason I've never let anyone else touch my vehicles since my first truck's warranty was up. Which also said to change transmission oil and spark plugs at 100k. The plugs had between .050 and .060 gap, all 8 of them, at 50k or so. I was young and had a race car before a license, so i did run it fairly hard. And gas still being cheap back then didn't hurt. Trans fluid was about the same, burnt before reaching anywhere near its stated change interval, which i had no intention of waiting for regardless. And that transmission seeing ONLY hard use basically, with the pedal nearly glued to the floor, survived 140k, followed by the engine at 160. And that was pulling probably almost twice the rated weight many, many times as well. And that was before i knew what to look for, or better to disregard the warning signs before both went out. Even towing all that weight, i still jusy buried the throttle cause the truck would do it, and paid the price for being young and dumb. They both would've lasted much longer if i knew what i know now.
A motor can run for a long time without oil. Every morning your cams have to run without a significant amount of oil for 30seconds to 1 minute. And every time you start a vehicle that hasn't been started in years you have cylinders, cams, lifters, camshaft, ECT with no oil running for quite a while
If you buy performance oil with better additives the film stays on those surfaces until the oil gets there. And if it takes 30 seconds for oil to get to crucial places I think your oil pump is failing or your filter is clogged.
Just use the correct viscosity your oil cap says. From Walmart Super Tech to the more expensive oils just keep the oil clean. Your vehicle will last many many years and miles.
Come to Germany, here we have no Problems with Classic Car Oil, you get that 10w60 for a 993 or other hot running air cooled engines at every gas station.
Zinc is the best thing for your engine. It's only been reduced because of the green movement. Always use a high zinc oil if you want it to last a long time
Never follow the manufactures recommended service interval. If it says your 'fine' if you dont tow or drive agressive, so you can wait 7,500 miles, do NOT. Change it after 5,000 miles MAX ONLY if you run pure synthetic. If you run that conventional garbage, change it after 2,500.
Most reason for destroyed camshofts and rockers is lack of Zink additive. Synthetics usually don't contain this high pressure additive and therefore tend to destroy engines with Rockers without rollers on them. Simple as that. Forget about SAE temperature and viscosity bullshit. If your starter can still turn the cold engine over the oil is not too thick.
the thing you need to be most concerned about in any air cooled engine is heat. the hotter it is, the faster it breaks down. you can put the "most recommended" oil in there, and it will get killed at about the same time as any other same viscosity "sn" rated oil with your additives. the zinc is also recommended for all non roller lifter(tappet) camshafts. it helps them spin. i don't think your porche has them. it has nothing extra to do with the rest of your fancy air cooled porsche. I see really strange things coming out of these "professionals" on youtube, like the race car yaya that is touching babbitt bearings with his fingers, the guy slapping a new filter on an engine while it is still drooling black nasty oil out of it, and I guess I am a "professional" too, so there is that. this oil guy is performing the milgram lab coat experiment on everyone. using the word "synthetic" in some layman lingo, making you believe it is something other than a petroleum product, when it is not. he pritty much told you there is no difference. the wordplay he used is actually quite comical. he would be breaking laws to tell you otherwise. synthetic oils was a castor or ester based oil a long time ago (animal or vegetable fat), however now days a petroleum can be refined well enough to remove enough paraffin wax out of it to be as good or better than what use to be called synthetic oil. now it is the same thing. the synthetic wordplay came into effect when castrol syntec got sued for using the word on a petroleum product, and won. now everyone uses the word. it sells. you get your "W" grade in oil from polymers. they are actually thin when cold, and thick when hot, until it breaks down. funny the milgram guy didn't mention that. he does fit the part with that lab coat and the glasses though. probably has a piece of paper to show off an education too. i see some jankey bmw with a 0-20 cap on it, and the lab coat experiment guy says you should use it? since 0-20 is used for epa emissions points, that "theory" can be debatable. a zero weight oil in its purest form has no real lubrication properties. i would use it for drilling a hole, but not in a car. the thing that kills engines in oil aside from breakdown is the fact that your engine makes sulfuric acid. the most corrosive substance in the universe. the go to has always been 3000 mile oil changes because of this. the epa wants everyone to do different. the dealer may be swayed, and may not be right. i have had 5000 mile oil changes burn my hands from acid. you are creating more confusion and misinformation in one way or more. this is the new generation of snake oil. i might be wrong. lol.
Stupid question: for example, if my VW CC is sold in both Alaska and Florida does the manual for the Alaska car specify oil with different viscosity compared to the Florida car or do manufacturers just ship the same version of the manual for all cars of a particular model? You see where I'm going with this right?
103,000 miles on my Harley Davidson and running good. Use Walmart brand 20W50 motor oil. 5 quarts for $10.95. Maybe it is $11.95 now. lol Compression is still good and engine is strong.
So one question that wasn’t answered in this from what I can tell. Say you buy a car and use the recommended oil. The same thing everyone across the country reads in their manuals. Are you able to use that same engine oil for example in Texas heat and also another owner who may be in New York winter.? Do we need to adjust our factory oil ratings from the manufacturer to adapt to our weather conditions?
You failed to ask an important question: Why do the manufacturers specify a certain viscosity? Then answer is not solely "to increase engine life". It's a combination of things. One of these things is fuel economy, because the government is up the car maker's butts to get ridiculously high mileage. Thin oil will boost mileage. Otherwise, you would see mostly 10W40 specified. Believe me, water thin oil is not the best for longevity.
