How To Build A 500HP 2JZ For Cheap Part 1: Teardown
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- Опубліковано 22 лют 2021
- I finally started building the 2jz for my e36 drift car! In this video I go over the disassembly process and the plan for how to build the engine. Hope you enjoy!
Make sure to hit the subscribe button if you enjoyed this video and want to see more.
2JZGE Service Manual: www.2jzgarage.com/wp-content/...
Follow me on Instagram @Teysik
Thanks for watching!
Parts List
docs.google.com/spreadsheets/... - Авто та транспорт
Yo had to pause the video, and let my mind speak, thanks man for being in detail and giving great info, been researching for a while and everyone else is a bit scarce.
Thanks, appreciate the support
This is ironically the first video I’ve seen with a full tear down to the head
Thank you so much for this very informative detailed video. 🙌🏼
Fantastic! love it!
Your videos are the best ..full on details and the guide is top notch
Thanks!!
Great video mate, really informative and not full of waffle.
Thanks!
Love all the information brother!
Thanks!
That was well done
Seriously great content dude, thank you!
Thanks!
@@Teysik where can I get mounts for a 46 ,300 ci ie company's iwas thinking of an 8hl70 swap any ideas on managemrnt to co.ntol box and can bus any thing else ineedi
,Like turbo lamik
Neerd ti
@@paulforbes8205 xcessive should have mounts
How this video doesn't have more views is beyond me
Haha thanks man. It’s doing pretty good considering the number of subscribers I have
Good vid 😀
I love that breaker bar 😂
😂
Good stuff 👍
Thanks!
Good video bro !!
Thanks!
nice job!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks!
Hell yeah!!!! Those are words that should go together! 2JZ and E36!!
For sure! It’s gunna be sick!
Thank you for your time and effort great video
Thanks! I appreciate the kind words!
@@Teysik I'm also currently busy with a ge build in my lexus GS 300 1998 model and my power goal is 370 kw @1 bar boost it's going to be a sleeper car can't wait to see your car done be safe and keep boosting
Awesome! Bet you’re as pumped as I am 😊
@@Teysik yes just to share information about the 2 z build check big end and main bearings while the engine is out of the car especially for us that is on a budget build keep boosting and be safe
You know what they say though, if you check them they’ll be bad 😂
Geez you were not kidding about the crank bolt, I cannot break that sucker. I’ve broken 2 breaker bars, and a wrench wedged between the flywheel bolts like you did. I just bought a 3/4 drive breaker bar and a 3/4 drive 22mm socket to see if that’ll work. I have no idea what else I can do if this doesn’t work. It’s soaking in some pb tonight.
I don’t think you’ll break the 3/4. Put a pipe on it and you should be able to get it
@@Teysik yeah I’ve got the long like 5ft tubing from my hand jack I’m using, so fingers crossed 🤞
👍🏼
Also, how similar were the mounting points on both engines? We’re they the same? I’m doing this exact thing your doing but putting the rebuilt engine with the non vvti shortblock from a 94 into my 99 gs300. Should I worry about making fabricated mounts or should I be okay? I ask because I haven’t picked up the other engine yet and before I do I’d just like to get an idea of what to expect
Both blocks have the mounting holes for each position, so you should be good
Nice and detailed, thanks. What transmission will you be using?
Bmw ZF 5 speed. The adapter kit just came today!
Where is part #2 man? I want to do the same as you man but I need more guidance. Thank you in advance for such a helpful video.
ua-cam.com/play/PLv-IbucRN1a7R77LCZGtYaW-kruunMlUA.html
Watch this playlist in order
hardest fighting bolt I have ever removed.
2jz crank bolt. Required
2 3/4 " breaker bars
2 jack handles
1 1x60" cheater pipe
Countless heat cycles
A Rachet strap.
Almost flipping the engine twice.
Oh and a heavy duty 22m crank socket and special harmonic balancer lock tool.
It's removed lol
😂 yah it sucks
Would setting the crank at 60 degrees be the same for a gte as well? I’ve always been looking out for gte’s but seeing your videos is making me want to go ge instead.
