Hi and thanks for tuning in! Our UA-cam channel was recently switched to a brand account from a personal one and some past comments were lost as a result. Please ask any questions you have and we’ll get to them as quickly as possible, thanks again for watching and please don’t forget to hit like, subscribe, and enjoy!
Back in the 80s and early 90s, Audi offered its Fuchs rally wheels as an option on all the Quattro models, from the Coupe to the 5000/200. They even color-matched them to the pearl white paintjob.
Zarrick we all go down a rabbit hole at some point. Looking at buying a rally car knowing damn well I can't afford one see the price and say well I'll book mark that shit for later. Lmfao.
Starter low budget rally car for next video?. One of my goals is rally on a low budget, i'm only 19 years and i saving to buy some kinda wagon or station wagon for traying to rally and thing as that.
Sportyish subies are great starters seeing that most come with awd and at least 140 hp. A Honda Civic hatchback is also a great fwd car, perfect for entry racing cheap. The first thing you always have to do is get some suspension and wheels/tires, see if you can find some cheap old enkei rally rims, I've always used them and I'd trust them with my life
That was super cool, I could've guessed about the material being different but I would've never considered a difference in diameters on the same wheel. Fascinating stuff
Excellent vid, I troll around the net and try to learn something new each day. Your vid has explained more about rims then I thought I needed to know, and none of it was useless. Thank you for adding a bit to my bank of info.
Good God man! That's a lot of info, but it;s well presented, and waaaaay more info than most presenters give laymen such as myself. This reminded me of weekends sent with my uncle when I was 12, and the welding/mechanical/technical info came shooting at me a mile a minute. Thanks and well done!
A good thing with steelies besides being cheap to buy and taking the hit for suspension components is that it bends but often keeps the tire seated and air in the tire. An alloy will often break and thus deflate the tire instantly. I’d much rather wobble my way to the finish line with air still in the tire instead of a broken wheel and deflated tire.
"If the colleges were better, if they really had it, you would need to get the police at the gates to keep order in the inrushing multitude. See in college how we thwart the natural love of learning by leaving the natural method of teaching what each wishes to learn, and insisting that you shall learn what you have no taste or capacity for. The college, which should be a place of delightful labor, is made odious and unhealthy, and the young men are tempted to frivolous amusements to rally their jaded spirits. I would have the studies elective. Scholarship is to be created not by compulsion, but by awakening a pure interest in knowledge. The wise instructor accomplishes this by opening to his pupils precisely the attractions the study has for himself. The marking is a system for schools, not for the college; for boys, not for men; and it is an ungracious work to put on a professor." - Ralph Waldo Emerson
I mostly jumped a ditch in my 68 Rolla at about 95 mph. The front tires hit the far side first, bounced, almost did an end over...landed with the front tires pointing away from each other. Centerlink was bowed pretty badly but the steelies were fine.
would you guys consider selling second hand rims you've got sitting around collecting dust? (assuming there are some sitting around ... most car guys have a plethora of random stuff sitting around taking up space) i would be very interested to know if you would be open to something like that! doesn't hurt to ask!
I'm looking at getting a set of wheels for my rally car. I am looking at Konig Dial-Ins and Revolution GR14 and I was wondering what Team O'Neil had to say about those 2 options?
Heavier wheels makes the brakes work harder as well as your motor. Slower acceleration also.lighter wheel is able to rotate easier which also saves fuel milage so its better when its a smooth road
At 6:00 you talked about the actual design of that particular wheel. So looking at the M-Sport wheels they don't have large open spokes, are they designed that way to keep most of the debris out? I always wondered if that was the purpose.
I believe the M-sport wheels are also able to have several spokes damaged or missing & they'll still hold the wheel in place. Compomotive TH wheels are a very similar design too.
