Knock Sensor Replacement How To - Toyota 4Runner Pickup 3.0 3VZE Intake Manifold Removal
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- Опубліковано 2 лип 2024
- Replacing the knock sensor on a 1988 - 1995 Toyota 4Runner/Pickup with the 3.0 3VZE V6. YES, it's THAT hard to get to it! Sorry to be the bearer of bad news guys, it isn't easy! This can also be used to assist you in removing the intake manifold if you're replacing a head gasket (common) or doing any other work to your Toyota 3VZE.
Applies to 1988-1995 Toyota Pickup and 4Runner with the 3.0 V6.
Playlist for this truck: • Toyota Pickup Crawler ...
Instagram: / _rmgarage
Knock Sensor: www.yotashop.com/toyota-knock...
Knock Sensor Wire: www.yotashop.com/knock-wire-t...
0:00 Intro
0:50 Removing parts
2:04 Vac lines, coolant lines, fuel lines removed
2:29 Intake manifold bolt locations
3:09 Removing intake manifold
3:17 Knock sensor location
3:30 Removing lower intake manifold
4:29 Removing water outlet and timing cover
5:33 Removing idler pulley (be aware of timing)
6:35 Lower intake removed
6:53 Knock sensor hiding in the valley
#toyota #4runner #pickup #v6 #3.0 #3vze #rmgarage - Авто та транспорт
Hey everyone. My videos have improved a TON since this one, and I'm currently rebuilding a Toyota W56 transmission. If you like this kind of stuff, check it out!
W56 Rebuild Series: ua-cam.com/video/hfXOetLhW0c/v-deo.html
You sir are a life saver, just got a 1990 toyota extended cab with a knock sensor readout and could not find where it was online to save my life! Cheers!
Happy to help!
Just completed mine last month. Ended up replacing the injectors, timing belt, water pump and thermostat while I was in it that far. Good job Hoss
Yep we did the same. Thanks!
I have to do this to my 91 4Runner. I had no check engine light that lit up, no problems passing smog here in southern Cali. Then 3 yeas ago it blew a head gasket so I rebuilt the whole engine myself. As I looked for nicer tubes & parts from junkyard engines, I decided to get a clean looking knock sensor. My knock sensor looked old and decrepit; mind you, it worked & I passed smog. I also replaced the knock sensor wire with a new OEM Toyota wire. I installed the motor & I had 3 codes that I fixed except the knock sensor code. I've been driving with this code for 2 years & the smog test was due last month. I dread doing this job as it is likely to take the greater part of the day. I may simply bypass the knock sensor & install a replacement in an area not visible where the smog inspector cant see it, in order for him not to fail my smog test based on the visual inspection & me cheating on where I place the sensor. I don't have the time to do such arduous work right now nor do I want to spend $200 for an OEM knock Sensor. I wont buy a cheap $30 knock sensor in fear that it may not work & I have to do the work all over again, unless I bypass the cheap new sensor & install it in a hidden area. What to do...what to do?
I’m in a similar boat right now. What did you end up doing? 🤔
Great video, You did an excellent job showing and describing how to get this done. Makes it less intimidating , cause that 3.0 is kind of scary with all those old vacuum lines and sensors. Thanks🇨🇦
i used to build these engine for toyota.. you don't have to remove the upper plenum all together... you can leave all the lines on the left side and pull it off, then lift it and lay it over on the left fender. take the big fuel regulator off the fuel rail and you can leave everything on there on the lower intake too...
instaBlaster...
Do you know If you have to remove the heads to get the water bypass line out?
Great video. I did this job recently and I second the advice to make marks on the timing belt to the cams or use clamps to make sure it gets back on correctly. Also, be careful about dropping any bolts into the timing belt housing. I did this and ended up having to remove all the timing belt covers to find it. I then replaced the timing belt because might as well. But anyways as you said replacing both the sensor and the harness is a good idea so this repair doesn't have to be done again.
