You can speed up draining pulp a lot if you skip the strainer. Huck the pulp into a pillowcase or a doubled-off bedsheet and then wring it out into the bathtub, like you would with a cheese in cheesecloth.
I have been doing this for some decades now as here in Australia, Sculptamold was #1 hard to source, #2 very - very expensive, and #3 does not survive the humidity in the area I live (North Queensland). The only difference being that I use 24 rolls of dunny paper, still use the 60% paper/40% plaster but then I add a "secret" ingredient into my 9 litre bucket mix...a small bag of wallpaper glue. I mix all of this in a home made mini concrete mixer (it does 5 litres at a time) which I built for mixing feeds for my backyard farm animals. I am SO glad that somebody put this idea out on You Tube. Thank You. The other alternative I have used is the paper fluff used in home insulation. A MASSIVE bag of this is only about $28= and the amount it makes will cover me for the next three years at a time...So I tend to share it with my friends - a lot!
just made a batch of this stuff and it's absolutely fucking amazing, this is gonna help me make some good looking hills without shelling out heaps of cash. keep making cost-saving vids please, they're incredibly helpful.
You don't need to go through the whole drying and processing process. When ready to make the sculptamold, just add paper to water, mix until paper is broken down, add plaster, and you are good to go. The paper will break apart just fine in the water. You can even use regular paper. This eliminates all the paper dust.
@@bhisma.p.ernawan no. Just put some toilet paper into some water, slosh it around with a stick until it breaks into little pieces, add your plaster. I use Ultracal 30 from Amazon. www.amazon.com/dp/B06XWR2QD8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_fabc_66CEK6GMJW2STGB671KT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
So this is basically mixed toilet paper where you add plaster? Does the toilet paper make it dry faster/easier to sculpt/weight less? Or what is the real benefit to use this and not the plaster as it it?
You may want to try adding cornstarch to your stuff. It seems like this is just a dry form of paper clay which usually has cornstarch because it lowers drying time and creates a non-newtonian fluid which is more like clay as you work with it.
Hi Luke don't know if you've already tried it, but I'll throw it out there for comments.] I have to admit I'm not a model builder but I get a similar effect with porage oats. Buy a cheap kilo of oats at your local superstore. Mix it with warm water and microwave for three minutes. let it stand for two minutes and it starts to thicken. At this stage, it's just like clay and can be moulded into any desired shape. give it a few hours to harden then you can mould it to practically any shape. it can be sanded or filed and painted. It's hard cheap and doesn't smell and is virtually indestructible. If you drop it from a height and it breaks the parts can be stuck together with a new batch of porage (as glue). A Kilo costs £1 at ASDA, Tesco or any other local stores... Give it a try!
draining the paste is easier, use a second container, identical to the one you blended everything in, and press them together, all the water will overflow out the sides and compress your material to the bottom
Having experience making sculpture for mould making, you can use wallpaper paste (powder). Mix powder with water. One cup powder to approximately 3 gallons of water. Let it sit so powder absorbs water. Use this mixture as needed with either USG moulding plaster and/or hydrocal . It will extend working time . You can also use vermiculite instead of toilet paper, it will add a granite effect when doing rock terrain.
This is great. I’m a first time terrain builder. And iv already wasted a lot of money on material that I probably wasted or could have done cheaper like this. But I’m also lazy. So I found a quicker method. I like to use things I have at home already. And I found a bag of recycled paper cat litter (not used) Put it through a Bullet blender. Works perfectly Not sure if it’s cheaper. But I had it already. And saved me time.
A trick you might want to look at for building up *really tough* terrain is one used by some terrarium makers. It will let you build up 3D shapes as well, with overhangs and such. Cut up the foam to build your layers up an inch or so at a time, so you can make your ground, towers, arches, etc. Then use grouting and similar stuff from bathrooms to create a thick hard seal over the foam. Should give you cliff faces and such that can take a lot of abuse and models on them :)
With regard to superglue, remember that when CSI and NCIS use superglue to raise fingerprints on TV they always use a fume chamber or fume hood. It is nasty stuff. As another poster on here has stated, the 'cyano' part in the glue's name - cyanoacrylate - indicates the presence of cyanide. If using Superglue in quantity, do it outside or in a well ventilated space like a garage or a shed with the doors wide open on a windy day. With regard to the thickness of the material, my best guess is that the commercial material may contain clay dust or rock powder dust as a thickener. If you know anywhere that slices stone with a power tool ask them about buying marble or limestone dust. Anywhere that makes gravestones may be able to help. The alternative might be to thicken it with something coarser like Tetrion filler or clay powder. I also notice that one of the 'Tetrion similar' materials advertises that it has added PVA in it. I always add PVA when using decorator's filler, on a DIY job, as it seems to aid adhesion. It also seems to dry harder. Barry
Once you have dryed the paper throw it in a blender and grind it down to a fine powder then mix it with the plaster it will give you a near identical clay texture ✌😄
Man, did you just save me an assload of money and time! I owe you a beer! I did your mix, but used the 20-minute fast dry drywall mud. Worked out beautifully! Thanks!
