Just got this stupid stability track after getting tires changed this morning everything was fine but now , AWD turned off , ABS bullshit happened to me today, and im about 60 miles away from home . Thank you for this video because when I tried to drive, it felt like my brakes were on and fighting back . I took the 2 fuses off (it's a 2012 GMC terrain 2.4 btw), and drove around my jobs parking lot and everything feels normal except for the dam warning lights 😅 hopefully I can make it home from work 60 miles + rush hour traffic.
Did you manage to fix the problem?pretty much the same happened to me after changing tires,stability and abs lights engage if i go on a bumpy road,and if go over 50 m/h the whole system turn of … i have code for abs wheel speed sensor,which i changed ,also changed the wheel hub but nothing happens …
@yordanhubev6837 @davidbryant5875 For me, it was the front left wheel bearing . there's a magnetic strip that the speed sensor makes contact with, and if that magnetic strip breaks away, it will give a failure because it no longer makes contact with the speed sensor , when they changed my tire the vibration of the impact gun must've been enough to fully knock off said magnetic strip and cause this problem. The solution is to replace the wheel bearings . Which I had to do because 2 months later, of course, commuting without these sensors, I noticed a weird humming sound coming from the front driver side , turns out my wheel bearing was going bad 👎 and needed to be replaced I had both front replaced and it set me back $540 . I bought the 2 front bearing from Auto Zone for $190, the set of 2 . And found a shop willing to install them .
Having issues with my 2018 Chevy Trax, I need to change my front tires here soon, but about a month ago I got my rear passenger tire patched. The tire place didn't even reconnect the tire sensor and said it would cost $80 to do so, so I'm looking into fixing that sensor now. Just yesterday, on what I call Fatherless Day, I had my Stabilitrak decide that, in the 7Eleven parking lot of a city about 30 miles from home, it needed to be serviced. I couldn't accelerate, I had to literally gas her to get any movement, and then she refused to brake when I tried to move and park her for a tow back home (I wasn't about to drive on the interstate like that...) I have yet to go take a look at her since, but I fear the many reasons this might be happening. Her engine light is on, and she says every time turn her over to service tire monitor system, and then immediately after to service stabilitrak. I just wanna know what I'm doing before my broke ass has to go and try to do it myself first. So what are my chances of it just being that damn tire sensor? Or anything else for that matter? Edit: I also had JUST gotten gas, and I noticed someone below mentioning how water-contaminated gas made their car act similar, so what the hell, it could be anything 😂
My 2013 Impala has been having drivability issues only when turning left and the traction control light comes on. It is random though, doesn’t happen on every turn. Would this be the suggested quick fix for that until I can get it into a shop next week? How unsafe is it to drive with those fuses out?
@@ybanyoubuildanation8131 hello! Mine ended up being my wheel harness (I think that’s what it’s called) so it was an easy fix. The harness was broke so when I turned it was making the noise!
I have a 2007 buick Lucerne and my tire sensor light is already on, but today I started it and ABS, Traction, and the red light came on and my car started dinging & something about stability came across the dash. Do you think you would know what it could be should I not drive it or what. But I haven’t took in to a mechanic yet so im kind of lost.
What’s up Chris, I got a 2010 Camaro ss and I just changed my wheels to aftermarket. Once I finished I took the car around the block and the stabilitrack abs break light all came on with no check engine light. Any guesses what might be wrong?
Im having the same issues with my 2011 gmc terrain. If I remove these fuses it will be safe to drive? We replaced the 2 front abs sensors but it didn’t fix the issue.
Your car will be like a car without ABS or traction control. It will be as safe as a car without those features. Changing ABS sensors will only work if you change the correct wheel that has the problem or if the problem is at the wheel. If the problem is the wire loom going back to the computer, you have to diagnose it there.
I have 07 Impala i have service traction control and service tire monitor system lights on. I took it to autozone for the scanner and it came up under most likely solution: replace variable valve timing actuator.... then next to it said suggested parts: camshaft gear. Then i got P0300 with a couple secondary dtc's
Hey Chris I have a 2020 Nissan Frontier and sometimes the traction control lights comes on and off and sometimes it stays on. Since that’s been happening the truck skids a lot in raining days and specially when turning at a very low speed. Basically the truck drives like if I purposely turn off the traction control off. Could this be a faulty wheel speed sensor? Thanks 🤟🏻
It could be a fault speed sensor, or the quality of the wiring is starting to break down or, less commonly, a faulty steering angle sensor. I'd start by looking at the wiring since it's the only thing that isn't hidden from view. Also scan the BCM if you can get your mechanic to do that.
