Відео

It should work? I have DFGT that works in W11. Just need to ask around for the right download, it hasn't been updated in centuries and is hidden. Then also need to Security settings of Windows, go into Device Security, and disable Core Isolation - Memory Integrity. With setting done like that, any drivers that worked on Windows 7 should all still just work! That's the one relevant thing that changed between 10 and 11 that this was enabled by default.

It doesn't have sensing electronics for the current. It just turns on the motors and waits for the encoder to stop emitting steps, because the rack has hit its stop. The motors are also just on the same H-bridge. Not exactly overburdened with complexity, it's like a really really nicely made toy, which is entirely appropriate.

Header Connector

@@gabrielnogarollidossantos1967 There are hundreds of types of header connectors....you need to know the pitch (distance between pins) and at times also the size of the pins in order to know what the correct type is.

Look for connectors that have a fast-on crimp-style of pin-header connector (try Dupont style as well, they can look similar). If there is still some wire left between the connector and the part where you knicked it you might be able to resolder that, there is no high current going through it. Not completely sure about the pin-pitch, I'll have to warn you that sometimes manufacturers can go for something custom-made and a consumer-available option for a connector might not fit well or at all because of a deviation of the norms for certain connectors. It could also be a SIL-style connector, but those are usually a little bit chunkier and do not use crimped pin-connectors but are soldered on. If it would not work out finding a replacement, you could try soldering a small extension-lead kind of thing directly to the pins on the motherboard (at the other side where the connector will be, given that the connector is a through-hole (which means, through the printed circuit board) connection and not one that connects to an electrical layer somewhere in the middle of the board, which I doubt it will be due to stability, but hey, manufacturers sometimes do weird things in order to make sure their devices break easily, but not to easily). The only thing with that last solution is having to be absolutely sure you get the pinout right.

Measure pin pitch, look at JST connectors - JST XH (2.5mm) and PH (2.0mm) are most likely candidates. I don't remember exactly which one is in there. The cheapest tool i found to crimp them well is iwiss IWS-2820M (Micro) that i got from their direct seller for $12 and you may also get pre-crimped wires in different pin counts and lengths.

I have no clue too, when my wheel died I opened it up, put it back together, then noticed the spring on my desk. If I had to guess, the two ends touch the base and the top of the bend touches the carousel. That way the spring is less likely to slide and roll about in the base, or somehow work loose (and also there is only one point of contact on the carousel, reducing sliding friction). You can see the trench it sits in at 11:30, although it looks like he has no spring, so I dont know how important it actually is.

They don't have carbon brushes, it's mostly copper or brass. They don't consume

@@parasyte25[EXTREMELY LOUD INCORRECT BUZZER]

How are you sure it's the microchip? If they did it the same way as in the Logitech Momo series, there isn't a whole lot of thing to break in the chip that listens to button pins, because the power dissipation in it is absolutely minimal. In the Logitech Momo they use an 8 button pin arrangement using a floating earth that get's pulled up for one button and for the other button on the same pin pulled down (from about 2.1 V to 3.3 for one of the buttons and about 0.4 for the other button on the same pin). They do this with a transistor or opamp of some sort (it's a little bit unclear, the typenumber seems to suggest it's a custom made part, I was unable to find a clear datasheet without being in doubt if I was looking at the actual part and not a clone or one that is similar in function). Did you try reseating the connectors at both ends? The thing is that logic voltages can be low and as a result suffer problems quicker when a connector might be a little dirty due to just being used for a long time in an environment prone to corossion or dirt setting off on the contacts, due to, for instance, high humidity.

i noticed the same, as i have an issue with mine being totally off centre, so im going to attempt to pull mine apart tonight to see if i can get it to align

Did you figure out where that metal u shape piece goes because i took mine apart too and that piece fell out for me as well

Same here its the wheel lock mechanism im sooo fucked if you guys find any solutions online pls respond been looking for a solution for months

thats what i wanna know

I know the piece your talking about. I’m guessing it goes in front of the piece that moves across side to side with the cog from the wheel making contact with the top of that piece think it goes in front with the two down and the middle hump is like a camel

Hi ziaa85. I’m pretty sure the metal band goes in the groove beneath where the rack and pinion goes, this will ensure there is enough tension to keep the gear train in place.

@L. Seriphus i thought it was odd too, but its an amazing wheel so i bought a second one

i have the same problem

@@izabelakowalska8175 it goes under the rail and the gear. It's an space and put it there, i don't know what it does

@@GamerGius thx man me and my dad are putting it back together we dont know either what it does but we will see

@@izabelakowalska8175 U know that the curve should be like ths 🎧 right?

@@GamerGius yes we did put it like that

I think that is like a usb cable. Only cause the conexions and the cable colors, but im not sure

becasue the g29 is THE SAME THING just with a different wheel Logitech could release just a wheel....take out the screws, unplug 2 wires......plug in g29 wires, put screws back in you now have a g29

BRO OMG IK ITS BEEN THREE YEARS BUT NOW I KNOW WHY MY WHEEL WAS DOING THAT CUZ I JUST BOUGHT THE WHEEL OFF SOMEONE AND YEA I WAS TRYING TO FIX IT AND I SEARCHED ONLINE AND THERE WAS NO SOLUTIONS

Honestly bro thank you so much

@@Noel-wn8dv i don't remember writing this but you're very welcome lol.

@@610demonkey Just a question when i try to fix it in a few days, how do line it up properly or like how do you know that you have done it correctly?

@@Noel-wn8dvUnfortunately it was so long ago I cant remember you just have to be careful that its on the track when you put it back together and it should work.

Hello, I should imagine the gear and the gear rail with those tiny teeth have slipped, causing it to not work properly. Try to re-align them if possible like he is doing at 12:52. Hope this helps! :-)

There so flimsy and break very easily

nethermind i got it out by taking a ring of to get the bearing off :) apparently there a 25$ 6910rs bearing... more expensive than i thought...and now i know why my wheel makes clicking sound... the bearing moved like 2 mm

Leo Beelen a bit late but i have has this wheel for about 3-4 years and if I replaced the bearing would the ratteling stop?

"Tear Down"... but not...

JB Weld

Any thoughts on tracing the metal flange, replicating and use tube section to offsetbetween the two accordingly?