Had the same problem. Soaked both back wheels in Kroil and waited a day. Jacked, pulled, sweated and cussed til I just gave out. Got on UA-cam and watched your video. Next day I got one of my Dad's old rusty punches and a hammer and in 15 minutes had both back wheels off. Got so excited I put one of the new wheels on backwards. You saved the dsy. Thank you!!
Thank you! I got out a big hammer as you suggested and used a giant old dull drill bit I had instead of the awl - bang bang bang a few times and the wheel came off, hurrah. Puncture repaired and tyre re-inflated and back on. very grateful for your advice and demo.
Hey guys here is an old shade tree mechanic if you have a tire that keeps leaking air, put a cup of burnt motor oil in the tire it forces the rubber to expand inside the tire and that makes the rubber seal itself. I've taught many people this trick, and I've had many people tell me this trick will not work. But it happens to be on a Sunday and they don't want to take the 32 mi trip to town and still want to get the mowing done! And at the end of the mowing season that tire is still aired up for most people depending on how bad the tire is. ( This repair is for dry rotted tires) not if you got a nail in your tire. If the beed is broken poor a cup in that way if the beed is not broken remove the valve stem center and try to poor your oil in that way ( spray bottle) then put the valve core back in and air it back up and spin it around then put it on the mower and run the mower around for about 15 minutes this will help to seal up the leaks. You can even use transmission fluid if that's all you have. I've done this to a few of my vehicle's just to make it to pay day and it does indeed works!- at least it worked for me and now I pass this knowledge on to you. I'm 100% disabled unfortunately so I have to make every penny count and when I find a way to help me save money I pass the knowledge on to others because they are probably in the same boat as me,on a limit income. I truly hope that you found this useful thank you for reading 😊
I couldn't even get started. "Remove the cap (A) from the end of the axle hub," says the manual. "I'm fkn trying" sez I. It's around freezing here and the plastic was hard. Decided to hit YT and this vid was just what I needed. A heat gun did the trick - derp. Seems obvious in retrospect. Had all required tools on hand including an inherited drift that looks just like the one in the vid, and a short-handled 2-lb sledgehammer I call Li'l Mr. Fixit. Never got to use them. My wheel came off without a fight. No complaints. Thanks again.
I power wire brush till nice and shiny, and wire brush in the wheel. Then add some bearing grease on shaft and in wheel. Slides like butter , and prevents it from rusting on for next time. Great video 👍
Mine is stuck worse than that , i tried hitting from behind , and tried a torch and a wheel puller and it still won't budge, don't know what to try next.
What Ive done before to put the dust cover back on is to place the covers in hot or warm water for a minute or 2. That water will soften up the cover and it will go right back on a lot easier.
@@MowerMike very true… but… I did have a royal pos the wheels were stuck bad..I did exactly like the video and beat the heck out of the wheels and finally got them off… so I could weld the broken frame.. yes it broke again so it’s definitely making me crazy and loosing my mind..
Note to self.. used craftsman or basically all craftsman mowers are trash .. the frame is paper thin.. total joke and complete junk.. tell all of your friends stay away from craftsman.. your better off cutting grass with Scissors
@@ken3700 I have been there. Had a similar issue with a POS Ariens mower. I welded some thick angle iron right above the axle along the frames 90 degree angle and it fixed the frame. The rest of the mower is still a POS
@@ken3700 How new is the Craftsman? The older Craftsman mowers I have worked on have been very good mowers. But, I haven’t worked on one newer then 20yr old. I appreciate the feedback.
I used a giant pry bar with a screwdriver type point and it put a couple tiny dimples but after pounding and beating on both rear wheels the came off just like on this video.. so I was glad the guy did it so I wasn’t worried it wasn’t going to work.. the rust welding sucks.. only one way to get the wheels off.. beat them into submission. It’s the inside of the rims nobody is going to see the tiny dents and the rims didn’t bend.
@@jamesbrannon9594 the rear wheel on my pos was rust welded.. I put pb blaster on it and it wouldn’t budge.. then I went to find a video to see if someone out there got a stuck wheel off; and here is your video.. you have to beat it super hard to get it loose.. my wheel was so bad I had to beat it all the way off it really never broke free.. I took sand paper and cleaned the shaft before I put it back on and put grease on the shaft so it won’t rust weld again.
@@MowerMike Thanks for the reply. Had that clip off and tire still would not come off. I wound up getting it off with a few bangs. Mower is about 15 years old now Id guess with original front tires on it so maybe that had something to do with it.
@@MowerMike Didnt even think about that, appreciate the heads up. Dumb question- Would you put grease directly on the hubs before putting the tires on or through the zirc fitting after install? Either scenario, any particular grease you like to use?
@@cbdyna I grease direct on the hub when the wheel is off and use water resistant axle grease, you can get it at the auto parts store is in a little tub. It is a messy but fun job.
Thank you for the info. I own a LT155, just put a tire on it (rear right as you sit on it) everything went well but now I have no brake and my foot pedals are low to the deck and it won't go fwds or nackwards. I would appreciate any help.
