A very cool subject indeed! In my experience, I found the safest way to secure fibers to a part is with PVA. CA makes the fiber brittle and prone to snapping. Yeah it takes longer to dry, but you'll get some flexibility that CA takes away.
Very nice build and you completely achieved the difficult challenge of transforming recognisable kit parts into a believable space behemoth. It is hard to create a credible subject that our minds accept as a cohesive whole, but when sucessfully done our eyes stop seeing those recognisable parts, and instead see the illusion that the builder intended. A few years back my neighbour built a studio scale Millenium Falcon, but his limited painting skills failed to create the illusion, and as soon as I saw it my eyes started picking out all of the recognisable kit parts that ILM originally used. Clearly Airfix 1/76 tanks must've offered a lot of greebles per dollar because they used a ton of them.
The model looks great and adding the LEDs does bring the model to life. I can see it was difficult to create and add the LEDs but the end result is truly outstanding. Thanks for making and sharing this.
Funny enough, I'm collecting parts for something like that too. A blended twin-hulled ship in the vein of The Abyss' Benthic Explorer research ship, but turned into a spaceship similar to the carriers in Macross. If you often need to sand sections like those blue bits with the filler, consider getting a battery-powered toothbrush (the rotating kind, not the wobbly one), cut off the bristles and put a pad of sandpaper there instead. CA glue can screw with fiber optics and make them milky in the best of bad cases, you're better off with epoxy.
Man, I love how this came together. So often, when I watch builds like these, I find myself doubting how it's going. I'm sure that even happens for you while you're building them. But, while not thinking about how it looked in the thumbnail, I found myself thinking this wasn't working out and it wasn't going to look good. But, I was 100% wrong and I love when that happens. It's when they priming is done, then again for the glamour shots. Great job.
Great stuff, absolutely love it! But I would be a bit more conservative with the oil washes. Especially with a ship this big. ILM used washes only sparingly and applied dirt with a light dark airbrush pass. This seems counterintuitive because small crevices are getting lighter with this technique, but it looks way cooler IMO and catches more light in the details. If you're after that special 80's spaceship look, try it out. They also used a black base coat before applying main colors. You can finely control the concave dirt in applying less color for some details. The trick is to not do any detail work uniformly. Dirt is some kind of greeble, you can design with it. Sometimes ILM also used airbrush specking and applied final detail lines with a pencil. Keep up the cool work!
For pipe/tube/hose, check out weed wacker/ string trimmer line. Comes in a variety or sizes and profile shapes. Round, square, pentagon, octagon, star, twisted square, twisted flat. Easy to bend as well.
A couple of tips I use with fiber optics I use a soldering iron to mushroom the end of the filament stops it pulling through. And I use UV resin to secure it to the model. No risk of it melting or crazing from super glue
Its always a good day for sublight drive. Great work as always. Love the way you cut off the prow to change the shape, then glued it back on to tie it back together. You actually convinced me to take up styrene scratch building myself. And i have a project of my own going now. I with that recent foray, i was wondering if you could go a bit more into detail about your method for panel lining, not the techniques exactly, but the philosophy behind breaking up the shapes so they look "right". My attempts so far look strange and dont tie together well. I dont think there is a universal method, But you have mentioned how you enjoy the process I wonder if you could spend a few minutes describing it in more detail for us mere mortals. Cheers bud.
Tip for fiberoptics (as someone who's half through doing my own fiberoptic-lit project), I'd say put a glob of superglue on a bottle cap or something, then use that pin to pick up a tiny dab of glue, place it on the fiberoptic at a spot not quite on the hole itself, then pull it through the hole until the glue makes contact and sets, pretty much instantly, and a lot less wasteful than a dab of glue on EVERY line of fiberoptic.
Great job!. CA tends to make fiber optic brittle and snap easily. There are 'cool' hot glue guns (low melt) that work at lower temperatures, that may work for you. Most people opt for 5 minute epoxy, which can be messy but works... Lights look better in 2s and 3s, and in evenly spaced rows, that may suggest deck heights.
