Відео

Great job and great info looking forward to see more of your great work. Keep them coming.

Nice work! Bet you're glad to be done with the welding. LoL. I just started a TIG welding class for automotive sheet metal. Tougher than it looks, but a skill needed at some point to keep my Jaguar on the road, particularly in Iowa where they use road salts in the winter. Cheers.

Like how you tackled the shock tower

I guarantee this guy received straight As in college if he took technical writing courses. To speak this coherently, he must first know how to write coherently. Top of the tops tutorial as always. Thank you.

There is no mechanic take your pose unless he is a gay or cold

The seesii is powerful takes off bolts that I could not take off with a breaker bar and a hammer

Nice work! Great idea using two engine stands as a rotisserie.

Great progress

Noticed your Distributor machine. My son Brian @ BMC-British also collects electronic diagnosis equipment. Recently, I purchased a 2 gas SUN analyzer.. Getting ready to test them out ...

Actually, it is the tyres, that stop the car.... LOL

I have not done; 'Waumandee Time Trials! However, I did the the Afton Alps hill colimb about 8 times.. the last being in 2011. It did NOT end well for me or my '77 MGB...

Great soundtrack. Goodol CAD...cardboard aided design. Nice work. Cheers.

I could be wrong, but just because an impact has 'X' torque rating- doesn't mean the nut will be that tight on the bolt? I imagine after a certain tightness its just eating into the threads? Which would just make taking it off easier. 1/2 " Grade 8 bolts can snap at like 120 ft/lbs of pressure.

Great video

Did hear you correct, when removing the top cover to have the car in gear? Thankyou

Best ever video,Thank You

Very informative. Thanks. Do the LED bulbs draw less current?

At Brasil we have anhydrous alcohol, our premium Gasoline has 25% of it and the gas in total has at least 102 octanes. The common gasoline is at max 35% anhydrous and has 87 Ron. We also have E100 :)

Hello. Nice, clean video. Thank you. Can you tell me the HP and model and where to purchase the motor and the variable speed unit? Looks to be a 110V. Thanks.

Hi this is a great video thanks. At the beginning you mentioned other reasons, tired rubber fixing’s etc.. Do you have the other reasons videoed by any chance. my gear lever is very loose. Much appreciated Richie

I'm mapping out a 300 mile back road trip on CA33 to San Luis Obispo. Took a break and Matt's "Spares you should have" video (which I haven't viewed in over a year), popped into my feed. Weird. Probably Re-routing to the 101 thru Ventura. Maybe pick up a Marvel Mystery oil for good measure.

Thank you for an excellent video and explanation om the ignition system. Will be using it to get my '73 TR6 running again. Just had a valve job on it and somewhere along the way I messed up the timing. Agan excellent video.

When I put the measuring device against the carb it practically stalled the engine? The float went straight to the height of the gauge. Any suggestions please

Thank You for all this help! Question. Can ypu explain a bit more the seal/bushing on the butterfly shaft. On my 175 2SE smog carb there are two seals. Some parts you buy say you need to ream the bore to fit the new seal. My original car with 36k looks to have a metal ring holding the rubber seal in place. I am afraid to pop them out. The shaft is in very good shape. New seals would be great. Thanks for any help!

Thanks for the reply! Interesting point is that PN 866-030 o ring only reports to 1962-1973 OD models and is not shown in many manuals. I have a Black label 1959 and I'm not sure if there is one present but I do know it leaks into lever compartment. Also noticed that others gearboxes seem to have this same issue with oil leaking out of the Solenoid.

Hi mate thanks for the video what about the back where the trailer Plug ín

Don't Forget ! the O ring for the Solenoid operating lever shaft 👍

Since I've poked ,cut,drilled,hammered and grinded myself I knew what tool I needed thanx...

A video, definitely made for brits

Thank you, I didn’t know they made brake upgrades for the earlier Healey’s

Great video as always!....love that surprise brew find!

Awsome video helped me alot

The TR6 is Automobile Royalty. Just gorgeous. Hello from England 🇬🇧.

I have rebuilt the bypass valve on 73 TR6 with new diaphragms using the correct gasket with the small bypass in the gasket, trouble is the front carb is pulling too much air/fuel past the bypass valve and I am not able to sync the carbs, in fact I can close off the rear carb throat and car will continue to idle on the front carb alone. I have eliminated the other component, rebuilt carbs, new throttle shafts, bushings and plates, and if I do block off the bypass valve on the carb I am having an issue with I can then sync the carbs and closing off the other carb will indeed cause the car to die. Not sure what is causing so much air/fuel to be allowed thru. The bypass valve is fully closed, has the adjustable screw so air/fuel should not be getting thru, the face of the bypass valve that goes against the carb is not completely flush in the center, I suppose it could be allowing extra air/fuel past the gasket. The carbs have been rebuilt. I've run out of what could be the cause, hate to just block it off, I suppose I could use the gasket that Moss says for "external" vacuum ports, which does not have the small passage in the gasket. Any suggestions appreciated.

