@@randallpool7388what I don’t understand is that besides the bed, it’s essentially the exact same vehicle. Everyone bashes on the 4Runner’s 3vze, but not the Pickup’s 3vze. One is lauded as reliable, the other less. Were the engines actually different?
I rebuilt the 3.0 engine myself, 4 years ago. I found myself having to remove the valve covers again because motor oil kept leaking from both the rear area. I went with the blue rubber felpro valve cover gasket on this. Maybe that was the problem. I had to use silicone around the rear parts of both the left & right valve covers. It's a must to replace all vacuum lines with longer ones, I went with 3 inches longer on each. This engine is one of the most pain on the butt that I ever worked. Not the actual rebuild itself. So many vacuum lines, so many coolant lines, so many metal coolant lines also. So much could go wrong even when you're very careful & experience. Because of this, coolant leaks & oil leaks develop around the years. That's why at the junkyards, all these 4runners have rusted metal coolant lines. As a result of these leaks, people simply end up using only tap water. Most people never fix the leaks because it could be on a hard to reach area, they simply use water. It's impossible to find good metal plumbing for these 4runners. Definitely use silicone on those freeze plugs. It shouldn't be necessary, but do use it. Till this day, I still own my 1991 4Runner 3.0. Today, I'm actually replacing the clutch with an Exedy clutch kit, LUK flywheel, & OEM Toyota rear oil seal. Oh & the clutch problems on these old 4Runners is the worst. The clutch metal bracket for the clutch & break pedal tend to crack all over. Every one at the junkyard have cracks or have been welded in several already already, Bleeding the clutch is such a pain on the arse. Even when theres no air bubles, have clean solid 3Dot break fluid flowing through the clear bleeder line, it's almost like the master cylinder plunger rod needs to be just slightly longer to pully push the clutch fork out for the clutch disc to fully disengage the flywheel. Even with the clutch pedal fully pressed it, it's like the clutch is slightly engaged & the vehicle starts driving slightly. So I also have replaced the clutch & brake pedal bracket with a new last year & it worked for a while but started up again. So now, I'm also replacing the slave cylinder & master cylinder with a Toyota OEM & new Lucas DOT3 brake fluid for the clutch fluid.
This is almost my exact truck. Mine is a '92, but it's even the silver color extended cab. I've been doing a bunch of stuff to it in the last 5 years. Almost everything you've shown in these two videos and a lot more. Mostly upgrades and custom mods. Looks like the body is in better shape than mine though. The biggest project mine needs is body work and new paint. . . Someday. Love seeing someone taking the same time and care that I have for one of the best trucks ever made! I will look for more videos on this truck in the future. I'll gladly be your 100th subscriber. Congrats!
Planning on doing a personal engine check-up soon on my 1993 T-100. It's a 5 speed manual with 4WD and my parents bought it the year before I was born, so I'm somewhat attached to and learned to drive in it. I've done a lot with it lately tying to learn how to take care of my own vehicles, and even bought the factory service manuals for it, the 2004 Corolla, and the 2007 FJ Cruiser. I replaced the antiquated NGK plugs from 2002 with new Denso Iridium TT spark plugs, I've done oil and filter (air and lube) changes, greasing, and most recently I discovered that the shocks were flat since 2003, as well as the separate root cause of a quickly developing braking problem that my first time experience with brake fluid flushing didn't fix. As a result she got a brand new set of Bilstein 4600s and new braking hardware (Nu Shooz, pads, rotors, remanufactured calipers, brake drums, brake cylinders) even though the book says you can run the pads and shoes down to 0.1 mm of contact material. Got to learn about the difference between modern Toyota wheel attachment (rotor and caliper are farthest out and bolted on top, making shop turnaround quicker) and the old, fun way of having to pull a hub to get to the rotor, inspecting 30 year old taper bearings and races, cleaning and packing said bearings with fresh bearing grease, pre-loading conical taper bearings (for proper fitment/alignment/rotor runout as the wheel turns), and discovering that it is in fact a good idea to pre-thread the brake tube into the caliper before bolting it down to save yourself a half hour of impotent rage. Despite the hardship, I've found it to be a satisfying achievement to keep the truck maintained. My next problem to be solved will probably be a precautionary timing belt replacement, a radiator flush, and most importantly a valve cover gasket replacement since it's life lately has been one long, slow oil flush with the odd half quart added when low. Head gaskets already got replaced during the recall btw, and we haven't had issues since.
