Do not worry about the turn position of the encoder. On startup, the wheel drives to both ends of the rack by running the motors. When the encoder stops emitting steps, the end of travel is registered. By counting the steps between two extremes, the centre of wheel rotation is found. The rack is at the bottom of the chassis and is driven by a small shaft gear at the rear end. So the only thing you need to align is the wheel such that it's in the centre when the rack is in the centre, and it's on the one and a half turn positions left and right when the rack is touching its stops.
Wow that looks like a project and a half. I think I'm good using it until it breaks, just unfortunate that they discontinued it. Thanks for making this video!
Not completely sure, but the Momo series uses a small shiny part on the axis to make the controller know where the middle position of the wheel is upon startup. I think you'd need quite a bit of force to have that middle part slip gears, but I feel this controller might use the reading of the motors to know where the endstops are, or it might use the encoder for it to know it's max-rotation. Given the fact that it uses two motors (making it possible to use less gears like the Momo does) it's probably easier to have electronics sense the current increase in the motors hitting the endstops, but it could also just measure rotation. I honestly was suprised to learn the electronics in the Momo was reasonably simple.
It doesn't have sensing electronics for the current. It just turns on the motors and waits for the encoder to stop emitting steps, because the rack has hit its stop. The motors are also just on the same H-bridge. Not exactly overburdened with complexity, it's like a really really nicely made toy, which is entirely appropriate.
my wheel is doing that annoying squeaky noise when it turns and i really tried to grease but don't know how. I opened it, but i just couldn't see where to spray the WD. Would anyone mind helping me with that?
Just note, if you plug in your wheel and it tries to calibrate over and over and the power light on the H shifter flashed. It means that gear and gear rail aren't lined up correctly.
BRO OMG IK ITS BEEN THREE YEARS BUT NOW I KNOW WHY MY WHEEL WAS DOING THAT CUZ I JUST BOUGHT THE WHEEL OFF SOMEONE AND YEA I WAS TRYING TO FIX IT AND I SEARCHED ONLINE AND THERE WAS NO SOLUTIONS
@@Noel-wn8dvUnfortunately it was so long ago I cant remember you just have to be careful that its on the track when you put it back together and it should work.
Hey there i switch pines of wheel board G29 by mistake and chip got burned, it's still work but it's need 6sec so i can press again chip burn name is MBLHK how can i fix it and if there's a alternative chip
nethermind i got it out by taking a ring of to get the bearing off :) apparently there a 25$ 6910rs bearing... more expensive than i thought...and now i know why my wheel makes clicking sound... the bearing moved like 2 mm
I have no clue too, when my wheel died I opened it up, put it back together, then noticed the spring on my desk. If I had to guess, the two ends touch the base and the top of the bend touches the carousel. That way the spring is less likely to slide and roll about in the base, or somehow work loose (and also there is only one point of contact on the carousel, reducing sliding friction). You can see the trench it sits in at 11:30, although it looks like he has no spring, so I dont know how important it actually is.
I have a g29. One day I plugged it on to the Ps4 and I had my hand on it so it got stuck during the process of the initial rotation (calibration). Now the wheel doesn't work properly. I want to open it and see where the problem is but i don´t know what parts should I check specifically. Can anyone give me any advice? I would very much appreciate it, please. Thank you.
Hello, I should imagine the gear and the gear rail with those tiny teeth have slipped, causing it to not work properly. Try to re-align them if possible like he is doing at 12:52. Hope this helps! :-)
Hello, I was wondering something. This steering wheel uses electric motors with brushes, when these will consume as in all brush motors how do you do? 🙄
I know the piece your talking about. I’m guessing it goes in front of the piece that moves across side to side with the cog from the wheel making contact with the top of that piece think it goes in front with the two down and the middle hump is like a camel
Hi ziaa85. I’m pretty sure the metal band goes in the groove beneath where the rack and pinion goes, this will ensure there is enough tension to keep the gear train in place.
