Here's the official how to video. Honestly though, seems harder to go in from the front. ua-cam.com/video/vWut6cziOtI/v-deo.html Either way, I hope this helps.
I just did this today. I think going through the front is easier if you skip removing the drum. The element is really not that difficult to get to with the drum still in place. A ratchet, 1/4 inch socket and a Phillips bit works well for the screw holding the element to the back of the unit (4:20 in your video). I have little room in my laundry room to pull the dryer to get adequate access to the back, I just flipped the breaker off and began the disassembly. I did not time myself, nor was I in a hurry replacing it, but I believe I could get it done through the front in about the same time or possibly quicker if you were to add on the time it took to move the dryer to get access to the back. Either way, thank you for the video. Good job!
Just finished the repair, with the help of my "more mechanical" brother. We had a few surprises that you did not encounter. My dryer sits on a pedestal so we had brackets that keep the pedestal and dryer connected. So, extra steps to remove them just to get the back loose (we did the repair with the dryer still sitting on the pedestal, which made it easier to work on the repair). We also encountered a "hard to reach" screw that kept the back piece from coming loose from the heater element (found the 1 screw on the underneath side and the 3 screws from inside the dryer without any problem). Still not sure why that "mystery" screw was there but we did not try to put it back when we were putting the dryer back together. Dryer works, guessing (hoping) the "new, burnt-in coil smells" inside the dryer will go away with a few runnings. Took us about 3 hours. Did appreciate the video and referenced it numerous times.
Glad it helped. Others have mentioned that mystery screw too. Not sure why I didn't encounter it. I did find a hole for it after seeing the comments about it. I didn't put one in either. Also, you'll find the aftermarket heating elements last maybe 1 year. I went through 3 of them in 2 years and finally sprang for the factory original. Even so, we try not to use the dryer on high heat.
You might be right. It's not super intuitive, but I've now taken my washer apart from the front, so I'm guessing the dryer is similar. That said, the heating element screws into that back upflow diverter gizmo, so getting to that little screw thru the front would be a challenge.
The first time I did this I decided on the video to go through the front. I’m not sure which is really easier, but for me it was easier to go through the front because access to the heater was much easier. The hardest part was the single screw in the heater element and the clip that attaches to the control panel. Also I had much more room to move around being in front. That said, my replacement heater lasted only 10 months. I had purchased 2 because I’d read others complaining that replacements don’t last. The second time took 2 hours, going slow, (with a short break) very start to finish, including the time to find the tools I needed and cleaning out dust and debris in and around the machine.
The cheap replacements are junk. I've replaced 4 now. Last one was about 3 weeks ago. This time, I spent the money and bought an OEM branded one. It's quite a bit sturdier and I'm hoping it will last. I keep a backup on hand too. But, it only takes me about 30-40 min start to finish to do the job, so for now, I'm keeping the dryer. I am salivating over those heat pump models though.
Thank you for this. I am replacing my second in less than a year. It must be the sanitize setting - I use it quite often as well. Not anymore, that’s for sure. It definitely took me a lot more than 23 minutes to change my first one. LOL hopefully this one is quicker as I’m going to follow your video here. Thanks again.
Thanks a lot for the "real-time" video. That was brave. Mine was a little different. A two pronged element, and I had one more hard-to-reach screw to get that heat duct out of the way but this was super helpful to get me pointed in the right direction. Also--nice shirt! I'm in the endurance sports industry.
Jeremy, I had that same screw. It's above the heating element and screwing into the duct from the inside of the dryer. You can see the screw hole just above the heater in Jonathan's dryer while he's working on changing the wires. Obviously his screw was gone. I had to take out the screws on the heating element and drop it out of the way so I could crane my wrist inside with the stubby screw driver to undo that screw. Then the duct dropped off and I could slide the heater out. But I did it in under an hour! Better than the 6 hours it took me 2 years ago. (lots of cussing and mental health/whining breaks) Thanks Jonathan!