Whoooooooh I just hit the 1000th like! 🎉 Love the final result, it has a really boaty look for a starship. It was really interesting to see a kitbash instead of a scrapbuild, but I haven't received my dose of stirene's Clic, clac, clac 🤭
Try using much thinner solder for electronics, preferably lead-free with a rosin/flux core. It is also much much easier to solder wires that have flux rubbed on them first, which chemically cleans the metal for the solder to stick. I'd also recommend "tinning" you wires before trying to connect them - if you can't get a thin layer of solder onto your leads, you're not going to get multiple untinned wires to fuse.
If you can mount the pin in the dremel chuck, and it has enough rpm's, you might be able to friction drill through for the fiber op. lines. Or, mount the pin in your soldering iron and melt through.
Oh, yes. touch of solder on the CLEAN tip. Touch the tip to the work. You will see the solder flow from the tip the minute the work is hot enough. feed a tad more solder into the joint then get outa dodge. Perfect joint every time.
Heat the wires. (Your iron looks to be to low power) Use flux. It cleans the metal and helps the solder flow. When the wires/material being soldered is at temp, you just touch the solder wire to it and it just gets sucked into the gaps via capillary action. When proper, the solder will look integrated, shiny and smooth. Not like blobs sitting on top of the wires. Get a bigger wattage iron, solder that is half that wire size, and a little puck tin of paste flux. Heat, flux, heat, apply solder. You'll have that "a-ha" moment and it's chewing gum easy after that. :)
Your channel has become a highlight of my youtube feed sir, thanks for your awesome work. Are you familiar with The Expanse? The Rocinante would be an incredible build.
The Nerf guns are probably ABS - many children's toys and household items are, such as Lego bricks and TV remotes. Since ABS is a type of styrene, Weld-On 3 seems to work with it pretty well. I've actually had good luck with 3D printed PLA too, welding custom prints to the sides of Legos, although the PLA definitely doesn't dissolve the same way.
Wicked cool spaceship sir!! Excellent use of (seemingly random) kit parts as well as styrene. While I'm not a big fan of the color red (💙 ftw), this color combo really works well here. I had a question about the fiber optics that I didn't see covered in the video. Did you leave the individual strands long sticking through the hull and only cut them flush with the surface after everything thing has been painted and detailed?? I've seen it handled a couple different ways, but the method I described seems to be the easiest/smartest way. Would love to know if this was how you did yours...🤔 Enjoyed this build & video immensely and awaiting the next desperately. Keep on keeping on! 👍👍
I make those little masks from straight sheet vinyl, the 12 x 12 stuff is a buck fifty a sheet at Hobby Lobby Works good, last loooong time. Oh and, that stuff i less than .001 thick. You can darn near put it on instead of paint.
Absolutely amazing! I love that you make your own oil washes than buying various pre made products that you make get from Tamiya or AK. Have you tried those before? Also on oils....When you are removing the excess....I always have little 'fuzzies' left over from my q-tips and such. Do you use a special brand that prevents that? Remove them all by hand before the 'finished step' shot? OR do I have a skill issue?
I often have little fuzzies left over but I usually just wipe em off with my fingers once it’s 90% dry. Sometimes I’ll use an empty airbrush with the air pressure set really high to blast it off, if they’re in a weird corner.
More Cameo plastic cutting questions: DO you think your blade goes dull from the plastic? Diging the stickers. Wish I had the budget. Them Cameo cutters are way cool to say the least.
Neat! Have question & a suggestion, if I may. @ 7:30; U were clearing off the work surface. Do U save it? I do, along w/ sprue, I use it as filler/ joint reinforcement. GR8 vid & Many thanx 👍👍
I don't tend to save powdered plastic since it's a bit of a pain, and I have TONS of extra sprue. Plus I have no idea what kind of plastic the pipe fittings were made of lol.
Old trick I remember getting taught by a guitar repair guy is using nail varnish to hold together wiring. Don't know if it would work for optic fibres, but I don't see why not.
FYI, I highly recommend buying pre- wired LEDs with built in 9v-12v resistors. Use a 9v battery and run them all in parallel. I also prefer using a 9v AC adapter vs batteries.
