Just changed the radiator, water pump, t-stat, and hoses in my 2005 wk with a hemi. I did NOT have to disconnect any of the condensor or cooling lines. You can get the radiator out without removing any cooling lines. I removed the airbox so I could get to the left bolt holding the radiator to the vehicle.
I am on my anti-frustration break. I've been trying to get the old radiator out for about 45 minutes. ligershark, please tell me how to get that passenger-side radiator mounting tab past the transmission cooler tabs without removing any cooling lines.
@@mattwise2741 Just saw this now. I did a lot of twisting and pulling. How did you make out? Also would like to thank OP for this video. It was a great deal of help for me. I actually planned on removing the condenser lines but didnt have the proper tools or elbow grease to get it done, which resulted in me having the f* it moment where I just went for it with the radiator.
I wound up disconnecting the transmission cooler and the power steering cooler at the radiator (not at the bottom of the fan as shown in the vid). Biggest mistake was the rigid tubes got twisted and mixed up. I had to pull the radiator back out to reroute the tubes. That was cause for frustration break number 2. Works great now though!
JUST FINISHED My Radiator replacement 04/2020 (2006 Grand Cherokee HEMI 5.7L) ; I got it completely done in 3 hours, wow! It is involved, but not bad. Here are my pro tips for the next person who has to do this: 1) Start by removing the Radiator Fluid tank ( this makes is much easier to remove the airbox ) 2) Then remove the airbox ( this gives you so much more room to remove all that crap in there ) 3) DO NOT disconnect any of the power steering lines attached to the hydraulic fan ( it's not needed ) 4) When everything is loose, Look under the jeep on the drivers side and there is an electrical wire that is mounted to the frame with a plastic pin. Gently remove this and it will give you so much more room to maneuver the fan farther into the engine bay which gives you much more room to get the radiator out 5) Highly advise you to get those plugs/caps for the transmission lines and power steering lines which are attached to the 2nd and 3rd radiators. I didn't and transmission fluid and power steering fluid leaked everywhere. Not a big deal, but it will be much less mess if you can cap the ports on the 2nd and 3rd radiator. 6) When you are ready to take out the radiator (or put it back in); grab a friend! All those transmission and power steering lines are such a pain in the ass that a friend will help out sooo much! When lifting out the old radiator; start by lifting on the driver side so it kind of comes out a little first. Put in the new radiator the same way you take it out. 7) Have a good set of tools!!! I HIGHLY RECOMMEND a battery-powered impact driver! I have the 18v Cordless Bosch 1/2" impact driver. Best tool I have purchased in years. Be sure to have a couple of extensions for your ratchets and a decent basic set of sockets.
I just did this on a 2010 Limited with the 5.7 and tow package. Bought the radiator off amazon for around $90 delivered 2 days later. It had plenty of very good reviews. I did not removed any of the things in this video. Other then grill and other obvious things as pointed out needed to get to it. My comments are based on standing in front, looking towards the back. All the bolts are pretty easy to get to for ounce. After all are removed work the fan housing into the motor as far as possible for best clearance. I moved the top hose out of the way for better clearance. PS fluid reservoir remained connected to the fan housing, all lines connected. Yes the ac lines and the transmission cooling lines on the left make it a PITA to get the radiator out. The main hang up is the bottom left attachment point on the radiator. the "leg" with nut sticks out about 1- 2 inches from the radiator and gets hung on the above lines. I used a 2+ foot 1 inch wood dowel placed it on the top of the "leg" took a hammer and wacked, broke it off. Then worked the radiator out. Wasn't that much of a struggle. Getting the new one in past those lines is the tricky part because the leg is attached obviously and there is VERY little clearance to get past those lines. But the lines can be moved just enough to get the clearance needed by removing the spacer clips. And Gently working the lines to give more clearance. They can be bent enough to get more clearance. Just bey VERY careful. Work the radiator back in, I used a long pry bar to Gently work the lines out of the way to get past the bottom left attachment leg. I use ramps to elevate the front end which it makes it a LOT easier to look and work with things from underneath. IME I had to work from the top and the bottom to get the leg past the lines. Gently using the pry bar. Removed the retaining clip for the wiring harness that runs the bottom and another retaining clip for a line down there. Thing is too look over things as you work, move things as needed. Granted I have been wrenching on cars, trucks etc for many years. So my skill level maybe a lot higher then the average shade tree mechanic. As some others have said. Having an impact driver, an assortment of extensions etc makes things go a lot quicker. It took me around 2 hours, with several long breaks. I used the same cap from my old radiator. I did this several weeks ago and no leaks so far. For me it went a lot faster then expected. Esp after watching this video. No snark intended
Thanks for posting. Good video - without a lot of BS overtalking. Did this yesterday. Started with installing a Tee in heater hose (Prestone kit) and flushing. Used a grinder on the rivet for the windshield cleaner reservoir, replaced with a plastic pin. Did not remove any other coolant lines as others have mentioned. Just bent them around as needed. You do need to rotate the radiator counter clockwise to clear the lines while pushing it toward the engine bay to avoid the lower passenger side tab from catching the trany coolant lines. Look at where you are hung up and make adjustments...take your time, it is doable. Shifted over to replacing water pump and T-stat, much easier with radiator and appurtenant hoses gone. Then inserted the new radiator. Again, rotation (clockwise for install) to avoid coolant lines while pushing fan and condensers around as needed. I just left the left bottom tab to condenser unbolted, I'll go back and fix it later. Recommend installing lower radiator hose before replacing serpentine etc because of access. Ended up using the yellow stuff from Walmart instead of HOAT cash hogs. So far so good. leaks gone and running cooler. 👍
I followed his video and work well. In addition I removed the passenger headlight instead of removing the transmission lines, and that gave me room to work the radiator out.
