I actually teared up seeing the end result. you're so right regarding two artists/craftsmen joining creative forces to build a gorgeous forest implement. I saw how truly touched you were and how grateful you are to have it. you are a sincerely blessed man. God Bless you and yours.
Hi Cody, I have been following your channel since the start of this year and have watched and thumbed up every video of yours I can find. You have inspired me to find or buy and restore old tools some of which belong to my grandfather. I am 15 and live in Australia so finding the products you use to restore tools and to make a timber frame cabin and timber bridges has been challenging yet a great experience which will never forget. You have changed my life for the better Cody and I can't thank you enough. I will never forget you and all you stand for, thank you for all the time you have taken out of you life to make the videos for everyone to watch. I have adopted the use of paint schemes on my tools in recognition of your contribution to my life and I like the black spray paint that you use. It appears to be the gloss black bumper coated from SEM or is that just the camera and is it flat black (charcoal). Thank you so much once again, bless the Wranglerstar family and bless you Cody. Yours sincerely, Paddy
My Grandfather made all his axe and sledge hammer handles out of pecan. I never was able to watch him make the handle before he passed away, but I know that he would hand split trunk cuts and use his drawknife to work it down then sand it. I still have 3 of those he made. Thanks for the videos you make.
Like a kid in a candy store, new tools always give me goose bumps too. Now it is time to put it to work. The best part is the this tool was hand made. Love it!
I use rasps often in making gun stocks- one of my best is a hoof rasp used by farriers. Then the smaller rasp, such as you have, then the 4-in-one, or four-in-hand. And you are right - ready for finish sanding after rasping. Recently I had to severely chastize a friend, who picked up the hoof rasp and proceeded to "file" a piece of steel! I had to tell him that NONE of my woodworking files, chisels, rasps, could EVER touch metal - it will leave bits of metal in the wood, causing rust stains to appear later. Keep up the good work - love the vids!
Your rehandling of axes is truly a work of art. I've tried to rehandle an old axe myself and have some what failed. It really makes me appreciate what you and others do. I hope one day to be able to successfully make and rehandle an axe as well as you do. Thanks.
I find myself mesmerized at all of your videos. the knowledge and peace acquired really is an inspiration to my family and I. thank you for capturing the spirit of the tools and the hard work accompanied by the satisfaction of a job well done. thanks again and looking forward to more videos. God bless! J.D
It is indeed, a beautiful tool and a beautiful collaboration of craftsmen. I'm sure that Troy is as proud of the result as you are. I smiled all the time I watched you finish it and I know you'll smile every time you pick it up. Well done, Sir!!! :)
I would take a hand crafted handle any day over the store bought junk out there and I'm pretty tall too and every time you mention making longer handles for your tools I think back on using my mothers old garden rake I almost had to get on my knees just to use the thing I really enjoy watching the professionalism and passion you put into every aspect of your videos and we really appreciate it so good job and keep it up 👍
Super cool to see someone who loves wood and metal as much as I do. I only wish I had the gifts to build these things, that you have. (And the time...)
Cody I lived in Northern Minnesota in my young adult years . I learned how to use a pickaroon . I always said they need a ax head on it. And then you said the same thing. Now I get to see one . Lucky you . God Bless you . Show us how will this works .
Man do I wish I had one of those last week-end....hard to justify having one as a suburbanite that is not heating with wood. Then if find myself with a "windfall" in my own backyard. Substandard chainsaw (nursing my Dad's old homeowner grade saw) was challenging enough. My back was sure wishing I had one of those Axearoons....beautifully executed handle and video as usual. thanks for sharing
Beautiful job guys. And Cody I want to see it doing great work!! I think the straight handle with slight swell was certainly the best choice. Another wonderful tool indeed brother!!
Hey Cody, another lovely vid. I definitely get most enjoyment and benefit from these vids showing you making and using tools. Please do film yourself using it- Would be nice to see it at work.
