It may help reduce the curve to do light coats as others have stated, but also to coat both sides (top and bottom) alternate doing light coats, many light coats will be much better than only a few heavy coats.
If you want to avoid the curve try making each coat lighter and let each coat fully dry before you do the next. It’s also a great way to keep pick and pluck foam together and will also take away the cubed look.
Great point, Thomas. I definitely rushed this particular case because I was making a video. But I have gotten much smoother results on new batches where I took my time with the coats, and didn't glop it on too thick. Thanks for the comment.
@@DeafDirector I ruined a few to many pieces of foam before I figured out I was being slightly special. I still say it wasn’t my fault, the foam was defective
If you use thin coats with the PlastiDip, and alternate spraying each side 1 coat at a time, you won't have much an issue with the foam warping, if at all.
Great, great point Bryan K. I think I rushed it a bit for the video, but I have done that on some of my my newer applications and noticed the same thing. Thanks for the comment!
How was the plastidip and the apache block foam results? Did you use a electric carving knife to cut the foam? I was thinking of plastidip or flex seal with my apache 4800.
Is that cellular glass foam? If so you can easily buy a pretty big block for $50 and you could make about 4 or 5 sheets for you Pelican case instead of paying $45 for just one.
How's it feel? Is it scratchy or smooth? I'm thinking about doing this to some foam for a trumpet/flugelhorn insert I made, but wondering if it'll scratch the finish.
Its a good question, but I can tell you from having used this method on multiple cases, for several years, and treating my cases very roughly, the Plastidip looks just as good as the day I applied it. There has been no "peeling" or rolling apart. So I think you can probably rest assured that once the Plastidip is applied it will not cause you any problems. Have a great day!
How much weight does the Plasti Dip add? I have a situation in which I am creeping very close to the airline checkin weight limits with a Pelican Air 1626 containing a portable PA system. Knowing just how much weight Plasti Dip will be helpful.
Hey nawboy, I am not sure an exact number, but in my experience the weigh difference should be negligible. I have never noticed any weight difference with it on, personally. If it added any weight it would be less than a micro fiber cleaning cloth. Good luck on the trip!
Does the plastidip create a surface that will scratch up stuff. Thinking of using a pelican case for my watches and worried this will scratch them. Cheers.
Hey Rag Man, I have never had PlastiDip scratch any of my camera equipment, but I have never been in a situation where I would use it with something as delicate as a watch face. I would advise taking your pelican foam and applying the PlastiDip to a small portion (maybe an insert or two) and putting a couple of test watches in there. I think you will be fine, but it is probably good to test so you are 100% sure
@@rag_man673 It dries into a rubber texture so you shouldn’t have an issue. To make sure you get a smooth finish warm the can in hot water then shake it for a couple minutes before you spray and even with foam start with a light first coat(basically peppered). If you end up with any rough edges or texture dip your finger tip in rubbing alcohol and gently rub the area down. The alcohol will soften and liquify it again and will dry back to the same texture.
Hey Kyle, thanks for the comment! Kaizen foam is awesome, but the largest size you can buy is 2 1/4" thick vs the 3" Pelican Case foam. This leads to two pieces not fitting perfectly in the pelican 1510 cases that I use. (it may work well for other pelican case sizes), and it is a little more expensive. It's a good idea, though, and I may end up trying this out one day. Thanks for the tip.
It may help reduce the curve to do light coats as others have stated, but also to coat both sides (top and bottom) alternate doing light coats, many light coats will be much better than only a few heavy coats.
In the savings/justification, you forgot to mention the time saved customizing the foam every time you need a replacement.
If you want to avoid the curve try making each coat lighter and let each coat fully dry before you do the next.
It’s also a great way to keep pick and pluck foam together and will also take away the cubed look.
Great point, Thomas. I definitely rushed this particular case because I was making a video. But I have gotten much smoother results on new batches where I took my time with the coats, and didn't glop it on too thick. Thanks for the comment.
