Seized Lawn Tractor Wheel Removal!
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- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
- Do you have a flat tire on your lawn tractor and the wheel is seized on the drive shaft? In this video I show you how to remove a stubborn seized wheel.
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I have been working on small engines for about 10 years now and the best way I have found is a harmonic balancer puller like you had but using a impact on the rod until it's hard then smack the rod with a hammers usually gets them every time. Great video don keep it up
Great job 👍🏻
the smack wont work on this rusty mess rustll the way
That worked exactly like that for me just today
i will try this
Here is an idea. Whenever anyone gets a new lawn tractor they should
remove the rear wheels and paint the axles, keyways and hub with
Never-seez so they never have this problem in the first place. These axles should be Never-seezed from the factory. Nothing should be so hard to remove. Plus a grease fitting to keep the water out would also help.
Now you tell me!!!!?!
MOWER 3 MONTHS OLD AND COULDN'T GET ONE WHEEL OFF. MY VERY SMALL CAN OF NEVER SEIZE WAS 42.00 3 YEARS AGO. GREAT IDEA
Tried air impact wrench, tried propane on hub but probably didn’t get hot enough, then put gear puller on wheel. All of that moved wheel maybe 1/8” on axle. Have new rim and tire for replacement. Considering a sawzall to cut off deflated tire, then a cutting wheel on a side grinder to cut through rim and hub. Have you ever had to resort to cutting the wheel and rim off?
I wonder why the manufacturer doesn't use anti-seize when they build the mower?
A LeBlanc It saves them 2 cents. LOL
+A LeBlanc I worked @ the Snapper mower mfg plant for over 30 years, on our products designed like this with keyway & clip it WAS required to use the anti seize, most of the time it was used BUT if the person installing the wheels happened to have easier wheels that would slide on they would bypass the A-S, but in MOST cases the fit was so tight that if the A-S was put on the axle it would have to be completely coated to do any good. The TIGHT design was to NOT allow a sloppy fit so the wheel would flop loosely on the axle thus causing INTERNAL damage to the transmission. From memory there was only a .002 to .003 thousands of a inch clearance between the axle and I.D. of the hub in wheel.
+Numa Newbern Makes sense. Thanks.
I have a snapper yard cruiser, z turn, with the keyway type wheel that is completely rusted on. Haven't tried heating it yet, but other problem is there's no room to hit the wheel from behind or apply much force. Pain in the ass
Many are required to by their engineering dept ( Snapper required it on many if not all ), but as I have seen LAZY or UNTRAINED, or TEMP fill in's sometimes just don't do it, or don't put enough on.
Would a propane torch well also?
I hope it does, did it work for you? I'm having the same problem, only have a propane torch!
+Grant W. Whitwam Yeah it takes a little longer though.
Thanks.
@@grantw.whitwam9948 were you ever able to get it off with a propane torch? That's all I have as well?
@@jaymzmeh4595 No I never have, I heated it and soaked it with Kroil, made my own puller out of 1/2 in steel with bolts that go thru the rim, tightened it down big time. Even tried using my air hammer, while the pullers on there, never budged.
Dam I just going to try change the tire while the rim is on the tractor
Get it hot and hit it with a hose the metal shrinks and breaks apart the rust instantly. Nice job, that thing was on there.
I have a JD L110 lawn tractor, rear left tire seized. I've been working on this for two days trying not to damage axel, gearbox etc wouldn't move. Went to Harbor Frieght bought the Pittsburgh Bolt Type Wheel Puller Set Item # 62620, along with Fluid Film my seized wheel was off in 15 minutes with no other damage!! Thanks for the video!!! Now , I'm off to get new tires and anti-seize!!!
Worked decent for me as well. Though the one side was more difficult than the other.
You're a much more patient man than I am. I'd have blasted it with a shotgun! LOL Great job!
Haaaaaaaa
as a side nore, be carefull heating on tires that still hold air, the heat causes the pressure to go sky high, and they can explode,
mustie1 is right. There should be a whole video on rim heating safety. Super dangerous.
Yep, I totally agree.
EVERY MTD or Murray I've ever had to remove a rear wheel from has given me a hard time. Yup, 2 cents of anti-seize from the factory and this video wouldn't be needed! (But were glad you posted it donyboy) Peace.
