I had just bought a similar case and never thought of using sealers on the foam to keep it around longer! I love the your idea of using flex seal and I can hear the flex seal guy yelling in my case, "SO I SEALED THIS FOAM IN HERE!"
Brilliant idea. Much better results than spraying plastidip. I applied about 7 coats of spray plastidip, and it looks like the example of just 1 coat of your 'brush on' flex seal solution
I'm two+ years in on the first one I did and even with regular use, the foam is sturdy as the day I sealed it. Having done it once, I do it for every case I have now and have even started sealing my friends' cases as well. A spray on would work with a solid surface, I imagine. Foam is just so damn thirsty that it soaks everything up. The first coat feels like I'm just pouring the sealant out of the can. Thanks for the comment!
@@sunnesonne On the older cases, the seal has ripped at high-traffic corners but it's still holding out. I continue to do this to new cases. The only difference is a go a bit slower on layouts. So I might spend a week or two experimenting with different gear placement in the case before I settle on a layout.
Here’s my solution for the harbor freight Apache 3800 pick foam I shared with a UA-camr who used that stuff as well. I use my Apache 3800 for firearms and just today I ran across these “Husky” brand pads used to save people’s knees when kneeling down. Coincidentally, the size I found at Home Depot if cut in half horizontally is the exact size of the two top layers of the 3900 pic foam. As you might imagine, the foam on the Husky knee pad is very firm and strong. So my challenge is to first cut it into two pieces then measure out the number of handguns I’ll be using (in my case 4 pistols and one .357 magnum. The pistols are pretty much of the compact size so they fit very nicely in a perpendicular orientation leaving room at the top for the longer .357 magnum. So I’m going to carefully measure out the width, approximately 1” wide by 7-10” long leaving rooms m in between each pistol for the magazines. The reason for all this is the same reason you used the spray. The pic foam is just junk. It falls apart as you’re picking it out and when inserting and removing the firearms in my case. So the trick would be to leave the egg carton type foam at the top and the solid foam at the bottom then have two layers of the Husky material in between the too. This stuff will not fall apart and is extremely flexible. So tomorrow the project would be to neatly cut the pad into two equal sections, glue them one in top of the other then measure exactly the width of each firearm slot leaving room for magazines for each respective magazine so they don’t get mixed up and are easy to identify. Also I’ll leave a horizontal slot at the top for the .357 which has room to fit above the pistols. I believe I’ll ha room for at least 4 pistols and maybe 5 going across with slots for mags in between. I’m also hoping to have room for speed loaders for the revolver and (I may be wishing for too much) a slot for ammunition. I think this might be a good alternative to the cheap and very porous and delicate pick foam and eliminate it entirely. As a range case this will hopefully turn out to be quite handy, handsome )depending on my cuts) and a well protected method of transport and storage although at home the firearms are kept in a safe. But I’m planning on camping and bringing them with me so I can lock the case and lock the handle to some fixed object in a camper. If you’re interested in seeing some pics I’ll be glad to share as I go along. It’s with great surprise that the measurement of the kneeling pad is exactly perfect to fill two layers of the 3800. If anyone try’s this idea let me know how it went for you. Your idea for strengthening the pick foam was a good one. But let’s see how my brainstorm works out. I’m not a UA-camr but I may take this opportunity to do my first video. Peace out ✌️ I wanted to put some before and after pics in here but you can’t include pics in comments unfortunately. Anyone interested please advise.
Pro tip: Plasti-Dip is basically Flex Seal in a spray can! I use plastidip on all of my pick-n-pull cases. I also use spray adhesive to glue the pick-n-pull down to the base layer of foam first. I like your painting suit. And the view from your back yard (assertion)...
Thanks! I hope I didn't come off as speaking in definitive terms. I've never tried plasti-dip and will use that on the next Pelican case I buy. I'm curious about it but just assumed that it wouldn't be what I need because I do extremely thick coats of sealant. Also, I love the idea of glueing the foam down. It hadn't occurred to me and I just sealed the underside as I would the top. Thanks for the comment!
@@JJKoester one advantage to not gluing the foam down to the base layer is that you can pull it out to clean any collected debris out of the case, or easily retrieve any stubborn hardware bits and baubles that might fall down inside the pockets.
