*This the only channel dedicated to the 2JZ that breaks down technical meanings in layman's terms. I was inquiring about 400-500hp upgrade package but maybe I should be focused on an "OEM" rebuild that can handle upgrades*
Love these videos, Jay! As an amateur engine builder that's built a couple 2JZ's (with parts from Real Street) now for personal projects, learning from other people's mistakes and your many years of experience is absolutely invaluable!
This man is such a teacher his experience is of such value for upcoming engine builders who may not have the experience . Thanks Jay keep it coming please.
@@johngray5360 I’d like to just do a basic NA Miata BP engine with ITBS. Fun motor that’s smooth and reliable. I work in racing and the people having the most fun are the ones driving, not worrying.
I've only read about WPC and it seems like more of a surface improvement process VS DLC is a coating that takes the character of the part and puts a hard layer on it. It's something that I should look into however where I used DLC it seems to solve the problems I was having. Who knows, maybe the WPC is as fruitful?
Yep, every common for a top fuel piston rack to have a variety of compression ratios hole to hole as airflow isnt the exact same to each intake port from the intake manifold, also way head gasket thickness changes by heat/humdity too
Be easy on the page up key in the spark map for sure. Especially at lower revs or torque bois. Make your power with boost. It’s just a little more psi. But a couple more degrees…. Who knows lol. Thanks jay. But seriously even tho you are 💯 your spark table should probably not be 100s top to bottom side to side lol. I am not a 2jz dude actually rotary to sbf. I know I am hard headed. But I appreciate all of the community. We need to stick together.
Jay you are a legend I could listen to you talk all things tech and engines all day! Thanks guys! Brilliant video as always 🙌✅😎 wish you could be in the UK and be working on my Supra too 👍👍👍❤️
It's done on a case by case basis. On an engine running alcohol based fuel and a stock wet sump oiling I'd take the oil pressure over the piston cooling.
Hi Jay were shimless bucket were new? Or resued? I just want to understand if that will happen with time and use. I am building a daily drive and dont want to end up in that way
I don't know as I only had control of the shortblock. I've seen some jz engines that have TIN coated shims that seem to live better with the steel cams. The best advice I can give if you're using steel cams is the DLC coating or use cast cams. Be mindful to what oil you're using as the lobe is only splash lubricated and if you're running alcohol based fuels oil will be diluted. Thanks
How do you determine what each cylinder is actually doing to be able to tune for it ? I mean beyond and EGT sensor per cylinder ... EGT measurements are kind of slow to be able to catch lean/detonation situations aren't they ?
They are slow but you are looking for consistency and similar EGTS across all cylinders . Its more of a proactive measure than a reactive that's what I think and I'm no pro tuner or engine builder. The best way to see knock would be to monitor cylinder pressure but the equipment required to do that is really expensive I think Gale banks has a video on it.
EGT per cylinder is exactly what you need for catching potential cylinder to cylinder TIMING issues. Beware of the coldest cylinders. You'll want to pull timing on those cylinders to get the temps even with the others. You want EGT's to be close (maybe within 100 degrees F) cylinder to cylinder. They are slow compared to a wideband but that's why you don't use them to tune air/fuel ratio. That's what individual widebands are for but probably overkill for most.
Any idea what steel grade those wrist pins are made out of? Because there are galling resistant steel grades out there, and anti-galling surface treatments too, to tackle this. *IF* it is a problem you want to avoid, rather than allowing it to happen as a warming sign.
6 year old tech, who knows what they used, probably standard issue 4130 or 4340 pin… definitely a DLC coated 9310 or H13 is the way to go at the power level and usage Jay stated it was at
The pins are 9310. They're surface hardened. The problems shown don't occur at this power level (1000-1100whp) when the engine is tuned properly. Once the cylinder pressure is our of control the parts deflect, oil is displaced and it's mixing metal. As power increases you move to a through hardened pin that's DLC coated like a Trend. Thanks
@@jaymeagher1510 Thank you for the insight! I'm a materials scientist & engineer / metallurgist, so this was a question out of curiosity and you gave a very interesting answer.
