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I put 10W 40 in my GTO

Just wondering... all those saying they are wrong to recommend 20/50, what OBJECTIVE data are you basing this on, or is it just your OPINION? What actual TESTS have you done? PROVE you're right and they are wrong, or just say you have an OPINION...

Oh these guys know

Outside of marketing, refer to your owners/service manual for your vehicle. As for "acids during storage", that's why oils have a additive package which marketing also likes use the term "detergent" a part of the package, as is calcium and zinc with other such elements.

Interesting, thanks

Can the Penngrade1 be used it the engine has a 2 piece rear main seal ??

Can your oil be used with a 2 piece rear main seal?

I remember kendall gt 1 20 50 was the green oil. Best oil way back when. It had Don Garlits autograph and pic on the box. Then it was not green after the EPA stepped in.

20W-50 ???? This is going to destroy a fresh built such as a 350 small block Chevy. You can't look at the manufacture recommendation if you are going to modify your engine. What a stupid advice from PennGrade 1

It's not rocket science. Use the viscosity recommended when the car was made.

My neighbor a mechanic. Uses 0W-10 Royal Purple racing oil in his 1970 Buick Stage 1. Roller cam, aluminum single plain intake, headers, rock crusher, 4:30 posi rear. He consistently runs in the 11s with a best of 11.89 at 119 mph.

Bearing clearance hasn't changed significantly since we had the capacity to spec them. I wouldn't trust these clowns with my used motor oil.

Great product, I swear by it. 1986 944 Turbo track car that I love like my son. Keep up the great work!

Tell the truth of the oil, all crude oil is black when it comes from the ground, the green tint comes from the Hydrocracking of the oil which will leave a green tent. When hydrogen is applied the the base stock to remove the impurities .

In Germany for all OHV engines we mostly use new old stock east german made ADDINOL MV244 new old stock API SD and SE oil this is former Wolga and Lada Taxicab engine oil perfect for US cars due to lots of poison and zinc inside its 20W40: de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Datei:DDR_Motor%C3%B6l_Addinol_Super_MV244.jpg

20w50 NUTZ

Check your owner's manual if you have one.

Living in Australia, 20w50 oil is the best oil for any Chev, Ford or Chrysler V8 produced in the 1970s because of our climate. In my 59 years, I've owned 50 odd of small block and big block cars and to this day I run Penrite Oils in all my cars without an oil related failure.

What a clown. "OK pops, I got this, even though you have decades of experience over me, you can only talk for 28 seconds."

Use a 5W-30 synthetic in these cars as long as correct oil pressure is met...all you need.

Hey Brandon do you have a 3xl T Shirt I can wear to my Legal Job?

I really enjoy seeing a representative that stands behind a product with so much care and passion. Ken does an exceptional job conveying a message that resonates with the automotive world in regards to oil lubricants.

Hi, I just bought a 1973 corvette with a 350 CC engine. I plan on using 20-50 oil for my first oil change. Do you think that’s a good choice. I live in Oklahoma where it gets really hot in the summertime. Thank you.

3000 mile oil change intervall is completely unnessecary. You can easliy drive double that without any problems whats´o´ever. This is just another myth that oil manufacturers recommend in order to rip you off.

Overton is a cherry picking, low down cheater. I hope he sails over the turn 3 wall, and is never heard from again.

Best oil all the time 20w50 this what you should use In all classic engine

Good presentation!

that cutlass needs 10w-40 all day long. If it is very worn, maybe 20w-50.

Thank you for this very informative I have a 93 and a 91 Celica G T they are used seasonally the manual says use 10 W 30 Conventional Oil I Use the Castrol Brand for years Both Cars have 130.000 on them and get stored in Winter What thoughts would you have ?

So where can I find it for sale ?????? I live in Houston, Texas. What is the amount of the anti-wear additives like ZDDP ???

Are you willing to pay for someone's engine if your wrong?. Never change the viscosity of what the manufacturer engineered for that engine. All vehicles are engineered. Every single thing that goes into the manufacturing of an automobile has a part number to it,and that includes oil. I know this guy who changed the viscosity grade of his engine to a thicker grade and blew it up. It was to thick on a cold start up and to thin at operating temperature. Are you prepared to buy someone's engine if your wrong because you are. Manufacturer's spend million of dollars a year for research and development.

