I love how this “type r swapped” civic, mainly intended to survive a few thousand miles as part of a road trip series - has somehow turned into the main car of the channel and has become Ben’s most successful project (imo).
@@blackhatch46 usually 2 threads past the nut is standard for a through-hole, but this is more like a blind hole so it's recommended to thread into the hole 1.5 times the diameter so 18mm of thread engagement in this case
As others have said you need to replace that caliper bolt with a longer one. the heat and stress that that bolt will see especially in an aluminum caliper means you want 1.5x the diameter in engagement. Additionally to this I hope this is just for test fitting and you replaced those washer with a milled spacer plate. The thickness tolerance on those washers probably allows for up to 0.5mm of variation so its likely that your caliper is no longer parallel to the rotor face.
Hey Ben, as a person that endurance races an RSX I have a few tips for you: 1. Torque the axle nuts to the recommended value (180ft-lb for RSX-S) this pre-loads the bearing correctly. 2. Add a vent to the outboard CV boots. Heat from the brakes travels through the hubs and into the outboard CV, the heat eventually causes the boot to expand like a balloon and lose grease. We use a WD-40 red straw cut down to 1.5" and slid between the boot the axle shaft under the clamp. Not sure this is an issue with short -format sprint racing though.... 3. Make sure to punch the axle nut to lock it down in place. We failed to this one race and the nut backed out just a little, ruining the hub and bearing in a matter of hours. We are considering going from a 245-40-17 to a 265-35-18, like you..... Glad I watched this video!
Ben, you forgot to stake the CV shaft nut with the spline head detent! Critical if you want to ensure it isn't backing off over time. It's a good visual that provides a lot of info at a glance
I've gone back and forth with staking. On my old autocross civic I ran it without staking the axle nuts for 2 seasons, daily drove it, and those nuts never budged. But, I think that's the difference between a car used on the track vs a daily driver. With the track car you're always inspecting various things on a continual basis, so I felt safer not staking because I always inspected it. My current daily driver, offroader, and kid hauler, on the other hand, I have staked my nuts even though I don't think it will make any difference. I think Ben is totally fine not staking those axle nuts. Now, the brake caliper bracket bolt, on the other hand, NEED to be longer!
I follow A LOT of car youtubers and I've been following this build since the cross country trip with it and the miata what 4-5 years ago. Gotta say this is definitely my favorite build on youtube. Not only am I a honda guy, but I like how it has gone through so many iterations like most grass roots race cars do. It's even kinda been done on a "budget" over the years. Great job Ben and Ben, keep up the great work guys, I look forward to your videos every week. Educational, funny and entertaining!
Hey Ben, just a tip. If you’re gonna stay 4 lug in the rear, you could do a OEM big brake kit that’ll hopefully improve your braking a little more. You would use 4 lug EP3 rotors (02-03 Honda Civic Si) and 01 Integra Type R pads and calipers and they just bolt right up! They work great and you can also get an overall bigger brake kit with OEM parts and the best thing about this upgrade is that Advance Auto sells it all lol. I have this setup on my own 96 hatch and it works great. Hopefully you see this and it helps you for your next track day 👍🏼
This project is the only one that makes me feel happy about another man's progress. This chassis is the love of my life. The feel, the responsiveness and feedback. It ain't the top notch car, but there is a soul those 5Head Japanese had put into it! Love your videos man!
Tyre fitting tip, take the valve core out for inflation. Inflates faster allowing the bead to settle much easier, then over inflate to 50psi+ to make 100% sure. Then deflate, pop the core back in and inflate to spec.. job done. Been fitting tyres for years, always do it that way for everything.
I had a 99 CX hatchback with the hopes of making it a future project car. Ended up getting totaled while parked though. I love that I get to live out my dream though watching Ben and his Civic go through their transformation.