Bent my OEM wheel on my Impreza going over a pot hole in country roads. After watching this vid I think Sparco is the way to go... not for hardcore rally racing but just something to take a little bit more that a regular OEM
The wheels that came on my car are Speedline Chrono's. I heard Speedline is a really good wheel brand and they make rally wheels but does anyone know if the Chrono model is okay for rally? Mine are 17 inch though which I doubt is ideal for rally tires on a first gen impreza.
Those are great wheels BUT you're going to find almost all gravel rally tires are 15". You can get tarmac rally tires in 17" which are like really strong track tires... Check out www.demon-tweeks.com/us/motorsport/wheels-tyres/competition-tyres/rally/#/
Would you recommend the OZ Rally Racing (2017 New Edition) as a winter wheel for a daily driven GT86? I'm running Sparco Assetto Gara for the summer and want something nicer than OEM wheels for the winter soon. Thought you might have enough experience to give a clue :-D
Thanks for the video as I decide what wheels to get for rallycross events. I've seen steelies sheer off cars at a few rallycross events. I see them as brittle. I wouldn't want to risk it.
If I was doing rallycross/khanacross and using like, used/second hand rally tyres, would steel wheels be able to run them or would they bend with the stiffness of the tyre
mud also sticks inside the rims. This causes the wheel to go out of balance. That is also why you always see the rally service crews cleaning those used wheels. Wheel weights are usually between 5 and 25 grams. it's quite easy to accumulate 25++grams of mud inside a wheelrim.
I'm pretty sure he's correct about the balancing weights. Maybe it is possible to get slightly heavier, but from memory it sounds about legit. If much more than a couple are needed I would imagine there is some issue with either the wheel or the tire itself or possibly tire mounting. An unbalanced wheel at over 100 certainly isn't ideal, especially when it hits it's particular resonant frequency.
Orderd some new wheel and realized they have oval shaped holes. Like perfectly machined oval shaped holes I was wondering if this was done on purpose so they could sell to 4x100 have room to acomodate other stud types.
Most of them have spokes but the OZ ones are bit different with the wide plate design. How would their design affect the performance. Are they better for keeping debris out? How would they affect the cooling? Are they better suited for some kind of application? ect
Those are old design, called turbo wheels, not much info about the concept, but I was reading some time ago, that those were designed to keep the brakes cool and to reduce wind resistance.
You just said softer and harder aluminum but didn’t say anything about cast wheels, pressure cast wheels and forged wheels. That makes the difference. Other than that this is really educational.
John Carder Forged is usually better because they're stronger for the same weight. Cast tends to be porous and more likely to have defects that can cause cracks. But, cast is cheaper because they're easier to make.
The only advantage of cast wheels is cost. They are the new steel wheels now that alloys are standard, only without the advantages of steel. Generally not good for racing, but some specific models might be alright.
forged have excellent attributes but also some minor ones. it's all depending on use. Ice- and Snow Rally usually they use composite rims. (usually from Compomotive) might be because of the low temperatures making alloys more brittle while composite not so much.
It is a CRIME that OZed discontinued those silver 'disc' style gravel (and tarmac for that matter) wheels in the Fiesta R1 15x6/6.5, 4x108 PCD application, as I wanted those in the WORST way! :( Are they still readily available in the 5x108 applications?
First time I found your vids and have watched Everyone 1after another and subscribed could you go over engines as in v8 vs inline4 turbo which is best I do know turbo is better for higher altitude but other than that
10:46 - you said lug bolts are garbage, but you are using some German cars in your fleet that came with the lug bolts from the factory. Did you convert those cars to lug nuts? If so, which conversion kits did you use? Thanks!
Hi Alex! We have retired all the VWs and almost all of the Audis at this point, but yes they have wheel bolts and yes they are a pain in the butt. We had not converted them. Actually the BMWs are wheel bolts still probably too? They work OK unless you're in a hurry, and the brake rotor turns slightly as you're putting the wheel on... You've probably played this game before...
It is race car. I don't have to change my breaks, and it can run pass E. It is just in case you need to make it to the pit to refuel.. you want to buy? I bought it as a preorder vehicle, so it is one of the originals.