I fucked up and nicked some cables on the connector at 6:11 Can anyone tell me what it is called so I can buy a replacement? I'm trying to re-use this one but I'm not sure if I can get the cable stumps out. Thanks in advance! :)
@@gabrielnogarollidossantos1967 There are hundreds of types of header connectors....you need to know the pitch (distance between pins) and at times also the size of the pins in order to know what the correct type is.
Look for connectors that have a fast-on crimp-style of pin-header connector (try Dupont style as well, they can look similar). If there is still some wire left between the connector and the part where you knicked it you might be able to resolder that, there is no high current going through it. Not completely sure about the pin-pitch, I'll have to warn you that sometimes manufacturers can go for something custom-made and a consumer-available option for a connector might not fit well or at all because of a deviation of the norms for certain connectors. It could also be a SIL-style connector, but those are usually a little bit chunkier and do not use crimped pin-connectors but are soldered on. If it would not work out finding a replacement, you could try soldering a small extension-lead kind of thing directly to the pins on the motherboard (at the other side where the connector will be, given that the connector is a through-hole (which means, through the printed circuit board) connection and not one that connects to an electrical layer somewhere in the middle of the board, which I doubt it will be due to stability, but hey, manufacturers sometimes do weird things in order to make sure their devices break easily, but not to easily). The only thing with that last solution is having to be absolutely sure you get the pinout right.
Measure pin pitch, look at JST connectors - JST XH (2.5mm) and PH (2.0mm) are most likely candidates. I don't remember exactly which one is in there. The cheapest tool i found to crimp them well is iwiss IWS-2820M (Micro) that i got from their direct seller for $12 and you may also get pre-crimped wires in different pin counts and lengths.
any solution to the stupid FFB deadzone center ? ( no FFB for 5 to 10 degree in the center ) people say its normal for all dual motor , FALSE. ive tried cheap aliexpress wheel with dual motor and they're perfectly fine.
No entiendo para sacar el sensor tienes que desmontar todo el volante. No es mas fácil desmontar el sensor solo vamos digo yo y no arriesgas a romper nada mas te ahorras el trabajo de desmontar todo.
How are you sure it's the microchip? If they did it the same way as in the Logitech Momo series, there isn't a whole lot of thing to break in the chip that listens to button pins, because the power dissipation in it is absolutely minimal. In the Logitech Momo they use an 8 button pin arrangement using a floating earth that get's pulled up for one button and for the other button on the same pin pulled down (from about 2.1 V to 3.3 for one of the buttons and about 0.4 for the other button on the same pin). They do this with a transistor or opamp of some sort (it's a little bit unclear, the typenumber seems to suggest it's a custom made part, I was unable to find a clear datasheet without being in doubt if I was looking at the actual part and not a clone or one that is similar in function). Did you try reseating the connectors at both ends? The thing is that logic voltages can be low and as a result suffer problems quicker when a connector might be a little dirty due to just being used for a long time in an environment prone to corossion or dirt setting off on the contacts, due to, for instance, high humidity.
I hate the fact that the second bearing is held by the steel plate and first one is just held by weak plastic. most g27's die because of the plastic housing gets cracked. If they just extended the piece of metal g27 would last forever.
It should work? I have DFGT that works in W11. Just need to ask around for the right download, it hasn't been updated in centuries and is hidden. Then also need to Security settings of Windows, go into Device Security, and disable Core Isolation - Memory Integrity. With setting done like that, any drivers that worked on Windows 7 should all still just work! That's the one relevant thing that changed between 10 and 11 that this was enabled by default.
I was dissembling my g29 and i found a loose ring inside. Its a half ring and i dont know where it goes, also after replacing the usb cable the led and the buttons dont work.
becasue the g29 is THE SAME THING just with a different wheel Logitech could release just a wheel....take out the screws, unplug 2 wires......plug in g29 wires, put screws back in you now have a g29
i noticed the same, as i have an issue with mine being totally off centre, so im going to attempt to pull mine apart tonight to see if i can get it to align
I have this and took it apart and a u shape metal fell out but don’t know where it goes. I watched your whole video and don’t see that piece no where. I have the g27 Logitech how can I send you a picture of what I’m talking about. Please I need to fix this by Tomorrow. Thanks.
