Another interesting video from you and I find it educational. I personally would have used the entire half floor patch on each side of the front and back areas, but I'm kind of OCD in that regard. But since you are more experienced in these repairs it was enlightening. Thank you for your content and I'll keep watching! Thanks again.
Half floors would had been the way to go, like I did in the 65, So I'm changing this one up a little to show some different ways to get around the issues with enough work a patch can disappear and he seamless, and as always Donald thanks for your continued support
Looks great and thanks for the reminder about re-doing the spot welds in the subframe. Question: How did you locate those spot welds to drill them out? I couldn't see them in the video. Anytime you're working on an old Mustang, make sure you have your tetanus booster up to date!😄
Another great video Russ! You're right sometimes you dont need a whole floor pan. Depending on the expected use f9r that car patches will work just fine! It was nice that you showed how to fix a large gap with weld
Russ hi, the front floors are looking good. Thank you for showing us how to weld up those wider gaps. Can't wait to see what all you have plan for this 66. Thanks for your help.
It’s nice that you ask your viewers what kind of content they want. Nice. If you are modifying the intake manifold ,I really want to see that and I think you can actually do that. You put out some quality work
I'm waiting on some parts for the Lt project (about 3 weeks now) I may have to let my machine shop guy finish the intake but I will definitely cover the mods needed to be done I'm trying to hone that one down to as dirt cheap and homegrown of a project as I can
Russ, I used those same floor patch panels to fix a friend's 61 Comet Station Wagon, a little modifying the whole pan and no one knows the difference, Always looking forward to your videos, Thanks for putting in the time to make the videos while you work.
The only other person in this entire world that ive seen on a yt vid use a pair of fairmonts. :) We use that tool religiously in our metal shop. Its a very indestructible tool.
I think it would be nice to make this car into a track day racer. A lot of people today probably don’t know or remember that these little coupes were raced in SCCA competition right off the bat when they were new. With the independent rear suspension from a fox body and the right engine, this thing would be awesome.
Thanks for doing the video. It’s was helpful, especially if you have a car they don’t make ready-made patch panels for. Watching to see where you take this one.
Russ another great video,and your right about this car some need restoration but not worthy of nothing more than making something cool out of it,if you had the original engine and transmission along with the rear than yes100% restoration would be the way to go,well excellent video God bless and peace out
Another great and interesting video, Russ! I definitely like the 4 link idea, it never really crossed my mind to add only the rear suspension fron a "Fox Body" In a way it reminds me of the project my brother offered to me to repair the rear suspension in his early '80's Geo ragtop . It was the problem you get from pushing the Geo with the rear brakes seized/parking brake on. The rear suspension tries to rotate with the wheels, tearing the trailing arms from the floor. This made for an interesting project that was never resolved.
@@HotRodGuyGarage Agreed! However the car is now gone to the boneyard, just after my brother passed in June of 2022. Just 24 days before his 60th birthday - 2 days before our mothers passing. It really wasn't a good week.
chatting with a guy on a Mustang forum who's looking at similar problems, so I referred him to this video. Also the '65 series because that required careful measurement and work to get it square and straight. He has a ragtop so a whole new set of concerns for getting it in proper alignment all around. Hope it helps him understand his challenges and gets you another view or two.
LAB Omaha Any kind of race car should have full length subframe connectors from inside of front frame rails to inside of rear rails. Then add mini tubs for rear tire clearance and open up the rear wheel opening by 2”. You can build a subframe for your four link and tie in a roll cage. Leave a flat rear floor like a Shelby. On the front suspension look at aftermarket parts and choose a design you can afford, there is some really good options out there. You may be able to get 7 or 8” wide wheels on all 4 corners. Use a front cross member that ties into the lower control arms and has a jacking pad. Torque Box’s on both sides. Disc brakes all around from a late model Ford. Export Brace and Monte Carlo bar. Ford 9” with 3:50 limited slip. 5 speed transmission with hydraulic clutch and of course a stroked SBF.
Russ you would feel a whole lot better working on the 66 considering that nobody has been in there with hacked panels like the 65 Mustang a factory original car with not to much rust you have done a nice job leaving most of the front pans.
Super street car. Mini or maxi tubs, 4 link, killer "lower" stance with that 351 & LT heads. Just a simple fast but street and hot rod show car. A lot like the green Torino. My two cents...