At 6:03 the ends of your fuel line is cracked from age/heat where goes into the regulator. Once upon a time I had a gas leak in that area. On my 3VZE I had to find certified pre-formed fuel line as other types not pre-formed will kink. (Forget parts stores) On that oil your using i was a fan of that brand too until we discovered cam wear at 290K miles. I have new 3vze Toy cams and use a conventional or syn blend oil 10w-40 with zddp at least above 1000ppm with those bucket shims. Also company zddpplus has a solution, 1oz of their stuff per oil change adds 450ppm of zddp. But check with the oil mfg spec sheet. I am with my rig 31 years. Its a 5sp manual with the 150R trans
Awesome and much neeeded content for the 3VZE! Some suggestions would be to have key words like " 1991 Toyota Pickup 4x4 " to help with search results, or "89-94 Toyota Pickup 4x4" Maintenance. Anyways loved the editing and quality 10/10! Just need to get this out to the people. I think theres very little well done videos out there and you are on a gold mine bro! Anyways keep it up man. OOOORAH! jk
thanks for the Comments and sub ya'll! Tell me, what do you guys want to see on the channel? Do you prefer no commentary or more talking? What other projects do you want to see as well!
These videos are awesome, top quality. I'm about to get a 93' 4runner with the 3.0 so this helps alot. Maybe commentary on the tricky stuff or tips / tricks would be sweet. Videos have a cool vive though with the music. Where are you usually buying your parts, just online wherever you can find them?
Did you clean out the plenum while you had it off? I've been meaning to tackle that on mine. I want to check the valve clearances as well. I've got a handful of 3VZE videos on my channel too.
I don't have a temp sensor on my erg valve. It has the threaded hole for it though. I've seen people say some just don't have it, do you know if that's accurate or if it's an issue? Also do you know if the filter in your erg modulator is something that affects the system much? I saw one person on UA-cam say he keeps cotton in it, others say the high temp is too much for cotton, others say to just hit the filter with compressed air. Any thoughts?
No valve adjustment? How about the cam pucks on the back of the heads? Geez bud. I bet your still leaking oil. Us toyota guys like to do things twice. ..dude where's my car.. ? Bro u drive a truck! 3slow gang are catching up. Ps. Check ur coolant fan .. ever have one of those Implode?? Fun times. Still my favorite truck.
Just got my hands on a 1990 Toyota 4Runner SR5. You’re quite literally an inspiration.
Congrats! They're underrated, but that kept the price down a bit. :)
@@randallpool7388what I don’t understand is that besides the bed, it’s essentially the exact same vehicle. Everyone bashes on the 4Runner’s 3vze, but not the Pickup’s 3vze. One is lauded as reliable, the other less.
Were the engines actually different?
@@desertwolf974people bash on the 3VZE generally, 4Runner and pickup
Awesome seen the old 3.slow gang sticker…killer got a 93 4Runner myself barely over 100k.
This is the best guide video I've ever seen about 3VZ-E engine. Now, I have clear ideas about what to do for my 1990 4runner SR5 3VZ-E.
A genuine Toyota power steering belt is the only belt I've used with the correct length that lets the power steering pump sit level.