@@Hydrazine1000 The stress under detonation is just too severe to account for. It's why compression ignition engines are heavy and noisy. Once it's rattling the clearances change!
@@jaymeagher1510 Not helped by the fact, I assume, that detonation starts locally, rather than pushing against the whole piston surface evenly. I just can't escape the feeling that something like hardened AISI Type 440C would outperform 9310. With 440C you can get a yield strength past 250 ksi, where 9310 will reach up to 155 ksi typically. And if you go really exotic, Maraging 350 steel can have a yield strength past 330 ksi, if properly aged. ... But then I realize that I know just about nothing about all of the intricacies of an internal combusion engine, let alone a 1000+ horsepower engine.
Stupid question. But When getting your shimless buckets dlc coated. Do you gotta accommodate for the coating when measuring clearances from buckets to cam?
If anyone knows 2j it would definitely be you my friend!!! Jay do you still offer short block builds??? If not who do you guys recommend? Even today most shops can't build a trust Worthy 2jz engine. Thanks 👍💯🏁🏁🏁
We have been selling 2jz engines, contact someone in sales and they can get you a quote. I've only been building engines myself for people I have total control of the process, tuning/Motec ETC..
Yeah a billet cam is one that will cause that to happen. Have billet GSC S2 vvti in my 2J block and haven’t ran it because I’m going to build the bottom end (2J prices are STUPID now, and I’m not willing to shoot a rod out the block while chasing a 1000whp stock bottom claim) and I’m going to DLC coat the buckets before re-assembly.
@@edmundnlemadim8480 one guy in Miami did 1105 whp on stock bottom end. Ran several times on the dyno and a few runs on the track, then blew that rod out when he let off throttle top of 4th gear. He was going to build it anyway so he figured why not run it till it blows to see what he can get from it
@You Tube yeah that was Yosdany’s Supra. He got his mileage out of that block; it was the original engine and he had ket increasing power over 10 years with different setups. I don’t have 10 years out of my stock bottom and it’s no longer ~1000 to get a stock GTE block and crank to build Not to mention I have about 6K into the cost of my vvti head with shimless buckets, GSC cams, Supertech oversized valves, ferrea springs and retainers, and full CNC porting + assembly, I’m not about to trash that head either, hence why im pulling it back apart for billet mains, BC6309HD rods and Real Street RS1600 pistons with DLC coated pins
@@edmundnlemadim8480 my 98 Supra only has 30k miles on stock twins and i have ZERO plans to do any major upgrades other than the bolt-ons which were already done.
Stock HG will do just fine until you're past 1400 or so WHP. At that point you're going to start dealing with defection that the MLS gasket can't cover for.
Great video. Very professional not mentioning the tuner. Thanks for great content. Still looking forward for Jays 96mm tear down. Or even a progress video. 🤞
The 96mm engine is alive and well! It's a really smooth running engine that hasn't been using a measurable amount of oil. I did take it apart after 1000 miles to make sure the Titanium rods were living as they were not coated. All good so far!
Great video as usual from someone with real world experience. It's time to buy the long sunnen dial bore guage (.0001 incriminates) for mains though Jay lol. I only build a handful of engines a year at home and I own one.
I Definitely learn something new with everyone of Jay's videos.... That's why I really only want him to build the one's I have. Dude has so much experience it's mind blowing.🏁🏁🏁👌💯
Seeing as our world is consumption crazed, I have an idea for a one piece engine that would last forever. Head internals are mounted inside head. Would also require no gaskets and no fluids except fuel for 3000 miles. Iso deep pockets! Let's change the racing industry.
Love these videos. The close up pictures under that scope were awesome 🤩
Race family! Keep up the good work, sir!