In the future, when you press everything in, you'll want to let the knuckles bake to 200' F in the oven, while putting the bearing in the freezer. Basic physics says solids will expand with heat and shrink when cold. This will allow you to drop, or almost drop, the bearing into the the knuckle without a press. It will seat very well. Let the knuckle and bearing come back to room temp. Repeat the process for the hub. Hub in freezer, knuckle and bearing in oven. GLHF in GLTC!
Wouldn't that make it even harder to put in? I mean since you're putting the knuckles into the oven, won't the hole get smaller from thermal expansion? Or does the metal expand away from the hole somehow? I mean freezing the bearing makes complete sense (I used to do this with extreme interference fit inserts on commercial aircraft, using liquid nitrogen to dunk them in), but heating the knuckle just seems like the metal would expand not just to the outside on the edges, but also into the hole on the inside. Idk, just makes sense to freeze the bearing and leave the knuckle alone.
12:17 - Looks like you're running a 7416, or 16mm pad, which is evident because the back plate of the pad doesn't push all the way back the the frame of the caliper. Those calipers can hold a 7420 pad (20mm pad) and they last forever. Both pad shapes are usually the same price for the same compound.
This is so satisfying to watch ... New mods install and the explanation that goes along with it ... between the editing and the video quality that you guys are known for, it's vry very entertaining. Especially on a lazy Sunday for me.
5 lug hubs on Honda's are about 5mm wider than 4 bolt hubs. That's why you run into caliper bracket problems when you switch up to 5 lugs. The solution is to switch to a 5 lug bracket. I'd never use washers on my calipers like that. I imagine you could simply get a stop-tech bracket for a 99-00 Civic SI or Integra. I don't trust washers to hold the caliper square under load. Once you switch to 5 lugs, a whole family of larger honda OEM brakes can be bolted on. For example I have HRV brakes on the front of my 5 lug Fit. They're larger than Type-R (old R) brakes. You can install a complete CRZ suspension on a GE Fit. It requires some re-routing of brake lines in the back though.
While you grab longer fasteners for the brake mounts, you should look into 150ksi+ hardware. The bolt is now seeing increased bending stress as those washers don't take up any of the shear force (shear force over the THK of the washers = bending stress). Bending stress will be much higher than any shear force seen in the old set-up.
I have a tendancy to take 2 days to do my full suspension just because I'm a bit OCD and clean and re-lube everything completely. Things I learned: - Letting a bit of used synthetic oil permeate the wheel bearing the day before on most Honda... makes them literally slide off the next day. - Always inspect all bushings. It's surprising how fast they can fail once they start losing integrity. - Always inspect your caliper piston seals. (Again surprising how many cars over 100k miles have never had a fresh caliper rebuild)
Been tuned in all the way from South Africa🌍and subscribed since the purchase of the Civic, it just gets better and better🤯🤯!! Keep up the excellent uploads 💯💯
what a lot of people dont know is when you go with a wider tire, it is taller too. It will throw your speedometer off slightly...for example i had a 235/40/18 stock on my FoST, tossed on some 245/40/18's and i gained about a .3" lift, which means my speedo was showing 70 but i was doing 72mph. So keep that in mind too depending on how drastic your tire set up is from stock
Aw yeah. Better than Saturday morning cartoons! This dude is a mad scientist. I’d be curious to see how this setup performs against a non-staggered set.
As a Honda tech all I could think of when he pressed the new bearings was “oh shit he forgot the backing plates”. But then I realized that he’s not dealing with customer cars, and I got so jealous
Ben, just, no. Go and buy the correct length / grade bolts. The rule of thumb you're using doesn't account for the force and heat cycles in a race car. Seriously.
I knew I shouldn’t have drawn attention to these bolts lol, no store has the correct bolt in town and in order to get the video done, I used what I had. It’s getting changed off camera for good measure, but I can assure you that the thread engagement is safe.