You've been using what crafter's have been using for centuries. It's called fibre reinforced plaster. Glad to see it made. Keep up the good work! (Please note, not sarcsam, but genuine praise)! 😃
Cheers! Tried this today and it’s fantastic. Would recomend mixing/blandning the toiletpaper efter it is strained and before the drying. This makes a cocked-rice-like substans, no clumps and a more consistant product. Also very fast drying time. Bone dry in under 30min 👍🏻
I've used newspaper in a similar method to this and I either did not put enough powder or the paper just made it too grainy. I also skipped the baking and drying because I wanted to use it right away, I just mixed it with some kind of gipsum powder or sth (can't remember) and added some water. it was also like a cottage cheese consistency. I think your trick of letting it dry for a couple minutes and then smoothing it out was quite an interesting idea that I ought to try. Toilet paper is probably better than newspaper because the fibers are finer and it'd be white unlike newspaper which creates a grey color. Also the ink of the newspaper slightly stained my hand mixer... forever... because I cannot put it into the dishwasher. It's a very light stain, but still visible. I could not wash it off.
Thanks for these great DYI tutorials mate! I can't tell you how much I appreciate what you're doing. You've literally saved me hundreds of dollars by making my own hobby supplies. It should be no reason that hobby supplies need be so expensive. I can understand it's not a cheap hobby and a high end product being expensive. I can't see why they gouge us on the simple things. We can make most of what we need in our own home for 1/10th of what they charge. This, like I said, is not always the case. I know folks have to eat to, but I'm just getting into airbrushing and all the store bought ready made costs an arm an a leg!!! For a screaming example of how wrong this is take for example Airbrush Cleaner by Createx. A bottle of 240mL(8 fl. oz.) is ~$10- $15 bucks. Now when you make it at home you can make gallons for that price. Same goes for Flow Aide, Airbrush Cleaner, etc. I don't get why Airbrush supplies are so darned expensive? I mean do they want us to just stop buying theirs and make our own??? Great video and keep more like these coming! I love when you makes vids like this!
Loved the video and I am currently drying some paper fiber medium to make my own try at it. I had the idea today while doing the laundry that perhaps dryer lint could also work as the fiber medium in place of the toilet paper fiber. First it would require any drying (other than the drying that took place when drying your clothes). Secondly, you don't have your wife yelling at you because you destroyed the toilet paper and she is trapped in the can with a wicked case of mud-butt. Going to also give this a try and wanted to pass it along.
You could get your paper pulp super dry by using a food dehydrator overnight. Gets it super dry with no risk of burning. I got mine very cheap second hand, and they're great for actually food too (fruit rollups and apple crisps!) Fully dry pulp would avoid any clumping and premature reaction in the container. Hope this Corona thing blows over soon so I can get my hands on some toilet paper...
Not sure which glue you're using, but superglue can offgas cyanide, so if you're doing volumes enough to burn you get some ventilation in there ASAP. You don't wanna end up with long term neurological effects that pop up in 5 or 10 years. Have you tried different types of paper to make your fiber paste? It would be interesting to see if printer paper or news print gives your sculpting paste a different working consistency just from the way the fibers interact. New viewer :) Subbed immediately. Yay for the algorithm.
I've used newspaper in a similar method to this and I either did not put enough powder or the paper just made it too grainy. I think toilet paper is probably better because the fibers are finer and it'd be white unlike newspaper which has a slight grey color. Also the ink of the newspaper slightly stained my hand mixer... forever... because I cannot put it into the dishwasher. It's a very light stain, but still visible. I could not wash it off.
Great tutorial as always, really appreciate your work. As someone who struggles with allergies I can only imagine how frustrating it must be to be reactive to a material that is so vital to your profession. Cheers to dealing with and getting on.
From papier mache recipes I've tried, I'd suggest the missing ingredient is PVA glue. Large 5ltr bottles bought wholesale being the best value. Its gives more plasticity to the mixture, depending on the ratio, which can be trial'n'errored until you find a suitable consistency. I just went and priced scupltamold...then quickly found your video - CHEERS!
@@GeekGamingScenicsI was only cross referencing p-mache The plasticiser effect of PVA wouldn't slow the drying time, but as you're proposing a cheaper altenative to 'Sculptamold' maybe it would push the material costs up a bit - but it goes a long way. Among the many clays, p-mache and sculpting media recipes out there, I've always been looking for quick setting/sculptable reasonably priced alternatives to commercial products [of exorbitant cost]. Online is a good way of sourcing these materials, but I found [birmingham ] a local wholesaler who, obviously, deals in bulk. 25lb bags, 5ltr bottles - but it does bring costs down in the long run.
Your method is similar to mine. I test off 10 sheets of Quilton toilet paper and put them into a nutri bullet blender give it about 4 seconds of whizzing, take it out and store it in zip lock bags. This eliminates the time consuming messy water part of the job. I take a preserved fruit bottle, add about an inch of plaster and fill the bottle loosely with the fluffy paper. Cap and shake the bottle vigorously. Pour the required amount into your mixing bowl and add water to achieve the consistency you require. You can prepare as much or as little as you need without a large amount of effort. My results have been excellent.
Gotta get a proper ventilation system for those nasty fumes. A DIY one for my room was cheap compared to not having to smell and deal with that. Hope you heal up well
Another good vid. You could consider buying a conical sieve, it's shape allows more moist to escape with less effort ;-) Kitchen staff has been using that thing for donkeys because of that.