My second time replacing this element. First time I replaced from the front. Jonathan's method much easier to get to all the screws. Took me longer to hook the venting to outside than it did to replace it.
This is a great video. This process has become an annual exercise for us, but it's helpful to review the videos for doing this. And this one is a good one. I do think it's time for a new dryer. There is no reason why these should wear out annually :-)
My dryer had an extra 2 screws holding on the inner back vent piece. One on the inside and one backward only accesable from the front. I left that piece, unscrewed the legs, and was able to remove the element & place the new one in without removing it. This is definitely faster. You can also fully vacuum it from the read, see, and lubricate your belt? Idfk? Just some other comment rambling. Must have front aide regrets.
Thanks. The next time it burned out (10mo later), I tried it from the front. It's easier to remove the heating element, but it's definitely more disassembly. 3rd time I went through the back again, but this time with an OEM element. Hopefully, that lasts longer.
I'm doing this repair now. My friend's repairman forgot to put the screw that holds the vent to the heating element back in, but I still can't get the vent disconnected from the heating element. Removed the 3 screws inside the dryer, but it still seems stuck on. You're moving so fast it seems like you'd scratch stuff up, dent it, or otherwise damage it, haha.
Sorry about that. I was too worried that if I went slow (like I normally would), the video would be boring to watch. lol I hope you figured out your stuck heating element.
@@mymorristribe I got it figured out.. there was one more screw holding it on. Had to reach in there above the heating element with a stubby screwdriver and unscrew it. Putting it back in was way harder, but I got it done. The head of the screw was facing the front of the dryer. And instead of calling that tear drop shaped piece of metal a "cover," I should've said "vent," so I'll edit original comment. Also, to get the 3 screws inside the dryer that hold the vent on back in, I had no help at all, so I ended up using a ratchet strap to hold it on tight and lined up for me. That worked great on first try. I tried some T-Rex tape first, which didn't work. I'm also working in super confined space, and couldn't get the back cover completely out of the way due to a wire harness that goes to the steam part. My dryer is a slightly different model, I'm pretty sure.. Anyway, quite sure I fixed it, but now I'm having trouble getting all the screws into the back cover and mounting brackets, because mine is mounted to a cabinet pedestal thing. Should be able to get that done tomorrow night. Just needed a couple days off from dealing with that BS. Very nice dryer, though.
great video got this done yesterday thanks to your video , however at 5;25 where u unscrew the back plate from the inside , their is another small screw at the back above the heating element , which was very hard to remove , it must of been missing on ur unit since the plate fell to the floor ,
First of all this is a high voltage dryer, very sharp, and one of the most complicated design ever built, so if you don't feel comfortable doing this, call a professional appliance repair technician! It is a lot easier and faster if you disassemble the front part of dryer, not the back. Always take pictures of wires. New OEM heating element will last longer than a $25 amazon cheap heating element and especially a used one. And always unplug the dryer before you do anything.
Thanks Mr. Morris awesome video. I learned a lot of it and I'm saving money at the same time! I do have a question: how do I know what heating element to order from Amazon? Hope this isn't a dumb question! There is several on there and I'm not electrically nor am I mechanically inclined I am solely following your video again thank you!!
Hi, You'll need to look for a sticker on your dryer with your specific model #. In my case, the sticker was on the rim (door jam?) of the dryer when you open the door. My model # is EIMED60LT3. Then you can go to a website like partselect.com and enter your model # and it will show you FACTORY OEM parts to buy. Those are great, but very expensive. But, you can look for the part # for the item you need. In my case, the heating element OEM # is PS2349309. Then you can search for that part # on Amazon. It will show you generic compatible parts. In my case, the OEM part is this: www.partselect.com/PS2349309-Frigidaire-134792700-Dryer-Heater-Element.htm?SourceCode=20&SearchTerm=EIMED60LT3&ModelNum=EIMED60LT3&ModelID=6937056 But, the one I purchased (the last time) was this: www.amazon.com/dp/B08136MBYD?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details Notice the description of the generic Amazon part says that it is compatible with...and then it lists a bunch of OEM part numbers including the one for my dryer. Sometimes, you can just enter your model # in Amazon and it shows you a bunch of compatible parts. If you know exactly what your part looks like, you can usually visually verify that it's correct. But, it's safer to find the OEM part # first. I hope that helps you.