I’m replacing the transmission drive belt on a JD 105. Looks like removing the right rear tire might give access to the transmission drive belt guide? That guide must be removed in order to get the belt on the pulley. (It looks like a total PITA accessing it from underneath…)
@@MowerMike thanks Mike. I watched your Cub Cadet video. I’ll be able to use part of your technique. The John Deere design is slightly different. I don’t have a lift like yours so I’ll be doing everything from underneath. This is gonna be fun…
I appreciate all the info you provided about this. My John Deere is about 13-14 years old and despite all the methods and videos about removing the rear wheels, they would NOT come off. Luckily the only damage sustained was some cuts in the middle of the rim from a pry bar a big ol sledge, some curled rim spots from a big wheel puller and chain, plus the assorted torch burns, and PB Blaster everywhere. So if you find yourself not going anywhere on a wheel that's been on the tractor over 13 years, my advice is just change the rear tires on the tractor, like I did. After all the blood, sweat and tears, the fun part was seating the beads via combustion!!!! Thanks again Mower Mike!
Working to replace the rear right tire on my JD S240 that has a sidewall tear. Hopefully I won't need any penetrant/soak routine or the big awl, however that big awl looks like something to add to my collection. I have some hugeee pullers that I've used in the past to pull of such wheels, as well (being careful).
I just removed two today on a JD been on the mower for 16 years. The best way is blow the rust out of the key slot with air then apply WD40 first front and rear to the rim and axle . Don’t beat on it as that stresses the axle in the transmission. Take an air hammer and pointy chisel to the center of the axle may need to put a diviot in the center of axle. Apply air hammer and pull on stuck tire at the same time. It will slide off like butter. And no pulling on the axle
@@MowerMike I didn’t apply the air chisel to the rim I put the pointed chisel in the center of the axle as I apply air I pull the rim and it vibrates right off
@@MowerMike well I tried everything to put that on even grease it and it was a hopeless cause lol thank you very much for that tip lol I sure appreciate it ok are u the one who put the snow plow on a D110 johnDeere just wondering lol
When putting the back wheel back on, I spray the axle with WD40, put the wheel on and spin it. That loosens up the rust. I even use emery cloth or sand paper. Oil or grease the axle put wheel back on. Line up the key way and slide the key back in. To me it seems easier.
OK, after several days of spraying and rubber mallet hits at home it moved! Unfortunately, it was the half-axle that pulled out of the trans. Im guess there is some kind of retaining clip that'll need to be replaced?@@MowerMike
Great video, was stuck myself. A little WD-40 would probably have helped slide it easier after you broke it loose. Just for reference for non mechanics out there, he was using about a 12 inch punch not an Awle. Difference is a punch as you see in his hand has a blunt flat or bull nose end. An Awle has a pointed end to punch holes, like for a leather belt. Again, just for reference I’m sure he knows the difference he just misspoke. And as he stated you don’t want to punch a hole through your rim with an Awle.
Excellent point. I am a total amateur mechanic just having fun. Thanks for being kind with your correction. Most guys are asses about my mistakes on videos
Decent video! Cleaning up the shaft and key before reinstalling the wheel is vital. I use emory cloth and penetrating oil. Anti-sieze helps. My JD manual actually says to remove the wheels once per year to lubricate the axles. Not that anyone actually does that unless they have to. I suggest using a larger diameter object as a punch to keep from denting or taking the paint off the rim. I use a 2 foot piece of an old broom handle.
If you have one that won't budge at all no matter how much wd 40 soaking you do (which in my experience is quite often), you have to heat the center of the rim hub RED hot with oxy acetyline torch, then quench it with a hose till cool. This will crush the rust and you can get it off pretty easy then.
@@MowerMike lol. I have sprayed everything I got on it.. beat it with a punch and hammer. Can't figure out how to get it off. Maybe because I'm a girl. 😆
@@stolenjunk These wheels can be very difficult to get off. I have actually had a couple that I was never able to get off. Why are you trying to remove it? If it is a flat maybe you can just fix it with slime or a plug. I have a bunch of videos on fixing tires. (It isn’t because you are a woman, it is just a bad design!)
@@MowerMike 1989 STX 38 orig tires hah, Rear, 5 days of Kriol so far, 3 times heated with oxy torch. Hydraulic push off rigged with chains. Maybe I should not curse and yell at it. Hahahha . Nest im going to light my fart on fire and blast it. Whats hilarious I moved it about 7mm thus far. I just so dont want to remove the whole transaxle. Wait am I allowed to say that word? Transaxle is there a biden supporter here that found another variant hahahahah. The new variant is limp wristed.
@@MowerMike I have been slimming it for 3 years. I'm going to remove the rear end and get better leverage that way. What rotten design this is. But have to laugh. I'll get it but what a pain. Not as bad as adam full of shiff though.
Trick works but another pro tip even if the wheels not stuck on some 80-120 grit sand paper around the shaft. To get rid of deposits that lodged into the metal Also red and tacky greese works the best for that
A thin coat of wheel bearing grease on the axel will help the wheel to slide back on easier - as well as come back off again later. The key keeps it from ever slipping.