You guys overlooked a very important aspect of choosing proper oil for classic cars from the 50’s,60’s & 70’s which is as follows. Many of the engines built in the USA in that era had flat tappet cams & lifters that require higher levels of ZDDP/Zinc & Phosphorus (anti wear & scuff additive) in the approx range of 1200-1300ppm for stock setups with mild cam lobe design & lighter valve spring rates & 1400-1500ppm to max of 1800ppm for higher perf FT Cams with more aggressive lobe design & higher/stiffer valve spring rates. The majority of over the shelf 10w-30/10w-40/20w-50 visc oils mfg’d today many of which classic cars use in fact have greatly reduced zddp lvls in approx 600-800ppm range (due to fed emission Reg’s protecting cat converters). This lower ZDDP level can eventually lead to premature ft cam & lifter wear & failure often ruining the motors bearings,cyls,rings,crank,cam & lifters in the process when that happens & does from time to time esp if/when using oil with low zddp level in an old school flat tappet cam & lifter app. Many of the PennGrade oils mentioned here do in fact have the elevated ZDDP lvl required for safe FT Cam & Lifter operation & protection but they still still should have mentioned it when ever rec oil for any fla tappet cam app used in a classic vehicle. Many people & even some supposed people in the know aren’t aware of this issue or don’t believe it’s true when it is the case. This goes for cars, trucks, motorcycles, lawn mower engines from that era using flat tappet cams. Elevated ZDDP level in motor oil is also added protection from excessive heat in air cooled engines too. Happy Motoring!

1:33, recommends straight 30 oil because of the bearing clearances. 2:04, In this case use a 20W-50 in this Cutlass. WHY?????

Thanks

Appreciate the video but you ultimately suggest 20/50 for the Cutlass because of how it will be used but don’t describe how it will be used?

Single weight, mineral straight 30 is supposed to be very good for storage, ...clings to parts much better than multi weight oils.

over 250 thousand won at eldora..without cheating I hope...

I’ve owned a 70 Z28 since 1981 and only summer drive it and don’t use anything lower than 10w40. Depending on the weather, I have used, 30wt, 10w40, 15w40 and 20w50. If you want your internals cleaned once in a while, then use 15w40 cause it’s a diesel oil.

hello i have a 1970 318 chrysler oil ..i store the car sept to end of april and every 2 weeks i atart the car and drive it in the warehouse for 10 minutes until it gets to optimum temperature then i park the car again , by doing this am i doing the engine and oil a favor or am i just making things more bad for the oil etc ..i use 10w30 penngrade oil

whats the lowest temperature you can run 20w50 penn grade oil?

I have a 1989 Nissanpathfinder with a vg30i engine what oil do you recommend

Overton is amazing to watch.

Good to har some clear sense on Classic Cars and oil. I've got a 1990 Miata, first gen 1.6lt normally aspirated. Factory recommends a 20w:40 or 40, which of course would have been a mineral oil. Lots of my fellow enthusiasts are use 10w:30 high end sythetic. I think it's too light. These cars a prone to hyraulic lifter tick on start up and warm up, as is mine. You can sometimes get a little bearing knock also until warm up if oil pressure is lowish as idle. I split the difference and I'm currently running a Castrol UltraClean 15w:40 semi synth. However, I'm thinking on my next summer oil change to go to 20w:50 mineral. Thoughts?

I have used Brad Penn for 2 decades. I recently tore down my big block chevy because of a broken valve spring and found rust in the cylinder cross hatches, on the crankshaft and the connecting rods. There was an abnormal amount of cylinder wear because of rust. The Penngrade oil also smells different than the bottle of Brad Penn I have on the shelf. I'm not buying the story anymore. Today I ordered 2 cases of Driven GP1.

What do you guys recommend for the (very spirited) street turbocharged 4 cylinder motors?

Miss that Snapple car so much Marco! Get them in 2019!