Had big alloy wheels and hit concrete. Did just like you said an snapped my tie rod in half an bent the control arm. Wheel looked pretty nice actually.
Shouldnt make amy difference at all. The hub is what the force of the wheel is on, not the lug bolts/studs. The obvious flaw in this claim being that if it were true no cars would use them. Rally isnt magically harder on a car than hitting a pothole at 150mph on the street, which are the speeds the vehicles and tires mounted to said wheels are rated for. I'd say studs are easier to mount and swap tires quickly onto the car, otherwise 0 benefit of stud vs lug bolt.
@@TheBMWBUM The failure rate is nearly equal, but bolts have the advantage of being easily replaced. Failure usually occurs when these components are re-used too often, especially when that wheel took a hard hit. And not all the force is on the hub, just the vertical loading and rotational clamped shear. Side loads at the road level are attempting to pry the top of the wheel away like a lever and almost all that force goes to the lugs unless the center of the wheel is wide and fitted tightly to the hub itself. Check out how center 'lug "knock off" wheels function and fit. When you think about a hard landing and hit on one wheel, imagine how much force of leverage many thousands of LBS and a foot of leverage have to be dealt with. It's as massive a load as connecting rod bolts see at top RPM, just not happening as frequently. We don't re-use connecting rod bolts or most head bolts due to their losing strength after being stretched once, but we re-use lugs as if that doesn't happen to them too. Lug bolts or nuts and studs should be replaced regularly as maintenance, and after any time excessive force has been applied to them. Darn cheap 'insurance' that you won't DNF. Which brings out another often overlooked point- bolt circle diameter. With the one-wheel landing in mind, the farther the lugs are away from the pivot point of the center of the hub, the less leverage the wheel has against them. Cars that lose wheels most often have a small diameter bolt circle and fewer lugs. Going to 5 lugs over 4 decreases each lug's loading by 20%- that's a huge number. Thinking of the levering force, increasing the bolt circle even slightly gives you a lot more strength through decreased leverage, as both the pivot point and the opposing lug moving outward doubles that gain. Most people think only of getting all the space for the brakes that they can, and so are sold on small centers when little braking force is to be had there compared to the outer areas. Better to sacrifice a little area there and keep the wheel on, don't you think? If you're ever really bored, do the math on this estimating the car weight and side loads on that one wheel landing and you'll be amazed at the tons of force involved and how much strength can be gained or lost with a slight difference in bolt circle diameter. After that you'll wonder how in the world wheels don't fall off more often.
@@P_RO_ close but not really. You are desxribing torque to yield bolts which do stretch once to have a more precise clamping force. All bolts do not stretch and deform to clamp, and those bolts also require a torque angle gauge to properly torque. A wheel bolt typically fails when the stud fails, and is no simpler to replace then than a wheel bolt to begin with... Which is essentially a stud that threads into the hub with a fixed bolt head. Your hub supports 100% of the weight of your vehicle. That is why hubcentric wheels are important. The bolt itself supports nonweight. The hub face supports the weight through friction and clamping force. Copper Antisieze is the solutiom you are looking for. Protecting the integrity of the threads of the fasteners and ensuring sufficient torque without overtorqueing is the key to long live happy wheel bolts/studs. Torquesticks and torque wrenches exist for good reason.
Interesting. I don't imagine rally guys adhere tires to wheels like drift guys do...since rally drivers might actually need to swap a tire between stages without grinding glue off?
Between stages you're not going to have time to remove a tire from a wheel and mount a new one. You'll have all your spare tires already mounted to spare wheels, ready to go. Got 12 spare tires? You'll have them mounted to 12 spare wheels.
I live in Serbia. I have small steel wheels, 13", and fat tyres. I have heard that in US they have roads as bad as here. I do not understand why then people drive on huge aloy wheels with low profile tyres.
