DIY Scultamold Alternative | My Modelling Compound Recipe
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- Опубліковано 18 чер 2022
- How I make my Modelling Compound
BONUS VIDEOS coming this week showing some ways to use this stuff!
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Super useful stuff. You do a great job of demonstrating it. I would suggest putting all the wet pulp into a bandana or dish towel, gather up the edges, and squeeze the water out. Nice video
Genius! That sounds like a much quicker way to ring out the water!
It's a good point you make when making the plaster mixture, not to leave it white in case it chips later.
Cheers, it's definitely one of the most simple tweaks that will give the build longevity through lots of use
Loved the montage bits of you wandering about before blending / including mistakes / shows 'the journey'. Please include some 'off camera' stuff... possibly use fastforward x20 as B-roll (with informative voice-over). As others note: your pre- 'deep' base-coat idea is brilliant ('so the chipped terrain isn't pure white') - painted before you paint! Amazing stuff, Seb. Also: your workouts are paying off - killer shoulders. As per all your videos, it is amazing how you pack so much energy with such a calm voice - no one else on the internet seems to capture this. It is almost your trademark.
Thankyou 😁 so many kind words you're going to make me blush
I'm getting more confident to just let the camera roll now so there will probably be more and more of those goofs and cutaways. Glad to know they are liked in the videos
A much shorter method is to tear off about 10 sheets of toilet paper vertically in a nutri bullet and give it a short dry whizz. You can use the coffeegrinder if you use small wads of the paper. The K mart coffee grinder is also useful for making static grass from badly weathered mdf
Adding artists acrylics to the grinder, shaking as you do will colour the material and is useful for colouring diy flock made from cushion foam shredded with a wire wheel. Dont buy mayerials if you can make them.
Ohh I really like that diy static grass idea. I'm gonna have to try that one. Great advice, and I agree, make whatever you can rather than buying it.
MDF works well. After colouring it is helpful to put it through the coffee grinder to separate the fibres that may stick together while the paint is drying. The resultant material can be rubbed through a suitably sized sieve to grade the fibre lengths.
It is advisable to use a mask for protection from formaldehyde glue dust.
Those cheap coffee grinders from K mart are a very useful tool to own. Very glad i purchased one about 2 years ago. Only cost $14. Money well spent. I found the nutri bullet method for fluffing the toilet paper was far quicker and less labour intensive than the coffee grinder.
Might have to add a Nutribullet to the shopping list. Always looking for ways to speed up and/or improve the processes
Great video! I really appreciate you making this, as I've been wondering for a couple months now what your recipe was!
So, I made this recipe a couple weeks ago based off of your turtle shop video, but I used a slightly different process from you as I didn't have this video at the time.
First, I didn't even use a full roll of toilet paper, but I also didn't need near as much sculpting compound as you did here.
Secondly, I didn't bother adding water to the TP. I put it in my container then added my grout and plaster onto it with mod podge and glue. I was worried about adding too much water and making the mix too runny, and I was glad I didn't add any more water.
Third, my plaster and grout were pre-mixed, which feeds back into the second point of not needing extra water.
Fourth, as I didn't wet the toilet paper to start, I didn't need to dry or blend/dust it after.
I'm not sure if you'll find this information useful, at all, and if you like, I can email you pics of what all I used for my mix in case you want to look into a less time-intensive mix! I would say, it took me a little over an hour, maybe an hour and a half to make my mix, and it was ready to apply that night. It also held well, though I will say that portions that were laid down thickly did take some extra time to dry (I'm admittedly unsure if the interior is dried out yet, hahaha), but I'm sure that it set in such a way that I don't need to worry about it moving at all, and it supports the platform I made just fine! Like I said, if you want more details, I would be happy to share them in an email for ya!
Yer nice, there are alot of different recepies for this as it's basically just paper mache and plaster
Definitely don't need much water, i always overhydrate my mix and end up adding more modelling compound mix to dry it out.
As long as the shredded enough you could skip the early steps.
I personally like to make sure the paper is as shredded as possible which is why I do the soaking and grinding. I've found that larger peices of paper left in the final mix can cause issues with the structural integrity of the peice while it's wet.