Dude, took me a while to finally find these awsome instructions! Thanks, mostly due to you, coupled with a few of the viewers comments I was successful. Not going to lie, it took me all day, like almost 12 hours!
Just replace the radiator on a 2005 Hemi on Sunday, Over an hour to get it out , Could not have done it myself without a helper. Getting past the lines was a bear, Trick we found at the end when it was a 1/3 way out and getting hung up on the fan was to use a broom stick between the radiator and fan housing to push the fan back at bottom just enough to get the bottom hose mount slip past. . Before putting the new one in used a hack saw to remove the two tabs that the fan assembly would sit on. and the ones on the bottom of the front side. That extra clearance made installing much easier. Had back in place in about 10 minutes.
I watched this video AND the "fail" video. I thought both had good information to see. I went to high school for auto mechanics, auto body and machinist training.... after watching these videos....... now 40 years later, I now think I'll have the patience to ...... change the top radiator hose that's bad - LoL . Great video Swampazz :- )
Wow so much to do! My PS pump is screaming, my radiator is leaking also need a head light swap as well woo hoo!! Anyway, thanks for this video I will get all my parts and do everything together. You have saved me lots of time just by knowing the cooling fan is run by the Power steering pump. I am grateful I saw the leak before overheating it. So now this A/c man will play back yard mechanic At least I know it will be done right!! this is round 1. in the spring I will do round 2 a/c compressor and whatever else must needs to be done I think although I still just might do it all. Lets see if the funds come in.
Dude can't thank you enough! Hopefully my wife complements me when I'm all filthy and cursing at things!! I love that you opened up with the fail video comment. That guy's video was completely worthless! Cheers!!!!!
Thank you, seems like lots of vids for the smaller engine keeps but never anything on the hemi....you covered this job nicely from an average Jeep owners perspective...great job.
Thanks for the video - great job. I have an 07 GC Overland w/Hemi, same color as yours. The video helped a lot. This is the worst vehicle I have ever replaced a rad on. I followed your steps except I pulled the whole lower shroud, not that you needed to but it was easy enough to do and gives more room to work. I didn't disconnect the fan line at all, only the two lines on the larger cooler and the one on the passenger side for the small one. I had to end up tying up the units to hold from falling down when removing the rad. That was nasty to get out and took a long time but actually only took probably 5 min to get the new one slid into place. Keep up the good work, awesome job for a first video.
Thank you for this video. It was very useful to see the steps involved. A couple things however. I only removed the power steering hose from the cooler and plugged the ends. No other hoses other than the radiator hoses was removed. Everything moved just enough to get by it. It was still a real bear to do. Took me 4 hours to do.
I had to do this on mine a couple years ago, talk about a pain in the ass. I did it without removing the the fan/shroud and dealing with power steering fluid BS. I didn't remove any cooler lines either. I will be replacing it under warranty today. An extra pair of hands to hold stuff out of the way makes all the difference.
Thank you very much for posting this video! I have the same vehicle and when I took it in for radiator replacement they charged me for two hours of labor and I wanted to see why. I have a fear of being ripped off because I'm a woman but it appears two hours is appropriate.
All you had to do was look at where the radiator sits and how buried it is to understand it's probably a few hours to pull and replace ...lol... not sure what your sex has to do with common sense ?
