I prefer the hand down version for MGBs. Much easier and I use the Purolator PL20195 and do prefill it with VR1 20W-50, helps build the pressure sooner. BTW, prefilling isn't bad for the engine, new engine oil from reputable producers is already filtered clean at the factory. It's a myth that the oil has contaminates.
Outstanding video. I think you forgot to drain the oil cool up front. I unbolt the 4 mounting 7/16 bolts on the oil cooler and hang it from the hood lock assembly so it drain into the oil pan prior to draining the oil pan.
Make sure if you do that to pull the wire off the coil and spin the engine a few extra seconds. Otherwise there's a void to fill by the oil pump on startup.
What's your take on what type of oil to use on these classic British cars? The formulation for standard and racing oils like the Valvoline VR1 you used has changed over 40 years. I've read posts where the zinc content mimics what we used to buy. Oils like Castrol Classic with formulations like that are available but a bit pricier. I've used all types/blends over the decades on my 76B, no apparent issues. So far.
Oh boy... can of worms here. Short answer, I use something like a VR1 for other people's cars because I don't want the argument and it's not hurting anything. Long answer... having a certain percentage of zinc in oil is something like having a certain percentage of asbestos in your home insulation. It's a great insulator, and was phased out for health and environmental reasons... but that doesn't mean the new stuff isn't as good or that it's necessary for old houses... and it doesn't mean new oil is bad for flat tappet camshafts without some magic additive. First off, the zinc hasn't just been removed... it's been replaced with other technology that does the same thing and has done a good job of it for decades. (Yes I know there is still some zinc in new oil). Next point; the zinc additives today aren't the same as ones from years past, so the concentrations don't need to be the same. Joe Enthusiast isn't qualified to say how many parts per million of whatever additive is necessary, so be wary of internet research. Importantly, a lot of tests are run on new oils, and they need to be backwards compatible. Nearly all evidence that says engines are blowing up is anecdotal... so it's a "my friend the engine builder says this" vs testing in a lab. Science has to have repeatable processes and results, and saying oil needs higher zinc for old engines simply doesn't follow any testing or science. Now, it is important to note that some testing has been done, and it's been found that for high valve spring pressures, coupled with flat tappet cams, etc... some scuffing does occur. The reality though is that the engines that have the level of valve spring pressures we're taking about are race engines, or at least heavily modified street rod engines. A stock TR6 or Austin Healey simply does not need special oil. For my own fleet, I've only ever used oil off the shelf (actually I buy by the 5 gallon pail these days). My cars don't burn oil, I drive through multiple states, and I commute to work with the classics in the nice weather. We're talking 10 to 15 thousand miles annually in these. I've had the chance to check a cam or two while the engine was out for a clutch or replacing a timing chain. They were absolutely fine. Finally... what about all the big name companies that are producing specialty oils? Well... follow the money. It's not necessary to have special oil, but then again neither are a lot of things you can buy from an infomercial. The fact that something is available at a store doesn't make it necessary. Specialty oils are a multi billion dollar industry, so you can bet everyone wants a piece. So yeah... I use regular oil and have never had a problem. If I'm changing your oil, then I'll most likely use VR1.
Good coverage of the basics. What are your thoughts on a engine flush via the oil before adding the new oil. Not at every oil change obviously, but every few years? Love your lift. Man that would be handy.
It couldn't hurt, but a lot of that stuff isnt necessary, and sone is just plain snake oil. Regular oil changes will do more help than flushing though. For an unknown car, I'd say go for it, and then just change it frequently afterwards.
I prefer the hand down version for MGBs. Much easier and I use the Purolator PL20195 and do prefill it with VR1 20W-50, helps build the pressure sooner. BTW, prefilling isn't bad for the engine, new engine oil from reputable producers is already filtered clean at the factory. It's a myth that the oil has contaminates.
All good points! Thank you for the comment.
Outstanding video.
I think you forgot to drain the oil cool up front. I unbolt the 4 mounting 7/16 bolts on the oil cooler and hang it from the hood lock assembly so it drain into the oil pan prior to draining the oil pan.
Make sure if you do that to pull the wire off the coil and spin the engine a few extra seconds. Otherwise there's a void to fill by the oil pump on startup.
What's your take on what type of oil to use on these classic British cars? The formulation for standard and racing oils like the Valvoline VR1 you used has changed over 40 years. I've read posts where the zinc content mimics what we used to buy. Oils like Castrol Classic with formulations like that are available but a bit pricier. I've used all types/blends over the decades on my 76B, no apparent issues. So far.
Oh boy... can of worms here. Short answer, I use something like a VR1 for other people's cars because I don't want the argument and it's not hurting anything. Long answer... having a certain percentage of zinc in oil is something like having a certain percentage of asbestos in your home insulation. It's a great insulator, and was phased out for health and environmental reasons... but that doesn't mean the new stuff isn't as good or that it's necessary for old houses... and it doesn't mean new oil is bad for flat tappet camshafts without some magic additive.
First off, the zinc hasn't just been removed... it's been replaced with other technology that does the same thing and has done a good job of it for decades. (Yes I know there is still some zinc in new oil). Next point; the zinc additives today aren't the same as ones from years past, so the concentrations don't need to be the same. Joe Enthusiast isn't qualified to say how many parts per million of whatever additive is necessary, so be wary of internet research. Importantly, a lot of tests are run on new oils, and they need to be backwards compatible. Nearly all evidence that says engines are blowing up is anecdotal... so it's a "my friend the engine builder says this" vs testing in a lab. Science has to have repeatable processes and results, and saying oil needs higher zinc for old engines simply doesn't follow any testing or science.
Now, it is important to note that some testing has been done, and it's been found that for high valve spring pressures, coupled with flat tappet cams, etc... some scuffing does occur. The reality though is that the engines that have the level of valve spring pressures we're taking about are race engines, or at least heavily modified street rod engines. A stock TR6 or Austin Healey simply does not need special oil. For my own fleet, I've only ever used oil off the shelf (actually I buy by the 5 gallon pail these days). My cars don't burn oil, I drive through multiple states, and I commute to work with the classics in the nice weather. We're talking 10 to 15 thousand miles annually in these. I've had the chance to check a cam or two while the engine was out for a clutch or replacing a timing chain. They were absolutely fine.
Finally... what about all the big name companies that are producing specialty oils? Well... follow the money. It's not necessary to have special oil, but then again neither are a lot of things you can buy from an infomercial. The fact that something is available at a store doesn't make it necessary. Specialty oils are a multi billion dollar industry, so you can bet everyone wants a piece.
So yeah... I use regular oil and have never had a problem. If I'm changing your oil, then I'll most likely use VR1.
@@midwestmotoring You covered a lot of ground there, up-front and clear. Thnx.
Good coverage of the basics. What are your thoughts on a engine flush via the oil before adding the new oil. Not at every oil change obviously, but every few years? Love your lift. Man that would be handy.
It couldn't hurt, but a lot of that stuff isnt necessary, and sone is just plain snake oil. Regular oil changes will do more help than flushing though. For an unknown car, I'd say go for it, and then just change it frequently afterwards.