Doing it from the front is much easier imo, especially if the dryer is on top of the washer and in a closet. Doing it from the front also gives you the opportunity to thoroughly vacuum the inside of the cabinet as well as the blower housing, inspect the tub rollers, idler pulley and lubricate them, as well as inspect the belt and change if needed. ALWAYS replace the sensors on the burner can!! ALWAYS make sure the vent system is absolutely clean and the vent flapper outside the house is working properly and the vent length does not exceed the manufacturer's recommendation as well as making sure that the vent is made of solid pipe NOT any of the flexible garbage. The flexible stuff restricts the airflow tremendously and cannot contain a vent fire , should one occur. Clean the vent system periodically. Solid venting does not need it as often. You can probably get away with once every 2 years , assuming it was installed properly ie: no screws or rivets were used to join the sections, which are a snag point for lint. Use only approved metal tape and use a clamp to attach the vent to the dryer since tape usually will not hold well there. Make sure the lint filter is clean. Just because it is free of lint does not mean it's clean. Often the pores get clogged in the screen. Fabric softener sheets cause that a lot. Hold the lint filter up to a light and make sure you can seen through all the little holes in the screen. If not, use a brush to clean the screen until it is clear. Clean the lint filter after EVERY load! If you follow those tips, you will be saving a lot of energy and you won't be replacing heating elements every few months, assuming you are not using bootleg parts from Amazon, which is a whole other topic of discussion.
The next time, I tried from the front. It worked fine, but you do have to remove more parts. You can thoroughly vacuum it out from the rear a well. I always do that, and it's amazing how much lint gets down in there.
Great video. Could you please tell me if the replacement heating element was an oem one or an aftermarket one ?? And how long did it last. Or is it still working. Thanks.
Sorry for the delayed response. Mine was whatever knockoff Amazon had. First replacement lasted less than a year. Second has lasted longer so far, but I don't use sanitize mode anymore.
On mine there's 2 screws holding in that long flat piece inside the back cover, you can only access that screw from the front. I thought it was odd that one screw would hold on that whole attachment to the back of the heating element
Interesting. Well considering people seem to think it's better to do this from the front anyway, I guess that's probably your best option. At least you know it's a pretty easy fix.
Thank you! I'm not sure how to add another language. Feel free to copy and use the video however you'd like. I'm not trying to make money or anything like that; just helping people.
If my dryer's (same as the one in the video) normal heat and high heat cycles are working, but the delicate cycle isn't working consistently what would the problem be? Is it the heating element?
hmm, dunno. If it just won't spin on delicate, then that's not the heating element. Either way, the heating element is just a bunch of resistance wire; nothing fancy, so I'd guess it's a control mechanism rather than the heating element. I'm just a regular DIY guy--not an expert.
What's likely happening is that it's working ok until about 10-15min, then the heating element is expanding from heat and shorting out. At that point, it probably no longer heats. Best guess.
I finally broke down and bought the oem heater for my 3rd one. Fingers crossed it works longer than the junk Amazon ones I had been buying. But, I keep a spare on hand now. lol
It's gone up in price. Make sure this is for your particular dryer. Siwdoy 134792700 Dryer Heating Element Compatible with Electrolux Frigidaire PS2349309 AP4368653 a.co/d/2eDNK1z
Hello, you know I have a 120 volt dryer but it doesn't blow hot air, only cold. You know what the problem could be. I hope you can help me. Thank you!!!
Sorry, without knowing the model, all I can guess is that the heating element is burned out. Those are pretty easy to identify, but you'll need to take it apart.