Yes mtd back wheels never come off easy so have your torch ready
I’m having trouble with my Murray wheel lol
Having trouble bit my mud rn
I used electrolysis. I took some plumbers putty and a one and a half inch pvc elbow. I secured the elbow with all thread and scrap metal and used the plumbers putty to seal around the elbow. I put the elbow over the axle added water and used my 12v battery charger and left it on there over night. The next morning a big glob of crusty rust was on my sacrificial metal.Then. I poured vinegar in there and let it set for a few days... I used a puller and while it was under tention added heat from a map gas torch.I sprayed some bp spray on it and then continued adding tention to the puller and it broke free...this rim was rusted on there solid and when I originally tried to get it off it bent my bolts and my rim a little....so all I can say is this worked.
You are the best UA-cam mechanic I know. I’ve been watching your videos since I was like 12/13 years old.
I've tired all these step and still wont come off
Keeping a water soaked rag on the shaft just before the gearbox might help protect that seal. As always, great vid!
tim jones The wet rag trick can help when soldering copper pipes connected to something that could melt, so it should protect the seal.
2 AM When I replace 3-way valves in the fan coil units in the building I work at, I cover the valve with a wet rag to keep it cool while soldering it.
That's the axel not driveshaft.
Ahhhh,the good old blue wrench. I tend to apply the heat to the bottom, I think it works a little better that way. A good idea is to clean the shaft before reinstalling, a bit of fine emery followed by crocus cloth. Not trying to remove metal just the dirt , rust and any galling on the shaft.
it will move when u make it liquid, right!
Wow! That sucker was really stuck on there. Good job!
***** have a good weekend! nice riding weather
Whewwww rough . I’m sure you’re going to clean the shaft with Emory cloth , right and then anti-seize
i tried with the puller and one of the bolt snapped. its really stuck on there.
Dang folks eather put never seize on it or have it done when new
Older video, but what I see is, there is no one way fits all stuck rims. You basically try everything until you have success...
Just be sure if the tire is not flat to remove valve core as heat can build air pressure and blow up a tire .
wtbm123 exactly
Boom
A slightly faster method is to remove the tractor from the garage, then the wheel is no longer an issue: ).
That's why you ask, "have you tried taking them off before giving 'em a quote"? Oh you did, for 3 hours, oooooh it'll be eleventy thousand dollars.😁
The "engineers" from MTD should be made to do house calls!
I agree but no manufacturer uses antizee and they could careless about mechanics or owners of there junk
Nicely done :-D
Pullers are just invaluable tools :-), i have an old two arm sprocket puller, its been so so good at removing bearings, worth every penny i payed 30 years ago :-))
i imagine you would dress the shaft with sandpaper and a smear with grease/copper slip to stop future problems.
zx8401ztv yes
Why don't those lawn tractor manufactors put some anti seize on shafts in factory?
Always remove valve stem to prevent tire explosion!
Good Video I Have Had Lots Of Seized Wheels In The 15 years I have been in Business
Applying the torch to the axle on the inside melted the plastic sleeve on the axle. There are other rubber parts along the axle. Used a wheel puller and put so much pressure on it that I damaged the axle threads. My local small engine repair guy says that he fits inner tubes into the tires without removing the wheel. As for damage to threads I guess tap and die can fit it but he says that wheel is so rust welded that there is no fear of it falling off.
I wonder if a light might come on at MTD, if they seen the DOZENS of video's on here....a little rub of never seize at the factory and they wouldn't put people through this....
I use a fork lift.......turn the mower on its side bad wheel up.....slip the forks under the tire and wheel, forks need to be close together about 1 1/2'' apart. beat on axle with punch/drift and large hammer. Helps when your neighbor has a fork lift.
I can see heating it up that much and using a rubber hammer bending the rim on the flange where its welded to the hub.
Tried everything on my John Deere 190C. Ended up removing the transaxle (tuff torque hydrostatic), opening it up, and removing the axles with wheels still attached. I took them to a machine shop to have them pressed out. When I picked them up the guy said he had to get the center of the wheels cherry red before their press could make them budge.
Before I put the transaxle back together I sanded the rust off the axles and polished them with 320. Did the same for inside of wheels using a wire wheel on a drill and then sandpaper wrapped around a wood dowel. Before putting wheels on I covered the axles and insides of wheels with wheel bearing grease. I think as long as I remove the wheels at least once a year I'll never have this problem again. Of course now that the wheels actually come off I take them off to remove the deck and to do other maintenance. I bought the mower used and the wheels were already stuck then. So much easier to work on this Chinese made imitation John Deere piece of crap now 😄.
You can use a 3 claw puller and break down the outer side of the tire and pop the claw tips over into the steel wheels rim and use the pointed tip on the puller to contact the axle center but first spray LOTS of penetrating oil down the axle all you can to get in there and help work things loose !