I know this is 6 years old but those encoders are incremental not absolute. it doesn't matter if they get moved. It's an optical encoder wheel like you'd find in arcade trackballs, spinners and old PC mice that had a ball in them.
Do not worry about the turn position of the encoder. On startup, the wheel drives to both ends of the rack by running the motors. When the encoder stops emitting steps, the end of travel is registered. By counting the steps between two extremes, the centre of wheel rotation is found. The rack is at the bottom of the chassis and is driven by a small shaft gear at the rear end. So the only thing you need to align is the wheel such that it's in the centre when the rack is in the centre, and it's on the one and a half turn positions left and right when the rack is touching its stops.
Wow that looks like a project and a half. I think I'm good using it until it breaks, just unfortunate that they discontinued it. Thanks for making this video!
Very interesting. Always wondered what my old G27 looked like inside...👍
Not completely sure, but the Momo series uses a small shiny part on the axis to make the controller know where the middle position of the wheel is upon startup. I think you'd need quite a bit of force to have that middle part slip gears, but I feel this controller might use the reading of the motors to know where the endstops are, or it might use the encoder for it to know it's max-rotation.
Given the fact that it uses two motors (making it possible to use less gears like the Momo does) it's probably easier to have electronics sense the current increase in the motors hitting the endstops, but it could also just measure rotation.
I honestly was suprised to learn the electronics in the Momo was reasonably simple.
It doesn't have sensing electronics for the current. It just turns on the motors and waits for the encoder to stop emitting steps, because the rack has hit its stop. The motors are also just on the same H-bridge. Not exactly overburdened with complexity, it's like a really really nicely made toy, which is entirely appropriate.
Super. Thank You very much for this video :) .
Interesting video, I noticed mine was really hot after a 25 hour binge was curious how it all worked in there
from this point is it possible to turn off force feedback with removing this "stabilisation plate"?
while you guys were bwatching him do his stuff, i was watching his phones battery % go up
my wheel is doing that annoying squeaky noise when it turns and i really tried to grease but don't know how. I opened it, but i just couldn't see where to spray the WD. Would anyone mind helping me with that?
Just note, if you plug in your wheel and it tries to calibrate over and over and the power light on the H shifter flashed. It means that gear and gear rail aren't lined up correctly.
BRO OMG IK ITS BEEN THREE YEARS BUT NOW I KNOW WHY MY WHEEL WAS DOING THAT CUZ I JUST BOUGHT THE WHEEL OFF SOMEONE AND YEA I WAS TRYING TO FIX IT AND I SEARCHED ONLINE AND THERE WAS NO SOLUTIONS
Honestly bro thank you so much
@@Noel-wn8dv i don't remember writing this but you're very welcome lol.
@@610demonkey Just a question when i try to fix it in a few days, how do line it up properly or like how do you know that you have done it correctly?
@@Noel-wn8dvUnfortunately it was so long ago I cant remember you just have to be careful that its on the track when you put it back together and it should work.
I have a wheel and I lost the Bluetooth USB and I'm trying to switch the Bluetooth connector inside the wheel but i don't know which connector it is
one of the support feet broke on mine. I was just tightening it.
There so flimsy and break very easily
Hey there i switch pines of wheel board G29 by mistake and chip got burned, it's still work but it's need 6sec so i can press again chip burn name is MBLHK how can i fix it and if there's a alternative chip
Like the rcr stickers
10:04 why stop disassembly there? :( I need to know how to get the big middle gear out and you stopped exactly where i dont know any further :(
nethermind i got it out by taking a ring of to get the bearing off :) apparently there a 25$ 6910rs bearing... more expensive than i thought...and now i know why my wheel makes clicking sound... the bearing moved like 2 mm
Leo Beelen a bit late but i have has this wheel for about 3-4 years and if I replaced the bearing would the ratteling stop?
"Tear Down"... but not...