*This the only channel dedicated to the 2JZ that breaks down technical meanings in layman's terms. I was inquiring about 400-500hp upgrade package but maybe I should be focused on an "OEM" rebuild that can handle upgrades*
Love these videos, Jay! As an amateur engine builder that's built a couple 2JZ's (with parts from Real Street) now for personal projects, learning from other people's mistakes and your many years of experience is absolutely invaluable!
Really glad you guys made this video to show how in-depth an engine autopsy can be.
wow, the amount of information you can get taking apart an engine is incredible.
i highly doubt i'll ever take apart an engine, let alone a 2J, but this is so interesting to watch, i love it.
This man is such a teacher his experience is of such value for upcoming engine builders who may not have the experience . Thanks Jay keep it coming please.
Love watching these videos. More fantastic info. Thanks for taking the time to make and upload these.
indeed, this is just awesome
DLC fixes the problems with GSC cams, I run them with coated lifters and things look good for me!
CSI Orlando ... Tuning, tuning, tuning ... great engine forensics as usual by Jay.
Any from Jay is a must watch 👀 could be a Bicycle. 🇯🇲
And this is why I deals with real street they do there homework there good at what they do and it's help me so much with my builds !
Awesome information. Loved it
Wouldn't the knock sensors be able to detect this and show up on a log?
What kind of tool was that at 0:33 like a torque wrench with an angle or somthing. I want one
It's just a wobble head ratchet from snap on
Awesome info as always
Hey Jay, being the mad engine scientist you are have you explored WPC treatment vs. DLC coating? Love your work bud!
Love to see some WPC coverage beyond Mike from MotoIQ
@@ricepony33 Yeah buddy, love me some Moto IQ! Planning to use WPC treatment on my hot street/track SR setup. What are you up to?!
@@johngray5360 I’d like to just do a basic NA Miata BP engine with ITBS. Fun motor that’s smooth and reliable. I work in racing and the people having the most fun are the ones driving, not worrying.
They are similar in a sense but serve a different purpose
I've only read about WPC and it seems like more of a surface improvement process VS DLC is a coating that takes the character of the part and puts a hard layer on it. It's something that I should look into however where I used DLC it seems to solve the problems I was having. Who knows, maybe the WPC is as fruitful?
Great content Jay. Learned some great info thanks
As always jay great work 👏
Great info & content Jay 👏
Yep, every common for a top fuel piston rack to have a variety of compression ratios hole to hole as airflow isnt the exact same to each intake port from the intake manifold, also way head gasket thickness changes by heat/humdity too
Be easy on the page up key in the spark map for sure. Especially at lower revs or torque bois. Make your power with boost. It’s just a little more psi. But a couple more degrees…. Who knows lol. Thanks jay. But seriously even tho you are 💯 your spark table should probably not be 100s top to bottom side to side lol. I am not a 2jz dude actually rotary to sbf. I know I am hard headed. But I appreciate all of the community. We need to stick together.
Would the wear patterns be the same if it were a 800HP engine?
Love these videos you guys put out. Thank you so much for sharing the years it took to gain this knowledge. Awesome content per usual Real St!
Love the wealth of knowledge shared on this one, Always happy to see content from you guys.
Very nice and awesome investigation went on here thanks for showing
Amazing content
Brilliant video, thank you so much for the upload.
Really enjoy these breakdown videos!
Nice work 👏 👌 👍 💪
Jay thank you so much for these precious 💎💎💎💎. didnt need to share all this precious info. thank you so much. keep up the good work.
Thanks for sharing your wisdom Jay. Lots of useful info here
Jay is a badass
Jay you are a legend I could listen to you talk all things tech and engines all day! Thanks guys! Brilliant video as always 🙌✅😎 wish you could be in the UK and be working on my Supra too 👍👍👍❤️
Valuable information, thank you
is the bore squirter delete just for stroker clearance or is there another reason?
It's done on a case by case basis. On an engine running alcohol based fuel and a stock wet sump oiling I'd take the oil pressure over the piston cooling.