This was informative and enjoyable to watch. Here is a complimentary interaction with the video to boost whatever it is that content creators are always looking for.
Wow, very nice! This seems to work better than Plasti-Dip! I see you did the tops, but not in the verticals. I'm thinking from my experience with Plasti-Dip of maybe doing all inner vertical edges with Plasti-Dip and then the tops and bottoms and outer edges with Flex Seal like you did. I did all the things I should do to show appreciation for the vid. 😁 Thanks for that, lol - gave us a chuckle, as we watch FB pull posts that look like they're suggesting people "do the things..." - great way of putting it. We may borrow that!
Maybe I missed it, but how much product did you use? I'm wanting to do a Apache 4800 case and don't want to purchase too much as I've not had good luck storing this stuff after use.
@@ReevesRacingGarage I think you could do two coats with a 16oz container (if that's available). We can get two coats on a pair of Pelican 1510s with plenty left over with a 32oz container. To your secondary point, we don't bother trying to store Flex Seal as we want it as creamy as possible on application and no matter how tight we seal the top, there always seems to be a thin film when we open it back up a couple months later and there's just no saving the rest once that starts. Thank you for the question!
Not dumb at all! We do not. We do multiple coats on the top because that's where we'll be jammin our mealy mitts the most. The insides don't see nearly as much abuse as the tops and the tops are so finished that it protects the insides.
Is this the same kind of foam as EPA Shadow Foam that is sold in sheets. They make a type that is 30mm thick and 2 colors. There's a black 5mm top layer stuck to a colored 25mm under layer. Tops are black and under can be pink, yellow or other color. The idea is you get a cool contrast when you pluck out the top layer. Thanks for the video.
I have never used the spray version of Flex Seal. I use such thick coats, I can't imagine the spray getting done what I want. However, if I were finishing a coat and wanted it to be more even, I would consider the spray. I just don't care how even the final coat is, just that the foam won't rip. Cheers!
I am liberal with my application and wait 24 hours between coats. I am living in Southern California and if I was doing this anywhere cooler or more humid, I would wait longer. Of course, if you use thinner layers, they'll dry faster. Thanks for the comment!
@@JJ-lu6mg I disagree with this comment. The reason I leave at least 24 hours in desert heat/dryness is to let it dry properly. The ones I've done quicker than that still smell of the sealant a year later. The ones I let dry properly smell fine. That said, from one JJ to another, if you don't like the smell of the sealant, don't use it. This video isn't a mandate, it's an option. Thank you for your comment!
Just as another option, polyethylene foam can be used in lieu of the soft foam and would not need the coating. 2.2 lb is fairly firm but is still foamy.
My guess would be yes but I would test it on a small piece before doing a larger piece. My guess is that cheaper foam is more air than foam and it will soak up the latex quicker. Please feel free to leave your results as a comment.
Great idea to prolong the life of the foam !! I'm now planning to do this to my case, and I just have a question. Have you tried to coat the inside? I mean where the tools would go, and not only the top and bottom layers.
I don't cure the inside of each well because, to date, there's been no need. The multiple coats on the top and bottom leave the foam so strong that I don't think it would be necessary. Also, I feel like the foam is less grippy and I want the gear to slide out as efficiently as possible. Adding a layer of sealant would quite literally gum up those works.
2 thick layers or 3 thin layers on the top as that side takes a lot of hits pulling gear out and placing it back in. 2 very thin layers on the bottom. Nothing in the middle.
I have never used the spray version of Flex Seal. I use such thick coats, I can't imagine the spray getting done what I want. However, if I were finishing a coat and wanted it to be more even, I would consider the spray. Thanks for asking!
@@JJKoester sweet thanks! I think if doing a “clean foam clean out” clear would look cool, if you have to glue some foam blocks back it may be better to give it a coat of black then clear so it doesn’t show glue, etc.
@@vaporwareproducts Love the suggestion. As much as I hate to say it, I doubt we're going to have to mend any of the foam in our current gear. We've already put it through holy hell and anywhere the sealant is, the foam isn't ripping. You are making me really curious about an all-clear coat though. Next case, for sure.