You were lied to. The roads in America that are like Serbia are mostly in areas people don't travel with such cars. The majority of roads are very well kept. You should visit some time and see for yourself
Hi and thanks for tuning in! Our UA-cam channel was recently switched to a brand account from a personal one and some past comments were lost as a result. Please ask any questions you have and we’ll get to them as quickly as possible, thanks again for watching and please don’t forget to hit like, subscribe, and enjoy!
Team O'Neil Rally School do you have a facebook page?
We sure do: facebook.com/teamoneilrally/
Can you give me the Audi/VW OEM part numbers of those wheels?
Hi, is possible to get more info on the steel lug inserts for the wheels?
Any Supplier in MA? Looking for a classic OZ but anything would be cool. Preferably Steel. 16" prefered or 17" with 40-50 offset.
I like how you guys don't say that you have to go buy the most expensive/best stuff, you guys keep it realistic.
This guy could sell me a cat in a bag, and i'd be bragging about how much grip it has before even seeing it.
Can you guys do a video on underbody protection please?
I agree that's where I'm at with my 2018 wrx
@@jack8407 🤣🤣🤣
Back in the 80s and early 90s, Audi offered its Fuchs rally wheels as an option on all the Quattro models, from the Coupe to the 5000/200. They even color-matched them to the pearl white paintjob.
I don't know how did I get to this video but it's interesting and very informative... thumbs up, I guess.
Zarrick we all go down a rabbit hole at some point. Looking at buying a rally car knowing damn well I can't afford one see the price and say well I'll book mark that shit for later. Lmfao.
Yea I don’t know where it popped up from, but I saw the vw snowflake wheel in the trailer pic.
wheely good info guys
Damn
Glad to see you aren't tired of it. Gotta stop it with the puns or I'll need to lug someone in the nuts
Husspower enthusiast I'm glad someone finally spoke up about it.
Gazerz Garage damn I missed that one. But hey, don't tread on me buddy alright?
Think you slick don't you?
Starter low budget rally car for next video?. One of my goals is rally on a low budget, i'm only 19 years and i saving to buy some kinda wagon or station wagon for traying to rally and thing as that.
Starter low budget car = used rally car. It's always cheaper to buy a used one than building from scratch.
Buy a used logbooked rally car that has easy to find spares. All those hondas, vw's and subarus. Let someone else spend their hard earned money.
Sportyish subies are great starters seeing that most come with awd and at least 140 hp. A Honda Civic hatchback is also a great fwd car, perfect for entry racing cheap. The first thing you always have to do is get some suspension and wheels/tires, see if you can find some cheap old enkei rally rims, I've always used them and I'd trust them with my life
Yossa Ruiz the real question is where do you rally in north texas?? :/
Brian Colorado
I love the OZ wheel. What a timeless design where form follows function
just because you took a viewers comment a few days ago about doing this video, and actually do it so fast, I'm subscribing
That was super cool, I could've guessed about the material being different but I would've never considered a difference in diameters on the same wheel. Fascinating stuff
Excellent vid, I troll around the net and try to learn something new each day. Your vid has explained more about rims then I thought I needed to know, and none of it was useless. Thank you for adding a bit to my bank of info.
Good God man! That's a lot of info, but it;s well presented, and waaaaay more info than most presenters give laymen such as myself. This reminded me of weekends sent with my uncle when I was 12, and the welding/mechanical/technical info came shooting at me a mile a minute. Thanks and well done!
A good thing with steelies besides being cheap to buy and taking the hit for suspension components is that it bends but often keeps the tire seated and air in the tire. An alloy will often break and thus deflate the tire instantly. I’d much rather wobble my way to the finish line with air still in the tire instead of a broken wheel and deflated tire.
Fantastic, I finally find a channel which has lots of knowledge about driving. Thank you
I wish school was this compelling?