I'm not sure what you mean by premixed grout and plaster, I've only ever seen plaster of Paris come in the pure white.
The only part that really takes time is the drying, but I've been given a few good ideas to speed tthat up with cheese cloth.
Could also skip the drying if you wanted to use it right away.
But the idea for me was to make a large amount that can sit and wait to be used on future builds. Just need a scoop from the container add water &/or glue and you're good to go
Would love to see what you're making with it and how your version came out!
Great video mate, that grout colouring idea sounds too good, definitely gotta grab some of that myself!
Definitely would recommend, it's a great basing material aswell!
Would printer paper also work? like I have loads of old yellowed printer paper. As long as I blend it and break it down well enough it should work the same right?
I imagine it would, it would just take a bit more to break it down and soak it through properly. Also you might end up with flat bits on your final build. I use TP because it tends to smush down easier to a rough surface. But seeing as it's basically just paper mache paste I imagine any kind of paper, cardboard or even wool would work.
@SebMakesStuff yes. But it's harder to work with, cardboard also works.
Great idea - was looking at spending 30 quid on a bag of scultamold but turns out i don't need to!
Cheers. haha yer getting the actual sculptamold in Australia is super expensive so this stuff has been a life saver
It seems like it would be better if you squeezed it into a separate bowl rather than just adding water back for you to squeeze out over and over.
haha yer i realised this at one point when I was editing.
When im doing bigger batches I usually do it outside and just squeeze them out into the garden.
Food processor is faster and better than a spice grider
Oh I'm sure it is, but I don't think my room mates would appreciate finding toilet paper in their food processor haha
you want a cheese cloth to squeeze out the water
Yesss!!! I can't believe I didn't thinkmof this. I actually have a heap of these from an old video where I made ink. Thank you 😁
A blender works green for tearing up the paper
Yer Greta idea, I might need to get one for the craft space. Not sure my house mates would appreciate the kitchen blender being used for crafts haha
@@SebMakesStuff oh sorry I didn’t know you had roommates, but I did see you were using an immersion blender. Same thing right? 😊
Haha yer have to be a little extra aware when using gebral house stuff haha. Don't think anyone wants toilet paper in their smoothy haha. But still a great addition to the crafting space 👌
Ah yes, a kitchen island with no power outlets… 😅
Yep, this house is great.... except for the lack of power outlets. I have so many extension cables and power strips!
@@SebMakesStuff Seems to be the problem around the world. Just like the coffee grinders - I have the exact same model in Poland that's understandable with everything being manufactured in China nowadays.
in spain please !!!!!😢
I wish I could do other languages, but I only speak the one. maybe i will get there one day and be able to get dubs done
I've made many dioramas over the last 40 years, but only once used plaster of Paris, and never again. Most dioramas are only intended for temporary displays rather than permanent fixtures, but even then, the use of poP is unnecessary and far too heavy. Newspaper or toilet paper pulp on its own is perfectly suitable for most projects, for it can be dried and reconstitutes just by adding water again, and known universally as papier mache! You can even buy it ready made from any good model/hobby shop. Modelling it is relatively simple, and even the rough texture can be smoothed over with any household emulsion paint mixed with household fillers. In many cases there are a variety of simple methods to smooth the surfaces, but it's all according to what you intend to achieve. Sorry, but this demonstration is much too labour intensive, and takes too much time. Why go to all the trouble with this method of using kitchen blenders and hand tearing, when you can poo sheets of paper into a simple office shredder in a tenth of the time?
My dioramas are usually custom made representations of actual terrain, with accurately scaled contours - maps in 3D if you like, so use the most appropriate materials and methods necessary to achieve the desired product. If I had to use the methods in this video, I'd never get my dioramas done in the time needed. In the time it took to make the pulp in this video, I could have had a one yard square map drawn with all the features located and countours laid out - all on a grid.