Ship looks great! I want to build a 1:12 spaceship, just trying to figure out the dimensions. Just want a single passenger ship, but even then, it's gonna be a pretty good size.
Definitely Space Battleship Yamato vibes, fantastic just a quick question where do you get the containers you keep your styrene in and where do you get those size styrene sheets and finally the name of your shop on Etsy. Ok, sorry, a couple of questions, thanks.
1) from Micheal’s crafts, they’re advertised as boxes for scrapbooking. 2) I buy it wholesale in 4’ by 8’ sheets and cut it to size 3) it’s linked in the video description
incredible looking ship! you really inspired me into making my own ship. Thank you for all these incrdeible videos keep it up! P.S. do you have a social media where we cna share our builds with you? (discord, etc...)
Glad I could be an inspiration l! I’m most active on instagram, but I also have a tumblr and a twitter that I check semi-regularly. I’m Sublight Drive everywhere, so I’m easy to find.
@@Sublight_Drive Thank you man, i will see if i can find you. I do highly reccomend a discord (i 100% if you do not want to, i dont want to seem pushy)
I just buy it on amazon. For a while I tried to find local places I could buy it from, but it turns out Radio Shack is basically an extinct breed of store
I know that there's very little chance of you seeing this but I would very much like to know your process for designing more intricate shapes, like a circular shape that tapers to one end
Great work - I really like how it turned out. Also - thanks for having included all the parts that a lot of other ppl omit from videos. Most ppl don’t seem to realize how much actually goes into making something like this, esp when it’s a kitbash. Great job!
Absurd question, what are the chances of including the cut files in your etsy models? And maybe a rundown on settings you use. Could use a bit of help with mine, ha.
It’s something I’m looking into. I want to make sure it’s something that works right out of the box (so to speak) so it’s taking some time to make sure it’s what I want it to be.
Has anybody ever come across actual official instructions for how to use micro-set/micro-sol? I have seen a bunch of guides for the stuff and everybody seems to uses it completely differently.
I also haven't had much experience with Epoxy Putty, but I've heard Crafsman say it helps if you mix it, then let it sit a bit before sculpting with it. I'm thinking it's his video on designing a character. This one maybe? ua-cam.com/video/ycr9bpO-czI/v-deo.html
the music tempo and choice and the yapping pace just makes this video unwatchable for me. I really love to chillout when making models and I can't imagine any other builder doing so in such a hyped up manner. does your video portray the reality of your process?
You wear a mask when brushing weld on? There's no need, acrylic cement is chemically inert (one of the reasons we use it attach plastic off cuts together) , any you breathe in you'll just cough out with your lung chunks later. I mean I could get behind the 'never too safe' philosophy if it weren't for the fact that stress kills you way quicker than you'd think... Technical stuff aside, that's the best one yet, it's got a whole bunch of charm to it, five points to grufflepuff or whatever
You wear a mask when sanding polyvinyl? There's no need, PVA is chemically inert (one of the reasons we use it to move drinking water around) , any you breathe in you'll just cough out later. I mean I could get behind the 'never too safe' philosophy if it weren't for the fact that stress kills you way quicker than you'd think... Ooh, tiny holes? Pin embedded in cork, open flame, heat needle, push needle through. Heat is the missing ingredient is what I be saying. CA can't dissolve anything, this is the advantage of looking into the chemistry of stuff. What most likely happened to yon optical fibres is they snapped when they changed temperature overnight. I'd think you probably had them bent a bit much, the two cores don't enjoy curves as much as they look like they do. Technical stuff aside, that's the best one yet, it's got a whole bunch of charm to it, five points to grufflepuff or whatever. 🙂
The music is too loud, invasive, and very irritating. I don't know why so many content creators feel the need to inflict this tedious noise on their viewers. That said, this is a nice build.
The one tip I read that helped my soldering improve: heat the work, not the solder. My solder joins look much better now :)
How about for something like ribbon cables?