I'm currently doing research for sealing the foam of a rifle case (Plano, rather than Pelican) for a new airsoft rifle, and I wasn't really happy with the texture of spayed plasti-dip. The triple-coat example you show @6:12 is much closer to the texture I want to get out of this. I do have a few questions though. 1: You mention that the case you did with the three coat technique was two of black and one of clear. My Case's pluck foam is approximately 36"x14"x1.5". How much Flex Seal Liquid would you say would be required for that? I intend to seal the bottom of the pluck with a single coat, leaving it rough. Then do the sides and top with two coats, followed by a coat of clear. Doing a similar treatment to the base foam. My current estimate is two cans of White (reason for that in a moment), one of Clear. 2: I intended to do a two-color install, with gunmetal grey pluck foam over a red (perhaps metalized, still in the planning stage there) bed foam. Most of these cases I've seen done are for camera equipment, so the wells are very deep, and bed foam isn't very visible, but I think this is going to work much better for a rifle case, as the pluck foam is much shallower, allowing the bed foam to be seen much easier. My question is: do you have any information or idea on how Plasti Dip and Flex Seal interact? My current idea is to do two coats of White Flex Seal to get the surface finish and texture, two or three coats of Plasti Dip for color, then one coat of Clear Flex Seal for colorfastness. The reason for white rather than black is that I _think_ white would cover up better. I figure one can of Plasti Dip in each color should work.
1) I believe a 32-ounce container is the smallest they sell and should be enough for 36x14 inches. I don't coat the sides as those are low-impact spots and aren't likely to wear. All you'd be doing is adding thickness to the foam which would make it sit less comfortably in the case. 2) I'm sorry to say that I don't know much about plastic-dip and flex seal. My suspicion is that once they're dry, they won't interact much at all. Flexseal is strong stuff when it's dry and I imagine a dip solution would also become terrifically stable once dry. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@JJKoester Thanks! Yeah, 32oz. is the smallest I've seen too. Now planning on one can of the base color, one can of the clear, one can of each plasti-dip color. I may just plasti-dip the insides of the wells when I do the top, so the colors are right, but I think you're right, doing multiple coats on the wells just puts an unneeded squeeze on what's going in them.
So glad you dig it. When I was shooting that, a group of jocks rode by on bicycles and started making fun of me for being a nerd. But, darn it, I thought it was a pretty funny cut.
Try letting each coat dry completely before adding another coat or the small will follow you for months, however faint. This is easy for us out in the desert but I can easily imagine how long drying would take anywhere else.
@@SMack-mj2bp Tell us how it goes! My concern is that the top and bottom create a seal that makes the finisher in the middle dry really slowly but my OTHER theory is that if you can smell it, that means that particulates are floating away and that means it's drying.
Great video, but I tried it on a Husky case and was disappointed that the foam shrunk up about 1.5 inches in length and an inch in width. I don't know if it was the Plasti Dip or the quality of the foam itself. The finish though was what I was looking for. I had to wedge the insert into the case with scrap pieces of leftover foam.
I've always been comfortable with 2 masks. But, I'm not the final word on your health. If you want to get a proper industrial mask and wear that, you could. If you smell the stuff and feel like you'd need 3 N95 masks, go for it.
We're not anti-spray. We just went straight for the paint-on kind because we heap in on so dang thick. The next case we cure, we'll use the spray to see how it goes. Thanks for the comment!
You know if you already own a flat head screwdriver, “or really anything else flat like a pry bar” there’s no need to spend a buck, buck fiddy on a “paint key” 😂 also, I’ll never paint anything again without wearing a giant bunny suit..
I used to use a screw driver but one I started making fat UA-cam cash, I figured why not live it up? This video alone earned me $0.0003. I figured if I had that dollar buck fiddy, I should let the world know.
@@JJKoester I found the video in a google search trying to figure out if I could use clear flex seal in a spray can instead of plastidip for my pelican foam, your the first video that pops up when you google pelican foam and flex seal 🤣
I'm sorry, but very early on in life I learned to never take advice from any pink bunny who can't fight his way into a can. Also, if it smells so awful, why would I want to smell it every time I open my gun case???? No sabe.