I would assume they’d be the same. It’s just not practical to spend $6k on a gte now!
You should. They’re like $6k cheaper lmao. A lot of them are under $1k in my area.
What size bolts did you use to mount the engine to the engine stand? I wanted to go out to buy the bolts before I pick up the donor engine tomorrow
Good question. I believe it was m12x1.25. Need to be at least 3.5 inches long
Can you take the rods out of a non vvti an put it in the vvti block with no issues
Yes you can, but then you might as well do new rod bearings, main bearings, and have the block machined while you’re at it, which adds quite a bit of cost
Could you just replace the rods and pistons with newer stronger parts instead of buying another engine? Don’t have space for 2 and I’m trying to build my ge for 600hp
Absolutely, that’s the better route. Just costs more. You’ll wanna do new rod bearings as well
Hey man, i cannot find the video where you mentioned something about the alternator tab. I inspected my block and found the lower tab is cracked 😭
Budget 2JZ Part 4: Accessories and Transmission
ua-cam.com/video/DX8iqElTuHk/v-deo.html
The service manual is a bit hard for me to understand. Now, I put my timing belt on but I lined all gears up to TDC (line not dot) while holding the vvti gear all the way clockwise so it wouldn’t rotate that 30°, everything stayed lined up and when I rotated the crank several times everything stayed lined up. Do you have to line up the dots on the cam gears and the crank 60° BTDC? If so why? Because I don’t feel any valve to valve contact, timing seems fine. And every other video just says follow the manual, but I’m just confused when reading the manual. My crank pully for some reason had no sun timing mark, and the cam gears on the ge head had no dots. I needed a new crank pully anyways so I now have a fluidampr pully and it’s got all the marks I need and the vvti head has the dots. Sorry for the long comment, I just want to make sure I’m not going to ruin anything
As long as all your marks line up the same after several rotations you should be good.
Hey man, about to 2j swap my e46. What trans and rear end setup did you use on the e36?
Cool! ZF 5 speed out of a 328i e36. Stock rear end. Swapping to m3 trailing arms so I can run m3 axles
at 13:15 does that water neck has a gasket? because mine is leaking from there im losing so much coolant by that area.
If I remember right it has an o-ring
@@Teysik thank you! I will take it apart and check
Question if I were to run just the vvti head onto the non vvti bottom block without boost will would I get a check engine light? Or no because they are the same and just the heads and pistons as stronger? I know you said the internals are weaker on the stock vvti bottom so that they are able to rev higher. I’m thinking of doing this in my is300 just not sure if the the ecu will trip out and throw codes. Or do I need an engine control management even though I’m not going to boost it at the moment?
Some sensors are a bit different so there’s some things you’d have to do but it would definitely work
@@Teysik What about is300 ge head vtti on a GTE block or bottom end I'm guessing its the same thing. Would that work. With or without changing the cams. I want at minimum 550 whp on pump gas max 600 on pump gas.
@@marioandultrachap I think that combo works, but if you’re gunna spend that kinda money on a bottom end you might as well get the gte head to go with it
Hey my friend, do you know how much power can handle the ge vvti piston? I already start my build but I trying to save a little money just replacing the gte rods and keep my eom ge piston thank you
The pistons are iffy, they’re probably good for close to 500, but they are know for breaking ringlands at high power levels
@Teysik thank you for you answer my plan is to get close to 500hp so maybe I take the chance
@@Morm1175 you would probably be ok
How much of a pain would it be to just swap the connecting rods? Seems cheaper than having two different engines
A good set of rods is more expensive than a $300 non vvti engine. Plus if you’re gunna do rods you should really do bearings at the same time. And if you’re doing all that, you might as well get the block machined for head surface and piston walls honed. It becomes a rabbit hole
@@Teysik Yupp I’m going down the rabbit hole rn😭
Where did you source your non vvti engine?? I’ve been searching and searching
Junkyard. There are sites if you google junkyard parts search that let you search thousands of junkyards at a time and filter by closest to you
Did you test compression before you decided not to replace the piston rings on NON VVTI or valves VVTI head?