Thank you for facilitating the RIGHT spirit in all of you how-to videos. A lot of us do not have, and have never had mentors to teach these things. I have found them legitimately useful, PROFITABLE, and helped me pass more to my children. You are serving and a fisher of men, no matter how blatant the message. THANK YOU.
It pays to go back and understand that the head was new and forged just for you! It looks vintage, and when I saw you were going to take a drill bit to it I almost got sick!!...(I'm the guy that battles a 6 volt 59 IH, and a 24 V 52 Willys...yup I'm that guy)LOL!!
Invest in a carbide tipped drill bit. I would suggest an 1/8 for pilot holes and a 1/4 for pins. You don't want a solid carbide drill bit as they are uber-expensive and BRITTLE! Grainger Industrial Supply has them and their shipping rates do not make a profit out of S&H like some other Companies do. If you live close to one of their distribution centers make your order by phone and have it shipped there and no shipping charge. For decorative purposes BTW you can buy a brass 1/4 tube and a stainless or copper pin that will be a bit larger than the ID of the tube. Using a hacksaw cut a slot down the side of the pin and insert into the hole and then drive the too big pin into the brass to make it nice and tight. Looks good and will never rust like those spring roll pins do and make a mess.
Hello Cody - My father with his axe (they weren't anything special) use to drill a hole at the end of the handle an inch deep. Use some Duct/Gaffer tape and tape around the sides of the end of the axe, so it made a little containment cup area. He then put the axe in a bench vice, so the end of the handle was upwards.. He would then fill it with boiled linseed oil, and let it sit and top it up until the oil had travelled though out the entire handle. The idea was - that the grain of wood would draw the oil in though the center of the wooden handle.
Googled organic linseed oil. Found several distributors of raw or boiled linseed oil. The raw takes a while to dry but no chemicals, worth the wait. Keep up the good work.
As always great job. I either need to make one or go buy one as it will make my life easier when im out getting firewood or helping a friend with thiers. like the fact you did the whole job with simple tools.
Great work, and good call on the gloves when applying BLO. (I know that a lot of us mentioned that on past videos) -- I would still like to see you using some timber tongs for even more force multiplication. You can see a small pair in action here: Snedding - preparing logs with a chainsaw The 12" Husqvarna tongs are even better.
Thanks Cody! Just a suggestion, you should put your anvil on a wood block. If you take a measurement, standing arm down, then make a fist. From your knuckles down to the floor, that's where the top of your anvil should be. Cut your wood block so your anvil is at that spot. I did that at my shop, and the wood block really makes a difference. Hard to explain, if your anvil is good, its like it comes alive. Your hammer strikes will have a different sound and the hammer will have a nice rebound. Anyway, my anvil reacted much differently on wood. You should try it when you have time.
My brother & I use a commercial hookeroon,you are correct,a great tool,I am intrigued by your axeroon,& would like to see it in use. Thank you for doing what you do!
Beautiful Handle and tool nice job! I also pin all my hand tools. I know you like your Boiled linseed oil and so do i but i've been using hot pine pitch and a heating process on my handles which when done it add's grip and protects the wood.
Allback organic linseed oil from sweeden. Mrs. Wranglerstar will like to hear that. I use it all the time it is great. You will have to find the US distributor for it.
Great video and fun to see how tools used to be made. I think I would of liked the handle a little shorter? I liked that one with the curve at the end too.
ABSOLUTELY BEAUTIFUL TOOL.!!! I am always on the look out for these kinds of tools. Someone must doing the same ahead of me. I typically get "Yea I HAD one" or "I sold one last week" Frustrating. We have 5 acres and I'm trying to acquire quality tools, which tend to be old ones. Your channel has helped me a lot. I don't have internet up there so I have to watch a few times to get the idea. I Sooo wish I could find a few things..like an axeroon or even a picaroon and some med sized axes. This trend of Outdoorsman stuff has pricing and availability out of my reach. God Bless. Clyde up on Vancouver Island.