Also, thinner gauge of solder with flux core, the one he is using in the video is way too thick for something so thin as an led. 😅
Is this electronics solder or solder for copper pipe? because the copper pipe solder is usually not that great for electronics
Need to use flux
@@HenryTriplette And small solder makes excellent cable and piping for scratch building
"I have too many pieces of plastic."
[Looks at Warhammer collection]
Same, my guy. Same.
The solution is clear: Marine-ipede
Happy my wall havnt fallen on me yet
The paint scheme gave off some serious Space Battleship Yamato vibes, with the design being like 1970's/80/8 early Gundam appearances. Love it.
A very cool subject indeed! In my experience, I found the safest way to secure fibers to a part is with PVA. CA makes the fiber brittle and prone to snapping. Yeah it takes longer to dry, but you'll get some flexibility that CA takes away.
Very nice build and you completely achieved the difficult challenge of transforming recognisable kit parts into a believable space behemoth. It is hard to create a credible subject that our minds accept as a cohesive whole, but when sucessfully done our eyes stop seeing those recognisable parts, and instead see the illusion that the builder intended. A few years back my neighbour built a studio scale Millenium Falcon, but his limited painting skills failed to create the illusion, and as soon as I saw it my eyes started picking out all of the recognisable kit parts that ILM originally used. Clearly Airfix 1/76 tanks must've offered a lot of greebles per dollar because they used a ton of them.
If you really dove into this making more models from your own sci fi universe I'd 100% binge watch that for an unhealthy amount of time
Kit-bashing instead of recreating a concept model from scratch build? Nice to see you do this!
Looks like an oil tanker mixed with an aircraft carrier! Very cool build.
The model looks great and adding the LEDs does bring the model to life. I can see it was difficult to create and add the LEDs but the end result is truly outstanding. Thanks for making and sharing this.
If that is an observation deck, then oh boy the scale of this ship would be HUGE
Immaculate work as always! Was super cool to see your kit bashing process. Great narration, too! 😎
ILM used their battleship, boat and submarine hull parts for the medical frigates in Empire Strikes Back and Return of the Jedi as they had an excess.
Well done!!! I like the old school early 80's, Japanese animation style. Looks right out of "Space Battleship Yamato" / "Star Blazers".
Excellent project dude
Funny enough, I'm collecting parts for something like that too. A blended twin-hulled ship in the vein of The Abyss' Benthic Explorer research ship, but turned into a spaceship similar to the carriers in Macross.
If you often need to sand sections like those blue bits with the filler, consider getting a battery-powered toothbrush (the rotating kind, not the wobbly one), cut off the bristles and put a pad of sandpaper there instead.
CA glue can screw with fiber optics and make them milky in the best of bad cases, you're better off with epoxy.
Man, I love how this came together.
So often, when I watch builds like these, I find myself doubting how it's going. I'm sure that even happens for you while you're building them.
But, while not thinking about how it looked in the thumbnail, I found myself thinking this wasn't working out and it wasn't going to look good. But, I was 100% wrong and I love when that happens. It's when they priming is done, then again for the glamour shots.
Great job.
This is awesome. To me, it feels like it would launch swarms of Colonial Vipers, Rebel Snubfighters or Macross/Robotech Valkyries/Veritechs.
Great stuff, absolutely love it! But I would be a bit more conservative with the oil washes. Especially with a ship this big. ILM used washes only sparingly and applied dirt with a light dark airbrush pass. This seems counterintuitive because small crevices are getting lighter with this technique, but it looks way cooler IMO and catches more light in the details. If you're after that special 80's spaceship look, try it out. They also used a black base coat before applying main colors. You can finely control the concave dirt in applying less color for some details. The trick is to not do any detail work uniformly. Dirt is some kind of greeble, you can design with it. Sometimes ILM also used airbrush specking and applied final detail lines with a pencil. Keep up the cool work!
For pipe/tube/hose, check out weed wacker/ string trimmer line. Comes in a variety or sizes and profile shapes. Round, square, pentagon, octagon, star, twisted square, twisted flat. Easy to bend as well.