RTFM. "Change it regularly" doesn't mean every 3 to 5k miles. Follow the recommended service interval (unless you hammer your car on the track). I was surprised to learn that my 25 year old American made push rod V8 had a 7k mile interval on conventional oil. Hey, the manual was buried under 25 years of detritus and the truck hadn't moved in 5 years. My Audi goes 10ks miles and has a light on the dash that tells me when it's due. The old F150 gets it once a year whether it needs it or not. The big motor Bronco gets it at the beginning of every major road trip. If you're changing the oil every 3-5k in a daily driver you're throwing money away. Again R.T.F.M.
One oil change every 2000 miles for street use is just throwing your money away. 6000 miles will be fine with any engine use, even a very aggressive one.
Another simple explanation , the W in oil is for winter , it's the weight of the oil in cold temps , like 30 degrees and below . Once the oil warms up , it switches it's viscosity to the other number once it's warm, over 30 degrees or something like that , ferenheight . Basically use whatever the manufacturer tells you to use lol how stupid are people really ! ?!? ! I'm not going to even get into the SAE grades !
Nice Porche... but have tail lights looks so old... do you have any plans of replacing it? I watch your video on its paint job. Really perfect. But the tail lights wasn’t even addressed at all... really ruins the look
First off, there is a huge difference between Dino oil and synthetic. You get what you pay for. Semi synthetics are junk. There is a conflict of interest for the manufacturer to specify the oil required. Who is going to sell you the replacement parts when the engine wears out? The intervals are still critical. Total Oil is blah. I have never seen a car getting the checkered flag that was running Total. If you want good oil, get out your money. Redline, Valvoline, Royal Purple make 20/50 that is noticeably different. Zinc is good but many other additives also matter. Heat kills oil. It makes it break down and the viscosity lowers. Certain additives enhance the heat endurance.
Just use Motorcycle oil in Cars, it has to be much better quality because loads of bikes have been air-cooled for donkeys years and have at least twice the redline of Car engines.
I talked to a friend that works at an oil refinery and he told me that every brand of fuel gets the same fuel then each company adds 5 to 10 gallons of their additives to a tanker of fuel or roughly 5 gallons of additive per 4000 gallons of fuel. So brand of fuel is mostly sales hype.
We are talking about oil here, not fuel. Fuel is what makes your car go, oil if what makes your engine run smoothly with constant lubrication. No need to thank me just remember this for future.
@@VTECforDays woow easy boy, I was just educating you, it is for your own good! you're the one being an ass here, you don't scold the hand that feeds you as the old people used to say
Something doesn't make sense .. if the owners manual says 5w30 and you live in a super hot country like in the middle of the desert .. would you still use 5w30 or 20w50 since the lab tech expert says use something specific to the weather as too hot weather will make the thinner oil useless .. but at the end of the video he says follow the user manual instruction and religiously change the oil at the required intervals .
motor oils sold in stores have a letter grading on the cap or label that indicate a compliance with an additive package minimum that meets federal requirements. If you have a car made in the last few years built to be sold in the US as long as you use the oil weight indicated on your 710(oil) cap or in your owners manual for those who are literate, you don't need to worry about the oil you are putting in your car. Change your oil when you can no longer read the writing on the dipstick. Stick to the same brand but stay away from store brands. Your engine will not have an oil related failure. A lack of oil is not an oil failure. Auto manufacturers and dealers cannot tell you you must use their oil unless they are going to provide it to you free. If they try to you should immediately leave their premises.
*i disagree with the whole "regardless of the brand" statement. i used conventional SAE 5W30 castrol / valvoline motor oil in One of my chevrolet trucks for 10 years my other one that i actually bought with MORE miles (almost double) that had always had ONLY Mobil 1 fully synthetic oil in it out lasted the truck with the conventional oil in it, in fact it trippled the miles so since that time i use the proper grade but only fully synthetic motor oil in all of my vehicles and i have yet to be let down by them. at least not by the rotating assembly in any of them. i have been let down a time or two by accessories or the drive train but never the engine it's self*
But know one ever talks about an engine build? And what weight and oil you should use such as a conventional oil? Or full synthetic? I have a 2013 ZL1 with a stage 3 cam and full bolt ons. The builder recommended Rotella 15w/40 in my engine! What are the benefits in this vs manufactures recommendations?
they make your oil thin at freezing temperature so your engine gets lubricated as soon as it starts, at higher temperatures those aditives have no effect because it is a precise blend meant for winter temperatures, so at higher temperatures oil still retains the right amount of viscosity required for engine to run smoothly. Just follow your car requirements for oil and thats it, regular change of oil and filters will make your engine run many years without problems.
My oil is self changing. It has this great feature called a leak and all I have to do is put 1l in every week.
Lawrence Timme rear main seal? If so, I know the pain 🛢️💲
Save more money and don’t change it.
my daily has been going since 2013 with 1 oil change.
When it blows up, I’ll yank my plates off and leave the title in the glovebox and call the scrapyard to come get it.
not sure that is brag worthy.
Lawrence Timme 😂 hahah the niggas😂👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
so you have a british car, then?
I love how careful was the engineer at answering the question since the question itself can lead to a misleading result if answered lightly.
Man you explained it in a way that I'll never forget it FOR LIFE. Don't worry about the word thickness vs viscosity we definitely understood. The honey or syrup analogy nailed it! Great explanation and great video. And thanks to the guys at Total.