Very cool! Toilet paper varies so much in type it might be interesting to experiment with different types and mixtures. Maybe make one for bulk infill of areas, and another for top coats.
the extra ingredient to make it more like clay i use is Diatomaceous earth white, ad to the mix after the 50/50 mix you use it extends drying time a little but it gives it a more clay like feel and movement during the sculpting process. Here in the US I get a 50lb bag (food grade) for like 20 dollars. (the white) the grey color is cheaper but tints it brown.
Realy nice videos you are producing. 1 minor suggestion: at the end of the videos show some close ups of finished stuff you made during the video. Would have loved to see the washes you made in another video on a finished mini and would have loved to see how those terrain pieces looked when painted :)
I use isolation cellulose powder, basicly it's pulverised paper, around 12 euros /10,5£ and mixed it with filler. I have not thé référence point you told us about, but it seems to works fine, just have yo find the best ratio :)
Not sure why you bother drying the paper.....when I make this stuff, I just make it on the fly by soaking the toilet paper in water and blending it in a blender I got from a thrift store...and then using the wet pulpy water as the water for the plaster on demand when I need it..... this process for drying it out just adds a lot of time and work if you don't need it ready made. And when you make it on the fly it's easy to adjust how runny it is. I use Hydrostone...which is a bit tougher than plaster because it has cement mixed in. Do need to wear gloves when you are using hydrostone though as it dries out your hands something fierce. (you can find it at pottery crafting supply stores). You can also mix in cement dye to color it.
Omg dude you just changed my life. I can't get sculpt a mold to NZ without laying outrageous amounts of shipping (one cost over $100NZD to get it here) but I can definitely get toilet paper and plaster!
Where are you looking Chris? And what are you molding? Mighty Ape do a 1lb of molding (pourable) rubber for about $50. Personally I use a silicone caulk (from Bunnings) and cornflour mix. Basic molds work out relatively cheaply.
Woodland Scenics do some - but its expensive, you want to build the hills out of plaster cloth, cast plaster rocks (also woodland scenics) etc and as Luke says use the sculptamold for the fine detailing, blending. Im in NZ also and used to be a train modeler so did big areas.
So I’ve had a go with this. It’s taken quite a long time to dry in the oven! Not to mention I’ve had to sift out quite a bit a large amount of TP pebbles. It must be my hand blender isn’t up to the chop (but I did manage to mangle my fingers on the blade!). I’ve seen someone use a wire wheel and a hand drill (using gloves). I’ll try this out next Tim myself.
How about adding quick drying powdered cement? I think this might be good for terrain tables that get a lot of rough playing. It might hold up a long time to damage? Have you thought about this?
Question have you tried dripping a little paint on to the scult so you could build up cliff faces with different colours bleeding through? If so how does it effect the drying times?
living in Israel, its really hard to get hold of scultamould. i am in the process of making my own as per your instruction or close to it. mulched paper is air drying as its nice and warm here and i dont have a proper oven in my apartment. i will be using wall plaster powder in it. i will be doing experiments on it to find the best consistency for me. once again thanks for your tips and tricks, they have become very useful.
Take your Blender of choice and feed it dry toilet paper bit by bit. It will absolutely shred it in no time. then mix the TP fibres with plaster and youre done.
Appreciate this is an old video, but at the 4:17 mark you mention that you can get casting plaster in bulk a lot cheaper at builders merchants, what exactly do you get? Any DIY store doesn't seem to sell anything as casting plaster, so I assume it's some kind of gypsum? Any chance you can narrow down what exactly we should look for? Cheers!
So I've been wondering for some time, there's a paper pulp based bedding sold for pet rodents that looks alot like the toilet paper does after all the work is done to it....maybe save some time and effort using that stuff?
do you think Detail plaster like Merlins Magic or Excaliber would work or something like Plaster of Paris? I got a tube of Plaster in Paris in the garage that I got From the hardware store or would you recommend something else from the hardware stores?
Aye Luke, Just a thought, but the local home improvement has cellulose insulation bale (19 pounds) for round $8.00 Still needs the blender treatment, but does wonders for the "paper clay / monster clay folks. What about using the drywall adhesive rather than the cast plaster?
I hear ya. I picked up a bale back in 2012, and barely put a dent in it. The grey color may put a few folk off, but after primer, it's all the same anyway. Getting this to that clay consistency? Any attempts with oils, or Glycerin?
I gave this a shot over the weekend. I found it still felt damp after 48 hours and I eventually stripped it off (which I could do with my fingers and a plastic spoon, to give you an idea of the state it was in). I used plaster of Paris, but I assumed that was close enough to casting powder, no?
So in the process of getting materials to try this out, I ended up with a small bag of stone powder as well as casting powder. Do you think I'd be able to splice some of the stone powder in as well and come out with a good end result, or should I just shelve my stone powder until I (or someone else) comes up with a good use for it?
Go to your closest garden store and get a bag of Gypsum and add about 1 part Gypsum and 2 part plaster. You will ge a more clay like consistency from the DIY Sculpta Mold
I'm going to use this great method...but would you think using "normal" plaster would work.. (ok it takes longer to fully harden which could be useful I guess) but has a courser texture which would work better for some scenery projects... and it is much cheaper than casting plaster
Notice he is using it up as he makes it. If it is damp it will grow mold. The recipe I use includes oil of wintergreen to retard mold growth. I have stored it in the refrigerator for up to two weeks, then I get mold. You can store the dry plaster and paper before you mix them for a very long time .