Nope, just gunna send it. 2jzs usually have really good wear. As long as there’s no catastrophic issues, they should be good.
@@Teysik I just pulled a non vvti and the whole engine has very different compression numbers 😂😐
@@JonathanMai does it spin super smooth with the accesory belts off and can you hear any grinding or other strange noises when turning it by hand? A lot of times compression is a head gasket issue anyways, which got replaced in my build
@@Teysik I don't think so? Let me check again, but I put in a little oil into the cylinders for my second test and the numbers for the most part were much higher, so I concluded it was mostly piston rings. Thought it was valves as well.
I was told that these engines use a quart of oil every 1200 miles, is that true or false?
I have never heard that about 2jzs
What did you estimate the cost to be had you gone into bottom end?
Didn’t really look into it but I would have wanted bearings and have the block honed and everything. Not sure what machine shops are charging for that these days
I want to thank you for this you took a lot of the bullshit with doing a 2JZ in my 84 Hurst Olds . Getting the two engines was the way to go for sure . I went from looking at spending $30000 for a race 2JZ to doing about the same as your build just larger Turbo and better intake looking to make around 1700 HP and all this for around $3600 I know one thing for sure my car would never have a LS in it and to do a Oldsmobile engine was costing me 5 time what this cost , Thanks again
That’s awesome! Glad to hear I helped
Do have to take the crank pulley off??
Yes to change to the vvti oil pump with crank sensor
Would it be good to just upgrade the rods and keep the ge pistons
Yes, that would be acceptable. However, I have heard rumors of ring lands breaking on the stock pistons. So if you’re doing rods it would be a good time to do pistons as well.
I’ve done some research on this. Apparently you can use 2jzgte rods, pistons and head gasket to get better results with power over 600+.
Hi bro can i contact you ? Ineed to ask you about another engine non-vvti
You can dm me on Instagram
So can you answer me this: do you need the whole lower block from the non vvti or can you use the vvti block and replace the rods and pistons? Or would the rods and pistons not fit in the VVTI block? This has been confusing me. I’ve been looking for the non VVTI engine and there is nothing and if there is it’s like 3k anywhere near me
Yes you can use the non vvti internals in in a vvti engine. If I were going to do that I would do all new bearings and take the block to a machine shop. That’s why I decided to just go the non vvti block
@@Teysik I would get a non VVTI block I just can’t find one that isn’t “bro taxed” lol
@@Diabetic_Deity there no junkyards in your area that might have one?
@@Teysik I think I’d have to call around because a lot of the junk yards have websites that you can search their inventory but they don’t work well, I’ll have to call around
@@Diabetic_Deity there are a few websites that track inventory for junkyards nationwide. You just put in the make and model of the car and that you’re looking for an engine, and then you can filter it by whatever’s closest to you. Just google junkyard parts search or something like that. That’s how I found my engine
Man, where’s your hot rod content? 🤔I’ve subbed for it and can’t wait.😅
It’s gunna be awhile 😥 I’m focused on drifting for right now
@@Teysik thank you! I’ll be waiting for the hot rod series.🙃
Part 2 ?????
ua-cam.com/play/PLv-IbucRN1a7R77LCZGtYaW-kruunMlUA.html
Wish I had a garage like this to work on my engine
It's not perfect, but its better than my old garage that only had about 2 feet on each side of the car!
@@Teysik better than being outdoors
@@CombatJJ definitely 😂
Just get some rods and the vvti would be good for more than 400
That’s definitely an option, but it would be more expensive. I also didn’t feel like tearing apart a bottom end. You might as well do bearings while you’re at it, so it snowballs to end up being a lot more
@@Teysik that is true. I was just looking for a cheap way to make 500hp on a 2jzge I got lying around
Part2?
ua-cam.com/video/2Xrf2t9HfGU/v-deo.html
yoo where did u buy the nonvvti engine
Picked it up at a junkyard, spent awhile searching for one somewhat close to me for a decent price
@@Teysik you think its more worth it to do it like that than building my vvti bottom end i have an is300
@@jesve8120 you’re gunna have a much better engine if you build your bottom end, but it’s gunna cost an extra $1-2000. Block needs machined, all new bearings, and rods and pistons. You could just do rods and save a good chunk but I’ve heard the ring lands on the pistons are a weak point as well
@@Teysik yeah that’s what I’m prolly going to do, I’m prolly going to be on e so the ring lands aren’t too worrying to me I’m going to get some new oem pistons so they will be fresh
Is the vvti the same wiring harness as the non vvti?