For the latest oil specifications, go to your vehicle manufacturer's website once per year in order to check for an updated list of approved spec oils. You might be able to now choose a 5w-20 full synthetic when the owner's manual calls for 5w30. The thinner the oil that you are permitted to use, will result in much better fuel economy. Many times the season will be calculated in figuring out which spec oil to use.
On many vehicles, the 20w50 summer time spec dino oil, can now be replaced with with 5w50 or 10w60 full synthetic winter time, this gets better cold weather startup, and extended high speed driving protection when fully warmed up.
Define much better if your adding more oil as it pisses out the tailpipe because it's thinner.
Thank you for making this video, it's informative and educational. This cleared up a lot of questions concerning choices of what weight and how semi synthetic affect a vehicle.
Let me add my 2 cents from actual experience with Supertech. I had a 2004 Chevy 3500 Duramax that I hauled campers with. I drove in every type of environment from high heat in desert to blizzards in Wyoming, drove in mountains to flats, straight roads to curvy roads. So to save money I decided to use Supertech oil. I didn't think much of it but I noticed my truck using oil and thought it was normal considering how much towing I was doing. Some guys I work with were talking one day about motor oils and how pretty much every single one of them used Rotella. So I decided the next time I got my oil change I would give it a try. To my surprise my truck not only stopped using oil, but my fuel mileage went up also and all I did was switch from Supertech to Rotella. So yes I would have to say there is a difference between quality oil and Supertech.
Larry the production and educational content is awesome and you make a great host! 👍🏽
I appreciate your attempt at transparency and, quite frankly, I think that it's good you encourage owner research.
Summary of the video: use what the manual says, change it when the manual says to, there was literally nothing else in this video.
Exactly. Car makers and oil chemists do know a thing or two about engines and oils. There is much more to it than SAE viscosity rating.
Foreal 😂😂
And by design to make money. Test your oil after 3000 miles. It is not even close to being broke down. The oils today hardly break down. Changing oil every 3000 miles is a waste of money.
Always use mobile one extended milage oil. It's good for at least 15,000 miles.
thanks for saving my 15 minutes
@@Ecoscienceczar That's a lot, though... I would never exceed 10.000 mi in any car, even with full synthetic. And honestly, if anything, it's even better for your engine to change it slightly sooner. You won't harm it. I wouldn't change it every 3.000 mi either, though (except if it's a very old engine / barely runs / is very worn and you'd like to use it for a couple more years).
News Flash!
Most of the well known engine oil brands have a 'Which Oil' selector on their website which you can use to easily get quoted the right oil for your vehicle.
Same with oil filters. Select your preferred brand and use the filter manufacturer's website to get the right filter.
Nothing complicated at all.
Happy motoring folks!
I work in an autoparts store and what we tell the customer is that for non-highend or non-luxury cars, after one hundred or one hundred twenty five thousand miles you have to start using higher viscosity oil than what the manual recommends. The manual may say 0w-20 or 5w-20 but that's only if it were newer. Once you're in the high mileage range your car will need thicker oil for better lubrication and protection. I would advise them to move up to 10w-30 or so.
oil change intervals are designed to support major oil cos, the most important part of a change schedule is the filter, most of the filters are very small anymore so they should be changed more often,if you change the filter more often you can run the oil longer as the only thing that goes wrong with oil it gets dirty, clean it and you can continue to use it
Joe Scheller how do you clean it? By changing the filter alone?
exactly and add new to the full mark, change fully maybe once every other regular oil change depending how much driving idle time andwhat conditions you drive in dirt roads are terrible so changing more is necesary@@videosurfah
@@joescheller6680 Its not dirt its carbon blow by ,when running oil to long the protection package drops out leaving crappy base oil ( no protection ) we spend 30 to 90k on our vehicles don't cheap out CHANGE THE OIL ! I change mine ( full syn. ) every 5k . I have a small Euro shop about 1300 customers they all come in at 5 k miles. the best part NO oil leaks the seals love it , that alone justifies early chang out , do the math.
I just change the oil once a year in my VR6 GTI (2003) at the dealership using Castrol Edge 5W-40. I only put about 5 to 6 thousand miles a year on the car... usually short local trips to and fro. Have had the car 16 years with no issues whatsoever! Then again, I only have 89,000 miles on it, original owner.
My turbo charged Jeep came with instructions to use 100% synthetic and it even specified what grade of synthetic. There are ratings on the bottles to compare.
I recently learned that synthetic oil can withstand higher temperatures before it begins to harden and stick to engine surfaces. Since a turbo is the hottest place on an engine it only makes sense to use the toughest high temp tolerant oil available.
High quality engine oil doesn't come from the ground its engineered in a laboratory often from natural gas. The drain interval in the owners manual is for conventional oil (unless its factory filled with synthetic).
smile.amazon.com/Pennzoil-550040849-Platinum-Racing-Synthetic/dp/B00JMCCM94/ref=sr_1_16?srs=2598345011&ie=UTF8&qid=1531808701&sr=8-16
natural gas comes from the ground
@@chrisk119 : Or politicians...
Wow, finally someone who knows what synthetic oil really is. Motul and others still make real synthetic oil. thank you boodleman.
cant believe you just said that, natural gas is basically just that, liquid turned into vapor, it may be used to make synthetic in some sort of heat process but in no way a lubricating application
Brilliant idea for an episode Larry. Well done as always.
Fond memories! I worked as Blending Lab supervisor at ERCA Esso's research centre in the UK. Formulating an engine oil is an art form and millions are spent getting the mix of ingredients just right. Oil's ain't oils!