Рік тому+7
Also it's 1 depth to 1 dia in steel, 1.5 to 1 in cast iron and 2 to 1 in aluminium
The thread engagement= bolt width is aerospace standard, and they have a lower safety factor then automotive. For aerospace something with a safe work load of 100lbs will actually hold 150 before any problems. Automotive 100lbs work load is good for 350 to 400lbs. Go get longer grade 8 bolts lol
@@GearsandGasoline You did right to show the bolts - keep in mind lots of young guys are going to see what you do and take your assurances as fact. Do it the correct way for those people. Anything with lots of load and heat cycles (brake components being an excellent example), always factor in extra margin. Others have covered the subject, it's up to you to take the correct advice.
Floating rotors also help with thermal expansion warpage. As the rotor is in two pieces, the hat will not cause any unessesary stress by pulling on the rotor and warping it when it heats up. or atleast thats what my floating rotors do on my motorcycle lol.
I just did rear hubs and bearings on an E92 at work and boy did it not go this smoothly. Nothing would separate, strut didn’t want to slide out or back in, etc.
You never re-use bearings. You should repack them with high temp grease as well, just fully clean out the bearing, bearing cage, and balls and pack with high temp grease like an amsoil. Good luck!
8:24 - I run the same C43 kit on my Miata. There is absolutely pad knock back with the kit, just like on any car. Maybe not as bad, but its still an issue. Are you left foot tapping the brakes on the straights? If not, it's time to start doing so.
would really like to see how much different the improvement in terms of lap times. going slightly wider from 255/40/17 to 265/35/18 surely offer better grip upon cornering with trade off of adding slightly more weight to the front (wheel+tyres) which might affect the braking + acceleration
@@Dcdc956 For sure. Althought it's implied, I just wish he was more straight forward that the reason for going 5 lug is for easier availability of wider wheels for the wider tires allowed in his racing class. But that's not what he said. Oh well.
The mountain biker in me wants to call that wheel setup a mullet! On a mtb, it's what you call when you have a bigger wheel up front than in the rear, like a 29 in front and a 27.5in in the rear.
Is that Gran Turismo-ish music I hear around ~6:15? Specifically I think I recognize this music from the section of the menu when you can upgrade your car LOL.
Not sure your class rules allow for it, but if you can shave those rear tires, they will heat cycle better, and last a little longer. Reducing the block height reduces some of the friction generated by the slip angle by reducing the movement of the block in the slip angle, and with less mass the heat distribution is more even as well. You might be able to get a little more life out of shaving. But not all classes/governing bodies allow for it.
you should have gone with Raxles... I had ZERO luck with the insane shafts on my H2 car... at a minimum you want to replace the grease with something better. My first day at VIR with the insane shafts they welded together with the boot and grease in place
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I love how this “type r swapped” civic, mainly intended to survive a few thousand miles as part of a road trip series - has somehow turned into the main car of the channel and has become Ben’s most successful project (imo).
The hammer isn't a poor man's press, it's a multi angle swing press!
agreed lol
I rather use hammer than to stress those threads
Completely portable too
Put that on a shirt
This man gets it..
A longer bolt is a good idea for the caliper bracket. Better safe than sorry while racing.
I'd say required. Proper thread protrusion is actually 2 threads for anything structural.
Def should not settle on that as a permanent solution. Not that hard to order longer bolts or hit up Fastenal.
@@DoubleDMechE Belmetric is my go to, they have literally everything for JIS bolts
+1
@@blackhatch46 usually 2 threads past the nut is standard for a through-hole, but this is more like a blind hole so it's recommended to thread into the hole 1.5 times the diameter so 18mm of thread engagement in this case
As others have said you need to replace that caliper bolt with a longer one. the heat and stress that that bolt will see especially in an aluminum caliper means you want 1.5x the diameter in engagement. Additionally to this I hope this is just for test fitting and you replaced those washer with a milled spacer plate. The thickness tolerance on those washers probably allows for up to 0.5mm of variation so its likely that your caliper is no longer parallel to the rotor face.