What a PITA but thanks for the video. Pretty close to what I've been trying with a gear puller but no luck so far. I guess I need more heat.
After I got my tire off using the same system (heat) I then wire brushed the axel and key. Then I put anti-seize compound (gray mustard) on the axel and re-installed it. Next time it won't be so hard to remove.
You also inspired me to take a mechanic class.
Thank so
lol pop lpp
When i took of the right rear wheel on our Husqvarna LT151 I could just pull it straight off, not a speck of rust on the axle. it's stored in our outhouse about 98% of the time it's not in use, I guess that not having it parked outside exposed to the elements has something to do with the lack of rust on the axle. Still, I would like to apply som anti-seize when reinstalling the wheel. I've got som aluminium paste/anti-seize and some copper paste/anti-seize can I use one of those or do I need something different?
if you have an air chisel / air hammer gun use it would need a flat bit Pneumatic Air Hammer Bit use a propane solder torch to heat it up.. an air hammer should do the trick of getting it off .. think a cutting torch would be too much and using a puller
Hi donyboy73,Is there a way to adjust the brakes on a riding mower John Deere lt133 if so how thanks
Ugh. My snowblower wheel is stuck that bad. Dont have an oxy torch. Butane didnt work. Id buy the wheel puller but theres no holes in the rim to use it. What a nightmare
2 words air hamer
3 words:
Lern too speel
hey donyboy... I bought a new rim/tire for my riding Ariens mower. it came with the 5/8 bore and the 3/4 adapters. I need to change the 5/8 bore to the 3/4 bore on the new rim so I can slide the rim in the front control arm of the mower. is there a video showing how I can remove the 5/8 bore adapter and replace it with the 3/4 bore adapter . thanks for your help
Lmfao. Heating an alloy rim with they tyre seated. "Its also a good idea to wear safety glasses" That will certainly make a difference when the tyre and rim blow your face off.
Had to do that with my sisters snowblower to install tubes. The rim didn't have holes so I drilled my own to use a puller after heating the hub up with a torch.
Great job, you are persistent and single-minded. I did not have holes in the rim to use a puller, but I wish I did! I ended up making a sledge hammer slamming rig, using a 6 foot length of 1.5" steel pipe, a jack stand, and a full size 10 pound sledge hammer with a three foot handle. I stuck one end of the pipe in the hub hollow inside the stuck wheel. The other end of the pipe I supported with the jack stand at its lowest position. I had to slightly angle the pipe because the transaxle was in the way. Then I began slamming the end of the pipe with the sledge. After half an hour of slamming (with many wind breaks) the wheel had moved half an inch, whereas before with the baby sledge it had not moved at all. I figure it f I do half an inch a day it will be off in a week. It reminds me of Alan Ladd and Van Heflin chopping the big tree stump in the movie Shane, or similarly, Clint Eastwood and Michael Moriarty breaking up the boulder in Pale Rider. I don't care if I bust the transaxle, because I am replacing it, it went bad at 180 hours.
I think that you could just drill 2 holes and then use the puller.
Seized wheels are a challenge, but hitting with a hammer is more likely to break off the C clip inside the trans than remove a wheel that is stuck that badly
Dan, Thanks for the nice video. This was useful. The right rear wheel in my Sears Lawn tractor has seized up. I need to take it out to put in new brake pads.
Where can I buy the puller you used in the video? That seems to be better than what I have ordered from Home Depot.
Any auto zone or car parts place has those. Not too expensive either
Harbor Freight. 17.99
I have 4 stuck wheels and a gear puller like yours. However, I do not have torches available.
Clean the shaft with fine sandpaper or a wire brush, then put the anti seize on the shaft. Clean the inside of the wheel as well and put aiti seize on it.
Clear, well spoken. Very helpful.
in some cases like this issue after heating that wheel collar you can hit the shaft with air in a can tuned upside down to quick chill the shaft to shrink it. works for stuck bearings too and needs less of the big hammer
when you get it red hot just press on the lever & it will come right off
Wow, that was very helpful. My exact problem. Don't have a torch but a small blow torch and now going to dealer to find wheel puller. Tractor is stuck on a hill in the yard and unable to get to my workshop, so have some challenges...
I have the same issue. Paid $20 for a wheel puller. Bent the wheel puller and 2 bolts. Still cannot get the rim off.
