I am an older grandmother, single and doing car repairs that I can on my own. Sometimes with the help of a few friends or grandsons. I appreciate the comments at the end of your post when you say if money is an issue. Well unfortunately for me yes, it is. So, I will take your advice, save up the money to buy the Blue Driver, and will drive old school just like when I was 17, and proceed from there. Thank you for the tips.
I think I have that right rear sensor issue. The wires at the clip came apart . Taped them together ... Then a friend said he soldered it. Now it's hanging down again. I just checked it today. So I am gonna get under there and check it out again. It was the perfect video for me at this moment. Awesome explaining. Thank you . I will keep you updated. 😂just what I think I needed to see. The actual showing off the wires looked like something I have had a problem with. Sorry for rambling but I have been searching for answers. Ty so much
Great video!! I just changed the rear brake pads on our 2011 prius and all these lights came on. I did discover a caliper guide pin was seized up so changed that and the lights went off. Now they're back on. I need to scan it for speed sensors now.
All these lights came on twice in my 2010 Dodge ram truck and the issue was the wheel bearing both times. But it's also pretty easy to tell when a bearing goes too.
Thanks for this info. video. I got a question. Abs, traction control and tyre pressure lights on my toyota proace (2019) van stay on. These lights appeared first after i had the van parked for a week. The lights went off almost the whole day today then reappeared. Toyota says rear abs sensors are broken, while they do seem intact and if they were broken, the lights wont go off randomly. What do you think the issue might be? Cable issue?
Yes it could be a cable issue. Before you buy sensors make sure to clean the connectors and dry them out really well. Once you do that I would drive it for a month or so. If the sensors really are bad, the code will come back. You can drive safely without ABS sensors, just realize you don’t have anti-lock brakes and adjust your driving accordingly. If you don’t have the money to replace them, keep on driving my friend, it will be fine.
Excellent video!! I have a 2012 Dodge Challenger with 30,000 miles on it. Red brake light, ABS, traction control Those three lights came on. and stay on , taking it to the shop Monday just your thoughts, is it a pretty good chance it is just a wheel sensor. Didn’t know if you had an opinion about these certain cars. Thank you ! You’re very clear and understanding in your videos.
Thanks! I don’t have any specific knowledge on Challengers. Hopefully that is warranty work with that low mileage. I would recommend scanning it with a scan tool before you take it in and write the codes down, knowledge is power. If you don’t have a scan tool an auto parts will do it for free. It could be a sensor and a scan will tell you that. Even if it is warranty work you still want to know the codes, it will help you learn for the future as well. Thanks for watching and for the comment.
@@TheStanleyWay Wow !! did not expect a response this late, you are the man and really appreciate it. The car is a 2012 so it’s 12 years old with low mileage no warranty but still being 12 years old I guess age is the factor . I agree I’m going to get a scan tool actually have a cheap one, but it only diagnose engine stuff such as emissions ect Praying it’s just a wheel sensor and nothing more serious.
@toxictube392n7 no problem. It is probably something simple. Wheel sensors will cause all of those lights to turn on at once. I hope you get it fixed quick and inexpensive.
'14 scion tc w/ manual trans. had this start happening after getting the clutch/flywheel replaced. but it happened so rarely i didn't think it was related. on a couple of occasions the car would not start. I'd turn the ignition and all electrical power would shut off like a dead battery until i disconnected and reconnected the battery then drive fine. however, recently the indicator lights (ABS, brake, traction lights, a dimmed left blinker arrow) as well as the speedom needle drop for half a second would take place when I turned the A/C on. Battery was old so I replaced it last night because that was needed anyway. Yeah I think it's quite likely a mechanic can simply jerk a cable too hard or not plug something back in all the way especially when they're doing a big job like replacing a transmission.
You are correct. Some of the simplest things can make it seem like there is a huge problem with your car. I hope you get yours figured out soon. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Very informative. I’m not a mechanic but I agree 100%. But with my Auto 4WD Pathfinder, I suspect my lights are on because my front tires wore much faster than the back. Could that be the case. And could this damage the other parts in the 4x4 system? I feel like since the idiot lights are on, then it’s only operating in 2WD (Front) and therefore no damage is being done. Does anybody have an opinion on that?