I went to watch this the other day. First video I've not been able to watch that was SUBSCRIBER first. Very disappointing. I tried every which way to watch it. Shut down youtube. Logged out. reloaded. Shut down my whole machine. Rebooted. It just would NOT play. I see it works today, but I don't have any time today.I had time over the weekend.
That is frustrating, I’ll have to look into that and see if there was a hiccup with it, I've been trying to put a few out extra early for you guys and gals
Awesome entertainment/education as always Russ. 10k subs any time soon, congratulations!
I appreciate the support, hopefully, we can keep growing this channel!
Thanks Russ! Looking good.
Thanks for checking it out, hope it helps you with your project!
Looking good!
Thanks for checking it out!
Another interesting video from you and I find it educational.
I personally would have used the entire half floor patch on each side of the front and back areas, but I'm kind of OCD in that regard. But since you are more experienced in these repairs it was enlightening.
Thank you for your content and I'll keep watching! Thanks again.
Half floors would had been the way to go, like I did in the 65, So I'm changing this one up a little to show some different ways to get around the issues with enough work a patch can disappear and he seamless, and as always Donald thanks for your continued support
Looks great and thanks for the reminder about re-doing the spot welds in the subframe. Question: How did you locate those spot welds to drill them out? I couldn't see them in the video. Anytime you're working on an old Mustang, make sure you have your tetanus booster up to date!😄
Thanks for being the first comment! And sometimes you have to just feel for them that's where a paint marker comes in handy!
I definitely like the 4 link idea 👍
Definitely coming soon!
Looking forward to seeing where you go with this. As long as you are happy and Daisy approves it's all good.
Thanks! Daisy and I both appreciate the support!
Luv it excellent daisy & Russ cheers 😊
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it.
🔥😎
The 4 link and 8.8 would be nice in there.
Absolutely
Another great video Russ! You're right sometimes you dont need a whole floor pan. Depending on the expected use f9r that car patches will work just fine! It was nice that you showed how to fix a large gap with weld
Thanks! Sometimes a small fix is all that's needed.
Russ hi, the front floors are looking good. Thank you for showing us how to weld up those wider gaps. Can't wait to see what all you have plan for this 66. Thanks for your help.
Thanks for watching! There's a lot more to come, I'm just getting started.
I'm glad you're taking this in a direction that make sense for you and that you like - that's what I want to see. 10k is coming!
Thanks for the support!
It’s nice that you ask your viewers what kind of content they want. Nice. If you are modifying the intake manifold ,I really want to see that and I think you can actually do that. You put out some quality work
I'm waiting on some parts for the Lt project (about 3 weeks now) I may have to let my machine shop guy finish the intake but I will definitely cover the mods needed to be done I'm trying to hone that one down to as dirt cheap and homegrown of a project as I can
Very informative!
Thanks for watching! Hopefully it helps
I like the idea of using the suspension from the newer mustang. Another great vid. Thank you.
It’ll make for a really fun driving car! Thank you for watching as always
When I installed the full sides on my sons Mustang, I used some heat and a ballpeen hammer to stretch the metal to fit the rear torque box.
A little heat sometimes goes a long ways
Russ, I used those same floor patch panels to fix a friend's 61 Comet Station Wagon, a little modifying the whole pan and no one knows the difference, Always looking forward to your videos, Thanks for putting in the time to make the videos while you work.
Absolutely, a few changes here and there and no one will ever notice on a floor, I appreciate you watching also!
Amazing that Daisy doesn't run away when you use grinders and such. Our cats completely disappear whenever it gets loud.
Daisy loves to help out and be part of the project. Sometimes she even helps hold the wrench there's not a whole lot that rattles her
The only other person in this entire world that ive seen on a yt vid use a pair of fairmonts. :) We use that tool religiously in our metal shop. Its a very indestructible tool.
There definitely a tool that will last forever and super helpful messing with any metal work
I think it would be nice to make this car into a track day racer. A lot of people today probably don’t know or remember that these little coupes were raced in SCCA competition right off the bat when they were new. With the independent rear suspension from a fox body and the right engine, this thing would be awesome.
Definitely noted! I've seen some cool scca early cars
Thanks for doing the video. It’s was helpful, especially if you have a car they don’t make ready-made patch panels for. Watching to see where you take this one.
Thanks, you'll definitely see some cool stuff coming up.
Body work can be boring to watch, but I learn something every time even if I never get around to doing any.
I agree, glad your able to take something from them you may be able to use in the future
Always nice to see your work!!!
