Lake Speed Jr. Talks GL4, fuel, and more: Part 3 of 3
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- Опубліковано 13 вер 2024
- APOLOGIES FOR THE SOUND QUALITY WITH THE FURNACE RUNNING! WE'RE INVESTING IN NEW MICROPHONES GOING FORWARD.
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We organized an interview with the Motor Oil Geek. Specifically, we talked to Lake Speed Jr from Total Seal Piston Rings (www.totalseal.com), a lubrication expert who understands our cars, their specific needs, and--importantly--the chemistry behind the oil we pour into the crankcase! Check out his UA-cam channel too!
In the 3rd and final part of our interview, we talk GL4 vs GL5 gear oils, synchronizers, and how the additive packages work in various applications. Whether you have a classic Mini or a Triumph TR6 with an overdrive, this video should interest you! We touch on lubricants for gearboxes and differentials, and what causes oils to break down in your engine.
Those sessions with the guy and yourself are so informative keep them coming cause it’s so much important information
Thank you! Will do... possibly even with better sound quality!
Lake you did a masterful job on fuel dilution A huge issue that is rarely properly discussed. You touch on the habit of how deadly a mid storage fire up is for the oil It may be noted that if you start the engine you should run it a minimum of 180 f engine temp Well done on the fuel dilution another good example is an engine that runs on Alcohol/Nitro and how the oil starts at SAE70 and after 10 seconds( warm up, burnout ,and run and the viscosity is closer to 30wt. Ever notice how used nitro oil is milky! Good job overall well done
Yes, but that is NOT 180 f on just the coolant gauge, it is 180f saturated ENGINE temp (oil temp)
@@tjm3900 good point! Basically, if you're not going to go for a drive, just leave the car alone. It'll be just fine.
@@tjm3900 Most people can only measure the coolant temp. Fr the novice its a reasonable number. True engine temp harmony is not reached until all fluids are the optimal temp. Ask Lake how important this was on a NASCAR engine
Lots and lots of information.I watched all these videos with you and that brainiac and it’s all super interesting. Thanks
Interestingly, he's got a recent video out where he was talking to a PHD in the subject, so apparently there are folks even more knowledgeable on the subject out there! Glad to still be helpful!
Thanks
Thank you very much! Your support is very much appreciated!
@@midwestmotoring All good mate, a good video with great people talking about good facts and experiences.
This helps keep the hobby going with confidence 👍🏻
Lake, if and when you come to Australia I will be there to LISTEN to your experience and testing FACTS.
We need you here to help teach us how important oil sampling is a I believe it should be mandatory for our emergency response vehicles to determine engine life.
I try and push it but we have no support and we lack small oil sampling companies like you have..
He certainly is a wealth of knowledge! Check out his UA-cam channel, which you can find by a search for the "Motor Oil Geek."
Thank you ! Lots of good advice and some myths exploded. Despite what the manual says, gear oil or even Non Detergent motor oil is not optimal for our manual transmissions.
One thought. According to the 'Driven' oil website, considering the materials of our engine and the clearances, a 20w-50 would be too high viscosity. Do you think that weight oil was originally specified with the expectation that it would shear down in use ? Older oils were more susceptible to shear in those days ?
I have noticed lower oil temps with xxw-40 oil. Not that oil temps ever get excessive.
That might have something to do with it for sure. I know some people who use 10w40 in their Triumphs with no issues, and Lake has a video out talking about how it's possible to increase friction and reduce wear... so maybe the goal has changed along with engine design? Anyway, the best thing to do is to try it and test it. That's how you'll know what's going on inside!
Lake, I have for awhile now have been putting a small amount of two stroke oil in the unleaded premium fuel I keep in a steel jerrycan. I have found that the fuel lines (rubber) don’t give me any trouble and the Honda four stroke brush cutter carburettor doesn’t play up any more. The mix is small like 150 milliliters to 18 litres of fuel. So no smoke.
The rubber diaphragm is still working fine and I have no flat spots whatsoever when I throttle the engine.
I know it’s a long shot but I would like to know if you think that a little two stroke oil is good through testing on the engine dyno and see if there’s any gains on the wearing of the Top compression ring on a four stroke engine.