@@MowerMike At least you didn't call the hammer a spatula. I liked your video. I have a 9 year old D140 that needs new tires bigly. I've never had the rear wheels off so I'm sure they're stuck. I watched several nightmare videos about taking the rear wheels off. They looked like they did a lot of damage to the wheel. I'll try your method, if that doesn't work I'll take my gas hatchet to em.
That's an easy one...I have turned them RED hot with a torch and beat the rim to pieces....no go. Had to CUT them off. A little anti-seize at the factory would be a splendid idea......
if you have an air chisel / air hammer gun use it would need a flat bit Pneumatic Air Hammer Bit use a propane solder torch to heat it up.. an air hammer should do the trick of getting it off .. think a cutting torch would be too much and using a puller
This did not work on 1984 John Deer R72 mower. I had to take the axle differential apart to get the one wheel off the mower frame. After all this , heating, beating the short axle refused to even budge out of the wheel. Will have to to take it to a shop that has a hydraulic press to get it out. I wasted a half a day trying to get that axle out. I had a rear axle bearing blow out thus all this work.
@@MowerMike Mike it was so bad it took my local shop an hour to get that axle out! My bill was 25 bucks. No complaints. Basically they saved my mower. Now I can put it back together. New bearings etc.
All my gear for the most part is 80's to 70's built. Still way better than anything new being made today. I refuse to let them die. It is a sad state of affairs on new product. Planned obsolescence!
I've tried this method and everything else and my wheel won't budge I've worked on it for 4 days now still can't get it off so I'm gonna scrap the mower just tired of it.
Check out my next video scrapping mowers is a good time. You can always try and get the tire off and put a tub in it without removing the wheel. I know the frustration though they get frooze up on there.
I wish mine came off that easy, I've been spraying and beating this thing for two days, won't budget, i've even been driving it for two days without no clip on it and it still won't come off
Cleaning the rust off the axle before mounting the rim back on is key, a simple wire wheel on a drill only takes a couple minutes, then a dab of anti-seize will prevent it from sticking again
I had one just recently, no matter what I did (WD40 over a few days or tapping like this using similar tools) would budge it. I had to pull the transmission to change oil so I repeated everything done previously (on the mower) on the bench and still no good! I was lucky enough to get another wheel and hub key cheaply and out of frustration I drilled around the wheel centre so as to split it from the keyed hub. Then with the transmission on the bench (keyed hub in a vice), got my angle grinder and a 1mm cut off wheel and cut along the key way until it touched the key. Tried with cold chisel and BFH to get it to move. NO WAY Jose!! I changed the angle grinder wheel to a grinding disc and ground down the hub to the top of the key. WD40 again, tap tap tap etc around the hub. STILL NO Good! I turned the hub 180 degrees in the vice and changed to the 1mm cut off wheel again and very carefully cut down the back of the hub stopping just off the transmission axle. Tap, tap, tap, WD40, tap, tap, tap with cold chisel and BFH, FINALLY a sign of release. It fought me every millimetre of the way off. The hub was so rusted on to the axle that once off, I had to wire bush and hand sand the axle with wet or dry paper and WD40 to get rid of the corrosion and down to shiny metal. I've never seen anything like this in my life. When I reassembled it all, I put lots of anti-seize on the axle.
I'm sure somebody is already said this but, dude you forgot to put some kind of anti-seize on there. If you don't have any on hand then at least put some grease on it. Or you'll have trouble next time you have to take it off to patch a hole or whatever
@@MowerMike they all say the same thing about putting anti seize no matter how many comments already suggested it , like you don't know this after working on mowers for so long , it gets nauseating reading the same comments , everyone's a genius lol , it was a short cut instructional video how to get a stuck wheel off that's all nothing more , and you have too get the Einstein's from Anti seize University putting they're 2 cents in lol , great vid !!!!
@@MIKEROADDOG Haha exactly, I am just a guy with old mowers and some big ass hammers. I am surprised people watch these at all, I am far from a professional mower mechanic.
LOL that wheel wasn't stuck, A "rust welded" wheel would not come off by wacking it from the back of the tire. I spent two days, a can of pb blaster, and a lot of frustration then finally I used an air hammer. I guess the penetrating oil and vibration of the air hammer broke it loose. The one point I would make is once you get it removed is to sand/clean both the axil and wheel hub, then use anti-seize on both then re-install it.
To install, if you use anti-seeze, the messy silver kind, that wheel won't rust on again. If the factory would use it, we would not have trouble removing the wheel. It would probably cost the factory under $1.00 more per mower more, but they don't care.
BEWARE!!!! This may not work. I know, in fact you can actually punch out the axle from the transmission before the wheel will release from the axle. Other UA-camrs have reported the same thing. I've tried soaking the axle for several weeks with PB Blaster, Heated the Rim both front and rear, use a BFH on the axle, a wheel puller, and even flattened the tire and jammed behind the tire wood blocks and reinflated to 70+ psi to force it off the axle with no success. I've even tried what one youtuber suggested; using a pneumatic Air Hammer on the axle to force the axle in as you exert outward pressure on the wheel. to no avail. I've got one friggin stuck wheel. I've know cut the tire off the wheel and will attempt to mount the new tire on while still on the tractor, and never put the dad gum c-clip back on hiopen someday this rim will fall off on its own... wishful thinking, I know!