Magic eraser will clean your handles

Thanks for the speedy reply. I have a 3-synchro box from the mid sixties and my laygear doesn't have the rollers, just what appear to be 2 bronze-lined steel sleeve bushings. I thought my finger was the only thing damaged, when it found its way between the laygear and my hammer! However, it seems that I did, in fact, damage the bushing, as evidenced by an inability to re-insert the layshaft. I managed to get my rotary tool down through the bushing far enough to grind the offending burr off the inner end of it, until my layshaft could fit comfortably. A club member offered me the use of his 20-ton press to push the bushings out, but it sounds like you would advise against force at this stage. The reason I wanted to replace the bushings in the first place is that there appear to be rings of scorching in the bronze layer. Perhaps, that is attributable to a bad layshaft, rather than a bad bushing causing the wear on the layshaft. I have a new layshaft, so I guess that is all that I will be replacing. By the way, I really enjoyed your video on rebuilding the Spitfire's gearbox. It taught me a lot about this, my fist transmission tear-down. I found out that my Spitfire Mk2 is mated to the engine and transmission from a Herald. Thanks, again, Mark

My question is about the lay gear. How does one remove the bushings, for replacement? I tried to "drift" them out, as stated in the workshop manual, but they will not budge. Thanks.

This is a really great video! I own a TR6 and an Alfa spider. On the TR6, I have a new brake system ready to go, except calipers. I'm going with EBC 'greenstuff' pads. My current brakes seem fine. I've owned the car for 9 years now, and it still has the original owner's brakes on- and stops the same pretty much. Everything is fine UNTIL that quick traffic stop takes place; then one front wheel locks up. I'm hoping it's not the caliper. During covid, I took uncle sam's stimulus check and bought some Willwood brake calipers for the Alfa, along with slotted/drilled rotors. Boy, were the guys on the forums irritated that I would do such a thing! "Just get better pads and new rotors, you will be just as happy!" was the common sentiment. I ended up saying that I did it because I could, and wanted to, and it's my car. And, they are partially right- the Alfa stops better, much like you describe yours, with no brake fade unlike the newish ceramic pads that I originally had. I like them. They do not 'pull my face off' when braking hard, but they were worth the expense for me! The only thing that I would do differently is to get solid rotors. The drilled rotors make a noise similiar to cards in the spokes on a bicycle LOL. Solid would have been just fine, although less bling.

Nice work! I agree with your comment about bleeding, but not hard to remove them and invert to get out trapped air. Have you considered the BJ8 rotors? They should fit just fine. I know that 0.5” doesn’t sound like alot but quite a bit meatier than the BT7. Especially if they have been turned.

Great review. That looked like a lot of fun. Judging by the short sleeves it was a summer event. Do you have a link for more information? Thanks. And yes, my Jag would love an upgrade to vented rotors up front...some day.

Fun and informative watch to start my Sunday. Thanks!

Thx for another great video. I noticed you replaced the rubber flex lines with rubber but without the steel braided sheathing. Any particular reason you didn’t go with the steel braided flex hoses.

Great video!

Good info, they do offer the kit for the TR6 as well. Where more options available in the past? Seems like if the cars were raced that would have give manufactures more incentive to produce performance calipers and rotors. With the cost three times stock calipers but then not too overly outrageous if one is going to replace them anyway. Thanks

My old Healy 100-6 was purchased for 500$ in 1970 sold in 72 for 500$ what a business man I was.

That's basically the shape my frame was in, minus the patch jobs. I cut out about 16" along the bottom inner rails to remove the rust you show at the end. Once those rails were opened up I could see the top and sides were still really solid. The Ratco frame is really nice, but at nearly $10k delivered and they usually still need some adjusting to work with a given body, it's worth fixing an otherwise good frame like this.

This series of videos you did with lake was amazingly helpful to me. My old tractor has what's basically an unsynchronized 3 speed manual with straight cut gears that drives the wheels directly and it calls for sae30 non detergent in it and I couldn't understand why it called for that over gear oil since theres no yellow metals in it. It seems that straight cut gears experience forces similar to flat tappet on a camshaft and that's why they need the antiwear package that I guess older gear oils didn't provide. I've now switched to 75w90 valvoline synpower since it has a nice antiwear package and is gl5 plus mt-1 rated

Rimmer has an adapter kit that bolts right up !

Thanks buddy

Following Along!