Hey Ben, as a person that endurance races an RSX I have a few tips for you: 1. Torque the axle nuts to the recommended value (180ft-lb for RSX-S) this pre-loads the bearing correctly. 2. Add a vent to the outboard CV boots. Heat from the brakes travels through the hubs and into the outboard CV, the heat eventually causes the boot to expand like a balloon and lose grease. We use a WD-40 red straw cut down to 1.5" and slid between the boot the axle shaft under the clamp. Not sure this is an issue with short -format sprint racing though.... 3. Make sure to punch the axle nut to lock it down in place. We failed to this one race and the nut backed out just a little, ruining the hub and bearing in a matter of hours.
We are considering going from a 245-40-17 to a 265-35-18, like you..... Glad I watched this video!
Ben, you forgot to stake the CV shaft nut with the spline head detent! Critical if you want to ensure it isn't backing off over time. It's a good visual that provides a lot of info at a glance
Yeap, forgot once and had problem with that! Ben don't forget to do it!
im a huge fan of a nice bright paint marker, ill do that to every bolt on a build that gets thrashed
Honestly, I'm excited to see this thing in action...
I've gone back and forth with staking. On my old autocross civic I ran it without staking the axle nuts for 2 seasons, daily drove it, and those nuts never budged.
But, I think that's the difference between a car used on the track vs a daily driver. With the track car you're always inspecting various things on a continual basis, so I felt safer not staking because I always inspected it.
My current daily driver, offroader, and kid hauler, on the other hand, I have staked my nuts even though I don't think it will make any difference.
I think Ben is totally fine not staking those axle nuts. Now, the brake caliper bracket bolt, on the other hand, NEED to be longer!
If he doesn't stake it, I would at least put a torque stripe on it as a visual to see if the nut turns at all.
I follow A LOT of car youtubers and I've been following this build since the cross country trip with it and the miata what 4-5 years ago. Gotta say this is definitely my favorite build on youtube. Not only am I a honda guy, but I like how it has gone through so many iterations like most grass roots race cars do. It's even kinda been done on a "budget" over the years. Great job Ben and Ben, keep up the great work guys, I look forward to your videos every week. Educational, funny and entertaining!
Hey Ben, just a tip. If you’re gonna stay 4 lug in the rear, you could do a OEM big brake kit that’ll hopefully improve your braking a little more. You would use 4 lug EP3 rotors (02-03 Honda Civic Si) and 01 Integra Type R pads and calipers and they just bolt right up! They work great and you can also get an overall bigger brake kit with OEM parts and the best thing about this upgrade is that Advance Auto sells it all lol. I have this setup on my own 96 hatch and it works great. Hopefully you see this and it helps you for your next track day 👍🏼
Rsx rotors and ep3 calipers are better
This project is the only one that makes me feel happy about another man's progress. This chassis is the love of my life. The feel, the responsiveness and feedback. It ain't the top notch car, but there is a soul those 5Head Japanese had put into it! Love your videos man!
Sometimes I turn on your videos and just listen while I’m working in the garage. Your content pumps me up. Love the channel and the car.
I enjoy G&G as they show you working on their cars, and having some fun in them. Great stuff.
Beautiful episode, Ben. Super stoked to keep following you this season.
Tyre fitting tip, take the valve core out for inflation. Inflates faster allowing the bead to settle much easier, then over inflate to 50psi+ to make 100% sure. Then deflate, pop the core back in and inflate to spec.. job done. Been fitting tyres for years, always do it that way for everything.
Crazy how the right tunes can make a 5 lug swap entertaining. Thanks guys
I had a 99 CX hatchback with the hopes of making it a future project car. Ended up getting totaled while parked though. I love that I get to live out my dream though watching Ben and his Civic go through their transformation.