I work at a gas station, and most of the people that buys oil are saying that their oil light started shining.. Also pulled up a oilstick form a subaru boxer and the stick was dry, and the ladie didnt know that it was bad to run the car with low oil...
Man... All I have ever driven since 1974 is a 1st Generation Monte Carlo. These 350 engines are some of the most credible ones built, and I just use 10W-30W with Bestline Oil Treatment and drive the car easy all the time. While others speed past me because they're going to get another car in 2 or 3 years anyway. However, all the time, people ask to buy the car I drive, or give me looks as I drive by. While others tell me, I drive a "Real Car"....
i have developed a high grade of respect for Total as an automotive lubricant provider. I'm convinced and going to try it for my lightly modified type-r.
This is how informative self help videos should be done. This guy is more than some shade tree mechanic giving his 2 cents on why you should do this or not do that with absolutely no presentation of his credentials. . This guy went to the oil company and then shared what he learned. This gives him credibility. Well done Sir !
In the summary you said, "change it regularly". The Chemist said to follow the manufacturer's recommendations. Changing the oil at 3,000 miles is a useless waste if the manufacturer suggests changing it at 5,000 miles. Listen again beginning at 14:15.
You also indicated that the brand does not matter if it has the correct specifications. The Chemist stressed it has to say approved by the manufacturer. Presumably some oil with similar stated specifications are not approved by the manufacturer and may have a problem. It may be ok but simply not tested but who wants to take that chance.
I worked for an automotive seal manufacturer. Our Chemist told me that it did not matter what brand of oil I used but do not mix brands. He added that the individual additives in major brands are ok but if mixed, some mixtures would "eat" the seals.
The ONLY true synthetic By Total I know of, is the 0w-30 a3/b4 euro oil and is the only synthetic sold here.I e. PAO bro Is and Grp V esters. Most shit is not grp 4 or 5 and I applaud Total for telling the truth.
I sometimes pick up freight from that location. Great video, thanks
Probably THE best car car video I have ever watched. Extremely informative and an eye opener. I best check my oil in my VW. She's an old girl now and I want to keep her running.
Well the reality is that the Owners Manual isn't ALWAYS the best thing to do! Especially with older cars as new tech comes out. My 94 Integra recommends 5w or 10w30 oil depending on climate. I use 0w30 full synthetic to help reduce engine wear at cold startup, and I'd like to think that is partly why the engine still runs great at 362,000 miles. Back in 1994 there was no such thing as 0w30 oil.
Since most engine wear occurs during cold starting, you want the thinnest oil possible when cold. 0w is still thicker than what's needed at operating temperature, so any engine that requires 5w or 10w30 can use 0w30, and any engine that requires 5w20 can use 0w20.
Patrick94GSR so with the information you just gave would it be better to change my jeeps oil to ow30?
I use 10w40 dc2
They have had straight 30 weight oil sense the 60's. Oil pump design and clearance aswell as oil galley design just gooping in heavier weight thinking it means more protection it doesnt film strenth gives you that. Whatbyou have done is slowed ur drain back likely raised ur oil temp.
You got it backwards , you are causing more wear , the 5w is what the oil thickness is when started cold , it's thinner to flow better . Your using a thicker oil on start up , harder to flow and harder on the oil pump as well . You are causing more wear by doing this
That VTEC 4 cylinder engine you have can probably tolerate the thinner synthetic oil that you use because it revs higher than most cars but it is not good advice to tell others to use a thinner oil at startup than what is recommended. The best advice is to warm up your car to prolong engine life and I am sure you already do this.
Your way to understand oil viscosity aka thickness might be rudimentary to some but it made perfect sense to me. Especially the maple syrup part. It also made me want pancakes. Doh!
Great Information, Great Examples, Great Insights!
Very Well Detailed! Great Job! 😎
One thing you didn't learn is what exactly is a synthetic oil? What is it made of and what are the differences between it and convention oils? It can't be additives, because they can add additives to anything. Conventional oils have additives.
One way to look at Multi Viscosity oil and understand it, is this. It is a temperature related performance rating of the oil at two different temperatures. At 0 degrees Celsius and at 100 degrees Celsius. Given a 5W30 oil, what that means is the oil will behave the same, viscosity wise, at 100 degrees centigrade than a conventional straight 30 weight oil behaves at 100 degrees Celsius. And at 0 degrees centigrade the oil will behave the same, viscosity wise, at 0 degrees centigrade than a conventional straight 5 weight oil behaves at 0 degrees Celsius. The viscosity unit of measurement is Centipoise or when density is considered, Centistokes.
Your Porsche looks great! How do you get it SO shiny?
(Kidding, I'm, kidding!)
He takes it regularly to a local hand car wash that uses the same Mitt & shampoo on hundreds of cars.
Video was good but I felt like he wanted to say you can change up your oil brands and weights depending on application. But if he said that, Total could be liable for people putting gear lube as their oil and blowing their motor.
Your oil specialist you spoke to he sure reminded me of one of the characters from the 80's movie Revenge of the Nerds don't forget ta take your Zinc you AND that Porsche
I'm actually using for at least 17yrs total oil, the last few years quartz7000 10w40. In a non-reliable engine(x16xel) on LPG. Few months ago, coz i'm a idiot, we removed the head to resurface it and change the gasket(I ran out of coolant, but didn't noticed it for a few km, coz my bulbs behind the gauges are dead for a few month now, and it was around midnight).
The cylinders don't have any edge, or any signs for the mileage the car actually has(315,000km). And i repeat, it's a really known unreliable engine. Like massively unreliable engine. People can't believe it has made that much kilometers. And I change my oil every 10,000km.