I have been there and can relate to the frustration. Eventually you just have to give up and put some slime in the tire or take it off while it is still on. Good luck!
Be careful doing this..I have ruined two JD trans axels by hitting to hard and shearing the snap ring that retains the axel in the differential...Replacing that is beyond most home owners...If light taps wont budge the wheels...so yourself a huge favor and go rent a puller
Had the same problem. Soaked both back wheels in Kroil and waited a day. Jacked, pulled, sweated and cussed til I just gave out. Got on UA-cam and watched your video. Next day I got one of my Dad's old rusty punches and a hammer and in 15 minutes had both back wheels off. Got so excited I put one of the new wheels on backwards. You saved the dsy. Thank you!!
Makes my day to hear that, glad I could help
BOOM! Exactly what I needed. SHORT AND SWEET! Thank you so much! liked, subscribed, hit the notification bell.
Glad it worked out those stuck wheels can be a PIA. Strap in it could get weird
Thank you! I got out a big hammer as you suggested and used a giant old dull drill bit I had instead of the awl - bang bang bang a few times and the wheel came off, hurrah. Puncture repaired and tyre re-inflated and back on. very grateful for your advice and demo.
Nice well done!
Hey guys here is an old shade tree mechanic if you have a tire that keeps leaking air, put a cup of burnt motor oil in the tire it forces the rubber to expand inside the tire and that makes the rubber seal itself.
I've taught many people this trick, and I've had many people tell me this trick will not work. But it happens to be on a Sunday and they don't want to take the 32 mi trip to town and still want to get the mowing done!
And at the end of the mowing season that tire is still aired up for most people depending on how bad the tire is. ( This repair is for dry rotted tires) not if you got a nail in your tire.
If the beed is broken poor a cup in that way if the beed is not broken remove the valve stem center and try to poor your oil in that way ( spray bottle) then put the valve core back in and air it back up and spin it around then put it on the mower and run the mower around for about 15 minutes this will help to seal up the leaks.
You can even use transmission fluid if that's all you have.
I've done this to a few of my vehicle's just to make it to pay day and it does indeed works!- at least it worked for me and now I pass this knowledge on to you.
I'm 100% disabled unfortunately so I have to make every penny count and when I find a way to help me save money I pass the knowledge on to others because they are probably in the same boat as me,on a limit income.
I truly hope that you found this useful thank you for reading 😊
When I put mine back together I put a little anti seize on the shaft. Makes it easier to come back off in the future.
Good call I like it!
thank you - I did this as soon as the wheel popped out
Good job, however, I like to use anti seize on the shaft as I put wheel back on the axle,
I would too
I couldn't even get started. "Remove the cap (A) from the end of the axle hub," says the manual. "I'm fkn trying" sez I. It's around freezing here and the plastic was hard. Decided to hit YT and this vid was just what I needed.
A heat gun did the trick - derp. Seems obvious in retrospect. Had all required tools on hand including an inherited drift that looks just like the one in the vid, and a short-handled 2-lb sledgehammer I call Li'l Mr. Fixit.
Never got to use them. My wheel came off without a fight. No complaints. Thanks again.
Haha Mr Fixit. Great name!
Thanks for a good, to the point, very helpful video.
I used a 1”x”2”. Both wheels off in a few minutes!
Great video. You can also use a hot cup of water to make the dust cap soft.
Excellent point probably a lot safer
I power wire brush till nice and shiny, and wire brush in the wheel. Then add some bearing grease on shaft and in wheel. Slides like butter , and prevents it from rusting on for next time. Great video 👍
Damn good idear
Awesome instruction! Love the tool nomenclature (lol, I said tool).
Haha yep tools are great.
Heh Heh!
Great video. I liked the bfh. I ended up using a 2x4 block and a sledge hammer.
Haha glad you got the BFH term
Thanks Man. God Bless Texas!
Haha I gotcha ya! Glad it helped
Thank you man, I was loosing my cool. this helped me a lot. God Bless!
Great they can be a bear to get off.
Thanks , Mike ! That is exactly what I needed to know!
You got it!
Thank you sir ! 😀
Used my jack handle for a punch
Haha that is some quick thinking
Mine is stuck worse than that , i tried hitting from behind , and tried a torch and a wheel puller and it still won't budge, don't know what to try next.
Man honestly I would just try fixing the tire on the mower if it is that stuck. Maybe try some slime or patches. I have some great tire videos.
What Ive done before to put the dust cover back on is to place the covers in hot or warm water for a minute or 2. That water will soften up the cover and it will go right back on a lot easier.
A heat gun also works.
Thank u sir very helpful.
Thank you… I just needed proof I wasn’t crazy or lost my mind..
Hmmm this video doesn’t prove either of those lol
@@MowerMike very true… but… I did have a royal pos the wheels were stuck bad..I did exactly like the video and beat the heck out of the wheels and finally got them off… so I could weld the broken frame.. yes it broke again so it’s definitely making me crazy and loosing my mind..
