4.7 ... put a new serpentine belt on. See that hex head plug with the orange sealer surrounding it? That is the plug I unscrew to burp the cooling system. I screw in a small plastic funnel after draining the cooling system for a change. I always jack the front of the Commander up so the engine is tilted just a tiny little bit. [My Commander has a natural lower rake look to it, high in the back] 1~Fill the radiator. 2~Test the radiator cap. Will the cap hold 20 lb? 3~Put the cap back on. 4~Fill the overflow bottle at least halfway to the factory paint mark. 5~Keep filling coolant until the funnel is full. 6~Start the engine. Immediately the coolant will be sucked down into the engine, water pump, and hoses. 7~Keep adding coolant as the engine and thermostat warm. Don't allow air to go down the funnel. 8~Wait, keep filling if necessary. But keep the funnel full. A full funnel is the 'foot-head' and is the highest point in the cooling system. Watch the overflow bottle, it may go up. It may not. But it is there to keep any air out. 9~Once the engine is up to normal temperature and the funnel is still full, have a friend increase the engine rpm from idle to about 1,200 rpm ... the coolant will again be sucked down into the engine. Add more coolant. 10~When no more coolant will go down the funnel and still holding the 1,200 rpm steady ... remove the funnel and screw in the threaded hex plug. 11~at this point the cooling system is full and burped with no air pockets. You can't do better than that. Now can you?
I did my 2015 wrangler sport and i feel your pain ! You did a good job under the circumstances ...i personally would have replaced the upper and lower rad hoses as well as the clamps and done the serpentine belt too ...just my 2 cents
Thank you for posting this. Nice work! Doing my Commander this weekend. I see your trans cooler lines have the same "2x hose clamp fix" that mine do LOL!
The hangar 5000 makes another appearance folks get your hangar 5000 And accessory kit right now for For $19.99 it's a deal Lol but no for serious another awesome video Once again totally explaining the through-and-through process Simple through-and- Thorough
That new rack had a leak and I had to pull the rack back out again, If yours is really hard to get in like I showed when I had the jack under the axel housing I pulled the axel housing bolt on the passenger side and that allowed it to lift a little more and went in a little easer. Just keep jack under it and I used a strap to make sure it did not drop down.
@@ratsrodsgarage461 got it done. I went underneath the vehicle with a dremel multitool and cut the piece where the radiator connects to the bottom hose and it came out rather easy after that. I didnt even have to remove the fan.
Are the 3.7, 4.7, 5.7, radiator's all the same? I took my fan shroud out from the bottom and not the top. Is this a Dorman Radiator? Nope it's a Koyorayod ?? One could cut and tape a corrugated protective cover over both front and back of the fins. So the power steering rad is separate from the engine radiator? ... check good deal. The automatic transmission fluid radiator is also separate? ... check good deal. The leaky Radiator ... did someone try to fix the leak with a leak sealer? The Radiator cap should be tested ... mine held 4 lb but not 19 lb [psig]. It is most important to bleed the air out of the cooling system, you don't want to drop any valve seats in the head with one over heating episode.
4.7 ... put a new serpentine belt on. See that hex head plug with the orange sealer surrounding it? That is the plug I unscrew to burp the cooling system. I screw in a small plastic funnel after draining the cooling system for a change. I always jack the front of the Commander up so the engine is tilted just a tiny little bit. [My Commander has a natural lower rake look to it, high in the back] 1~Fill the radiator. 2~Test the radiator cap. Will the cap hold 20 lb? 3~Put the cap back on. 4~Fill the overflow bottle at least halfway to the factory paint mark. 5~Keep filling coolant until the funnel is full. 6~Start the engine. Immediately the coolant will be sucked down into the engine, water pump, and hoses. 7~Keep adding coolant as the engine and thermostat warm. Don't allow air to go down the funnel. 8~Wait, keep filling if necessary. But keep the funnel full. A full funnel is the 'foot-head' and is the highest point in the cooling system. Watch the overflow bottle, it may go up. It may not. But it is there to keep any air out. 9~Once the engine is up to normal temperature and the funnel is still full, have a friend increase the engine rpm from idle to about 1,200 rpm ... the coolant will again be sucked down into the engine. Add more coolant. 10~When no more coolant will go down the funnel and still holding the 1,200 rpm steady ... remove the funnel and screw in the threaded hex plug. 11~at this point the cooling system is full and burped with no air pockets. You can't do better than that. Now can you?
I did my 2015 wrangler sport and i feel your pain ! You did a good job under the circumstances ...i personally would have replaced the upper and lower rad hoses as well as the clamps and done the serpentine belt too ...just my 2 cents
Thank you for posting this. Nice work! Doing my Commander this weekend. I see your trans cooler lines have the same "2x hose clamp fix" that mine do LOL!
The hangar 5000 makes another appearance folks get your hangar 5000 And accessory kit right now for For $19.99 it's a deal Lol but no for serious another awesome video Once again totally explaining the through-and-through process Simple through-and- Thorough
Glad u showed all the obstacles. Good video.
This video helped me a lot thank you for the time you spent on it
Nice vid man. Pretty clear, nice and easy, see pretty much all the steps. Nicely done. Thanks for posting.
You are welcome. Take care
Thank you. I saved a lot money because of your video!
You welcome. Thank you for taking your time to watch and comment. Take care.
Gran video amigo!
Thank you take care..
T was a rivet, a pop rivet!
Could you please tell me the model of the Milwaukee wrench you use in this video? Thinking of tackling this job myself, thanks!
Im attempting this today. Thanks for the video.
That new rack had a leak and I had to pull the rack back out again, If yours is really hard to get in like I showed when I had the jack under the axel housing I pulled the axel housing bolt on the passenger side and that allowed it to lift a little more and went in a little easer. Just keep jack under it and I used a strap to make sure it did not drop down.
Ok. I did not attempt last month, but will do tomorrow... Wish me luck. Jeep commander 2010 5.7
@@papayaman78 Good luck May the force be with you
@@ratsrodsgarage461 got it done. I went underneath the vehicle with a dremel multitool and cut the piece where the radiator connects to the bottom hose and it came out rather easy after that. I didnt even have to remove the fan.
@@papayaman78 Awesome to hear. Thank you for the tip.
Gotta love the karate kid reference 😂
Are the 3.7, 4.7, 5.7, radiator's all the same?
I took my fan shroud out from the bottom and not the top.
Is this a Dorman Radiator? Nope it's a Koyorayod ??
One could cut and tape a corrugated protective cover over both front and back of the fins.
So the power steering rad is separate from the engine radiator? ... check good deal.
The automatic transmission fluid radiator is also separate? ... check good deal.
The leaky Radiator ... did someone try to fix the leak with a leak sealer?
The Radiator cap should be tested ... mine held 4 lb but not 19 lb [psig].
It is most important to bleed the air out of the cooling system, you don't want to drop any valve seats in the head with one over heating episode.
How much antifreeze did you need to fill it up
I think two gallons. Sorry I dont remember. I know I had one unmixed gallon and made two 50/50 with it.
Banzi