Service stabilitrak service abs and traction comtrol, all wheel sensors are new as are brakes ebcm bad? Traction comtrol button when u push it doesn't turn lights off their constantly on
Hey Chris so I have been having the same issue with my 2009 gmc 1500 truck and every time I switch my my cars gear from P to D and drive off I always get traction control , stabiltrack and the abs light on and all of a sudden my brakes start malfunctioning, pulsating and stuttering like crazy for no reason and I’ve had this problem for quite some time now i took it one day to the dealership and told them about it and they’re response was that there was some sort of bad sensor part that was causing all these lights to come on my dashboard and that they couldn’t fix it unless they were to get a new part from the gmc manufacturer but turns out that part is discontinued so now it looks like a permanent problem but I don’t know if they’re just not really telling what’s going on with the truck or if they just don’t want to fix it because at first I had an issue with my steering wheel controls and horn that wasn’t working and I told them about it but they didn’t fix the issue but then I decided to go this local mechanic shop close to my house and all they did was replace a broken clock spring and the steering wheel horn and controls were back to normal so like I said I don’t know if the dealership was just not really telling me what’s going on or they just don’t know how to fix it so anyways I’m really hoping I can get this poroblem sorted out cause it’s starting to get very frustrating and annoying every time I drive with my truck I’m praying I can get this fixed asap
If it were me, I'd first pull the fuse going to the ABS motors to disable the system, since it's obviously a hazard to drive like that. Then it depends on how loyal you are to the existing mechanic. If you don't mind going elsewhere, they should be able to tell you what code the BCM is throwing (ie, which wheel or if the steeling wheel, etc). Then repairs should be easy after that. If you stick with the current guy, tell him to show you his Tech II scan results, so he's not BS'ing you. If it's just a wheel speed sensor, as it often is, you can tell him to check the wire loom condition coming from that wheel and if it's in good shape and has electrical continuity, then maybe the wheel hub just needs replacement. If the hub is old, then that's likely the problem.
@@ChrisCamaro yes I’ll definitely take of that fuse off temporarily so I can stop that from happening first and yes I am going to attempt to go to this local shop that fixed my steering wheel and see if they can try I’ll just tell him what I have been experiencing with the truck locking, stuttering and pulsating the brakes I’m just really hoping it gets fixed but do you think this might be a permanent problem I’ll have to deal with forever or should it be an easy fix from my mechanic ?
@@arnoldgamez2408 Oh it's repairaable but it's one of those 90% labour, 10% parts deal if it's not just an old wheel hub. Mine was diagnosed in about 10 minutes out of sheer luck but it can take hours if the problem isn't obvious. It definitely helps to scan first, as this cuts the work down to about 25%
The TCS would not cause your car to stall and that's if it's working. If you're getting a TCS service light, then the TCS likely will not work, in which case it will not deliberately misfire either. So if the car is stalling or misfiring, it's something else. I would use a code scanner to look for engine codes.
@@markbailey1423 I looked up that code and it has to do with the 5V reference voltage on the A circuit inside the PCM. Basically there are several circuits inside your car's computer, just like in your house, how you have different circuits for your lights or your stove or whatever. 1 of those circuits inside the car's computer is out of spec. It's supposed to put out 5V but probably putting out 4.2 or something like that. This will affect whatever sensors are attached to circuit A so it could cause multiple failures. This isn't a component problem. Your sensors are fine. It's the computer. You need to replace your PCM.
it's the worst on an Equinox. if you have the issue it will completely disable the all wheel drive. almost killed me and my family in a snow storm. that's a serious design flaw
My 2014 GMC terrain stabilitrak and power steering light comes on randomly, when it does the doors for crazy locking and unlocking, and the car shifts down so hard that it jarred my neck. Mechanic stated loss of communication to TCM and offered no further help. Grounds are all good, no damage to wiring. I'm at a loss.
That sounds serious, like a scrambled OBDII data stream or something sending random commands across the bus. I wouldn't normally jump to conclusions or anything but if you've got door locks and downshifts at random, it would seem prudent to just try a components swap, starting with each of the computer modules (ECM, TCM, BCM). Whichever fixes the problem, I guess you could always sell the ones you didn't need. Seems better than getting in a car accident.
hey im about to buy a buick that has these lights on and the brakes are soft like almost all they way to the floor. Do you have an idea of what could be wrong?
If you haven't found luck tracking the issue down as I have done in the video, the next option would be to ask a mechanic to use their Tech II tool to scan the body control module (BCM), which will let you know if one of the wheel speed sensors is malfunctioning or if those are all fine, something else perhaps.
I have a camaro ss 2017, I got long tube headers installed and I got the stabilitrak light on and my check engine light on. But my check engine light is on cause of my O2 sensors but I just wanted to know if you would know what’s the problem with my car. Also my reverse camera is wrong and the guidelines will turn off.
My personal experience with my own camaro has been that when you get an error, you get lots of them. I did a whole video on that. The computer just freaks out and you get lights that don't really mean anything. Mind you, I have a 2013, which is based on the zeta platform. Your 2017 is built on the alpha platform (Cadillac ATS with a different shell), so it's probably not parts compatible. Still I find these cars pretty flaky. I only bought mine for the LS3 and the retro look lol. Fuck the rest. I wouldn't mind just pulling every fuse in the box and driving it around like a 60s car :P
Have 2013, love it, but... stabilatrak, tcs, brake assist, gauges in and out, door lock pop , wont go at acceleration, then will, engine light on and off, then on. Now occasionally it wont start at initial try. Walk away come back, fires. Sometimes after driving it and turni g off. Runs fine lime its supposed. I know it can be a multitude of issues, wheel speed sensor, trans modgule, broken wires, just feel the charlie brown cloud is following too much. Any ideas, had it in a few different times, reset scanned, all good, then comes back with a vengeance,ever hear of this extreme!? Taking it in wed. Friends shop, but teying to get an idea to help them eliminate time being wasted.
@@dnh1107 sorry I was out of town ,no internet, so my mechanic went through every possible connector, inspected, observed, dielectric grease, disconnected battery, had several codes before, checked wheel sensors, reconnected battery, and boom. Kmock on wood. No issues, driven over 750 miles since, runs like a raped ape. Idk, best of all, no charge, they tinkered with between jobs, they had a power outage and I let them keep for 3 days as I didnt need. I guess a loose fitting connector is the best diagnosis!