Edit: I drive the car like it's stolen. All the time.
Master Skywalker because it's lpg ya dingus. Much cleaner in the combustion chamber than gas and especially deisal
No name-calling, but it's Diesel.
is because you are burning lpg the cleanest burning fuel out there and natural gas would be almost equivelant. burning lpg your oil hardly ever gets dirty always appears to be clean like right out of the can
Ammo. If you see snow ❄️ get as close to 0W as you can get. So your Manuel says 20W-50, so get 5W-50. (I have never seen 0W-50) cold starts at 20W is too thick. The W number should be as small as possible and the second number should be the biggest number that is listed in your manual.
The oil does not act as a engine cooler in air cooled engines. the cylinders on the outside of the engine has fins that air passes over to cool the engine. The oil is just a lubricate in the engine to prevent friction.
WHOA! @4:30 "...automotive, industrial, and even food grade uses..." I'm sorry, WHAT?!?! Now I have to research how my cooking oil is made, the thought of cooking my french fries in the same oil I use in my 911 scares the crap out of me
TL;DR: just follow the manual.
Friend of a friend (motorcycle racing mechanic) told me "as long as there's oil in the engine you're good". :-D
If your car has higher miles or you are going to race it hard, run a thicker oil. I also live in a place with high temps. My 200,000 mile Audi calls for 5w30. I run 10w40. It protects better at these high temps. Got rid of my valve tick and every other problem I had, even makes more power
It's interesting that I put fuel additive/ fuel injector cleaner inside my gas tank on a 2001 Acura CL type S 3.2 6 cylinder with 60,000 miles on it... 3 days later a cylinder went out on it and it only operated on 5. After pulling the spark plugs, a few of them were dark and looked burnt. I replaced them also added Dielectric grease to prevent moisture build up on the spark plugs and everything good... Acura dealer told me never put anything in the gas tank other than gas and nothing in the oil pan other than oil... no lucas oil additive, or treatments. in my 92 jeep Cherokee 6 cylinder 4.0 with 187,000 miles... I use the lucas oil additive to thicken it up a bit and sea foam in gas tank... less lifter tick and oil seems to last a bit longer over intervals... I think you would have to cut the block open and determined if there are carbon deposits on the cylinder walls as opposed to the exact same engine ran without the additives. I would love to see two of the exact same engines ran in a controlled environment up to 300,000 miles with Royal Purple oil in one of them and one of the cheapest oils found in the other and see the difference.
Contradicting
Have you done an oil analysis as proof that your oil really works? If their oil is true synthetic oil why it's not labeled 100% synthetic oil. From machinery lubrication website "While most engine oils are made to acceptable standards, their general and specific qualities can vary widely. Poor-quality engine oils are often put on the market due to ignorance or greed. Unfortunately, for the uninformed automobile owner, a high-quality engine oil and one of poor quality will look and feel the same."
The branding "Synthetic" is not a regulated formula, there are no actual API, or SAE requirements to be met in order to become "Synthetic". True Synthetic, Full Synthetic, Synthetic, all have the same meaning. It could be a POA formula but, more commonly, synthetic is a Grade III oil. Both use additives to meet or exceed specific manufacturer requirements. An extra refined, hydrocracked or Isocracked, Grade III oil is just as effective and even more so in many cases as a "truly synthetic" (POA) based oil. With the latest refining technology from (leading oil refiner's name omitted), Isocracked oil can exceed many "true" synthetics in a Grade II or Grade II+ base oil. The hype on the bottle means nothing.
When it comes to oil, price usually does dictate quality and performance, the additives and extra refining are really expensive! In most cases, North American passenger cars will only require an SN grade, in which case there's no real benefit to synthetics. With European and some Japanese cars, turbo and diesel engines, there are usually very specific requirements, as mentioned in the video, MB 229.5 VW 505 etc.
Thats why i use Amsoil. UOA have been very good😎
Oz Media , nothing outperforms true 100% synthetic Motor oil. I have tested in my own vehicles. Group 2 and 3 is just not good enough. Engine remanufacturing shops making billion dollars, because people use group 2 and 3. If group 2 and 3 were good, majority people would never have engine problems.
Actually, in Germany and Japan, only engine oils with base stocks that are comprised of at least 80% Group 4 or 5 oils may be labeled as "fully synthetic". It was Exxon Mobil that went to court over said issue back in the day.
Having said that (and having spent some years in a refinery), there are great group 3 HC (hydrocracked) base stocks out there that are on par with almost any given PAO blend. It all depends on the process. And in the end, the additive package is even more important than the chemist in the video made it out to be. Total is a good brand for high quality oils - the Mazda "original" oils are being produced by them 😁
And: oil change importance cannot be understated. Manufacturers don't want their stuff to last but since I want my engines to last, I have decided for myself to cut each drain interval in half and use manufacturer-approved oil. The requirements for approvals are really tough but engine oils can't perform miracles. Nothing is as good for an engine as fresh oil - besides proper treatment by the driver.
Oz Media
Exactly. Perhaps you should have written the script for this verbose and very basic video. Also I would add that clear physical evidence to show that lower viscosity oil will produce more wear than higher viscosity oil in passenger cars with conventional use is lacking given identical antiwear additive packages. Wow, that was a run-on sentence! I've heard owners say things like, "my car is getting old so I'm going to start using thicker oil to reduce wear." That's simply wrong.