That's an absolutely fair opinion. I'm more forgiving of the bunny community, especially around Easter time, but I understand and respect where you're coming from.
Do NOT do this people! I used flex seal to paint my gun case foam and the smell of flex seal is so strong and NEVER goes away. Every single time you open your gun case it's unbearable. I had to throw my foam away it continued to smell so strong. Be smart, listen to my advice!
We do 2-3 coats and what you're talking about absolutely happens if you don't let each coat dry completely. Thinner coats dry more efficiently. What you're saying is absolutely true but there are ways to mitigate the smell. Also, we live in Southern California where the air is incredibly dry. We leave it outside for the 24 hours of drying so it gets maximum sun. If you're living in a more humid area, I would go for 48 hours or more if necessary.
That’s the solvents off gassing or “flashing” off. You didn’t let those coats dry because what you should be left with is rubber coating without solvent smell. You need to set the foam out in the sun for a couple of days, or that’s what you needed to have done prior to tossing it.
@@JJKoester…but even if you let it dry properly is gonna have a strong smell?. I am very sensitive to strong smells that’s what I ask! Great video BTW!!🤘🏻
@@asdproducciones-alemusic1146 If you're very sensitive, this might not be the best solution for curing the foam. It definitely has 'the smell' even if dried properly. Perhaps if you did a week in the sun, you could air it out but I've never had the patience. 🙂
I hated this video right up until I saw what you wore to paint. Brilliant.
I gotta give you a sincere thank you for hanging in there. I've hate-watched plenty of videos but have yet to find one that won me over by the end.
I cant wait to see the results. Half way through the video!
@@Sola_Scriptura_1.618 Donald Duck and Fozzie Bear on one comment thread! This is a dream come true for me!!!
@@JJKoester dont forget about the East Bunny!
I had just bought a similar case and never thought of using sealers on the foam to keep it around longer! I love the your idea of using flex seal and I can hear the flex seal guy yelling in my case, "SO I SEALED THIS FOAM IN HERE!"
He was off my radar until I read this comment. The dude is cool by me. He says "woodur" instead of "water", just as the heavenly Father intended.
Brilliant idea. Much better results than spraying plastidip. I applied about 7 coats of spray plastidip, and it looks like the example of just 1 coat of your 'brush on' flex seal solution
I'm two+ years in on the first one I did and even with regular use, the foam is sturdy as the day I sealed it. Having done it once, I do it for every case I have now and have even started sealing my friends' cases as well.
A spray on would work with a solid surface, I imagine. Foam is just so damn thirsty that it soaks everything up. The first coat feels like I'm just pouring the sealant out of the can.
Thanks for the comment!
@@JJKoesterhow does it do now? Does it shed a bit of flex seal on the items in the case?
@@sunnesonne On the older cases, the seal has ripped at high-traffic corners but it's still holding out. I continue to do this to new cases. The only difference is a go a bit slower on layouts. So I might spend a week or two experimenting with different gear placement in the case before I settle on a layout.
Nicely done! I really liked the comparison of 1, 2 & 3 coats at the end of the video as well!
Glad you liked it! Here's hoping we can continue to create videos that you enjoy!
This was the best tutorial i've seen in a long time. keeping it functional het hilarious. 10/10
I’m here for your cute outfit. Definitely try the paint with all of my hard case. Love it
Here’s my solution for the harbor freight Apache 3800 pick foam I shared with a UA-camr who used that stuff as well.