Already subscribed but I liked due the "toy box incident !!!!!!" brilliant You tube as it should be ... Warts and all ..(and its very useful as well if you're doing stuff on the cheap and can be bothered with the faff)
Re: the face issue, here's a tip, do it outside. If you can't, find a window, open it up, put a table under it, get a box fan and put it behind you. Hopefully the fumes will blow away from you out the window. It's a hobby, nobody should get hurt.
Well, there is another way to save time and money by stretching sculpting material... You can form a general shape out of plastic waste then sculpt over that. Glue chunks of product packaging that are otherwise hard to recycle like empty glue tubes and bottles, translucent colored plastic, and empty paint bottles in an array that gives you a skeleton to sculpt over. Squish plastic bags into crevices that might otherwise suck up the Sculptamold. I do like the irony of turning that stuff into a different sort of landfill. The drawback of this method is that the finished pieces will not be solid and just won't have the same heft, so they can be knocked around the table more easily during play. I guess you could base them on MDF and that might help. Speaking of which, if you break MDF scraps with your (preferably gloved) hands and then file off any potential splinters, it makes a fairly convincing broken shale rock if primed black and painted accordingly.
The S'mold will dry bright white. You paint it, it chips, it stands out like a sore thumb. The fix; get dry paint pigments, tile grout coloring, or clothing dye powder that's a close match to your finished color and mix it in with your batch. I have only ever used dry pigments. Unsure what a wet coloring like paint and such would do to the S'mold.
You can speed up draining pulp a lot if you skip the strainer. Huck the pulp into a pillowcase or a doubled-off bedsheet and then wring it out into the bathtub, like you would with a cheese in cheesecloth.
Protip right here! ^^
Thanks for the cheese/cheesecloth explanation. Defiantly helps us understand-considering we are all amateur cheese makers.
You can also put it into a zipper pillow case and toss it in the dryer on medium. :D
Not sure why you even need to dry something you are just going to add water to. Add TP to a container, add water, slosh til broken down, add plaster.
@@BreydonsRC I think it's due to the water activating the plaster, and because it's to make and use later.
where I live 3 pound of Sculptmold costs 54 Euros.
while the cost for the materials in your video is only 2 Euros
thanks a lot :D
Probably the other way round today....
I have been doing this for some decades now as here in Australia, Sculptamold was #1 hard to source, #2 very - very expensive, and #3 does not survive the humidity in the area I live (North Queensland).
The only difference being that I use 24 rolls of dunny paper, still use the 60% paper/40% plaster but then I add a "secret" ingredient into my 9 litre bucket mix...a small bag of wallpaper glue.
I mix all of this in a home made mini concrete mixer (it does 5 litres at a time) which I built for mixing feeds for my backyard farm animals.
I am SO glad that somebody put this idea out on You Tube. Thank You.
The other alternative I have used is the paper fluff used in home insulation.
A MASSIVE bag of this is only about $28= and the amount it makes will cover me for the next three years at a time...So I tend to share it with my friends - a lot!
just made a batch of this stuff and it's absolutely fucking amazing, this is gonna help me make some good looking hills without shelling out heaps of cash. keep making cost-saving vids please, they're incredibly helpful.
Watching this in March of 2020...
"Dude! You just put, like, three hundred dollars worth of toilet paper in there!!"
LOL I was gonna do this until......Great laugh M8
I was thinking the same thing. LOL!!!!!!
so this why people were hording it.
IN the USA the panicked, idiotic hoarders have bought up all of the TP. Soon the rest of us will be wiping with Sculptamold...
Meanwhile people won't stop sending me paper ads so i'm using that
You don't need to go through the whole drying and processing process. When ready to make the sculptamold, just add paper to water, mix until paper is broken down, add plaster, and you are good to go. The paper will break apart just fine in the water. You can even use regular paper. This eliminates all the paper dust.
Sooo i don't need to put it into the oven(?)
@@bhisma.p.ernawan no. Just put some toilet paper into some water, slosh it around with a stick until it breaks into little pieces, add your plaster. I use Ultracal 30 from Amazon. www.amazon.com/dp/B06XWR2QD8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_fabc_66CEK6GMJW2STGB671KT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
@@BreydonsRC great! Thanks, it helps me a lot!
So this is basically mixed toilet paper where you add plaster? Does the toilet paper make it dry faster/easier to sculpt/weight less? Or what is the real benefit to use this and not the plaster as it it?
@@Pemil99 - The toilet paper is used so you use a lot less plaster, which can get expensive if used by itself.
You may want to try adding cornstarch to your stuff. It seems like this is just a dry form of paper clay which usually has cornstarch because it lowers drying time and creates a non-newtonian fluid which is more like clay as you work with it.
What is the ratio for plaster, paper and cornstarch?
Hi Luke
don't know if you've already tried it, but I'll throw it out there for comments.]