I'm surprised that you didn't start cussing!!! Hahaha 😂😂😂
I use my impact gun on the axle shaft while putting outward pressure on the wheel
So all I need to use is my accedilen torch ? I think I have three of them in my normal household garage
I used little quarter inch bolts like that through the rim and one of them broke and shot across the yard
I just use a puller kit and penetrating fluid. The holes in the wheel are for using a puller.
I had the same problem on one of my old tractors (97). Never had one stick that bad before. I use penetrating oil let it sit & then reapplied then some heat and a BIG hammer. This is had worked in the past, but not this time. My next step was to split the transmission to replace a clip ring. Glad you made out better. Pete’s recommendation about not using gas by tank is a good warning though.
Good video, keep safe. Joe
i just penatrating fluid and used 2x2 and a hammer and hammered wheel off
Nothing left out, great video for wheel removal.
thank you. just what I needed. bless you
you go donyboy , that's how you get er dun , GREAT VIDEO !
I can't do mine that way the tires are still good can't let the air out cause I don't have a air pump
Most people do not have access to that type of torch so try another way to show how to take it off if you're a d I y
Thanks for the tips and tricks
Can I use a propane torch I don't have a settling torch
Totally ridiculous to have to go through so much effort to simply remove a wheel. Burning the paint off the rim heating it red hot (twice), risking the shaft seal. The shaft seal job may be another ridiculous job like this one. The average homeowner likely doesn't even have a torch and puller. No wonder I see so many junked mowers abandoned. With shop rates as high as they are and difficult maintenance, people must consider them disposable.
It is ridiculous, but I think the big takeaway is this probably doesnt happen if you actually do the suggested maintenance in the manual. I'm working on a snowblower wheel thats stuck on because it's never been removed, EVER. the manual says to take them off and grease every year. Most people just don't do any routine maintenance other than oil changes and this happens
i have had great luck with the 50/50 acetone,transmission fluid mix.
Don't you mean (axle) shafts?
GREAT VIDEO BUT YOU DIDN'T MENTION THAT THE KEY AND KEYWAYS COULD GET MISALIGNED AND SHEARED KEY. GUESS I'LL FIND OUT WHEN I GET WHEEL OFF. THIS CAN SEIZE WHEEL.
Those MTD axles don't have keys. They have two flat sides that correspond with flat spots in the wheel.
Under what authority did you seize the wheel?
Never!
Change 2 rotted tires. Stopped trying and remove rim. Removed the tire off the rim on Murry riding mower. Used wood clamp to squeeze the old tire and WD40 and rubber hammer popped the tire off the rim. used a rope and stick to put the new tire beads to seat on the rim
Maybe
Rim was damaged drill 3 holes and use a wheel puller.
This helped a lot thanks so much
Hehe. Axle comes out of rear end instead of wheel coming off shaft. If you hit it from the back. I’ll stick with the puller.
Don my method of keeping this from becoming an issue is as followes. a) plan ahead for corrosion at this mating. b) before corrosion takes hold, remove wheel, clean & dry axle and wheel hub. *c) now reassemble using ample, "removable" Loctite, ( blue ), DONE. The " predetermined " hold strength at this mating remains forever consistent; as in "no corrosion." STANDARD hand tools for removal, ( wheel puller & hot air gun ). Tim.
Looking for a video for the removal of wheels with the design for part number 934-4282B. I call it the “double D” design but not sure if there is a proper term. I have seen those wheels on cub and craftsman snowblowers. Thank you.
Way late to the party here and I haven't read all the comments. However, the smartest way to remove the wheels is do remove, Sand/wire brush/ both the bare axle and the interior of the hub to clean out the corrosion/rust as part of your regular yearly maintenance program. Failing that ...
I'm sure this isn't original but chain, 2X4's, and a bottle jack with an adapter slightly smaller than the axle diameter might work. Use 2X4's( one above the axle, one below the axle ) on the back side of the tire/rim. Wrap the chain tightly across the 2X4's and the base of the bottle jack. Use a 2X4 on the base of the horizontal bottle jack to protect it. Take up the tension with the adapter resting on the jack head and the axle. Block up the bottle jack to make it easier to align. Liberally use your favourite penetrating oil, then crank the jack. If the wheel moves - Great! you're done! If not, more penetrating oil and let it sit with tension on it. Come back later and apply a bit more pressure to the jack. Safety Goggles and Gloves are a wise precaution. As with any of these methods, no guarantees. but it might help if you don't have any of the other tools
Wow... What a job! What would you have done if you couldn't get the wheel off with the puller? (cut and replace the drive shaft/wheel???)