I'm glad it can help! It was a struggle and I learned alot. I believe I am going to need to replace my bushings as well. I just replaced the front shocks but didn't even check the bushings. Live and learn. Good luck with your radiator!
If someone holds the fan up and back, that's helpful. If can keep the tran and power coolers up and pushed left (facing the car) and leaning towards you while working the rad passed the pipes, that's helpful. Both the rubber support bumpers on the bottom fit perfectly. I'm not sure why cutting the notch to fit mattered. Because none of the bolt holes on that side lineup. I used a bunch of galvanized wire to tie them together on that side. The radiator bolt might have fit in if I'd slid the adjustable bolt hole over all the way to the right, but pressure against the frame prevented that. I agree with other comments that the power steering disconnect is unnecessary though I did it anyway because my jeep's old and I didn't know how old the PSfluid was.
Nice video- only two notes- WK's do not use standard power steering fluid, if you don't flush your system you are going to waste your pump, rack, and fan. Also, the hemi doesn't use Glycol based coolant (green) due to the aluminum heads. you're supposed to use HOAT (orange) coolant. Less risk of damage since it's not mixed with the flush, but still going to cause premature wear. Besides that, great tutorial.
I know this is an older video but Thank You! I could not figure out how to disconnect the cooler lines and didn't see the two bolts that hold the transmission cooler to the radiator.
Hey Big Thanks for this video! You did a great job and its so helpful to other people that will attempt the swap. Looks like a real pain in the a$$ though. I need to replace mine on a 2008 Commander Hemi. Did you have to use the Hoat coolant and special power steering fluid? Thanks again and great job!
Thanks for posting this video. This saves me $400. I just ordered a Spectra Premium CU2840 radiator for a 2006 WK Hemi. What radiator brand and type did you use?
Nice on saving the $400! I also used a Spectra Premium but the B2840 for my 2008. Glad I could help. This was my first time replacing a radiator and making a how-to video for auto parts.
Did the work just as you described only difference: I decided to take the transmission cooler/AC condenser (it's a dual function cooler) out before reinstalling because I didn't trust myself to wiggle it back in after wiggling it out (big PITA). Made installment so much easier and cleaner for the cost of $90 for refrigerant. Great tip with adjusting the front right support of the radiator. The OEM is 7 mm shorter than the Spectra one. CU2840 and B2840 are the same (had both numbers on my box). One general tip: put first all cooler screws in without tightening. You need some room to push the three coolers left and right so that the holes align otherwise you won't get all screws in.
Another great modification is take a reenforced Dremel cutting wheel and remove that one and a half inch piece of metal blocking your hood release tab, otherwise no metal rod can reach it from the bottom - that plate totally blocks it so cut it out. As for security, other cars don't have it so why should yours unless you want to be stuck with a locked down hood that's impossible to bypass. Edit : don't even need the rod. A push with your finger can release it.
NOT AN IDIOT. IT WAS A LEARNING SITUATION FOR YOU. YOU DID GOOD BY SHOWING THE PROCESS COMPLETELY TO OTHERS. WE ALL THANK YOU. NOW YOU CAN SMILE AD GO GRAB AN ICE COLD WATER.
Can you tell me what the plastic caps you used on the trans cooler are called? or a part number from autozone? I checked with autozone and local dealerships and no one seemed to know what i was talking about. Also thanks for the video..huge help
For anyone doing this... You do not have to disconnect the power steering line, not sure why you did that. But for anyone attempting this you absolutely do need to disconnect the condensor lines for the ac and the transmission cooler. No question, you cannot get past those lines without them being disconnected. I also did not remove the air filter box, not even sure why you would... As far as time I'm 2 hours in with the new transmission in but not bolted up, I'd say another hour for me to put it all back together. Was a real pain to get the bottom pegs on the radiator back in place.
I went ahead and disconnected the power steering like he did and the transmission oil leaked so bad that gravity and slick got the new rad passed the metal lines on the left.
I just did this a couple days ago and can confirm that the air box, radiator support bars up front, and power steering coolers don't need to be disconnected/removed. I also didn't need to disconnect the transmission cooler lines, but the AC condenser lines HAD to be disconnected. Once those were out, the swap was smooth. I would also recommend replacing upper and lower hoses and cap with this swap and sticking with HOAT coolant (zyrex or Mopar).
@@thegr8schlotzky I dont know how you got it out without disconnecting the transmission cooler lines.. do you have the 5.7 hemi? I actually blew a transmission line because the clamp ring thingy was bent, it emptied the transmission fluid almost instantly.. Just fyi, I had leaking issues and it turned out to be the overflow hose leaking down to the bottom fill line. I stuck a hose clamp on it and all is well..