"If the colleges were better, if they really had it, you would need to get the police at the gates to keep order in the inrushing multitude. See in college how we thwart the natural love of learning by leaving the natural method of teaching what each wishes to learn, and insisting that you shall learn what you have no taste or capacity for. The college, which should be a place of delightful labor, is made odious and unhealthy, and the young men are tempted to frivolous amusements to rally their jaded spirits. I would have the studies elective. Scholarship is to be created not by compulsion, but by awakening a pure interest in knowledge. The wise instructor accomplishes this by opening to his pupils precisely the attractions the study has for himself. The marking is a system for schools, not for the college; for boys, not for men; and it is an ungracious work to put on a professor."
- Ralph Waldo Emerson
Never let school get in the way of your education. "Mark Twain"
Maybe I will buy some Rally Wheels to drive in Brazil.
Marcelo Henrique fala aí mano !
Germany 7 - 1 Brasil
The best part of rally wheels is how cool they look
I love how OZ rally racing wheels
Especially those with gloss white finish and red lettering
The white wheel from the audi/vw is Ronal R8s, I have them on my civic wagonrt4wd
Dillan Christie as wide as ur ego
I mostly jumped a ditch in my 68 Rolla at about 95 mph. The front tires hit the far side first, bounced, almost did an end over...landed with the front tires pointing away from each other. Centerlink was bowed pretty badly but the steelies were fine.
I have a question, how much extra offset will affect wheel bearing lifespan ? Like if you add 10mm more offset ? (lower the number)
would you guys consider selling second hand rims you've got sitting around collecting dust? (assuming there are some sitting around ... most car guys have a plethora of random stuff sitting around taking up space) i would be very interested to know if you would be open to something like that! doesn't hurt to ask!
Awesome info. I had no idea there were construction differences between rims other than possible grades of aluminum and spoke shape Thanks guys!
I'm looking at getting a set of wheels for my rally car. I am looking at Konig Dial-Ins and Revolution GR14 and I was wondering what Team O'Neil had to say about those 2 options?
Thanks so much!!! I love all your videos your the only UA-cam channel I have post notifications on for
Getting a good workout lifting those wheels! 😁 thanks for the video!
Very informative. Thanks for the upload. What are the drawbacks of putting the cheaper rally wheels displayed in the video onto a daily driver?
reliability!
Heavier wheels makes the brakes work harder as well as your motor. Slower acceleration also.lighter wheel is able to rotate easier which also saves fuel milage so its better when its a smooth road
At 6:00 you talked about the actual design of that particular wheel. So looking at the M-Sport wheels they don't have large open spokes, are they designed that way to keep most of the debris out? I always wondered if that was the purpose.
I'm also wondering about that and why do they uses different shapes depending on the surface of the road
I believe the M-sport wheels are also able to have several spokes damaged or missing & they'll still hold the wheel in place.
Compomotive TH wheels are a very similar design too.
TeamONeilRally style 37 are wide open wheels tho.
Zerofightervi You make m sport sound like a good of wheels. When its only really just a nicer looking wheel
the design also has to do with brake venting. Check out turbo wheels they were designed to keep brakes cool and lower wind resistance.
My Grandma had a Passat Pointet with these black wheels, was a great car!
What are the wheel dimensions restrictions so I can buy a set that follows the rules
Thanks for the in depth video!! Really learned something from this
Bent my OEM wheel on my Impreza going over a pot hole in country roads. After watching this vid I think Sparco is the way to go... not for hardcore rally racing but just something to take a little bit more that a regular OEM
Sparco is definitely a solid call for a daily driver that sees some rough roads.
Can you remove the steel inserts in the lug bolt area? If yes how do they come out?
some rally wheels have different fitments, group "A" . "1" . "4" . etc . does anyone know what this means and what the difference is?
The wheels that came on my car are Speedline Chrono's. I heard Speedline is a really good wheel brand and they make rally wheels but does anyone know if the Chrono model is okay for rally? Mine are 17 inch though which I doubt is ideal for rally tires on a first gen impreza.