In the future, when you press everything in, you'll want to let the knuckles bake to 200' F in the oven, while putting the bearing in the freezer. Basic physics says solids will expand with heat and shrink when cold. This will allow you to drop, or almost drop, the bearing into the the knuckle without a press. It will seat very well.
Let the knuckle and bearing come back to room temp. Repeat the process for the hub. Hub in freezer, knuckle and bearing in oven.
GLHF in GLTC!
Wouldn't that make it even harder to put in? I mean since you're putting the knuckles into the oven, won't the hole get smaller from thermal expansion? Or does the metal expand away from the hole somehow? I mean freezing the bearing makes complete sense (I used to do this with extreme interference fit inserts on commercial aircraft, using liquid nitrogen to dunk them in), but heating the knuckle just seems like the metal would expand not just to the outside on the edges, but also into the hole on the inside. Idk, just makes sense to freeze the bearing and leave the knuckle alone.
@@groundcontrol6876 It expands away
No one has the fn time to be baking the knuckles in the oven 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
This is great, I've been running 18x10.5 on my 15' civic SI and omg its so nice. I look forward to seeing your experience with that grippy lil go kart
One of the most inspiring hatch builds on here. Not many actual track builds of these anymore
12:17 - Looks like you're running a 7416, or 16mm pad, which is evident because the back plate of the pad doesn't push all the way back the the frame of the caliper. Those calipers can hold a 7420 pad (20mm pad) and they last forever. Both pad shapes are usually the same price for the same compound.
What a banger! Such a satisfying episode, bgm always on point!!
This is so satisfying to watch ... New mods install and the explanation that goes along with it ... between the editing and the video quality that you guys are known for, it's vry very entertaining. Especially on a lazy Sunday for me.
5 lug hubs on Honda's are about 5mm wider than 4 bolt hubs. That's why you run into caliper bracket problems when you switch up to 5 lugs. The solution is to switch to a 5 lug bracket. I'd never use washers on my calipers like that. I imagine you could simply get a stop-tech bracket for a 99-00 Civic SI or Integra. I don't trust washers to hold the caliper square under load.
Once you switch to 5 lugs, a whole family of larger honda OEM brakes can be bolted on. For example I have HRV brakes on the front of my 5 lug Fit. They're larger than Type-R (old R) brakes. You can install a complete CRZ suspension on a GE Fit. It requires some re-routing of brake lines in the back though.
While you grab longer fasteners for the brake mounts, you should look into 150ksi+ hardware. The bolt is now seeing increased bending stress as those washers don't take up any of the shear force (shear force over the THK of the washers = bending stress). Bending stress will be much higher than any shear force seen in the old set-up.
Don't forget to punch the axle nut Ben. Looking clean! Hope to see you win the championship!
Anytime my dad thinks of doing something to his hatch, you coincidentally make a video about it a couple weeks later! Loving the content!
Surprised to see this conversion was not done a lot sooner. The 5 lug brings many benefits, compared to the 4 lug.
Especially considering the amount of times he’s literally taken the whole effin car apart 🤦🏻♂️
I have a tendancy to take 2 days to do my full suspension just because I'm a bit OCD and clean and re-lube everything completely. Things I learned:
- Letting a bit of used synthetic oil permeate the wheel bearing the day before on most Honda... makes them literally slide off the next day.
- Always inspect all bushings. It's surprising how fast they can fail once they start losing integrity.
- Always inspect your caliper piston seals. (Again surprising how many cars over 100k miles have never had a fresh caliper rebuild)
Been tuned in all the way from South Africa🌍and subscribed since the purchase of the Civic, it just gets better and better🤯🤯!! Keep up the excellent uploads 💯💯
Way to go ben. Glad to see the small but very importantl adjustments.
Love watching your series all the way from the bahamas.
The upper grille part of the bumper near the edge of the bonnet needs a bit stiffening. Great video guys!
the symphonic cinematic unveiling of the new wheels was amazing
6:05 looks tight....