Shane Carter Yes, 2006 5.7L. Moving the radiator fan assembly towards the engine was enough for me to clear the trans cooler lines without any drama once the condenser lines were disconnected. There could be slight year-to-year differences in line configuration though.
I’m going in...... just got my radiator in waiting for sun to gin down a lil. Wish me luck. Think I’m going to cut those tabs off the lower radiator to get it out better
Not necessarily. The radiator just had a bad leak that would shoot coolant all over my engine. I tried using some "stop leak" stuff and it worked for a day or two, then the leak got worse. With the coolant leaking so badly, it was overheating no matter what. Idle or not.
Hi, I have damaged the transmission oil cooler in the Hemi commander. Tell me, my dear friend, does the P engine have 3.5 thousand rpm? or max? Say, please, if you have the working temperature of the engine, if the hose is hard, I can squeeze but not tight.
I've got an 07 GC Overland with the 5.7. Anyone else have to replace the rad every 2 or 3 years? I am going to have to change mine for the 3rd time since I got it about 7 or 8 yrs ago. Also go through high pressure power steering hoses about the same and the make of them doesn't make a diff, same with the rads.
I wish I could answer this, but not too long after this replacement, my engine blew up. I ended up trading it in for a 2014 GC Overland 4x4 with a 5.7. :(
Hmmm... I'm not too sure if it would be the same but very similar. The commander has a different body style, obviously, but it might be close to the same. My Jeep Grand Cherokee is the Overland edition, as well. From my understanding, they are the same motor.
So, for the average joe, I'd give myself at least a minimum of 6 hours, depending on how fast you work and knowledge on removing parts. It took me longer because I wasn't prepared and didn't have some items to complete the process from start to finish. Thanks for watching!
Just changed the radiator, water pump, t-stat, and hoses in my 2005 wk with a hemi. I did NOT have to disconnect any of the condensor or cooling lines. You can get the radiator out without removing any cooling lines. I removed the airbox so I could get to the left bolt holding the radiator to the vehicle.
I am on my anti-frustration break. I've been trying to get the old radiator out for about 45 minutes. ligershark, please tell me how to get that passenger-side radiator mounting tab past the transmission cooler tabs without removing any cooling lines.
@@mattwise2741 Just saw this now. I did a lot of twisting and pulling. How did you make out? Also would like to thank OP for this video. It was a great deal of help for me. I actually planned on removing the condenser lines but didnt have the proper tools or elbow grease to get it done, which resulted in me having the f* it moment where I just went for it with the radiator.
I wound up disconnecting the transmission cooler and the power steering cooler at the radiator (not at the bottom of the fan as shown in the vid). Biggest mistake was the rigid tubes got twisted and mixed up. I had to pull the radiator back out to reroute the tubes. That was cause for frustration break number 2. Works great now though!
@@mattwise2741 As I said below, just break it off. I realize your comment is a year old. My reply is meant for others.
i realize it's pretty off topic but do anyone know a good place to stream newly released tv shows online?
JUST FINISHED My Radiator replacement 04/2020 (2006 Grand Cherokee HEMI 5.7L) ; I got it completely done in 3 hours, wow! It is involved, but not bad. Here are my pro tips for the next person who has to do this:
1) Start by removing the Radiator Fluid tank ( this makes is much easier to remove the airbox )
2) Then remove the airbox ( this gives you so much more room to remove all that crap in there )
3) DO NOT disconnect any of the power steering lines attached to the hydraulic fan ( it's not needed )
4) When everything is loose, Look under the jeep on the drivers side and there is an electrical wire that is mounted to the frame with a plastic pin. Gently remove this and it will give you so much more room to maneuver the fan farther into the engine bay which gives you much more room to get the radiator out
5) Highly advise you to get those plugs/caps for the transmission lines and power steering lines which are attached to the 2nd and 3rd radiators. I didn't and transmission fluid and power steering fluid leaked everywhere. Not a big deal, but it will be much less mess if you can cap the ports on the 2nd and 3rd radiator.
6) When you are ready to take out the radiator (or put it back in); grab a friend! All those transmission and power steering lines are such a pain in the ass that a friend will help out sooo much! When lifting out the old radiator; start by lifting on the driver side so it kind of comes out a little first. Put in the new radiator the same way you take it out.
7) Have a good set of tools!!! I HIGHLY RECOMMEND a battery-powered impact driver! I have the 18v Cordless Bosch 1/2" impact driver. Best tool I have purchased in years. Be sure to have a couple of extensions for your ratchets and a decent basic set of sockets.