I use my Apache 3800 for firearms and just today I ran across these “Husky” brand pads used to save people’s knees when kneeling down. Coincidentally, the size I found at Home Depot if cut in half horizontally is the exact size of the two top layers of the 3900 pic foam. As you might imagine, the foam on the Husky knee pad is very firm and strong. So my challenge is to first cut it into two pieces then measure out the number of handguns I’ll be using (in my case 4 pistols and one .357 magnum. The pistols are pretty much of the compact size so they fit very nicely in a perpendicular orientation leaving room at the top for the longer .357 magnum. So I’m going to carefully measure out the width, approximately 1” wide by 7-10” long leaving rooms m in between each pistol for the magazines. The reason for all this is the same reason you used the spray. The pic foam is just junk. It falls apart as you’re picking it out and when inserting and removing the firearms in my case. So the trick would be to leave the egg carton type foam at the top and the solid foam at the bottom then have two layers of the Husky material in between the too. This stuff will not fall apart and is extremely flexible. So tomorrow the project would be to neatly cut the pad into two equal sections, glue them one in top of the other then measure exactly the width of each firearm slot leaving room for magazines for each respective magazine so they don’t get mixed up and are easy to identify. Also I’ll leave a horizontal slot at the top for the .357 which has room to fit above the pistols. I believe I’ll ha room for at least 4 pistols and maybe 5 going across with slots for mags in between. I’m also hoping to have room for speed loaders for the revolver and (I may be wishing for too much) a slot for ammunition. I think this might be a good alternative to the cheap and very porous and delicate pick foam and eliminate it entirely. As a range case this will hopefully turn out to be quite handy, handsome )depending on my cuts) and a well protected method of transport and storage although at home the firearms are kept in a safe. But I’m planning on camping and bringing them with me so I can lock the case and lock the handle to some fixed object in a camper. If you’re interested in seeing some pics I’ll be glad to share as I go along. It’s with great surprise that the measurement of the kneeling pad is exactly perfect to fill two layers of the 3800. If anyone try’s this idea let me know how it went for you. Your idea for strengthening the pick foam was a good one. But let’s see how my brainstorm works out. I’m not a UA-camr but I may take this opportunity to do my first video. Peace out ✌️
I wanted to put some before and after pics in here but you can’t include pics in comments unfortunately. Anyone interested please advise.
Amazing, I’ll definitely be doing this. Thank you
Pro tip: Plasti-Dip is basically Flex Seal in a spray can! I use plastidip on all of my pick-n-pull cases. I also use spray adhesive to glue the pick-n-pull down to the base layer of foam first.
I like your painting suit. And the view from your back yard (assertion)...
Thanks! I hope I didn't come off as speaking in definitive terms. I've never tried plasti-dip and will use that on the next Pelican case I buy. I'm curious about it but just assumed that it wouldn't be what I need because I do extremely thick coats of sealant. Also, I love the idea of glueing the foam down. It hadn't occurred to me and I just sealed the underside as I would the top.
Thanks for the comment!
How is that a pro tip?
@@JJKoester one advantage to not gluing the foam down to the base layer is that you can pull it out to clean any collected debris out of the case, or easily retrieve any stubborn hardware bits and baubles that might fall down inside the pockets.
This was informative and enjoyable to watch. Here is a complimentary interaction with the video to boost whatever it is that content creators are always looking for.
Boom! Thanks for the comment and the resultant up-doot that the almighty algorithm will bestow upon me!
Wow, very nice! This seems to work better than Plasti-Dip! I see you did the tops, but not in the verticals. I'm thinking from my experience with Plasti-Dip of maybe doing all inner vertical edges with Plasti-Dip and then the tops and bottoms and outer edges with Flex Seal like you did.
I did all the things I should do to show appreciation for the vid. 😁 Thanks for that, lol - gave us a chuckle, as we watch FB pull posts that look like they're suggesting people "do the things..." - great way of putting it. We may borrow that!
Maybe I missed it, but how much product did you use? I'm wanting to do a Apache 4800 case and don't want to purchase too much as I've not had good luck storing this stuff after use.
@@ReevesRacingGarage I think you could do two coats with a 16oz container (if that's available). We can get two coats on a pair of Pelican 1510s with plenty left over with a 32oz container. To your secondary point, we don't bother trying to store Flex Seal as we want it as creamy as possible on application and no matter how tight we seal the top, there always seems to be a thin film when we open it back up a couple months later and there's just no saving the rest once that starts.
Thank you for the question!
Do you only seal the top, or did you go all the way down the insides of the pockets?
Thanks 👍 for sharing this with us. Great 🇺🇸 👍 job 🇺🇸 👍
WELL SHOT, WELL EXPLAINED AND EXTREMELY WELL WRITTEN!!!!
This guy is a real character and I'm now a subscriber lol
Real dumb question. Do you paint rhe inside walls of the foam aswell?