You are correct in your thinking. If you have an all wheel drive car, all four tires should be changed at the same time to ensure proper wear on drivetrain components. Then rotated on a consistent bases to keep the circumference the same on all four tires. It will also trip codes as you have seen.
Toyota Camry with abs light, traction light, brake light coming on, then check engine light came . One place replaced the brake switch light 3 times with last time being Toyota part yet still lights kicked back on. Toyota dealer said replaced 2 burned out tail lights and I was astounded. Said seen it before and so far no lights back on on 3rd day. Please Lord let it stay fixed 🙏
My 2011 Ford Fusion Hybrid with 70k miles was fine---then something happened after 5 short driving trips when ABS, Brake, ck engine lights & chime came on. I quickly pulled over. My scan tool reports 4 ABS codes: C0022, U3000, C0001, C1012. What do you suggest I do?
@@mkd9251 my first question is does the car feel different in any way all of the sudden? Is it hard to brake or steer? Does anything, besides the lights, seem out of the ordinary? If not, how old is your battery? Have your battery checked even if it is new. Bad car batteries can cause many weird symptoms in modern computer operated cars. If your battery is 3 years old or older you may want to replace that first. Have your battery and alternator checked at the same time. A good auto parts store will do this for free. If the battery or alternator aren’t the problem then it could be one bad sensor kicking all of the lights on and sending multiple failure codes. This can be very difficult to troubleshoot in person and would be impossible over comments. If you have the money and know a good mechanic then have it checked out. If you are short in funds then use common sense and make your own decision on whether the car is safe to drive or not. When you have an ABS light on, it just means the computer has detected an ABS issue and has turned the antilock capabilities of the car off. So now you have a car without ABS, meaning if you jam the brakes you will lock up your tires and loose steering control as the car skids. If the car brakes and steers ok and you feel safe driving without ABS then go for it. Make sure to have your brake system inspected to ensure that your brake fluid is topped off and there are no major problems. If the inspection is good and you don’t want to fix it then drive it until you are able to have it fixed.
Have this problem on my 16 chevy colorado. I would still continue to drive on it, but when I'm at lower speeds, when I brake, my abs kicks in while I'm braking, it's real weird. continued to drive and brake at low speeds to test it out in my neighborhood, then it randomly abs stopped kickin in at the low speeds. Don't want it to happen at high speeds, so going to check sensors before driving again.
I have been having these issues in my 2010 Ford Edge and when these lights come on my car shuts off. I cannot find out if these are related. TCL turns on, red brake light, and ABS light. Brake pads and rotor were recently changed, found that front right caliper was sticking also. Would there be any reason this would cause a vehicle to stall at all? Cant seem to find any info on that, seems to be faulty brake system but cant figure out why it is stalling only when those lights come on.
Wow that is weird. I don’t have any experience with an issue like that. I have had good luck using AllData as a program to troubleshoot many different cars. You can buy a one month subscription for the AllData DIY for your specific car for around $20 to $30. With that subscription you can look up every Technical Service bulletin to see is this is a common phenomenon. You wouldn’t believe how many cars I have repaired using the TSB’s. You might want to start there.
So I have a check engine light, traction control, and abs light on. A few months ago they would come on and then go off. Already replaced abs sensor. But when these 3 lights are on my Nissan Titan will not go into 4 wheel. When they off it would go right in. Now all 3 lights seem to be er go off. Any ideas???
No, with something that crazy I would have to look at it. See if you can get it scanned for any codes and go from there. Even if you don’t have any dash lights illuminated, it will still show certain codes with a good scan tool.
@@riggoo14 it could be a number of things. Here are some things to check: Low brake fluid: Check the fluid level in the reservoir and top it up if it's low. Malfunctioning ABS module: The ABS module may be faulty. The wheel speed sensors may be broken. The emergency brake may be left on or not properly adjusted. Sensor sensitivity: The ABS sensor may be too sensitive and activate for no reason. Blown fuse: If both the ABS light and the engine warning light are on, check the fuse. System turned off: The ABS system may be turned off. If all these are good then take it to a reputable shop. If you don’t have money for a shop, your brake fluid level is good, and it stops fine then drive it. The abs light on just means your computer turned the abs off which means your tires can lock up under heavy braking so drive carefully.
I have a Lexus 2003 GX470 and all 4 lights come on and then they disappear many times after turning the car on and off sometimes the ABS alarm turns off and it stays on for almost 15 minutes. Any idea what it could be?