What about the half moon spring what direction does it face on the carasel or whatever you called it
I have no clue too, when my wheel died I opened it up, put it back together, then noticed the spring on my desk. If I had to guess, the two ends touch the base and the top of the bend touches the carousel. That way the spring is less likely to slide and roll about in the base, or somehow work loose (and also there is only one point of contact on the carousel, reducing sliding friction).
You can see the trench it sits in at 11:30, although it looks like he has no spring, so I dont know how important it actually is.
hello jason. i have the same steering wheel but i have one problem that one mount is broke. how can i rejoin the that mount??
JB Weld
Any thoughts on tracing the metal flange, replicating and use tube section to offsetbetween the two accordingly?
Anybody know where the fuse is ?
I have a g29. One day I plugged it on to the Ps4 and I had my hand on it so it got stuck during the process of the initial rotation (calibration). Now the wheel doesn't work properly. I want to open it and see where the problem is but i don´t know what parts should I check specifically. Can anyone give me any advice? I would very much appreciate it, please. Thank you.
Hello,
I should imagine the gear and the gear rail with those tiny teeth have slipped, causing it to not work properly. Try to re-align them if possible like he is doing at 12:52.
Hope this helps! :-)
And just like that people started opening their logitech g 27
Hello, I was wondering something. This steering wheel uses electric motors with brushes, when these will consume as in all brush motors how do you do? 🙄
They don't have carbon brushes, it's mostly copper or brass. They don't consume
@@parasyte25[EXTREMELY LOUD INCORRECT BUZZER]
one thing i find annoying about my G27 is the plastic on plastic smack on boot self centering
Anyone who can tell me what the type of cable that connects the wheel buttons to the wheel PCB is?
I think that is like a usb cable. Only cause the conexions and the cable colors, but im not sure
I noticed a metal band that seemed like a spring that I have no idea where it goes. Any advice?
I know the piece your talking about. I’m guessing it goes in front of the piece that moves across side to side with the cog from the wheel making contact with the top of that piece think it goes in front with the two down and the middle hump is like a camel
Hi ziaa85. I’m pretty sure the metal band goes in the groove beneath where the rack and pinion goes, this will ensure there is enough tension to keep the gear train in place.
I fucked up and nicked some cables on the connector at 6:11
Can anyone tell me what it is called so I can buy a replacement? I'm trying to re-use this one but I'm not sure if I can get the cable stumps out.
Thanks in advance! :)
Header Connector
@@gabrielnogarollidossantos1967 There are hundreds of types of header connectors....you need to know the pitch (distance between pins) and at times also the size of the pins in order to know what the correct type is.
Look for connectors that have a fast-on crimp-style of pin-header connector (try Dupont style as well, they can look similar). If there is still some wire left between the connector and the part where you knicked it you might be able to resolder that, there is no high current going through it.
Not completely sure about the pin-pitch, I'll have to warn you that sometimes manufacturers can go for something custom-made and a consumer-available option for a connector might not fit well or at all because of a deviation of the norms for certain connectors.
It could also be a SIL-style connector, but those are usually a little bit chunkier and do not use crimped pin-connectors but are soldered on.
If it would not work out finding a replacement, you could try soldering a small extension-lead kind of thing directly to the pins on the motherboard (at the other side where the connector will be, given that the connector is a through-hole (which means, through the printed circuit board) connection and not one that connects to an electrical layer somewhere in the middle of the board, which I doubt it will be due to stability, but hey, manufacturers sometimes do weird things in order to make sure their devices break easily, but not to easily).
The only thing with that last solution is having to be absolutely sure you get the pinout right.