I floored it at a red light and my Stabilitrak, ABS, traction control, and check engine lights all came on. Also felt a sort of knocking in the front left wheel hub area when stopped. Based on that I feel like it's an ABS issue or maybe a wheel position sensor but I don't know. Do you have a recommended course of action? Im planning on borrowing a code reader and maybe replacing the spark plugs if its a misfire.
If the check engine came on then there may be something in the ECM that's wrong and the TCS system lights coming on "could" be a red herring. To known for sure, definitely use a scanner because it will pick up whatever is causing the check engine light. From there you might get a clue if that code is in some way related to the traction lights.
Check for water in your fuel My chevy express 3500 suffered the problem of water contaminated fuel. Causing the engine to stutter and misfire. That triggered the stabilitrac/traction. control error message. Total fail by Chevy engineering 👎😡
You won't see any codes with any scanner that you buy at the store because they only check the engine and transmission. You need a Tech 2 or equivalent that's capable of checking the body control module. Any mechanic will have one and it's much cheaper than buying one since they are quite expensive
@@donflaco713 You may not see the error live. You have to go into fault history to see what recent PIDs have been flagged. The problem with the TCS is if it's a wiring problem, you will have it fail while driving but then you park the car and the wires touch again and the system seems fine. That's why the fault history is often the only way to properly diagnose these issues
Have you ever had issues with downhill braking control light staying red on dashboard and Cruze control won’t turn on .how to figure out way light is on and what kind of scanner can scan it?thanks
The problem is, the ABS, traction control, etc is all part of the BCM (Body Control Module) and most scanners don't have access to that. Mechanics have a tool that can scan it though so your best bet at finding the problem electronically is to ask the mechanic to check.
I’m having a similar issue in a ‘15 Mustang. The Service ADV TRAC light lit up quickly for a sec then went away and never showed up again. This was about a year ago. Didn’t think anything of it because I wasn’t experiencing any drivability issues. FF to NOW. She skips and skids on DRY road under initial acceleration but let’s up as speed increases. Almost as if she’s trying to find her footing. And also doesn’t happen all the time (which makes me kind of rule out the rear Dif) if sort of an intermediate thing Any insight would be awesome. Don’t want to get robbed at the stealership.
Are you a "spirited" driver? Because you have a mustang and you're talking about accelerating, this may just be the traction control working normally and perhaps the tires are old or getting bald. I wore out my stock Camaro tires from 2013 all the way to 2021 until the steel bands were exposed on both sides (stupid... never do that) and the car slid all over the place. I'm not saying this is you but after most of the rubber is gone, torqey muscle cars will break away quite easily from a stand still.
@@ChrisCamaro ahhh I see what you’re saying. But the tires are only about 2 months old. I’m only talking “merge onto the Highway” acceleration. Like drop from 5th to 4th to switch lanes, and there’s a slight rumble/skid feeling for a second or two when I press the gas pedal but scrubs off as the car accelerates. I’m not talking slamming the pedal., just moderate everyday situation driving. Fairly new car. What do u think? 😵💫
@@JayOhhTheKing If the car is new and you're not mashing it, maybe it's a tire diameter discrepancy. Are all tires inflated equally? Sometimes low pressure on 1 tire can throw the computer off.
At least in the cars I've seen with TCS failure, all 3 lights come on including 1 that appears like a parking brake but it's not a parking brake. It's the ABS light.
If the airbag light is also on (assuming there's nothing wrong with the airbag) then that doesn't sound like a TCS issue. It sounds more like what happens when you have a low battery that won't crank and a bunch of lights come up on the dash. You could check your charging system first and then if everything's good there, scan the car for codes.
Can you help me sir please my camaro 2011 v6 has a code c0050-5a code and it says Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Circuit Not Plausible? Whats does that mean?
It's a stupid way of saying that the signal coming from that wheel speed sensor doesn't make sense (either because it's shorted high or low or erratic but anything other than normal). It's probably a wiring issue similar to what caused my fault. If the wheel hub has a lot of miles on it, it could need replacement. Otherwise it could be the wire loom connecting it to the computer. If your wheel hub is old and worn, it wouldn't be a bad idea to just change it and see if the problem goes away. If not, at least a) you can focus on the wiring and b) you have a new wheel hub that you probably needed anyway.
Idk if you could help me or not on this but, I have a 2009 impala that I’ve changed the throttle body, throttle body position sensor, pedal position sensor, PCM, yet my car still gets thrown into reduced power mode and service traction control, scanner says I have a voltage correlation with the throttle body and pedal, sometimes I can drive it a month at a time or it does it 5 times in one day. Any recommendations?
It sounds like a sensor problem, especially if the electronic TB isn't in sync with the pedal but to be honest, you seem to have tried all the obvious. I'm not terribly familiar with how the throttle system works but maybe it needs a re-learn. Maybe the sensors are fine but after replacing them they need re-calibration. It's just a thought but I'd have to look into it to know more.
I think it is but not sure wth is going on. I replaced throttle body with new sensor new pedal with new sensor both ac Delco genuine gm products also put new coil packs on and still getting throttle and pedal sensor code have had it cleared did the battery unhook method still getting the code tho. Any ideas on what it is?