@@Ed_E-HTX I don’t know of a way to turn it off but you could try to find the source under the dash. You should be able to unplug the box that is making the noise and it will stop.
Thx for the video I had my rotors and brakes done today on my 08 Jeep grand cherokee and the ABS,TRACTION CONTROL,ESP/BAS are still on.I will def follow your advice and f/u with u.I bet it's a wheel sensor because i've had 1 replaced before.
@@TheStanleyWay this is what I’m getting. It’s intermittent. 66-13 Master Cylinder Pressure Sensor Failure (Internal Circuit Failure) 66-11 Master Cylinder Pressure Sensor Failure (Output circuit is open or short to ground) 61-11 Power Source Failure for ECU (Low Voltage) 1 Electronic Power Steering Code 85-01 VSA Signal Failure Oct 30,
More than likely they did something wrong. It could be something as simple as a disconnected speed sensor or they could have broken something. Make sure they fix it, don’t let them pressure you into paying if you didn’t have those lights before you took it in. I hope you get it fixed for free real soon.
This is a big headache on my 2014 mazda 5 my mechanic scan it and came up with power failure internal malfunction wtf is that? And told me only the fricken dealer can clear it!!!!
I don’t know what that is. Anything weird like that the first thing I look at is battery and alternator issues. Have the battery checked, if it is old and starting to get weak, it may negatively affect the electrical system. If the battery is ok also have the alternator checked. I have repaired many electrical issues, strange codes, etc. with a new battery. If those check out then it may be worth it to have it scanned by a dealer or a different mechanic. If they give you an ungodly high estimate to fix it and the car drives okay then it may be fine to drive it like that. Most dash lights are not much of a concern.
@@TheStanleyWay too many electronic parts and components involved to accurately diagnose that sh1t, from sensors, to circuit cables, fuses, ABS module's electric motor, circuits of ABS modules, and ECU. Pretty much all electronics.
Sometimes it can be an easy fix however, to secure vehicle safety, the additional can lead to another connection that may be undisclosed if code reader didn't catch another symptom yet .😢
@@iamsorryforbeingrudebefore1626That is absolutely true when other issue arises within diagnosis needing to be checked including relays, wirings and other component wirings or connectors to the same diagnosis area. Intermittently can be easier to fix than light not turning off. The brake area is also involved during diagnostics .
I am an older grandmother, single and doing car repairs that I can on my own. Sometimes with the help of a few friends or grandsons. I appreciate the comments at the end of your post when you say if money is an issue. Well unfortunately for me yes, it is. So, I will take your advice, save up the money to buy the Blue Driver, and will drive old school just like when I was 17, and proceed from there. Thank you for the tips.
Same exact . Wasn't that video great 👍
I think I have that right rear sensor issue. The wires at the clip came apart . Taped them together ... Then a friend said he soldered it. Now it's hanging down again. I just checked it today. So I am gonna get under there and check it out again. It was the perfect video for me at this moment. Awesome explaining. Thank you . I will keep you updated. 😂just what I think I needed to see. The actual showing off the wires looked like something I have had a problem with. Sorry for rambling but I have been searching for answers. Ty so much
Excellent Video. Good Advise given.
Thanks
Great video!! I just changed the rear brake pads on our 2011 prius and all these lights came on. I did discover a caliper guide pin was seized up so changed that and the lights went off. Now they're back on. I need to scan it for speed sensors now.
Thanks, I hope it will be an easy fix for you.
Thanks for the sound advice.
Thank you for being so honest!
Thank you for the video! I had this exact same thing happen to me the other day.
You are welcome. Thanks for watching.
Thank you Stanley. I have same issue and light remain on. Keep on driving. My old car 40 years ago had no computer.
@@robennatyschlundtbodien3520 you are welcome. Thank you for watching and for the comment.
All these lights came on twice in my 2010 Dodge ram truck and the issue was the wheel bearing both times. But it's also pretty easy to tell when a bearing goes too.
I’m going through this exact thing right now. I think it’s a wheel bearing and it needs brakes and rotors
Thanks for this info. video. I got a question. Abs, traction control and tyre pressure lights on my toyota proace (2019) van stay on. These lights appeared first after i had the van parked for a week. The lights went off almost the whole day today then reappeared. Toyota says rear abs sensors are broken, while they do seem intact and if they were broken, the lights wont go off randomly.