@@DeafDirector I ruined a few to many pieces of foam before I figured out I was being slightly special. I still say it wasn’t my fault, the foam was defective
If you use thin coats with the PlastiDip, and alternate spraying each side 1 coat at a time, you won't have much an issue with the foam warping, if at all.
Great, great point Bryan K. I think I rushed it a bit for the video, but I have done that on some of my my newer applications and noticed the same thing. Thanks for the comment!
Workflow is paramount to pros in any field. Visual contact with each piece, being able to see immediately eases the mind, reduces work. Great share.
Couldn't agree with you more! Thanks for the comment
@@DeafDirector 👍
Just what I was thinking about getting, now I know for sure I will. I have the Apache 2800 case..
Good Luck, PR!
How was the plastidip and the apache block foam results? Did you use a electric carving knife to cut the foam? I was thinking of plastidip or flex seal with my apache 4800.
Is there an inexpensive source of replacement foam? I’m so worried of messing it up and not being able to replace the foam.
Is that cellular glass foam? If so you can easily buy a pretty big block for $50 and you could make about 4 or 5 sheets for you Pelican case instead of paying $45 for just one.
Good question. I'll research that. Thanks for the comment!
do you spray all sides of the foam? also all layers?
How's it feel? Is it scratchy or smooth? I'm thinking about doing this to some foam for a trumpet/flugelhorn insert I made, but wondering if it'll scratch the finish.
I feel like the plastidip would start to “peel” or roll apart and make a mess from continued in/out use of things in the case
Its a good question, but I can tell you from having used this method on multiple cases, for several years, and treating my cases very roughly, the Plastidip looks just as good as the day I applied it. There has been no "peeling" or rolling apart. So I think you can probably rest assured that once the Plastidip is applied it will not cause you any problems. Have a great day!
Thanks for the info!
Nice video. Did you spray coat both sides of the foam or just the top?
Hey Dean, I applied multiple coats to the top, and on the bottom I did one light coat for a little bit of extra support. Thanks for the comment!
How much weight does the Plasti Dip add? I have a situation in which I am creeping very close to the airline checkin weight limits with a Pelican Air 1626 containing a portable PA system. Knowing just how much weight Plasti Dip will be helpful.
Hey nawboy, I am not sure an exact number, but in my experience the weigh difference should be negligible. I have never noticed any weight difference with it on, personally. If it added any weight it would be less than a micro fiber cleaning cloth. Good luck on the trip!
Would it make the foam harder?
Does the plastidip create a surface that will scratch up stuff. Thinking of using a pelican case for my watches and worried this will scratch them. Cheers.
Hey Rag Man, I have never had PlastiDip scratch any of my camera equipment, but I have never been in a situation where I would use it with something as delicate as a watch face. I would advise taking your pelican foam and applying the PlastiDip to a small portion (maybe an insert or two) and putting a couple of test watches in there. I think you will be fine, but it is probably good to test so you are 100% sure
@@DeafDirector thank you for getting back to me. Sounds good. Have a great Christmas.
@@rag_man673 It dries into a rubber texture so you shouldn’t have an issue. To make sure you get a smooth finish warm the can in hot water then shake it for a couple minutes before you spray and even with foam start with a light first coat(basically peppered). If you end up with any rough edges or texture dip your finger tip in rubbing alcohol and gently rub the area down. The alcohol will soften and liquify it again and will dry back to the same texture.
I hope ya didn’t use that for your timepieces …
@@joecola6487 I didn't.
I am looking for 3.7 cm Polyurethane Pad base foam for my HPRC camera case. I can’t find the right one. Could anyone help me with this please?
Have you tried kaizen foam?
Hey Kyle, thanks for the comment! Kaizen foam is awesome, but the largest size you can buy is 2 1/4" thick vs the 3" Pelican Case foam. This leads to two pieces not fitting perfectly in the pelican 1510 cases that I use. (it may work well for other pelican case sizes), and it is a little more expensive. It's a good idea, though, and I may end up trying this out one day. Thanks for the tip.
Its 17$ dollars 2024 😂
Weird, I just bought 3 cans for a couple of different projects and it was 7 each
It’s foam, not foam core.