When the suspension flexes and moves around as would be the case stopping, starting and turning, it causes the wire bundles coming from the wheel speed sensors to flex as well. If there are any flaws in any of the wires, this can cause an intermittent signal in that wire
I have a 2007 chevy impala it just got it and the the tpms light came on after I had it fixed and the low traction light is on it jerks from front to back is that normal. My husband changed the spark plugs and did work on it. I took it toget a oil change and replaced the battery he check the tyranny I drove it an hour and the lights came on again and is jerking I don't know why. Could you help
I don't think any of the work you had done would cause those symptoms. It sounds like you have the same problem that I discuss in this video. 1 of the wheel speed sensors is either bad or the wiring going back to the computer is bad, or 1 of the tires is flat, or the steering angle sensor is not reporting correct values. In order to know for sure, you need to get a mechanic to scan the car and see if it is throwing any codes. You can also follow the advice in this video to do a visual check of the wiring yourself.
Hmm... I've never had that happen before. For me it's just the brakes that act up. To lose power steering might be a more serious electrical/computer problem. Is everything grounded properly in your car? Grounding is a common and serious problem that can cause a computer to freak out and various systems to randomly misbehave.
It won't do anything bad to the car except that you won't have any Traction or ABS. I would say it's about as safe as driving a car made 20 years ago that didn't have these features.
I HAVE A 2015 CHEVY SONIC LTZ THAT I BOUGHT USED AND COUPLE WEEKS LATER IT STARTED ACTING LIKE IT WAS POSSESSED. I DO REGULAR MAINTENANCE BUT I'M AFRAID TO DRIVE IT. I'M GOING TO START REPLACING STUFF.
It's normal for the lights to come on when the system is active and working. You should only be concerned if it's coming on when it's obviously not supposed to (abs when you're not braking, TCS when the roads have good traction, etc).
@@ChrisCamaro I have been having issues with my ATS. Doing research, it brought me to your video. I think what he means is sometimes P0300 code is going off as well. My issues first started with a check engine light and oil leak. My regular mechanic I think new this was a can of worms and told to go to the dealership. He suggested new valve cover, and change the pcv hoses as they were bad. I go to dealer ship, they said only the pcv hoses were my issue. Next day, my car started shaking, stabililok , ABS and TC lights came on. CEL was flashing. they turned off but when speeding up and slowing down, it would feel like it was mis-firing and I confirmed with a scanner. I called dealership and they said it's a new issue and bring the car in and tow as I should not drive it. I said it was fine until after they touched it. But I beat them down on the repair charge as I said the car leaked 2 years ago and the broke the hoses and cheaply fixed it rather than replace when it was under warranty. I found oil in the ignition coil pockets. I cleaned them out a few days ago and it drives a little better, no lights came on now but if I hit the gas, it is rough and stutters a bit. So I am back to changing the gaskets and pcv valves as there could be vacuum issue. I still don't know why they lights all came on, so I have your video to keep an eye one because maybe the dealership damaged the harness when they said they washed the underside of car when looking for oil leak. Car ran much better with CEL light, oil leaking and pcv hoses broken.
Uhhh you're going to look pretty stupid when anyone removes those 2 fuses and their "auto" (you mean car?) does start and drive perfectly fine. Don't smear misinformation on my channel please. I hate that.
THANKS FOR THE HELP i like how you explain everything i need to know . Great job with the editing 💯
Just got this stupid stability track after getting tires changed this morning everything was fine but now , AWD turned off , ABS bullshit happened to me today, and im about 60 miles away from home .
Thank you for this video because when I tried to drive, it felt like my brakes were on and fighting back .
I took the 2 fuses off (it's a 2012 GMC terrain 2.4 btw), and drove around my jobs parking lot and everything feels normal except for the dam warning lights 😅 hopefully I can make it home from work 60 miles + rush hour traffic.
Yeah the lights suck but at least you won't lose control of the car so I'm glad the vid helped you on your commute!
Did you manage to fix the problem?pretty much the same happened to me after changing tires,stability and abs lights engage if i go on a bumpy road,and if go over 50 m/h the whole system turn of … i have code for abs wheel speed sensor,which i changed ,also changed the wheel hub but nothing happens …
Mine did the same thing after getting tires changed why would it mess it up?
@yordanhubev6837 @davidbryant5875 For me, it was the front left wheel bearing . there's a magnetic strip that the speed sensor makes contact with, and if that magnetic strip breaks away, it will give a failure because it no longer makes contact with the speed sensor , when they changed my tire the vibration of the impact gun must've been enough to fully knock off said magnetic strip and cause this problem.
The solution is to replace the wheel bearings . Which I had to do because 2 months later, of course, commuting without these sensors, I noticed a weird humming sound coming from the front driver side , turns out my wheel bearing was going bad 👎 and needed to be replaced I had both front replaced and it set me back $540 .
I bought the 2 front bearing from Auto Zone for $190, the set of 2 . And found a shop willing to install them .
Having issues with my 2018 Chevy Trax, I need to change my front tires here soon, but about a month ago I got my rear passenger tire patched. The tire place didn't even reconnect the tire sensor and said it would cost $80 to do so, so I'm looking into fixing that sensor now. Just yesterday, on what I call Fatherless Day, I had my Stabilitrak decide that, in the 7Eleven parking lot of a city about 30 miles from home, it needed to be serviced. I couldn't accelerate, I had to literally gas her to get any movement, and then she refused to brake when I tried to move and park her for a tow back home (I wasn't about to drive on the interstate like that...)