What do you think the issue might be? Cable issue?
Yes it could be a cable issue. Before you buy sensors make sure to clean the connectors and dry them out really well. Once you do that I would drive it for a month or so. If the sensors really are bad, the code will come back.
You can drive safely without ABS sensors, just realize you don’t have anti-lock brakes and adjust your driving accordingly. If you don’t have the money to replace them, keep on driving my friend, it will be fine.
Excellent video!! I have a 2012 Dodge Challenger with 30,000 miles on it. Red brake light, ABS, traction control Those three lights came on. and stay on , taking it to the shop Monday just your thoughts, is it a pretty good chance it is just a wheel sensor. Didn’t know if you had an opinion about these certain cars. Thank you ! You’re very clear and understanding in your videos.
Thanks! I don’t have any specific knowledge on Challengers. Hopefully that is warranty work with that low mileage. I would recommend scanning it with a scan tool before you take it in and write the codes down, knowledge is power. If you don’t have a scan tool an auto parts will do it for free. It could be a sensor and a scan will tell you that. Even if it is warranty work you still want to know the codes, it will help you learn for the future as well. Thanks for watching and for the comment.
@@TheStanleyWay
Wow !! did not expect a response this late, you are the man and really appreciate it. The car is a 2012 so it’s 12 years old with low mileage no warranty but still being 12 years old I guess age is the factor . I agree I’m going to get a scan tool actually have a cheap one, but it only diagnose engine stuff such as emissions ect Praying it’s just a wheel sensor and nothing more serious.
@toxictube392n7 no problem. It is probably something simple. Wheel sensors will cause all of those lights to turn on at once. I hope you get it fixed quick and inexpensive.
'14 scion tc w/ manual trans. had this start happening after getting the clutch/flywheel replaced. but it happened so rarely i didn't think it was related. on a couple of occasions the car would not start. I'd turn the ignition and all electrical power would shut off like a dead battery until i disconnected and reconnected the battery then drive fine. however, recently the indicator lights (ABS, brake, traction lights, a dimmed left blinker arrow) as well as the speedom needle drop for half a second would take place when I turned the A/C on. Battery was old so I replaced it last night because that was needed anyway.
Yeah I think it's quite likely a mechanic can simply jerk a cable too hard or not plug something back in all the way especially when they're doing a big job like replacing a transmission.
You are correct. Some of the simplest things can make it seem like there is a huge problem with your car. I hope you get yours figured out soon. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@TheStanleyWay you are a great responder to comments. will do, thanks!
@wes1934 thank you.
@wes1934 also my first name is Wes 😂.
Very informative. I’m not a mechanic but I agree 100%. But with my Auto 4WD Pathfinder, I suspect my lights are on because my front tires wore much faster than the back. Could that be the case. And could this damage the other parts in the 4x4 system? I feel like since the idiot lights are on, then it’s only operating in 2WD (Front) and therefore no damage is being done. Does anybody have an opinion on that?
You are correct in your thinking. If you have an all wheel drive car, all four tires should be changed at the same time to ensure proper wear on drivetrain components. Then rotated on a consistent bases to keep the circumference the same on all four tires. It will also trip codes as you have seen.
I replaced the all 4 WSS and the ABS, TCS, and Brake lights are still on. Does the Blue Driver erase existing DTCs?
Yes it does erase codes.
Toyota Camry with abs light, traction light, brake light coming on, then check engine light came . One place replaced the brake switch light 3 times with last time being Toyota part yet still lights kicked back on. Toyota dealer said replaced 2 burned out tail lights and I was astounded. Said seen it before and so far no lights back on on 3rd day. Please Lord let it stay fixed 🙏
I hope it is fixed, thank you for the information.
Update? Currently going thru the stop light phase.. My brake lights seem fine thou which bulbs were burnt out for you?
My 2011 Ford Fusion Hybrid with 70k miles was fine---then something happened after 5 short driving trips when ABS, Brake, ck engine lights & chime came on. I quickly pulled over. My scan tool reports 4 ABS codes: C0022, U3000, C0001, C1012. What do you suggest I do?