Another lovely handle. Does it say something about me that I could watch these kind of vids all day long? I'm so glad you got the info on modern Boiled Linseed Oil. The drying agents they add are nasty. I've been biting my cheek on that every time you used it bare handed (don't wanna be a Safety Sally). You can use RAW Linseed oil which is widely available. It takes longer to cure but works just as well...maybe better in some applications. I still use Boiled upon occasion but I always use gloves.
I just use food grade nut oil. Nut oils are naturally 'drying oils'. Safe as it gets, cheap, looks ace and protects wood. Peanut oil is my current fave, it has a deep golden colour and it smells awesome.
queef Try flaxseed oil (food grade name for linseed oil). You need lots of polyunsaturated fats to form a good polymer. Peanut will certainly protect wood, but will take forever to form a truly dry film (paint some on steel and see how long it takes). Even raw flaxseed oil will take days to dry at room temp.
Peanut has dried off no problem at all and left a decent sheen tbh, within a day easily, normally within hours. It just takes a few coats and plenty of air movement, or at least it is as such this summer. This peanut oil from my last go is listed as 91.2g / 100ml of fats, of which 14.6g are saturated. That leaves 76.6g / 100ml of [unlisted] unsaturated fats. Somewhere in that 76.6g / 100ml there must be enough poly fats. Thanks for that info, it's good to know which ingredient is needed.
queef Just to clarify, not all polyunsaturated fats have the same polymerization potential. You should look at an oil's overall "iodine value" (number of bonds available for polymerization) to see how good an oil will be at drying. I still suspect that your oil isn't actually drying, just soaking into the wood. If so, it will eventually start to smell rancid. That's why it's not recommended to treat cutting boards with vegetable oil, for example. Anyhow, I'll stop gainsaying. If you're happy with the result, that's all that matters.
Oh - if you are using quite a few roll pins, as I do, then get a set of roll pin punches from MidwayUSA or Brownells. They have a nob on the bottom that just fits the inner diameter, and a shoulder that rides on the outside edge of the pin - saves deforming the end of the roll pin. They have others which have a hole in the end of the punch into which the roll pin fits, to help you start the pin into place.
Real boiled linseed oil is available under the brand name, Lin-Speed, it's used a lot on gun stocks and knives and such. It isn't cheap but it goes a long way, if used according to their instructions. A 2oz bottle is supposed to be plenty for about 7 rifle stocks, I'm picking up my bottle at the PO tomorrow, I have some gunstocks and grips to finish with it. Gabby PS I was hoping you would do a video on how you made the Adz handle, I need one for my adz. :-)
Great video as always Cody, I've learned so much stuff from you and your family, please keep the content coming, I get so excited when I see a new video of yours appear in my subscriptions, because it's always something new I can learn. :D One quick question on the video, I must have missed why you chose the straight handle for this tool over the traditional axe style handles. Wouldn't a traditional axe handle have fit better for the use of picking up and moving small log with the curve at the bottom letting it kind of "hang" in the hand better? I'm asking solely because I don't know.
an absolutely beautiful tool, cody. Though, honestly, when you said "tomahawk" I guess i was thinking a slimmer handle... however, I like the way you did it.
"Proper" Swedish linseed oil is available at: solventfreepaint.com/cleaned_linseed_oil.htm I've been using this mixed with pine tar (50:50) to seal the cedar shakes on my house and tool handles. Using the raw really penetrates but takes a long time to dry. A better solution for first coats if time isn't a factor. Clean up is done with their linseed oil soap so you aren't messing around with nasty chemicals on your brushes. For those looking for some wicked, good paint, try the linseed oil paint. It's 100% solids so the higher cost is offset with the yield. The standard acrylic paints have 40-60% "carrier" that flashes off. Another great feature is if properly applied (I seal with BLO/pine tar), it can be refreshed with nothing more than a quick wipe of more BLO. Don't forget that rags will self-ignite! Mine go into the fire pit after use.
Something you might consider is putting an oil soaked wooden dowel pin inside the steel roll pin to keep dirt and moisture out of the pin and center of the handle.