Thank you! This information is invaluable to the DIYer. I just noticed today my drivers side tank is leaking along the crimped seam.
I just did this on a 2010 Limited with the 5.7 and tow package. Bought the radiator off amazon for around $90 delivered 2 days later. It had plenty of very good reviews.
I did not removed any of the things in this video. Other then grill and other obvious things as pointed out needed to get to it. My comments are based on standing in front, looking towards the back.
All the bolts are pretty easy to get to for ounce. After all are removed work the fan housing into the motor as far as possible for best clearance. I moved the top hose out of the way for better clearance. PS fluid reservoir remained connected to the fan housing, all lines connected.
Yes the ac lines and the transmission cooling lines on the left make it a PITA to get the radiator out. The main hang up is the bottom left attachment point on the radiator. the "leg" with nut sticks out about 1- 2 inches from the radiator and gets hung on the above lines. I used a 2+ foot 1 inch wood dowel placed it on the top of the "leg" took a hammer and wacked, broke it off. Then worked the radiator out. Wasn't that much of a struggle.
Getting the new one in past those lines is the tricky part because the leg is attached obviously and there is VERY little clearance to get past those lines. But the lines can be moved just enough to get the clearance needed by removing the spacer clips. And Gently working the lines to give more clearance. They can be bent enough to get more clearance. Just bey VERY careful.
Work the radiator back in, I used a long pry bar to Gently work the lines out of the way to get past the bottom left attachment leg. I use ramps to elevate the front end which it makes it a LOT easier to look and work with things from underneath. IME I had to work from the top and the bottom to get the leg past the lines. Gently using the pry bar. Removed the retaining clip for the wiring harness that runs the bottom and another retaining clip for a line down there.
Thing is too look over things as you work, move things as needed. Granted I have been wrenching on cars, trucks etc for many years. So my skill level maybe a lot higher then the average shade tree mechanic. As some others have said. Having an impact driver, an assortment of extensions etc makes things go a lot quicker. It took me around 2 hours, with several long breaks. I used the same cap from my old radiator. I did this several weeks ago and no leaks so far. For me it went a lot faster then expected. Esp after watching this video. No snark intended
Time stamp 13:46 I believe that is a a/c condenser but never the less your video helped me out I didn’t know the crossover brace had to be removed 👍
Thanks for posting. Good video - without a lot of BS overtalking. Did this yesterday.
Started with installing a Tee in heater hose (Prestone kit) and flushing. Used a grinder on the rivet for the windshield cleaner reservoir, replaced with a plastic pin. Did not remove any other coolant lines as others have mentioned. Just bent them around as needed. You do need to rotate the radiator counter clockwise to clear the lines while pushing it toward the engine bay to avoid the lower passenger side tab from catching the trany coolant lines. Look at where you are hung up and make adjustments...take your time, it is doable.
Shifted over to replacing water pump and T-stat, much easier with radiator and appurtenant hoses gone.
Then inserted the new radiator. Again, rotation (clockwise for install) to avoid coolant lines while pushing fan and condensers around as needed. I just left the left bottom tab to condenser unbolted, I'll go back and fix it later.
Recommend installing lower radiator hose before replacing serpentine etc because of access. Ended up using the yellow stuff from Walmart instead of HOAT cash hogs. So far so good. leaks gone and running cooler. 👍
I followed his video and work well. In addition I removed the passenger headlight instead of removing the transmission lines, and that gave me room to work the radiator out.
Probably the best video about this out there. Also the best comments with little tips on making it even easier.
Dude, took me a while to finally find these awsome instructions! Thanks, mostly due to you, coupled with a few of the viewers comments I was successful. Not going to lie, it took me all day, like almost 12 hours!
I know this video has been up for a while but you deserve the praise, great job on a tutorial! Thank you for taking the time and helping other owners.
Just replace the radiator on a 2005 Hemi on Sunday, Over an hour to get it out , Could not have done it myself without a helper. Getting past the lines was a bear, Trick we found at the end when it was a 1/3 way out and getting hung up on the fan was to use a broom stick between the radiator and fan housing to push the fan back at bottom just enough to get the bottom hose mount slip past. . Before putting the new one in used a hack saw to remove the two tabs that the fan assembly would sit on. and the ones on the bottom of the front side. That extra clearance made installing much easier. Had back in place in about 10 minutes.