I have yet to go take a look at her since, but I fear the many reasons this might be happening. Her engine light is on, and she says every time turn her over to service tire monitor system, and then immediately after to service stabilitrak. I just wanna know what I'm doing before my broke ass has to go and try to do it myself first. So what are my chances of it just being that damn tire sensor? Or anything else for that matter?
Edit: I also had JUST gotten gas, and I noticed someone below mentioning how water-contaminated gas made their car act similar, so what the hell, it could be anything 😂
My 2013 Impala has been having drivability issues only when turning left and the traction control light comes on. It is random though, doesn’t happen on every turn. Would this be the suggested quick fix for that until I can get it into a shop next week? How unsafe is it to drive with those fuses out?
Was wondering did you get the problem fixed I have the same problem right now
@@ybanyoubuildanation8131 hello! Mine ended up being my wheel harness (I think that’s what it’s called) so it was an easy fix. The harness was broke so when I turned it was making the noise!
I have a 2007 buick Lucerne and my tire sensor light is already on, but today I started it and ABS, Traction, and the red light came on and my car started dinging & something about stability came across the dash. Do you think you would know what it could be should I not drive it or what. But I haven’t took in to a mechanic yet so im kind of lost.
What’s up Chris, I got a 2010 Camaro ss and I just changed my wheels to aftermarket. Once I finished I took the car around the block and the stabilitrack abs break light all came on with no check engine light. Any guesses what might be wrong?
What was the issue?
Im having the same issues with my 2011 gmc terrain. If I remove these fuses it will be safe to drive? We replaced the 2 front abs sensors but it didn’t fix the issue.
Your car will be like a car without ABS or traction control. It will be as safe as a car without those features. Changing ABS sensors will only work if you change the correct wheel that has the problem or if the problem is at the wheel. If the problem is the wire loom going back to the computer, you have to diagnose it there.
I have 07 Impala i have service traction control and service tire monitor system lights on. I took it to autozone for the scanner and it came up under most likely solution: replace variable valve timing actuator.... then next to it said suggested parts: camshaft gear. Then i got P0300 with a couple secondary dtc's
Hey Chris I have a 2020 Nissan Frontier and sometimes the traction control lights comes on and off and sometimes it stays on. Since that’s been happening the truck skids a lot in raining days and specially when turning at a very low speed. Basically the truck drives like if I purposely turn off the traction control off. Could this be a faulty wheel speed sensor? Thanks 🤟🏻
It could be a fault speed sensor, or the quality of the wiring is starting to break down or, less commonly, a faulty steering angle sensor. I'd start by looking at the wiring since it's the only thing that isn't hidden from view. Also scan the BCM if you can get your mechanic to do that.
Service stabilitrak service abs and traction comtrol, all wheel sensors are new as are brakes ebcm bad? Traction comtrol button when u push it doesn't turn lights off their constantly on
I would start by checking for codes and then if there's nothing there, check the wiring.
Hey Chris so I have been having the same issue with my 2009 gmc 1500 truck and every time I switch my my cars gear from P to D and drive off I always get traction control , stabiltrack and the abs light on and all of a sudden my brakes start malfunctioning, pulsating and stuttering like crazy for no reason and I’ve had this problem for quite some time now i took it one day to the dealership and told them about it and they’re response was that there was some sort of bad sensor part that was causing all these lights to come on my dashboard and that they couldn’t fix it unless they were to get a new part from the gmc manufacturer but turns out that part is discontinued so now it looks like a permanent problem but I don’t know if they’re just not really telling what’s going on with the truck or if they just don’t want to fix it because at first I had an issue with my steering wheel controls and horn that wasn’t working and I told them about it but they didn’t fix the issue but then I decided to go this local mechanic shop close to my house and all they did was replace a broken clock spring and the steering wheel horn and controls were back to normal so like I said I don’t know if the dealership was just not really telling me what’s going on or they just don’t know how to fix it so anyways I’m really hoping I can get this poroblem sorted out cause it’s starting to get very frustrating and annoying every time I drive with my truck I’m praying I can get this fixed asap
If it were me, I'd first pull the fuse going to the ABS motors to disable the system, since it's obviously a hazard to drive like that. Then it depends on how loyal you are to the existing mechanic. If you don't mind going elsewhere, they should be able to tell you what code the BCM is throwing (ie, which wheel or if the steeling wheel, etc). Then repairs should be easy after that. If you stick with the current guy, tell him to show you his Tech II scan results, so he's not BS'ing you. If it's just a wheel speed sensor, as it often is, you can tell him to check the wire loom condition coming from that wheel and if it's in good shape and has electrical continuity, then maybe the wheel hub just needs replacement. If the hub is old, then that's likely the problem.
@@ChrisCamaro yes I’ll definitely take of that fuse off temporarily so I can stop that from happening first and yes I am going to attempt to go to this local shop that fixed my steering wheel and see if they can try I’ll just tell him what I have been experiencing with the truck locking, stuttering and pulsating the brakes I’m just really hoping it gets fixed but do you think this might be a permanent problem I’ll have to deal with forever or should it be an easy fix from my mechanic ?
@@arnoldgamez2408 Oh it's repairaable but it's one of those 90% labour, 10% parts deal if it's not just an old wheel hub. Mine was diagnosed in about 10 minutes out of sheer luck but it can take hours if the problem isn't obvious. It definitely helps to scan first, as this cuts the work down to about 25%
My 07 tb ls gets lights on dash but no change in any drivability.