I actually teared up seeing the end result. you're so right regarding two artists/craftsmen joining creative forces to build a gorgeous forest implement. I saw how truly touched you were and how grateful you are to have it. you are a sincerely blessed man. God Bless you and yours.
Hi Cody, I have been following your channel since the start of this year and have watched and thumbed up every video of yours I can find. You have inspired me to find or buy and restore old tools some of which belong to my grandfather. I am 15 and live in Australia so finding the products you use to restore tools and to make a timber frame cabin and timber bridges has been challenging yet a great experience which will never forget. You have changed my life for the better Cody and I can't thank you enough. I will never forget you and all you stand for, thank you for all the time you have taken out of you life to make the videos for everyone to watch. I have adopted the use of paint schemes on my tools in recognition of your contribution to my life and I like the black spray paint that you use. It appears to be the gloss black bumper coated from SEM or is that just the camera and is it flat black (charcoal). Thank you so much once again, bless the Wranglerstar family and bless you Cody.
Yours sincerely, Paddy
This brings back fond memories of growing up in my Grandpa's shop watching him make his own tools. Thank you.
My Grandfather made all his axe and sledge hammer handles out of pecan. I never was able to watch him make the handle before he passed away, but I know that he would hand split trunk cuts and use his drawknife to work it down then sand it. I still have 3 of those he made.
Thanks for the videos you make.
Like a kid in a candy store, new tools always give me goose bumps too. Now it is time to put it to work. The best part is the this tool was hand made. Love it!
I use rasps often in making gun stocks- one of my best is a hoof rasp used by farriers. Then the smaller rasp, such as you have, then the 4-in-one, or four-in-hand. And you are right - ready for finish sanding after rasping. Recently I had to severely chastize a friend, who picked up the hoof rasp and proceeded to "file" a piece of steel! I had to tell him that NONE of my woodworking files, chisels, rasps, could EVER touch metal - it will leave bits of metal in the wood, causing rust stains to appear later. Keep up the good work - love the vids!
You look happier after this open-house event. Blessed is the key word I think. Love is all around.
Your rehandling of axes is truly a work of art. I've tried to rehandle an old axe myself and have some what failed. It really makes me appreciate what you and others do. I hope one day to be able to successfully make and rehandle an axe as well as you do. Thanks.
I think this might be my favourite handle/tool restoration you've done; I'm just loving this tool and the handle suits it so perfectly!
I find myself mesmerized at all of your videos. the knowledge and peace acquired really is an inspiration to my family and I. thank you for capturing the spirit of the tools and the hard work accompanied by the satisfaction of a job well done. thanks again and looking forward to more videos. God bless! J.D
Thank you Justin
It is indeed, a beautiful tool and a beautiful collaboration of craftsmen. I'm sure that Troy is as proud of the result as you are. I smiled all the time I watched you finish it and I know you'll smile every time you pick it up. Well done, Sir!!! :)
I would take a hand crafted handle any day over the store bought junk out there and I'm pretty tall too and every time you mention making longer handles for your tools I think back on using my mothers old garden rake I almost had to get on my knees just to use the thing I really enjoy watching the professionalism and passion you put into every aspect of your videos and we really appreciate it so good job and keep it up 👍
You can really see how much you cherish your work that’s awesome buddy you have a great Channel
Super cool to see someone who loves wood and metal as much as I do. I only wish I had the gifts to build these things, that you have. (And the time...)
Excellent video. Thank you for allowing us into your shop!
Cody I lived in Northern Minnesota in my young adult years . I learned how to use a pickaroon . I always said they need a ax head on it. And then you said the same thing. Now I get to see one . Lucky you . God Bless you . Show us how will this works .
Cody, the axearoon is beautiful; can't wait for a video of it being put through its paces. Hello from Autumn and Allen!