Using flux helps the solder run and makes it all much easier and stronger, lash it on too.
Absolutely one of my favourite channels on youtube
saw it pop by on redit. cool to see the progress on the build. keep up the good work. 👍
this is so impressive, and seeing your illustration skills alongside your sculpture skills is mind blowing
A couple of tips I use with fiber optics I use a soldering iron to mushroom the end of the filament stops it pulling through. And I use UV resin to secure it to the model. No risk of it melting or crazing from super glue
This looks so cool. I like the paint job too. It reminds me of the Daedalus or Prometheus from Robotech.
You made a masterpiece out of plastic parts!!! Really cool 😎
Its always a good day for sublight drive.
Great work as always. Love the way you cut off the prow to change the shape, then glued it back on to tie it back together.
You actually convinced me to take up styrene scratch building myself. And i have a project of my own going now.
I with that recent foray, i was wondering if you could go a bit more into detail about your method for panel lining, not the techniques exactly, but the philosophy behind breaking up the shapes so they look "right". My attempts so far look strange and dont tie together well.
I dont think there is a universal method,
But you have mentioned how you enjoy the process I wonder if you could spend a few minutes describing it in more detail for us mere mortals.
Cheers bud.
Tip for fiberoptics (as someone who's half through doing my own fiberoptic-lit project), I'd say put a glob of superglue on a bottle cap or something, then use that pin to pick up a tiny dab of glue, place it on the fiberoptic at a spot not quite on the hole itself, then pull it through the hole until the glue makes contact and sets, pretty much instantly, and a lot less wasteful than a dab of glue on EVERY line of fiberoptic.
So very, very, sweet! Great build.
Great job!. CA tends to make fiber optic brittle and snap easily. There are 'cool' hot glue guns (low melt) that work at lower temperatures, that may work for you. Most people opt for 5 minute epoxy, which can be messy but works... Lights look better in 2s and 3s, and in evenly spaced rows, that may suggest deck heights.
Brilliant. She looks great!
Turned out really awesome, great concept and execution again!
This turned out amazing! great work.
Whoooooooh I just hit the 1000th like! 🎉
Love the final result, it has a really boaty look for a starship.
It was really interesting to see a kitbash instead of a scrapbuild, but I haven't received my dose of stirene's Clic, clac, clac 🤭
You are both the 1000th like and the 100th comment and for that you receive the prestigious award of me going “hey that’s neat”
Nice Build. Ju must add little Cargo Ships to it. 😀
Try using much thinner solder for electronics, preferably lead-free with a rosin/flux core. It is also much much easier to solder wires that have flux rubbed on them first, which chemically cleans the metal for the solder to stick. I'd also recommend "tinning" you wires before trying to connect them - if you can't get a thin layer of solder onto your leads, you're not going to get multiple untinned wires to fuse.
If you can mount the pin in the dremel chuck, and it has enough rpm's, you might be able to friction drill through for the fiber op. lines.
Or, mount the pin in your soldering iron and melt through.
Oh, yes. touch of solder on the CLEAN tip. Touch the tip to the work. You will see the solder flow from the tip the minute the work is hot enough. feed a tad more solder into the joint then get outa dodge. Perfect joint every time.
Heat the wires. (Your iron looks to be to low power) Use flux. It cleans the metal and helps the solder flow. When the wires/material being soldered is at temp, you just touch the solder wire to it and it just gets sucked into the gaps via capillary action. When proper, the solder will look integrated, shiny and smooth. Not like blobs sitting on top of the wires. Get a bigger wattage iron, solder that is half that wire size, and a little puck tin of paste flux. Heat, flux, heat, apply solder. You'll have that "a-ha" moment and it's chewing gum easy after that. :)
Amazing work 💕💕
Your channel has become a highlight of my youtube feed sir, thanks for your awesome work. Are you familiar with The Expanse? The Rocinante would be an incredible build.
Giant scarlet-liveried corporate hauler slowly wallowing between the worlds. Huh? Where is the _Red Dwarf_ theme music even coming from?