Keep the 4 runner videos coming dude! Thanks for the detailed steps!
Will do! Thanks!
I'm watching this 'cause I'm doing a knock sensor right now ! crap!! thanks for the demo , tho.
Good luck!
Very detailed! Thank you! Also reply loving the cardboard diagram for the bolts!
No problem, thanks!
Thank you, sir! That's next on my to do list. Informative and concise video!
Thanks!
Very good explana You did a good job
Yes. Thank you, Toyota indeed.
Very good job thanks
Excelent video, but in my case the harnesses connectors even from to the knock sensor are rotten and i don't know were each goes , I mean, I don't know what is the wire that links the sensor to ecu or wherever. 😔
Hey, I'm doing an engine swap (3vze) and I've been trying to figure out where the Cold Start Injector fuel line goes to. Can you please help me out? Of course, all my pix that I took while disassembling don't show where it connects to, just the plenum side of the line. It's been driving me nuts and I spent a majority of today digging thru bone yards, only to find empty engine bays (go figure). I believe that it connects to a fuel hard line that's underneath the firewall, on the passenger side. It's the only one that looks like it can logically connect to it. I just would like to be sure, y'know?
Edit: Thanks to you, I now know wtf the damn line is and is called, so you've been a major help already!
You mentioned you took alot of videos of the vacuum fuel lines. If you uploaded those I bet alot of people would love a video explanation!! I have so many question. I replaced my intake manifold gasket and the hoses removed. Now I'm getting a loud ticking right side of intake manifold. I'm stumped. I feel I threw the timing off or something when I got all my vacuum and fuel lines mixed up.
Hi, (1) Would you know how the engine ran when the knock sensor was relocated to the edge of the cylinder head? Did the knock sensor relocated on the edge of the cylinder head trigger any CEL? , (2)Can the timing belt be secured when the idler pulley was removed. I am not good with timing belt and i do not want to lose the original timing mark. Thanks
Thanks for this. I need to get under the Plenum on my 4Runner and it looks like it's easier than I thought it would be!
The 4Runner started leaking about a gallon every 15 minutes out the back, running all over the ground and somehow, getting into the exhaust (there is water squirting out a tiny hole in my muffler) It's not misfiring, there's no knock, all the freeze plugs seem to be intact and not a drop of water in t he oil! so it's gotta be something I don't know about up under there!
It is pretty easy! It looks intimidating but it's not hard - just keep everything organized. Good luck!
@@RM_Garage Thanks. When I get it done, I'll come back and share the results. May help others later.
Great video sir, thank you!
Glad I could help! Thanks for watching
I’m having a miserable time trying to find Information on the sensor block. I have the one that is just like this video but from all the research I have done, all the other blocks have a slightly different setup with a coolant hose attached or something. Can you help me understand what connectors/sensors are on the sensor block that we have? Thank you
Well, I know you've done this video long ago, but if read this please tell me the color of the wire that connects to the knock sensor, voz I don't find it on my engine, I've found a 2 wires harness coming out from the back of the engine close to firewall. Just the color of that 3.5mm wire I see at 3.24 minutes of this video. Thank you.
Guud video!
I've been battling a nasty code 52 (knock sensor circuit break) after hours of reading the forums I am trying to determine if the sensor is actually bad without taking the engine apart - again. The pigtail has been replaced - I know that's good. But now I'm wondering if it's something else. Anyone have experience with this stuff?
Do you need to use ORM knock sensor? I replaced mine and the cable with one from the auto parts store. And I still get the knock error code.