Hey man same issue in my impala it’s the abs harness not the hub , I’m going to unplug my fuse
Could the TCS saying that cause car to stall reduce speed mode and say service traction control
The TCS would not cause your car to stall and that's if it's working. If you're getting a TCS service light, then the TCS likely will not work, in which case it will not deliberately misfire either. So if the car is stalling or misfiring, it's something else. I would use a code scanner to look for engine codes.
@@ChrisCamaro thanks keep getting code po641 replace the tbs map tune up and fuel tank pressure sensor with no luck
And pedal sensor
@@markbailey1423 I looked up that code and it has to do with the 5V reference voltage on the A circuit inside the PCM. Basically there are several circuits inside your car's computer, just like in your house, how you have different circuits for your lights or your stove or whatever. 1 of those circuits inside the car's computer is out of spec. It's supposed to put out 5V but probably putting out 4.2 or something like that. This will affect whatever sensors are attached to circuit A so it could cause multiple failures. This isn't a component problem. Your sensors are fine. It's the computer. You need to replace your PCM.
@@ChrisCamaro thanks
it's the worst on an Equinox. if you have the issue it will completely disable the all wheel drive. almost killed me and my family in a snow storm. that's a serious design flaw
Yeah unfortunately all these systems require the wheel speed sensors so if they go, you've got nothing.
My 2011 Equinox lt dash warnings came on 2 weeks ago. Vehicle drives fine even at 75mph.
@@snatcher420 it will drive fine, you just no longer have all wheel drive. you basically have a front wheel drive until it's fixed
My 2014 GMC terrain stabilitrak and power steering light comes on randomly, when it does the doors for crazy locking and unlocking, and the car shifts down so hard that it jarred my neck. Mechanic stated loss of communication to TCM and offered no further help. Grounds are all good, no damage to wiring. I'm at a loss.
That sounds serious, like a scrambled OBDII data stream or something sending random commands across the bus. I wouldn't normally jump to conclusions or anything but if you've got door locks and downshifts at random, it would seem prudent to just try a components swap, starting with each of the computer modules (ECM, TCM, BCM). Whichever fixes the problem, I guess you could always sell the ones you didn't need. Seems better than getting in a car accident.
Likely it's the BCM.
hey im about to buy a buick that has these lights on and the brakes are soft like almost all they way to the floor. Do you have an idea of what could be wrong?
If the brakes are soft then there's air in the lines. That's not related to the TCS. I would have them bled and checked for leaks.
My trac light, VSC with engine light is on and the VSC keeps flashing. What could it mean? Thanks for your wonderful videos.
If you haven't found luck tracking the issue down as I have done in the video, the next option would be to ask a mechanic to use their Tech II tool to scan the body control module (BCM), which will let you know if one of the wheel speed sensors is malfunctioning or if those are all fine, something else perhaps.
@@ChrisCamaro thanks Chris, I’ll see a mechanic and see what he has to say. Catch ya later. Thanks
I have a camaro ss 2017, I got long tube headers installed and I got the stabilitrak light on and my check engine light on. But my check engine light is on cause of my O2 sensors but I just wanted to know if you would know what’s the problem with my car. Also my reverse camera is wrong and the guidelines will turn off.
My personal experience with my own camaro has been that when you get an error, you get lots of them. I did a whole video on that. The computer just freaks out and you get lights that don't really mean anything. Mind you, I have a 2013, which is based on the zeta platform. Your 2017 is built on the alpha platform (Cadillac ATS with a different shell), so it's probably not parts compatible. Still I find these cars pretty flaky. I only bought mine for the LS3 and the retro look lol. Fuck the rest. I wouldn't mind just pulling every fuse in the box and driving it around like a 60s car :P
Have 2013, love it, but... stabilatrak, tcs, brake assist, gauges in and out, door lock pop , wont go at acceleration, then will, engine light on and off, then on. Now occasionally it wont start at initial try. Walk away come back, fires. Sometimes after driving it and turni g off. Runs fine lime its supposed. I know it can be a multitude of issues, wheel speed sensor, trans modgule, broken wires, just feel the charlie brown cloud is following too much. Any ideas, had it in a few different times, reset scanned, all good, then comes back with a vengeance,ever hear of this extreme!? Taking it in wed. Friends shop, but teying to get an idea to help them eliminate time being wasted.
Did you find out what the issue was
@@dnh1107 sorry I was out of town ,no internet, so my mechanic went through every possible connector, inspected, observed, dielectric grease, disconnected battery, had several codes before, checked wheel sensors, reconnected battery, and boom. Kmock on wood. No issues, driven over 750 miles since, runs like a raped ape. Idk, best of all, no charge, they tinkered with between jobs, they had a power outage and I let them keep for 3 days as I didnt need. I guess a loose fitting connector is the best diagnosis!
@@patricwagner7147 okay. Very interesting. I'm going to head in that direction. Thank you.
@@dnh1107 believe me, I am still boggled! But am happy
I floored it at a red light and my Stabilitrak, ABS, traction control, and check engine lights all came on. Also felt a sort of knocking in the front left wheel hub area when stopped. Based on that I feel like it's an ABS issue or maybe a wheel position sensor but I don't know. Do you have a recommended course of action? Im planning on borrowing a code reader and maybe replacing the spark plugs if its a misfire.