Maybe, but getting to the screw that mounts the rear of the heating element to that uptube that feeds the dryer would be a challenge. Thanks for the feedback.
Whatevs. I've had to replace that heating element probably 4 times now. I've got it down to less than 15min, and I think it's easier than pulling out the drum. The chinese knockoff elements are junk!
I believe he is trying to help out others who can't afford to pay a technician. I thank you for the video. And I love the idea of your son being there. I think the time u spent together and the idea of u teaching him to do things yourself is great. So in all, I think u made out good. Keep up the DIY..
Here's the official how to video. Honestly though, seems harder to go in from the front. ua-cam.com/video/vWut6cziOtI/v-deo.html Either way, I hope this helps.
I just did this today. I think going through the front is easier if you skip removing the drum. The element is really not that difficult to get to with the drum still in place. A ratchet, 1/4 inch socket and a Phillips bit works well for the screw holding the element to the back of the unit (4:20 in your video).
I have little room in my laundry room to pull the dryer to get adequate access to the back, I just flipped the breaker off and began the disassembly. I did not time myself, nor was I in a hurry replacing it, but I believe I could get it done through the front in about the same time or possibly quicker if you were to add on the time it took to move the dryer to get access to the back.
Either way, thank you for the video. Good job!
Thanks brotha, I just did mine but only cause your video, I had no idea what to do but you are a $$$$ saver and that I thank you for more than u know.
I have to thank you for making this video. You saved us a few hundred bucks for a repair call. You rock!
Thanks for the video. It helped this lady change the heating element all by myself. 😁👏
Just finished the repair, with the help of my "more mechanical" brother. We had a few surprises that you did not encounter. My dryer sits on a pedestal so we had brackets that keep the pedestal and dryer connected. So, extra steps to remove them just to get the back loose (we did the repair with the dryer still sitting on the pedestal, which made it easier to work on the repair). We also encountered a "hard to reach" screw that kept the back piece from coming loose from the heater element (found the 1 screw on the underneath side and the 3 screws from inside the dryer without any problem). Still not sure why that "mystery" screw was there but we did not try to put it back when we were putting the dryer back together. Dryer works, guessing (hoping) the "new, burnt-in coil smells" inside the dryer will go away with a few runnings. Took us about 3 hours. Did appreciate the video and referenced it numerous times.
Glad it helped. Others have mentioned that mystery screw too. Not sure why I didn't encounter it. I did find a hole for it after seeing the comments about it. I didn't put one in either. Also, you'll find the aftermarket heating elements last maybe 1 year. I went through 3 of them in 2 years and finally sprang for the factory original. Even so, we try not to use the dryer on high heat.
Good job I like your video. But I believe you take these dryers apart from the front, which makes it easier to get to the heater element
You might be right. It's not super intuitive, but I've now taken my washer apart from the front, so I'm guessing the dryer is similar. That said, the heating element screws into that back upflow diverter gizmo, so getting to that little screw thru the front would be a challenge.
Great video and props to the cameraman👍👍
Thanks I just replaced mine this morning and this video helped a lot :)
The first time I did this I decided on the video to go through the front. I’m not sure which is really easier, but for me it was easier to go through the front because access to the heater was much easier. The hardest part was the single screw in the heater element and the clip that attaches to the control panel. Also I had much more room to move around being in front. That said, my replacement heater lasted only 10 months. I had purchased 2 because I’d read others complaining that replacements don’t last. The second time took 2 hours, going slow, (with a short break) very start to finish, including the time to find the tools I needed and cleaning out dust and debris in and around the machine.
The cheap replacements are junk. I've replaced 4 now. Last one was about 3 weeks ago. This time, I spent the money and bought an OEM branded one. It's quite a bit sturdier and I'm hoping it will last. I keep a backup on hand too. But, it only takes me about 30-40 min start to finish to do the job, so for now, I'm keeping the dryer. I am salivating over those heat pump models though.