Man do I wish I had one of those last week-end....hard to justify having one as a suburbanite that is not heating with wood. Then if find myself with a "windfall" in my own backyard. Substandard chainsaw (nursing my Dad's old homeowner grade saw) was challenging enough. My back was sure wishing I had one of those Axearoons....beautifully executed handle and video as usual. thanks for sharing
Hi Cody I just wanted to mention the audio for these videos was great clean and crisp!
I’ve really become a fan of your videos the last few months. Even your older videos are produced very well. I have a lot of entertainment ahead😀.
That handle did come out looking good, nice work! And YES I would like to see it in action.
Beautiful job guys. And Cody I want to see it doing great work!! I think the straight handle with slight swell was certainly the best choice. Another wonderful tool indeed brother!!
Beautiful tool, well done to both makers.
Hey Cody, another lovely vid.
I definitely get most enjoyment and benefit from these vids showing you making and using tools. Please do film yourself using it- Would be nice to see it at work.
Thank you for facilitating the RIGHT spirit in all of you how-to videos. A lot of us do not have, and have never had mentors to teach these things. I have found them legitimately useful, PROFITABLE, and helped me pass more to my children. You are serving and a fisher of men, no matter how blatant the message. THANK YOU.
What a great finished tool. Looking forward to seeing it in action. (Yes did get part 2 to work. :) ) Have a great day.
It pays to go back and understand that the head was new and forged just for you! It looks vintage, and when I saw you were going to take a drill bit to it I almost got sick!!...(I'm the guy that battles a 6 volt 59 IH, and a 24 V 52 Willys...yup I'm that guy)LOL!!
Great vid! Too funny seeing jack swatting the fly at the end.
Invest in a carbide tipped drill bit. I would suggest an 1/8 for pilot holes and a 1/4 for pins. You don't want a solid carbide drill bit as they are uber-expensive and BRITTLE! Grainger Industrial Supply has them and their shipping rates do not make a profit out of S&H like some other Companies do. If you live close to one of their distribution centers make your order by phone and have it shipped there and no shipping charge.
For decorative purposes BTW you can buy a brass 1/4 tube and a stainless or copper pin that will be a bit larger than the ID of the tube. Using a hacksaw cut a slot down the side of the pin and insert into the hole and then drive the too big pin into the brass to make it nice and tight. Looks good and will never rust like those spring roll pins do and make a mess.
Excellent job to you and Troy both. Nice tool!
Hello Cody -
My father with his axe (they weren't anything special) use to drill a hole at the end of the handle an inch deep. Use some Duct/Gaffer tape and tape around the sides of the end of the axe, so it made a little containment cup area. He then put the axe in a bench vice, so the end of the handle was upwards.. He would then fill it with boiled linseed oil, and let it sit and top it up until the oil had travelled though out the entire handle.
The idea was - that the grain of wood would draw the oil in though the center of the wooden handle.
Beautiful craftsmanship
You are such a craftsman, That is one sweet tool. that is such a great Idea.
Lovely Axearoon, you did Troy proud.
Googled organic linseed oil. Found several distributors of raw or boiled linseed oil. The raw takes a while to dry but no chemicals, worth the wait. Keep up the good work.
Great job Cody looks great as usual.
As always great job. I either need to make one or go buy one as it will make my life easier when im out getting firewood or helping a friend with thiers. like the fact you did the whole job with simple tools.
Great work, and good call on the gloves when applying BLO. (I know that a lot of us mentioned that on past videos) -- I would still like to see you using some timber tongs for even more force multiplication. You can see a small pair in action here: Snedding - preparing logs with a chainsaw
The 12" Husqvarna tongs are even better.
Looks awesome!! Perfect handle for the tool.
Oh yeah.... Can definitely tell you were right in your element doing this.. Very nice piece.
Thanks Cody! Just a suggestion, you should put your anvil on a wood block. If you take a measurement, standing arm down, then make a fist. From your knuckles down to the floor, that's where the top of your anvil should be. Cut your wood block so your anvil is at that spot. I did that at my shop, and the wood block really makes a difference. Hard to explain, if your anvil is good, its like it comes alive. Your hammer strikes will have a different sound and the hammer will have a nice rebound. Anyway, my anvil reacted much differently on wood. You should try it when you have time.