Not dumb at all! We do not. We do multiple coats on the top because that's where we'll be jammin our mealy mitts the most. The insides don't see nearly as much abuse as the tops and the tops are so finished that it protects the insides.
@@JJKoester thank you so much for the fast response! Greatly helpful!
I had this same question
Is this the same kind of foam as EPA Shadow Foam that is sold in sheets. They make a type that is 30mm thick and 2 colors. There's a black 5mm top layer stuck to a colored 25mm under layer. Tops are black and under can be pink, yellow or other color. The idea is you get a cool contrast when you pluck out the top layer. Thanks for the video.
will the spray version of Flex Seal work as well?
I have never used the spray version of Flex Seal. I use such thick coats, I can't imagine the spray getting done what I want. However, if I were finishing a coat and wanted it to be more even, I would consider the spray. I just don't care how even the final coat is, just that the foam won't rip.
Cheers!
Solid video. Great tips. How long do you recommend waiting between layers?
I am liberal with my application and wait 24 hours between coats. I am living in Southern California and if I was doing this anywhere cooler or more humid, I would wait longer. Of course, if you use thinner layers, they'll dry faster.
Thanks for the comment!
The problem with sealing the foam is the smell never goes away even after drying. I definitely don’t recommend doing this.
@@JJ-lu6mg I disagree with this comment. The reason I leave at least 24 hours in desert heat/dryness is to let it dry properly. The ones I've done quicker than that still smell of the sealant a year later. The ones I let dry properly smell fine.
That said, from one JJ to another, if you don't like the smell of the sealant, don't use it. This video isn't a mandate, it's an option.
Thank you for your comment!
Love your painting outfit!
We bust out the costumes every now and then. I took some shit from a bunch of jocks who were biking by while filming that so I'm glad you dug it.
Plastidip does the trick as well, good video
This comment landed the day after I finished curing foam insets for all of our new cases.
Guess I'll have to buy more gear to test this out. ;-)
Just as another option, polyethylene foam can be used in lieu of the soft foam and would not need the coating. 2.2 lb is fairly firm but is still foamy.
Will this work with cheaper foam
My guess would be yes but I would test it on a small piece before doing a larger piece. My guess is that cheaper foam is more air than foam and it will soak up the latex quicker. Please feel free to leave your results as a comment.
Great idea to prolong the life of the foam !!
I'm now planning to do this to my case, and I just have a question. Have you tried to coat the inside? I mean where the tools would go, and not only the top and bottom layers.
I don't cure the inside of each well because, to date, there's been no need. The multiple coats on the top and bottom leave the foam so strong that I don't think it would be necessary. Also, I feel like the foam is less grippy and I want the gear to slide out as efficiently as possible. Adding a layer of sealant would quite literally gum up those works.
Did you seal the entire foam or just the top?
2 thick layers or 3 thin layers on the top as that side takes a lot of hits pulling gear out and placing it back in.
2 very thin layers on the bottom. Nothing in the middle.
Thank you
@@JJKoester What about now? that 1 year has passed. Do you think that its necessary to cover the middle?
Great Video! Why not use the Flex Seal in a spray can? I’ve seen people us the Plasti Dip. Have you tried that?
Will you get the same results with the spray flex seal?
I have never used the spray version of Flex Seal. I use such thick coats, I can't imagine the spray getting done what I want. However, if I were finishing a coat and wanted it to be more even, I would consider the spray.
Thanks for asking!
The rabbit suit 😂😂 Brilliant!! For that reason alone I’ll subscribe! Good advice too …
Wonder what only clear would look like?
Next case I seal, I'll do it all clear. Thanks for the comment!
@@JJKoester sweet thanks! I think if doing a “clean foam clean out” clear would look cool, if you have to glue some foam blocks back it may be better to give it a coat of black then clear so it doesn’t show glue, etc.
@@vaporwareproducts Love the suggestion. As much as I hate to say it, I doubt we're going to have to mend any of the foam in our current gear. We've already put it through holy hell and anywhere the sealant is, the foam isn't ripping. You are making me really curious about an all-clear coat though. Next case, for sure.
@@JJKoester haha! All good, thank you for the vid and starting the idea thread....
Has anyone tried the all clear coat on the foam yet and if so how did it turn out?