Many modellers today don't even bother with paper pulp, preferring to use styrofoam which is easily shaped and with no messing about with the water and drying.processes. No, I'm afraid the above method died out more than 20 years ago,
Basically you're saying you prefer paper mache: which is a perfectly good option. But I think they are both to be used in very different circumstances. This stuff is great because I can build a batch of this once and have tons of it stored and dry able to use at any point just by adding water and glue. It also has a significantly better texture for earth and rocks than paper mache and takes paint much better for the style I use. I'm sure there are quicker ways I could approach the process as this video was my first time ever making it. But the bulk build then leave me with a super quick process when I am actually building something. Fair enough if it's not going to work with your style of builds, but it is definitely a super handy product to have on hand for wargaming and ttrpg Terrain builds.
@@SebMakesStuff Thank you for your response. I didn't say I preferred papier mache; I said that if I was going to use the method in your video, papier mache as I would make it is quicker..
There are many methods of scultting terrain - too many to list; bust as I stated, it all depends on what you want as an end diorama. They all take time, and much depends on the kind of realism and accuracy you want. I'm not into wargaming, as most of what I do is reconstructions of real events for the purposes of military museums. At the end of the day, it's horses for courses, each to his/her own.
That's super interesting. I would love to do something for a museum. I'm fascinated by the different kinds of diorama work that is out there, especially as I just do this all as a hobby and usually work at the same scale. What are the hardest diorama and the coolest diorama you've had to put together?
@@SebMakesStuff Interesting questions Seb. My most recent diorama was for a privatte individual who wanted his father's WW1 event recorded as a diorama - basically an incident in a WW1 tank verus artillery battle. A simple enough scenario only made difficult by the distance involved and the scale required. The distance was two-plus miles by 1.5 miles...with nothing only open ground between! What he wanted would have taken up some eight feet long which he intended to house in his spare room. He had no idea of the scale and size he wanted, but in the end it was a matter of reducing the degree of empty space while still retaining some idea of distance, and to a size suitable for home display.
WW1 scenarios are relatively easy as there are Trench Maps which are well-detailed with good contours to follow, so laying the ground levels is quite simple. However, the only answer to the empty space was to reduce it within reason, and the scale was brought down to roughly a four x three feet diorama. It included the remnants of a village, three artillery guns, a railway embankment (sloped) and four tanks - one of which was stuck on the railway line.
I make everything from scratch, and highly detailed. The railway lines were metal, and the tank tracks were cast from pliable silicone. The grass was static grass so that it looked natural; the barbed wire was actual wire with very fine, silvered & rust-colouredf threadwire used for the barbs (very, very tiny). The tanks were made mostly from plastic sheet, with the sponsons/guns made from Milliput. The roads were both cobbled and dirt track (I used lentils for the cobbles)!! There were several 45mm figures (most of my figures are 54mm) made from Milliput, and a few trees and bushes made from a variety of materials. The whole diorama was made in a portable wooden case with a hinged top doubling as a backdrop when opened. When closed, it had a 6-inch tank badge on the lid, made from impressed/embossed Fimo & Milliput brass-painted. I'm not sure if I still have the photographs, but if I can find them you're welcome to see them - I'll let you know.
It was a difficult project due entirely to the scaling I set, but the customer was entirely happy with it and has displayed it at a variety of venues. He has also damaged it through carelessness which I have twice repaired before refusing further requests for repair. How my customers use or abuse the work is entirely their responsibilty. I always advise them that these models need to be treated with care. Museums are generally no bother as their displays are more-or-less permanent and rarely tampered-with and usually displayed under glass.
I've been a military historian for over 40 years, and I've been making models from childhood, so combining both interests has become fairly natural, andwhat was once a hobby eventually turned into a side income - although the income can't really cover the amount of time ot takes, but I never do it for the money, just as long as my cost are covered.
Wow dude, you so over complicate this.. So many more easier ways.. Kinda funny you act like this is way you usually make it, and everytime some odd happens your surprised. I knew that milkshake blender would not work before you even tried it.. Next time you want some paper to add, get the recycled paper that they use for insulation. Its like 10 bucks a bag, and wont take you a week to chop it, dry it, mix it let it dry again.. Your making more work for yourself than need be.
thanks for the super friendly approach to the advice.
Ill have to see if I can get some of that insulation paper(never seen it before) but for now this works just fine for me