I have to admit I'm not a model builder but I get a similar effect with porage oats. Buy a cheap kilo of oats at your local superstore. Mix it with warm water and microwave for three minutes. let it stand for two minutes and it starts to thicken. At this stage, it's just like clay and can be moulded into any desired shape. give it a few hours to harden then you can mould it to practically any shape. it can be sanded or filed and painted. It's hard cheap and doesn't smell and is virtually indestructible. If you drop it from a height and it breaks the parts can be stuck together with a new batch of porage (as glue).
A Kilo costs £1 at ASDA, Tesco or any other local stores... Give it a try!
My god son.. As of right this moment Toilet paper is a precious as gold.
Making your own sculpmold right now is a hardcore way to FLEX
draining the paste is easier, use a second container, identical to the one you blended everything in, and press them together, all the water will overflow out the sides and compress your material to the bottom
Having experience making sculpture for mould making, you can use wallpaper paste (powder). Mix powder with water. One cup powder to approximately 3 gallons of water. Let it sit so powder absorbs water. Use this mixture as needed with either USG moulding plaster and/or hydrocal . It will extend working time . You can also use vermiculite instead of toilet paper, it will add a granite effect when doing rock terrain.
This is great.
I’m a first time terrain builder. And iv already wasted a lot of money on material that I probably wasted or could have done cheaper like this.
But I’m also lazy. So I found a quicker method.
I like to use things I have at home already. And I found a bag of recycled paper cat litter (not used)
Put it through a Bullet blender.
Works perfectly
Not sure if it’s cheaper. But I had it already. And saved me time.
A trick you might want to look at for building up *really tough* terrain is one used by some terrarium makers. It will let you build up 3D shapes as well, with overhangs and such.
Cut up the foam to build your layers up an inch or so at a time, so you can make your ground, towers, arches, etc. Then use grouting and similar stuff from bathrooms to create a thick hard seal over the foam. Should give you cliff faces and such that can take a lot of abuse and models on them :)
With regard to superglue, remember that when CSI and NCIS use superglue to raise fingerprints on TV they always use a fume chamber or fume hood. It is nasty stuff. As another poster on here has stated, the 'cyano' part in the glue's name - cyanoacrylate - indicates the presence of cyanide. If using Superglue in quantity, do it outside or in a well ventilated space like a garage or a shed with the doors wide open on a windy day.
With regard to the thickness of the material, my best guess is that the commercial material may contain clay dust or rock powder dust as a thickener. If you know anywhere that slices stone with a power tool ask them about buying marble or limestone dust. Anywhere that makes gravestones may be able to help. The alternative might be to thicken it with something coarser like Tetrion filler or clay powder. I also notice that one of the 'Tetrion similar' materials advertises that it has added PVA in it. I always add PVA when using decorator's filler, on a DIY job, as it seems to aid adhesion. It also seems to dry harder.
Barry
Once you have dryed the paper throw it in a blender and grind it down to a fine powder then mix it with the plaster it will give you a near identical clay texture ✌😄
So basically the finer the paper, the more similar it is to clay?
Man, did you just save me an assload of money and time! I owe you a beer! I did your mix, but used the 20-minute fast dry drywall mud. Worked out beautifully! Thanks!
Interesting .
Back in 2002 there was a guy (on the contruction site)who sculpted motorcycles miniatures with drywall mud and typing paper, all he had in prison.
Is this the same as spackling?
Brilliant, great solution and alternative to expensive Sculptamold
You've been using what crafter's have been using for centuries. It's called fibre reinforced plaster. Glad to see it made. Keep up the good work! (Please note, not sarcsam, but genuine praise)! 😃
Good advice about comparing an off-the-shelf product with home-made. It would make it easier to test the quality.
Cheers! Tried this today and it’s fantastic.
Would recomend mixing/blandning the toiletpaper efter it is strained and before the drying. This makes a cocked-rice-like substans, no clumps and a more consistant product. Also very fast drying time. Bone dry in under 30min 👍🏻
I've used newspaper in a similar method to this and I either did not put enough powder or the paper just made it too grainy. I also skipped the baking and drying because I wanted to use it right away, I just mixed it with some kind of gipsum powder or sth (can't remember) and added some water. it was also like a cottage cheese consistency. I think your trick of letting it dry for a couple minutes and then smoothing it out was quite an interesting idea that I ought to try.
Toilet paper is probably better than newspaper because the fibers are finer and it'd be white unlike newspaper which creates a grey color.
Also the ink of the newspaper slightly stained my hand mixer... forever... because I cannot put it into the dishwasher. It's a very light stain, but still visible. I could not wash it off.
A rough-threaded pillow case is a great sieve for large amounts like this :)
Thanks for these great DYI tutorials mate! I can't tell you how much I appreciate what you're doing. You've literally saved me hundreds of dollars by making my own hobby supplies. It should be no reason that hobby supplies need be so expensive. I can understand it's not a cheap hobby and a high end product being expensive. I can't see why they gouge us on the simple things. We can make most of what we need in our own home for 1/10th of what they charge. This, like I said, is not always the case. I know folks have to eat to, but I'm just getting into airbrushing and all the store bought ready made costs an arm an a leg!!!
For a screaming example of how wrong this is take for example Airbrush Cleaner by Createx. A bottle of 240mL(8 fl. oz.) is ~$10- $15 bucks. Now when you make it at home you can make gallons for that price. Same goes for Flow Aide, Airbrush Cleaner, etc. I don't get why Airbrush supplies are so darned expensive? I mean do they want us to just stop buying theirs and make our own???