You’re a beast 😂🙌🏼❤️
I love the video description :) you, sir, should write for Black Library!
That's incredibly specific! But, you're actually not that far off. I have done writing for Fantasy Flight Games.
@@JJKoester I'm not surprised! Amazing content
Amazing info, and I learned it all from the Easter Bunny
I'm currently doing research for sealing the foam of a rifle case (Plano, rather than Pelican) for a new airsoft rifle, and I wasn't really happy with the texture of spayed plasti-dip. The triple-coat example you show @6:12 is much closer to the texture I want to get out of this.
I do have a few questions though.
1: You mention that the case you did with the three coat technique was two of black and one of clear. My Case's pluck foam is approximately 36"x14"x1.5". How much Flex Seal Liquid would you say would be required for that? I intend to seal the bottom of the pluck with a single coat, leaving it rough. Then do the sides and top with two coats, followed by a coat of clear. Doing a similar treatment to the base foam. My current estimate is two cans of White (reason for that in a moment), one of Clear.
2: I intended to do a two-color install, with gunmetal grey pluck foam over a red (perhaps metalized, still in the planning stage there) bed foam. Most of these cases I've seen done are for camera equipment, so the wells are very deep, and bed foam isn't very visible, but I think this is going to work much better for a rifle case, as the pluck foam is much shallower, allowing the bed foam to be seen much easier. My question is: do you have any information or idea on how Plasti Dip and Flex Seal interact? My current idea is to do two coats of White Flex Seal to get the surface finish and texture, two or three coats of Plasti Dip for color, then one coat of Clear Flex Seal for colorfastness. The reason for white rather than black is that I _think_ white would cover up better. I figure one can of Plasti Dip in each color should work.
1) I believe a 32-ounce container is the smallest they sell and should be enough for 36x14 inches. I don't coat the sides as those are low-impact spots and aren't likely to wear. All you'd be doing is adding thickness to the foam which would make it sit less comfortably in the case.
2) I'm sorry to say that I don't know much about plastic-dip and flex seal. My suspicion is that once they're dry, they won't interact much at all. Flexseal is strong stuff when it's dry and I imagine a dip solution would also become terrifically stable once dry.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@JJKoester Thanks! Yeah, 32oz. is the smallest I've seen too. Now planning on one can of the base color, one can of the clear, one can of each plasti-dip color. I may just plasti-dip the insides of the wells when I do the top, so the colors are right, but I think you're right, doing multiple coats on the wells just puts an unneeded squeeze on what's going in them.
I was wrong! 16-oz is the smallest can of Flex Seal that you can get. That should be enough. I get to 20x11 cases done with a 32-oz can.
@@richardhanck972 16-oz cans here - flexsealproducts.com/products/flex-seal-liquid
@@JJKoester It comes in pints?!
ua-cam.com/video/rMyPqtFgy94/v-deo.html
Lol at the bunny suit. Love it
So glad you dig it. When I was shooting that, a group of jocks rode by on bicycles and started making fun of me for being a nerd. But, darn it, I thought it was a pretty funny cut.
Good video
Thanks! Glad it was useful!
Funny, and informative
Any tips to get rid of the smell? I did mine 3 days ago and it still wreaks?
Oven flash? Lol
Try letting each coat dry completely before adding another coat or the small will follow you for months, however faint. This is easy for us out in the desert but I can easily imagine how long drying would take anywhere else.
@@JJKoester that's 100% the issue I did not allow enough time for each coat to dry. I'm going to leave it out in the sun for a few weeks
@@SMack-mj2bp Tell us how it goes! My concern is that the top and bottom create a seal that makes the finisher in the middle dry really slowly but my OTHER theory is that if you can smell it, that means that particulates are floating away and that means it's drying.
Sweet!!
Neat! Petite!
So, get a witch's shawl on
A roost that you can crawl on
We're gonna pay a call on
The Addams Family
Too much talking, but I did learn something after seeing the results of each coat, thanks.
You are not the first person to levy that claim. Thanks for sticking through it despite my blithering. :-)
Really funny guy
Great video, thank you
Glad you enjoyed it! Also, thank you for taking the time to comment. We really appreciate it o'er here.
first impression, complete dork! But actually, I like this dude - he is funny! I would have a beer with him. oh yeah, content was good too.
