IMO when it comes to "racing" material life is secondary to performance. What matters most is consistency and lap times. I had EBC pads and the performance was lackluster as well as the pad came unadhered from the backing plate halfway through the life span of the pad. I never had that problem with the Hawk pads and the performance gains are significantly different. I have the Hawk Ferro Carbon street pads vs the EBC Red Stuff. Never raced or tracked (spirited canyon driving through Appalachia) but I have seen comparison testing and the Hawk product outperforms EBC. I never experienced the pads that you spoke of so I cannot comment concerning them.
Also noticed that you need cooling for the front rotors. That semi floating CSL rotor design is weird and makes it hard to get air into inner veins to pump out the heat from both rotor surfaces. I see some pad smearing on the discs. Try installing cooling ducts or Vorshlag deflectors. I'm sure it didn't help you that your pads were almost at backing plates as that reduces heat capacity substantially and you probably melted them some. I ran cooling ducts at Laguna (brake heavy track) and brakes held up really well, although that was with brand new dtc70 up front. I need to go back to Laguna once the pads are more worn to test it out. But the CSL rotor is not good at cooling, so you have to force some air in there. Will def improve consumables life, even if not fading.
Hey, I do have cooling ducts guided direct pushing air from where fog lights used to be, have been running this set up like that for past 4 years, including when I was running dtc-60 pads, your right it definitely 👍 does help in terms of brake holding up longer in sessions and extending rotor life as well rotos last at least 25% longer then prior running with ducts, they would start cracking at their 50% rotor life prior with ducts that has reduced significantly so ducts are the way to go for these drilled rotors.
@@MotorsportInspired Oh nice. Just looks like when you were running the pads low, there was not enough heat capacity there and they started overheating and smearing. Did you get a hard motorsport/bimmerworld kit, or did you do diy kit?
@@Richfxx They have been fantastic last season. I went with the DTC-60. Experienced absolutely no brake fade, and had good wear. But in urgent braking situations they can bite TOO HARD and cause the wheels to lock up quite easily. I either need to get better or get a little less aggressive pads next season.
@@dunteman_racing i’m looking for a pad that I can drive on the streets like an asshole on track to its full extent sounds like the DCt’s may become dangerous driving on the streets
I was actually in touch with fcpeuro management all this time in regards to ds1.11 as I did order ds1.11 from them last month but order was canceled, unfortunately they have lost their supplier for ds1.11 pads and they are not going to be offering them for the foreseeable future I was advised 😔 which is a bummer was looking forward to getting them from FcpEuro
@@MotorsportInspired oh I see. That is a bummer. I was in contact with them beginning of Jan when they removed 1.11 pads from the site, so I wanted to know what was up. At that point they were expecting stock end of Feb. :( Your info is more recent.
Yea I literally talked to them about this yesterday, I’m hoping they will eventually bring them back at some point, until then I guess we have to find other options.🤷
Iron remover and scrub with a clay bar. Not sure if it would 100% work but that’s what I would try 🤷🏻♂️ I mean those wheels look pretty F’ed so best of luck to you
@@MotorsportInspired Hmm, if you have a driver drill maybe pick up a nylon scrubbing brush with a driver bit on it so it can do all the hard scrubbing and effort for you. Those do a pretty good job of cleaning stuff up. I use one if I need to work on a motor that’s comes in and has a crap ton of grease oil sludge ect that’s hard baked on and Need to clean befor I open them up so Maybe try that with a iron remover. Bet those 2 combined would do some serious work for you. Just make sure it stays saturated wet
@@MotorsportInspired yeah leave the product soak. The way i do i wash the maggs first and rince and spray do acid on and i was my car by hand and finish by a complite rince whit water look like new every time after time attack
Just use iron remover on your wheels
Iron x or iron buster from p&s that’s stuff will come right off👍
Definitely will give it a try, thanks 🙏 for the tip👍
I almost bought these because Hawk 5.0 was great. Glad I saw this No Thank You. Going PFC08 now.
Yea Pfc08 awesome pads have running them as well 👌
IMO when it comes to "racing" material life is secondary to performance. What matters most is consistency and lap times.