I have a question I have a 1995 Toyota 4Runner with a 3.0 V6 in it it is automatic for wheel drive when I parked it it ran fine headset for probably a year every so often I would go out and start it and move it around in the yard the ball joints was bad as the reason why I stopped driving it well now that I was going to drive it to the mechanic shop to have the front end done and come to realize that my vehicle runs fine other than when you rive it up to 2,000 RPM it hits rev limiter do you have any idea why it does this and what's causing it ?? I've been trying to troubleshoot this for over 2 years now and I still haven't been able to get no results from anyone
Well I did it the hard way, so far I have borh fuel rails along with the injectors out which needed to be done anyway, but I wa t the bypass block off too which I cannot figure out how to remove that
Good lookin out mentioning those washers on the fuel banjo fittings need to be changed. I think they are tin or coated or something. The FSM flags them as do not reuse but that's the only spot I've ever seen it called out, lots of videos I've seen they just reuse them.
So... uh... any chance you still have those videos of the vacuum lines before you took them all off? Asking for a friend.
Do you know how to get the water bypass line out?
I need the video of adjusting the TPS. Let me know man. btw, thanks
Hello,
i want to find the piece of metal that you remove at 5 min 39 sec.
Anyone know where i can find one please?
i use multicolored zip ties for vac lines. one on tube and one on pipe. just leave them on for future ref. looks cleaner than paint or tape. use 2 colors if you need more color options
i made the mistake of going cheap on the knock sensor...so here i go again.
What is the knock sensor indicating a problem of?
thanks for the video! What coolant did you end up going with? Mines has the green stuff already in it and im contemplating switching it over to the red toyota coolant.
I used green coolant. Nothing wrong with it as long as you’re all green, or all red. No mixing
I replaced mine, including the connector. And still get the #52 error code (91 Truck) after a couple minutes running 🤔🤔🤔
Any ideas? 😮
So I just put a new timing belt on and noticed my distributor bolt was loose and my timing was out. So new timing belts and everything else I replaced. I put the distributor in the middle of the adjustment and it started right up and was running good and took it for a drive. I don't have a timing light. So I came back from my test drive and advanced the timing a tough. Now it has all kinds of power and runs great. My question is am I harming the knock sensor or anything buy possibly not having my timing at 10 btdc. This is a 93 3.0 4 Runner 5 speed. I used to tune my old cars buy advancing the timing and driving up a hill and put it right before it spark knocked and then turn it back a touch for max performance. It runs awsome now and I will get a timing light on it soon. I don't know about these newer cars lol.
Some guys are running 14 btdc with good results on the furums.
It's a great video, has helped a lot. However, what is the safest way to jar the lower intake manifold loose? I do not think it has ever been off.
My advice is to make 100% sure that all the bolts/nuts holding the lower intake on are loose. After that I would gently tap it with a rubber mallet/soft hammer and/or pry *gently* with something that will not damage the surface. It shouldn't be that stuck.
I have taken all the bolts necessary out, and I even have the timing-pully out, it is just not budging, I was going to spray some wd-40 around it, but I was afraid it would leak into the motor. I am not a mechanic, for the record :), just trying to save some money lol
I have to change the knock sensor, head gaskets, valve cover gaskets, and top manifold gasket. FYI
@@RM_Garage Thanks, I had a rubber malet out and banged it a few times and its just not budging, it has become a nightmare Lol
did you do a video for the tps?
I did, but for a 22RE. Same concept though! Check it out!
How I miss working on the 22re
Much easier. Gutless, but so easy to work on.
Do you need to burp the cooling system with a spill free funnel after the repair?
We topped off the coolant afterwards, ran it, and topped it off again. No issues!
i also us cardboard the way you id. i also use bags for bolts and label them lol.
@Dillon Genesis if you do it properly you should also have sharpie notes all over your cardboard 😁
Hi where can i get the wire that ties the knock sensor to the harness
Probably yotashop
Just curious but approximately how long did this take?
It takes a while. And you need all parts ready to go beforehand. Probably 6 hours or so if you’ve done it before.
First time working on this engine, And losing my mind why the timing cover won't come off
Hi! We have followed all of the steps but the manifold will not budge!! Everything was removed and it doesn't even move a little bit. We've been trying for a few days with no luck. What could we be missing? We are starting to think a previous owner may have super glued it on!! HELP, PLEASE!!!