Note to self.. used craftsman or basically all craftsman mowers are trash .. the frame is paper thin.. total joke and complete junk.. tell all of your friends stay away from craftsman.. your better off cutting grass with Scissors
@@ken3700 I have been there. Had a similar issue with a POS Ariens mower. I welded some thick angle iron right above the axle along the frames 90 degree angle and it fixed the frame. The rest of the mower is still a POS
@@ken3700 How new is the Craftsman? The older Craftsman mowers I have worked on have been very good mowers. But, I haven’t worked on one newer then 20yr old. I appreciate the feedback.
Thanks for showing this. I'll try it. I had the idea correct. Just using the wrong size hammer 😁
Haha nice!
Great video man saved a bunch of trouble. Thanks.
Glad it worked out, that is about the worse design ever!
To prevent damaging the wheel, I recommend using a piece of 2x4 to bang on against the wheel.
Hmm excellent advice! Thanks
I used a giant pry bar with a screwdriver type point and it put a couple tiny dimples but after pounding and beating on both rear wheels the came off just like on this video.. so I was glad the guy did it so I wasn’t worried it wasn’t going to work.. the rust welding sucks.. only one way to get the wheels off.. beat them into submission. It’s the inside of the rims nobody is going to see the tiny dents and the rims didn’t bend.
Why not use WD40 before you start beating?
@@jamesbrannon9594 the rear wheel on my pos was rust welded.. I put pb blaster on it and it wouldn’t budge.. then I went to find a video to see if someone out there got a stuck wheel off; and here is your video.. you have to beat it super hard to get it loose.. my wheel was so bad I had to beat it all the way off it really never broke free.. I took sand paper and cleaned the shaft before I put it back on and put grease on the shaft so it won’t rust weld again.
@@jamesbrannon9594 That doesn't always help either James.
Thanks for the video. Know how to get the fronts off? Seems the "cap" at the end of the hub does not allow the washer and then tire off.
It is just a little clip you slide off the hub. Get a flat heat screw driver and pop it off to the side and the wheel slides off.
@@MowerMike Thanks for the reply. Had that clip off and tire still would not come off. I wound up getting it off with a few bangs. Mower is about 15 years old now Id guess with original front tires on it so maybe that had something to do with it.
@@cbdyna Well done, make sure to put some grease on the axle when you put it back on.
@@MowerMike Didnt even think about that, appreciate the heads up. Dumb question- Would you put grease directly on the hubs before putting the tires on or through the zirc fitting after install? Either scenario, any particular grease you like to use?
@@cbdyna I grease direct on the hub when the wheel is off and use water resistant axle grease, you can get it at the auto parts store is in a little tub. It is a messy but fun job.
Awesome video. I like your style.
Thanks brother!
Thanks ! Just what I needed. Same problem with a Honda tractor mower.
Glad it helped
TY, worked great without having to use a torch or puller.
Get’r done sir!
Groovy man! Thanks for the tips.
Groovy! Haha first time that word has been used here well done
Awesome! Thanks for sharing.
Sure thing hope it helped.
you just saved me, was absolutely fuming 😂
I have been there, glad it helped.
Thank you very much great video
Glad it helped. I know how frustrating those wheels are to take off.
Great post, one might concider the keys inside the rear-end could break the housing if the tires on to tight.
What is the BFH stand for?
Big F’n Hammer! A
Thank you
Glad it helped
thank you. it sure did help..
Glad it helped
You are the bomb. MIKE.
Thanks, so are you!
Thank you for the info. I own a LT155, just put a tire on it (rear right as you sit on it) everything went well but now I have no brake and my foot pedals are low to the deck and it won't go fwds or nackwards. I would appreciate any help.
I suggest looking under it and making sure the belts are tight
You let the key way fall out
I’m replacing the transmission drive belt on a JD 105. Looks like removing the right rear tire might give access to the transmission drive belt guide? That guide must be removed in order to get the belt on the pulley. (It looks like a total PITA accessing it from underneath…)
It is a total PIA. Check out this video it shows the removal of that guide. Good luck
Cub Cadet Transmission Drive Belt Replacement GTX 1054
ua-cam.com/video/iGPBHOT_POk/v-deo.html
@@MowerMike thanks Mike. I watched your Cub Cadet video. I’ll be able to use part of your technique. The John Deere design is slightly different. I don’t have a lift like yours so I’ll be doing everything from underneath. This is gonna be fun…
@ Good luck just take your time and don’t give up!
Lifesaver. 10 yr old wheel needed persuading.
Well done!
I appreciate all the info you provided about this. My John Deere is about 13-14 years old and despite all the methods and videos about removing the rear wheels, they would NOT come off. Luckily the only damage sustained was some cuts in the middle of the rim from a pry bar a big ol sledge, some curled rim spots from a big wheel puller and chain, plus the assorted torch burns, and PB Blaster everywhere. So if you find yourself not going anywhere on a wheel that's been on the tractor over 13 years, my advice is just change the rear tires on the tractor, like I did. After all the blood, sweat and tears, the fun part was seating the beads via combustion!!!! Thanks again Mower Mike!
I hear ya that can be a really frustrating job. Some just won’t come off!
Thanks Mike!
Any time those wheels are a beast to get off
Thanks for the video. I used WD-40 up the key way instead, and they pulled off easily.