Awesome video. Well thought out & produced. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼 This is a great learning resource. Thank you.
That lab guy really knows his stuff... amazing!
And, the myths were...?
Amsoil Dominator in my turbo LS. 15W50. Supertech Walmart oil 5W30 in my work truck. It has 450,000 miles using the cheap stuff.
man i keep my oil changed on my 2000 4 runner it has 349,000 miles, if i use regular oil i change it every 3k if i use synthetic blend its every 7k. I use Seafoam every quarter or when ever i have a long drive like from Houston to Chicago, i drop some in the tank. My truck is 18 yrs old now, I am replacing all the bushing and ball joints now, but i will drive it anywhere at anytime. I want to see how far this engine will go so i won't sell it, now i am thinking about a sequoia. Toyota makes a good vehicles, i have owned every other basic truck ford, dodge and chevy all of them start to break down after about 7 years with major problems. I am amazed that the ac unit has never been touched after 18yrs. The fuel pump quit on my silverado going to a roping even it Oklahoma while i was driving from Houston, I was forced to drop the tank, replace the thing as soon as i got on the road the A/C quit. When i got back to Houston I had to replace the entire a/c system, that truck got stolen in Chicago, which is when i bought the 4 runner, I don't give a shit what anyone says its the most reliable ride i have ever owned, absolutely no problems ever with anything on this truck.
"Changing my oil on a 'militant' like schedule"
I don't think that word means what you think it means.
Had my 94 Yukon 350 rebuilt and balanced and I use 20W50 with zinc in it . That's what Don told me to use. Little more expensive but I paid money to have it rebuilt!! LOL
Good video and nicely done but you did not ask the question what is synthetic oil? Base oil is from crude oil but where do they get synthetic oil?
As for the SAE (viscosity) oil grades... important thing to mention here is that the two numbers, Winter and "at op.temp" are not on the same scale and not comparable.
Lets say you have a 20W-50 and modern fuel saving thin (too thin for my personal liking but whatever) 0W-20.
It's not that the "Cold" viscosity of the 20W-50 would be the same as the Operating temperature viscosity of the 0W-20. It's totally different scale and the numbers dont compare / match.
Oil has to be understood on a molecule level. The numbers mean the opposite of what you think and we have to understand oil numbers not as thickness but as behaviour. On a molecule level the molecules are separated when the oil is cold so when you start a cold engine it is able to travel around the engine more quickly behaving like a thin oil hence the low viscosity number. Cold oil looks thicker but behaves like a thinner oil when cold. As the oil heats up the molecules bind together and it behaves like a thicker oil even though it seems thinner hence the bigger number.When hot it behaves like a thicker oil. So lets say 10/40 oil. The numbers are telling us that when the oil is cold it will behave like a thin oil of 10 viscosity but when hot it will behave like a thicker oil of 40 viscosity.
Under a microscope the molecules of a mineral oil are like little rocks and under a microscope synthetic oil the molecules look like little round marbles hence the better protection qualities of synthetic oils.
my truck leaks oil too but i still do oil changes about every 3k doesn't leak real bad but i do add some every month
It is also a myth that you should follow the manufacturers oil change intervals if you want the longest life out of your vehicle.
Case in point a top quality japanese car that was so badly full of sludge that it caused engine failure and it was determined that the car had been changed as per the factory specs but it had not been enough. If you drive very short distances to work and your engine doesn't get a chance to thoroughly warm up it will cause huge sludge build up and will eventually clog oil passages, sensors, etc.
hes eyes are lying esp on additives...,i can see that!
I think the Total dude and the video is a bit misleading. The part where they speak about the viscosity is true, one is for Winter and one is for Summer, so you should choose what type of oil to put in your car based on your location aaand at the same time, they say, read the owners manual and put what it says, yeah, but BMW puts 5w30 and for example from where I'm from, the 5w is ok, but the 30 is not for the summer.... So if you drive a race car, best you can do is install oil temp/pressure gauge and monitor it ;)
with high quality oils, is 30' ok exept you drive always in sahara desert or sommeting...race cars is another thing
You can't just go by the manual all the time. People need to learn basic mechanics, and develop what is normally referred to as common sense, but is less and less common. Which is one reason I've never let anyone else touch my vehicles since my first truck's warranty was up. Which also said to change transmission oil and spark plugs at 100k. The plugs had between .050 and .060 gap, all 8 of them, at 50k or so. I was young and had a race car before a license, so i did run it fairly hard. And gas still being cheap back then didn't hurt. Trans fluid was about the same, burnt before reaching anywhere near its stated change interval, which i had no intention of waiting for regardless. And that transmission seeing ONLY hard use basically, with the pedal nearly glued to the floor, survived 140k, followed by the engine at 160. And that was pulling probably almost twice the rated weight many, many times as well. And that was before i knew what to look for, or better to disregard the warning signs before both went out. Even towing all that weight, i still jusy buried the throttle cause the truck would do it, and paid the price for being young and dumb. They both would've lasted much longer if i knew what i know now.
A motor can run for a long time without oil. Every morning your cams have to run without a significant amount of oil for 30seconds to 1 minute. And every time you start a vehicle that hasn't been started in years you have cylinders, cams, lifters, camshaft, ECT with no oil running for quite a while
If you buy performance oil with better additives the film stays on those surfaces until the oil gets there. And if it takes 30 seconds for oil to get to crucial places I think your oil pump is failing or your filter is clogged.
Just use the correct viscosity your oil cap says. From Walmart Super Tech to the more expensive oils just keep the oil clean. Your vehicle will last many many years and miles.