The Nerf guns are probably ABS - many children's toys and household items are, such as Lego bricks and TV remotes. Since ABS is a type of styrene, Weld-On 3 seems to work with it pretty well. I've actually had good luck with 3D printed PLA too, welding custom prints to the sides of Legos, although the PLA definitely doesn't dissolve the same way.
This is so freakin awesome! I'd suspend it from my ceiling!
Wicked cool spaceship sir!! Excellent use of (seemingly random) kit parts as well as styrene. While I'm not a big fan of the color red (💙 ftw), this color combo really works well here.
I had a question about the fiber optics that I didn't see covered in the video. Did you leave the individual strands long sticking through the hull and only cut them flush with the surface after everything thing has been painted and detailed??
I've seen it handled a couple different ways, but the method I described seems to be the easiest/smartest way. Would love to know if this was how you did yours...🤔
Enjoyed this build & video immensely and awaiting the next desperately. Keep on keeping on! 👍👍
Excellent work! I just found you and of course subbed. Great channel. 😊
Looks awesome well done.
Elmers glue works pretty well for holding fiber in place
Yeah, that’s basically what I finally settled on. Only downside really is drying time.
You do REALLY nice work! Two questions for you. What is your "cutting machine" and how thick plastic will it cut?
I make those little masks from straight sheet vinyl, the 12 x 12 stuff is a buck fifty a sheet at Hobby Lobby Works good, last loooong time. Oh and, that stuff i less than .001 thick. You can darn near put it on instead of paint.
You are DAMM GOOD, man.
Absolutely amazing! I love that you make your own oil washes than buying various pre made products that you make get from Tamiya or AK. Have you tried those before?
Also on oils....When you are removing the excess....I always have little 'fuzzies' left over from my q-tips and such. Do you use a special brand that prevents that? Remove them all by hand before the 'finished step' shot? OR do I have a skill issue?
I often have little fuzzies left over but I usually just wipe em off with my fingers once it’s 90% dry. Sometimes I’ll use an empty airbrush with the air pressure set really high to blast it off, if they’re in a weird corner.
More Cameo plastic cutting questions: DO you think your blade goes dull from the plastic? Diging the stickers. Wish I had the budget. Them Cameo cutters are way cool to say the least.
beat this ! love it!
Finally a use for those godawful fiber optic nightlights
Neat!
Have question & a suggestion, if I may.
@ 7:30; U were clearing off the work surface. Do U save it? I do, along w/ sprue, I use it as filler/ joint reinforcement. GR8 vid & Many thanx 👍👍
I don't tend to save powdered plastic since it's a bit of a pain, and I have TONS of extra sprue. Plus I have no idea what kind of plastic the pipe fittings were made of lol.
Old trick I remember getting taught by a guitar repair guy is using nail varnish to hold together wiring. Don't know if it would work for optic fibres, but I don't see why not.
I’ll have to look into it. My instincts say it might also be a bit dissolve-y but I’ve never worked with lacquer paints so who knows.
what settings did you use on your cameo for cutting styrene, and what thickness did you use? Another great build!
Beautifull!
FYI, I highly recommend buying pre- wired LEDs with built in 9v-12v resistors. Use a 9v battery and run them all in parallel. I also prefer using a 9v AC adapter vs batteries.
I'll have to check that out. I had to do some trial and error to figure out what arrangement of resistors and LEDs would light up without burning out.
What kind of brush are you using for the Well Bond 3? Mine always gum up or melt. . .
Awesome dude
Ship looks great! I want to build a 1:12 spaceship, just trying to figure out the dimensions. Just want a single passenger ship, but even then, it's gonna be a pretty good size.
Definitely Space Battleship Yamato vibes, fantastic just a quick question where do you get the containers you keep your styrene in and where do you get those size styrene sheets and finally the name of your shop on Etsy. Ok, sorry, a couple of questions, thanks.
1) from Micheal’s crafts, they’re advertised as boxes for scrapbooking.
2) I buy it wholesale in 4’ by 8’ sheets and cut it to size
3) it’s linked in the video description
incredible looking ship! you really inspired me into making my own ship. Thank you for all these incrdeible videos keep it up!