Hi Jay were shimless bucket were new? Or resued? I just want to understand if that will happen with time and use. I am building a daily drive and dont want to end up in that way
I don't know as I only had control of the shortblock. I've seen some jz engines that have TIN coated shims that seem to live better with the steel cams. The best advice I can give if you're using steel cams is the DLC coating or use cast cams. Be mindful to what oil you're using as the lobe is only splash lubricated and if you're running alcohol based fuels oil will be diluted. Thanks
What's the max timing you can run on a stock engine running a single turbo?
Thank you in advance
Very informative
How do you determine what each cylinder is actually doing to be able to tune for it ? I mean beyond and EGT sensor per cylinder ... EGT measurements are kind of slow to be able to catch lean/detonation situations aren't they ?
They are slow but you are looking for consistency and similar EGTS across all cylinders . Its more of a proactive measure than a reactive that's what I think and I'm no pro tuner or engine builder.
The best way to see knock would be to monitor cylinder pressure but the equipment required to do that is really expensive I think Gale banks has a video on it.
EGT per cylinder is exactly what you need for catching potential cylinder to cylinder TIMING issues. Beware of the coldest cylinders. You'll want to pull timing on those cylinders to get the temps even with the others. You want EGT's to be close (maybe within 100 degrees F) cylinder to cylinder. They are slow compared to a wideband but that's why you don't use them to tune air/fuel ratio. That's what individual widebands are for but probably overkill for most.
thanks, great info.
What is the oem 2jz ge head gasket thickness?
Any idea what steel grade those wrist pins are made out of? Because there are galling resistant steel grades out there, and anti-galling surface treatments too, to tackle this. *IF* it is a problem you want to avoid, rather than allowing it to happen as a warming sign.
6 year old tech, who knows what they used, probably standard issue 4130 or 4340 pin… definitely a DLC coated 9310 or H13 is the way to go at the power level and usage Jay stated it was at
The pins are 9310. They're surface hardened. The problems shown don't occur at this power level (1000-1100whp) when the engine is tuned properly. Once the cylinder pressure is our of control the parts deflect, oil is displaced and it's mixing metal. As power increases you move to a through hardened pin that's DLC coated like a Trend. Thanks
@@jaymeagher1510 Thank you for the insight! I'm a materials scientist & engineer / metallurgist, so this was a question out of curiosity and you gave a very interesting answer.
@@Hydrazine1000 The stress under detonation is just too severe to account for. It's why compression ignition engines are heavy and noisy. Once it's rattling the clearances change!
@@jaymeagher1510 Not helped by the fact, I assume, that detonation starts locally, rather than pushing against the whole piston surface evenly.
I just can't escape the feeling that something like hardened AISI Type 440C would outperform 9310. With 440C you can get a yield strength past 250 ksi, where 9310 will reach up to 155 ksi typically. And if you go really exotic, Maraging 350 steel can have a yield strength past 330 ksi, if properly aged.
... But then I realize that I know just about nothing about all of the intricacies of an internal combusion engine, let alone a 1000+ horsepower engine.
Stupid question. But When getting your shimless buckets dlc coated. Do you gotta accommodate for the coating when measuring clearances from buckets to cam?
No but the buckets must be new and polished before coating. If the process isn't done correctly the DLC can become a cutting tool or delaminate.
If anyone knows 2j it would definitely be you my friend!!! Jay do you still offer short block builds??? If not who do you guys recommend? Even today most shops can't build a trust Worthy 2jz engine. Thanks 👍💯🏁🏁🏁
We have been selling 2jz engines, contact someone in sales and they can get you a quote. I've only been building engines myself for people I have total control of the process, tuning/Motec ETC..
Hey stranger, great video! Hope all is well.
Are buckets are damaged because of gcs billet cams? Plus what would be best head gasket?