Great video and keep more like these coming! I love when you makes vids like this!
Loved the video and I am currently drying some paper fiber medium to make my own try at it. I had the idea today while doing the laundry that perhaps dryer lint could also work as the fiber medium in place of the toilet paper fiber. First it would require any drying (other than the drying that took place when drying your clothes). Secondly, you don't have your wife yelling at you because you destroyed the toilet paper and she is trapped in the can with a wicked case of mud-butt.
Going to also give this a try and wanted to pass it along.
Quick follow up. The dryer lint worked great BUT, it was quickly apparent that my dryer lint has a significant amount of pubic hair in it.
You should know that all terrain looks perfectly fine with an extensive variation of undergrowth.
You could get your paper pulp super dry by using a food dehydrator overnight. Gets it super dry with no risk of burning. I got mine very cheap second hand, and they're great for actually food too (fruit rollups and apple crisps!) Fully dry pulp would avoid any clumping and premature reaction in the container.
Hope this Corona thing blows over soon so I can get my hands on some toilet paper...
Not sure which glue you're using, but superglue can offgas cyanide, so if you're doing volumes enough to burn you get some ventilation in there ASAP. You don't wanna end up with long term neurological effects that pop up in 5 or 10 years.
Have you tried different types of paper to make your fiber paste? It would be interesting to see if printer paper or news print gives your sculpting paste a different working consistency just from the way the fibers interact.
New viewer :) Subbed immediately. Yay for the algorithm.
Could be an allergic reaction, maybe check out medical grade CA.
Bit concerning to see the kiddy gate in the same video where the dad has used his kitchen as a lab and ended up with a burnt face. Yikes
Also, would be nice to know if the burns came from the vid where he recommended covering the full table in super glue.. come on.
I've used newspaper in a similar method to this and I either did not put enough powder or the paper just made it too grainy. I think toilet paper is probably better because the fibers are finer and it'd be white unlike newspaper which has a slight grey color.
Also the ink of the newspaper slightly stained my hand mixer... forever... because I cannot put it into the dishwasher. It's a very light stain, but still visible. I could not wash it off.
@@vivianeb90 did your newspaper and plaster mix get hard?
Great tutorial as always, really appreciate your work. As someone who struggles with allergies I can only imagine how frustrating it must be to be reactive to a material that is so vital to your profession. Cheers to dealing with and getting on.
Nice to see that I'm not alone in being totally ignored by my kids as they place themselves in precarious positions.
I've got a little girl who climbs on everything as soon as you turn your back just like that, had to smile!
From papier mache recipes I've tried, I'd suggest the missing ingredient is PVA glue. Large 5ltr bottles bought wholesale being the best value. Its gives more plasticity to the mixture, depending on the ratio, which can be trial'n'errored until you find a suitable consistency. I just went and priced scupltamold...then quickly found your video - CHEERS!
@@GeekGamingScenicsI was only cross referencing p-mache The plasticiser effect of PVA wouldn't slow the drying time, but as you're proposing a cheaper altenative to 'Sculptamold' maybe it would push the material costs up a bit - but it goes a long way.
Among the many clays, p-mache and sculpting media recipes out there, I've always been looking for quick setting/sculptable reasonably priced alternatives to commercial products [of exorbitant cost]. Online is a good way of sourcing these materials, but I found [birmingham ] a local wholesaler who, obviously, deals in bulk. 25lb bags, 5ltr bottles - but it does bring costs down in the long run.
Your method is similar to mine. I test off 10 sheets of Quilton toilet paper and put them into a nutri bullet blender give it about 4 seconds of whizzing, take it out and store it in zip
lock bags. This eliminates the time consuming messy water part of the job. I take a preserved fruit bottle, add about an inch of plaster and fill the bottle loosely with the fluffy paper. Cap and shake the bottle vigorously. Pour the required amount into your mixing bowl and add water to achieve the consistency you require. You can prepare as much or as little as you need without a large amount of effort. My results have been excellent.
Gotta get a proper ventilation system for those nasty fumes. A DIY one for my room was cheap compared to not having to smell and deal with that. Hope you heal up well
Another good vid.
You could consider buying a conical sieve, it's shape allows more moist to escape with less effort ;-)
Kitchen staff has been using that thing for donkeys because of that.
I use blended egg boxes. They are free and I feel work better.
I was just kicking around this idea. The tp and plaster. You have lust saved me at least 2 weeks of exparaments
Hello My friend Thank U for this! IT WORKS PERFECTLY! I just used 2 paper rolls and I got a good amount of sculptamold 🤗 greetings from Panama
every time I WATCH YOU ...THE Burnt man Face .. lol ... i always stay away from the fumes ....man i feel you.....BRO...TAKE CARE YOU ARE A GREAT GUY
Very cool! Toilet paper varies so much in type it might be interesting to experiment with different types and mixtures. Maybe make one for bulk infill of areas, and another for top coats.
Quilted with flowers is the best.
The beginnings of a wonderful dwarven beard...
ordered 8lb for $15 on ebay. Thanks man! can't wait to try this!
I work in a pulp mill. I wonder what difference it would make if you used hardwood fibers instead of softwoods that are used for TP
Great tutorial. My boy love mulching the toilet paper.Also, i used a proper blender to chop the paper after it dried.