Please keep these videos coming. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Lake doesn't monitor the comments on Midwest Motoring's channel, but you can check out his by searching for the "Motor Oil Geek." Careful--it's a rabbit hole! I would say for my own advice that the first thing to do is to test the wear. Grab a sample, and send it to Lake at Speed Diagnostix for testing. You can also try a tank without the 2-stroke oil and do back to back tests. That should give you some data on what's going on as far as ring wear, fuel dilution, etc. If the carb isn't playing up any more, but it used to be, then that might be a win right there.
I'll add that, like a traditional oil additive that gets poured into the crank case, your results may be different if you use fuel from a different source. Hope that helps, and glad to see the video is garnering so much interest!
@@midwestmotoring Thanks for the reply, I get carried away with ideas but this one thing I do works for small carbureted engines.
I thought you may have known him well and given him this suggestion but he is a busy man.
I will go to his channel 👍🏻
Just turn the thermostat down while filming... 😎
A good idea in hindsight. I also could have just turned on a space heater nearby. At least I remembered to stop the pendulum on the ticking clock!
Thank you for your great videos! This may be out of the subject, but what is the best oil to use in the dashpot for Zenith Stromberg?
The manual specifies engine oil. 20w50 or straight 30w will be just fine.
Should motor oils used as gearbox oils be straight grade or multigrade? Is a modern API SP engine oil appropriate for manual gearboxes?
Generally speaking use a mono-grade, but some manufacturers (notably Land Rover) used to specify multi-grade engine oil in their gearboxes. Generally something meeting motorcycle categories JASO MA or MA2 motor would be ideal, as this must also meet API SJ, SL, SM, SN, or SP whilst also passing additional shear stability and friction tests to enable the synchronisers to work. Motorcycles share engine oil with their transmission hence the need for these requirements.
@@cameronwood1994 you need to be careful with monograde as well. Apparently, according to Lake, many of them have no additives at all... so you'll be missing out on anti-foaming agents and things like ZDDP, which are good for transmissions. It's more money, but I now use Redline MT85 and MT90 exclusively. They're designed from the start to be manual transmission fluids, are closer to engine oil than to a gear oil, and satisfy the requirements of the gearboxes in my cars. Otherwise... you can't really go wrong with what the manual specifies. Just make sure it's serviced at proper intervals.
I wondered about the motorcycle oil as well. It stands to reason it'd be quite appropriate, but it's really designed more for a wet clutch than a brass synchro.... so I'm not clear on whether that would benefit from the same fluid.
@@midwestmotoring Yes, I've noticed most are only API SA. Isn't this a case of following the minimum API or ACEA (formerly CCMC) requirements too?
So are you saying that the Driven oil did better than that VR1?
According to Lake, yes. But I'm not sure if he noted the application or which oil specifically. My takeaway was that there are a number of good options for classics, and VR1 happens to be one of them.
@@midwestmotoring
I’ve only just heard of Driven oil (in about the last year) so I’m a little leery about trying it.
I’ve been a Valvoline guy since the early 80s same as my dad.
Never had any issues with it.
I have tried Mobile 1 and Amsoil with no real issues in these older carbureted cars but I always come back to Valvoline.
But I change my oil a bit different than most people.
I had a 1972 Chevelle with a 350 back in the early 80’s and rebuilt the engine in 1986.
I bumped the hp and tq up a little bit.
I changed oil when it was hard to read the word (add) through the oil on the dipstick.
My friends always joked with me that I could probably resell my use oil.😆
I sold my car back in 1990
But you know what? In 2021 I located the guy that bought it from me back then to see if it was still around.
Not only was it still around he is still driving it on my engine rebuild from 1986.
It still runs great no oil burning or any issues to report.
So, my friends can joke all they want but my engine after 38 years is still going strong.
When I owned that car we dragged race every weekend during the summer.
Man were those the days.
I miss those days!
So it’s not like it was babied.
@@einstein3509 Valvoline is a great oil. That's mostly what I've used since my first car. The Driven stuff is more of a specialty blender, but I'm not sure I'd see a huge difference based on the way I drive and the cars it's going into. Maybe that'd be an interesting test some day....
Too hard on the ears
I know, and I'm embarrassed by it. If it were anything but an interview I couldn't do over, I'd scrap it and reshoot.