Come to Germany, here we have no Problems with Classic Car Oil, you get that 10w60 for a 993 or other hot running air cooled engines at every gas station.
Zinc is the best thing for your engine.
It's only been reduced because of the green movement.
Always use a high zinc oil if you want it to last a long time
Your info is years behind the times and science. Too much zinc is actually harmful to engines.
Never follow the manufactures recommended service interval. If it says your 'fine' if you dont tow or drive agressive, so you can wait 7,500 miles, do NOT. Change it after 5,000 miles MAX ONLY if you run pure synthetic. If you run that conventional garbage, change it after 2,500.
Most reason for destroyed camshofts and rockers is lack of Zink additive. Synthetics usually don't contain this high pressure additive and therefore tend to destroy engines with Rockers without rollers on them. Simple as that. Forget about SAE temperature and viscosity bullshit. If your starter can still turn the cold engine over the oil is not too thick.
the thing you need to be most concerned about in any air cooled engine is heat. the hotter it is, the faster it breaks down. you can put the "most recommended" oil in there, and it will get killed at about the same time as any other same viscosity "sn" rated oil with your additives. the zinc is also recommended for all non roller lifter(tappet) camshafts. it helps them spin. i don't think your porche has them. it has nothing extra to do with the rest of your fancy air cooled porsche. I see really strange things coming out of these "professionals" on youtube, like the race car yaya that is touching babbitt bearings with his fingers, the guy slapping a new filter on an engine while it is still drooling black nasty oil out of it, and I guess I am a "professional" too, so there is that. this oil guy is performing the milgram lab coat experiment on everyone. using the word "synthetic" in some layman lingo, making you believe it is something other than a petroleum product, when it is not. he pritty much told you there is no difference. the wordplay he used is actually quite comical. he would be breaking laws to tell you otherwise. synthetic oils was a castor or ester based oil a long time ago (animal or vegetable fat), however now days a petroleum can be refined well enough to remove enough paraffin wax out of it to be as good or better than what use to be called synthetic oil. now it is the same thing. the synthetic wordplay came into effect when castrol syntec got sued for using the word on a petroleum product, and won. now everyone uses the word. it sells. you get your "W" grade in oil from polymers. they are actually thin when cold, and thick when hot, until it breaks down. funny the milgram guy didn't mention that. he does fit the part with that lab coat and the glasses though. probably has a piece of paper to show off an education too. i see some jankey bmw with a 0-20 cap on it, and the lab coat experiment guy says you should use it? since 0-20 is used for epa emissions points, that "theory" can be debatable. a zero weight oil in its purest form has no real lubrication properties. i would use it for drilling a hole, but not in a car. the thing that kills engines in oil aside from breakdown is the fact that your engine makes sulfuric acid. the most corrosive substance in the universe. the go to has always been 3000 mile oil changes because of this. the epa wants everyone to do different. the dealer may be swayed, and may not be right. i have had 5000 mile oil changes burn my hands from acid. you are creating more confusion and misinformation in one way or more. this is the new generation of snake oil. i might be wrong. lol.
so the 1st number needs to be lower in a cold climate then the chemist says the 2nd number should be higher in a hot climate....duh...brilliantly put
He said to follow your manufacturer's drain interval. That is how you end up with a warranty claim. Ask Toyota how it worked out for them.
Stupid question: for example, if my VW CC is sold in both Alaska and Florida does the manual for the Alaska car specify oil with different viscosity compared to the Florida car or do manufacturers just ship the same version of the manual for all cars of a particular model? You see where I'm going with this right?
103,000 miles on my Harley Davidson and running good. Use Walmart brand 20W50 motor oil. 5 quarts for $10.95. Maybe it is $11.95 now. lol Compression is still good and engine is strong.
"Yes, and finally in this room we have the 55 gallon drums full of personal lubricants which will make their way to San Fernando valley."
Those were the pink barrels behind the green (edible) ones.
So one question that wasn’t answered in this from what I can tell. Say you buy a car and use the recommended oil. The same thing everyone across the country reads in their manuals. Are you able to use that same engine oil for example in Texas heat and also another owner who may be in New York winter.? Do we need to adjust our factory oil ratings from the manufacturer to adapt to our weather conditions?
The moral of the story is “RTFM”
Funny that we use this acronym in the Computer world, where usually, there is no F-ing Manual.
You failed to ask an important question: Why do the manufacturers specify a certain viscosity? Then answer is not solely "to increase engine life". It's a combination of things. One of these things is fuel economy, because the government is up the car maker's butts to get ridiculously high mileage. Thin oil will boost mileage. Otherwise, you would see mostly 10W40 specified. Believe me, water thin oil is not the best for longevity.
So basically the 0W-40 Full Synthetic I use in my car is good all year.
Yes. The Range of OAT is from below -25ºC up to above +30ºC. From below -13Fº up +86Fº
Hey friend. Can i use 0w40 instead of 5w40?
And yet there are still people that think they know more than all the oil and mechanical engineers and change what oil they run.
i live by that factory and i still cant source total oil easily!. They should sell it right there
I use Bertoli virgin light , its alway clean and smells good too.
A light aircraft oil might also be a good choice as they are very similar to the Porsche.
Like the old Castrol advertising states Liquid Engineering
If you're not racing or doing anything fancy with the vehicle just match the numbers and change it every 3000 miles.