I rebuilt the 3.0 engine myself, 4 years ago. I found myself having to remove the valve covers again because motor oil kept leaking from both the rear area. I went with the blue rubber felpro valve cover gasket on this. Maybe that was the problem. I had to use silicone around the rear parts of both the left & right valve covers. It's a must to replace all vacuum lines with longer ones, I went with 3 inches longer on each. This engine is one of the most pain on the butt that I ever worked. Not the actual rebuild itself. So many vacuum lines, so many coolant lines, so many metal coolant lines also. So much could go wrong even when you're very careful & experience. Because of this, coolant leaks & oil leaks develop around the years. That's why at the junkyards, all these 4runners have rusted metal coolant lines. As a result of these leaks, people simply end up using only tap water. Most people never fix the leaks because it could be on a hard to reach area, they simply use water. It's impossible to find good metal plumbing for these 4runners. Definitely use silicone on those freeze plugs. It shouldn't be necessary, but do use it. Till this day, I still own my 1991 4Runner 3.0. Today, I'm actually replacing the clutch with an Exedy clutch kit, LUK flywheel, & OEM Toyota rear oil seal. Oh & the clutch problems on these old 4Runners is the worst. The clutch metal bracket for the clutch & break pedal tend to crack all over. Every one at the junkyard have cracks or have been welded in several already already, Bleeding the clutch is such a pain on the arse. Even when theres no air bubles, have clean solid 3Dot break fluid flowing through the clear bleeder line, it's almost like the master cylinder plunger rod needs to be just slightly longer to pully push the clutch fork out for the clutch disc to fully disengage the flywheel. Even with the clutch pedal fully pressed it, it's like the clutch is slightly engaged & the vehicle starts driving slightly. So I also have replaced the clutch & brake pedal bracket with a new last year & it worked for a while but started up again. So now, I'm also replacing the slave cylinder & master cylinder with a Toyota OEM & new Lucas DOT3 brake fluid for the clutch fluid.
Amazing video! Very well done part numbers and everything to follow along! Wish more people made videos like you did!
This is almost my exact truck. Mine is a '92, but it's even the silver color extended cab. I've been doing a bunch of stuff to it in the last 5 years. Almost everything you've shown in these two videos and a lot more. Mostly upgrades and custom mods. Looks like the body is in better shape than mine though. The biggest project mine needs is body work and new paint. . . Someday. Love seeing someone taking the same time and care that I have for one of the best trucks ever made! I will look for more videos on this truck in the future. I'll gladly be your 100th subscriber. Congrats!
Best sounding 3vze engine Ive heard!!
Great video sir, thank you very much!
I swear fealty to this man
Great job
JV
Great video! Total noob to my 4runner and mechanics in general so watching the process like this is very helpful!
Planning on doing a personal engine check-up soon on my 1993 T-100. It's a 5 speed manual with 4WD and my parents bought it the year before I was born, so I'm somewhat attached to and learned to drive in it. I've done a lot with it lately tying to learn how to take care of my own vehicles, and even bought the factory service manuals for it, the 2004 Corolla, and the 2007 FJ Cruiser. I replaced the antiquated NGK plugs from 2002 with new Denso Iridium TT spark plugs, I've done oil and filter (air and lube) changes, greasing, and most recently I discovered that the shocks were flat since 2003, as well as the separate root cause of a quickly developing braking problem that my first time experience with brake fluid flushing didn't fix. As a result she got a brand new set of Bilstein 4600s and new braking hardware (Nu Shooz, pads, rotors, remanufactured calipers, brake drums, brake cylinders) even though the book says you can run the pads and shoes down to 0.1 mm of contact material.
Got to learn about the difference between modern Toyota wheel attachment (rotor and caliper are farthest out and bolted on top, making shop turnaround quicker) and the old, fun way of having to pull a hub to get to the rotor, inspecting 30 year old taper bearings and races, cleaning and packing said bearings with fresh bearing grease, pre-loading conical taper bearings (for proper fitment/alignment/rotor runout as the wheel turns), and discovering that it is in fact a good idea to pre-thread the brake tube into the caliper before bolting it down to save yourself a half hour of impotent rage.