The nut for the axle... I usually tap it into the ridge/ open end to help stop it from backing off... pause video at 19:48
loving the background music for these latest episodes.
what a lot of people dont know is when you go with a wider tire, it is taller too. It will throw your speedometer off slightly...for example i had a 235/40/18 stock on my FoST, tossed on some 245/40/18's and i gained about a .3" lift, which means my speedo was showing 70 but i was doing 72mph. So keep that in mind too depending on how drastic your tire set up is from stock
Yeah it's easy to forget the 40 is a percentage of 235/245 so isn't a static measurement.
Awwwwwwwww that unboxing made me smile!
i love how u explain every little step u do
You guys are the best UA-cam channel about cars!❤
I loved the offcentre 166, I imagined someone had 66 first but never wondered why 66 LOVE YOU GUYS!!
I can't believe until now, rewatching this video, that i didn't notice that it's a 5-lug in the front, but still a 4-lug in the rear. Cool!
Y'all deserve a bigger shop!
Excited to see how the new setups drives
In the unboxing you can clearly see the hands of a enthusiastic car guy in it's natural habitat
Aw yeah. Better than Saturday morning cartoons!
This dude is a mad scientist. I’d be curious to see how this setup performs against a non-staggered set.
19:34 I was watching this live and that was a beautiful FWD drift lol
As a Honda tech all I could think of when he pressed the new bearings was “oh shit he forgot the backing plates”. But then I realized that he’s not dealing with customer cars, and I got so jealous
Liked and commented before watching can’t wait for this from australia 🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺
That staggered setup is huge. I'd like to see the 1/4 mile time with that much traction up front.
Damn the editing on this video was on point 👌🏻
Love the videos, keep pumping out this type of content. I get super excited when you post.
Simply addicted to your videos brother 🤫❤️
Using the splitter on the inside of the guard as a table is awesome. Makes me want a splitter
about time!
Love how this car is coming along
Been waiting for your upload 🔥
Ben, just, no. Go and buy the correct length / grade bolts. The rule of thumb you're using doesn't account for the force and heat cycles in a race car. Seriously.
I knew I shouldn’t have drawn attention to these bolts lol, no store has the correct bolt in town and in order to get the video done, I used what I had. It’s getting changed off camera for good measure, but I can assure you that the thread engagement is safe.
Also it's 1 depth to 1 dia in steel, 1.5 to 1 in cast iron and 2 to 1 in aluminium
The thread engagement= bolt width is aerospace standard, and they have a lower safety factor then automotive. For aerospace something with a safe work load of 100lbs will actually hold 150 before any problems. Automotive 100lbs work load is good for 350 to 400lbs.
Go get longer grade 8 bolts lol
@@GearsandGasoline You did right to show the bolts - keep in mind lots of young guys are going to see what you do and take your assurances as fact. Do it the correct way for those people. Anything with lots of load and heat cycles (brake components being an excellent example), always factor in extra margin. Others have covered the subject, it's up to you to take the correct advice.
@@aaronschmitt2120 Perfect, thank you.
Floating rotors also help with thermal expansion warpage. As the rotor is in two pieces, the hat will not cause any unessesary stress by pulling on the rotor and warping it when it heats up. or atleast thats what my floating rotors do on my motorcycle lol.
This is the best Civic I have ever seen 🤙 fantastic project ❤
Can't wait to see the Honda on trackkkkkk
One of the nicest civics ever built
I like that GG reference 👏🏻
I swear to god, i learned so much from this channel.
love learning new things reading Bens comments
Surprised at how many engineers we have here!
Great video, I enjoy watching your journey!
I just did rear hubs and bearings on an E92 at work and boy did it not go this smoothly. Nothing would separate, strut didn’t want to slide out or back in, etc.
The wheels unboxing clip tho 🔥
This civic is badass!
It's a big No Go!