@@mkd9251 my first question is does the car feel different in any way all of the sudden? Is it hard to brake or steer? Does anything, besides the lights, seem out of the ordinary? If not, how old is your battery? Have your battery checked even if it is new. Bad car batteries can cause many weird symptoms in modern computer operated cars. If your battery is 3 years old or older you may want to replace that first. Have your battery and alternator checked at the same time. A good auto parts store will do this for free.
If the battery or alternator aren’t the problem then it could be one bad sensor kicking all of the lights on and sending multiple failure codes. This can be very difficult to troubleshoot in person and would be impossible over comments. If you have the money and know a good mechanic then have it checked out.
If you are short in funds then use common sense and make your own decision on whether the car is safe to drive or not. When you have an ABS light on, it just means the computer has detected an ABS issue and has turned the antilock capabilities of the car off. So now you have a car without ABS, meaning if you jam the brakes you will lock up your tires and loose steering control as the car skids.
If the car brakes and steers ok and you feel safe driving without ABS then go for it. Make sure to have your brake system inspected to ensure that your brake fluid is topped off and there are no major problems. If the inspection is good and you don’t want to fix it then drive it until you are able to have it fixed.
You're are the best 😊
@@JorgeHurtado-k7v thanks!
Have this problem on my 16 chevy colorado. I would still continue to drive on it, but when I'm at lower speeds, when I brake, my abs kicks in while I'm braking, it's real weird. continued to drive and brake at low speeds to test it out in my neighborhood, then it randomly abs stopped kickin in at the low speeds. Don't want it to happen at high speeds, so going to check sensors before driving again.
You might want to try this. ua-cam.com/video/4fyjZB0gWIw/v-deo.htmlsi=_qKugDXUELtjvAT6
I hope you get it figured out soon.
Thanks for the video
You are welcome!
I have All those lights on and hard to steer. I put brake fluid and steering nothing worked . Brakes feel fine
A good starting point would be to have the car scanned to see what trouble code you get.
did you ever figure out the issue?
im trying to figure out because im having somewhat the same issue
@@naivefn6102 mine was a speed sensor but not sure if @rosaleereyes10 figured it out.
Good to know, thanks for commenting, it helps a lot.
I have been having these issues in my 2010 Ford Edge and when these lights come on my car shuts off. I cannot find out if these are related. TCL turns on, red brake light, and ABS light. Brake pads and rotor were recently changed, found that front right caliper was sticking also. Would there be any reason this would cause a vehicle to stall at all? Cant seem to find any info on that, seems to be faulty brake system but cant figure out why it is stalling only when those lights come on.
Wow that is weird. I don’t have any experience with an issue like that. I have had good luck using AllData as a program to troubleshoot many different cars. You can buy a one month subscription for the AllData DIY for your specific car for around $20 to $30. With that subscription you can look up every Technical Service bulletin to see is this is a common phenomenon. You wouldn’t believe how many cars I have repaired using the TSB’s. You might want to start there.
@@TheStanleyWay appreciate the help!
Mine stalls out too. I drive on the dirt roads. Especially when I am idling... 2007 Chevy uplander
So I have a check engine light, traction control, and abs light on. A few months ago they would come on and then go off. Already replaced abs sensor. But when these 3 lights are on my Nissan Titan will not go into 4 wheel. When they off it would go right in. Now all 3 lights seem to be er go off. Any ideas???
No, with something that crazy I would have to look at it. See if you can get it scanned for any codes and go from there. Even if you don’t have any dash lights illuminated, it will still show certain codes with a good scan tool.
Cool tool!!
I have a 2010 venza I get all those lights I replaced 2 front abs sensors and brake light switch has brake need brakes all around what could it be
@@riggoo14 it could be a number of things. Here are some things to check:
Low brake fluid: Check the fluid level in the reservoir and top it up if it's low.
Malfunctioning ABS module: The ABS module may be faulty.
The wheel speed sensors may be broken.
The emergency brake may be left on or not properly adjusted.
Sensor sensitivity: The ABS sensor may be too sensitive and activate for no reason.
Blown fuse: If both the ABS light and the engine warning light are on, check the fuse.
System turned off: The ABS system may be turned off.
If all these are good then take it to a reputable shop. If you don’t have money for a shop, your brake fluid level is good, and it stops fine then drive it. The abs light on just means your computer turned the abs off which means your tires can lock up under heavy braking so drive carefully.
You're Good.