Oh my oh my you're so cute in the bunny costume. ❤️ Thank you for not doing this in the house. 😅
Amazing what a picture on a wall will do😂
Great video, but I tried it on a Husky case and was disappointed that the foam shrunk up about 1.5 inches in length and an inch in width.
I don't know if it was the Plasti Dip or the quality of the foam itself. The finish though was what I was looking for.
I had to wedge the insert into the case with scrap pieces of leftover foam.
Is the bunny suit required?😁No but is 2 masks enough protection?
I've always been comfortable with 2 masks. But, I'm not the final word on your health. If you want to get a proper industrial mask and wear that, you could. If you smell the stuff and feel like you'd need 3 N95 masks, go for it.
No Spray can of flex seal? , I sward my boat in half.....
We're not anti-spray. We just went straight for the paint-on kind because we heap in on so dang thick. The next case we cure, we'll use the spray to see how it goes.
Thanks for the comment!
Lmfao that outfit to destroy! Laughing out loud here real hard! Thanks for the video!
Thanks for commenting! We were proud of that cut, if I'm being perfectly honest.
You know if you already own a flat head screwdriver, “or really anything else flat like a pry bar” there’s no need to spend a buck, buck fiddy on a “paint key” 😂 also, I’ll never paint anything again without wearing a giant bunny suit..
I used to use a screw driver but one I started making fat UA-cam cash, I figured why not live it up? This video alone earned me $0.0003. I figured if I had that dollar buck fiddy, I should let the world know.
@@JJKoester I found the video in a google search trying to figure out if I could use clear flex seal in a spray can instead of plastidip for my pelican foam, your the first video that pops up when you google pelican foam and flex seal 🤣
I'm sorry, but very early on in life I learned to never take advice from any pink bunny who can't fight his way into a can. Also, if it smells so awful, why would I want to smell it every time I open my gun case???? No sabe.
That's an absolutely fair opinion. I'm more forgiving of the bunny community, especially around Easter time, but I understand and respect where you're coming from.
Did you get that crap all over a public park bench? Smh
This guy is missing his true calling. He's a laugh riot and should start doing standup comedy!
Do NOT do this people! I used flex seal to paint my gun case foam and the smell of flex seal is so strong and NEVER goes away. Every single time you open your gun case it's unbearable. I had to throw my foam away it continued to smell so strong. Be smart, listen to my advice!
We do 2-3 coats and what you're talking about absolutely happens if you don't let each coat dry completely. Thinner coats dry more efficiently. What you're saying is absolutely true but there are ways to mitigate the smell.
Also, we live in Southern California where the air is incredibly dry. We leave it outside for the 24 hours of drying so it gets maximum sun. If you're living in a more humid area, I would go for 48 hours or more if necessary.
That’s the solvents off gassing or “flashing” off. You didn’t let those coats dry because what you should be left with is rubber coating without solvent smell. You need to set the foam out in the sun for a couple of days, or that’s what you needed to have done prior to tossing it.
@@JJKoester…but even if you let it dry properly is gonna have a strong smell?. I am very sensitive to strong smells that’s what I ask! Great video BTW!!🤘🏻
@@asdproducciones-alemusic1146 If you're very sensitive, this might not be the best solution for curing the foam. It definitely has 'the smell' even if dried properly. Perhaps if you did a week in the sun, you could air it out but I've never had the patience. 🙂
@@JJKoester …thank you! I need this but I think maybe I will not be able to use it like that! 🥲
... I use a piece of cardboard. ☺️You're silly!
hahahaha great narration
Glad you liked it and thanks for watching!
that cloth mask (even in layers) is not going to do anything for the VOCs you are dealing with when using flex seal. Get a real resperator.
😂
Thanks for the comment! I don't think people understand how sincere UA-camrs are being when they say that comments help. Cheers!
It's called "pick n pluck." Not "pluck and peel" 💁💁
Oh, not in Utica, no; it's an Albany expression.
You talk to much. Get to the point!!!
Sorry about that. We agree with you. Newer videos are briefer (except for our long-form reviews).