P.S. do you have a social media where we cna share our builds with you? (discord, etc...)
Glad I could be an inspiration l! I’m most active on instagram, but I also have a tumblr and a twitter that I check semi-regularly. I’m Sublight Drive everywhere, so I’m easy to find.
@@Sublight_Drive Thank you man, i will see if i can find you. I do highly reccomend a discord (i 100% if you do not want to, i dont want to seem pushy)
Did you blunt the tips of the fiber optics with a hot blade before pulling them tight to the hull? Is that still a thing people do?
Ooooh I hadn't considered doing that, I'll have to try it next time.
Love the video! But i do think the music is a little too loud
Nice build! Where do you get your eletronic stuff?
I just buy it on amazon. For a while I tried to find local places I could buy it from, but it turns out Radio Shack is basically an extinct breed of store
@@Sublight_Drive Thank you for your help.
Where did you find the Weldon 3?
A lot of the guys use good old tap water to help smooth their putty
You can have too many. But you can have not enough room to store more!
Cool !!!
I know that there's very little chance of you seeing this but I would very much like to know your process for designing more intricate shapes, like a circular shape that tapers to one end
Neat!
Great work - I really like how it turned out.
Also - thanks for having included all the parts that a lot of other ppl omit from videos. Most ppl don’t seem to realize how much actually goes into making something like this, esp when it’s a kitbash. Great job!
Absurd question, what are the chances of including the cut files in your etsy models? And maybe a rundown on settings you use. Could use a bit of help with mine, ha.
It’s something I’m looking into. I want to make sure it’s something that works right out of the box (so to speak) so it’s taking some time to make sure it’s what I want it to be.
@@Sublight_Drive Totally get that. Putting more thought into it than a lot of garage kits I've bought, lmao. Thank you!
Just in case, if youre sanding epoxy/resins, you should also wear a mask the dust is not good for you.
Has anybody ever come across actual official instructions for how to use micro-set/micro-sol? I have seen a bunch of guides for the stuff and everybody seems to uses it completely differently.
I also haven't had much experience with Epoxy Putty, but I've heard Crafsman say it helps if you mix it, then let it sit a bit before sculpting with it. I'm thinking it's his video on designing a character.
This one maybe? ua-cam.com/video/ycr9bpO-czI/v-deo.html
Flux! Flux! You need flux!
the music tempo and choice and the yapping pace just makes this video unwatchable for me. I really love to chillout when making models and I can't imagine any other builder doing so in such a hyped up manner. does your video portray the reality of your process?
You wear a mask when brushing weld on? There's no need, acrylic cement is chemically inert (one of the reasons we use it attach plastic off cuts together) , any you breathe in you'll just cough out with your lung chunks later. I mean I could get behind the 'never too safe' philosophy if it weren't for the fact that stress kills you way quicker than you'd think... Technical stuff aside, that's the best one yet, it's got a whole bunch of charm to it, five points to grufflepuff or whatever
The music is almost lounger than you
You wear a mask when sanding polyvinyl? There's no need, PVA is chemically inert (one of the reasons we use it to move drinking water around) , any you breathe in you'll just cough out later. I mean I could get behind the 'never too safe' philosophy if it weren't for the fact that stress kills you way quicker than you'd think...
Ooh, tiny holes? Pin embedded in cork, open flame, heat needle, push needle through. Heat is the missing ingredient is what I be saying.
CA can't dissolve anything, this is the advantage of looking into the chemistry of stuff. What most likely happened to yon optical fibres is they snapped when they changed temperature overnight. I'd think you probably had them bent a bit much, the two cores don't enjoy curves as much as they look like they do.
Technical stuff aside, that's the best one yet, it's got a whole bunch of charm to it, five points to grufflepuff or whatever. 🙂
If all chemically inert substances were safe to breathe we would all still be using asbestos. Wear your masks kids.
The music is too loud, invasive, and very irritating. I don't know why so many content creators feel the need to inflict this tedious noise on their viewers. That said, this is a nice build.