I watched this video AND the "fail" video. I thought both had good information to see. I went to high school for auto mechanics, auto body and machinist training.... after watching these videos....... now 40 years later, I now think I'll have the patience to ...... change the top radiator hose that's bad - LoL . Great video Swampazz :- )
Haaaaaaa
Wow so much to do! My PS pump is screaming, my radiator is leaking also need a head light swap as well woo hoo!! Anyway, thanks for this video I will get all my parts and do everything together. You have saved me lots of time just by knowing the cooling fan is run by the Power steering pump. I am grateful I saw the leak before overheating it. So now this A/c man will play back yard mechanic At least I know it will be done right!! this is round 1. in the spring I will do round 2 a/c compressor and whatever else must needs to be done I think although I still just might do it all. Lets see if the funds come in.
Great video thanks! Got to be honest, 17:07 gave me a little anxiety with that ratchet on the battery like that... Lol
Dude can't thank you enough! Hopefully my wife complements me when I'm all filthy and cursing at things!! I love that you opened up with the fail video comment. That guy's video was completely worthless! Cheers!!!!!
Thank you, seems like lots of vids for the smaller engine keeps but never anything on the hemi....you covered this job nicely from an average Jeep owners perspective...great job.
Thanks for the video - great job. I have an 07 GC Overland w/Hemi, same color as yours. The video helped a lot. This is the worst vehicle I have ever replaced a rad on. I followed your steps except I pulled the whole lower shroud, not that you needed to but it was easy enough to do and gives more room to work. I didn't disconnect the fan line at all, only the two lines on the larger cooler and the one on the passenger side for the small one. I had to end up tying up the units to hold from falling down when removing the rad. That was nasty to get out and took a long time but actually only took probably 5 min to get the new one slid into place. Keep up the good work, awesome job for a first video.
Hey boss, you just saved me 800 bucks. Thank you so much. 08 JGC Limited, with the hemi. Much respect!!
Thank you for this video. It was very useful to see the steps involved. A couple things however. I only removed the power steering hose from the cooler and plugged the ends. No other hoses other than the radiator hoses was removed. Everything moved just enough to get by it. It was still a real bear to do. Took me 4 hours to do.
Thanks for sharing! This was my first time ever performing this and glad to know I didn't have to do some of these steps lol. Thanks again!
Thank you very much for this video, it helped me remove and install the leaking radiator in my 2010.
Dude! Best video on UA-cam so far on this!!!!!! The rest of them need to be deleted right now!!!
Nice video. I'm gonna replace the radiator in my 2006 WK 5.7L limited in the next few days. Thanks!
Thanks for the video and all the comments below. I plan to flush before installing the new radiator.
Great video dude! I will try to change my Radiator next week.
Also love the comments from your wife! She digs you!
This video was very helpful. It saved me a whole lot of time and Heartache.
Awesome man!Glad it helped.
I had to do this on mine a couple years ago, talk about a pain in the ass. I did it without removing the the fan/shroud and dealing with power steering fluid BS. I didn't remove any cooler lines either. I will be replacing it under warranty today. An extra pair of hands to hold stuff out of the way makes all the difference.
Awesome work, Thank You very much for posting this video.
Thank you very much for posting this video! I have the same vehicle and when I took it in for radiator replacement they charged me for two hours of labor and I wanted to see why. I have a fear of being ripped off because I'm a woman but it appears two hours is appropriate.
Jonathan Forrest thanks for video, it helped out a lot!!
All you had to do was look at where the radiator sits and how buried it is to understand it's probably a few hours to pull and replace ...lol... not sure what your sex has to do with common sense ?
Good video. Changing lifters so removal needed thanks
Thanks for the video. I'll farm it out...but at least I know what needs to be done.
Thank you very much for posting this video! I also have the same and will need to perform this and the front diff bushings.
I'm glad it can help! It was a struggle and I learned alot. I believe I am going to need to replace my bushings as well. I just replaced the front shocks but didn't even check the bushings. Live and learn. Good luck with your radiator!
If someone holds the fan up and back, that's helpful. If can keep the tran and power coolers up and pushed left (facing the car) and leaning towards you while working the rad passed the pipes, that's helpful. Both the rubber support bumpers on the bottom fit perfectly.
I'm not sure why cutting the notch to fit mattered. Because none of the bolt holes on that side lineup. I used a bunch of galvanized wire to tie them together on that side. The radiator bolt might have fit in if I'd slid the adjustable bolt hole over all the way to the right, but pressure against the frame prevented that.
I agree with other comments that the power steering disconnect is unnecessary though I did it anyway because my jeep's old and I didn't know how old the PSfluid was.