Glad it helped
Working to replace the rear right tire on my JD S240 that has a sidewall tear. Hopefully I won't need any penetrant/soak routine or the big awl, however that big awl looks like something to add to my collection. I have some hugeee pullers that I've used in the past to pull of such wheels, as well (being careful).
I always have trouble getting pullers to hook up, so now I just grab hammers
I just removed two today on a JD been on the mower for 16 years. The best way is blow the rust out of the key slot with air then apply WD40 first front and rear to the rim and axle . Don’t beat on it as that stresses the axle in the transmission. Take an air hammer and pointy chisel to the center of the axle may need to put a diviot in the center of axle. Apply air hammer and pull on stuck tire at the same time. It will slide off like butter. And no pulling on the axle
I tried that and just beat the crap out of that super thin wheel, but whatever works.
@@MowerMike I didn’t apply the air chisel to the rim I put the pointed chisel in the center of the axle as I apply air I pull the rim and it vibrates right off
@@jamesbrannon9594 So are you saying you hit the axle from outside and not try to get behind the wheel? Never thought about that, great idea
@@MowerMike yes exactly on the end of the axle.
Cool......I needed to see this......Thanks....
Good luck they get stuck pretty tight on there
Good job!!!!
Thanks glad it helped
Thanx and Appreciated
Glad it helped
Nice. Thank You. Great Video!
Glad it helped, those back wheels are a real bear sometimes.
Thanks!
Glad you got it off!
I put the wheel/tire on the axle THEN put the axle key in the slot. So much easier.
Never even considered that in all my years of tractor working, will give it a shot. Thanks
Well thanks for that tip for getting that cap on it was. Great. To find out lol
Haha you are welcome, I take any opportunity to light something on fire.
@@MowerMike well I tried everything to put that on even grease it and it was a hopeless cause lol thank you very much for that tip lol I sure appreciate it ok are u the one who put the snow plow on a D110 johnDeere just wondering lol
@@daleschroeder8661 Haha the D110 can barely handle a mower deck, I think it would tip over with a snow plow on it. Good thing those parts are cheap.
@@MowerMike well I have a plow on mine. It handle. It with no problem lol
@@MowerMike well I have that tractor and it pulls it’s weight. In snow and it a tough tractor too
When putting the back wheel back on, I spray the axle with WD40, put the wheel on and spin it. That loosens up the rust. I even use emery cloth or sand paper. Oil or grease the axle put wheel back on. Line up the key way and slide the key back in. To me it seems easier.
Thanks bro
Glad it helps
My STX38 is in the shop now for brakes. Shop has had one wheel soaking all day (hoping for a better report next phone call !)
Good luck they can get super stuck
Shop gave up and said its not coming off. They'd have to cut it off and wheel is discontinued. Any leads on used replacements? thanks@@MowerMike
OK, after several days of spraying and rubber mallet hits at home it moved! Unfortunately, it was the half-axle that pulled out of the trans. Im guess there is some kind of retaining clip that'll need to be replaced?@@MowerMike
Great video, was stuck myself. A little WD-40 would probably have helped slide it easier after you broke it loose. Just for reference for non mechanics out there, he was using about a 12 inch punch not an Awle. Difference is a punch as you see in his hand has a blunt flat or bull nose end. An Awle has a pointed end to punch holes, like for a leather belt. Again, just for reference I’m sure he knows the difference he just misspoke. And as he stated you don’t want to punch a hole through your rim with an Awle.
Excellent point. I am a total amateur mechanic just having fun. Thanks for being kind with your correction. Most guys are asses about my mistakes on videos
Decent video! Cleaning up the shaft and key before reinstalling the wheel is vital. I use emory cloth and penetrating oil. Anti-sieze helps. My JD manual actually says to remove the wheels once per year to lubricate the axles. Not that anyone actually does that unless they have to. I suggest using a larger diameter object as a punch to keep from denting or taking the paint off the rim. I use a 2 foot piece of an old broom handle.
Interesting that is in the manual. They should have just designed it right and bolted those wheels to the axle.
If you have one that won't budge at all no matter how much wd 40 soaking you do (which in my experience is quite often), you have to heat the center of the rim hub RED hot with oxy acetyline torch, then quench it with a hose till cool. This will crush the rust and you can get it off pretty easy then.
Excellent advice, thanks
no Anti seize?
No anti seize, I prefer hammers. BIG ONES!
I've tried everything to get mine off, I'm going to try this
Get-r-done!
@@MowerMike lol. I have sprayed everything I got on it.. beat it with a punch and hammer. Can't figure out how to get it off. Maybe because I'm a girl. 😆
@@stolenjunk These wheels can be very difficult to get off. I have actually had a couple that I was never able to get off. Why are you trying to remove it? If it is a flat maybe you can just fix it with slime or a plug. I have a bunch of videos on fixing tires. (It isn’t because you are a woman, it is just a bad design!)
superb
Thanks glad it worked for ya!
You should grease the axle with never seize after that . Dude mine is sooooo stuck its in need of some taco bell to loosen it up
Haha I have been there, it is so frustrating. They should have designed these as bolt on wheels. Good luck!