Thank you for this. I am replacing my second in less than a year. It must be the sanitize setting - I use it quite often as well. Not anymore, that’s for sure. It definitely took me a lot more than 23 minutes to change my first one. LOL hopefully this one is quicker as I’m going to follow your video here. Thanks again.
Q
Thanks a lot for the "real-time" video. That was brave. Mine was a little different. A two pronged element, and I had one more hard-to-reach screw to get that heat duct out of the way but this was super helpful to get me pointed in the right direction. Also--nice shirt! I'm in the endurance sports industry.
Jeremy, I had that same screw. It's above the heating element and screwing into the duct from the inside of the dryer. You can see the screw hole just above the heater in Jonathan's dryer while he's working on changing the wires. Obviously his screw was gone. I had to take out the screws on the heating element and drop it out of the way so I could crane my wrist inside with the stubby screw driver to undo that screw. Then the duct dropped off and I could slide the heater out. But I did it in under an hour! Better than the 6 hours it took me 2 years ago. (lots of cussing and mental health/whining breaks)
Thanks Jonathan!
I had that hard to reach screw also
Thanks I had that screw too..
My second time replacing this element. First time I replaced from the front. Jonathan's method much easier to get to all the screws. Took me longer to hook the venting to outside than it did to replace it.
Thank you for this video, it is very helpful,
This is a great video. This process has become an annual exercise for us, but it's helpful to review the videos for doing this. And this one is a good one. I do think it's time for a new dryer. There is no reason why these should wear out annually :-)
It you don't use the highest heat setting, it will last a lot longer. Thanks for the feedback.
@@mymorristribeUhh so my dad replace this 15 times and still didn’t work im scared to do it again what do i do? 😰
Super helpful thanks dude!
Thanks for the video!
Thank you for the video!
This was excellent. Thank you so much 🍺
Great video , Thank You 🙏
My dryer had an extra 2 screws holding on the inner back vent piece. One on the inside and one backward only accesable from the front.
I left that piece, unscrewed the legs, and was able to remove the element & place the new one in without removing it.
This is definitely faster. You can also fully vacuum it from the read, see, and lubricate your belt? Idfk? Just some other comment rambling. Must have front aide regrets.
Interesting. Maybe the factory left those out on mine. Going in from the front works fine too.
Always do this job from the front.. doing it from the back is harder.. A+ for effort!
Thanks. The next time it burned out (10mo later), I tried it from the front. It's easier to remove the heating element, but it's definitely more disassembly. 3rd time I went through the back again, but this time with an OEM element. Hopefully, that lasts longer.
Great job dad
Tank,s that help me a lot
I'm doing this repair now. My friend's repairman forgot to put the screw that holds the vent to the heating element back in, but I still can't get the vent disconnected from the heating element. Removed the 3 screws inside the dryer, but it still seems stuck on. You're moving so fast it seems like you'd scratch stuff up, dent it, or otherwise damage it, haha.
Sorry about that. I was too worried that if I went slow (like I normally would), the video would be boring to watch. lol I hope you figured out your stuck heating element.
@@mymorristribe I got it figured out.. there was one more screw holding it on. Had to reach in there above the heating element with a stubby screwdriver and unscrew it. Putting it back in was way harder, but I got it done. The head of the screw was facing the front of the dryer. And instead of calling that tear drop shaped piece of metal a "cover," I should've said "vent," so I'll edit original comment. Also, to get the 3 screws inside the dryer that hold the vent on back in, I had no help at all, so I ended up using a ratchet strap to hold it on tight and lined up for me. That worked great on first try. I tried some T-Rex tape first, which didn't work. I'm also working in super confined space, and couldn't get the back cover completely out of the way due to a wire harness that goes to the steam part. My dryer is a slightly different model, I'm pretty sure.. Anyway, quite sure I fixed it, but now I'm having trouble getting all the screws into the back cover and mounting brackets, because mine is mounted to a cabinet pedestal thing. Should be able to get that done tomorrow night. Just needed a couple days off from dealing with that BS. Very nice dryer, though.