Despite the hardship, I've found it to be a satisfying achievement to keep the truck maintained. My next problem to be solved will probably be a precautionary timing belt replacement, a radiator flush, and most importantly a valve cover gasket replacement since it's life lately has been one long, slow oil flush with the odd half quart added when low. Head gaskets already got replaced during the recall btw, and we haven't had issues since.
Good to see another Toyota lover
At 6:03 the ends of your fuel line is cracked from age/heat where goes into the regulator. Once upon a time I had a gas leak in that area. On my 3VZE I had to find certified pre-formed fuel line as other types not pre-formed will kink. (Forget parts stores) On that oil your using i was a fan of that brand too until we discovered cam wear at 290K miles. I have new 3vze Toy cams and use a conventional or syn blend oil 10w-40 with zddp at least above 1000ppm with those bucket shims. Also company zddpplus has a solution, 1oz of their stuff per oil change adds 450ppm of zddp. But check with the oil mfg spec sheet. I am with my rig 31 years. Its a 5sp manual with the 150R trans
Very nice bro wish I had a shop to work on my 4Runner nice video good tutorial keep up the good work
dig the miami vice vibe intro!
Awesome and much neeeded content for the 3VZE! Some suggestions would be to have key words like " 1991 Toyota Pickup 4x4 " to help with search results, or "89-94 Toyota Pickup 4x4" Maintenance. Anyways loved the editing and quality 10/10! Just need to get this out to the people. I think theres very little well done videos out there and you are on a gold mine bro! Anyways keep it up man. OOOORAH! jk
Thanks. I hope to see more videos like this.
Thanks for this video is help a lot with My 4 runner 👍👍👍👍
My fuel line pre-formed is by RetroMotion Sidewinder 5/16 ths ID RMi 33005 75psi fuel line
thanks for the Comments and sub ya'll! Tell me, what do you guys want to see on the channel? Do you prefer no commentary or more talking? What other projects do you want to see as well!
I think you nailed it with good video, sounds and music. Would like to see more work on this truck same format.
These videos are awesome, top quality. I'm about to get a 93' 4runner with the 3.0 so this helps alot. Maybe commentary on the tricky stuff or tips / tricks would be sweet. Videos have a cool vive though with the music. Where are you usually buying your parts, just online wherever you can find them?
Great video, my only complaint is the volume of music that is played, especially when you start the engine it is cranked up 😠for whatever reason.
A must subscribe
Any thoughts on using Q16R-U spark plugs?
Good
Excelente video
Did you clean out the plenum while you had it off? I've been meaning to tackle that on mine. I want to check the valve clearances as well. I've got a handful of 3VZE videos on my channel too.
plenum was clean as far as i know. Ill check out your channel my dude!
I didn't see a valve adjustment? Check timing?
Cool, bro where can I get that rotor original denso? amazon? e bay?
Toyotapartsdeal.com
I don't have a temp sensor on my erg valve. It has the threaded hole for it though. I've seen people say some just don't have it, do you know if that's accurate or if it's an issue? Also do you know if the filter in your erg modulator is something that affects the system much? I saw one person on UA-cam say he keeps cotton in it, others say the high temp is too much for cotton, others say to just hit the filter with compressed air. Any thoughts?
Mine has temp sensor you should get cel if it’s not connected get it from rock auto cheaper than auto zone
where is a good place to purchase new or good condition valve covers
eBay.
Where’s the part where you replace the head gaskets ???
Don't Jinx me. 😉
😊😊😊
No valve adjustment? How about the cam pucks on the back of the heads? Geez bud. I bet your still leaking oil. Us toyota guys like to do things twice. ..dude where's my car.. ? Bro u drive a truck! 3slow gang are catching up. Ps. Check ur coolant fan .. ever have one of those Implode?? Fun times. Still my favorite truck.
I didn't hear any valve tick.
That's good. How's your oil pressure . Why dose the gage read low on most these 3.0..?
Not a tune up at all, just maintenance work.
Tune ups are maintenance.