@@MowerMike 1989 STX 38 orig tires hah, Rear, 5 days of Kriol so far, 3 times heated with oxy torch. Hydraulic push off rigged with chains. Maybe I should not curse and yell at it. Hahahha . Nest im going to light my fart on fire and blast it. Whats hilarious I moved it about 7mm thus far. I just so dont want to remove the whole transaxle. Wait am I allowed to say that word? Transaxle is there a biden supporter here that found another variant hahahahah. The new variant is limp wristed.
@@Farpointhold haha am rolling over here. One idea is to just try and slime the tire instead of removing it??!
@@MowerMike I have been slimming it for 3 years. I'm going to remove the rear end and get better leverage that way. What rotten design this is. But have to laugh. I'll get it but what a pain. Not as bad as adam full of shiff though.
@@Farpointhold I got the same mower same problem
Trick works but another pro tip even if the wheels not stuck on some 80-120 grit sand paper around the shaft. To get rid of deposits that lodged into the metal
Also red and tacky greese works the best for that
I never had one come off that easy using that method. the ones I get are stronger than welds.
Sounds like you need a bigger hammer.
Antiseize for reinstalling.
A thin coat of wheel bearing grease on the axel will help the wheel to slide back on easier - as well as come back off again later. The key keeps it from ever slipping.
Tried 3 different sprays to. Still did not help.
Your Awl looks like my punch.
Haha I make this crap up as I go man
@@MowerMike At least you didn't call the hammer a spatula. I liked your video. I have a 9 year old D140 that needs new tires bigly. I've never had the rear wheels off so I'm sure they're stuck. I watched several nightmare videos about taking the rear wheels off. They looked like they did a lot of damage to the wheel. I'll try your method, if that doesn't work I'll take my gas hatchet to em.
Hi Mike, that shaft really needs to be cleaned and coated with antisieze before reinstalling the wheel, otherwise great video.
Thanks Greg, good point
That's an easy one...I have turned them RED hot with a torch and beat the rim to pieces....no go. Had to CUT them off. A little anti-seize at the factory would be a splendid idea......
Right! Atleast you had fun with fire next to a gas tank and didn’t blow up.
@@MowerMike Gas tank under the hood....pretty sure I was safe.....
if you have an air chisel / air hammer gun use it would need a flat bit Pneumatic Air Hammer Bit use a propane solder torch to heat it up.. an air hammer should do the trick of getting it off .. think a cutting torch would be too much and using a puller
Good advice! I agree you don’t want to start cutting the axle off.
This did not work on 1984 John Deer R72 mower. I had to take the axle differential apart to get the one wheel off the mower frame. After all this , heating, beating the short axle refused to even budge out of the wheel. Will have to to take it to a shop that has a hydraulic press to get it out. I wasted a half a day trying to get that axle out. I had a rear axle bearing blow out thus all this work.
Ahh the joys of working on a 1984 John Deere Mower. Those things suck to work on, I have been there
@@MowerMike Mike it was so bad it took my local shop an hour to get that axle out! My bill was 25 bucks. No complaints. Basically they saved my mower. Now I can put it back together. New bearings etc.
All my gear for the most part is 80's to 70's built. Still way better than anything new being made today. I refuse to let them die. It is a sad state of affairs on new product. Planned obsolescence!
@@VintageGearMan Good on ya, they all just need a little tlc and you can keep them running
I tried it but my wheel is too stuck
Try kicking it and cursing more
Tried this already, ended up splitting the seal, now the rim leaks. So now I have to install a tube.
Must have really wacked that sucker!
@@MowerMike more than once!
I've tried this method and everything else and my wheel won't budge I've worked on it for 4 days now still can't get it off so I'm gonna scrap the mower just tired of it.
Check out my next video scrapping mowers is a good time. You can always try and get the tire off and put a tub in it without removing the wheel. I know the frustration though they get frooze up on there.
I wish mine came off that easy, I've been spraying and beating this thing for two days, won't budget, i've even been driving it for two days without no clip on it and it still won't come off
I would have put some bearing grease it helps on the long run don't forget a little tender loving care helps.
Haha I never have tender loving care when it comes to a lawn mower
A little antiseeze might help the next time!
Cleaning the rust off the axle before mounting the rim back on is key, a simple wire wheel on a drill only takes a couple minutes, then a dab of anti-seize will prevent it from sticking again
Excellent point, wish I would have done that in the video
You should have cleaned the axle off with where the file and put anti-seize on it
Damn George, I will call you first next time. ;)
Always anti seize before putting back together.
Ah good point
Since you had the wheels off why not put some anti seize lubricate on.
Because I didn’t have you there helping me out!
@@MowerMike Sorry !! Wish I was there.
I had one just recently, no matter what I did (WD40 over a few days or tapping like this using similar tools) would budge it. I had to pull the transmission to change oil so I repeated everything done previously (on the mower) on the bench and still no good! I was lucky enough to get another wheel and hub key cheaply and out of frustration I drilled around the wheel centre so as to split it from the keyed hub. Then with the transmission on the bench (keyed hub in a vice), got my angle grinder and a 1mm cut off wheel and cut along the key way until it touched the key. Tried with cold chisel and BFH to get it to move. NO WAY Jose!! I changed the angle grinder wheel to a grinding disc and ground down the hub to the top of the key. WD40 again, tap tap tap etc around the hub. STILL NO Good! I turned the hub 180 degrees in the vice and changed to the 1mm cut off wheel again and very carefully cut down the back of the hub stopping just off the transmission axle. Tap, tap, tap, WD40, tap, tap, tap with cold chisel and BFH, FINALLY a sign of release. It fought me every millimetre of the way off. The hub was so rusted on to the axle that once off, I had to wire bush and hand sand the axle with wet or dry paper and WD40 to get rid of the corrosion and down to shiny metal. I've never seen anything like this in my life. When I reassembled it all, I put lots of anti-seize on the axle.