Yeah a billet cam is one that will cause that to happen. Have billet GSC S2 vvti in my 2J block and haven’t ran it because I’m going to build the bottom end (2J prices are STUPID now, and I’m not willing to shoot a rod out the block while chasing a 1000whp stock bottom claim) and I’m going to DLC coat the buckets before re-assembly.
@@edmundnlemadim8480 one guy in Miami did 1105 whp on stock bottom end. Ran several times on the dyno and a few runs on the track, then blew that rod out when he let off throttle top of 4th gear.
He was going to build it anyway so he figured why not run it till it blows to see what he can get from it
@You Tube yeah that was Yosdany’s Supra. He got his mileage out of that block; it was the original engine and he had ket increasing power over 10 years with different setups. I don’t have 10 years out of my stock bottom and it’s no longer ~1000 to get a stock GTE block and crank to build
Not to mention I have about 6K into the cost of my vvti head with shimless buckets, GSC cams, Supertech oversized valves, ferrea springs and retainers, and full CNC porting + assembly, I’m not about to trash that head either, hence why im pulling it back apart for billet mains, BC6309HD rods and Real Street RS1600 pistons with DLC coated pins
@@edmundnlemadim8480 my 98 Supra only has 30k miles on stock twins and i have ZERO plans to do any major upgrades other than the bolt-ons which were already done.
Stock HG will do just fine until you're past 1400 or so WHP. At that point you're going to start dealing with defection that the MLS gasket can't cover for.
Thank you
So is it a gte or a ge ? The have different head gaskets because one is turbo, the gte head gasket is known to be almost invincible. Also the crank
Great video. Very professional not mentioning the tuner. Thanks for great content.
Still looking forward for Jays 96mm tear down. Or even a progress video. 🤞
The 96mm engine is alive and well! It's a really smooth running engine that hasn't been using a measurable amount of oil. I did take it apart after 1000 miles to make sure the Titanium rods were living as they were not coated. All good so far!
@@jaymeagher1510 Thanks for the update Jay. So many of us appreciate you mate! Keep up the good work. 🇬🇧
Sounds like he needs a better tuner
or mapping for flex fuel/octane levels
Can you please give me the part number on that snap on ratchet.i wanna buy one
Great bed time story.
But what did you dream about?
A white Christmas.
Jay the 2j god!
what fuel did this failure occur on
Pump E85
Great video as usual from someone with real world experience. It's time to buy the long sunnen dial bore guage (.0001 incriminates) for mains though Jay lol. I only build a handful of engines a year at home and I own one.
What fuel was used?
I Definitely learn something new with everyone of Jay's videos.... That's why I really only want him to build the one's I have. Dude has so much experience it's mind blowing.🏁🏁🏁👌💯
🙏Thank you.
You don't oring your heads? I would look into it. It very simple to do on a knee mill with a boring bar and parting tool. It's really a must I think.
Seeing as our world is consumption crazed, I have an idea for a one piece engine that would last forever. Head internals are mounted inside head. Would also require no gaskets and no fluids except fuel for 3000 miles. Iso deep pockets! Let's change the racing industry.
Consumption is surely out of control. Read about the OFFY engine, it's certainly a marvel for it's time.
Pretty much get it near kill and back off a tiny bit
Yea I’m just gonna throw money at y’all to build me a setup. This some mad scientist shit.
🤔 Baltic Supra's 2JZ ???
Different engine, this was a mail order engine from back when we were doing that more.
This was the last time we saw the baltic engine ua-cam.com/video/tcEP7N745mo/v-deo.html
@@realstreetperformance i think you might be see'ing him again. Or he is taking his motor elsewhere. He is having low oil pressure issues.
@@realstreetperformance
would love to hear "jays" thought about this: "can engine be damaged internaly with adding oil while the engine is hot?"
RSPect!
👍
👍👍
CSI REALSTREET
thats one expensive hobby
❤️❤️
yeeeee
how did I get unsubscribed from your channel?!
Don't care what anyone say Japanese cars are the best in the world from it's crappiest cats to the expensive ones
You piston hi power no los power you piston personal