A colander may be a better option than a sieve Luke. Thanks for all of your great work and effort..............Chris
Your face is always my main concern when I watch your videos! :D
In 2020 this recipe is a major flex!
the extra ingredient to make it more like clay i use is Diatomaceous earth white, ad to the mix after the 50/50 mix you use it extends drying time a little but it gives it a more clay like feel and movement during the sculpting process. Here in the US I get a 50lb bag (food grade) for like 20 dollars. (the white) the grey color is cheaper but tints it brown.
How much do you add to the mix?
Wow. Burnt face man reference. Takes me back. Thanks for the awesome info
Hi Luke Great vid as ever, try a couple of tablespoons of veg. glyserine in the mix, gives it that 'clay' feel.
Realy nice videos you are producing. 1 minor suggestion: at the end of the videos show some close ups of finished stuff you made during the video. Would have loved to see the washes you made in another video on a finished mini and would have loved to see how those terrain pieces looked when painted :)
Yes, warm hot water does make it break down I used to work in a Toilet Paper Mill,. Press it before you put it in the oven
I use isolation cellulose powder, basicly it's pulverised paper, around 12 euros /10,5£ and mixed it with filler. I have not thé référence point you told us about, but it seems to works fine, just have yo find the best ratio :)
Not sure why you bother drying the paper.....when I make this stuff, I just make it on the fly by soaking the toilet paper in water and blending it in a blender I got from a thrift store...and then using the wet pulpy water as the water for the plaster on demand when I need it..... this process for drying it out just adds a lot of time and work if you don't need it ready made. And when you make it on the fly it's easy to adjust how runny it is. I use Hydrostone...which is a bit tougher than plaster because it has cement mixed in. Do need to wear gloves when you are using hydrostone though as it dries out your hands something fierce. (you can find it at pottery crafting supply stores). You can also mix in cement dye to color it.
Omg dude you just changed my life. I can't get sculpt a mold to NZ without laying outrageous amounts of shipping (one cost over $100NZD to get it here) but I can definitely get toilet paper and plaster!
Where are you looking Chris? And what are you molding?
Mighty Ape do a 1lb of molding (pourable) rubber for about $50. Personally I use a silicone caulk (from Bunnings) and cornflour mix. Basic molds work out relatively cheaply.
I've been looking on Amazon and ebay and they either don't ship to NZ or cost over $30NZD to ship. Much cheaper for me to do it this way though.
Also am looking to model a whole bunch of hills and cliffs etc for my table top so I don't think that amount will suffice
Woodland Scenics do some - but its expensive, you want to build the hills out of plaster cloth, cast plaster rocks (also woodland scenics) etc and as Luke says use the sculptamold for the fine detailing, blending. Im in NZ also and used to be a train modeler so did big areas.
Wonder if you could use cellulose insulation in place of the homemade pulp?
So I’ve had a go with this. It’s taken quite a long time to dry in the oven! Not to mention I’ve had to sift out quite a bit a large amount of TP pebbles. It must be my hand blender isn’t up to the chop (but I did manage to mangle my fingers on the blade!). I’ve seen someone use a wire wheel and a hand drill (using gloves). I’ll try this out next Tim myself.
How about adding quick drying powdered cement? I think this might be good for terrain tables that get a lot of rough playing. It might hold up a long time to damage? Have you thought about this?
Really interesting - enjoying your terrain videos - they are a great resource :-)
Question have you tried dripping a little paint on to the scult so you could build up cliff faces with different colours bleeding through? If so how does it effect the drying times?
Burnt face man! Now there's a blast from the past!
living in Israel, its really hard to get hold of scultamould. i am in the process of making my own as per your instruction or close to it. mulched paper is air drying as its nice and warm here and i dont have a proper oven in my apartment. i will be using wall plaster powder in it. i will be doing experiments on it to find the best consistency for me. once again thanks for your tips and tricks, they have become very useful.
i dont mind, i do 1:35 dioramas, i need slow drying time to work with it. i'm a patient guy. lol
thanx, its a great idea, cant get sculptamold here in Israel so was looking for a substitute, but still need to get clay powder
Use a powder filler in the mix. Should make it feel more clay like!
wait what kind of poweder? is it like powderized joint compound??
Take your Blender of choice and feed it dry toilet paper bit by bit. It will absolutely shred it in no time. then mix the TP fibres with plaster and youre done.
Appreciate this is an old video, but at the 4:17 mark you mention that you can get casting plaster in bulk a lot cheaper at builders merchants, what exactly do you get? Any DIY store doesn't seem to sell anything as casting plaster, so I assume it's some kind of gypsum? Any chance you can narrow down what exactly we should look for? Cheers!
So I've been wondering for some time, there's a paper pulp based bedding sold for pet rodents that looks alot like the toilet paper does after all the work is done to it....maybe save some time and effort using that stuff?
do you think Detail plaster like Merlins Magic or Excaliber would work or something like Plaster of Paris? I got a tube of Plaster in Paris in the garage that I got From the hardware store or would you recommend something else from the hardware stores?
use worm bedding all the work is done for you comes in a big bag cheap
what kind of worm bedding are you referring to?
Silly question: could you use the sculptamold in a mold, like the Blue Stuff from GreenStuffWorld to cast Miniatures or other bits?