Absolutely beautiful work
Awesome job on the handle, now lets see it in use.
Let's see some Axaroon action footage. I want to see it working. Thanks for all the great videos.
Beautiful tool, would love to see it in action. Great work as usual.
Beautiful craftsmanship!
Nice final design. Hope it works well for you. good video.
My brother & I use a commercial hookeroon,you are correct,a great tool,I am intrigued by your axeroon,& would like to see it in use. Thank you for doing what you do!
Thats some high quality craftsmanship...
Perfect and beautiful. I can't wait to see it In use
Beautiful Handle and tool nice job! I also pin all my hand tools. I know you like your Boiled linseed oil and so do i but i've been using hot pine pitch and a heating process on my handles which when done it add's grip and protects the wood.
What a beautiful result.
Awe, I was looking forward to seeing you try it out. That's a fine looking tool!
I would love to see a video of the axearoon in use soon.
A work of art right there....well done sir.
Nice job. And Jack in the background killing flies. Lol
Great video as always. Love the little tips you give as you make the videos.
These videos are always the best!
Allback organic linseed oil from sweeden. Mrs. Wranglerstar will like to hear that. I use it all the time it is great. You will have to find the US distributor for it.
Great video and fun to see how tools used to be made. I think I would of liked the handle a little shorter? I liked that one with the curve at the end too.
ABSOLUTELY BEAUTIFUL TOOL.!!! I am always on the look out for these kinds of tools. Someone must doing the same ahead of me. I typically get "Yea I HAD one" or "I sold one last week" Frustrating. We have 5 acres and I'm trying to acquire quality tools, which tend to be old ones. Your channel has helped me a lot. I don't have internet up there so I have to watch a few times to get the idea. I Sooo wish I could find a few things..like an axeroon or even a picaroon and some med sized axes. This trend of Outdoorsman stuff has pricing and availability out of my reach.
God Bless.
Clyde up on Vancouver Island.
Another lovely handle. Does it say something about me that I could watch these kind of vids all day long?
I'm so glad you got the info on modern Boiled Linseed Oil. The drying agents they add are nasty. I've been biting my cheek on that every time you used it bare handed (don't wanna be a Safety Sally). You can use RAW Linseed oil which is widely available. It takes longer to cure but works just as well...maybe better in some applications. I still use Boiled upon occasion but I always use gloves.
I just use food grade nut oil. Nut oils are naturally 'drying oils'. Safe as it gets, cheap, looks ace and protects wood. Peanut oil is my current fave, it has a deep golden colour and it smells awesome.
queef Try flaxseed oil (food grade name for linseed oil). You need lots of polyunsaturated fats to form a good polymer. Peanut will certainly protect wood, but will take forever to form a truly dry film (paint some on steel and see how long it takes). Even raw flaxseed oil will take days to dry at room temp.
Peanut has dried off no problem at all and left a decent sheen tbh, within a day easily, normally within hours. It just takes a few coats and plenty of air movement, or at least it is as such this summer.
This peanut oil from my last go is listed as 91.2g / 100ml of fats, of which 14.6g are saturated. That leaves 76.6g / 100ml of [unlisted] unsaturated fats. Somewhere in that 76.6g / 100ml there must be enough poly fats.
Thanks for that info, it's good to know which ingredient is needed.
queef
Just to clarify, not all polyunsaturated fats have the same polymerization potential. You should look at an oil's overall "iodine value" (number of bonds available for polymerization) to see how good an oil will be at drying.
I still suspect that your oil isn't actually drying, just soaking into the wood. If so, it will eventually start to smell rancid. That's why it's not recommended to treat cutting boards with vegetable oil, for example.
Anyhow, I'll stop gainsaying. If you're happy with the result, that's all that matters.
Love the video mate, in the south west of England we call hookeroons "sappies"
Great craftsmanship man.