Much appreciated
Russ another great video,and your right about this car some need restoration but not worthy of nothing more than making something cool out of it,if you had the original engine and transmission along with the rear than yes100% restoration would be the way to go,well excellent video God bless and peace out
Thanks, I definitely agree be good to let it live it's life out as something cool instead of sitting in someone's yard and rotting
Another great and interesting video, Russ! I definitely like the 4 link idea, it never really crossed my mind to add only the rear suspension fron a "Fox Body" In a way it reminds me of the project my brother offered to me to repair the rear suspension in his early '80's Geo ragtop . It was the problem you get from pushing the Geo with the rear brakes seized/parking brake on. The rear suspension tries to rotate with the wheels, tearing the trailing arms from the floor. This made for an interesting project that was never resolved.
The body swap would had been a easy route to go but it's definitely possible to just graft in what's needed
@@HotRodGuyGarage Agreed! However the car is now gone to the boneyard, just after my brother passed in June of 2022. Just 24 days before his 60th birthday - 2 days before our mothers passing. It really wasn't a good week.
chatting with a guy on a Mustang forum who's looking at similar problems, so I referred him to this video. Also the '65 series because that required careful measurement and work to get it square and straight. He has a ragtop so a whole new set of concerns for getting it in proper alignment all around. Hope it helps him understand his challenges and gets you another view or two.
I appreciate the help spreading the word! And a convertible is a whole bunch of flex for sure so extra careful measures definitely need to be in place
Just started watching. Looking forward to this one, I’ll be doing floor pan patches in my project here soon.
Thanks, hopefully it will help some!
Enjoying the videos.
Thank you
Looking good
Thank you! A lot of work ahead
LAB Omaha
Any kind of race car should have full length subframe connectors from inside of front frame rails to inside of rear rails. Then add mini tubs for rear tire clearance and open up the rear wheel opening by 2”. You can build a subframe for your four link and tie in a roll cage. Leave a flat rear floor like a Shelby. On the front suspension look at aftermarket parts and choose a design you can afford, there is some really good options out there. You may be able to get 7 or 8” wide wheels on all 4 corners. Use a front cross member that ties into the lower control arms and has a jacking pad. Torque Box’s on both sides. Disc brakes all around from a late model Ford. Export Brace and Monte Carlo bar.
Ford 9” with 3:50 limited slip. 5 speed transmission with hydraulic clutch and
of course a stroked SBF.
It's definitely getting some extra Chassis bracing coming soon, I will probably end up seam welding the whole car also
As for what I would do with this … There are a couple Holman Moody Mustangs from this era that nail the look for the vision perfectly.
Absolutely, I love some 60's-70's vibes
Just a question on your preferences, why paint and not the wax protectant in areas that may get water inside?
@@johnnydanger57 that can be done later also, I've still got a lot of welding to do structural wise so like the 65 it will be done last
Russ you would feel a whole lot better working on the 66 considering that nobody has been in there with hacked panels like the 65 Mustang a factory original car with not to much rust you have done a nice job leaving most of the front pans.
Yeah it’s definitely been a lot nicer working on this one vs the other one. I want this one to be a fun project
What do you use to neutralize the Ospho or what do you coat over the Osphito prep it for paint?
They actually recommend to paint over it , I usually wire brush the surface and wipe down with a thinner as prep
Thanks, yeah I see that on the instructions.
@@heartpumper77stockchannel4 I've had good results doing it that way
Super street car. Mini or maxi tubs, 4 link, killer "lower" stance with that 351 & LT heads. Just a simple fast but street and hot rod show car. A lot like the green Torino. My two cents...
It has the potential to be about anything from here we will see how it evolves
Do they make patch panels for the floor pan tunnel? I have got some rust spots in the tunnel which may need patching.
I think the only way to get the tunnel is to buy a whole floor, most of it could be easily fabricated though from flat steel
new metal-cleaner job.
Absolutely
Instead of a 302 type engine how about a v-6.
I'm not much of a v6 guy unless it's a turbo Buick
I went to watch this the other day. First video I've not been able to watch that was SUBSCRIBER first. Very disappointing. I tried every which way to watch it. Shut down youtube. Logged out. reloaded. Shut down my whole machine. Rebooted. It just would NOT play. I see it works today, but I don't have any time today.I had time over the weekend.
That is frustrating, I’ll have to look into that and see if there was a hiccup with it, I've been trying to put a few out extra early for you guys and gals
1st gen are cool. Until you start to bastardize them. Old school hot rod like that car would have been in the seventies.
The only good thing is you can always get them back stock fairly easy with the amount of reproduced panels