Wow now that is a battle. Welll done!
@@MowerMike It sure was Mike. I had to go take a lie down afterwards😂.
What size punch was that
hi you forgot to put grease on the axle before putting the wheel back
How would I make videos breaking wheels off if I greased them???!
Instead of a metal awl, use a block of wood or a rubber mallet. Rotate and bang, rotate and bang.
I agree 100%. I used a 1x4 piece of wood and a small rubber mallet. Came off easily. Using a metal punch is NOT the way to get this off. Yikes!
Use antiseeze
I'm sure somebody is already said this but, dude you forgot to put some kind of anti-seize on there. If you don't have any on hand then at least put some grease on it. Or you'll have trouble next time you have to take it off to patch a hole or whatever
I totally agree, but that mower is sold and hopefully I never see it again! Lol
@@MowerMike they all say the same thing about putting anti seize no matter how many comments already suggested it , like you don't know this after working on mowers for so long , it gets nauseating reading the same comments , everyone's a genius lol , it was a short cut instructional video how to get a stuck wheel off that's all nothing more , and you have too get the Einstein's from Anti seize University putting they're 2 cents in lol , great vid !!!!
@@MIKEROADDOG Haha exactly, I am just a guy with old mowers and some big ass hammers. I am surprised people watch these at all, I am far from a professional mower mechanic.
@@MowerMike so this is kinda like the blind following the blind ? Lol , you definitely fooled me , great vid either was 🤘
Ours is stuck stuck nothing has worked
Just change the tire with it on the mower, get a crow bar after it
It's a punch not an awl.....an awl has a pointed end to pierce fabric or to use aa a scratch awl to mark steel, etc
Ahhh thanks, was wondering about that just this morning.
You could've sprayed wd40 also. In they hole of they wheel before putting it back on . 🚜
Dang it, wish you would have caught me before I put it on
LOL that wheel wasn't stuck, A "rust welded" wheel would not come off by wacking it from the back of the tire. I spent two days, a can of pb blaster, and a lot of frustration then finally I used an air hammer. I guess the penetrating oil and vibration of the air hammer broke it loose. The one point I would make is once you get it removed is to sand/clean both the axil and wheel hub, then use anti-seize on both then re-install it.
It was stuck but not as bad as yours. Good luck
Never-Seize shaft, keyway and key before reinstalling wheel and add grease to dust cap.
Ok so never seize the shaft, excellent advice no one likes seized shafts
If you're doing a job, do it right, lube the shaft before reinstalling the wheel. It's a drift pin or punch, not an awl. Sewing awl/scratch awl.
To install, if you use anti-seeze, the messy silver kind, that wheel won't rust on again. If the factory would use it, we would not have trouble removing the wheel. It would probably cost the factory under $1.00 more per mower more, but they don't care.
Yep totally agree
Why wouldn't you just use some 3 in 1 oil or WD-40?
I support you in your lube use, go for it
That shit wasn't even "stuck"
Damn dog!
BEWARE!!!! This may not work. I know, in fact you can actually punch out the axle from the transmission before the wheel will release from the axle. Other UA-camrs have reported the same thing. I've tried soaking the axle for several weeks with PB Blaster, Heated the Rim both front and rear, use a BFH on the axle, a wheel puller, and even flattened the tire and jammed behind the tire wood blocks and reinflated to 70+ psi to force it off the axle with no success. I've even tried what one youtuber suggested; using a pneumatic Air Hammer on the axle to force the axle in as you exert outward pressure on the wheel. to no avail. I've got one friggin stuck wheel. I've know cut the tire off the wheel and will attempt to mount the new tire on while still on the tractor, and never put the dad gum c-clip back on hiopen someday this rim will fall off on its own... wishful thinking, I know!
I have been there and can relate to the frustration. Eventually you just have to give up and put some slime in the tire or take it off while it is still on. Good luck!
Just tap it out.. just tap it out.. give it a little tappy
Haha, I tap sooner and sooner the older I get.
Yep. Don't use WD 39.
The site set me up to subscribe but I didn't want to !!!
Too late you are subscribed, buckle one for a good time and some giggles!!!!!
Be careful doing this..I have ruined two JD trans axels by hitting to hard and shearing the snap ring that retains the axel in the differential...Replacing that is beyond most home owners...If light taps wont budge the wheels...so yourself a huge favor and go rent a puller
Interesting I never would have thought of that. Thanks for the warning
1x4 piece of wood and a small rubber mallet removes the wheel easily. The metal punch will damage the wheel. Don’t do that.
Grease it before you put it back on
Yep always lube! Good advice