I had EBC pads and the performance was lackluster as well as the pad came unadhered from the backing plate halfway through the life span of the pad. I never had that problem with the Hawk pads and the performance gains are significantly different. I have the Hawk Ferro Carbon street pads vs the EBC Red Stuff. Never raced or tracked (spirited canyon driving through Appalachia) but I have seen comparison testing and the Hawk product outperforms EBC. I never experienced the pads that you spoke of so I cannot comment concerning them.
Also noticed that you need cooling for the front rotors. That semi floating CSL rotor design is weird and makes it hard to get air into inner veins to pump out the heat from both rotor surfaces. I see some pad smearing on the discs. Try installing cooling ducts or Vorshlag deflectors. I'm sure it didn't help you that your pads were almost at backing plates as that reduces heat capacity substantially and you probably melted them some. I ran cooling ducts at Laguna (brake heavy track) and brakes held up really well, although that was with brand new dtc70 up front. I need to go back to Laguna once the pads are more worn to test it out. But the CSL rotor is not good at cooling, so you have to force some air in there. Will def improve consumables life, even if not fading.
Hey, I do have cooling ducts guided direct pushing air from where fog lights used to be, have been running this set up like that for past 4 years, including when I was running dtc-60 pads, your right it definitely 👍 does help in terms of brake holding up longer in sessions and extending rotor life as well rotos last at least 25% longer then prior running with ducts, they would start cracking at their 50% rotor life prior with ducts that has reduced significantly so ducts are the way to go for these drilled rotors.
@@MotorsportInspired Oh nice. Just looks like when you were running the pads low, there was not enough heat capacity there and they started overheating and smearing. Did you get a hard motorsport/bimmerworld kit, or did you do diy kit?
Yeah the dust sucks, especially if it rains. I’ve given up.
Damn I wish I would have found this video 4 hours ago!
How do u like the pads?
@@Richfxx They have been fantastic last season. I went with the DTC-60. Experienced absolutely no brake fade, and had good wear. But in urgent braking situations they can bite TOO HARD and cause the wheels to lock up quite easily. I either need to get better or get a little less aggressive pads next season.
@@dunteman_racing how was the brake dust corrosion that’s one of my biggest concerns
@@dunteman_racing i’m looking for a pad that I can drive on the streets like an asshole on track to its full extent sounds like the DCt’s may become dangerous driving on the streets
@@dunteman_racing what car are you running?
I used the DTC60 once and ruined the finish on my wheels too after the dust got wet… never used Hawk again
Yea, since this incident we only run hawk pads in our endurance race car since wheel finish doesn’t matter.
Fcpeuro should be stocking ds1.11 in the next few weeks
I was actually in touch with fcpeuro management all this time in regards to ds1.11 as I did order ds1.11 from them last month but order was canceled, unfortunately they have lost their supplier for ds1.11 pads and they are not going to be offering them for the foreseeable future I was advised 😔 which is a bummer was looking forward to getting them from FcpEuro
@@MotorsportInspired oh I see. That is a bummer. I was in contact with them beginning of Jan when they removed 1.11 pads from the site, so I wanted to know what was up. At that point they were expecting stock end of Feb. :( Your info is more recent.
Yea I literally talked to them about this yesterday, I’m hoping they will eventually bring them back at some point, until then I guess we have to find other options.🤷
Iron remover and scrub with a clay bar. Not sure if it would 100% work but that’s what I would try 🤷🏻♂️ I mean those wheels look pretty F’ed so best of luck to you
Unfortunately tried all of those already helped little but not much, 🤷♂️ fortunately these are track wheels so I don’t really care all that much.
@@MotorsportInspired Hmm, if you have a driver drill maybe pick up a nylon scrubbing brush with a driver bit on it so it can do all the hard scrubbing and effort for you. Those do a pretty good job of cleaning stuff up. I use one if I need to work on a motor that’s comes in and has a crap ton of grease oil sludge ect that’s hard baked on and Need to clean befor I open them up so Maybe try that with a iron remover. Bet those 2 combined would do some serious work for you. Just make sure it stays saturated wet
I wash mine whit acid maggs cleanner
Never heard of it’s called “acid maggs cleaner ” ? does it take off bake on brake dust ?
@@MotorsportInspired yeah leave the product soak. The way i do i wash the maggs first and rince and spray do acid on and i was my car by hand and finish by a complite rince whit water look like new every time after time attack
@@yoyou1150 do you mind sharing where you can buy this stuff because I’m having hard time find it on line ?? Thank 🙏🙏 for your tips an help