Thanks
what if all these lights come on and no abs codes are coming up, and when i read the live data, all the numbers are fine?
Then you need a better computer. More than likely the code is beyond what your computer can read.
I have a Lexus 2003 GX470 and all 4 lights come on and then they disappear many times after turning the car on and off sometimes the ABS alarm turns off and it stays on for almost 15 minutes. Any idea what it could be?
Could be a speed sensor like I talk about in the video. Once the computer looses speed data from one wheel, it will turn all of those systems off.
@@TheStanleyWay sometimes the ABS alarm comes on and its annoying. Is their anyway to permanently turn that alarm off
@@Ed_E-HTX I don’t know of a way to turn it off but you could try to find the source under the dash. You should be able to unplug the box that is making the noise and it will stop.
Thx for the video I had my rotors and brakes done today on my 08 Jeep grand cherokee and the ABS,TRACTION CONTROL,ESP/BAS are still on.I will def follow your advice and f/u with u.I bet it's a wheel sensor because i've had 1 replaced before.
You are welcome, thanks for viewing and for the comment.
How did you know to check that wheel.
I had a C003A code when using an OBDII scan tool. That is a right rear wheel speed sensor code.
@@TheStanleyWay thanks. Hoping it’s not the module. It all started when my daughter ran over a curb.
@@tk423b very rare to be the module. I’m sure it will be the sensor on the wheel that hit the curb.
@@TheStanleyWay I’m hoping so, just ordered that scanner. I’ll let you know. Thanks.
@@TheStanleyWay this is what I’m getting. It’s intermittent.
66-13 Master Cylinder Pressure Sensor Failure (Internal Circuit Failure)
66-11 Master Cylinder Pressure Sensor Failure (Output circuit is open or short to
ground)
61-11 Power Source Failure for ECU (Low Voltage)
1 Electronic Power Steering Code
85-01 VSA Signal Failure
Oct 30,
it's 9/24/24 and on walmart the Blue Driver is $99.00. i just ordered one.
@@Sam-f1k8e awesome!
Why are these on for me after getting new tires and an alignment? Safe to drive for a few days until I take it back? Ugh.
More than likely they did something wrong. It could be something as simple as a disconnected speed sensor or they could have broken something. Make sure they fix it, don’t let them pressure you into paying if you didn’t have those lights before you took it in.
I hope you get it fixed for free real soon.
@@TheStanleyWay Thank you for the response!
I literally have all them lights on for some reason
Could be just a speed sensor. If your brake fluid level is good and your brakes work fine it doesn’t have to get fixed right away.
@@TheStanleyWay ok thank you
This is a big headache on my 2014 mazda 5 my mechanic scan it and came up with power failure internal malfunction wtf is that? And told me only the fricken dealer can clear it!!!!
I don’t know what that is. Anything weird like that the first thing I look at is battery and alternator issues. Have the battery checked, if it is old and starting to get weak, it may negatively affect the electrical system. If the battery is ok also have the alternator checked.
I have repaired many electrical issues, strange codes, etc. with a new battery. If those check out then it may be worth it to have it scanned by a dealer or a different mechanic. If they give you an ungodly high estimate to fix it and the car drives okay then it may be fine to drive it like that. Most dash lights are not much of a concern.
I think abs is stupid design just to cause more repair. I'm driving with abs light on for past 8 years
@@ChiNguyen-wf1qt me too!
Lol this is not *easy*
Misleading title, there is nothing easy about ABS
😂
@@TheStanleyWay too many electronic parts and components involved to accurately diagnose that sh1t, from sensors, to circuit cables, fuses, ABS module's electric motor, circuits of ABS modules, and ECU. Pretty much all electronics.
@@iamsorryforbeingrudebefore1626 speed sensor fixed this one, simple. That is the meaning of the title.
Sometimes it can be an easy fix however, to secure vehicle safety, the additional can lead to another connection that may be undisclosed if code reader didn't catch another symptom yet .😢
@@iamsorryforbeingrudebefore1626That is absolutely true when other issue arises within diagnosis needing to be checked including relays, wirings and other component wirings or connectors to the same diagnosis area. Intermittently can be easier to fix than light not turning off. The brake area is also involved during diagnostics .
Good God long winded comments makes me go to the next video dude. Learn to get to the point
There's a fast forward control for a reason, bro. Grow up
You talk too damn much get to the point
😂