No. Non vvti has distributor, so no coil packs and no cam sensor and crank sensor is on distributor instead of crank pulley
@@Teysik so in this aspect would i use the vvti harness i have a sc300 trying to just put the vvti top end on my non vvti
@@2cthagoon392 yes. Just make sure you also use the crank pulley an oil pump from the vvti (crank sensor is attached to oil pump). Driftmotion sells an oil line for the vvti solenoid
@@Teysik anything else i need to know??
@@2cthagoon392 not that I can think of off the top of my head. I’d recommend watching all my videos. I go into detail on all the little things
Is a 2jz ge or gte ?
GE
How much is in ur e36
Idk honestly. Maybe around 5k before the 2jz
Links to everything needed?
I’ll have a list in my next video!
@@Teysik thanks
@@youngbullsgarage7322 I have added it to this video as well
You know the dimensions of the engine block?
Which dimensions are you looking for? I’d be happy to measure for you
@@Teysik the lenght, width and height of the block.
Just the block is roughly 24.5 inches long, 15 inches wide, and 11 inches tall
@@Teysik thank you very much, it helped a lot I was looking for this information and couldn't find it. One more Like and one subscribed to your channel.Greetings from Brazil✌👍
Thanks! ❤️ Happy to help!
Will this work with 200k on the dash lol
Definitely will, you might have excessive blow by though. As long as the engine runs good now I wouldn’t hesitate to do it
Bro I didn't even get to see it finish and driving, I am currently in the process of purchasing a 2jzNA and have been following but ,don't know what happened 🤷🏿♂️ u just stopped filming
Just posted a wiring video. Next week I’ll have the first start video up 😉
Genuine question, wouldnt it be cheaper to just buy rods instead of a whole new 2jz? They are pretty pricey nowadays 😂
A ge from a junkyard is 3-500. Good rods are around 600, then you need bearings and might as well do pistons and rings, and then you might as well get the block machined as well. So no, a second engine is actually they way cheaper option
@@Teysik Woah i didnt know you can find them at junk yards commonly. I dont have junkyards where i live so i cant really do stuff like that
@@Eriestdoor this is the naturally aspirated 2jzge, not the turbo GTE. Check out my video about which 2jz to buy. The GE came in Lexus is300, gs300 etc.
@@Teysik yeah im looking to get a is300, they are very cheap where i live
@@Eriestdoor can’t go wrong with the 4 door supra
BMW using Toyota engine, opposite of Supra.
Haha yah, except the Supra is basically a bmw chassis too
The service manual is a bit hard for me to understand. Now, I put my timing belt on but I lined all gears up to TDC (line not dot) while holding the vvti gear all the way clockwise so it wouldn’t rotate that 30°, everything stayed lined up and when I rotated the crank several times everything stayed lined up. Do you have to line up the dots on the cam gears and the crank 60° BTDC? If so why? Because I don’t feel any valve to valve contact, timing seems fine. And every other video just says follow the manual, but I’m just confused when reading the manual. My crank pully for some reason had no sun timing mark, and the cam gears on the ge head had no dots. I needed a new crank pully anyways so I now have a fluidampr pully and it’s got all the marks I need and the vvti head has the dots. Sorry for the long comment, I just want to make sure I’m not going to ruin anything
The cams spin twice for every one rotation of the crank. That’s the reason for the 60° BTDC. Just because the marks all line up doesn’t mean you have the crank timed correctly with the cams. However, being an interference engine, it should be able to turn over fully if you have it wrong (I think). Also, sorry for the late response, I’m just now seeing this comment