Nice video- only two notes- WK's do not use standard power steering fluid, if you don't flush your system you are going to waste your pump, rack, and fan. Also, the hemi doesn't use Glycol based coolant (green) due to the aluminum heads. you're supposed to use HOAT (orange) coolant. Less risk of damage since it's not mixed with the flush, but still going to cause premature wear. Besides that, great tutorial.
Red coolant is very corrosive and will destroy the engine. Green is safe for all engines.
@@AaronFergFerguson Not true at all... Definitely use HOAT coolant.
cut the lower hose plastic hose fitting the old radiator popped right out, who needs the old radiator?
Great video, I'm about to do our 2009 GC 5.7. Any tips on radiator part no. Too many to choose from TIA I like your style. Dan
Thanks for the video, I just did the same install on my 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 5.7 and it was a bitch but your video helped a lot. !!!!
I know this is an older video but Thank You! I could not figure out how to disconnect the cooler lines and didn't see the two bolts that hold the transmission cooler to the radiator.
Hey Big Thanks for this video! You did a great job and its so helpful to other people that will attempt the swap. Looks like a real pain in the a$$ though. I need to replace mine on a 2008 Commander Hemi. Did you have to use the Hoat coolant and special power steering fluid? Thanks again and great job!
Thanks for posting. It is the only one I found.
Thanks, I know when I searched for one I couldn't find it. Glad I could help.
When you’re flushing the the fluids out are you using normal faucet water or distilled the entire time? Thanks for the video super knowledgeable!
Please show the orientation for the thermostat,thank you .I need to replace my radiator also on a 2007 hemi ,overland
God!, it’s more complicated than I thought
Exactly what I thought after doing it, lol
Thanks for posting this video. This saves me $400. I just ordered a Spectra Premium CU2840 radiator for a 2006 WK Hemi. What radiator brand and type did you use?
Nice on saving the $400! I also used a Spectra Premium but the B2840 for my 2008. Glad I could help. This was my first time replacing a radiator and making a how-to video for auto parts.
Did the work just as you described only difference: I decided to take the transmission cooler/AC condenser (it's a dual function cooler) out before reinstalling because I didn't trust myself to wiggle it back in after wiggling it out (big PITA). Made installment so much easier and cleaner for the cost of $90 for refrigerant. Great tip with adjusting the front right support of the radiator. The OEM is 7 mm shorter than the Spectra one. CU2840 and B2840 are the same (had both numbers on my box). One general tip: put first all cooler screws in without tightening. You need some room to push the three coolers left and right so that the holes align otherwise you won't get all screws in.
Another great modification is take a reenforced Dremel cutting wheel and remove that one and a half inch piece of metal blocking your hood release tab, otherwise no metal rod can reach it from the bottom - that plate totally blocks it so cut it out. As for security, other cars don't have it so why should yours unless you want to be stuck with a locked down hood that's impossible to bypass.
Edit : don't even need the rod. A push with your finger can release it.
NOT AN IDIOT. IT WAS A LEARNING SITUATION FOR YOU. YOU DID GOOD BY SHOWING THE PROCESS COMPLETELY TO OTHERS. WE ALL THANK YOU. NOW YOU CAN SMILE AD GO GRAB AN ICE COLD WATER.
Can you tell me what the plastic caps you used on the trans cooler are called? or a part number from autozone? I checked with autozone and local dealerships and no one seemed to know what i was talking about. Also thanks for the video..huge help
Thanks for the pointers!
Great video 👍👍 thanks for the help
Hey how much coolant did your system need? I can’t tell if I have air in my system or not
Great video man. And great job. Wonder what the dealer charges to do this? Saved a lot of cash. LOL on your wife coming in.
You're basically saving a hundred dollars every thirty minutes.
Thank you so much the video helped me out it was a bitch coming out but overalls thanks you
For anyone doing this...
You do not have to disconnect the power steering line, not sure why you did that.
But for anyone attempting this you absolutely do need to disconnect the condensor lines for the ac and the transmission cooler. No question, you cannot get past those lines without them being disconnected. I also did not remove the air filter box, not even sure why you would...
As far as time I'm 2 hours in with the new transmission in but not bolted up, I'd say another hour for me to put it all back together. Was a real pain to get the bottom pegs on the radiator back in place.
Thanks for the info! This was my first time replacing a radiator and had a huge learning curve. I'm glad some of my information was confirmed!
I went ahead and disconnected the power steering like he did and the transmission oil leaked so bad that gravity and slick got the new rad passed the metal lines on the left.