Those are great wheels BUT you're going to find almost all gravel rally tires are 15". You can get tarmac rally tires in 17" which are like really strong track tires... Check out www.demon-tweeks.com/us/motorsport/wheels-tyres/competition-tyres/rally/#/
Would you recommend the OZ Rally Racing (2017 New Edition) as a winter wheel for a daily driven GT86? I'm running Sparco Assetto Gara for the summer and want something nicer than OEM wheels for the winter soon. Thought you might have enough experience to give a clue :-D
excellent vid with important info. thank you
Terrific video. Thank you!!
This videos are very helpful! thanks.
Okay so a set of those Sparcos that you mention are "okay" should be more than enough for driving on winter mountain roads with a winter/snow tire.
What are those oz rally wheels called? What’s the part number? Help
@HaggardGarage Orion needs to watch this.
Any rims you recommend for a Suzuki Swift SPORT?
Love this video thanks for the explination guys. Just subbed.
Thank you a lot!!!!
Thanks for the video as I decide what wheels to get for rallycross events. I've seen steelies sheer off cars at a few rallycross events. I see them as brittle. I wouldn't want to risk it.
Thanks man! Very helpful!!
Why are there disc wheels & straight spoke wheels?
Most excellent indeed. Thank you sirs!!!
Great video, super helpful!
Are there any benefits of bronze wheels?
Is there a set rim size for rally?
If I was doing rallycross/khanacross and using like, used/second hand rally tyres, would steel wheels be able to run them or would they bend with the stiffness of the tyre
love those oz wheels
Heck are wheel scrapers?
Mud and dirt likes to build up on the inside of the wheels and will eat away the brake calipers. So you added scrapers to clear the debris out.
mud also sticks inside the rims. This causes the wheel to go out of balance. That is also why you always see the rally service crews cleaning those used wheels.
Wheel weights are usually between 5 and 25 grams. it's quite easy to accumulate 25++grams of mud inside a wheelrim.
Wheel weights usually between 5g to 25g? Are you sure?
Lol my wallet is heavier than that
I'm pretty sure he's correct about the balancing weights. Maybe it is possible to get slightly heavier, but from memory it sounds about legit.
If much more than a couple are needed I would imagine there is some issue with either the wheel or the tire itself or possibly tire mounting. An unbalanced wheel at over 100 certainly isn't ideal, especially when it hits it's particular resonant frequency.
Orderd some new wheel and realized they have oval shaped holes. Like perfectly machined oval shaped holes I was wondering if this was done on purpose so they could sell to 4x100 have room to acomodate other stud types.
Most of them have spokes but the OZ ones are bit different with the wide plate design. How would their design affect the performance. Are they better for keeping debris out? How would they affect the cooling? Are they better suited for some kind of application? ect
Lauri L They're intended to keep more junk out from inside the wheel. Might make the brakes a little hotter, but I doubt it.
Those are old design, called turbo wheels, not much info about the concept, but I was reading some time ago, that those were designed to keep the brakes cool and to reduce wind resistance.
You can’t go wrong with a cheap Volvo P1 or P2 for a rally build, plenty of aftermarket goodies!
You just said softer and harder aluminum but didn’t say anything about cast wheels, pressure cast wheels and forged wheels. That makes the difference. Other than that this is really educational.
7:21 what vw model used those?
Different Mk2 Golfs and Golf GTIs. The 16 spoke white ones came on 2WD Audis from that era... The Audi Coupe GT and 2WD Audi 4000s
Forged versus cast?
John Carder Forged is usually better because they're stronger for the same weight. Cast tends to be porous and more likely to have defects that can cause cracks. But, cast is cheaper because they're easier to make.
Thank you. So, I assume forged is pretty much standard on real rally cars.
I think Forge is standard on all hardcore race cars. Like forged vs cast pistons as another example.
The only advantage of cast wheels is cost. They are the new steel wheels now that alloys are standard, only without the advantages of steel. Generally not good for racing, but some specific models might be alright.
forged have excellent attributes but also some minor ones.
it's all depending on use.