How do you remove a front tire spindle? My cub cadet LT1042 wheel doesn't swivel when I turn the steering wheel. The spindle is frozen up. Thanks
What a horrible design for a wheel. Why would they put a long sleeve on an axle that's exposed to the elements? It doesn't make the wheel more secure, it only ensures that the driveshaft will bend or crack the transmission housing if it's stressed too much. I'd rather lose a wheel than destroy a transmission.
Bad designs aside, soaking it with WD-40 for several hours and holding the other wheel or a trailer hitch firmly and safely, giving the wheel a few solid kicks with a sturdy work boot has been a reliable way to remove tires from most of the equipment and vehicles I've worked with.
I need to do the same with a seized snowblower wheel on a used Troy Bilt that I bought. Heating with MAPP/Pro and spraying Penetrating Oil wasn't enough. I don't have access to acetylene, could you show me what exact equipment I need for this puller you used? I think I'd have to drill some holes in my rims.
Get or borrow slide hammer. Even if no where 2 attach , very easy 2 put hole and put bolt from back that fits slide hammer. Don't have torch so would probably back into brush fire and hope for best.
good vid you could pack the drive shaft with clay to save seal //wet rag some shaft will not come til red hot ///out board motors can be bad //cut the drive shaft to get gear box off slide hammer the drive shaft out of crank shaft
Tried using one of those small brazing torches. Did not do a thing. Bent the rim and bent a quarter inch steel puller that I made. Hit it with a sledge hammer until I thought the transmission would break. Finally took a grinder and kept grinding until I cut it down to the axle and even then it was hard to come off. Finally got it off. You need to grease the axle good before putting the wheels on or over time they will seize up.Probably a good idea to take them off at the end of each season and grease them.
Very good,I have tried everything, but I use map gas I don't think it gets it hot enough. The type of puller you used is the way too go I'm going to purchase one for this job. I tried other types and they don't work. Good video.
does anybody know if I could use a little bernzomatic mapp pro and oxy kit or would that not be hot enough
+Dylan Gross might be hot enough
Map-Pro will work fine. Any torch will work, even straight propane should work. It's a steel wheel, so you don't have to worry about heat being wicked away as much as if it were an aluminum wheel. Oxyacetylene will just heat up the metal much more quickly, thereby expanding the metal faster. Just *do not* forget to deflate the tire first. Never heat up a wheel with an inflated tire, pull the valve core just to be safe.
I have a Craftsman lawn tractor, but have not had that problem, and hope that I don't have that problem either. I have a puller and know how to use it for removal of many parts on my lawn tractor, and Zero Turn mowers.
Most people don't have a torch in their shed. I beat the shit out of my rear rim on my Troy-Bilt mower with a 10 pound sledgehammer for 10 minutes. It came off, but it was destroyed. lol
My brother was recently given an old Simplicity lawn tractor with a snow blower attachment. We tried for 3 hrs to remove both rims with no luck. They have an E clip and a key in the axle and wheel. So I just pulled the tires off with the wheels still on. 🇺🇲
the puller tool worked a good trick there Donny mate who,d have thought of a better way to remove a seized wheel on a lawn tractor drive axle shaft than that and of course penetration oil or a lube and oxy flame does also help aid with removal too
My signature 2000 rears are just like this ! Not looking forwards to all this work but...has to get done.
Wow Donyboy does it again. Some WD-40 heat from my propane torch and a few wacks with my rubber mallet and that stubborn rim was off in 2 minute's. That is the second time applying heat helped remove a rusted stuck on stubborn part. The first was my flywheel. They should sponsor you on tractorforum Dony, I went on their and barely anyone had any suggestions and the few that did were very arrogant about it. Dony is the go to guy for most lawn and garden troubles.
Side note, don't have an expensive acetylene torch, no worries a small portable propane torch will do the job just fine as long as you get that heat from a flame to expand the metal... Excellent video Don!
thanks
My John Deere STX38 had stuck rims too (after 20 years) so I tipped it on its side and used tire irons to remove all of them---not too bad.
donyboy73 I gonna buy a lawnmower with a tecumseh engine but it has a problem when it starts the pull rope breaks whats the problem? (sorry bad english)
Most People Have That Torch Right By There Tool Box, Great Idea For Someone Else
Heat and lots of it does the trick every time for me. That and a 20 ton press. I usually take the transaxle apart and pull the whole axles haft when doing this.
It's very dangerous to heat up a wheel with a tire that has air in it. It can explode. I'm glad a point was made about the tire being flat with the tire valve removed.
i have a brgs and strt 17 hors pr that dys after 2 or3 min will stay runing if you play with the throlat eny suggeshons love the vids