Love the look. Good job on handle. How about a video on how to make a makers mark. We love your channel..
Wow what a true beautiful tool.
Cody, you were beginning to sound like Bob Ross when you were setting the roll pin. Haha. Keep up the great work.
Awesome axeroon! Great job to both craftsman on this one now I'll try to forge one myself I feel left out
awesome job, can't wait to see it in action
Awesome job Cody
Very nice Axearoon
I share your passion for these kind of things.
Great job Cody!
Oh - if you are using quite a few roll pins, as I do, then get a set of roll pin punches from MidwayUSA or Brownells. They have a nob on the bottom that just fits the inner diameter, and a shoulder that rides on the outside edge of the pin - saves deforming the end of the roll pin. They have others which have a hole in the end of the punch into which the roll pin fits, to help you start the pin into place.
Man.....definitely a work of art..
Nicely done to the both of you.
Another great video! Would love to see it in action, but I'm sure we will just as part of another video.
Keep hitting them out of the park WS.
Rogue tools + axaroon concept = win
Great job. Looks great. I would like to hear or see how it performs. Thanks for your videos.
It is beautiful from top to bottom!
Turned out very nice.
Fantastic addition to the collection... :o)
Real boiled linseed oil is available under the brand name,
Lin-Speed, it's used a lot on gun stocks and knives and such.
It isn't cheap but it goes a long way, if used according to their instructions. A 2oz bottle is supposed to be plenty for about 7 rifle stocks, I'm picking up my bottle at the PO tomorrow, I have some gunstocks and grips to finish with it.
Gabby
PS I was hoping you would do a video on how you made the Adz handle, I need one for my adz. :-)
Beautiful tool. Would be interesting to see it "in action"!
I would suggest for any wood finish, it's best to use double boiled linseed oil as it will actually dry to a hard finish and is sand able.
Great video as always Cody,
I've learned so much stuff from you and your family, please keep the content coming, I get so excited when I see a new video of yours appear in my subscriptions, because it's always something new I can learn. :D
One quick question on the video, I must have missed why you chose the straight handle for this tool over the traditional axe style handles. Wouldn't a traditional axe handle have fit better for the use of picking up and moving small log with the curve at the bottom letting it kind of "hang" in the hand better?
I'm asking solely because I don't know.
Double boiled linseed oil can be found at any ship chandlery store as it is used extensively in ship building. (Wood)
Very nice. Would love to see it in action!
Thank you Cody.
an absolutely beautiful tool, cody. Though, honestly, when you said "tomahawk" I guess i was thinking a slimmer handle... however, I like the way you did it.
Good stuff Cody!
That turned out real nice. Great job!! Can't wait to see it at work:-)
"Proper" Swedish linseed oil is available at: solventfreepaint.com/cleaned_linseed_oil.htm
I've been using this mixed with pine tar (50:50) to seal the cedar shakes on my house and tool handles. Using the raw really penetrates but takes a long time to dry. A better solution for first coats if time isn't a factor. Clean up is done with their linseed oil soap so you aren't messing around with nasty chemicals on your brushes.
For those looking for some wicked, good paint, try the linseed oil paint. It's 100% solids so the higher cost is offset with the yield. The standard acrylic paints have 40-60% "carrier" that flashes off. Another great feature is if properly applied (I seal with BLO/pine tar), it can be refreshed with nothing more than a quick wipe of more BLO.
Don't forget that rags will self-ignite! Mine go into the fire pit after use.
Let see it in use! Love the Tool!
Great video Cody.
Also doubles as a tactical tomahawk for the zombie apocalypse. ...nice
What ever happened with the Bahco Axe? I see it in the background.
i like that golf ball rasp handle
Something you might consider is putting an oil soaked wooden dowel pin inside the steel roll pin to keep dirt and moisture out of the pin and center of the handle.
Clickable link to the end videos? UA-cam really needs to sort out their mobile app.
Chris Hession A Belt For Jack
Pickaroon - Mans Best Friend