RTFM. "Change it regularly" doesn't mean every 3 to 5k miles. Follow the recommended service interval (unless you hammer your car on the track). I was surprised to learn that my 25 year old American made push rod V8 had a 7k mile interval on conventional oil. Hey, the manual was buried under 25 years of detritus and the truck hadn't moved in 5 years. My Audi goes 10ks miles and has a light on the dash that tells me when it's due. The old F150 gets it once a year whether it needs it or not. The big motor Bronco gets it at the beginning of every major road trip. If you're changing the oil every 3-5k in a daily driver you're throwing money away. Again R.T.F.M.
One oil change every 2000 miles for street use is just throwing your money away. 6000 miles will be fine with any engine use, even a very aggressive one.
It’s amusing how people interchange tolerance and clearance.
Another simple explanation , the W in oil is for winter , it's the weight of the oil in cold temps , like 30 degrees and below . Once the oil warms up , it switches it's viscosity to the other number once it's warm, over 30 degrees or something like that , ferenheight . Basically use whatever the manufacturer tells you to use lol how stupid are people really ! ?!? ! I'm not going to even get into the SAE grades !
Nice Porche... but have tail lights looks so old... do you have any plans of replacing it?
I watch your video on its paint job. Really perfect. But the tail lights wasn’t even addressed at all... really ruins the look
lol suit up like one of The Village People, priceless, for everything else there's MasterCard
Just asking,oil filter change. Why put it on when the oil isn't done flowing out ? Did you preload the filter. Thks a head of time
Oil is always used as a coolant. It’s just whether the oil is cooled by water or by air.
Infomative.What about brands?Is there a significant difference.Is castrol better than Quaker State for example
First off, there is a huge difference between Dino oil and synthetic. You get what you pay for. Semi synthetics are junk. There is a conflict of interest for the manufacturer to specify the oil required. Who is going to sell you the replacement parts when the engine wears out? The intervals are still critical. Total Oil is blah. I have never seen a car getting the checkered flag that was running Total. If you want good oil, get out your money. Redline, Valvoline, Royal Purple make 20/50 that is noticeably different. Zinc is good but many other additives also matter. Heat kills oil. It makes it break down and the viscosity lowers. Certain additives enhance the heat endurance.
Oil is always a coolant, regardless of whether an engine is air or water-cooled
Just use Motorcycle oil in Cars, it has to be much better quality because loads of bikes have been air-cooled for donkeys years and have at least twice the redline of Car engines.
Slow blinking!
I talked to a friend that works at an oil refinery and he told me that every brand of fuel gets the same fuel then each company adds 5 to 10 gallons of their additives to a tanker of fuel or roughly 5 gallons of additive per 4000 gallons of fuel. So brand of fuel is mostly sales hype.
We are talking about oil here, not fuel. Fuel is what makes your car go, oil if what makes your engine run smoothly with constant lubrication. No need to thank me just remember this for future.
@@mudza92 Don't be an ass I was talking about additives and using fuel as an example
@@VTECforDays woow easy boy, I was just educating you, it is for your own good! you're the one being an ass here, you don't scold the hand that feeds you as the old people used to say
@@mudza92 I did not need your education I am not that stupid. I am done with this channel,
@@VTECforDays Oh yeah you did, you just don't know it yet, but you will when you grow up
Something doesn't make sense .. if the owners manual says 5w30 and you live in a super hot country like in the middle of the desert .. would you still use 5w30 or 20w50 since the lab tech expert says use something specific to the weather as too hot weather will make the thinner oil useless .. but at the end of the video he says follow the user manual instruction and religiously change the oil at the required intervals .
motor oils sold in stores have a letter grading on the cap or label that indicate a compliance with an additive package minimum that meets federal requirements. If you have a car made in the last few years built to be sold in the US as long as you use the oil weight indicated on your 710(oil) cap or in your owners manual for those who are literate, you don't need to worry about the oil you are putting in your car. Change your oil when you can no longer read the writing on the dipstick. Stick to the same brand but stay away from store brands. Your engine will not have an oil related failure. A lack of oil is not an oil failure. Auto manufacturers and dealers cannot tell you you must use their oil unless they are going to provide it to you free. If they try to you should immediately leave their premises.
*i disagree with the whole "regardless of the brand" statement. i used conventional SAE 5W30 castrol / valvoline motor oil in One of my chevrolet trucks for 10 years my other one that i actually bought with MORE miles (almost double) that had always had ONLY Mobil 1 fully synthetic oil in it out lasted the truck with the conventional oil in it, in fact it trippled the miles so since that time i use the proper grade but only fully synthetic motor oil in all of my vehicles and i have yet to be let down by them. at least not by the rotating assembly in any of them. i have been let down a time or two by accessories or the drive train but never the engine it's self*
But know one ever talks about an engine build? And what weight and oil you should use such as a conventional oil? Or full synthetic? I have a 2013 ZL1 with a stage 3 cam and full bolt ons. The builder recommended Rotella 15w/40 in my engine! What are the benefits in this vs manufactures recommendations?
I'm not mentioning a brand but you really need a true synthetic group 4 and 5 base oil that can take much more heat ..
Wished you would have asked more about the additives and what they chemically achieve.
they make your oil thin at freezing temperature so your engine gets lubricated as soon as it starts, at higher temperatures those aditives have no effect because it is a precise blend meant for winter temperatures, so at higher temperatures oil still retains the right amount of viscosity required for engine to run smoothly. Just follow your car requirements for oil and thats it, regular change of oil and filters will make your engine run many years without problems.
Total...my grandma used to eat that Cereal!
Great info Larry, as usual. Cheers!