@@green3488 lol....I empathize greatly with your struggles as that sounds like most of my diy type projects.
great video got this done yesterday thanks to your video , however at 5;25 where u unscrew the back plate from the inside , their is another small screw at the back above the heating element , which was very hard to remove , it must of been missing on ur unit since the plate fell to the floor ,
Considering this was the 2nd time (after a year in between), it's VERY possible that I forgot to put that back. Thanks for the feedback.
Thank you
First of all this is a high voltage dryer, very sharp, and one of the most complicated design ever built, so if you don't feel comfortable doing this, call a professional appliance repair technician!
It is a lot easier and faster if you disassemble the front part of dryer, not the back. Always take pictures of wires.
New OEM heating element will last longer than a $25 amazon cheap heating element and especially a used one.
And always unplug the dryer before you do anything.
I'll try the front disassembly option, but from the videos online, it looks more complicated to me. You gotta pull the drum out?
It is easy to do from the front side
Thanks Mr. Morris awesome video. I learned a lot of it and I'm saving money at the same time! I do have a question: how do I know what heating element to order from Amazon? Hope this isn't a dumb question! There is several on there and I'm not electrically nor am I mechanically inclined I am solely following your video again thank you!!
Hi, You'll need to look for a sticker on your dryer with your specific model #. In my case, the sticker was on the rim (door jam?) of the dryer when you open the door. My model # is EIMED60LT3. Then you can go to a website like partselect.com and enter your model # and it will show you FACTORY OEM parts to buy. Those are great, but very expensive. But, you can look for the part # for the item you need. In my case, the heating element OEM # is PS2349309. Then you can search for that part # on Amazon. It will show you generic compatible parts. In my case, the OEM part is this: www.partselect.com/PS2349309-Frigidaire-134792700-Dryer-Heater-Element.htm?SourceCode=20&SearchTerm=EIMED60LT3&ModelNum=EIMED60LT3&ModelID=6937056
But, the one I purchased (the last time) was this: www.amazon.com/dp/B08136MBYD?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Notice the description of the generic Amazon part says that it is compatible with...and then it lists a bunch of OEM part numbers including the one for my dryer.
Sometimes, you can just enter your model # in Amazon and it shows you a bunch of compatible parts. If you know exactly what your part looks like, you can usually visually verify that it's correct. But, it's safer to find the OEM part # first.
I hope that helps you.
Thanks for the help. FYI you sound identical to Jason Bateman.
Lol...thanks, I think?
@@mymorristribe absolutely a compliment, run w it🏃🏃🏃
Doing it from the front is much easier imo, especially if the dryer is on top of the washer and in a closet. Doing it from the front also gives you the opportunity to thoroughly vacuum the inside of the cabinet as well as the blower housing, inspect the tub rollers, idler pulley and lubricate them, as well as inspect the belt and change if needed.
ALWAYS replace the sensors on the burner can!! ALWAYS make sure the vent system is absolutely clean and the vent flapper outside the house is working properly and the vent length does not exceed the manufacturer's recommendation as well as making sure that the vent is made of solid pipe NOT any of the flexible garbage. The flexible stuff restricts the airflow tremendously and cannot contain a vent fire , should one occur. Clean the vent system periodically. Solid venting does not need it as often. You can probably get away with once every 2 years , assuming it was installed properly ie: no screws or rivets were used to join the sections, which are a snag point for lint. Use only approved metal tape and use a clamp to attach the vent to the dryer since tape usually will not hold well there.
Make sure the lint filter is clean. Just because it is free of lint does not mean it's clean. Often the pores get clogged in the screen. Fabric softener sheets cause that a lot. Hold the lint filter up to a light and make sure you can seen through all the little holes in the screen. If not, use a brush to clean the screen until it is clear. Clean the lint filter after EVERY load!
If you follow those tips, you will be saving a lot of energy and you won't be replacing heating elements every few months, assuming you are not using bootleg parts from Amazon, which is a whole other topic of discussion.