Ice- and Snow Rally usually they use composite rims. (usually from Compomotive)
might be because of the low temperatures making alloys more brittle while composite not so much.
Can you still put regular tiers on those ? Or only like those spec. rally ?
Any recommendations on rally wheels for my Honda 4x100 bolt pattern??
It is a CRIME that OZed discontinued those silver 'disc' style gravel (and tarmac for that matter) wheels in the Fiesta R1 15x6/6.5, 4x108 PCD application, as I wanted those in the WORST way! :(
Are they still readily available in the 5x108 applications?
First time I found your vids and have watched Everyone 1after another and subscribed could you go over engines as in v8 vs inline4 turbo which is best I do know turbo is better for higher altitude but other than that
Can any normal tire shop mount tires on a rim like that?
Where can I buy these rims ? Also I need snow tires for rallying too?
Are motegi MR141 be a safe bet to use over my steel wheels?
Never thought I’d learn about rally wheels from Mac DeMarco
Hey, man... That white "Team Dynamics" rim you were holding... Can that rim fit on Golf MK2 GTI with 4 bolts?
Very good video!
Very good info sir thank you
10:46 - you said lug bolts are garbage, but you are using some German cars in your fleet that came with the lug bolts from the factory. Did you convert those cars to lug nuts? If so, which conversion kits did you use? Thanks!
Hi Alex! We have retired all the VWs and almost all of the Audis at this point, but yes they have wheel bolts and yes they are a pain in the butt. We had not converted them. Actually the BMWs are wheel bolts still probably too? They work OK unless you're in a hurry, and the brake rotor turns slightly as you're putting the wheel on... You've probably played this game before...
Thanks for your prompt reply, Team O'Neil!
So I'm gonna guess that the wheels they put on a new sti aren't actually good for rally?
Wait youre asking if a new street car comes with rally wheels? Of course not.
Aloominum what about 5 spoke steelies?
that oz rim is my favourite
This is almost porn.. with a 5 minute tease up to the real stuff.
well what if i rly like the rally wheels but i wanna put them on a daily? how does that work out?
Then you have a better wheel than you need. Its not gonna make the sky turn purple
@8mins ish Thats called work hardening. And is less receptive in steel because steel has memory and aluminum does not.
Great one! Really 👌🏾👌🏾🙏🏾
Would rally wheels be good for a winter set in -40c?
Not too sure about the more specific ones that pull the tire extra tight but the cheaper ones are in its essence standard heavy duty wheels.
would a sparco terra be a good wheel
Yup those are good!
How much does a rally car goes for, on the market, if I own one, that was used for daily driving?
If you have a daily driver you dont have a rally car.
It is race car. I don't have to change my breaks, and it can run pass E. It is just in case you need to make it to the pit to refuel.. you want to buy? I bought it as a preorder vehicle, so it is one of the originals.
Thank you
What do you think about the bbs rims that come stock on sti's?
Felipe Castaneda they're street wheels, contrary to what many 17 year olds believe, a stock Subaru of any trim is not a rally car.
Had big alloy wheels and hit concrete. Did just like you said an snapped my tie rod in half an bent the control arm. Wheel looked pretty nice actually.
"...it's got moth coming off of it." :D
heheheh. Extreme doodie.
vPerformance literally right as he said that I went to type the exact same thing and saw your comment 😂😂
Same fucking weak 😂
Chris Harris crossed with Kelly Slater vibes 😛
what inch that rally wheel use and size of tyre
TeamONeilRally size of tyer?
Thank for the info bro.
why lug bolts fail after a while? i cannot find any evidence of which is stronger.
Shouldnt make amy difference at all. The hub is what the force of the wheel is on, not the lug bolts/studs. The obvious flaw in this claim being that if it were true no cars would use them. Rally isnt magically harder on a car than hitting a pothole at 150mph on the street, which are the speeds the vehicles and tires mounted to said wheels are rated for. I'd say studs are easier to mount and swap tires quickly onto the car, otherwise 0 benefit of stud vs lug bolt.