If the check engine came on then there may be something in the ECM that's wrong and the TCS system lights coming on "could" be a red herring. To known for sure, definitely use a scanner because it will pick up whatever is causing the check engine light. From there you might get a clue if that code is in some way related to the traction lights.
@@ChrisCamaro Hooked up an OBD reader to it and just got an "Invalid input from ECM" Code on it. Pretty vague but I'll investigate further
Check for water in your fuel
My chevy express 3500 suffered the problem of water contaminated fuel. Causing the engine to stutter and misfire. That triggered the stabilitrac/traction. control error message.
Total fail by Chevy engineering 👎😡
@@jolujo5842 How did you come to the point of checking the fuel? I wouldn't have even suspected it.
I have the stabilitrak light on but when I use a scanner no code came up what should I do ?
You won't see any codes with any scanner that you buy at the store because they only check the engine and transmission. You need a Tech 2 or equivalent that's capable of checking the body control module. Any mechanic will have one and it's much cheaper than buying one since they are quite expensive
@@ChrisCamaro my homie runs a car shop an he had that big boy scanner an still nothing ?
@@donflaco713 You may not see the error live. You have to go into fault history to see what recent PIDs have been flagged. The problem with the TCS is if it's a wiring problem, you will have it fail while driving but then you park the car and the wires touch again and the system seems fine. That's why the fault history is often the only way to properly diagnose these issues
My 2012 chevy cruze stability trak came on also abs then my back passenger wheel locked up
Have you ever had issues with downhill braking control light staying red on dashboard and Cruze control won’t turn on .how to figure out way light is on and what kind of scanner can scan it?thanks
The problem is, the ABS, traction control, etc is all part of the BCM (Body Control Module) and most scanners don't have access to that. Mechanics have a tool that can scan it though so your best bet at finding the problem electronically is to ask the mechanic to check.
Thank you very much :)
Happy to help!
I’m having a similar issue in a ‘15 Mustang. The Service ADV TRAC light lit up quickly for a sec then went away and never showed up again. This was about a year ago. Didn’t think anything of it because I wasn’t experiencing any drivability issues. FF to NOW. She skips and skids on DRY road under initial acceleration but let’s up as speed increases. Almost as if she’s trying to find her footing. And also doesn’t happen all the time (which makes me kind of rule out the rear Dif) if sort of an intermediate thing
Any insight would be awesome. Don’t want to get robbed at the stealership.
Are you a "spirited" driver? Because you have a mustang and you're talking about accelerating, this may just be the traction control working normally and perhaps the tires are old or getting bald. I wore out my stock Camaro tires from 2013 all the way to 2021 until the steel bands were exposed on both sides (stupid... never do that) and the car slid all over the place. I'm not saying this is you but after most of the rubber is gone, torqey muscle cars will break away quite easily from a stand still.
@@ChrisCamaro ahhh I see what you’re saying. But the tires are only about 2 months old. I’m only talking “merge onto the Highway” acceleration. Like drop from 5th to 4th to switch lanes, and there’s a slight rumble/skid feeling for a second or two when I press the gas pedal but scrubs off as the car accelerates. I’m not talking slamming the pedal., just moderate everyday situation driving. Fairly new car. What do u think? 😵💫
@@JayOhhTheKing If the car is new and you're not mashing it, maybe it's a tire diameter discrepancy. Are all tires inflated equally? Sometimes low pressure on 1 tire can throw the computer off.
Can a Chevy HHR run with wheel sensor/esc unplugged
Not 100% sure but I should think so. Many of these systems would not interfere with the higher priority of being able to actually drive the car.
Thanks
Hey I have a 2010 Silverado I have stability track and traction control but also parking brake light when brake is not on what could it be?
At least in the cars I've seen with TCS failure, all 3 lights come on including 1 that appears like a parking brake but it's not a parking brake. It's the ABS light.
@@ChrisCamarogotcha im still trying to figure out but just can
hey i got a couple lights on that just appeared i have a air bag light on and stabiltrack and abs lights are on what could they be ?
If the airbag light is also on (assuming there's nothing wrong with the airbag) then that doesn't sound like a TCS issue. It sounds more like what happens when you have a low battery that won't crank and a bunch of lights come up on the dash. You could check your charging system first and then if everything's good there, scan the car for codes.
Can you help me sir please my camaro 2011 v6 has a code c0050-5a code and it says Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Circuit
Not Plausible? Whats does that mean?
It's a stupid way of saying that the signal coming from that wheel speed sensor doesn't make sense (either because it's shorted high or low or erratic but anything other than normal). It's probably a wiring issue similar to what caused my fault. If the wheel hub has a lot of miles on it, it could need replacement. Otherwise it could be the wire loom connecting it to the computer. If your wheel hub is old and worn, it wouldn't be a bad idea to just change it and see if the problem goes away. If not, at least a) you can focus on the wiring and b) you have a new wheel hub that you probably needed anyway.
Idk if you could help me or not on this but, I have a 2009 impala that I’ve changed the throttle body, throttle body position sensor, pedal position sensor, PCM, yet my car still gets thrown into reduced power mode and service traction control, scanner says I have a voltage correlation with the throttle body and pedal, sometimes I can drive it a month at a time or it does it 5 times in one day. Any recommendations?
It sounds like a sensor problem, especially if the electronic TB isn't in sync with the pedal but to be honest, you seem to have tried all the obvious. I'm not terribly familiar with how the throttle system works but maybe it needs a re-learn. Maybe the sensors are fine but after replacing them they need re-calibration. It's just a thought but I'd have to look into it to know more.