The next time, I tried from the front. It worked fine, but you do have to remove more parts. You can thoroughly vacuum it out from the rear a well. I always do that, and it's amazing how much lint gets down in there.
Great video. Could you please tell me if the replacement heating element was an oem one or an aftermarket one ?? And how long did it last. Or is it still working. Thanks.
Sorry for the delayed response. Mine was whatever knockoff Amazon had. First replacement lasted less than a year. Second has lasted longer so far, but I don't use sanitize mode anymore.
On mine there's 2 screws holding in that long flat piece inside the back cover, you can only access that screw from the front. I thought it was odd that one screw would hold on that whole attachment to the back of the heating element
Interesting. Well considering people seem to think it's better to do this from the front anyway, I guess that's probably your best option. At least you know it's a pretty easy fix.
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Thank you! I'm not sure how to add another language. Feel free to copy and use the video however you'd like. I'm not trying to make money or anything like that; just helping people.
If my dryer's (same as the one in the video) normal heat and high heat cycles are working, but the delicate cycle isn't working consistently what would the problem be? Is it the heating element?
hmm, dunno. If it just won't spin on delicate, then that's not the heating element. Either way, the heating element is just a bunch of resistance wire; nothing fancy, so I'd guess it's a control mechanism rather than the heating element. I'm just a regular DIY guy--not an expert.
My dryer heats but gives me this code like 15/30 mins in. Still code e 64. Is it still the heating element I need to replace or something else?
What's likely happening is that it's working ok until about 10-15min, then the heating element is expanding from heat and shorting out. At that point, it probably no longer heats. Best guess.
I've replaced mine now 3 times ... hopefully this time we don't set it on sanitize ever again hahah
I finally broke down and bought the oem heater for my 3rd one. Fingers crossed it works longer than the junk Amazon ones I had been buying. But, I keep a spare on hand now. lol
How long did that $13 element last?
The first one lasted less than a year. 2nd one lasted longer (so far it is working) but I don't use sanitize mode anymore.
@@mymorristribe I bought one that is American made called Supco/Napco. I try to use made in USA whenever possible. Will see how long this lasts.
@@mymorristribe , do you mind sending the Amazon link?
It's gone up in price. Make sure this is for your particular dryer. Siwdoy 134792700 Dryer Heating Element Compatible with Electrolux Frigidaire PS2349309 AP4368653 a.co/d/2eDNK1z
Hello, you know I have a 120 volt dryer but it doesn't blow hot air, only cold. You know what the problem could be. I hope you can help me. Thank you!!!
Sorry, without knowing the model, all I can guess is that the heating element is burned out. Those are pretty easy to identify, but you'll need to take it apart.
This is my second time watching this video in 6 months. Because that's how long my dryer lasts before it breaks again 😡
Yep. I have replaced my burner twice too. Never use the highest heat setting and it will last. It is a bad design or defective part though.
Probably easier to go through the front
Maybe, but getting to the screw that mounts the rear of the heating element to that uptube that feeds the dryer would be a challenge. Thanks for the feedback.
@@mymorristribe It is, I used a flex shaft once and a stubby screwdriver another time.
@@zinoklahoma343 Good to know. In "official" how to" videos, they pull the drum. Not hard, but harder than thru the back imo. Thanks for the feedback.
wrong disassembly!
I mean, I got it apart and back together. It's not the space station. Lol. But, I'm no pro. Just a regular DIY guy.
110% not how to take this modle of dryer apart!
Whatevs. I've had to replace that heating element probably 4 times now. I've got it down to less than 15min, and I think it's easier than pulling out the drum. The chinese knockoff elements are junk!
No offense but I can tell you don't do this for a living
I do it for me. I'm definitely just a diy guy.
I believe he is trying to help out others who can't afford to pay a technician. I thank you for the video. And I love the idea of your son being there. I think the time u spent together and the idea of u teaching him to do things yourself is great. So in all, I think u made out good. Keep up the DIY..