Safety first Ben
Man i just love how sexy stop tech brakes look.
Just put in longer caliper bracket bolts to be safe.. We don’t want another Ben incident machining a wheel from a caliper bolt backing out
THAT AXLE NUT ISNT LOCKED 🥶
You never re-use bearings. You should repack them with high temp grease as well, just fully clean out the bearing, bearing cage, and balls and pack with high temp grease like an amsoil. Good luck!
This is real life Gran Turismo
I love it
Love my 265/30/18s
RE71RS
Car is looking great!
8:24 - I run the same C43 kit on my Miata. There is absolutely pad knock back with the kit, just like on any car. Maybe not as bad, but its still an issue.
Are you left foot tapping the brakes on the straights? If not, it's time to start doing so.
love it... hahah the ending slide videos, icing on top... this Ben is the wild one hahaha
Ben's dad jokes are getting out of hand, AND IM HERE FOR IT LOL
I cant help but notice the music has a “i hopped off the plane at LAX with a dream and my cardigan” vibe.
Maybe time to upgrade the Honda fit with everything that came off here!
would really like to see how much different the improvement in terms of lap times. going slightly wider from 255/40/17 to 265/35/18 surely offer better grip upon cornering with trade off of adding slightly more weight to the front (wheel+tyres) which might affect the braking + acceleration
Ben was pulling off Initial D drifts there at the end. Love the progress
Technically, you don't have to swap to 5 lug to use 36mm hubs. Karcepts makes those same hubs in 4x100 too. Insane Shafts make them as well.
That’s only going to cut 15 mins off the video and save him money! He’s not going with that route
@@Dcdc956 For sure. Althought it's implied, I just wish he was more straight forward that the reason for going 5 lug is for easier availability of wider wheels for the wider tires allowed in his racing class. But that's not what he said. Oh well.
The mountain biker in me wants to call that wheel setup a mullet!
On a mtb, it's what you call when you have a bigger wheel up front than in the rear, like a 29 in front and a 27.5in in the rear.
They’re the same outer diameter front to back
@@GearsandGasoline Oh, snap... I didn't even think of that! Thanks for explaining.
at 4:01 don’t you just love when you buy a new M size T-shirt and wash it one time and it becomes a extra small lol 😂 god I hate when that happens
Come on man... Longer Bolt is the answer. But that montage on the wheels is prime G&G editing! ... and lock that axle nut
19:11 nice locking tang on the axle nut here lol
You can change the rear hub to 98 Integra type r hub to make rear 5x114 and also Mazda axles nut
That stop tech line - bruh!
Good video.
Sound tracks👌
I never have seen a lug spacer for intalling studs, definitely going to add that to my tool box
Is that Gran Turismo-ish music I hear around ~6:15? Specifically I think I recognize this music from the section of the menu when you can upgrade your car LOL.
18:57 *the cameraman died violently inside* 🤣
Not sure your class rules allow for it, but if you can shave those rear tires, they will heat cycle better, and last a little longer. Reducing the block height reduces some of the friction generated by the slip angle by reducing the movement of the block in the slip angle, and with less mass the heat distribution is more even as well. You might be able to get a little more life out of shaving. But not all classes/governing bodies allow for it.
I highly doubt you guys have any haters.
My favorite part was the explanation about the loctite. It is like you knew the comments were coming! 😂
I prepare for the comments more than I probably should 😅
You could just get a longer bolt...would recommend.
you should have gone with Raxles... I had ZERO luck with the insane shafts on my H2 car... at a minimum you want to replace the grease with something better. My first day at VIR with the insane shafts they welded together with the boot and grease in place
19:10 the axle nut is not secured (not hammered into the groove of the half shaft).
Better be careful short ben
will you be changing the rear to 5 stud? I did a great how to on my channel
Haha Ben pulling a Gingium by running both 5 and 4 lug wheels aka the Rallyata with Scooby front suspension. 😂😂