If there are no bolts or nuts holding it down, and there’s nothing getting caught up on anything else, then the previous owner could’ve used RTV/silicone to seal the upper intake to the lower intake.
@@RM_Garage UGH!! That is what we were afraid of. Super glue or something because it doesn't move at all. We've been going crazy for 3 days.
@@RM_Garage any ideas on how to remove it or where to even begin to remove the adhesive?
@@RM_Garage ...and also, THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR RESPONDING!!!
I really doubt it’s super glue but it’s hard to tell without seeing it. Try softly hitting the manifold with a rubber mallet or gently prying it to see if it moves at all. If it’s really not moving at all it has to be bolted down somewhere
What's the part # for the sensor wire?
82219-35010 or 82219-89103 depending on year
Is there only 1 knock sensor or is there 2?
There is only 1
any chance i can get a copy of the videos for reconnecting all the vacuum lines?
Don’t have them anymore but the FSM and Yotatech have pretty decent diagrams of it all
Where did you get your sensor?
Hey Michael, thanks for watching! Really recommend OEM parts only here. Check Yotashop for the knock sensor and make sure to replace the harness too.
I have 92... why change the sensor?
After diagnosing, determined it was bad. Replaced it.
I tried a relocate knock sensor near lift hook drivers side. Lasted a short while. POS cheap ass replacement for under $30. Waste of time. Lucky I didn't tear everything down or I'd go ballistic. What a PITA this looks like having to do and holy shit, OEM sensor over $250?!!! Anyone else have a better idea?
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This job is an absolute nightmare, prepare to have a shopping list full of shit to replace if the last owner didn't maintain it, mechanic will charge 650
Yet on the way down, prepare to find gaskets that have melted, o rings and seals that have also melted or hardened, hoses that have become literally frozen with time, mechanical parts that need replaced, Injectors that are leaking, fuel Dampers, fuel lines and pressure regulators that are leaking, the bypass alone is a whole bunch of shit you mine as well change because the ECT sensor probably failed a long time ago, blockage in pipes that go to that bypass, the list goes on and on
Yup, prepare to replace things - for sure.
@@RM_Garage well I actually am a little confused on how you were going to set timing without the idler pulley, then I realized you actually really can't without it, the belt will just flop all over the place and get mangled
So I ended up doing the timing job now like I'm doing it from the front, which has been also an absolute nightmare :) when I turned the crankshaft to TDC the belt started getting all caught up because it had no tension
Bruh who tf made this engine
Someone who enjoys to make others suffer.
@@RM_Garage Toyota designers, "Let's put the PCV valve under the intake manifold. It will be fun to watch all the cussing on the forums in the future. haha"
Someone who didnt want you to get in there, they also thought hey let's charge customers 40 dollars for a PCV ventilation hose
That hose is close to 6 1/2 inches, smaller than a foot, not only that, no company has designed there own molded hose for that, so that's wonderful
I hate this engine. I just put a new long block in my 1991 Toyota Winnebago Luxury motor coach. Took my time. all new vac hoses etc. Got it done, cranked it up and... knock sensor fault. It goes into limp mode. It will idle no problem no fault. But when I start drive the fault will appear. If I shut the key on/off while still rolling the fault will clear. If I stay on the freeway the fault doesnt come back on. But when I exit the freeway, change rpm/speed it reappears. I really dont want to tear this motor down again for this one freaking sensor.. :/
Do you and the next guy a favor and relocate it to the hoist hook on the driver side of the block.
Hi, (1) Would you know how the engine ran when the knock sensor was relocated to the edge of the cylinder head? Did the knock sensor relocated on the edge of the cylinder head trigger any CEL? , (2)Can the timing belt be secured when the idler pulley was removed. I am not good with timing belt and i do not want to lose the original timing mark. Thanks