Measure pin pitch, look at JST connectors - JST XH (2.5mm) and PH (2.0mm) are most likely candidates. I don't remember exactly which one is in there. The cheapest tool i found to crimp them well is iwiss IWS-2820M (Micro) that i got from their direct seller for $12 and you may also get pre-crimped wires in different pin counts and lengths.
any solution to the stupid FFB deadzone center ? ( no FFB for 5 to 10 degree in the center ) people say its normal for all dual motor , FALSE. ive tried cheap aliexpress wheel with dual motor and they're perfectly fine.
thats what i wanna know
so i looked up this video to pull apart my g27 cause the wheel was wobbling and umm yeah turned out the wheel housing had been shattered... oof
@L. Seriphus i thought it was odd too, but its an amazing wheel so i bought a second one
No entiendo para sacar el sensor tienes que desmontar todo el volante. No es mas fácil desmontar el sensor solo vamos digo yo y no arriesgas a romper nada mas te ahorras el trabajo de desmontar todo.
Are you still on utube
Holy shit, turn on the Captions and start the video
my buttons microchip broke now buttons don t work where can i get new one
How are you sure it's the microchip? If they did it the same way as in the Logitech Momo series, there isn't a whole lot of thing to break in the chip that listens to button pins, because the power dissipation in it is absolutely minimal.
In the Logitech Momo they use an 8 button pin arrangement using a floating earth that get's pulled up for one button and for the other button on the same pin pulled down (from about 2.1 V to 3.3 for one of the buttons and about 0.4 for the other button on the same pin).
They do this with a transistor or opamp of some sort (it's a little bit unclear, the typenumber seems to suggest it's a custom made part, I was unable to find a clear datasheet without being in doubt if I was looking at the actual part and not a clone or one that is similar in function).
Did you try reseating the connectors at both ends? The thing is that logic voltages can be low and as a result suffer problems quicker when a connector might be a little dirty due to just being used for a long time in an environment prone to corossion or dirt setting off on the contacts, due to, for instance, high humidity.
I hate the fact that the second bearing is held by the steel plate and first one is just held by weak plastic. most g27's die because of the plastic housing gets cracked. If they just extended the piece of metal g27 would last forever.
Components cost:50$
why is my wheel so loud?
my G923 looks exactly same inside...
Can we change its rotation 90 to 360
GAWD! I wished this thing would work with Win11 :/
It should work? I have DFGT that works in W11. Just need to ask around for the right download, it hasn't been updated in centuries and is hidden. Then also need to Security settings of Windows, go into Device Security, and disable Core Isolation - Memory Integrity. With setting done like that, any drivers that worked on Windows 7 should all still just work! That's the one relevant thing that changed between 10 and 11 that this was enabled by default.
I was dissembling my g29 and i found a loose ring inside. Its a half ring and i dont know where it goes, also after replacing the usb cable the led and the buttons dont work.
i have the same problem
@@izabelakowalska8175 it goes under the rail and the gear. It's an space and put it there, i don't know what it does
@@GamerGius thx man me and my dad are putting it back together we dont know either what it does but we will see
@@izabelakowalska8175 U know that the curve should be like ths 🎧 right?
@@GamerGius yes we did put it like that
inside looks exactly like g29..why?
becasue the g29 is THE SAME THING just with a different wheel
Logitech could release just a wheel....take out the screws, unplug 2 wires......plug in g29 wires, put screws back in
you now have a g29
I notice you don't show it working after reassembly................
i noticed the same, as i have an issue with mine being totally off centre, so im going to attempt to pull mine apart tonight to see if i can get it to align
I have this and took it apart and a u shape metal fell out but don’t know where it goes. I watched your whole video and don’t see that piece no where. I have the g27 Logitech how can I send you a picture of what I’m talking about. Please I need to fix this by Tomorrow. Thanks.
Did you figure out where that metal u shape piece goes because i took mine apart too and that piece fell out for me as well
Same here its the wheel lock mechanism im sooo fucked if you guys find any solutions online pls respond been looking for a solution for months
I know this is 6 years old but those encoders are incremental not absolute. it doesn't matter if they get moved. It's an optical encoder wheel like you'd find in arcade trackballs, spinners and old PC mice that had a ball in them.
At 7 39 you're touching the optical encoder 5 pin wires
I lost that wire so is it possible to find one and plz share link where i can find one?
it wouldn't cause any problems , all of it is self calibrating except that movement arm
You skip the part i wanna see. Dang it!!