Hey I got a 2011 camaro ss got a few questions for you if you are willing to share some knowledge.
Related to TCS err...
I think it is but not sure wth is going on. I replaced throttle body with new sensor new pedal with new sensor both ac Delco genuine gm products also put new coil packs on and still getting throttle and pedal sensor code have had it cleared did the battery unhook method still getting the code tho. Any ideas on what it is?
@@doaburnout1205 What's the actual code?
Why do my Trac cntl light comes on sometimes when I'm driving down the road and cost for my car to stop picking up speed on a 2000 Grand Marquis LS
When the suspension flexes and moves around as would be the case stopping, starting and turning, it causes the wire bundles coming from the wheel speed sensors to flex as well. If there are any flaws in any of the wires, this can cause an intermittent signal in that wire
I have a 2007 chevy impala it just got it and the the tpms light came on after I had it fixed and the low traction light is on it jerks from front to back is that normal. My husband changed the spark plugs and did work on it. I took it toget a oil change and replaced the battery he check the tyranny I drove it an hour and the lights came on again and is jerking I don't know why. Could you help
I don't think any of the work you had done would cause those symptoms. It sounds like you have the same problem that I discuss in this video. 1 of the wheel speed sensors is either bad or the wiring going back to the computer is bad, or 1 of the tires is flat, or the steering angle sensor is not reporting correct values. In order to know for sure, you need to get a mechanic to scan the car and see if it is throwing any codes. You can also follow the advice in this video to do a visual check of the wiring yourself.
Yea mine has almost caused me to wreck 2 times now, I lose all power steering
Hmm... I've never had that happen before. For me it's just the brakes that act up. To lose power steering might be a more serious electrical/computer problem. Is everything grounded properly in your car? Grounding is a common and serious problem that can cause a computer to freak out and various systems to randomly misbehave.
Tks Soooo much bro
Always welcome
thank u. do u think it would be okay to drive with the removed sensors for around 2 weeks, or do u think it could mess the car up more
It won't do anything bad to the car except that you won't have any Traction or ABS. I would say it's about as safe as driving a car made 20 years ago that didn't have these features.
Can a blown fuse cause these lights to come on?
Yes. Have a look to see if that's the case before doing anything else.
I HAVE A 2015 CHEVY SONIC LTZ THAT I BOUGHT USED AND COUPLE WEEKS LATER IT STARTED ACTING LIKE IT WAS POSSESSED. I DO REGULAR MAINTENANCE BUT I'M AFRAID TO DRIVE IT. I'M GOING TO START REPLACING STUFF.
How do you mean possessed?
i just hit my brakes in the snow and slid a few feet soon as i did that all the lights came on.. any idea on this?
It's normal for the lights to come on when the system is active and working. You should only be concerned if it's coming on when it's obviously not supposed to (abs when you're not braking, TCS when the roads have good traction, etc).
@@ChrisCamaro it came on when i did the little slide. but its still on. ha ha..
Oh then if it's still on it wouldn't hurt to scan the car and see which wheel is doing it or if it's something else entirely.
It reduces power then shuts off the motor on my 07 dts
What was the cost for the mechanic's intervention?
40 Canucks. He just had to replace a short section of faulty wiring.
You ever drove 220 mph? I see that on ur dash😲
Thanks for the follow up
No problem. I figured people would want to know what a mechanic might find when they fix this kind of issue.
Totally CRAP design and engineering.
Braking systems should never be compromised by engine performance.
Criminal design 😡😡🔥
Sorry what do you mean by engine performance?
@@ChrisCamaro I have been having issues with my ATS. Doing research, it brought me to your video. I think what he means is sometimes P0300 code is going off as well. My issues first started with a check engine light and oil leak. My regular mechanic I think new this was a can of worms and told to go to the dealership. He suggested new valve cover, and change the pcv hoses as they were bad. I go to dealer ship, they said only the pcv hoses were my issue. Next day, my car started shaking, stabililok , ABS and TC lights came on. CEL was flashing. they turned off but when speeding up and slowing down, it would feel like it was mis-firing and I confirmed with a scanner. I called dealership and they said it's a new issue and bring the car in and tow as I should not drive it. I said it was fine until after they touched it. But I beat them down on the repair charge as I said the car leaked 2 years ago and the broke the hoses and cheaply fixed it rather than replace when it was under warranty. I found oil in the ignition coil pockets. I cleaned them out a few days ago and it drives a little better, no lights came on now but if I hit the gas, it is rough and stutters a bit. So I am back to changing the gaskets and pcv valves as there could be vacuum issue. I still don't know why they lights all came on, so I have your video to keep an eye one because maybe the dealership damaged the harness when they said they washed the underside of car when looking for oil leak. Car ran much better with CEL light, oil leaking and pcv hoses broken.
All I know is Chevy can build some junk, still trying burn this thing up it won't die... invincible junk interesting
Yeah. Even the new cars have BSR issues but the powertrains are always solid.
Hey people he is lying to you once those 2 fuses are removed your auto has no power to start, you will be unable start or drive your auto.
Uhhh you're going to look pretty stupid when anyone removes those 2 fuses and their "auto" (you mean car?) does start and drive perfectly fine. Don't smear misinformation on my channel please. I hate that.
THANKS FOR THE HELP i like how you explain everything i need to know . Great job with the editing 💯