@@TheBMWBUM The failure rate is nearly equal, but bolts have the advantage of being easily replaced. Failure usually occurs when these components are re-used too often, especially when that wheel took a hard hit. And not all the force is on the hub, just the vertical loading and rotational clamped shear. Side loads at the road level are attempting to pry the top of the wheel away like a lever and almost all that force goes to the lugs unless the center of the wheel is wide and fitted tightly to the hub itself. Check out how center 'lug "knock off" wheels function and fit. When you think about a hard landing and hit on one wheel, imagine how much force of leverage many thousands of LBS and a foot of leverage have to be dealt with. It's as massive a load as connecting rod bolts see at top RPM, just not happening as frequently. We don't re-use connecting rod bolts or most head bolts due to their losing strength after being stretched once, but we re-use lugs as if that doesn't happen to them too. Lug bolts or nuts and studs should be replaced regularly as maintenance, and after any time excessive force has been applied to them. Darn cheap 'insurance' that you won't DNF.
Which brings out another often overlooked point- bolt circle diameter. With the one-wheel landing in mind, the farther the lugs are away from the pivot point of the center of the hub, the less leverage the wheel has against them. Cars that lose wheels most often have a small diameter bolt circle and fewer lugs. Going to 5 lugs over 4 decreases each lug's loading by 20%- that's a huge number. Thinking of the levering force, increasing the bolt circle even slightly gives you a lot more strength through decreased leverage, as both the pivot point and the opposing lug moving outward doubles that gain. Most people think only of getting all the space for the brakes that they can, and so are sold on small centers when little braking force is to be had there compared to the outer areas. Better to sacrifice a little area there and keep the wheel on, don't you think? If you're ever really bored, do the math on this estimating the car weight and side loads on that one wheel landing and you'll be amazed at the tons of force involved and how much strength can be gained or lost with a slight difference in bolt circle diameter. After that you'll wonder how in the world wheels don't fall off more often.
@@P_RO_ close but not really. You are desxribing torque to yield bolts which do stretch once to have a more precise clamping force. All bolts do not stretch and deform to clamp, and those bolts also require a torque angle gauge to properly torque. A wheel bolt typically fails when the stud fails, and is no simpler to replace then than a wheel bolt to begin with... Which is essentially a stud that threads into the hub with a fixed bolt head. Your hub supports 100% of the weight of your vehicle. That is why hubcentric wheels are important. The bolt itself supports nonweight. The hub face supports the weight through friction and clamping force.
Copper Antisieze is the solutiom you are looking for. Protecting the integrity of the threads of the fasteners and ensuring sufficient torque without overtorqueing is the key to long live happy wheel bolts/studs. Torquesticks and torque wrenches exist for good reason.
your stuff are great.. thank you
ty
Ha he said duty
Interesting. I don't imagine rally guys adhere tires to wheels like drift guys do...since rally drivers might actually need to swap a tire between stages without grinding glue off?
MDethCKR I imagine it would depend on the course or the team/driver
Between stages you're not going to have time to remove a tire from a wheel and mount a new one. You'll have all your spare tires already mounted to spare wheels, ready to go. Got 12 spare tires? You'll have them mounted to 12 spare wheels.
I live in Serbia. I have small steel wheels, 13", and fat tyres.
I have heard that in US they have roads as bad as here. I do not understand why then people drive on huge aloy wheels with low profile tyres.
Mladen Milić America is a big country. There are certainly bad roads Most roads here are smooth and wide.
With low pro tires your car will corner and handle better. You sacrifice ride quality for performance.
You were lied to. The roads in America that are like Serbia are mostly in areas people don't travel with such cars. The majority of roads are very well kept. You should visit some time and see for yourself
This guy is giving off a car salesman kinda vibe
what a about standard wrx wheels same thing??
depends on the year/trim level but you're probably better off with a wrx wheel than a civic wheel
thanks
White wheels are the best by the way. He forgot to mention that.