I just did this a couple days ago and can confirm that the air box, radiator support bars up front, and power steering coolers don't need to be disconnected/removed. I also didn't need to disconnect the transmission cooler lines, but the AC condenser lines HAD to be disconnected. Once those were out, the swap was smooth. I would also recommend replacing upper and lower hoses and cap with this swap and sticking with HOAT coolant (zyrex or Mopar).
@@thegr8schlotzky I dont know how you got it out without disconnecting the transmission cooler lines.. do you have the 5.7 hemi? I actually blew a transmission line because the clamp ring thingy was bent, it emptied the transmission fluid almost instantly..
Just fyi, I had leaking issues and it turned out to be the overflow hose leaking down to the bottom fill line.
I stuck a hose clamp on it and all is well..
Shane Carter Yes, 2006 5.7L. Moving the radiator fan assembly towards the engine was enough for me to clear the trans cooler lines without any drama once the condenser lines were disconnected. There could be slight year-to-year differences in line configuration though.
Excellent dawg
I’m going in...... just got my radiator in waiting for sun to gin down a lil. Wish me luck. Think I’m going to cut those tabs off the lower radiator to get it out better
Good luck! It's tough job!
Got b lucky pb welded and it somehow worked
Question: Before you changed your radiator was it overheating at idle???
Mine is overheating at idle.
Not necessarily. The radiator just had a bad leak that would shoot coolant all over my engine. I tried using some "stop leak" stuff and it worked for a day or two, then the leak got worse. With the coolant leaking so badly, it was overheating no matter what. Idle or not.
Nice you don't have the hooks in the front? I had to pull the bumper and impact those things off infuriating I just pulled the fan f fighting with it
I have a 2005 everything looks the same. Where did you get your Radiator at? Dealership wants over $300 for their Radiator.
I picked up my radiator from AutoZone.
I got a Mopar for around $230
DON"T push on the accumulator, I watched my helper crack the refrigerant line into the condenser bottom.
Did you have to add transmission fluid to the transmission after changing the radiator
Negative, didn't lose that much, only a few drops.
Hi, I have damaged the transmission oil cooler in the Hemi commander. Tell me, my dear friend, does the P engine have 3.5 thousand rpm? or max? Say, please, if you have the working temperature of the engine, if the hose is hard, I can squeeze but not tight.
Dude, good job, helped me out!
I've got an 07 GC Overland with the 5.7. Anyone else have to replace the rad every 2 or 3 years? I am going to have to change mine for the 3rd time since I got it about 7 or 8 yrs ago. Also go through high pressure power steering hoses about the same and the make of them doesn't make a diff, same with the rads.
I wish I could answer this, but not too long after this replacement, my engine blew up. I ended up trading it in for a 2014 GC Overland 4x4 with a 5.7. :(
Hi, this should be the same for a Jeep Commander 2008 Overland V8 5.7 Hemi?
Hmmm... I'm not too sure if it would be the same but very similar. The commander has a different body style, obviously, but it might be close to the same. My Jeep Grand Cherokee is the Overland edition, as well. From my understanding, they are the same motor.
Swampazz Fishing I thinks it 99% the same, everything is on the same position, thanks for the tutorial, I will change it next week
how long would you say this job took for the average joe?
So, for the average joe, I'd give myself at least a minimum of 6 hours, depending on how fast you work and knowledge on removing parts. It took me longer because I wasn't prepared and didn't have some items to complete the process from start to finish. Thanks for watching!
Swampazz Fishing no problem as you seen no other good instructionals. Sucks it seems like a lot of people have that leak by the upper hose.
@UCGy306_5_6XLsQWP97Onoww, great and very helpful video. Where are you located my friend?
What did you replace the rivet with?
I didn’t because I was lazy. You can just put another river in there, if it doesn’t hold, use some washers behind the river to hold.
Nice to know that now, 3 weeks ago I installed my new 08 jeep commander radiator I think Jeeps are a bitch to work on.
This is a whole lot of work just to change a radiator,imagine what the dealer would charge 💵
Exactly, that's why I wanted to try and do it myself. If I remember correctly, it would have cost me over $1500
Swampazz Fishing Wow 😮 what a ripoff I’m glad you were able to pull it off and save lots of cash 💰 in the process!!!!
you have a great wife , or gf , man
Your video made me cringe - all that time & labor!! But REALLY GOOD VIDEO!! Thanks
Haha, appreciate it man. I know, I was in over my head. First time ever changing out a radiator.
I just love algorithms. NOT.
Invest in some power tools lol.
lol, I have since expanded my collection. On track!