BURNT FACE MAN - Holy Nostalgia! - "Take that crime, you shit!" - Great vid as always Luke.
Very similar to paper clay, lots of videos on how to make it on here as well
I don't know how active this tread is but .... could I use plaster of paris in this process , it's what they sell in my small town .
Great video, Luke. Can you sand this stuff when it's dry?
Is the fine casting plaster to used to make this the same as the casting plaster you would put in molds to make rock faces and stuff?
yes
Hi mate, is the temperature you quoted Celsius or Fahrenheit?
Aye Luke, Just a thought, but the local home improvement has cellulose insulation bale (19 pounds) for round $8.00 Still needs the blender treatment, but does wonders for the "paper clay / monster clay folks. What about using the drywall adhesive rather than the cast plaster?
I hear ya. I picked up a bale back in 2012, and barely put a dent in it. The grey color may put a few folk off, but after primer, it's all the same anyway.
Getting this to that clay consistency? Any attempts with oils, or Glycerin?
Great video. Thanks for sharing!
Hi Luke. Any basement recipes for crackle paint for dry mud in a river bed?
Crackle medium....then paint
The casting plaster, is that just "plaster of Paris"?
Hi Luke, can the foam pop off the sculpti you made? If not can plastic wrap be used over the foam to create a “cave-like” structure?
Really awesome tutorial, my man!
~ Wolfbrother Methos
I gave this a shot over the weekend. I found it still felt damp after 48 hours and I eventually stripped it off (which I could do with my fingers and a plastic spoon, to give you an idea of the state it was in). I used plaster of Paris, but I assumed that was close enough to casting powder, no?
Paper was dry, I made the paste as you showed. It just never seemed to go off properly; still damp. Perhaps I just need to put more plaster in.
So in the process of getting materials to try this out, I ended up with a small bag of stone powder as well as casting powder. Do you think I'd be able to splice some of the stone powder in as well and come out with a good end result, or should I just shelve my stone powder until I (or someone else) comes up with a good use for it?
Useful video as always, thanks!
Can someone explain the difference between sculpt mould and modeling compound please?
Cheers
@@GeekGamingScenics Awesome thanks for the reply, trying out your compound tonight for some kill team terrain!
Luke doing science.... again 👍🏻
Go to your closest garden store and get a bag of Gypsum and add about 1 part Gypsum and 2 part plaster. You will ge a more clay like consistency from the DIY Sculpta Mold
I'm going to use this great method...but would you think using "normal" plaster would work.. (ok it takes longer to fully harden which could be useful I guess) but has a courser texture which would work better for some scenery projects... and it is much cheaper than casting plaster
Try adding a bit of corn starch to your own mix.
Burnt-Face Man reference...whatever happened to David Firth?
Good video man :)
Take that crime!
This is really good Luke lad, some thing that any person can do no matter their ability haha
Lukes Aps yeah man it looks sore
I doubt anyone will see thinks but could you use plaster of Paris as the fine casting powder
Many thx for this great idea! Can I ask how much time can I store the product into a sealed box?
Notice he is using it up as he makes it. If it is damp it will grow mold. The recipe I use includes oil of wintergreen to retard mold growth. I have stored it in the refrigerator for up to two weeks, then I get mold. You can store the dry plaster and paper before you mix them for a very long time .
Already subscribed but I liked due the "toy box incident !!!!!!" brilliant You tube as it should be ... Warts and all ..(and its very useful as well if you're doing stuff on the cheap and can be bothered with the faff)
Re: the face issue, here's a tip, do it outside. If you can't, find a window, open it up, put a table under it, get a box fan and put it behind you. Hopefully the fumes will blow away from you out the window. It's a hobby, nobody should get hurt.
Splurg factory! Good tips.
Would I benefit from using plaster of paris as the casting powder?
Well, there is another way to save time and money by stretching sculpting material... You can form a general shape out of plastic waste then sculpt over that. Glue chunks of product packaging that are otherwise hard to recycle like empty glue tubes and bottles, translucent colored plastic, and empty paint bottles in an array that gives you a skeleton to sculpt over. Squish plastic bags into crevices that might otherwise suck up the Sculptamold. I do like the irony of turning that stuff into a different sort of landfill.
The drawback of this method is that the finished pieces will not be solid and just won't have the same heft, so they can be knocked around the table more easily during play. I guess you could base them on MDF and that might help.
Speaking of which, if you break MDF scraps with your (preferably gloved) hands and then file off any potential splinters, it makes a fairly convincing broken shale rock if primed black and painted accordingly.
Can you add acrylic paint to your sculptamold mix, when preparing
The S'mold will dry bright white. You paint it, it chips, it stands out like a sore thumb. The fix; get dry paint pigments, tile grout coloring, or clothing dye powder that's a close match to your finished color and mix it in with your batch. I have only ever used dry pigments. Unsure what a wet coloring like paint and such would do to the S'mold.
Just saw this video... was in shock at seeing toilet paper being destroyed! Still can't find it in stores here in central Florida!!!
Instead of a casting plaster would a hydrocal or dental stone work?
thank, you for you're video. 🇺🇸 🏴
Hi Luke love the vid as always 🙂 try adding some linseed oil to your mix buddy 👍